How to assemble iron scaffolding. Instructions for the manufacture of scaffolding from pipes and boards with your own hands. Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step by step instructions

Traditional for mounting scaffolding use metal or wood. Wood structures are suitable only for one-time work. They have a simple device, so anyone with basic woodworking skills can handle their assembly. Metal devices are reusable and collapsible, they can be reused on other objects. If you have a tool and knowledge of metal processing, it will be very easy to assemble scaffolding with your own hands.

Types of scaffolding

In addition to the type of material, scaffolding differs in functionality, method of fastening and construction. According to these features, the structures are divided into several main groups.

Wedge

To connect the parts of the structure, a special wedge lock is used. Such devices are very reliable, and, most importantly, durable. Their rigidity withstands heavy weights and mechanical loads. It is very easy to assemble wedge scaffolding with your own hands, and most importantly, after disassembly, it is also easy to assemble it like the first time. This design significantly speeds up and facilitates the lifting of large loads and materials.

frame

The basis of frame scaffolding is a rigid frame in the form of a frame. Similar devices are used in finishing and painting work. Horizontal and diagonal elements of the scaffolding are connected by nodal fasteners. The advantage of such forests is their low cost, they allow you to create convenient fixture without big expenses.

Details of pin scaffolding are fastened with metal pins. Such designs are most often used in conventional construction work due to the fact that they are more convenient to collect on site. The time for the assembly of pin scaffolding depends on the length of the object, as a rule, the process does not take more than a day.

Clamp

For buildings of an unusual, complex structure, clamp scaffolding is used. Frame parts are connected in a specific way, which is very popular in professional construction. An important characteristic in the installation and construction of drawings of such scaffolding is the step between the uprights and the crossbars. This distance is chosen depending on the configuration of the building and its dimensions.

General structure of forests

Regardless of the type of connection of parts of the structure and its type, all scaffolding consists of similar elements, such as:

vertical ribs (racks);
diagonal stiffeners (make the whole structure strong)
horizontal crossbars;
jumpers under the flooring;
boardwalk for moving workers;
stops that give the device stability and prevent it from falling back and forth;
safety fence to protect workers from falling during work;
ladder for moving between rows.

The number and size of elements varies depending on the scale and complexity of the object. To facilitate the assembly of scaffolding, a schematic drawing can be drawn.

Plank scaffolding

Perhaps, many builders and professionals have their own tricks for assembling and designing scaffolding, there are also a lot of similar instructions on the Internet. Most of the designs do not differ in anything, except for the size of the racks and the thickness of the flooring. To sort out similar instructions It is necessary to be guided by several dimensions:

the step between the racks is 2-2.5 meters;
the average width of the flooring is 1-1.2 meters;
the structure should not be higher than 6 meters.

Following these rules will create functional and secure forests. To construct scaffolding with your own hands, you will need:

boards for thrust structures and beams 5-10 cm wide, square and round beams can be used;
spacer material and protective structure 3 cm thick;
boards for lintels and wooden flooring - 5 cm thick;
nails (screws in such structures are not recommended).

After preparing all the materials, you can start assembling. First, 4 racks are fastened at a distance of 2-2.5 meters; diagonal struts are used to connect them on all four sides. Then on required level jumper boards are mounted, and flooring boards are attached to them. For protection, a fence board is installed on the racks. The final stage is the installation of supports and the installation of a ladder to go to the top of the scaffolding.

When assembling scaffolding from boards, the following nuances should be considered:

racks and supports are mounted in parallel, their location is checked by a building level;
horizontal jumpers are used to fasten the racks to each other;
the protective railing can be stuffed with cross bars for better protection.

To lengthen wooden scaffolding, several sections are used; boards are used to fasten them. Fastener boards are stuffed directly onto the supports.

Advice! Often, when fastening with nails, the wood cracks at the points where the fasteners are immersed. To protect the boards from such damage, it is worth drilling grooves in places where nails will be driven in.

