Installation instructions for the metal roofing system. Metal tile installation: instructions for performing the work. Upper valley strip

Metal tiles - reliable and durable roof covering. The high corrosion resistance of this material is ensured through the use of high-quality raw materials (galvanized steel from the world's leading manufacturers) and special polymer coatings. You can buy from the Stroymet company. We also have other roofing materials in stock. famous manufacturers from Russia and Finland.

Additional elements of Grand Line metal tiles

	Fixes sheets of metal tiles at the ends of roofing slopes, preventing the fasteners from loosening. Protects the structure from wind and precipitation.
	Upper valley strip Decorative element, covering the joint between the slopes at the inner corners of the roof.
	Bottom valley plank Provides removal of precipitation at the joints of adjacent slopes.
	Prevents uncontrolled snow removal from roof slopes. Protects against additional snow load gutters, as well as the area adjacent to the building.
	Closes the joint of adjacent roof slopes, preventing precipitation from entering the under-roof space.
	Mounted in the end part of the ridge.
	Protects the frontal board and other wooden elements of the rafter system located in the lower part of the eaves overhangs from the negative effects of moisture.
	Junction strip Installed at the joints of roof slopes with vertical structures(walls, chimneys).

Basic requirements when working with metal tiles

Shipping

To avoid damage, the sheets must be firmly fixed in the car body. At the same time, they must fit completely in the body along the length (otherwise, kinks are possible on the overhang line). Optimal driving mode vehicle: speed no higher than 80 km/h, without sudden acceleration or braking.

Loading and unloading operations

They can be done manually or using special equipment (forklifts, cranes with soft slings). Packages are unloaded onto a flat, clean, dry surface. The number of personnel during manual unloading depends on the length of the sheets (1 person per 2 linear meters, but not less than 2 people per 1 sheet). Carrying is carried out in a vertical position. It is prohibited to drag sheets on the ground or other surfaces.

Sheets of metal tiles are stacked using wooden bars (laid at the base of the stacks) and slats (laid between the sheets). If storage is carried out in an open area, it is necessary to ensure a slight slope of the sheets along the length to allow water to drain. It is prohibited to carry out any activities in the immediate vicinity of the storage area. welding work, as well as other operations that can damage the surface of the metal tile.

Safety precautions

To avoid cuts from the sharp edges of metal tiles, personnel should wear protective gloves. In the process of lifting sheets onto the roof and installing them, it is necessary to use safety equipment. It is prohibited to carry out work at height in difficult weather conditions (strong wind, rain, hail, snowfall).

Fasteners

To fix sheets of metal tiles, self-tapping screws are used. of stainless steel with polymer gasket. Approximate consumption – 6-7 screws per 1 sq. m.

Tools for installing Grand Line metal tiles

Note! When cutting metal tiles, do not use angle grinders with abrasive wheels. Violation of this requirement can lead to intense corrosion of products (due to damage to the zinc layer and polymer coating).

Roofing pie structure

Modern roofs consist of several layers that perform different functions. The reliability and durability of the roof is ensured through the use of high-quality materials and proper installation of Grand Line metal tiles. If even one element is installed incorrectly, this will lead to a sharp reduction in the service life of the entire structure. According to the experience of Stroymet specialists, violation of installation requirements entails the accumulation of moisture in the insulation (because of this, it significantly deteriorates performance characteristics), as well as destruction of wooden and metal parts (due to rotting and corrosion).

1. Metal tiles.
2. Lathing.
3. Waterproofing.
4. Rafter leg.
5. Counter-lattice.
6. Vapor barrier membrane.
7. The first sheathing board.
8. Gutter bracket.
9. Frontal board.
10. Dropper.
11. Cornice strip.
12. Ventilation perforated tape.

Installation of thermal insulation

It is laid between the elements of the rafter system. To make it hold better, it needs to be cut with a small margin in width (1-1.5 cm). Installation must be organized in such a way as to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture entering the thermal insulation layer.

Installation of vapor-waterproofing films and membranes

Insulating materials are laid on both sides truss structure: outside – waterproofing, inside – vapor barrier. Laying is done horizontally, from bottom to top, with an overlap of 15-20 cm.

Standard waterproofing is installed with 2 ventilation gaps of 3-5 cm:

• between the film and the heat-insulating layer;
• between the film and the roofing covering.

The superdiffusion membrane is installed with 1 gap (between the membrane and the roofing). A second gap is not needed, since the performance characteristics of the membrane allow it to be laid directly on top of the thermal insulation layer.

