Is it possible to finish the walls with drywall. Finishing the walls with drywall without a frame and a profile: we do the finishing according to the instructions with our own hands. Installation of the main frame from the "C"-shaped profile

The advent of drywall construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). The installation of this material allows you to create a surface with a high evenness index on the wall or ceiling. This, in turn, is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level the plane with any difference in the area to be trimmed. If this difference is small up to 5 cm, then you can use the frameless installation method. If more than 5 cm, then drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a crate made of metal profiles. The very technology of erecting a new surface is so simple that even it can handle it.

Photo of a curly plasterboard wall with backlight

Even more photo of drywall walls see .

This will require the drywall sheet itself and several profiles: for wall decoration - guide and rack, for the ceiling - guide and ceiling. As well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From tools:

Perforator;
Screwdriver;
Planer for removing edges;
Level;
Plumb;
Putty knife.

Tool for mounting metal frames under drywall

Mounting the frame for drywall

Let's consider . To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted into the room or out. To determine this, it is necessary to attach a suspension to the upper corner of the wall. If an indefinite distance moved away from the lower corner near the floor, then the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation site of the plumb line slightly towards yourself, that is, combine the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, it will be necessary to make marks on the ceiling right next to the wall in each opposite corner horizontally. Connect them with a line on which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them together and fix the guide profile on the floor.

In order to carry out the installation of profiles simply, you need to cut them to the size of the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, holes are made in the floor or ceiling with a puncher, where plastic dowels are hammered. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

In the event that the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then they will have to be increased. There is nothing difficult in this. Two connected elements are inserted into each other with ends and attached with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is done along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next step is the installation of rack profiles. Two outer elements can be installed at once, fastening to adjacent walls and to the upper and lower rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to put vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the place of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width drywall sheet- 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

On the lines drawn, every 50-60 cm, direct suspensions are installed, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this, you will need a puncher and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread in several rows between the two extreme rack profiles. It is on it and carry out the alignment.

Option to reinforce the frame under drywall with a wooden bar

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The step is chosen at your discretion, a lot will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the slower the step. The crossbars will strengthen the frame, make it rigid.

Drywall fixing

So, the crate is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, it is necessary to process its edges with a special planer in order to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet, install it to the crate so that it lies on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined at once on one profile. This does not apply corner element, which completely covers the sheet.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws, here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

The distance from the edge of the panel to the attachment point is 10-15 mm.
The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
Cap screwing depth up to 5 mm.

Puttying the joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and fixed, it is necessary to seal the joints. For this, a putty mortar is used, with which the seam is filled. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. This will require a spatula. Please note that the places where drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of building a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, measure the height of all corners, smallest size what you need. It is here that a laser level is set at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. Its light beams on the walls will outline the outline. They will have to install guide profiles to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, so across the room from one of the walls we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing suspensions. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are stretched between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the crate will have to be aligned along them.

Reinforced frame for plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, they are aligned along the threads and fastened to the hangers. After that, the frame will need to be reinforced with crossbars, as is the case with the wall.

Drywall finishing

If plasterboard wall it will be necessary to paint or stick wallpaper on it, then in this form it will be carried out Finishing work it is forbidden. Drywall will need to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is needed additionally. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if applied in a thin layer and modified sandpaper, then the plane will be flat.

Scheme for this type of work:

The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. You need to let the surface dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done in order for the cardboard to become the owner of a surface with a high degree of adhesion.
Next, a layer of putty is applied, which must also be dried.
If the degree of evenness does not suit you, then you will have to apply another layer. But before that, the first must be treated with a primer.
Now with fine-grained sandpaper it is necessary to process the puttied surface. For this, a trowel is used, on which sandpaper is attached. With circular unhurried movements, without effort and pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
After that, a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
Once it dries, you can paint or wallpaper.

Great advantage wooden houses in that they practically do not need to carry out finishing work. But “they don’t argue about tastes,” and in some cases, the owners of wooden cottages still prefer to see, for example, wallpaper on the walls, and for this you need to do interior decoration. One of the popular options for creating a rough surface is plasterboard wall cladding - in wooden house it is used by far the most frequently.

