Spraying garden trees in spring: preparations, consumption rates and rules. Spraying fruit trees after flowering from pests Do I need to spray trees in May

It is difficult to ignore the losses caused by diseases and pests of the apple tree, because not only the quality of the fruit and the quantity of the crop are deteriorating, but also the likelihood of its complete destruction increases, and often even the next year's crop. That is why it is so important in the fall for one eradicating spraying, using one of the preparation options (only one, you don’t need to spray all at once!), to treat apple trees and others fruit trees. About when it is optimal to carry out processing in the autumn, what means can be used, in what combinations and doses it is necessary to spray, we will tell in our article.

When to process apple trees in the fall

Autumn eradication of apple trees from diseases and pests is carried out strictly after leaf fall, when the tree has completely passed into a dormant state, its buds have “closed” and become inaccessible to powerful and strong solutions (they will not burn) with which we will spray the tree. At the same time, it is important to be in time before the onset of frost, that is, the temperature should be above 0 degrees (including at night).

Thus, the approximate timing of spraying an apple tree in the fall in the middle lane (Moscow region) is the second half of October - the first half of November.

Note! Autumn spraying of fruit trees is most often carried out at a temperature of +5 degrees, therefore, when choosing means for processing, you should pay attention to their operating temperature, since very often many products work in conditions above +10 degrees.

Video: autumn eradication spraying of fruit trees (apple trees)

How to spray an apple tree and other fruit trees in the fall: rules and recommendations

Before starting the autumn processing of the garden, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules and recommendations:

By the way! Similarly to an apple tree, you can process other fruit trees, as well as berry bushes. But in this article only diseases of pome crops (apple, pear, quince) are indicated, with which drugs are struggling. However, the essence of the need for spraying does not change from this.

• Shortly before the procedure remove all plant debris (leaves, twigs) from under the trees. If the tree did not hurt, then they can be thrown on compost heap, but if it hurts, then you need to burn it or bury it very deeply.

Don't forget about security measures. Before spraying, put on a special mask, goggles and rubber gloves. Even better if you have a special bathrobe.

• Processing should be carried out on a fine day (in dry and calm weather), and it should be sprayed in the morning so that the bark is already dry by evening. If the rain will quickly wash everything away, then spraying will be useless. It is very good if the solution is held on the tree for at least 2-3 days.

Advice! If it rains, and after them they promise a drop in temperature to minus values, then you will have to leave the trees without autumn processing until spring. Unless, if a “window” with a plus and without rain suddenly appears.

• For example, and very poorly soluble in cold water, so first vitriol should be diluted in warm water(40 degrees), and then dilute to the desired concentration with cold water.

Important! Iron and copper sulphate should be diluted or dissolved only in glass or plastic containers, but not metal ones.

• Do not forget to filter the solution when pouring into the sprayer (especially if the product is sparingly soluble). As a rule, you should have a special mesh. If there is no such mesh, then you can strain, say, through tights.
• Autumn spraying of fruit trees should be as thorough as possible, and not only the crown and all branches of the tree are subject to treatment (especially for old trees with cracked bark), but also the soil in the trunk circle. However, do not handle lawn grass, which grows next to the tree (as an option, you can throw a film on the ground under the tree before processing).

Important! This applies to the use of all means for processing apple trees from diseases and pests in the autumn, which will be listed below.

• Ideally, if during spraying you create a whole cloud of solution, similar to fog.
• If you are near fruit trees conifers grow, then the processing must be done very carefully, trying not to fall on them, even more so if the garden has been sick and you are using a strong solution that can scorch evergreens.

Note! If you processed an apple tree in the fall, this does not mean that you don’t need it - it’s still necessary. Autumn eradication spraying is actually similar to early spring garden treatment (the very first).

How to spray an apple tree and other fruit trees in the fall from diseases and pests

To prevent diseases and insect invasion, in the autumn processing of trees it is very important in the mind, that is, in the right combination and dose, and also, depending on the condition of the trees, use the protection agent of your choice for apple trees and other fruit and berry crops.

By the way! All the products that will be presented below are of contact action, which means that they are washed off by rain and do not accumulate, that is, they cannot harm either people or plants, especially in autumn, when the trees are already “hibernating”.

Urea (Carbamide)

Urea is a very powerful tool for autumn processing of apple trees and other fruit trees in your garden.

At high concentrations, this fertilizer (under these conditions It's not a nitrogen supplement actually burns out all fungal and viral infections, as well as effectively fights many pests who decided to spend the winter in the trees. Thus, carbamide plays a role at the same time and fungicide, and insecticide. In other words, spraying an apple tree with urea in the fall is an excellent prevention of spotting, powdery mildew, and even.

What concentration of urea solution is needed to process apple trees and other fruit trees in the garden?

Dose first of all depends on whether your trees were sick this year and how severe the infestation was:

Important! The concentration does not depend on the age of the tree.

• if the trees did not hurt (the garden was “clean”) - 200-300 grams per 10 liters of water;
• if the trees were sick - 500-700 grams per 10 liters of water.

Note! Indeed, urea (carbamide) is a nitrogen fertilizer, which in the autumn period can provoke the growth of shoots, but due to the fact that the treatment is carried out shortly before the first frost, urea will not cause any effect other than “eradicating” (fungicidal and insecticidal).

inkstone

Another excellent broad-spectrum preparation for autumn processing fruit trees. For example, for an apple tree will greatly help in the prevention and protection against such fungal diseases and infections, like, powdery mildew, various rots, including black cancer. It will help get rid of mosses and lichens (in theory, after processing they will die and fall off the bark themselves).