When installing a vapor barrier, a gap is required between the film and internal lining. The overlap lines of adjacent film rows are sealed with sealing tape.

Installation of drainage system brackets

Brackets designed to fix the gutter are mounted in such a way as to ensure a slight slope of the structure towards the drainpipes. The vertical displacement parameters are determined by the formula: h = 0.005 x L (L is the distance between the outer hooks). The brackets are first numbered and marked taking into account the specified offset. Correct installation long brackets are only possible before laying the roofing. The design of short brackets allows you to attach them to the frontal board at any stage of roofing work.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing is usually made of wooden boards and bars. They must first be dried and treated with fire and bioprotective compounds.

A drip tray is installed at the bottom of the eaves overhang, designed to drain water and condensate into the gutter.

The first sheathing board should be thicker than the rest (the wave height of the metal tile is added to the standard thickness). The recommended distance between the bottom edge of the first board and the middle of the second is 30 cm, from the center to the center of the remaining elements of the sheathing is 35 cm.

A continuous sheathing is installed next to the ridge, in the valley area, in places where snow retainers are installed, around the perimeter of chimneys.

Installation of curtain rods

The cornice strip protects the front board from moisture and dirt. Using self-tapping screws, a ventilation tape is attached to the ends of the counter slats and the first board of the sheathing.

Installation of lower valley strips

The joints of adjacent slopes experience increased operational loads. Therefore, a continuous sheathing is installed in the valley area and a special seal is installed. The valley strips are mounted from bottom to top (starting from the eaves strip) with an overlap of 30 cm.

Installation of a bypass around the perimeter of the chimney

The waterproofing film is placed on the surface of the pipe (an overlap of at least 5 cm) and secured with self-adhesive tape. Then, abutment strips are installed around the perimeter, which are inserted with the upper side into the grooves made in the outer wall of the pipe (recommended depth is 1.5 cm). After this, drainage is done (to the nearest valley strip or to the eaves overhang).

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, wooden boards and bars are installed lifting structure, on which the sheets are fixed. After this, the metal tile along with the structure is carefully lifted onto the roof. During the lifting process, personnel must use safety equipment.

Installation of metal tiles Grand Line

To avoid damage to the sheets, work must be carried out in shoes with soft soles (sports or special), and you can only step into the deflection of the wave.

Laying is done from bottom to top. Bottom edge the sheets are carried 5 cm beyond the cornice and carefully leveled along the entire length of the slope.

Before installing Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to install a lightning rod.

• The sheets are attached to the deflections of the waves in places where they fit tightly to the sheathing boards.
• The metal tiles are attached to the first board of the sheathing through a wave, above the step.
• Sheets are attached to other boards under the steps (as close to them as possible).
• Along the edges of the slopes (at the gables), each step is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Through exits to the roof

To ensure the tightness of through exits, Stroymet specialists recommend using self-adhesive tape and silicone sealant.

Dormer windows

Installation is carried out in the following order:

• the bottom plank of the valley (extended below the pediment line of the dormer window structure);
• roofing;
• upper valley strip (it is recommended to install a special seal before installation).

Installation of end strips

The planks are mounted from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm (the recommended pitch between screws is 30-35 cm).

Installation of the upper valley strip

This is carried out after laying the universal seal. Allows you to hide possible unevenness of cut sheets at the junction of adjacent slopes.

Installation of junction strips

In places where metal tiles adjoin vertical elements, a polymer sealant must be installed to ensure effective waterproofing. The planks are fixed with roofing screws.

Ridge installation

The ridge strip is fixed through the wave with special ridge screws (they are longer than standard ones). A self-adhesive ventilation tape is pre-installed over the entire ridge. Plugs are installed at the ends of the ridge.

Installation of roof safety elements

In areas where snow guards will be installed, roof ladders, transitional bridges, fences, continuous sheathing must be installed.

Snow guards are installed at the bottom of the slope (but above the eaves overhang, otherwise they may not cope with the snow load).

The fasteners must fit not only into the sheathing, but also into the elements of the rafter system.

Eaves overhang trim

Plastic or corrugated sheets can be used as cladding materials.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure a good level of ventilation of the under-roof space (Vilpe valves are usually used for this).

According to Stroymet specialists, the optimal solution for lining eaves overhangs is vinyl soffits. Their installation is carried out using wooden blocks and additional elements (J-profile and J-chamfer). Perforated soffits help maintain comfortable air circulation in the under-roof space.

Installation options for brackets for drainage systems

The drip tray is used to remove condensate from the waterproofing film (connected to it with double-sided tape).