It is easy to attach a drywall crate to wooden walls Source gipsokarton-blog.ru

Drywall: pros and cons

Relative cheapness: it is cheaper than lining, for example;

Safety- when using a special plasterboard impregnated with means from moisture or fire, the practical qualities of a wooden house will remain, and the reliability of operation will increase;

Can be done not only wall decoration, but also do ceiling from drywall in a wooden house;

Ease and practicality of installation – big square sheets will immediately cover impressive surfaces, in addition, drywall can bend and take on a variety of shapes. It is easy to make small elements for installation from it to close hatches, boxes or pipes.

Combination of qualities: is a good covering material, and, in addition, is used when additional insulation house or its vapor barrier;

Of the minuses in the use of drywall, it is worth mentioning:

fragility– both during transportation and in operation. Without special fasteners, attempts to hang something heavy on drywall are guaranteed to end in damage to the material;

Small temperature operating mode– if it is colder than minus 10 °C, drywall work is stopped;

Bulky- with respect to other materials, drywall during installation can eat a dozen or two centimeters of valuable space, so its use in small rooms is not recommended.

Drywall can "eat" part of the room due to installation features Source ko.decorexpro.com

Features of wall decoration with drywall in a wooden house

Tree - natural material, with all the ensuing consequences during operation. Before making wall cladding with drywall in a wooden house, you must perform the following steps:

Also process the walls fire-fighting (flame retardant) solution;

Be sure to fit under drywall vapor barrier film, regardless of whether you will insulate the house or not;

The next problem of wooden houses is shrinkage, therefore, it is worth waiting for the house to pass this stage (an exception is already dry profiled timber, but such houses are much more expensive), and only then proceed to finishing;

Sliding fasteners for a drywall profile Source remontcap.ru

When installing electrical wiring, it is worth, again, be mindful of fire safety, so all the wires should be removed in a metal "corrugation" or installation open way- in cable channels.

For bathrooms and rooms with high humidity, you should choose moisture-resistant drywall, and for chimneys and stoves when finishing them - fire-resistant.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

How to install the frame

The frame in a wooden house for drywall can also be wooden or metal. The latter is considered more durable, in addition, the wooden frame can only be used in a house with full shrinkage.

A floating frame for drywall in a wooden house is absolutely necessary, both in houses before the shrinkage stage and after, because the fluctuations in the linear dimensions of the premises, the dimensions of the ceiling and floor continue. There are two main types of frame, both are mounted according to a similar principle. If a wooden frame is used, like walls, it must be treated with fire-fighting agents.

The frame is mounted after the stage of wall processing, but before laying internal communications(which will be hidden under drywall).

One of the advantages of drywall is that electrical wiring and other communications will be hidden under it. Source imhodom.ru

The metal frame is made of profiles (guides and ceiling), self-tapping screws. Also, the work uses a grinder, a cutter, a level and a screwdriver, a pencil, a stepladder, a tape measure and a cutter. If you plan to cut sheets, use a special drywall knife.

With the help of the whole set of works are performed in the following order:

Guides fastened to the floor, according to the level, “beaten off” in advance;

Lines are marked for vertical racks, at a distance of about half a meter, so that there are at least two or three guides per standard sheet, and the joint of the sheets should fall on the guide;

Racks are cut according to the following formula - the height of the wall minus about 10 cm (shrinkage);

On every profile cut grooves about 10 cm long and slightly wider than the self-tapping screw, on which it will be attached to the wall, while each profile is usually numbered (since the tree is very different, and the grooves can fall into knots or cracks, which is unacceptable: in this case, the groove is displaced);

Such attachment points on each - 3-4 pieces at least, under them small bars are also screwed onto the wall so that the support area is larger;

Source stroyert.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer interior redevelopment services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

TO installed profiles screwed on with the help of a cutter or self-tapping screws, other profiles (as if “topsy-turvy”), so that drywall can be put on top;

Install cross profiles to maintain rigidity (usually cut from a regular profile).