Iron sulfate supposedly also works against harmful insects that overwinter in the bark.

But! Many experienced gardeners believe that it is useless to fight against pests during the eradication spraying in autumn, because. they themselves died, and they laid all the eggs long ago, and their larvae pupated and hid.

Naturally, the expense of the funds again depends on the state of your trees this season - whether they were sick and how strong the infection was. So the dosage is as follows:

• if the trees did not hurt or practically did not hurt - again, 200-300 grams per 10 liters of water;
• if the trees were sick - 400-500 grams per 10 liters of water.

Important! You can apply urea and iron sulfate at the same time by preparing a kind of tank mix. That is, for example, in 10 liters of water dissolve 200 grams of urea and 200 grams of iron sulfate. Urea will certainly work against the larvae of harmful insects.

Video: autumn processing of apple trees and other fruit trees and shrubs

By the way! More about the use of iron sulphate in horticulture read

blue vitriol

In general, the spectrum of action (specifically for processing an apple tree) is similar to iron sulphate, except that you cannot definitely defeat mosses and lichens with the help of such spraying.

By the way! Iron and copper sulfate are often used as a disinfectant (antiseptic) for wounds that remain after.

Consumption blue vitriol to prepare a working solution for autumn spraying:

• if the trees did not hurt or practically did not hurt - 100 grams per 10 liters of water;
• if the trees were sick - 300 grams per 10 liters of water.

Advice! Do not mix iron and copper sulfate (or). Better in autumn treat with iron sulfate (optionally with urea), and in the spring with copper sulfate (Bordeaux mixture).

Bordeaux mixture

Thus, spraying an apple tree with Bordeaux liquid (similar to copper sulfate) helps in the prevention and control of other blotches, as well as powdery mildew, various rots, including.

You can buy ready-made Bordeaux mixture either. For example, for a 3% solution, you will need to take 300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime. Copper sulfate is dissolved in 5 liters warm water, then lime is dissolved in a separate bucket (in 5 liters). Then, in a thin stream, constantly stirring, the vitriol is poured into the lime solution.

The required concentration of the solution of Bordeaux liquid when processing the apple tree in autumn:

• if the trees did not get sick - 1% (100 grams of copper sulfate and 100-150 grams of lime per 10 liters);
• there was an infection - 3% (300 grams of copper sulfate and 400-450 grams of lime per 10 liters).

Important! Do not be afraid if, after processing with Bordeaux liquid, your garden has become blue color. It's simple: the solution has a bluish color due to the presence of copper, and keeps on the branches thanks to lime. Sometimes such spraying is called "blue".

Video: spraying fruit trees in the fall - scheme and means

What else can you spray trees in the fall

It's worth understanding! There is no point in treating with the preparations that you used in spring and summer, because. they are designed for foliage treatment, and the autumn eradicating spraying is carried out precisely after all the foliage has fallen.

Some summer residents process their apple trees and other fruit trees in more sophisticated ways, for example, by making a tank mix based on "Quick"(for diseases) and Karbofos(from pests), they are perfectly compatible).

If it seems to you that Karbofos is too “powerful” a remedy, then it can be replaced with "Bison"(from pests), while it is better to carry out 2 separate treatments with each preparation (without mixing into one mixture).

Video: autumn processing of the garden (apple and other fruit trees) from diseases and pests for the winter with the help of "Skor" and "Karbofos" (or "Zubr")

In order to properly and safely for you and your garden, in one eradicating spraying, treat apple trees and other fruit trees from diseases and pests in the autumn, it is necessary to optimal timing, in the appropriate combination and the correct dose, use one of the effective drugs you have chosen.

Note! In autumn, only one eradicating spraying is carried out. It is not necessary to treat the tree with all the preparations at once and several times. That is, for example, it is enough to process only with urea and either (as a rule, experienced gardeners choose one of them). But in subsequent years, try to change the drug.

In contact with

You can count on a high yield only if you take care of the garden properly. Therefore, the owners who are aware of this, annually carry out the processing of the garden. The success of this event depends on the quality of its implementation in spring period. After all, it is at this moment that it is decided whether the plantings will be well protected from pests and diseases.

When spring warmth begins to be felt in the air, many people have a desire to be closer to nature. At these moments, the soul wants to enjoy the variety of colors that various plantings in summer cottages give us. And in order to bring this moment closer, gardeners are trying to more carefully prepare the garden before fruiting.

To determine the scope of upcoming work, first of all need to see the garden. According to its results, it will be clear what will have to be done. After a long and cold winter there are bound to be many broken branches that need to be removed. However, the spring processing of the garden is not limited to this, because it also includes a lot of other important activities that are designed to protect plantings from pests and diseases.

Why and when is the best time to treat the garden?

To reduce the harm that diseases and pests can bring, many gardeners use chemical and organic methods to deal with them. However, the end result largely determines the experience of the gardener. This in turn determines what the crop will be like at the end of the season. The effectiveness of all planned activities can only be improved if they are carried out at the right time. Therefore, as soon as the last cold weather passes and fruit ovaries begin to form on the trees, you need to immediately get to work.