Ventilation tape - prevents clogging of the under-roof space and improves air exchange. Fixed with self-tapping screws.

Post-installation care

Upon completion of the installation of Grand Line metal tiles, all debris (metal scraps, shavings, residues) must be removed from the roof surface. Supplies etc.). If micro-scratches are found on the sheets of Grand Line metal tiles, it is recommended to apply special paint to them. This will not only make the damage invisible, but will also avoid corrosion.

The procedure for installing drains

1. The gutter is marked for the installation of funnels.
2. Holes are cut the right size, funnels are being installed.
3. Plugs are attached to the ends of the gutter (rivets and silicone sealant can be used for additional waterproofing).
4. The gutters are installed on brackets and connected to each other using special connectors.
5. Brackets intended for fixing drainpipes are installed on the façade of the building in 1 m increments (at least 2 brackets per pipe).
6. The drainage riser is being installed (pipes, elbows, connecting pipes). The drain elbow should be located 20 cm from the ground.
7. Drainpipe connects to the funnel, then the structure is adjusted and all the brackets and clamps of the riser are fixed.

Coastal zone (less than 3 km from the seashore)

Solano e30 Granite®HDX Velur® Colorful Print dp® Polyester Zinc GL Granite drainage system Aluzinc drainage system

The terms of the company guarantee for Grand Line metal tiles can be found upon purchase at Stroymet sales offices ( detailed information contained in the warranty cards).

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for roofing. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficient large sizes, the risk of damaging them during careless installation still exists. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

Related article:

Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is installed between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows can be installed metal profiles. Pass-through type snow guards are optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

Metal tiles have long become one of the most popular roofing materials. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can install it. In reality, the situation is different - with due diligence, any careful person can cope with this job.

Where to begin?

Installation of metal tiles begins with careful preparation for work. The first step is to calculate the exact need for material and, of course, start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the required fragments is done at an angle grinder, but without abrasive wheel– it damages tiles too easily. The previous roofing cake must be removed without a trace, because the rafters are not designed for two coverings at once; This is where the preparation for installation generally ends, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

To lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing them requires using a tape measure. To climb onto the roof, it is extremely important to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is done using an electric drill and screwdriver. From hand tools you need a hammer, a black stationery marker, wooden slats great length. When working, be sure to use gloves and glasses made of durable plastic.

You also need to stock up on components such as:

• guide boards;
• roofing strips;
• waterproofing material;
• the tile itself;

• aero rollers;
• end and ridge strips;
• decorative overlays;
• self-tapping screws with washers;
• board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

The calculation of the necessary elements for a gable roof has its own characteristics. Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (along the slopes). The calculation of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. Here we mean the working width together with overlaps, and not the one obtained when measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to always round the resulting non-integer value up and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and used on two slopes at once.

The simpler the type of roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less tiles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlap. But this results in more complicated work and more difficult transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 m, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and it will be at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves installing:

• waterproofing film;
• one or more ventilation gaps;
• vapor barrier.

Special staples are used to secure films; The moisture barrier layer itself may be permeable or impermeable to vapor. The passage of water vapor is required if there is a cold attic, but for a heated residential attic this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be ensured. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as under any layer of metal on the roof, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on arranging ventilation and antenna output in close conjunction with each other. Typically, the top of the antenna outputs is cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the posts. The passage elements lead to the outlet of the ventilation pipe, which must be held in place with self-tapping screws. To link outer part hoods with an air duct in the house, useful corrugated pipe; To fix this pipe in a given position and seal the connection, adhesive tape is used.

All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but you also need to understand its suitable type.

One of best options mineral wool is considered because it:

• does not burn;
• well absorbs steps and impacts of raindrops on the roof;
• mechanically strong;
• stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
• can be installed with your own hands without any hassle.

On the side of warm rooms, cotton insulation must be thoroughly protected with a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability to water vapor is high.

Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the valley structure. All flanges are laid underneath with a layer of insulation, and to hold the cut sheets, you will need screws. No less significant than the valley is the passage through a metal roof steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a floor sheathing.

Qualified professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box surrounding the pipe outlet to the top. The box itself must be protected from direct contact with the chimney. To isolate them from each other, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is used. The geometric shape of a given unit is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. Mostly circular structures are made from metal and cement.

It is forbidden to lead the pipe outside through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

Any chimney pipes must be equipped with protective umbrellas.

When forming the external apron, waterproofing materials that are resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around steel chimney will need to be covered with a thermal insulation barrier or box; this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of fluff, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool more practical and safe.