A wooden crate for drywall in a wooden house is assembled in the same way, but since the tree is more soft material, additionally on the surface of the bars, you can provide a recess for the head of the screw to create a perfect smooth surface. In addition, all bars also need to be treated with moisture, fungus and fire protection.

The following bars are used for the frame:

Length from 2 to 4 m;

The beam is well dried, has no visible damage and bends;

Section 40 by 40 or 50 by 50, or 40 by 50 mm.

It is believed that a wooden frame will serve less than metal, however, subject to the laying and processing technology, their service life is approximately the same (unless, of course, the timber itself is of acceptable quality).

An example of finishing walls with plasterboard in a wooden house wooden frame with sliding fastening Source fasaddomstroy.ru

We insulate the walls before installation

Before installing drywall, insulation is optionally installed - mineral wool, polystyrene or other. To prevent the insulation from getting wet, it is attached over it vapor barrier film. All materials are purchased with a 10% margin.

For installation, for example, foam, the following stages of work are performed:

Additional wall alignment or the most protruding section is determined along which the installation will be carried out;

Wall treated with a primer;

Styrofoam mounted in the reverse order of drywall - that is, first put the pieces on small surfaces, and then use large sheets;

window openings and other potential dangers of cracks are additionally puttied;

After a couple of days additional sheets are attached plate-type nails, under which holes are drilled in the wall;

If on this stage remained gaps, they are covered with pieces of foam or mounting foam(without toluene!), the excess is cut off with a knife, the joints are once again covered with an adhesive solution.

A special stapler is used to attach cotton wool. The appearance of cracks or gaps at this stage should also be avoided, since otherwise the meaning of thermal insulation will be lost.

Wool insulation wooden wall under drywall Source gipsokarton-blog.ru

The stage of treating the walls from fungus and fire should be done before laying the insulation.

Video description

Several Yet useful tips for insulation, see the video:

Installation of drywall on walls

This step seems simpler than the previous one, but it still requires:

observe technological gaps- you can leave 1 cm from the bottom, then closing it with a plinth, you will need more from above - from about 5 cm;

Besides, between the sheets themselves you need to leave 2 mm, then closing them with putty;

allowed option overlap mounting when the edges of the sheets are manually processed, forming corners at 45 degrees, then they are placed “at the joint”; the horizontal lines of laying drywall should not converge (sheets are laid in a "chessboard" order);

seams it is better to glue it on top with a tape (“sickle”) and then putty.

Video description

In some cases, to save space, the profiles are recessed into the walls. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the inevitable shrinkage of a wooden house. Clearly shown in the video:

The gaps between the ceiling and the sheets are closed decorative elements, but it is worth knowing that they also should not be attached to the walls. To maintain the flexibility of the movement of structures, the screws are not tightly tightened, I leave a small gap in case the structure “walks”. But the head of the self-tapping screw should be “drowned”, so that later it would be possible to properly putty the surface or glue the wallpaper.

In the bathroom and in the kitchen, drywall must be covered with waterproofing. Source dp32.ru

The final finishing of a wooden house with drywall after installation also allows for laying tiles.

Conclusion

Drywall is easy to use, practical and good even for a wooden house. The main part of the work does not have to work with the drywall itself, but to prepare for its installation, wall processing and laying the profile. A variety of material choices allows you to choose drywall for any room, including bathrooms, kitchens and open fires.

GK-sheets on a metal frame. Peculiarities wireframe method, advantages. Frame assembly technology. Fixing sheets and subsequent coating with putty.

Plaster wall cladding

Plasterboard sheets are used for uneven walls, hiding communications, heat and sound insulation of the room. Cladding of GKL walls on a metal frame is carried out only with very “littered” walls, where the frameless method is not suitable. And also in other cases.

When facing walls, gypsum boards follow certain rules, taking into account the nuances of materials.

