Do-it-yourself joinery. Do-it-yourself vayma. Do-it-yourself press for gluing wooden panels Vayma carpentry

Natural wood And How construction material, and as a material for the manufacture of furniture does not lose its relevance. Unfortunately, there are not many places on the planet where trees grow, from the trunks of which you can make solid door leaves, tabletops or even wide window boards. Such an uncomplicated device as a clutch allows you to make glued - blanks for home and garden furniture with your own hands.

Manufacturing technology of glued wood panels

Even if the material (the thickness of the log) allows the manufacture of wide products, their further use raises a number of questions. Whole things solid wood well, very moody in operation. Those who have worked enough with wood know very well what a "propeller board" is.

In order for a wooden product from an array not to deform, the material must be thoroughly dried beforehand and, preferably, kept for at least a month in the room where it will be located. This condition is practically impracticable when we are dealing with door leaf or window sill- humidity, temperature changes will inevitably lead to deformation of the product.

Elements from a glued array are devoid of these drawbacks. Bars are taken from one or different, they are recruited into a single block and glued. In order for the wooden blanks to become a single whole, a special device is used - a clamp. With your own hands, you can easily assemble a fully functional device.

Simple clamp, assembled "on the knee"

Sometimes there are situations when a certain type of work needs to be done once. Suppose it is decided to arrange a table from a glued spruce massif in a gazebo in the country. Does it make sense to buy expensive factory-made clamps? In such cases, a simple, in a sense disposable, do-it-yourself bond is made. The device drawings are shown below.

In order to glue an array of blanks once, you will need long self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, a hacksaw and a joiner's hatchet.

The workpieces are placed on a row of transverse beams (beams every 40 ... 45 cm). On both sides of the workpiece, parallel to it, long longitudinal beams (equal in height to the workpiece) are laid and attached to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. From above, again, the upper transverse bars are attached with self-tapping screws. That's all the do-it-yourself vayma.

To compress the workpiece, it remains, as shown in the diagram, to wedge it with specially planed wooden wedges. After the product is ready, the clamp can be disassembled and the material used at your discretion.

Clamp from steel profile

But sometimes craftsmen collect wimes no worse than factory ones. Here's one of the options:

The clamping screw is first unscrewed to the stop. The slats are glued and placed on the clamp, starting from the clamping unit. After the blank of the array is collected, it is covered with an upper profile pipe, and the counter node is bolted into one of the pairs of holes (depending on the width of the future array).

By rotating the clamping bolt, the workpiece is compressed from the sides. The design of the clamp is made in such a way that the upper and lower pipes, when tightening the screw, are also strongly pressed against each other, which makes the future workpiece perfectly flat. Such a do-it-yourself wedge allows you to make any products - from cutting boards to the door leaves.

In this article you will find detailed instructions for making vimes do it yourself.

If you are engaged in the manufacture of furniture from, then you cannot do without carpentry clamps... You don't have to buy it for this. A glue clamp can be made do it yourself.

What is vayma and why is it needed?

Vayma is a structure for assembling and gluing wooden products... The joinery clamp consists of a metal frame with movable and fixed stops. In other words, the vayma is the same clamp, only larger and more powerful.

What is the vayma made of?

Of course, you can try to make carpentry clamps from wood, but this will be completely wrong and achieve maximum results when gluing, for example, you will fail. Therefore, the press clamp is made from, namely from metal corner and channel.

What you need to make your own clamps:

corner 75 mm 2.5 m - 2 pcs
corner 75 mm, 1 m - 1 piece
channel 70 mm 1 m - 4 pieces
threaded metal rod - 4 pcs
nuts М36 - 12 pcs.

Clamp making process

So let's start making do-it-yourself clamps.

First, we will assemble the bolted structure to make it easier to cook. We attach the channel to the corners of 2.5 m at the same distance.

We set the short corner along the edge of the first channel perpendicularly between the long corners. It should be welded strictly at 90 degrees, since when gluing doors it is very important point(so that the diagonal matches).