When venting any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are installed. When installing a pipe in an already created roof, the joints are treated with sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensation, a drainage gutter is useful. You don’t have to buy it; you can do this thing yourself. Round chimneys are attached steel brackets, in this case, gaps are always provided for thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof and its properties. The slope changes - and the house’s susceptibility to precipitation and wind immediately becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope by size if you use a formula of the form X = H / (1/2L). The height here is the interval between the ceiling and the ridge, that is, the height of the rafters, and length refers to the width of the house.

To convert the roof slope into percentages, all that remains is to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. Using this scheme, you can find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then you need to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal to each other, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the floor, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complex, there are many differences and relief details, a correction is introduced regarding horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the influence of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of wind load transmitted to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not move down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most metal tile manufacturers, normal roof operation in winter conditions is guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to increased costs for the material, an increase in the windage of the created roof and difficulties with drainage.

But at the maximum flat roof There are also some disadvantages.

After all, a small slope does not allow water to seep through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

IN winter time there will be more problems with clearing snow from the roof– if you don’t do this or don’t do enough, it may fail. At small angles of inclination, the sheathing becomes heavier and it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not be possible to make an attic or attic of a large area.

If we look at gabled roofs, other difficulties emerge. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down on its own. But heavy metal tiles can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attaching each element to the sheathing as carefully as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with excessive steepness, you will need to lay more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than feasible in practice.

For a pitched roof, the most practical value is a corridor of 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

Once the outer contour and shape have been selected, it is time to deal with the rafter joints. As a mauerlat, they usually take a square-shaped coniferous wood beam, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The section of the beam should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to the load-bearing walls. A triangular shape is assembled from the rafter legs roof structure, which takes the brunt of the weather, so special attention must be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared, directed vertically to the structure, thanks to which the compression from the ridge is evenly distributed along the load-bearing walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard standards, but by performing special calculations.

In addition to them, they are equipped with tie-downs - these are horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under different loads. But ties are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have solid support, there is no need for this element at all. Redistribution of bending loads from ridge knots carry out struts. As for the sheathing, it is made of wooden boards and timber, placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the legs of the rafters, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

• ridge (correct joint between slopes);
• overhang - a detail that extends 40 cm beyond the contour of the load-bearing walls and prevents moisture from penetrating their surface;
• fillies - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it.

As for the choice of the number of slopes, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

Thus, shed roofs are used only where there are no attics - on small houses, over porches and outbuildings, over utility buildings.

Tent roofs differ from ordinary gable roofs in that the gables seem to be cut at an angle to their full height. The half-hip roof is similar to a hip roof and is equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the gables are only partially trimmed. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, double-gable and so on, are much less common than gable and single pitched roofs.

Calculations

When you look at a metal tile roof, you find that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to another is called a wave step among roofers. When the pitch on a sheet of tile is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. Can be elected custom sizes, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

By counting the required number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be used to cover one roof. In addition to the main material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm in length) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in the same way as the tiles. Minimum angle the inclination is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied planks are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value differs, they are adjusted according to individual requirements defined in the diagram.

Installation methods

Choosing the appropriate type of roof and carefully calculating its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to figure out the best way to install metal tiles. This is a reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months the whole work will need to be redone. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows at a time. Regardless of the chosen path, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attached to each other with short self-tapping screws.

Then they are attached to the sheathing, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to twist the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal alignment. If installation is selected in one row, the very first sheet becomes a guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the eaves and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience it is attached to a self-tapping screw at the ridge. The second sheet must be placed on the left overlapping the first.

Then these were connected to each other using a screw: it is inserted over the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. Please note: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but they still level the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between the parts of the coating is clamped with screws that are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To make covering the roof more convenient and easier, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels, cuts, or other roofing parts that would require cutting the sheet. Lay the material, moving towards the oblique ridges or towards the valley separating the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are connected with short self-tapping screws, but not screwed to the sheathing (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid block).

Detailed operating instructions

Having briefly familiarized yourself with the construction of metal roofing and its installation, it’s time to find out how all the work should be done step by step. Design roofing pie differs depending on whether the roof is finished with an insulated or cold roof.

Rough finish

Not counting the cladding layer itself, the following are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

• lathing;
• counter-lattice;
• water retaining membrane;
• a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• substrate.

For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and limiting the movement of steam.

The sheathing is made from 5x5 cm timber; an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both options, the structures are attached to a counter-lattice beam held by the rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only does the mechanical connectivity of the parts of the cake be ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering condensation accumulation is reduced.