Stages of processing a garden in spring

If you trust the experience of experienced summer residents, then it is better to process the garden before 10 a.m. or after sunset- after about 6 hours. Such a choice is not accidental, since it is during these hours that the activity of the sun is minimal, and therefore the risk of leaf burns is extremely low. As part of the spring processing of the garden, the following main stages can be distinguished:

• in early spring;
• before bud break;
• before and after flowering;
• during the formation of ovaries.

Spraying the garden in early spring

One of the traditional activities for the processing of the garden is the whitewashing of tree trunks. However, it is better to carry it out before the cold. Therefore, it is recommended to plan it in the fall. As a result of this operation, you can protect trees from damage by rodents, so the remaining whole bark will not crack as a result of exposure to frosty wind. In the spring, it will only be necessary to examine it in order to understand whether it has endured the wintering well, and to correct it if the need arises.

The first treatment of the garden must be carried out in the first of March, while the buds have not yet begun to bloom. After waiting for the snow to melt, you can prepare the plantings for processing. To do this, the territory of the summer cottage is put in order, the heaters are removed from the protected stems, as well as the branches that have not survived the winter. After that, spring processing is carried out, designed to protect trees and shrubs from insects.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to inspect the tree trunks and remove the detected fungi from the surface. After that, on the bark applying lime mortar. The process of its preparation will be as follows:

• you need to take 2 kg of lime and mix it with 10 liters of water;
• then 1 kg of clay and 330-350 g of copper sulfate must be introduced into this mixture;
• all components must be thoroughly mixed until smooth;
• now the solution is ready, it can be worn on the trunks and bases of the branches.

As a result of such treatment, insect eggs and larvae will be removed, which can often be found on the bark and cracks of the bole.

However, today more modern and effective preparations are available to gardeners. Although they cost a little more, they can be used to process trees much faster and with less labor, preventing insects from causing great harm to plantings. Many of them contain fungicides that increase planting resistance to many diseases. Similar properties are the following means:

• acrylic whitewash;
• acrylic paints;
• lime pastes containing copper sulphate.

Not only copper sulfate, but also diesel fuel can help protect trees and shrubs from pests. After processing the plantings, a protective oily film will appear on them, which can protect trees and shrubs from annoying insects. If insects try to lay larvae and eggs on trunks and branches, they will die under a ball of diesel fuel. At the same time, all open flower stalks and blossoming leaves will remain intact and unharmed.

Spring processing of the garden before bud break

Then comes the next step - fruit tree processing before the awakening of the kidneys. The main goal of these measures is to prevent insects that hatch from larvae, as well as pathogens of various diseases, from infecting trees and shrubs. Diseases such as scab, black cancer, coccomycosis, etc. can cause the greatest harm to the garden.

However, regardless of whether you are going to use blue vitriol or other modern drug before using it, it is recommended to read the instructions for use. The fact is that in stores there are drugs that were originally designed to process only certain types of fruit trees. In order for such a treatment to meet your expectations, you can carry it out with a solution of insecticides and contact fungicides. The effectiveness of this event will increase many times over, as this will help not only rid the plantings of pests and diseases, but also prevent their occurrence in the future.

If you want to minimize harm, which will help get your plantings as a result chemical processing, you can use a safer mixture prepared based on herbs, tobacco and orange peel. The process of its preparation is as follows:

• a 3-liter jar is taken and filled with crushed tobacco in an amount of 200 g;
• then you need to put a handful of garlic husks and the same amount of onions, needles and orange peels;
• after that, water heated to 70 degrees is poured into this mixture;
• the jar needs to be hermetically sealed and a warm place should be found for it, where it should stand for a week;
• when the time comes, the finished tincture needs to be diluted warm water in the amount of 10 l;
• then the composition must be thoroughly mixed and added to it in small parts 100 g of crushed tar soap;
• now the tool is ready, and it can be used to treat the garden. If necessary, it can be repeated after 10-12 days. However, this can only be done before flowering.

Garden treatment in spring before and during the flowering process

It is possible to carry out the processing of shrub trees until the buds begin to bloom. This will help not only prevent caterpillars of the codling moth from harming them, but also reduce risk of scab and spotting. To prepare the solution, you can use "Carbofox". To do this, take 70 g of the drug and dilute in 10 liters of water at room temperature. However, if the trees and shrubs have already begun to bloom, then it is impossible to engage in such processing.

Re-treatment of fruit trees can be carried out at the end of the flowering period. It is necessary to reduce the likelihood of infection of trees and shrubs in the next season, as well as to increase the resistance of plantings to diseases.

Usually inflorescences bloom at the moment when ticks appear that have successfully endured the winter. Dealing with them can help. colloidal sulfur: to prepare the solution, you need to take 80 grams of 70% of the drug and dilute in 10 liters of soapy water. It is very important that this treatment is carried out in a timely manner, otherwise all your crops will suffer as a result of the invasion of mites.

Spring treatment of the garden from pests and diseases during the appearance of ovaries

When carrying out the final stage of spring processing, the main task that must be solved is to ensure the protection of the fruits of the new crop from putrefactive diseases and pests that have managed to survive. However, it is recommended to first inspect the plantings to determine if there are visible enemies on the trees and shrubs. After all, if you use chemicals, which have a strong effect, then in addition to the destruction of insects, significant harm can also be caused to the ovaries.

As a preparation for spraying fruit trees, the choice can be stopped at copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid, carbamide. It is also allowed to use combination drugs that have universal sphere applications. However, processing should be optimal humidity air. Otherwise, there is a possibility that after spraying the leaves will receive serious burns.