After that, we scald all joints and joints. IMPORTANT: no need to weld the inner joint of the short corner with the channel! Otherwise weld will interfere in the future when gluing wood products.

Now we start placing the cranks. There will be 4 of them and they will be made of a threaded metal rod. To do this, make 4 holes in the upper corner opposite each channel. After that, we weld on 2 nuts on each side of the corner.

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At the top of each knob, we weld one more nut so that it is convenient to twist them.

Then we weld the supports in the lower part so that the structure stands on its own.

Here is such do-it-yourself carpentry turned out in end result... Of course it needs to be cleaned and painted, but I think the essence of making press for gluing doors and wooden boards disclosed.

Below is attached a video showing detailed process making this vayma.

Hello everyone. A lot of interesting things on the Internet. While doing something, as they say now, surfing on the web, I found an interesting mechanism - vayma. The owners praised him very much and complained about making or buying.
It so happened that our site is more female. But I somehow grew on it, maybe because of this very property :). But what I want to tell women is unlikely to be interested. And men (here, pause) well, I think maybe someone will come in handy.
So to the point. The glue is needed for gluing wooden panels. Having looked different variants I liked two. I decided to put them together. If anyone is interested, I will give links to primary sources. I'm not going to assign copyright, but our site decided to cover this topic.
How much is needed for one shield? I have a single gluing experience - the entrance country door. It had to be clamped in three places with wedges. The wedge provides compression only from the sides. Vayma is still above and below. Maybe somewhere there is information, what should be the step between the winders. I just decided that I needed to clamp from the edges and in the middle first.
The objectives of this event were as follows:
1. How realistic is it to make vayma yourself.
2. Test in the case, is it really so good.
For this type of vim you need:
a) pipe rectangular section 25 * 50 mm wall thickness 2 mm.
b) pipe for counter tension-free stop 25 * 25 mm
d) metal sheet 2 mm thick
e) 5 bolts d8 mm, 2 bolts d10 mm
f) reinforced nut (or three welded together) d16 mm
g) hairpin d16 mm (I think 14 will do the same).
h) the tube fits freely on the hairpin
How much can you say in numbers? Everything is conditional here. It all depends on the tasks, that is, why you want to glue the boards, large or small. I took the maximum under my trunk - so that at least in disassembled form this miracle intermeddle. But if you are not going to glue the doors, then the screws can be made smaller. In general, I cut pipes of 1300 mm. With such a spacing, for three pieces you need to buy 2 pipes of 6 meters each. At current prices, this is somewhere between 1.5-2 thousand, taking into account cutting. The one-meter hairpin was enough for me. Nut bolts in Leroy costs probably about 1000 rubles. As for the rest of the materials, I took them from waste at work. If you wish, you can think of it and replace it with what you have at home or in the garage. Here the skill of the welder and the flight of imagination probably play a role.
I was greatly simplified by the fact that I used waste at work and used work machines. Do not be intimidated by the machines are not a sentence . People do everything with a grinder and welding and get a working tool... I have a negative point, I do not know how to cook yet. I had to ask at work to make welded joints.
I bought the materials, but postponed the case for a long time, it was not clear how it worked. And there are no drawings as such. In general, with a wave of his hand, he decided to do it by eye according to the primary sources.
The decisive moment with the pipes, holes in them must be made on drilling machine(so they write everywhere) since the holes should not be skewed and in the paired pipes the axes of the holes should coincide along the entire length. I think anyone who does not have a machine at work or at home can buy it for a drill. In addition, the holes should be placed not in the center of the pipe, but closer to the edge - this is a reference to the strength material, we increase the working section of the beam.
Next, what's next? The rest is relatively simple.
I had it like that. I started with pipes. I stepped back from the edge of 15 mm and drew a line through 150 mm markings along the pipe. I marked the pipes in pairs to match the holes.

Here in the picture is a little different from what I ended up with, I flew *. Below I want to do a debriefing. In the meantime, the markup should be something like this.

I have a tube 60 mm long and a plate 60 * 25 * 2 mm.

It was decided to make the handle for twisting with long handles. The handle itself was supposed to be made of plywood. And the grip with plywood through a cross cut or sawn out of metal 2 mm welded to the end of the stud.