It is impractical to make a monolithic wooden flooring under metal tiles, so parts of the sheathing are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the wave pitch. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is fastened. Any piece of wood must first be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection agents. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or film, which must allow steam to pass through, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, and last a long time.

Waterproofing is installed exclusively in dry weather. If it rains, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

Rolls are rolled out over each part of the roof, laid overlapping, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the eaves and ends at the ridge. The lower waterproofing sheets are brought to the front boards of the eaves. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the angle of the slope, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make joints more airtight, tape and dispersion materials are used.

A common mistake is to use flammable insulation, relying on special fire-retardant impregnations.

It is recommended to use only those materials that themselves do not ignite without additional processing. The thickness of the insulation is selected by carrying out a special thermal calculation based on the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it ranges from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to slab insulation from leading manufacturers; they are the most reliable and safe.

The slabs are laid inside the rafters in a spacer; they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are elastic. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main attention is paid to the density and level of permeability to water vapor. Internal lining made from boards or gypsum boards, this work begins after the installation of other layers is completed.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

Both cold and warm roof made of metal tiles is equipped with sound-proofing material - it is placed on the sheathing either as a continuous layer, or in places where the front covering will be attached.

If the roof slope is from 14 to 20 degrees, slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, a continuous lathing is prepared from edged boards. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. The slats for the counter-lattice must be nailed to the rafter legs using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, you need to use membranes that effectively suppress the occurrence of condensation, are fire-safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

Construction staplers are used to attach water-protective membranes to the rafter legs. Layers of sheathing and counter-lattice are placed above the waterproofing. From the fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, a gap should be left filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and a mesh is stretched, which is best made from cord. A concrete screed can help the walls withstand the weight of the roof and additional load (wind, snow, ice). When the upper floor is large, it is done along all load-bearing walls, not limited only to external planes.

Additional strengthening of structures is achieved through concrete columns extending from the foundation, as well as through supports for beams holding the rafters.

The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly straight, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a plane. Heavily damaged elements must be replaced. When working with rafters, it is necessary to check their geometry with a building level after each manipulation (especially when the diagonal of the slope is displayed). Having noticed a distortion, it is removed using additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and overlapped. The previous covering from the rafters is completely removed, and after dismantling is completed, the rafters and sheathing themselves are checked very carefully to ensure that everything is intact.

When preparing for any roofing work and during the process of laying out metal tiles, you cannot cover the façade, cover the pediment, or perform other work.

Such “saving of time” is irrational and only results in additional losses.

The gap between the sheathing beams should be made in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions, but not less than 0.6 and no more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully evaluate the match between the boards or beams, because blocks differing in size and configuration can lead to damage to the roof covering . When filling the cornice, you should place the outermost strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm cannot be used to ensure the strength of the rafters and to compensate for uneven planes. Placed on top of the sheathing membrane film It is unacceptable to attach using nails or self-tapping screws, only tape is used.

Having finished with the eaves strips, they work on the drainage. It is best to purchase a dedicated system from a metal roofing supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step during installation is to secure the brackets that hold the gutters. They are also installing ventilation grilles on the eaves. Once this is done, the preparatory stage of work can be safely considered completed.

Laying the final material

The technology for attaching metal tiles is much simpler than any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties and nuances. Work from the bottom corners of each slope. If during the installation process there is a need to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the required size.

The joint between the sheets should be opposite the line along which the water will flow. If you do otherwise, rain streams will flow inside.

The first row of covering is laid, carefully watching the protrusions - it should extend 4 cm further than the cornice. There is no need to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are placed easier and faster, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments placed on the ridge. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and even the preparatory work, is carried out at heights, and this places special demands on the organization of work.

It is necessary to use special belts and safety ropes. Before climbing onto the roof, wear shoes with textured rubber soles.

• at dusk and in the dark (even with good electric lighting);
• during rain and until the surface dries;
• in the fog;
• with winds stronger than 15 m/s (even if these are isolated gusts).

You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need for work in the next 1-2 hours.

It's better to spend more time going up and down than to run into problems with cluttered space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and damaged parts of material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else go down from the roof only using stairs. It is unacceptable to throw them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone or get underfoot. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, not only before the start of work as a whole, but also at the beginning of each working day. They also carefully check the integrity and serviceability of the insulation. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, must be done with gloves and special clothing, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp and sometimes jagged.