Spring processing of the garden does not imply strict rules for its implementation. However, there important nuances, considering which it is possible to carry out this work most effectively.

Spray order. If you want to completely destroy pests and diseases, then you should treat every part of the trees and bushes with a working solution, for example, copper sulfate. Usually this work begins with the crown, then they move on to the branches, and finally they process the trunk and soil in the root zone.

Time and conditions of work. The best time to do spring gardening is early in the morning. It is advisable to choose a dry, calm day for this work, during which precipitation is not expected. In this case, after treatment, the solution can be immediately absorbed and act quickly. As a result, you will be sure that the leaves and inflorescences will not be affected.

Calculation of the amount of solution. The results of the spring processing of the garden may be different. If it is important for you not only to destroy pests and diseases, but also not to harm trees and shrubs, then you need to correctly determine the consumption rate of the drug. You can find out if you look at the instructions for a specific tool. Knowing this, it will be easy for you to understand exactly how much certain chemicals will be needed.

• it takes about 1.5 liters of solution to process one young tree;
• for an adult - 5.5 liters.

For spraying bushes, a different amount of solution may be required - from 0.6 to 1.5 liters. It is possible to say more precisely how much liquid is needed, knowing the dimensions of the crown.

Conclusion

Experienced gardeners know how to get good harvest. To do this, they regularly cultivate the garden. And they start doing this business in the spring. It is difficult to overestimate the importance of this event, because it directly depends on how well trees and shrubs will be protected from pests and diseases. Knowing which preparations and when it is better to use, even a novice summer resident can count on the fact that at the end of the season the garden will give him a lot of tasty and healthy fruits.

One of the main requirements for the care of fruit plantations is seasonal processing. This treatment is done by any summer resident who is eager to grow a beautiful garden with a significant yield. Spraying trees in the spring with the necessary preparations will protect the garden from the misfortune of pests and pathogenic microorganisms.

The main task of this treatment is to prevent the appearance of butterflies, aphids, caterpillars and all kinds of beetles, and also to minimize the possibility of infectious, viral and fungal diseases.

• For example, aphids cause significant damage to fruit trees such as pear, plum, apple, apricot and cherry plum. This pest infects the bark of a tree, forming nodules on its surface, which eventually crack, turning into sores. Aphids infect the leaves of trees, which first curl up and then dry up. The affected areas eventually stop growing and dry out.
• The main enemy of plums, cherries and sweet cherries is the cockchafer, or rather, its larvae, which live in the ground for three years. This pest can destroy entire gardens of young trees by destroying their root system. The flight of adult beetles occurs in May, and they also destroy young leaves and fruit ovaries. Spraying trees in spring makes their leaves unattractive to beetles.
• Flower beetles are found everywhere. With warmth, weevils crawl out of the soil where they hibernated and go to the opening flowers, in which stamens and pistils dine. Measures to deal with them late autumn dig up trunk circles(or cover them with a thick layer of hay, sawdust, straw, through which the beetles will not get out).
• Sawflies and codling moths. These terrible insects can make the entire crop of plums, peaches, apples, pears, nectarines simply inedible. Methods of struggle - only one spraying.

Chemical treatment of the ground part of fruit trees allows you to save not only foliage, but also ripened fruits, which means you get a tasty and healthy harvest.

Irrigation of the orchard with chemicals must be carried out on time. Untimely and incorrect processing of plants will not give any effect.

When and how many times to spray?

Spraying fruit trees is done more than once, starting in early spring and ending in late autumn. Gardeners, given their vast experience, have sorted out a special schedule for irrigating the orchard. It describes in detail how and when to irrigate trees throughout the season.

The first spraying of fruit trees from pests is done in early spring. Many novice gardeners are wondering under what weather conditions this procedure can be carried out. So, experts advise doing the first spraying immediately after the snow melts, at a temperature of about 5-6 degrees Celsius.

Processing of fruit trees, as a rule, is carried out in the second half of March. Just at this time, the process of bud enlargement begins in plants. During spraying, as well as in the process of pruning trees, the gardener must pay special attention to cracks that may contain harmful insects. Before spraying trees, they must be prepared for this. The trees are carefully cleaned with a brush, then a freshly prepared solution is applied. The solution is applied on the day of its preparation, otherwise it will become useless. It will not remove pests, but trees can get serious burns.

The cultivation of the garden in March is aimed at combating insects that infect trees, getting out of the soil.

The next spraying is carried out in April. The purpose of this spray is to protect the flower buds on the trees from various fungal diseases and the deer beetle.

May processing is carried out in order to prevent the appearance of harmful insects and diseases. This procedure is carried out after flowering trees.

The processing of the garden does not end there; with the onset of autumn, its additional spraying follows. This is a kind of preparation of fruit trees for winter. As soon as the trees shed their leaves, in October-November, it is time to start processing them. In this case, it is advised to use chemicals. If, nevertheless, spraying will be implemented without their use, then the first autumn treatment can be carried out immediately after harvesting - in September.

How to prepare trees for spraying?

Trees over 6 years old are cleaned of old bark and lichens with a brush. Growths and other accumulations on the trunk of trees in no way affect their general condition. But it is worth noting that it is in these places that pathogenic microorganisms most often like to gather. Spraying is carried out immediately after cleaning.