Metal profile scaffolding

Metal products are more convenient if you plan to build several objects. They can be disassembled and reassembled at a new place at any convenient time. To mount the simplest scaffolding with your own hands (150 cm high, 100 cm wide and 165 cm long), the following instructions are suitable:

At the end of the work, it is enough to remove the bolts and disassemble the scaffolding into frames. The service life of such a structure is tens of times greater than the service life of wooden scaffolding. And when proper care they are able to serve long years.

Pros and cons of different designs

Building fixtures are convenient when creating an object, and after the work is completed, the issue of their storage is acute. Even when disassembled, the design takes up a lot of space.

Wooden fixtures can also be collapsible, but this is not easy to do, especially if the boards were fastened with nails. And even plank scaffolding needs to be stored somewhere. In addition, small cracks and crevices remain in the places where the nails are attached after parsing, which will contribute to decay. Often, solvent or paint remains on such structures.

Advice! If you still have collapsible metal scaffolding after construction, you can sell them at a good price or rent them out.

Self-assembled scaffolding is not suitable for working on large objects. As a rule, they are intended for buildings with 1-2 floors. Exploitation of forests at high altitudes is dangerous.

Such structures are used infrequently (for repairing or finishing facades), therefore their installation is not always appropriate. You can perform painting work without scaffolding.

Often, scaffolding is made with a length of 6 meters, which increases their weight and cost. It will be problematic to transfer such a design from place to place, and its disassembly and assembly will take a very long time.

Alternative to scaffolding

The assembly of scaffolding and their design should be considered even before building a house. If you will be hiring for finishing and repair work specialists, then you should not even think about how to make scaffolding. Usually professional teams have the entire list of equipment and tools, including scaffolding.

Often, when disassembling scaffolding and after construction, scaffolding is left idle and thrown away or sold. However, they may still be required for repairs or finishing works Oh. There are plenty of other construction aids that can replace traditional scaffolding.

Before dismantling or renting scaffolding, you should make sure that the facade is in proper shape. Do not save on finishing work, otherwise you will have to restore the decorative layer. Brick is considered one of the most durable and easy-to-clean facing materials. Today you can find a lot of varieties of this material, differing in colors, size and texture.

Typically, others Decoration Materials(plaster, paint and panels) will need frequent repairs, which will result in significant costs. To do this, you will have to hire a brigade or rent scaffolding. If you have own design from profile pipe for finishing work - you can significantly save on cosmetic repairs. To store this design, you can take a separate room or build a simple barn.

Make scaffolding with your own hands with skills in handling welding equipment and various tools the owner of a private house will not be difficult at all. Prefabricated structures are needed to organize work on cladding and repair of surfaces of facades of buildings at a height. The structure is erected around the entire perimeter of the house or at one of the walls of the facade.

Scaffolding is assembled from metal rods, timber, boards and wooden shields. The construction of the structures is a frame of vertical supporting elements with horizontal braces. Platforms are floorings made of wooden boards or other materials. Communication between different levels of the structure is carried out using stairs. Scaffolding consists of structural elements such as:

Shoes.
Vertical racks and horizontal connections.
Flooring.
Railing.
Stairs.
Net.

shoes

Supports for vertical racks are shoes (thrust bearings). Usually this metal platforms with vertical sockets for racks. For horizontal correction of shoes, gaskets and rolling shoes made of wood or metal are used.

Shoes are finite structural elements scaffolding, transferring the entire load from the structure to ground base. Before erecting scaffolding, it is necessary to accurately determine the places for supports. The surfaces of the sites must be in the same horizon, otherwise the facade fencing will warp, and the structure will become unusable. To prepare the support sites, a level or laser level is used.

Vertical racks and horizontal connections

Racks perform the main load-bearing function. For forests of low height within 2 - 3 storey building apply wooden beam. Much more often used racks of metal pipes.

Vertical supports are installed in stages - as horizontal connections are installed. Connection nodes between frame elements are performed in several ways. The main requirement for fastenings is to ensure the safe presence of people on the sites of structures.

Flooring

Work platforms are formed from wooden, steel and aluminum panels. The flooring is laid on horizontal frames formed by frame elements.