Yes, I just cut my one-meter hairpin into three equal pieces, beforehand.

The most incomprehensible for me was the mechanism at the opposite end of the hairpin from the cross with a ball from the bearing.

The front tip differs from the rear one in that it is rotatable. When the stud rotates, it must remain stationary and not run away from the stud. The first noticeable difference instead of square pipe round. We will weld a nail into the slot to hold the tip on the hairpin.

I have such a ball

Make a groove on the stud for the locking nail. The authors of my primary sources, which I was guided by, made the grooves with a grinder. They grinded me on the machine.

The figure shows the main mechanism of the entire system. Two d10 bolts are welded to the power nut, a stud is screwed into it. On the left edge is the profile of the cross. On the right is a swivel tip. It works like this. The nail holds the tip, the tube allows it not to lute and rotate on the hairpin, the ball takes on the load from the clamped shield and the hairpin and prevents it from wedging.
Next, you need to saw or chop 8 pieces of plates. for one wage. Dimensions 25 * 120 * 2 mm. I did not calculate the minimum working dimensions of the plates, perhaps the plates can be made shorter. Make two holes in the plates.
Before fixing the swivel tip on the hairpin, by welding to a round tube in a nail slot, you need to put on part of the future handle.

The hole in the handle is made with a weld groove.

We will have a handle of two halves. I'm still looking for how to adapt and where my dremmel is, so they chose a groove for the cross.

I lubricate epoxy resin the top of the handle. I connect the handles and, instead of a press, screw the handles onto the self-tapping screws, which I also sink and fill with epoxy.

Here finished mechanism... It remains to paint. With the painting of pipes, I again "faked" - I painted with powder at work. My opinion is to paint iron. I did everything slowly, I sawed the pipes to size, for 2 weeks they lay, and began to rust. I did not choose the color in Che painted on that thanks. Only the mechanism was painted from a spray can myself. After all, there is plywood, it cannot be heated. The color took, as I think, more or less suitable for the main gray.

Conclusions:
Generally satisfied. The results will be clear after the tests.
Errors identified, do not repeat:
1. The handle is very thick. I glued two pieces of 10 mm thick and got 2 cm thick, a bit thick.
2. Holes could be drilled much less, the handle will not allow the mechanism to be displaced along the holes, therefore, returning to the footnote - * it was more correct to do this:

The distance between the holes is 200 mm, or even more. And place the first opposite hole at a distance of the minimum width of the shield that you want to glue.
3. What is inconvenient:

As you can see from the photo, the nut with welded-on bolts is wider than the supporting pipe, which makes it necessary to put washers or wider nuts to align the planes. My nuts gave a thickness more than required - again a little skew. It is not comfortable.
There is no limit to perfection and I think a lot can be improved. These are my first steps to where to start. In the process of creation, we already came across vaims in the internet to order in them, the counter mechanism was different. The advantage of the store is simplicity, the disadvantage is that no vertical force is created at the opposite end. After revising the store version (there was just a bar - a dead stop), I got the idea to use a hairpin instead of a bar, but difficulties arise. See the picture below. In general, if you are interested, write;)

The industry currently offers clamps or clamps various designs... But they are too large and high cost... Therefore, for a home carpentry workshop, you can make a clamp with your own hands.

With the help of homemade clamps, you can perform gluing of furniture board and other carpentry work.

Making a clamp with your own hands

The basis of the construction of a homemade clutch is a strong load-bearing beam. It is made from a rectangular or square shaped pipe. Also, the beam can be made from metal profile: corner or brand.

The load-bearing beam must be of high strength and withstand bending loads. This is necessary so that during operation the clutch structure does not bend or deform.

To compress the furniture board, you need to make a lot of effort. Therefore, if the supporting beams do not have sufficient strength, they will be bent along with the workpiece.

If the furniture board, which will be made on the clamp, must have large dimensions, then, accordingly, the material for the base must be selected the most durable. In the construction of the clamp, all stops and screws are located above the supporting beam. Therefore, the higher the stops and screws are, the stronger the bending loads acting on the entire structure will be. For this, the clamp must have a very solid base.