Any instructions for professional builders always reminds me that this material is slippery, and you should walk on it extremely carefully, only with a safety belt. If metal tiles are lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start-up. You cannot walk or stand under the lifting point and within a certain radius from it (than stronger wind within acceptable limits, the larger this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges; they should only be held from the sides. If dirt is found on the metal tiles, they must be removed with household detergents, moreover, as gentle as possible. Strong mixtures may damage the coating. It is not always possible to use all the delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how their storage is organized. Metal tiles cannot be left in their factory tight packaging; they are placed on inclined bars, as this allows raindrops to escape and evaporate.

Metal tiles covered with plastic should be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you need to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material involve preliminary preparation:

• additional support boards;
• bars for through output (fire or inspection hatch);
• roof stairs;
• wall stairs partially leading to the roof;
• snow catchers;
• roof bridges.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size using saws and metal scissors, hand-held electric saws with teeth made of hard alloys. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material; it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. When planning to attach the coating, its surface must be freed from chips, fasteners and rivets. The installed metal tiles are painted with paints suitable for metal at the eaves themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the edges and to any random scratches.

A special feature of 1/1025 format sheets is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend, which simplifies installation and blocks the spreading of the material. On roofs with complex configurations, such a coating can only be laid after careful measurements, and the required length of the sheets must be calculated by professionals.

Working for hip roof, cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

If you have to step on laid sheets of metal tiles, it is advisable to walk on the places where the sheathing is installed.

It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material unless you check whether the transverse folds are properly joined after installing each block.

• 0.48x5;
• 0.48x6.5;
• 0.48x8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the covering in the lower parts of the waves, at the eaves, in overlaps. They are also recommended to secure the slats. Not all fasteners of a certain size are suitable for work; in this case, it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer of EPDM rubber. Please note: it is absolutely wrong to use nails, since they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is to tighten the fasteners all the way - in this case, the surface may become covered with dents.

Driving screws by hand is impractical and tedious. Helps simplify work electric drill, which has the functions of smooth speed adjustment and can operate in reverse mode. Shaped sheets lead at a slope of 1:4, and trapezoidal ones must be installed at an angle of 1:7. Some manufacturers refuse responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a lesser slope. For a classic-type seam roof, you need to make a slope of at least 1:12.

The gable strips are attached from the sides to the gable boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tiles. The fastenings are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the pediment planks is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is necessary to secure the end covers with rivets. The overlap is 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge strips are tied into a single block using screws and placed along the ridge.

Next, the joints between the plank and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The ridge adjacent to the slope is best done this way: the end is cut off to fit the slope and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To seal shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to use a self-adhesive joint of the “Top-Roll” type.

There is nothing complicated in all this work. You just need to be careful and careful.

Even having a complete understanding of standard technology work, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under a metal roof meets three requirements:

• a gap is ensured from the waterproofing to the metal itself;
• air flows freely through the cornice;
• nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

Only by fulfilling these conditions can you guarantee stable insulation of the attic or attic.

Before work, you should check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical destruction or exposure to insects.

You should not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made of stainless steel grades. The required length is determined by doubling the thickness of the sheathing.

If you have to join the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

Adjacent horizontal rows are placed so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, which are used to fasten sheets of metal tiles, are installed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 square meter. m, because the coating is heavy and must be thoroughly pressed against the support. When making a tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the living room on the sheathing, held in place by rafter beams. If the windows are very large, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and the anti-condensation film should be installed at a certain interval. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag by a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the sheathing is made of wood, you need to place an anti-condensation film under the counter-lattice. This will optimize ventilation between the covering sheet and the film. When a drain is created, the installation of the cornice is preceded by the placement of gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

Connect the cornice to the sheathing using self-drilling flat top screws. You need to join two eaves with an overlap of 5-10 cm. You can hem the eaves overhangs of the roof itself with corrugated sheets, metal siding or facade panels.

It is strictly forbidden to attach metal tiles to the upper deflections of the waves, and also to use a hammer to secure screws.

The lower valley is fastened with clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

The upper valley is installed after the laying of the metal tiles is completed. To do this, use roofing screws, piercing into the tops of the waves in increments of 20... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to disturb the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and metal tiles are separated using polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative cap. The joints must be treated with sealants.

Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof fits not only the walls, but also various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to metal tiles and attached to problematic elements. At the eaves level, after the second strip of sheathing, various fences are installed. Their type and specific design are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For connections, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an external zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to attach the fence to only one metal tile.