The flooring, in addition to the role of supporting platforms, performs the function of connecting elements that ensure the rigidity of the entire scaffold frame.

railing

All openings facing outward must have railings. Fences are made of timber 50 × 50 mm. The railing is located at a height from the flooring within 1.1 - 1.2 m.

stairs

Transitions between different levels of the sites are made by installing stairs. Stairs can be completely wooden or welded from steel profile. Dural ladders are not uncommon in the arrangement of forests.

It is advisable to install the stairs at an angle of no more than 450. This allows the worker to easily move from one floor to another, while carrying any load.

Net

According to the requirements of building codes and regulations (SNiP), all scaffolding must be covered with a net. The mesh is a fine mesh polymer coating Green colour(international standard).

The grid performs several functions simultaneously:

Prevents accidental fall of workers.
Prevents falling out various items outside the work area.
Protects from bright sunlight.
Protects the facade of the building during painting work from the penetration of dust from the outside.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands

There are certain standards for wooden scaffolding. The distance between the racks along the facade of the building is made from 2 to 2.5 m. The width of the flooring, which determines transverse dimension between the outer and inner fencing of the scaffolding must be at least 1 m. The height of the wooden structure must be up to 6 m.

To build a lumber frame, you will need the following materials and tools:

Hand or circular saw.
Hammer and pincers.
Roulette and level.
Nails.
Wooden beam with a section of 100 × 100 mm, 50 × 50 mm.
Boards with a section of 100 × 30 mm, 100 × 40 mm.

The thickness of lumber may be different, but not less than the above dimensions. Lumber must be dry, without large knot formations and cracks. Under no circumstances should raw wood be used. In addition to the fact that a wet tree has a lot of weight, it can significantly deform when it dries.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding

On a flat area, 4 beams are laid, cut to the size of the height of the scaffolding.
Every 2 beams are placed between each other at the width of the flooring.
Racks are knocked down with nails by crossbars. The transverse lower beams are fixed at the rate of not more than 50 cm from the ground. The top beams should be level with the deck.
The resulting frames are laid on their side, securing the position with temporary supports.
The frames are connected by two boards diagonally.
The structure is turned over to the other side and the steps to secure the diagonal ties are repeated.
During assembly, the dimensions of the openings are constantly monitored with a tape measure.
Platforms from pieces of board are nailed to the supports from below.
On the places where the forests will stand, roofing felt or roofing material is laid.
The scaffold is raised to a vertical position in such a way that the legs of the structure fit exactly into the intended places.
With the help of linings, the vertical marks of the supporting platforms are corrected.
Install the flooring. The flooring is knocked down longitudinal boards cross beam.
Floor boards are nailed to the cross beams of the frame frames.
WITH outside scaffolding above the flooring is nailed with railings from boards.
Install a ladder leading to the upper platform.
For convenient and safe movement of workers, a railing for the stairs is installed.
As the structure is erected, based on the individual characteristics of the facade, temporary fixation of the scaffolding can be applied with the help of additional connections with the elements of the building. These are struts, slopes and so on.

At the end of the work, the scaffolding is dismantled for individual elements, which can serve to meet other needs of household plots.

Types of homemade scaffolding from metal pipes

The supporting structures of metal profile scaffolding may differ in the way they are connected load-bearing elements. These are wedge, clamp and pin fasteners.

Wedge scaffolding

Connection nodes include support platforms with mounting holes, which include wedge-shaped holders of support elements. Making such designs yourself is quite difficult and expensive.

Clamp fasteners

The frame rods are fastened with special clamps. The process is quite laborious and time consuming. The advantage of clamp scaffolding is that the structures can “hug” the facades of the most complex configuration without carrying out any complex work.

Pin designs

Due to the simplicity of design and high reliability, pin scaffolds are especially popular with home craftsmen. They are quickly assembled and disassembled. This feature of pin structures attracts amateur craftsmen.

Manufacture and assembly of pin scaffolding

Before you start making multi-level pipe scaffolding, you need to prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools:

Electrical block.
Corner machine (Bulgarian).
Electric drill.
Bending device.
Level.

Materials:

Steel pipes ø 48 mm.
Steel pipes ø 20 mm.
Steel sheet 12 mm thick.
Smooth reinforcement ø 16 mm.
Wooden beam 40×40 mm.

Step-by-step instruction

Smooth reinforcement is cut into segments, 40 cm long.
On the bending device, the pieces of reinforcement are bent at an angle of 450, receiving support pins.
The device for bending the pins is made from two pieces of pipe. One is welded to a massive metal blank. Half a piece of smooth reinforcement is inserted into the pipe. A long piece of pipe is put on the other end of the pin and the reinforcement is bent.
A pipe ø 48 mm is cut into racks, equal in length to the height of the scaffolding.
Sleeves 200 mm long are cut from a pipe ø 20 mm with a grinder.
A tape measure and a marker mark the places for welding vertical sleeves.
The sleeves are welded to the vertical posts. On the corner supports, the sleeves are placed at an angle of 900 between them.
On ordinary racks, 3 sleeves are welded - in the center and on the sides.
Pins are attached to the horizontal sections of the pipe by welding, the free ends of which are turned down.
Shoes made of sheet steel measuring 20 × 20 cm are welded to the lower ends of the racks.
The height of the nests (sleeves) is set in each individual case. Usually nests are placed at a distance of 2 m from each other vertically.
The horizontal opening is made from 1.5 to 2 m.
Shields are knocked down from boards and timber with nails, which will serve as flooring.
Where the flooring will rest on the extreme beam, 2 pieces of timber are nailed to the bottom of the shield. Wooden pieces are nailed to the boards in such a way that the beam from the pipe passes between them. This will give additional stability to the entire frame of the scaffolding.
In the joints of the shields, segments from a steel angle are welded to the transverse beam on both sides so that the horizontal shelves of the angles are flush with the pipe.
Pins of horizontal connections are inserted into the nests.
In places where they will be adopted stairways, leave openings between the flooring boards.
If you need to lengthen the racks in height, then pipe sleeves are welded to the upper ends of the supports larger diameter, which form the nests for attaching the upper racks.
Ladders are welded from segments of the same pipes.
Racks lead to a vertical position.
The pins are inserted into the sockets.
Lay the flooring.
Install stairs.

The forests are ready for use. At any time, the structure can be quickly dismantled and its elements stored.

Clamp scaffold assembly

Structures of this type do not require welding. All connections are made by hand using steel clamps. Of the tools, only wrenches are required.

Along with this, it should be noted that the installation and removal of clamps require a significant amount of time. Clamps are quite expensive. The assembly of such scaffolding will require a large number of fasteners, which will significantly affect the cost of structures.

Painting metal scaffolding

When preparing pipe elements before installation, the structures are cleaned of rust. For this it is good to use grinder with emery wheel.

After that, the structures are primed with an agent for outdoor work on metal. Dried pipes are covered with two layers of paint intended for steel products.

With intensive use of scaffolding, metal elements are tinted once a year. If the scaffolding is stored disassembled, then the products are tinted as needed. Store scaffolding in a dry ventilated area.

Armenian forests

This is the popular name for simple devices in the form of wooden scaffolds. For laying walls made of bricks or cinder blocks one-story houses, use a simple fixture, which is triangles with a right angle.

The triangular structure consists of two wooden panels, between which a console is placed on the axis. The console presses at one end vertical construction one of the legs to the wall of the building, and the other end rests on the ground. Two such structures form horizontal platforms on which the flooring is supported.

Do-it-yourself "Armenian scaffolds" are far from safe, and they must be treated with caution. The owner, using such scaffolding, puts his health at risk.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself scaffolding can be rented out, which will quickly pay for all the costs of manufacturing structures. When working at height, it is imperative to comply with safety requirements.

When building walls or exterior finish buildings use scaffolding. This design makes it possible to work safely at height and keep at hand necessary tools and inventory of materials used.

Types of scaffolding

Despite the fact that scaffolding is presented in many types, their designs contain identical parts that carry the same purpose:

vertical supports.
Ties connecting supports horizontally and vertically.
Crossbars.
Flooring.
Support slopes.
Handrails.
Stairs.

Material for manufacturing

In the manufacture of forests use:

lumber;
metal.