Feature of wall cladding GKL on a metal frame: technology

Plasterboard sheets are attached to a metal frame in the following cases:

A "littered" wall - the curvature of the surface is more than 5 cm.
Concealment of communications - creating a metal base, they hide wiring, Internet cables, TV, pipes, hoods in it.
Wet rooms - in such rooms, the frameless method is not suitable because the sheets can peel off and deform.
Insulation and sound insulation - heat-insulating, sound-absorbing materials are placed in a metal crate. The room becomes neat, warm, quiet.
The shelf life of the wall from the GKL on metal base more than glued sheets on the adhesive solution.

Creation metal crate requires additional costs, but this method is of better quality, durable, long service life.

The technology for creating a frame base involves the following work:

Surface preparation - it is necessary to prepare the walls for fixing profiles, laying thermal insulation materials, wiring.
Purchase of material and collection necessary tool. If there is no power tool, it can be rented.
Markup - milestone, where each line should be perfectly even, each point should be in the right place.
Fixing profiles - the choice of fasteners, the correct phased installation of each guide and fastener.
Check for strength, evenness of the frame base.
Fixing drywall - the correct fixation of sheets.
Finishing- reinforcement of joints, priming, puttying.
Finishing coating - it can be wallpaper, paint, tile.

Each stage includes step by step instructions, compliance with which will not allow you to make mistakes and avoid problems in the future.

Assembling a metal frame with your own hands: installation

Before embarking on the installation of a metal crate, a number of actions are performed.

Preparatory work: surface preparation, collection of tools, purchase of materials.

To work with the surface you will need:

primer deep penetration and roller;
fiberglass reinforcing mesh;
plaster (gypsum-based);
construction gun or heater;
putty knife;
lime, copper sulfate.

Surface preparation. The walls are freed from the old coating:

wallpaper - they must be removed in order to assess the rough foundation;
paint - peeled paint is removed with a spatula;
tile - it is upholstered, there may be many cracks under it, a wet wall.

The rough base is cleaned of dust, cobwebs. Inspect for cracks, chips, holes. If there are gaps, they must be repaired, otherwise they will subsequently be larger. To do this, a crack is cleaned on the sides with a spatula, expanding slightly. Reinforced with plaster and mesh. For these purposes, fiberglass mesh is chosen. She won't let the crack go any further. After reinforcement, it is necessary to apply a layer of plaster, which will close the grid. Do the same with holes.

Wet walls must be dried. To do this, use a heater, a construction gun, or open windows and doors for ventilation (in dry, hot weather). After that, dried traces of mold are swept from the wall. The wall is treated with a solution of lime with blue vitriol. This kills the fungus remaining on the surface. Dry again. The final step is to coat the wall with a deep penetration primer. It will protect the surface from the reappearance of mold and the reproduction of fungus.

After the work is done, the surface should dry well. For this, 24 hours are allotted.

For creating metal frame tool needed:

Roulette, square, marker - for marking.
Scissors for metal - for cutting the profile into the desired segments.
Perforator, screwdriver, hammer.

From materials:

profiles - NP (UW), PS (CW);
direct suspensions, crabs;
GKL - gray, green (depending on the installation site);
insulation;
sickle or Knauf paper tape;
putty for joints;
primer;
dowel-nails 6/40, 6/60;
self-tapping screws for a metal frame 13, 16 mm;
self-tapping screws for GKL 3.5x25.

The material is taken according to the calculations + 10%.

To perform the markup, you need to find the largest ledge of the wall. To do this, use a plumb line. Mark points at the top and bottom, on adjacent walls. A square is drawn from the marked points - half-ceiling-adjacent walls. A guide profile will be fixed on these lines.

Further, 40 cm recede from the edge along the wall and draw a vertical line. Such lines are placed along the wall every 40 cm. For the strength of the frame, transverse lines are needed. Lines for them are placed horizontally every 40 cm. Cells are obtained.

All unmarked lines must be checked with a level for evenness.