When the clamp is working, a lot of pressure will be exerted on all stops. Therefore, the stops must be designed for heavy loads. Otherwise, they may bend.

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Materials and tools

shaped pipe of rectangular section;
screws;
nuts;
stops;
wooden spacers;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
building level;
squares.

The fastening of the stops to the beam must be strong and be able to move quickly in the longitudinal direction.

The furniture boards to be clamped in the device can be of different widths. In the process of work, it is not always possible to attach workpieces with screws different sizes... Therefore, it is necessary to create the ability to move the clamps.

All screws must be of the required strength. Nuts must be of reinforced construction. They can be purchased at building stores... You can order the production of these parts in a lathe. It is also necessary to order a turner to manufacture stops for screws of the required dimensions.

If you buy ready-made screws, you will have to make a groove to install and secure the clamps.

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Stages of work

They start making a clamp with their own hands. Need to cook shaped tube rectangular section with dimensions 60x30x3 mm. The pipe length should be 120 cm.

Such dimensions for the bearing beam were chosen due to the fact that often it is necessary to glue sheets large sizes or make wooden doors... Therefore, the clamp must be of such dimensions that it is possible to fix workpieces of such large dimensions in it.

Too large workpieces are rarely performed. In most cases, small size furniture boards and intermediate staircases will be produced. It is necessary to provide in advance measures so that during the manufacture of the shield, the glue does not fall on the surface of the device.

In cases where the length of the clamp does not allow for a large workpiece, you need to glue such a shield in parts. First, workpieces of such a width are glued together, which can be clamped in a clamp. Then, a wide blank is assembled from narrow shields. For this, movable clamps are used.

Then you need to make screws and nuts. The screw is made from a hexagon 300 mm long with a section of 28 mm. He must have metric thread 2 cm. The nut is made in the form of a 32 mm hexagon, 60 mm long.

Gaskets 1 cm thick are placed under the nuts. Then they are welded. After that, a clamp is made from a 5 cm metal rod.

It is undesirable to make a clamp having a smaller diameter. Otherwise, it will push through wooden spacers, which are placed between the workpiece and the clamp. If you do not use spacers, you can deform the workpiece.

You need to drill a 1 cm hole in the end of the screw on the clamp side. 2 ball bearings are installed in this hole in order to reduce friction.

Then the nuts are welded. Make sure that the screw is parallel to the profile. Otherwise, the workpiece will be pushed through.

It is necessary to completely tighten the screw and nut. Then a clamp is put on the groove. After that, gaskets are placed under it.

With the help of a level, they make sure that the parts are located strictly parallel. The parts are fixed and then welded.

Welding is performed with small seams in order to prevent deformation of the material when the metal is heated during welding.

Then clamps are made from a corner with dimensions of 60x60 mm. The corner is welded to the profile. The profile is welded from two corners. They are adjusted so that there is a possibility of free movement and at the same time that there are no large gaps.

Fasten the clamps. For this, holes are drilled with a diameter of 12 mm. They put pins in them. Thanks to this, you can quickly change the position of furniture parts during production.

If during work during compression it turns the workpiece out, then the reason for this may be the non-perpendicular position of the stop in relation to the supporting beam. Therefore, you need to check correct location parts using squares and a building level.

Then a hole is drilled, a thread is made and a screw is screwed on. The correct position of the workpiece can be adjusted with a screw.

When drilling holes, take into account that the screw with a movable stop moves 200 mm. When fixing the fixed stop, the distance between the holes must be 150 mm. Otherwise, such areas may appear in which the workpiece will not fit.

First, a through hole is made on the clamp. After that, put it in its place, press it with a clamp. Then the profile of the bearing beam is drilled through this hole. This allows precise joining of parts.

You can make a clamp in which you can press the shield to the bearing profile. This design is more reliable, but more difficult to manufacture.

This is the work on the manufacture homemade clamp end.

The design of the clamp allows you to perform high-quality gluing work furniture boards different sizes and thickness.