A wood structure is much cheaper than a metal one, but it can only be used with two or three assemblies. In the future, it is suitable only for "ejection".

Scaffolding made of metal pipes, although much more expensive than wooden ones, is not limited in use. They are easy to dismantle and carry as needed. In addition, pipe scaffolding can be increased in height, complementing the tiers.

Making wood scaffolding

To make scaffolding from wood and pallets with your own hands, it is necessary, first of all, to develop drawings and determine the dimensions.

There is no need to invent anything in this regard. Many years of practice has itself determined and established sizes that are convenient for work:

the maximum height of the structure is 6 meters;
the distance between the supports can vary from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
the width of the working platform is 1 meter.

Scaffolding

DIY step-by-step scaffolding:

On flat surface the soil is laid out in two supports, preferably from a bar, but it is also possible from a fiftieth board, parallel to each other, of the same height.
The supports are fastened horizontally with crossbars, on which a work platform will subsequently be laid.
The resulting two fastened structures are installed vertically against each other and connected diagonally and horizontally by crossbars.
Boards are covered and fixed on the horizontal crossbars, which will subsequently serve as flooring.
To fix the scaffolding, side stops are installed.
A cranial bar is nailed to the supports, which will play the role of a railing.
At the last stage, a ladder for climbing is installed and fixed.

If you need to install two or more sections, then they are connected to each other wide board, which is stuffed on adjacent supports. To prevent splitting from nails, you must first drill holes for them.

The specifics of the manufacture of scaffolding from pipes

When starting to make collapsible scaffolding from pipes with your own hands, you need to know that in terms of their design data they are identical with wooden scaffolding. The difference among them is the adapters that are used to increase the height of the structure.

Detailing for the assembly of one metal section

To assemble one section, you will need:

Profiled pipe for supports 40x40 mm - 4 pcs. 1.5 m.
Profiled pipe for crossbars - 4 pcs. 1 m.
Thin-walled pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 4 pcs. 2 meters for diagonal screed.
Profiled pipe 35x35 mm - 8 pcs. 10 cm each, which will play the role of adapters.
Profiled pipe 35x35 for railings - 1pc 2 - m.
Steel plate for thrust bearings 10x10 cm 3 mm thick - 4 pieces.
To connect the cross bars diagonally to the frame, you will need 10 bolts with nuts and washers.

Assembly of metal scaffolding of one level

To assemble the structure, you must follow the instructions: how to properly make scaffolding.

The assembly of scaffolding from pipes includes the following operations:

Scaffolding supports are fixed to the shield from OSB sheet with the help of clamps.
To the supports, by welding, the crossbars are welded horizontally.
Adapters measuring 5 cm are welded to the upper end of the racks.
Having lifted the racks with crossbars from the shield, they must be rotated 90 degrees, laid again on the shield and secured to the shield with clamps.
The edges and the middle of the pipe, intended for diagonal stretching, are flattened and a slot for the bolts is drilled.
Two diagonal crossbars are tightened in the center with a bolt, applied to the uprights and a place for drilling is determined.
The crossbars are fixed on the racks with bolts and tightened with nuts.
Holes are drilled on the supports and handrails and they are bolted together.
Thrust bearings are welded to the base of the pipes.
The finished structure is installed vertically.
Boards are laid on the side rails, which serve as the basis of the working platform.

A photo of how to make scaffolding can be seen below.

It is important to remember that the diagonal crossbars must be fixed on one side of the structure, and the horizontal ones on opposite side. Then when assembling, they will not interfere with each other.

DIY scaffolding photo

Note!

Hello dear Semenych! I have been building the house for 3 years, finally it came to siding. There was a problem in the scaffolding. Question: What is the more rational, profitable way to act? Rent scaffolding? Chop - how exactly?

Eugene, Gorno-Altaisk.

Hello, Eugene from Gorno-Altaisk!

Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my giblets three times. In order not to please your colleagues to do the same with you, take scaffolding seriously.

We, with our construction teams (changing almost annually, including due to natural attrition), when installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, use both scaffolding and just stairs.

Ladders are preferably aluminum folding and retractable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor and up to 18 meters. At least, I have not seen a longer length on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to not push through the siding when they rest on it. True, traces of metal on light siding remain and then they have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.

Wooden stairs with their lengths of more than 6 meters are heavy, you are tormented to move, and even when they are leaning on the mounted siding, and this happens, they can push through it.

In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs are usually not used. Yes, and aluminum ladders do not contribute to productive work, since you often have to go down to the sinful earth for the required material. Even if there are assistants on it, feeding sheets of siding.

When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or they were stolen by bad people right from the facility under construction), then you have to borrow them from colleagues for a while or rent them from organizations that do business on this.

In our area, one day of renting the minimum amount of scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 to 1000 rubles per day.

The most popular scaffolding is the old Soviet production from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. Advantage - in their reliability and durability. The downside is the heaviness.

Now steel ones are more in use, but already with a diameter of about 40 millimeters and somewhat less often - aluminum counterparts. Various lengths and ways of fastening. Advantage - light, quickly mounted. The disadvantage is less reliability than Soviet-made ones.

Even rarer are aluminum scaffolds with two ten-meter rack sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide) that is lifted with a hand winch. You sit on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.

About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.

Crowds of designers with undisguised interest looked at original design. However, such forests are unlikely to be able to rent.

With sufficient experience in the installation of siding, and it is acquired in the process, two or three people cottage with dimensions of 6/6 meters and with attic gables, they are sheathed in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.

It is best to work with three people, when two people mount all the elements of the siding, and one person cuts the plastic to size with a grinder and feeds it.

To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction gantry scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, put the stairs on them with an emphasis on stuffed bars. For insurance, we screw them with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver (a great thing! I recommend). Or attach with wire / rope /.

We knock together goats from 1 to 2 meters high, no more, otherwise the whole town will tremble.

Sometimes we act as follows - to the fullest extent possible allowable height we mount siding from stairs (and goats / accent on the first syllable! otherwise you think ... /). And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made for a shorter period.

But more often we take scaffolding from familiar colleagues, today they give us, and tomorrow we help them with something.

One of my acquaintances, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon who does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him scaffolding for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.

To hammer together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding, in my opinion, is not rational. Especially if you put them on the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You will kill a lot of time, and you need a lot of material. Well, if then this material can be used elsewhere. And because of the bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the house around the perimeter. Less, but rather more is needed, as four peasants are indispensable. Will have to be partially dismantled.

Although the taste and color ... No later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden, who alone fenced himself out of 6 meter boards similar. True, he builds his house exactly twice as long as you, and there is no end in sight. One is building.

In any case, if you decide this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their top with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that fasteners in addition will interfere with the installation of siding when you get to this fastener.

Wooden scaffolding of this type is made from vertical 6-meter racks. You are unlikely to get a longer length - not a standard. Racks are a cut board with a section of at least 40/100 millimeters.

On the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, such boards are laid, fastened together with transverse bars-boards of the same section. They are overlapped, fastened with three or four "hundred" nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).

The crossbars are located from each other at an approximate distance of one and a half meters and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.

Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will sheathe with siding. The rack should not lean against the wall, but should be about 15 centimeters away from it. In order not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.

Place pieces of edged board under the racks so that they do not sag into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with an additional lining of such boards.

After one set is installed, it is temporarily fixed in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half - 2 meters, they put the second such set. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets, boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and the other in opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from collapsing and collapsing.

Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.

After two sets are already standing, they make a third, install in the same way.

Then put on the crossbars edged boards, usually "30" or "40" (these bend less), on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.

You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move to work higher, they are also shifted higher to the next crossbars.

It is better to climb these temporary sites using a ladder, which is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding above 6 meters, since measured standard boards are of exactly this length and building them up without additional strengthening is a tricky business.

When you get to the height of 8 meters (6 meters of forest plus your height), then this will be your roof fad.

Scaffolding is widely used for any engineering work at a certain height. Structures are classified not only by the type of material used for installation, but also by the method of fastening the constituent elements. Very often, the need arises when finishing the facades of private houses, when you need to quickly and easily move along the walls.

Use of wood material

It is not difficult to make such a design with your own hands. Most often, stable and durable frame-type scaffolding is installed independently. Such installation assumes the presence of a solid frame, which is stiffened by installing diagonals and racks. Scaffolding of this type can be made:

From a tree.
From metal.

Wooden scaffolding is easier to install, but to ensure safety, it is recommended to install them on your own only if it is necessary to carry out finishing work at a low height. For example, when finishing the facade of a house at the level of the first floor. This is due to the fact that when installing structures of greater height, it is difficult to provide them with the necessary rigidity and stability.

Video review: Scaffolding. Build Secrets

Scaffolding. Build Secrets

Metal constructions

Metal scaffolding, the frame of which is made of pipes and profiles, has several advantages in comparison with wooden ones, namely:

Higher strength, which guarantees safety during work.
Good rigidity, which ensures comfort during work.
Ease of assembly as the metal components are fixed using simple and secure fastening methods.
Durability during storage, and hence the possibility of reusable scaffolding.
Absolute fire safety.

The photo shows the finished section. It is from such elements that the design of frame scaffolding of any size is formed.

Many are interested in whether self-assembled scaffolding can be trusted. After all, working at height is always associated with danger, and, therefore, when using the structure, complete safety must be guaranteed. In this regard, the question of how to make strong scaffolding is quite relevant.

Installation process frame scaffolding of metal components is not particularly complex, so everything assembly operations can be done by hand with basic carpentry and metalworking skills. The main thing is to be extremely careful during installation, and perform all operations efficiently and slowly.

Frame-type scaffolding is mainly used for work on straight facades. They are considered absolutely safe when carrying out work operations at a height of up to 50 m. And this is much higher than wooden structures allow.

A generalized frame-type design scheme is presented below:

Metal scaffolding installation

To build quality and robust design metal scaffolding will need the following:

Profile having a section of 30 x 30 mm. for mounting uprights.
Pipes having a diameter of 15 mm. for mounting ties between racks horizontally and diagonally.
Profile having a section of 25 x 25 mm. to form the supports of the working platform and the protective fence.
Boards having a thickness of about 5 cm to form a working platform.
Bolts with nuts and washers for fastening metal components.
Self-tapping screws for fixing boards.

Before installing scaffolding of this type, it is necessary to consider a plan for the construction and location of sections. The calculation of the material is carried out according to ready-made drawings, which can be made in any form. However, it is very important that they take into account the following design features for each individual section:

Height between tiers: 2 m.
Width between posts: 1 m.
Length between posts: 3 m.

The number of sections is calculated depending on the length of the wall and the height of the house.

Stages of work

Before starting the installation, it is necessary to carefully compact the soil in the area where the scaffolding is planned to be erected. It is also desirable to equip a drainage system to prevent soil erosion in rainy weather.

At the first stage, pipe segments with a diameter of 15 mm are cut. desired length and the required quantity according to the drawings.

Cuts are made on both sides at the ends so that they can be flattened. This will allow you to make a high-quality connection with vertical posts for which a metal profile is used.

Next on construction site marking the location of the vertical racks. First, shoes are installed in these places, and then vertical racks are fixed in them, which are pulled together by transverse bars and diagonal braces in the places indicated in the drawings.

Fixation is carried out using bolts, nuts and washers, which are installed in advance drilled holes. Diagonal braces are fastened in the same way at the intersections.

After that, you should proceed to the arrangement of the working platform from the boards, which are pre-cut to size. To do this, with a step of no more than half a meter by top rails a support profile is mounted between the posts. Boards are attached to it with self-tapping screws. To ensure safety, a protective barrier is being installed around the work site. A ladder for climbing to the upper tier of scaffolding can be purchased, or it can be formed using a profile between the side racks of the frame.

Metal scaffolding can consist of several tiers. This design is formed from the right amount individual sections that are welded together. It should be remembered that in this case, to ensure the rigidity of the product, the diagonal ties must be mounted in a checkerboard pattern.

IMPORTANT! Self-made scaffolding must be reliable, and the structure could support the weight of working people, tools, building materials, and supplies.

At the slightest doubt that it is impossible to provide the necessary strength, preference should be given to purchased professional products.