Creating a metal frame

For fixing profiles in right order work is done like this:

First, NP (UW) is attached along the quadrangle on semi-adjacent walls. For this, dowel-nails are used.
Direct suspensions are attached to the walls along vertical lines at a distance of 30 cm. Fixation is carried out with dowel-nails.
The rack profile is inserted into the guide and fastened with self-tapping screws 13. Along the line, the rack profile is attached to direct suspensions.

It turns out a metal crate. If it is supposed to hang objects or equipment on the wall, then stiffening ribs are made to stiffen the frame. Segments are cut out of the rack profile and fixed horizontally between the vertical elements. Fixation to the vertical PS is carried out by crabs.

All metal structure checked for strength, evenness, rigidity.

In the crate lay wiring, cables, insulation.

GKL sheathing on the profile

Sheathing of the frame base is carried out in this order.

The fastening of whole sheets starts either from the corner, stepping back up to 5 mm, or from the center of the wall. Whole sheets are fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile so that the horizontal joints do not match. That is, the first sheet is fixed from the floor, the second from the ceiling.

The remaining windows are measured out, pieces of plasterboard are cut out for them and sewn up. If double sheathing is planned with sheets, then the second layer must be fixed with 2.5x35 self-tapping screws so that the joints do not coincide with the first layer.

After sheathing the frame, all joints are reinforced with putty for joints and sickle (paper tape). Putty close up the attachment points.

Joints should be checked for chamfers. If there is none, then cut with a construction knife.

Finishing

After all the joints have dried, the excess putty is removed and rubbed. The entire drywall surface is covered with a primer. After that, putty is applied with a thin layer. It must be plaster based.

All materials used must be from the same manufacturer.

Putty is applied with a thin layer of 1-2 mm, left to dry. After doing the grout with sandpaper, remove extra pebbles, strips. The surface becomes smooth, ready for further finishing.

Before finishing the surface, it is primed.

Finishing is carried out according to the desired style. It can be wallpaper in light colors, decorative plaster, tiling or plaster "brick". If the frame base was created with stiffeners, you can hang shelves for books or a TV on the wall using anchor wedges.

Drywall is versatile building material. Niches and shelves are made from it, communications and pipes are hidden under it. Alignment of the wall with GK-sheets is carried out using the frameless method and with the creation of a metal crate. For wall cladding with “dry plaster”, you will need a set of power tools and accuracy in the work performed.

Useful video

Hello my dear friend! Tired of throwing five-centimeter layers of plaster on the walls? Don't know how to hide wire loops or insulate a room? Maybe all your walls are cracked, and plastering is generally useless? We understand you and offer an excellent solution - plasterboard wall cladding. It is not at all difficult to do this with your own hands, if there are such sensible mentors, like our brave editors. Let's figure out in which cases the skin will be good, and in which - not so much.

Wall cladding example

The ability to eliminate any curvature of the base without additional labor costs.
It is possible to make soundproofing and insulation. Why do you need to freeze and listen at night to the cry of boozy gopars?
Speed, absence of dampness and dirt during the work.
The ability to hide and bypass communications, whether it be electrical, plumbing or the supporting structures of the building.

Disadvantages of drywall for sheathing

The thickness of the cladding, even without insulation and wiring, cannot be less than 4 centimeters.
Relatively high costs for good quality materials.
Low impact resistance.

It is clear that for ordinary smooth walls traditional plaster is more suitable, but for special tasks the use of drywall will be more justified.

Material selection

Drywall drywall - strife. Sometimes on sale you can see such a dump that you grab your head. Our masters use only Gyproc brand drywall. Why not KNAUF -. Used for wall cladding standard sheets 12.5 millimeters thick, or sheets of increased strength (like Gyproc Strong), but they are still difficult to find on sale. We strongly recommend purchasing cardboard with a height greater than the height of the room, where you can avoid unnecessary work on installing jumpers, reinforcing and puttying extra joints, etc. If the height of the room is 275 cm, we take drywall 300 cm. We cut off the excess and mount it. Then we just have to putty the vertical joints and that's it.