The final processing of fruit plantations, as well as shrubs, is carried out after harvesting and leaf fall. The site is completely cleared of weeds, leaves. The latest spraying of the garden is carried out after the first frost.

What and from what diseases to spray trees in the spring?

There are several effective preparations that gardeners use when processing fruit trees and shrubs. To date, there are a lot of substances for spring and autumn processing of orchards. The most popular tools used by many gardeners over the years:

• Carbamide or urea.

It is impossible to give preference to any one of the above-mentioned means, because each of them is aimed at eliminating a specific disease or pest. One drug can be used only in the spring, the other - only in the fall. Experienced gardeners advise stopping spraying chemicals on fruit trees and shrubs 3-4 weeks before harvest.

Processing the garden with iron sulphate is performed twice during the entire season. The first spraying is carried out during the formation of foliage, and the second - when the trees are preparing for wintering. This drug has a double action. It enriches shrubs and trees with iron, and is also effective protection from all kinds of pests and diseases. Iron deficiency in fruit trees is expressed in a banal way - low yields and underdevelopment of fruits. Spraying vitriol based on iron fruit plantations is carried out not only in spring, but also in autumn, for preventive purposes, and also for the extermination of lichen, moss, cytosporosis, black cancer and septosporosis.

The treatment of the garden with copper sulphate is carried out in the same way as in the previous preparation - twice per season. The first treatment is done in early spring, even before the appearance of young buds. This substance must be handled with care, since even the weakest concentration of copper sulfate can burn young foliage on trees. This is an excellent disinfectant, healing wounds on the trunk of trees and shrubs. Trees such as pear, plum and apple are sprayed with this fungicide in both autumn and spring. Copper sulphate protects orchards from moniliosis, scab, clasterosporosis and curliness.

For one young tree, up to 6 years old, add 2 liters of a freshly prepared solution. For adult specimens, 10 liters of liquid are used. Garden processing is carried out in the morning or in the evening, when there is no wind, at a temperature of 10 to 25 degrees. On hot days, it is advised to refrain from treating with this drug, as it is quite aggressive and can harm both animals and people. The solution is prepared in a place remote from water bodies.

Carbamide (urea) is considered to be no less effective drug against pests. First care orchards at the beginning of spring, it begins with spraying them with this particular preparation. This procedure is carried out immediately after flowering. The second spraying with this substance is carried out before wintering. Urea is intended to save the crop from the invasion of various pests. Properly made solution allows you to achieve the desired effect.

At the first spraying, an increased concentration of urea is used with the addition of a small dose of copper sulphate. Such a tool is effective not only against a variety of pests, but also allows you to slow down the growing season in some fruit trees by 2-3 weeks. This allows you to save the color on the trees during the last frost.

7 days after flowering, fruit plantations are sprayed with a weaker solution of urea: 50 g of the substance is diluted with a bucket of water. This protects the trees from leafworms, aphids, caterpillars, suckers and flower beetles.

The second treatment is carried out in the fall, when the trees are halfway without foliage. In this case, a solution of increased concentration is used. Spraying is also carried out after the complete fall of the foliage. In this case, spraying is carried out with a solution of urea with a concentration of 8-10%. Not only trees, but also the soil around them are subject to this treatment. This substance has a double action - it disinfects plantings, and also nourishes the soil. Here it is extremely important to choose the right concentration so as not to harm the trees and not reduce their resistance to cold.

Just like other drugs, it is applied twice - in autumn and spring. This oil product must be used with extreme caution, as it can cause burns to trees and shrubs, as a result of which they die. Therefore, spraying with diesel fuel is carried out strictly before the formation of buds and leaves on the trees in the spring. The second spraying is carried out only after the trees completely lose their foliage.

This substance is strictly forbidden to use in its pure form. It is diluted with water or other liquid, thereby reducing the concentration and destructive action. A diluted solution of diesel fuel is extremely effective in combating rot.

Apply it in early spring and late autumn. The finished solution consists of 200 g of the substance, diluted with 1 bucket of water. Treatment with this drug destroys many pests that have remained on the trunk and branches since autumn. It can be a false shield, aphid, whitefly, mealybug, leafworm and moth, etc. The 30V preparation is often used in the fight against insects in the summer. This substance is considered harmless. When applied, it forms a thin film on the canopy of trees, which prevents the supply of oxygen and moisture for pests at the stage of eggs and larvae. Such conditions eventually lead to the death of insects.

Despite the safety of this drug, experienced gardeners use it no more than once every three years.

Today, two types of devices for spraying orchards are produced - manual or mechanical. This is a necessary thing for the correct and effective implementation procedures. It improves spray quality and protects the grower from contact with the chemical. Each device is equipped with a pump. To work with drugs in powder form, there are devices with air supply.

Apparatus on the mechanics are characterized by convenience and high cost. The pumping principle for manual and mechanical devices is also different. Each model has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, here you should already proceed from the needs and possibilities when buying this thing.

We wish you success and good harvests!

It is at this time that work can be done to preserve the crop and increase it. How to process trees and shrubs in early spring? This question is asked by every gardener. Everyone wants the work not to be in vain, and that the reward is a good harvest of fruits and berries. Therefore, a number of measures should be taken, the purpose of which is to protect garden plantings.

The benefits of spraying

If you do not spray trees and shrubs, then soon the garden will be affected by diseases and pests. This reduces the yield, slows down the appearance of fruits and berries. Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to decide on the methods of this event. Spraying is carried out several times a season. It helps to get rid of caterpillars, aphids, flower beetles, silkworms, powdery mildew, scab and other diseases and pests. Process everything and

Spray time

Usually garden plantings are treated three times during spring and summer. The effect of the solution lasts about two weeks. This should be the minimum break between sprayings. Processing should be stopped 2-3 weeks before fruit collection. In general, it is not advisable to use chemicals after the appearance of the ovary. Therefore, before treating trees and shrubs in early spring from diseases and pests, carefully read the instructions for the drug. Shrubs are sprayed much less frequently. When berries appear on them, processing can be stopped altogether. For this procedure, it is better to choose dry and calm weather.

Spraying steps

The first stage of processing falls on the earliest spring. At this time, pests that have successfully endured the cold period are destroyed. This is followed by the time of the second treatment. It is carried out after the appearance of the leaves. Thus, gardeners get rid of awakening insects. At the same time, prevention of various diseases that garden plantings are susceptible to is carried out. The third time the plants are sprayed after flowering. At this point, you can disable spider mite and codling moth.

Preparatory work

Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work. First, you need to go around your possessions and remove old fruits and existing nests of pests. Old branches of plantings should be cut off. It is they who are good place for wintering and reproduction of pests and diseases. We take the branches outside the garden and burn them. Hot showers are used for shrubs. To do this, the water is heated to 70 degrees and poured onto the plants. This method helps to get rid of many pests and their larvae that overwinter on shrubs. This procedure must be carried out before the juices begin to move, so as not to harm the plants. How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring without chemicals? Many experienced gardeners advise spraying garden plantings with a solution. This is about 150 grams of salt per 10 liters of water. A few days before the first spraying, trees and shrubs should be dug. We also cut off unnecessary shoots and branches.

First processing period

How to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from pests? The first treatment is carried out in order to prevent the formation of scab. Even before the buds swell, the trees are treated with Fundazol or Skvor. There are many other tools with a similar composition. Before the procedure, the crown is thinned out and the trunk is covered with a layer of lime. When the buds begin to swell, another treatment is carried out, which disinfects the tree from the gall mite. To do this, you can use the drug "Neoron". Among more safe means urea solution can be isolated. 500 grams of the product is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This solution also has a beneficial effect on the quality of the soil, spreading throughout the season.

Continuing early processing

Before processing trees and shrubs in early spring, they should be carefully examined, identifying the presence of danger. Many drugs have a specific effect on a particular pest or disease. Therefore, it would be more expedient to use exactly the right components. When the first leaves begin to bloom, you need to carry out prevention from caterpillars that damage the leaves of plants. To do this, use the drugs "Kinmiks" and "Fury". From powdery mildew (and also as a re-prophylaxis of scab), you can use Fundazol and Skvor.

Fighting weeds

As you know, weeds are not good neighbors for With them it is necessary to fight constantly, not allowing them to grow and bloom. good remedy for this is "Roundup" or similar drugs. Processing must be carried out with extreme caution. The trunk of a tree or shrub must be covered with any material that will not allow a toxic substance to enter the cultivated plant. Then spray "Roundup" on the weeds. Protection can be removed from the tree in a day. Remember that weeds are the best breeding ground for pests.

Final stage

The final processing of shrubs and trees is carried out after flowering. But this does not mean that the fight against pests and diseases is over. These are the main points of spraying, but it is desirable to carry out the procedure much more often. After flowering, the codling moth, aphid and leafworm are activated. Here, Fury is considered an excellent treatment tool. Spraying is best done twice, with an interval of 20 days. Additionally, you can use the preparations "Skvor" or "Fundazol". If the tree trunk is damaged by black cancer, then it must be treated with a 1% solution and covered with garden pitch. Further processing trees is carried out as needed or for prevention, but with an interval of two weeks. From small rodents, you can use the drug "Zernotsin-U".

Shrub processing

Spraying shrubs has its own characteristics. It is carried out much less frequently. For processing, almost the same preparations are used as for spraying trees. From powdery mildew, gray rot and fusarium wilt, you can take "Fundazol". It also works well for fungus on gooseberries and raspberries. Before the appearance of buds, shrubs are treated with Topaz. This tool will help get rid of a special type of powdery mildew. During the swelling of the buds, "Clinmixol" and "Phosbecid" are used, which prevent the appearance of leafworms, sawflies and gall midges. After the appearance of the ovary, re-treatment with "Topaz" is carried out. From slugs, you can use Metaldehyde granules, which are scattered between plantings.

It is better to finish the processing of berry bushes during the period of fruit ripening or a month before they are harvested. After harvesting, the plants should be treated again with any remedy for pests and diseases.

Folk remedies

There are many remedies that gardeners have come up with and tested in action. Folk ways treatments are distinguished by their minimal harmfulness to the future crop. But the effect of their use is not so small. Tomato leaves, namely their infusion, help well in the fight against caterpillars and leafworms. Two kilograms of foliage is poured into 5 liters hot water. After 5 hours, the infusion is boiled and filtered. After that, the product is ready for use. The spraying procedure must be repeated after a week.

Many gardeners are wondering: how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from aphids? Along with mites, it is a very common pest. To combat them, use a decoction with potato leaves. To do this, part of the tops is mixed with two parts of water. After 5 hours put the mixture on water bath for 40 minutes. Then the broth is filtered and cooled.

Bordeaux liquid - this is how to process trees and shrubs in early spring before flowering will be just as effective. This is the most popular and proven method of struggle. It can also be used in subsequent spraying periods.

Very often, mosses and lichens form on the bark of trees. This is an excellent breeding ground for pests and diseases. Many novice gardeners are interested in how to treat trees and shrubs in early spring from moss? It is simply removed from the surface of the bark with burlap or other hard material. Do this before spraying, so that the surface of the trunk is completely processed. The further appearance of moss must be controlled.

After completing the entire complex of processing, you can extend the life of trees and shrubs and achieve a good harvest.

Spraying the garden in the spring is an important agrotechnical event, and everyone knows this. Sometimes site owners approach spraying the garden in the spring formally, without thinking too much about the essence of this agronomic procedure. Then the annual spraying of the garden in the spring runs the risk of becoming "senseless and merciless", even dangerous.

Our desire to put a barrier to pests and plant diseases is quite understandable. In the weather in the Middle lane, fruit and berry crops are regularly threatened by at least 70 types of pests and about 20 varieties of infectious diseases. Humanity has ways to suppress the maximum of them, but then environment and the food will become dangerously poisonous to humans as well. Finding balance is the main task of spring events.

Refusal of processing

It must be admitted that the absence of global preventive irrigation is by no means the worst option. Definitely it is more reasonable than any excess.

• It's okay to relax a bit country cottage area quite young and has not yet accumulated a large mass of harmful organisms.
• It is necessary to plant unpretentious, resistant varieties in the garden (there are problem-free roses, scab-free apple trees, blackcurrants without mites and red-gall aphids, gooseberries without a sphere library, strawberries with almost no gray rot, etc.) and in the best place.
• Regular agrotechnical measures are needed (thinning, pruning, digging, deoxidation, fertilization, mulching, traps, etc.).
• It is useful to apply spraying with biological preparations and stimulants from spring to autumn: immunomodulators Epin Extra, Zircon, Gumi; biopesticides Strobi and Fitoverm, microbiological agents such as Fitosporin. All of them act on already vegetative plants.

Even the most ardent supporters of organic farming are ready to give up if a significant part of the crop regularly dies in the garden. The way out is to seek a compromise: minimal harm with maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of pests and diseases, not forgetting about the environment.

Everything at once

"Give me something to spray everything and everything in the garden at once in the spring" echoes before the start of the season in garden shops. Even a simple and logical question from a reasonable seller: "Are you from diseases or from pests?" - able to lead the buyer into a stupor. Of course, a nimble seller will hand over some treasured product, to the delight of the buyer. As a rule, there are two results, and both are disappointing:

1. There is almost no effect from spraying.

2. The garden accumulates poisons.

Spring is a flexible concept

"Wide is my native country," and in garden recommendations one has to separate the seasons of the calendar and natural seasons. For agrotechnical measures, two natural indicators are important (according to different regions dates differ by a month or more) - air temperature and stages of plant development in the spring garden:

• Before the kidneys swelled
• "green cone" - the very beginning of the extension of the leaves,
• budding,
• bloom,
• young ovaries.

The concept of "spring spraying" is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between the spring and summer periods. However, two stages can be clearly distinguished: processing before the swelling of the kidneys and after this event (when the leaves and buds are advanced).

When, how and how to treat the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the phase of dormant buds

We carry out the first spraying in the spring when low positive temperatures occur in the garden (+4 +6 degrees or slightly higher), but always before the buds swell, for dormant plants. Everywhere different height and the rate of melting of the snow cover, and cultures wake up at different times, so it is not always possible to meet one specific day. Black currants wake up very early and, but a bed of strawberries, sheltered roses and grapes, can be under snow for a long time (especially on the northern slope).

Exceptions for plants

What horticultural crops can not be sprayed at all during this period

• Honeysuckle practically does not get sick and extremely rarely suffers from pests - if this is your good case, then we bypass it for now.
• This may also apply to blackberries (especially late ripening ones).
• If your garden is planted modern varieties black currant, which are not damaged by powdery mildew and bud mites, then there is no point in spraying in early spring either. You still can’t get the glass inside the shoots, and the aphids are still in deep sleep (we will defeat it later with a biological product like Fitoverm).
• Do not need to be sprayed with fungicides and gooseberry varieties that are hardy to the sphere library.
• In many gardens, sea buckthorn does not get sick.
• In the case when your pears do not show serious problems from year to year, it is also permissible to put them alone.
• If there were previously prosperous years, there will be no need for disease protection for apple varieties that are immune to scab and hardy to moniliosis (fruit rot).
• Finally, the vines often do not need any treatment in the northern viticulture zone.
• By ornamental shrubs and perennial flowers need a thoughtful individual approach.

This is very important point- to determine the circle of problem-free plants that do not require excessive care: for us - saving time, effort, money, and most importantly - the benefit of the environment. Chemical protection of the garden is carried out not all the time and not "just in case", but at real risk.

Scope

Before the buds swell, berries and fruit trees (strawberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, cherries, cherries, cherry plums, quince, peach, apricots, grapes), a rose garden, and flower beds need to be sprayed. At this time, the impact is more focused on diseases and only partially on pests, many of which are still dormant.