To connect the enclosing structures together, bolts are used. Snow-retaining elements are placed in the deflection of the wave; they are attached through the tiles and the sealing gasket to the sheathing itself. In the places provided for this, sheathing profiles are made in advance in increments of 12 cm (it is measured along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use pairs of them.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bituminous shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent specifications make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects uses of this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;

It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.

• simple installation procedure and ease of implementation repair work;
• wide range of color solutions;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Looking at photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
• special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
• internal and external valleys;
• other necessary elements– wall profiles, pediments, eaves strips of metal tiles, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on back side metal tile sheet:

• presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
• production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing you need to do if a decision has been made to independently conducting procedures for laying metal tiles on the roof surface - carrying out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements, which are included in the kit and allow you to carry out correct installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• yardstick;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection face and hands (glasses, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. itself, you will also need fastening elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work to be carried out before proceeding to installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

Related article:

Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. It is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
2. There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
• for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
• for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

• The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need complete replacement the entire roof covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from the bottom up;
• a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
• the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
• fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, we can consider the case when a dormer window is installed. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright colors are used as auxiliary material. polyurethane foam, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation, as well as to other external factors, for example, moisture and temperature;
• due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on rafter system;
• using this option is a great saving since there is no need to big step between fastenings. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

• For various models this material must be prepared various sheathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places on the roof (usually internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
• on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
• the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material must be removed protective covering, since this may not be possible in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. The use of aggressive chemicals is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
• It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Provided that these simple but extremely important rules are followed, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
• Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly prohibited to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget-friendly options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal tile roof, use self-tapping screws and ordinary metal corners. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where rafter step very small, install two small windows in neighboring niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay attention Special attention the issue of installing the ridge of metal tiles, if it is planned dormer window. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

The “Dachny Expert” portal expresses gratitude to the company “Spets.Krovlya” for its expert assistance in the preparation of this material.

Spets.Krovlya LLC is a reliable contractor for pitched roofs of any complexity. Guaranteed quality, clear deadlines and a fixed price, which is immediately specified in the contract and will not change!

Metal tiles are roofing material, having the shape of profiled steel sheets with polymer coating. It is used to cover roofs with an angle greater than 14 degrees.

Outwardly, it is similar to classic ceramic tiles, but surpasses it in reliability and ease of installation. In this article we looked at which is better, ?

Material stable to temperature changes and other negative climatic influences. Its main disadvantage is low soundproofing characteristics , but it can be eliminated if the work is carried out correctly.

In this article you will learn how to make a metal roof with your own hands, step by step from A to Z. If you don’t know how to choose metal tiles, That .

This stage of work should be given special attention, since it will be on the sheathing. This design also provides a natural interior roof space.

1. Metal tile sheathing is made from wooden beam. The relative arrangement of the boards can be continuous or thinned out.
2. Most often used sparse designs, while the distance between the boards () is strictly tied to the distance between the lower depressions of the tile waves, since in these places the material has the greatest strength.
3. Distance between the first two beams on the slope side there should be approximately 70 centimeters less than the established pitch.
4. The minimum thickness and width of the board for sheathing is 25 and 100 mm respectively.
5. The width of the board for the counter-lattice can be half as large. The first board from the edge of the roof should be 15-20 mm thicker than all the others.

NOTE!

Pre-boards are calibrated one size at a time to avoid future distortions and unevenness in the location of the tiles.

Lathing step

Installation of the structure is carried out after completion . The main lathing is attached to the counter lath, which is connected to the rafter frame with self-tapping screws. At the ridge of the roof, additional support boards are laid under the metal tiles.

Calculation of metal tiles

Count the required amount of material for roof construction is done as follows (or use):

When counting the number of sheets in a row, you need to keep in mind the value overlap, which can reach 15-20 centimeters.

To ensure that there is no shortage of material, it is better to round all values ​​up.

Roof calculation

Metal roofing: waterproofing and vapor barrier

Before you begin installing metal tiles with your own hands, you should take care isolation . Protection internal spaces from liquid provided with layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing.

The waterproofing is located between the rafters and the counter-lattice and prevents moisture from entering the interior of the roofing pie. environment. The most common waterproof materials– these are polyethylene and reinforced films. They are stretched over the entire area of ​​the slope with slight sagging. It is important to ensure that the waterproofing does not overlap with the thermal insulation.

Roofing pie

Vapor barrier is a protective layer not letting in inner space roof moisture, formed in the premises. This is the lowest layer of the roofing pie; it is located under the rafters (to which it is attached) and thermal insulation, thereby ensuring its protection from condensation.