Now for the profiles. The thickness of the metal is especially important here, at least 0.55 mm. Forget about all these "economy" type profiles from Leroy forever, let other fools buy them. In our business, once you save, you will regret it all your life. Or do you believe in a miracle for 40 rubles? If we talk about specific brands, you can safely take KNAUF, Gyproc-Ultra.

If you need to insulate yourself, best choice for you will be plates made of extruded polystyrene foam, for example, Penoplex. For noise insulation, mineral wool from 5 cm thick is best, such as ISOVER from Saint Gobain.

What you need for installation

Guide profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PN 28×27 mm
Ceiling profiles KNAUF (or Gyproc) PP 60×27 mm
Sealing tape Dichtungsband
Separating tape
"Dowel-nails" (another name " Quick installation”) 6×40 mm
Cord breaking device
Laser level or bubble level
Rule aluminum 2.5 m
Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
Roulette
Hammer
Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
Perforator + drill
screwdriver
Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
Deep penetration primer (Knauf Tiefengrund, Feidal Tiefgrund LF)
Direct hangers
Metal shears or grinder
Mineral wool ISOVER or KNAUF Insulation 50 mm thick (if sound insulation is required), Penoplex boards (if thermal insulation is needed)
Narrow and wide spatulas

Instructions for sheathing walls with drywall with your own hands

Step 1. Marking the frame and attaching the guides

If you are the proud owner laser level, you will very easily set the ideal plane of the future cladding. If you only have a plumb or normal level, get ready to suffer a little. On the ceiling near the junctions to the side walls, mark two points. Transfer them to the floor with a plumb line and connect them all with a cord breaker (a cord with paint, if someone didn’t understand). We get a line on the floor, on the ceiling and one line on the side walls:

Facing frame marking

Now along these lines we will need to fix the guide profiles, but always through the Dichtungsband sealing tape. Its role in future noise and heat insulation is very significant. The profiles are fastened with “dowel-nails” 6 × 40 mm in increments of no more than 100 cm, it is best to do 50 cm. Strictly speaking, we need guides only from above and below, we put them on the sides for the convenience of subsequent exposure of the frame in a single plane. If you have a laser, you can not do side PNs.

Structural guide profiles

Step 2. Marking and installation of hangers

Since the drywall sheet is 120 cm wide, you can set profiles in increments of 120, 60, 40, 30 cm. 120 is too much, the wall will turn out to be too “liquid”, 60 is already normal, 40 is if it is glued to drywall ceramic tile, 30 is already too much, guys. We will consider the standard case - a step of 60 centimeters.

The first and last profile should be as close to the side walls as possible. Yes, this way we will not be able to fix one edge of the suspensions to them, but this is not necessary, this is the technology:

Cladding frame in section according to KNAUF technology

Instead of a separating tape, you can use ordinary transparent tape

As for the separator tape in this diagram. It is glued under the ceiling, if it is already finished, either with drywall or plaster. She creates the so-called. controlled crack, and the structures do not receive a rigid connection with each other. If we sheathe a wall, to which it will then be mounted stretch ceiling- Tape is not required. But it is needed at the junction of the GKL to the neighboring walls, all in order to untie them. Read about how it works in general in the material about the plasterboard ceiling.

The second profile goes at a distance of 60 cm from the side wall, the third - 120 cm and so on. This is how we got the markup:

For ordinary apartments 3 hangers are enough for each profile

For each such line, 3 suspensions are needed, it is logical to arrange them evenly along the height of the room. For example, we have a ceiling height of 260 cm, which means that we will place the suspensions at heights of 65, 130 and 195 cm. They are mounted on “dowel-nails”, or ordinary nylon dowels and self-tapping screws with a press washer, so it will be more reliable. Here's what we got:

Close up view

Installation of direct suspensions on the wall

Step 3. Install profiles

Ceiling profiles should be 1 cm shorter than the height of the ceilings in the room, but we would recommend making a margin of 15 mm, because half a centimeter was stolen from us by the sealing tape and the thickness of the guides. We DO NOT fasten the profiles to the guides, they must be untied. Remember, guides are only for guiding. There is no bearing function on them. We attach ceiling profiles only to hangers and nothing else. Here we have arranged them:

Frame racks

The best self-tapping screws with a press washer - from HILTI

The most difficult thing in plasterboard wall cladding is to set the entire frame into a single plane. It seems that you hold the profile, you start to twist a screw into it, and all this garbage starts to shake, wobble, the self-tapping screw is sloppy, it breaks all the time, creature. And so, you are all sweaty and angry, gritting your teeth, shouting out cursing and, as a result, you perforate your palm with a screwdriver bit. Okay, the dog is with him, covered it with electrical tape, drove on. And now, you seem to have twisted, you look - not in a plane! To avoid this, we strongly recommend using additional free labor and good self-tapping screws. One of you will rest the rule on the already set profiles, the second will tighten the screws. It is logical to go from the edges to the middle of the wall.

After the frame, it would seem, will be exposed, friend, do not be lazy and double-check everything properly. With a probability tending to 100 percent, somewhere something will sink or stick out. So, if on one hanger your profile sticks out, DO NOT beat it with your fist, bending the ears of the hanger. This will break the strength of the carcass in this area and, in general, to be honest, this is a little unprofessional. Remove the screw and tighten it normally. In the end, everything should look like this:

Finished wall cladding frame

If for some reason the sheets you have are less than the height of the room, you will have to install horizontal jumpers made of PP. You can do them as you install drywall, but it seems to us more convenient to use single-level connectors (CRABs) and do it still at the frame installation stage. At the same time, CRABs do not need to be screwed to the profiles, because. no load will be applied to them. This is how messy it will be:

Jumpers on CRABs

Step 4. Noise isolation

There is no need to chew anything here. You cut the mineral wool a little more than the distance between the racks and stuff it, avoiding voids:

Soundproofing with mineral wool ISOVER

Additionally, you fix it with the bent ends of the suspensions. The noise insulation index with this solution (1 layer of plasterboard and 5 cm of mineral wool) is 47 dB. It will hardly save you from perforators and the sounds of hot sex, but you are unlikely to hear the neighbor's TV set.

Thermal insulation is much more difficult. It must be done BEFORE the frame, all the joints of the plates must be foamed ... We will not talk about this for now, it should be taken out in a separate material.

Step 5. Installing drywall on the frame

There are several important rules, on which no one cares, and in vain.

The sheet should be raised above the floor by 10 mm and not reach the ceiling by 5 mm. It is the observance of this rule that protects the lining from cracks at the joints. The sheets simply hang on the profiles and do not rest against anything, just as the profiles themselves do not rest. Now think, why would such a structure crack? Exactly, there will be no cracks.
The sheet should not be fixed with screws to the guide profiles. The meaning is the same as in the first paragraph. No forces other than gravity will act on the sheets. That's the whole damn thing about drywall construction.

The rest is simple. The pitch of the self-tapping screws is 25 cm, they need to be tightened at a right angle. Leaves are arranged side by side. It will look like this:

Finished wall cladding

Sheathing with jumpers

Pay attention to the gaps at the top and bottom? They do not need to be filled or puttied with anything. About how to seal the joints of drywall sheets, we wrote in detail in the lesson on, so we will not repeat ourselves. Everything is the same here. If something was not clear, watch the video from Knauf:

Yes, we have analyzed the simplest case - a wall without windows and doors, but you need to start with a simple one, but we will definitely write about slopes and all sorts of other difficulties in the following materials. Subscribe so you don't miss out, and feel free to ask questions in the comments.

In contact with

Decorating the walls in an apartment, at times, becomes simply an unsolvable task, because there are various reasons interfering with this lesson:

Roughness. This is a problem for all apartments, since the vast majority of them were built during the Soviet era. This problem can be solved, but a lot of plaster will be required.
Dampness. Whatever they say, on the walls panel houses there is moisture, which gradually seeps into the apartment through the finishing materials.
Bad soundproofing. This trouble is also known to everyone who lives in a high-rise building. The constant "presence of neighbors" haunts, sometimes even at night.
Thermal insulation. She also leaves much to be desired. Even in the warm apartment the walls are cold to the touch.

What to do?

Fortunately, science never stands still and in the early 2000s developed a wonderful material - drywall. To work with it, special skills are not required, a lot of time for repairs, and you also do not have to take out mountains of garbage.

Most experts in their field to the question: “How to sheathe walls with drywall?” - answer that there is nothing easier.

This is a rather low-cost option that allows you to finish the walls of a room in a couple of days, depending on the diligence.

Set of tools

First of all, you need to purchase a tool that you can’t do without:

Perforator, for fastening load-bearing structure to Wall
Scissors for metal, for trimming the profile
Screwdriver, which is useful for fastening frame parts and sheathing it with drywall itself
Roulette, for measurements
Pencil, for marks
Stationery knife, because sooner or later, you will have to cut off the desired piece of drywall
A laser level would be better, however, a regular one will do.
A hammer, because, perhaps, something somewhere needs to be slightly bent, tapped.

After the whole set is ready, we get to work.

Material selection

For work you will need:

drywall (preferably in the height of the room);
guide profile UD 27x28;
rack profile CW 60x27.

Drywall

There are three types of drywall:

ordinary (GKL) - used in heated dry rooms;
moisture resistant (GKLV) - used for finishing the walls of kitchens, bathrooms, garages;
fire-resistant (GKLO) - used in rooms with increased requirements for fire safety.

In the case of cladding the walls of the apartment, the first and second types are used. Regarding the sizes, they are:

in length: 2.5 or 3 meters;
in width - 1.2 m;
thickness: 6, 9 and 12.5 mm.

The walls are sheathed with slabs, the minimum thickness of which is 12.5 mm. Plates 6 mm thick. and 9 mm. used for radius surfaces, curvatures and arches.

Never buy drywall packing sheets, inspect each sheet in the presence of a consultant.

Profile

The selection process is quite simple:

the CW profile must not be crushed by hand;
the UD profile should not critically sag under its own weight;
galvanizing should evenly cover the profile;
there should be no white spots on the profile;
the ends of the profiles must not contain traces of rust.

The reliability of the entire structure depends on the thickness of the profile.

In the process, you will also need crabs to connect profiles.

Stages of plasterboard wall cladding

The whole process can be divided into four stages

markup

Do it with a plumb line and a level. A plumb line aligns the vertical, and a level - the horizontal. Draw vertical lines from any adjacent wall starting at a distance of 60 cm from it.

The markup should be done in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets "lies" in the middle of the rack profile.

Based standard width a drywall sheet of 120 cm. The distance between the profiles should be exactly 60 centimeters.

Frame installation

After marking is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the frame. To do this, fix the profile on the ceiling and floor to create a perfectly flat surface. Fastening is carried out using dowels at a distance of 80 or 100 cm from each other. According to the markings, guides are installed on the wall and rack profiles. They are connected to each other using self-tapping screws with press washers.

To make the structure more rigid, you can use a guide profile as horizontal jumpers.

Installation of drywall sheets

Sheets of drywall are mounted on a finished frame made of profiles. They are fastened with screws to the profiles at a distance of 20 to 25 cm. In the case when the height of the room is greater standard size sheet, namely 2.5 m, then it is better to fix them in "discordance". Then the remaining space can be filled with trim left from the installation.

To cut a sheet of drywall, you can use a regular breadboard knife.

Puttying joints

After completing the wall sheathing with drywall, it is necessary to seal the seams. To do this, they are first primed, then a special self-adhesive construction mesh is glued and the sections are treated with sickle. It is used to ensure that the putty does not crack at the joints.

At the final stage, it is also necessary to putty the attachment points of the self-tapping screws. After the putty dries, they are sanded, like other irregularities. In the final part, it is necessary to apply the final layer of putty to the drywall surface.

Conclusion

With a frame made of metal profile sheathed with sheets of drywall, in the end, it turns out perfectly Smooth surface walls. Now it is ready for further refinement with any paints or applying other patterns according to the designed interior.