What to spray, optimal processing methods

Hot water

Having brought a bucket of water to a boil, immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of any color of currants and gooseberries (sometimes they also capture raspberries and blackberries) - only over the sleeping bushes. It is believed that this partially destroys wintering forms of pests and diseases. Water with a temperature of strictly +65 degrees is poured over bushes from a watering can garden strawberries immediately after the snow melts - from a strawberry microscopic mite and a nematode.

"Blue spray" - Bordeaux liquid

This is an ancient, invented a century and a half ago, but still the most useful measure against almost all fungal and bacterial infections on all crops and on the soil surface. It is carried out with such a tool as strong Bordeaux liquid - at a concentration of about 3% (and not 1%, as in green foliage). In the instructions for the drug, sometimes there is a discrepancy in the ratio of lime and copper sulfate in solution. This confusion stems from the fact that the original recipe used quicklime, and now most often they take slaked (calcium hydroxide), and more is required. When a store-bought Bordeaux mixture is purchased, it is better to act clearly according to the instructions. If it deals only with the preparation of a 1% solution, then for a 3% solution we simply reduce the amount of water by a factor of three. With independent purchase of ingredients for 3 liters of water, we take 100 grams of copper sulfate and slaked lime (or about 150-200 quicklime).

The alternative is Burgundy liquid. We cook in the same way as Bordeaux, but instead of lime we use soda (calcined or food); sometimes we also add a spoonful of soap or sugar to better stick to the branches. There is an option where we replace part of the soda with mustard powder and ammonia; let the mixture boil with the passage chemical reaction, and then we immediately process it.

Drug 30+

The official manufacturer is only NPF Sober. This is an emulsion of vaseline oil, originally used in the spring to combat the scale insect (the most dangerous fruit pest) in Krasnodar Territory. It turned out that the remedy is practically harmless to humans, but it disrupts the breathing of insects wintering on the branches of bushes and trees. From spraying in early spring, not only scale insects die, but also other insects wintering in crowns, even eggs and larvae. We stir a liter of the product in two buckets of water and spray the garden, spending a liter or two per bush and up to five liters per bush. a big tree. The substance is dangerous for bees. A similar product, Prophylactin, also contains a similar oil, but plus liquid karbofos (malathion), which is highly poisonous and useless at this time.

More spring spraying options

In early spring, a strong solution of urea (600 grams per bucket) is also used, sometimes with the addition of copper sulfate (50 grams).

Iron sulfate is also used for spraying, especially in the fight against lichen and moss, as well as against various diseases on grapes, roses, and fruit trees. A kilogram of iron sulfate is dissolved in twenty liters of water (for stone fruits such as cherries, the concentration is weaker, 600 grams per two buckets).

Both products are considered very burning, and experienced gardeners recommend using them not in early spring, but in late autumn. In addition, spraying them in the spring can delay bud break in the garden for a week.

Not an option

Agronomists do not advise resorting to folk remedies such as salt, diesel fuel, kerosene.

I would especially like to say about Nitrofen. The drug has long been recognized as the most dangerous carcinogen and banned in many countries, including Russia!!! You will not find it on sale (and you don’t need to).

Spraying at the stage of bud break ("green cone") and nomination of buds

At this time, all sorts of harmful organisms begin to wake up - both microscopic and those that are larger. A cool rainy spring ensures the early development of diseases, and sunny weather will please all insects.

Treatment for diseases (fungicides)

Preparations with copper

It is not too late to use Bordeaux liquid for continuous processing - only at a concentration of 1%. Flowers, grapes, apple-pears, cherries-plums, flowers in spring are also treated with HOM, Abiga-Peak is also used.

Biologicals

It is during this period that adherents of ecological farming carry out the first two treatments with such means as Fitosporin (everything in a row), Alirin (strawberries from gray rot, fruit trees), Fitolavin (apple trees from fruit rot).

This group includes the drug Strobi. It is a naturally occurring fungicide. It is used on apple and pear at the very beginning of its vegetation.

Prognoz (and other drugs with propiconazole)

Goods of identical composition: Forecast, Agrolekar, Chistoflor, Propi Plus. These are modern fungicides that are considered not too toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: strawberries (from gray rot), raspberries, gooseberries, currants.

Pureflower (and other products with difenoconazole)

Pureflower, Rayok, Skor, Diskor, Guardian, Plantenol represent the same contents. They are used on pome and stone fruits and berries, as well as on beautiful bushes, roses and other flowers.

Topaz (Penconazole)

In the spring - this is the prevention of rust and powdery mildew on flowers, currants, gooseberries.

Thiovit Jet

This is sulfur - against powdery mildew on currants, apple trees, roses.

Horus

Designed for grapes, all pome and stone fruit crops. It is considered not too dangerous for bees, birds and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: there are no aphids, no caterpillars, no spider mites in the garden yet. It makes sense to use poison if last year there was a dominance of pests (weevil, raspberry beetle, sea buckthorn fly, codling moths, leafworms, etc.). You can not spray at the time of flowering - you need either before this joyful event, or immediately after, strictly according to the instructions.

Poisons-pyrethroids

This is, Spark Double effect, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphate poison (malathion)

These are Karbofos, Fufanon, Iskra M.

Double poisons

This is Alatar, Inta-CM.

Copper preparations are recommended to be used separately. The rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides, after checking whether this causes a violent chemical reaction. Studies show that the addition of a stimulant such as Epin Extra allows you to reduce the dosage of chemicals by one and a half to two times while maintaining effectiveness.