An attic roof made of metal tiles must have a high-quality vapor barrier; in cold roofs without insulation, installing a vapor barrier is not necessary.

Required tools and equipment

Covering a roof with metal tiles begins with preparing the necessary tools. To install a metal tile roof you will need:

• Screwdriver.
• Rail.
• Tin snips or other metal cutting devices, such as nibblers, Circular Saw etc.
• Construction stapler.
• Tape measure and marker.
• Components of the roof and roofing pie: tile sheets, self-tapping screws, hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation materials, beams for sheathing and rafters.

NOTE!

When working with tiles you can't use a grinder and other abrasives cutting tools, as this disrupts the structure of the sheet.

Fastening and laying metal tiles - step by step

How to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands? Self-tapping metal tiles with a gasket made of ethylene-propylene rubber, which provides waterproofing of the fastening areas.

If tiles are installed with hidden fastening, then galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened with optimal force.

If the fastening force is insufficient, then moisture will get under the cap and cause its corrosion. If you tighten the screws too tightly, the gasket will be deformed, which will break its tightness.

1. Before covering the roof with metal tiles, you should make sure that the sheathing is symmetrical and reliable.
2. Self-tapping screws screwed into the lower deflection of the tiles, they must enter strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheathing boards.
3. When connecting two overlaps fastening is carried out in wave rises using shortened screws.
4. Installation of tiles begins from the lower left corner of the slope, subsequent sheets are laid on top previous ones.
5. Self-tapping screws screwed into each wave of tiles along the perimeter of the slope and in a checkerboard pattern in the interior areas. If a screwdriver is used for this, then its rotational effect on the material must be minimized.

Metal tiles - DIY installation + instructions

Now you know how to lay metal tiles correctly and we invite you to familiarize yourself with the most important thing - instructions for installation of metal tiles.

Installation of metal tiles - step-by-step instructions

How to properly cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands? The first step is.

It is on it that all other roofing elements will be fixed. The system is constructed from wooden beams, wherein their size exceeds the dimensions of the sheathing bars.

The most important elements of the rafters are:

• Mauerlat. This is the fulcrum of the structure.
• Rafter legs. They hold on themselves and rely on the Mauerlat.
• Racks. Strengthen the support of the rafter legs.

The rafters are fastened to the wall using so-called tavern. These are strips of metal that connect two structures with nails or screws.

Next are installed main insulating layers: insulation, vapor and waterproofing. A waterproofing film or membrane is applied to the rafter system and fastened to it with a stapler. Thermal insulation is placed in cells, formed by the intersections of the rafter beams, and is fixed with the help of cords drawn crosswise in the lower plane of the rafters.

Installation of rafters

After completing the installation of protective structures, you can begin installing the sheathing, on which we will subsequently lay the roofing. She applied over rafters and waterproofing layer and is attached with self-tapping screws to these structures.

Installing metal tiles with your own hands:

1. A cornice strip is attached to the frontal board, providing roof protection from exposure to wind.
2. When performing work, the need to ensure good natural ventilation of the space is always taken into account. To do this you need to leave gaps between all layers of the roofing cake. The basis of natural ventilation is the possibility of free air circulation under the roof ridge.
3. The last step is installation of metal tiles. It must be taken into account that the sheets must protrude beyond the edges of the sheathing by 5 centimeters and aligned horizontally along the eaves line.
4. Ridge strip attached to additional two boards, which are installed at the joints of two slopes when installing the sheathing. Such measures are necessary to ensure additional resistance of an important structural element to negative influences.

metal tile laying diagram

• . They loosen the snow masses falling from the roof, making their fall relatively safe for building structures and for humans.
• Junction strips. These products frame the joints of tiles with all important structures, such as chimneys and ventilation pipes.
• Corners and valleys. They protect all corner roof structures.
• Low tides. Used to redirect flows of rain and melt water.

Additional elements

• Beam spacing rafter frame should be no more 60-90 centimeters, otherwise the roof structure may sag.
• When performing work, you must wear shoes soft sole and move along the tiles, stepping into its lower deflections. This will prevent the material from being pressed through.
• The absence of contact between protective layers is important not only to ensure ventilation, but to prevent them mechanical damage during friction.
• To provide additional ventilation, you can arrange dormer windows in the attic.
• For level installation of all elongated additional elements need to pull the thread and secure it between two already installed structures.

This is what the technology for laying metal tiles on a roof looks like. This material has an approximate service life about 50 years, but without the need for repair work, operation will only take place when correct execution installation

Useful video

Laying metal tiles with your own hands in video format: