How to make a sandpaper cutter. homemade paper cutter homemade paper cutter

Greetings, brain artisans! I offer you a guide to creating do it yourself a useful little thing that will help you cut sheets of sandpaper clearly and evenly.

Owners of grinders are faced with the problem of cutting sheets for them: scissors become dull, a regular knife does not give an even cut, etc. Of course, you can buy ready-made sets of sheets for grinders, but this is more expensive than cutting them yourself from large sheets of sandpaper. So let's start solving this problem!

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Plywood (or MDF, chipboard) 2 cm thick
hacksaw blade 25cm long
screws with a large cap (press washer)
laser cutter(optional)
saw
grinder
drill
screwdriver

Step 2: Layout

We measure the dimensions of the sheets for the grinder and the dimensions of a large sheet of sandpaper, based on them we create a layout homemade Let's take a look at the photo.

If you have a laser cutter, transfer the layout to the computer and create a file with data for this cutter. Maybe my files will be useful to you.

Step 3: Draw lines

Install plywood sheet into the laser cutter and burn guide lines. And in the absence of such brain machine, just draw a plywood sheet according to the given dimensions with a pencil or pen.

Step 4: Sawing

Any accessible way we cut out homemade from a sheet of plywood, and then we process the sawn off edges, and the entire contour with a grinder. And further, thin drill drill holes for screws.

Step 5: Attaching the canvas

Fasten the canvas with two screws handicraft while leaving room for the sanding sheet to pass underneath.

Step 6: Testing

Brainwork ready, let's start testing, and then to full use.

We simply place a sheet of sandpaper under the canvas according to the desired size and pull it up with a little effort, which results in a smooth and accurate cut with ideal sheet sizes.

Good luck with your creativity!

The presented guillotine, made by hand, works on the principle of lever scissors, designed for cutting sheet metal with a thickness of not more than 3 mm.

It is made from improvised means, in particular from an old file and scraps of metal structures.

The manufacture of a guillotine consists of several stages. First, it is necessary to carry out drawing work in order to exact definition product dimensions. Applied scale is 1:1.

It is also recommended to draw a kinematic diagram with which it will be possible to determine the dynamic parameters of moving parts without taking into account the acting forces.

Drawings of parts printed on paper are printed on a printer and then cut out. The model of the machine is assembled from the cut out parts. This is done in order to verify the correctness of the calculations made and the exact correspondence of the dimensions to each individual component in the context of the functioning of the entire mechanism as a whole.

It is very important to determine the cut level indicator. It will be located at the intersection of the movable blade with the base, which is conventionally indicated by a line drawn in pencil.

The next step is the selection of pieces of scrap metal that are suitable in size, followed by the template application of the contours of future components on them. It is at this moment that paper clippings from under the animation turn into an important stencil.

In this case, the trimmings of a corner and a piece of iron sheet lying around acted as a blank. And as a result of intensive work by a grinder or a gas cutter, the main parts of metal scissors were obtained. These are two ears, a handle, a body holder and the body itself.

A base of two scalded corners is attached to the body of the guillotine. Their thickness is 50 mm. Pay attention to the accounted space for calls in the mode: “sheet up”, “sheet down”. There is also free space for a file. In this case, it is necessary to proceed from the parameters of its thickness plus the required clearance.

Then, with the help of mounting bolts, the process of sequential assembly takes place. The handle is attached to the main structure of the scissors by means of two ears. After that, one end of the body holder is screwed to it. The second is joined to the handle.

As a result, it should turn out, here is such an instance. Provided that no errors were made in the previous stages, the moment of complete cutting should occur when the handle reaches a horizontal position. The minimum movement of the arm against the background of the maximum travel along the radius must also be achieved.

The blank for two blades was an ordinary old, and therefore ground off, file. To begin with, it should be cut into two parts. Three holes are drilled in each of them for fastening. After that, the blade profile is formed and the edges are sharpened directly.

The images show the attachment points of two cutting knives. The movement of the upper knife must not be obstructed by other parts of the machine. It is important to bring the profile in such a way that, over the entire width of the cut, the interaction of the knives occurs at an angle of 6-8 degrees.

Ready-to-use homemade lever shears with clamps or specially for this drilled holes securely attached to working surface workbench.

Subject to the basic technological rules during the manufacture of the machine, it will definitely show very high efficiency. And it will easily cut both paper leaves and 3 mm iron.

Video: do-it-yourself manual guillotine for cutting metal.

This craft can be useful for anyone who works with paper or cardboard. It doesn't require a lot of money. But with careful work, it will provide a “clean” cut of any paper format.

Before we start discussing the topic, I note that today we will talk exclusively about a straight cut of one sheet of paper. And now to business.

Each of us at least once in our lives faced with the need to cut paper (cardboard). What tools do we use for this? Of course, scissors. If you need a more or less even cut, then a knife and a ruler are used. For absolute purity of work, it is better to use a branded cutter. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

We cut with scissors

This simplest way cutting paper. It is convenient for small volumes of work and relatively small cut lines. It is extremely difficult to make high-quality and longer cuts with them.

Conclusion: despite the cheapness of the tool and its ease of use, scissors can only be used to obtain small cut lines.

With a knife and a ruler

Definitely, this paper cutting method is more suitable for cuts. great length than scissors. You just need to have certain skills and dexterity.

To do this, you can use any well-sharpened knife that will not jam and tear the paper. But it is better, of course, to use a clerical knife, or a knife for construction works with retractable blades. It must be free of play so that the tool cannot move away from the guide ruler.

As for the line. Choose, no doubt, you need steel. When working with wooden or plastic rulers, there is a risk that the knife will “burrow” into them, and this will not have a very good effect on the final quality of the cut.

So, we can again talk about the low cost and ease of use of the tools. However, when working with them, it is difficult to fix a long ruler, and at the same time, the risk of being injured increases.

factory cutter

Its use in all cases is more convenient and efficient. Moreover, the stores present a huge number of the most different types and types of such cutters: roller, reciprocating, guillotine, etc., designed for cutting paper from A4 to A1, as well as excellent in price and quality.

And, as a rule, people who are seriously addicted or professionally involved in working with paper and cardboard try to acquire just such devices. However, there is a big minus here - the price of the tool. If small cutters, designed for small paper size and weight, can be afforded by many hand-makers, then more serious cutting tools large sizes paper, for example, 70x100 cm, is no longer available to everyone. Moreover, it is possible to recoup such an acquisition only by cutting paper, as they say, on a “production” scale.

homemade cutter

Design

I myself am engaged in the production of photo albums. Most often I use bookbinding and designer cardboard, designer paper and tracing paper with dimensions of 70x100 cm.

When choosing the design of a homemade cutter, first I decided on the requirements that, in my opinion, it had to meet. This:

cutting paper of various density with a size of 70x100 cm;
simple design and inexpensive components;
acceptable cut quality.

I found quite a lot on the Internet interesting option cutter from two metal rulers. The author of the idea is Evgeny Kuznetsov. However, testing of this cutter has shown that it is not quite suitable for cutting thick paper or tracing paper. I had to keep looking. The adaptation of another author, unfortunately, I do not remember his name, prompted me to make a more complex design.

The foundation

Found old board for drawing, which was ventilated on fresh air last few years. I put it in order, sawing off the frayed edges and made it the basis for the future cutter.

Knife guide

A steel 100-centimeter ruler, however, shortened by 20 cm, fell just right for the guide ruler for the knife. To give it rigidity, a duralumin rule for construction work was also bought. It also had to be shortened to the size I needed.

Now it was necessary to securely fix the ruler on the duralumin rule. Here the duralumin rivets once presented to me by a colleague, produced back in the Soviet Union, came in handy.

For better fixation of the ruler of the bolts, I made guides. At the same time, holes for them were drilled a little smaller in diameter than the bolts themselves. This helped to screw them more tightly into the board. Additionally, I fixed the bolts with nuts with special bushings that prevent spontaneous unscrewing.

From above, I pulled the ruler with wing nuts, which are well twisted by hand. I put springs on the bolts under the ruler. If you unscrew the lambs, the ruler on the springs will rise, and your hands will be free to work with paper.

I note that with the selected length of the cut line, even a 2 cm thick rule can bend after clamping the wing screws, and so that the sheet of paper does not slip, it is better to hold the ruler in its central part with your hand.

By the way, to make it more convenient to position the sheet of paper perpendicular to the ruler, I additionally fixed an aluminum corner. An aluminum square with stops for a sheet of paper was also placed on its part, fixed from the side of the working part of the ruler. If you fix this stop with a clamp on the corner, then positioning a sheet of paper before fixing the ruler can be much faster.

Substrate

As a substrate for cutting paper, I chose glass from furniture wall. Although it is better, of course, to order glass the right sizes with finished edges in the workshop.

On the cutter board, on the side of the working part of the ruler, I glued fiberboard sheets to equalize the height difference with the glass substrate.

In the case when I need to cut a thick binding board, I use sheets of corrugated board as a substrate. The length of the guide bolts allows this to be done.

The only drawback of this cutter, which I cannot but mention, is a slight backlash of the rule on the guide bolts. It must be taken into account when tightening the wing screws to fix the sheet of paper. Backlash appeared due to a discrepancy between the diameter of the bolts and the diameter of the mounting holes for the bolts in the rule. But this is rather a design flaw, and not the technology of its manufacture.

That's it. It can be used as a stand-alone cutter or in combination with a factory-made small format cutter. But this is in case you need a more precise fit to the dimensions of the sheets.

Yuri Lymar, Novomoskovsk, Ukraine.Author's photo

Which tells about the manufacture of a homemade paper cutter - a device for cutting paper, which can be of great help to PNP lovers. Such cutters are sold in stationery stores, but if you wish, you can make it yourself.

After printing photos, pictures, or Print and Play games, you need to cut sheets of paper into pieces, preferably quickly and evenly. To someone cuts with scissors, someone buys branded cutters for a tidy sum, and someone simply cuts on glass with a clerical knife and a metal ruler.Each method has its pros and cons.

Since I didn’t want to spend a tidy sum of money, I just got tired of cutting it with scissors. So I decided to make a budget option cutter. After digging around on the Internet and thinking, I made a device that helps me when cutting paper.

As can be seen from the photographs, the iron rulers serve as guides for the knife, and so that the sheet does not slip when cutting, we press it with a wooden ruler to the iron one. The wooden ruler can be replaced with a transparent plastic ruler, it will be much more convenient.

For manufacturing we need:

two pieces of fiberboard with dimensions of 80x530 mm;

two metal rulers with a dimension of 50 mm;

five wooden rulers with a dimension of 50 mm;

eight screws M3x16;

sixteen nuts M3;

two screws M5x20;

two wing nuts M5;

drill with a diameter of 5.5 mm;

drill with a diameter of 3.5 mm.

self-adhesive paper;

drill or any alternative to it;

stationery knife.

The cost of all of the above will cost you about 200 rubles, excluding the cost of a drill and fiberboard. I already had pieces of fiberboard and a drill, and self-adhesive paper was purchased earlier for 50 liters / 155 rubles.

Where to buy what?

I bought the rulers in stationery, it is advisable to call the shops in advance, since the rulers I needed were sold in the sixth store that I called. There I also bought a stationery knife for cutting paper. I bought screws, nuts and drills from a hardware store. Self-adhesive paper is bought in the same place as paper for a printer or in stationery.

Manufacturing

The manufacture itself is not difficult, but requires accuracy and sequence of actions.

The first thing to do is to drill holes in the metal rulers. Before drilling, we roughly mark out where we will drill, and get down to business. Four holes with a diameter of 3.5 mm must be drilled in each metal ruler. And in one metal ruler, it is still necessary to drill two holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm. After that, you need to check how the screws fit into the holes, expand them if necessary.

Next, using the metal rulers as a conductor, we drill holes in the wooden rulers so that the wooden ruler does not protrude beyond one edge of the metal ruler by a couple of millimeters. This is necessary so that the wooden ruler does not interfere with cutting, and the knife slides the current between the metal rulers.

The next step is to cut out two plates from fiberboard with dimensions of 80x530 mm, and drill holes in one of them, using metal rulers as a conductor. Before drilling, it is necessary to set the gap between the rulers to the size of the knife blade, with a margin to ensure the free movement of the knife. I have a gap of about 1 mm. In the second plate, I made holes in place to allow access to the screws with a screwdriver, after assembly. One fiberboard plate serves as the body of the cutter on which all parts are attached. The second plate serves to protect the table from being scratched by the screw heads. To give aesthetic appearance I glued the plates with self-adhesive paper.

We make a clamping ruler. Fifth wooden ruler must be cut with a knife to a size of 475 mm. Next, we drill two holes in it with a diameter of 5.5 mm, through a metal ruler. The clamping bar is ready.

All parts are ready to start assembly. Using strips of self-adhesive paper, we glue and glue the fiberboard plates together and install the screws in the holes.

Now we install a wooden "ruler - clamp", and screw the nuts onto the screws, set the gap between the iron rulers to about 1 mm. We tighten the nuts and screw the lock nuts onto the screws, which will not allow the entire device to unscrew. Tighten the nuts as needed during operation.

paper cutter- a device for fast and even cutting of paper. It is very useful in the design of scrap pages and postcards. The cutter allows you to cut a sheet of paper so evenly that no scissors can cut it.

According to the method of impact on the knife, cutters are divided into mechanical (manual) and electric. In turn, manual cutters are roller, reciprocating and guillotine types.

Roller cutter(it is also a disk cutter or trimmer) is a rectangular base (desktop), along which the cutting mechanism moves along the guide. It, in turn, consists of a sharpened metal disk enclosed in a protective casing. When cut, the paper is caught between the roller cutter blade and the counter knife (laminated solid metal, fixed on the end of the platform on the side where the cutter moves). Such a cutter is ideal for working with a small amount of paper - up to 10 sheets, it happens different sizes, the most common - 22.5 x 12.5 cm; 31 x 31 cm; 20 x 46 cm. It takes up little space and has the valuable quality of being able to cut an edge less than a millimeter wide, which allows you to work with maximum precision. In roller cutters, the knives are not subject to secondary sharpening, although they are called self-sharpening. Just through certain time they need to be changed.

reciprocating cutter called because of the knife, which looks like a saber. The reciprocating cutter is the most powerful and is used to work with a large amount of paper, but their accuracy remains within 0.1 mm. For reciprocating cutters, the principle of operation is somewhat different. A sharply sharpened cutter knife is fixed on one edge (it is closed with a protective cover to avoid injury), on the other it has a handle. Lowering it, cut the paper. A knife in a reciprocating cutter can be sharpened, although this procedure is not as simple as it seems at first glance. In addition, using a reciprocating cutter is much more difficult than using a roller cutter. To get the perfect result, you have to try.

Guillotine cutter used for processing large print runs and is perfect for large print shops. Such a cutter is manual, semi-automatic and automatic. Its working mechanism (a sharply sharpened heavy cutter knife) is located on massive table and is driven by a lever or electric drive. The blade moves not only from top to bottom, but also obliquely along the cut line and is able to “process” impressive stacks of sheets up to 8 cm. At the same time, the accuracy reaches fractions of a millimeter. When the cutter blade becomes dull, it is removed and sharpened, and after several sharpenings it is changed.

dummy knife used for cutting paper, sharpening pencils, and also necessary for cutting small parts and complex shapes. It is a thin replaceable blade similar to a pen with a protective cap. When working with such a knife, you must have a mock-up mat (cardboard, hardboard or plywood) so as not to damage the table you are working on.

Roller dummy knife allows you to quickly and without special efforts cut paper, as well as make a variety of curly cuts with special nozzles.

circular knife used for cutting circles with a diameter of 10 mm to 150 mm. Ideal for making postcards and round pieces for scrapbooking. The knife is an axis with a needle and a movable leg on which a blade is installed, by means of which a circle is cut out. Also on the movable leg there is a scale designed to select the diameter of the cut circle. It is necessary to work with a circular knife on a breadboard mat. Make sure all screws on the compass are tight before cutting.

Easily cuts out any figure on a special stencil, it is not replaceable when creating decorative elements for pages and postcards. Some models of shaped cutters can be used without a stencil. When working with such a cutter, it is necessary to have a mock-up mat so as not to damage the table on which you are working and be sure to check the condition of the blade, if necessary, adjust it according to the density of the selected material.

Hope the review is helpful. We wish you all good mood!