Installation of the sheathing: without a base - nowhere. How to make lathing for panels, drywall, lining: diagrams, design, installation. What nails and screws are needed for counter-lattice

Properly executed lathing for corrugated sheeting is a guarantee of the strength and reliability of the roof

Recently, most builders and developers as roofing material choose corrugated sheets. This quality material, capable of protecting against precipitation, bacteria and fungi and preserving the building for a long time.

Installation of corrugated sheeting is quite simple, but it is very important to comply with all building codes and technologies. When laying corrugated sheets, the basis will be correct installation beams, rafter system and sheathing.

Wooden or metal beams. They should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. The basis for the roof is a curtain system consisting of:

Vertical racks;
Inclined struts;
Sloping rafter legs.

In the figure you can see the installation diagram of the sheathing

The rafters are installed at a distance of 60 to 80 cm from each other, taking into account the total load of the building at a certain angle of inclination. The rafters are made from dry wood coniferous species to eliminate possible deformation of the structure. The angle of inclination of the rafters in places with increased snowfall is 35-45 degrees. In areas with more moderate weather conditions, you can make a tilt angle of 20 degrees.

When installing corrugated sheets, special attention should be paid to the sheathing. It is a special design made taking into account the parameters of the roof, which will serve as a frame for corrugated sheeting. Metal elements and wooden beams are used as lathing. Only a correctly mounted frame will allow the roof to withstand increased wind and snow loads.

Types of roof sheathing

Most often used for industrial buildings metal frames or a sheathing made of metal elements. Roofing on industrial buildings, as a rule, does not have a large slope, but the spans are quite large, so the sheathing under the corrugated sheet must be strong and reliable in order to withstand heavy loads.

When constructing private houses, wooden sheathing is used, made of boards or timber treated with an antiseptic. Most often, boards measuring 25-30x100 mm are used. The sheathing is installed only after installation waterproofing material. It absorbs moisture from the thermal insulation side and prevents condensation that forms on the bottom surface. roofing sheet due to atmospheric fluctuations.

The sheathing can be:

With normal steps. To do this, a distance of 20 to 40 cm is maintained between the boards or bars. This type of sheathing is most often used under corrugated sheeting.
Continuous sheathing. The gap between the boards is 10 mm to avoid damage due to drying or swelling of the boards. Sometimes used as a continuous sheathing sheet materials: OSB, plywood or moisture-proof chipboard. This type of sheathing is most often used for small-piece materials, such as tiles or rolled bitumen coatings.
Sparse sheathing. In this case, the sheathing pitch is from 50 to 75 cm, and sometimes more.

The type of lathing depends on two parameters: what brand of corrugated sheeting is used, and what angle of inclination of the roof. For example, if the roof slope is 15 degrees, then for C10 corrugated sheeting you need to perform continuous sheathing, for corrugated sheet C21 - regular lathing with a pitch of 300 mm, and for corrugated sheet C 44 - sparse lathing with a pitch of 500 to 1000 mm.

To ensure maximum roof strength under heavy loads, you can install a two-layer sheathing. In the bottom row you can make sparse lathing, and in the top row - lathing with a regular step or continuous. The bottom row is parallel to the roof ridge, and the top row is perpendicular to it. A two-layer sheathing is also installed when laying a thick layer of insulation up to 100 mm thick. In this case, two bars measuring 50x50 mm are successively attached across the rafters.

Conventional sheathing is made from wooden beam sizes 50x50mm, 60x60mm or 75x75mm. You can make a regular sheathing from boards no more than 150 mm wide and 20 to 50 mm thick. It is very important that the width of the board does not exceed 15 cm, otherwise the wood is prone to increased deformation due to various temperatures and dampness.

Nails or screws are used to fasten the sheathing. In this case, their length should be equal to double the thickness of the sheathing. For example, if you use 50x50mm timber, then you should take fasteners 100 mm long. The sheathing is attached to each roof rafter. The timber and boards must not have any defects or protruding knots.

Installation of sheathing under corrugated sheets

First you need to mark the location of the beams or sheathing boards on the outer rafters. Then, along the entire slope, the places where the boards or beams are attached are measured. If a depression or bulge is found at the place where the beam or board is attached, it is removed by trimming or stuffing slats or roofing felt of the required thickness.

The laying of the sheathing begins from the ridge. The distance between the boards or bars of sheathing under corrugated sheeting should be at least 20 cm and no more than 40 cm. Wooden sheathing most often has to be spliced along the length because standard length lumber is usually less than the length of the slope. To do this, the edges of the spliced pieces are first fastened with nails, and then installed on the roof so that the joint of the timber falls on the rafters. In different horizontal rows, the joints should be offset. To do this, the boards are cut to a certain length.

Wind boards are installed at the ends of the roof. Their height should be greater than the sheathing by an amount equal to the height of the corrugated sheeting profile.

The corrugated sheeting is attached to the sheathing using zinc-coated self-tapping screws. A rubber washer is used as a spacer between them. For each square meter coating, at least 5 pieces of self-tapping screws are required. The sheets are connected to each other using rivets.

In order for the roof to serve for a long time, you need to determine its purpose in advance and carefully carry out everything necessary calculations and choose the right roofing material. When using corrugated sheeting, you need to remember that the greater the height of the profile, the greater the load it can withstand. In the construction of private houses, corrugated sheeting with a height of 35 mm and a thickness of 0.6-0.7 mm is used. Corrugated sheeting with a lower profile height is installed with a smaller sheathing pitch in order to ensure the required rigidity and strength of the roof. If the sheathing is installed correctly, the weight of the roof will be distributed evenly, it will be strong and will withstand all the vagaries of the weather.

If chimneys or various parapets pass through the roof, then a separate sheathing is installed under them. For chimney it should be located at a distance of at least 15 cm.

Video - do-it-yourself corrugated roof

Metal tiles are one of the most common roofing materials. Made mainly from thin steel(although there are types of metal tiles made of copper or aluminum), stamped in such a way that the finished product takes on the appearance of classic ceramic tiles, the use of which has been proven by centuries of experience.

The surface of each sheet is covered with a special protective layer polymer-metal coating that reliably protects the material from corrosion - the stated service life is 15-60 years. looks very solid and elegant. The weight of the material is approximately two times lower than that of slate, which makes it possible to use lightweight material and reduce the load on load-bearing elements

the buildings. If the installation is done correctly, no problems arise, although there are some disadvantages: relatively high price

, the possibility of corrosion, the risk of condensation and good sound conductivity - when it rains, the roof is quite noisy. When installing, these points must be taken into account and, if possible, try to mitigate the negative impact. In this article you will learn how to make a sheathing for metal tiles and how to correctly calculate the sheathing pitch.

Fastening the coating using self-tapping screws

How to properly make sheathing for metal tiles? We'll talk about this further.

Do-it-yourself installation of lathing under metal tiles The roof sheathing for metal tiles is carried out from the lower edge of the roof in a certain sequence. We present to your attention -

installation of lathing for metal tiles (step-by-step instructions).
, fastening it to the rafters using slats of the same thickness. They are usually cut from the same board that goes into the sheathing.
The outermost row of sheathing, which carries gutters and eaves strips, is attached to the slats. Installed next row
sheathing, the wave pitch is measured from the edge of the first row to the middle of the second. Subsequent rows are set with.
calculating the wave step from the center line of the board The installation of rows of sheathing alternates with the installation of a waterproofing film.
It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the insulation and seal the joints of the fabric with tape.
The junctions of the walls are reinforced with an additional row of planks. They are attached to them (ridge, corners, etc.). Constantly monitor the condition of the rows, avoid sagging, waves and other distortions

. If necessary, place slats and wedges under the boards to level the row.

Metal roofing pie

Important! It is necessary to constantly carry out all available operations to control the maintenance of the plane of the substrate; this will help eliminate deflections and increase the service life of the roof.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier of metal tiles Metal roofing is most dangerous due to the possibility of condensation. In this regard, no measures will be superfluous, since getting the rafter system and the roof itself wet short term Therefore, it is important to correctly carry out hydro- and vapor barrier of the roof.

The main condition will be the provision between the waterproofing film and the roof itself. This will allow moisture to evaporate, steam to escape through the membrane, and will contribute to preservation.

Air movement is ensured by the sheathing for metal tiles, which creates a sufficient gap between the layers and ensures that there are no points of contact.

CAREFULLY!

Waterproofing metal tiles is advisable even when non-residential attic, since from internal space At home, water vapor is constantly being squeezed out, which will gradually affect the roofing material. The presence of a cut-off will allow it to be removed without contact with metal, eliminating corrosion.

Useful video

We invite you to watch a thematic video on self-installation battens:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be noted the importance of competent and careful installation of sheathing under metal tiles as an element responsible for the safety and efficient work roofs in general. The quality of the sheathing determines the service life of the roof, and to some extent, the load on the walls and the general condition of the building. A responsible attitude to the installation of sheathing will allow you to avoid unnecessary costs of labor and money and guarantee the most efficient operation of the roof.

A lot of materials for interior decoration, which are presented in assortment construction stores, involve their installation on a pre-prepared sheathing. If you don't want to invite construction team, then do the lathing yourself. This is not a particularly complicated process, however, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of sheathing, without which final result the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

There are a number of possible lathing constructions and options for how to make them for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the sheathing, and then we will consider various ways its construction with indications of all the nuances.

Selecting material for interior sheathing

wood and metal sheathing

According to the type of material it can be formed:

Wooden sheathing;
Made from galvanized profile;
Plastic sheathing.

Metal

IN modern construction as the main material for forming the sheathing for interior work Most often, a galvanized profile is used, which was originally invented for attaching drywall. In this case, they are used U-shaped profile With various sizes and shape for various target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. The end of the CD profile is inserted into it, from which the sheathing actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for forming partitions and walls, so sheathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a whole range of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and connecting them, which greatly facilitates the assembly of sheathing of any complexity and shape.

Tree

A time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since average cost lathing made of wood is significantly lower than the same one made of galvanized profile. Timber and boards with dimensions varying within 25-50 mm are used. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum acceptable size that will allow you to securely fasten the cladding material and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly pliable material from which you can construct a sheathing for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for sheathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced by using special impregnations. However, risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden sheathing using ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for sheathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods for installing them can vary dramatically. The specifics of their installation should be clarified in the manufacturer's instructions.

General structure of the lathing

To create lathing in the general case it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. It is brought to the required level. After this, the intermediate elements are placed at a distance necessary to secure the sheathing elements. This is very important point, in which errors are not allowed.

To secure plasterboard sheets the distance of the sheathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is calculated from the middle of one crossbar to the middle of the other. Only in this case will it be possible to properly fasten the sheets end to end.

For sheathing with PVC, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the sheathing in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

In case it happens, the distance between the sheathing bars is sufficient to accommodate it. For example, when using strips or slabs mineral wool the distance should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the insulator. This will allow you to pack it tightly without gaps.

Taking into account these construction features, you can already decide on the required amount of base material and determine how much the sheathing costs.

If necessary, at the stage of forming the sheathing, distribution is carried out hidden wiring, various communications and elements additional equipment, such as warm floors, insulation, etc. In the case of forming a sheathing with a counter-lattice, the frame around the perimeter should be made at a certain height for both layers of timber.

Choosing the direction of the sheathing

There are several types of lathing:

vertical
horizontal
with counter-lattice

Choose suitable option of the first two is possible only by deciding on the location of the elements finishing material. The counter-lattice is formed, firstly, to ensure normal ventilation of the space under the cladding, and secondly, to position the thermal insulation layer. It is applicable only when wooden sheathing is installed.

For plasterboard sheets, the lathing should be placed vertically, with the condition that the plasterboard sheets themselves have the same direction. The rule here is that the sheet must be fastened evenly along its entire length. Otherwise, when using transverse lathing, you will have to fill it too thickly, which will significantly affect the cost of the entire structure.

For mounting various types materials consisting of individual panels or strips, such as PVC panels, lining or wooden slats, aluminum panels, etc., are used transverse lathing. This means that when horizontal position elements of the material, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

If necessary, form counter-lattice The outer layer of the sheathing is mounted according to the rules already described, and the bottom layer, which is directly attached to the base, is positioned perpendicularly.

Horizontal (transverse) lathing and counter lathing using the example of a roof. When working indoors, a counter-lattice is rarely required.

Type 1: wooden beam sheathing

Wooden beams and boards are indispensable in the case of, and are also suitable for lathing walls.

The following tools will be required for the work:

saw;

jigsaw (preferably);

hammer drill;

screwdriver, screwdriver;

chisel;

mallet, hammer;

tape measure, level, plumb lines, construction corner.

The materials required are directly the timber from which the sheathing is installed, a board for making substrates, a board for the frame, screws and dowels for mounting the timber to the base.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the place for installing the outer elements of the sheathing (frame). This is especially important in cases where only part of the surface will be occupied for finishing. The location of the beams or boards along the perimeter is especially carefully measured using a level and plumb lines, because subsequent elements can be oriented along the frame.

If the surface on which the sheathing is made is uneven, you will have to use backings for some of the beams or parts thereof so that the outer edges of the sheathing form a single plane in the level. For example, you can sharpen the beams or comb the base. The choice of option depends on the nature of the irregularities. If they are present throughout the wall or floor, then it is better to use substrates. To determine the distance at which the beams will be separated from the wall, you should determine the highest point on the surface and from there calculate the position of the frame beams. In this case, it is best to take another 2-3 mm margin for unevenness of the beams themselves, which will be used in the sheathing.

Having determined the direction of the first beam of the frame, and calculated required size substrates that are necessary, you can secure it with dowels and screws. The timber is secured with screws every 20-25 cm.

After the first beam, the rest are installed, which will form the perimeter of the sheathing. Everything is done with the derivation of a common plane and level. Window and door openings, as well as protruding parts of the walls, are lined around the perimeter with beams in order to securely fasten the edges of the cladding elements along their border.

Scheme of sheathing a wall on a balcony for cladding with clapboard or panels
After this, you can begin to install the intermediate beams. There is no need to rigidly connect the intermediate beams to the frame elements, especially if you are not sure that the wood is properly dried. In the case of rigid fastening, due to thermal deformation or due to changes in humidity, the position of the sheathing elements may be lost, which will affect both the appearance and the strength of the entire structure.
When using backings, you should secure the edges of the timber, checking the readings of the building level and plumb lines, and only after that start fastening in the middle, combing out the backings of the required thickness or placing the required number of prepared pieces.

All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing should be treated protective compounds with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will protect the material from rotting, fungi, absorption of excess moisture and reduce the risk of fire.

Video: example of installing wooden sheathing under plastic panels

Type 2: metal lathing (made of galvanized profile)

The following tools will be required:

metal scissors;

screwdriver;

level, plumb;

tape measure, construction corner;

hammer drill.

Most often, a galvanized profile is used when making sheathing for plasterboard, but it is also perfect for other sheathing materials. With the help of such a profile and all kinds of auxiliary fastenings, it is possible to sheath any surface. A galvanized profile is not suitable for forming sheathing on the floor; it is not strong enough for this. But the lathing on the ceiling is best and easiest to assemble from a profile, and not from a wooden beam.

In any case, all work begins with the installation of UD support profiles. They are fixed on the extreme sides perpendicular to the placement of the sheathing elements. All intermediate elements will be inserted with their ends inside this profile and attached to them. In addition to the two main guides, additional ones are installed parallel to the edges of the window and doorways, as well as along the perimeter of protruding elements that will not be sheathed.

The supporting metal profiles must be securely held to the base. To do this, fastening dowels are placed every 15-25 cm. As in the case of wooden sheathing, underlays may be needed if the surface of the base is uneven. It is extremely important to correctly determine the height of the substrates, because if you make a mistake or miscalculate, then when fixing the profile it will bend. After this it is no longer possible to level it.
Way metal sheathing walls based on CD60 profile

The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides with their ends at the edges and secured with screws. Special screws for galvanized profiles with a drill tip are best suited for this purpose. To add rigidity to the profile and the entire structure, you can additionally use mounting hangers. They are mainly used to secure profiles to the ceiling, but they are also suitable for walls. The edges of the hangers are bent at 90 degrees and secured in the places where the profile is installed. After installing the profile itself and securing it to the guides, the bent wings of the suspensions are screwed to it, cutting off their excess part, which protrudes above the profile. Before screwing, be sure to check the level of the entire profile, because the profile itself, although strong, still bends a little.

The roof is considered one of the foundations that ensures the comfort of a home and protection from negative impact atmospheric factors. That is why the process of its arrangement must be organized rationally and correctly, down to the smallest detail. It is obvious that the installation of roofing material must be carried out in full compliance with technical recommendations and SNIP requirements. Roof lathing and counter lathing are some of the essential elements, on which the reliability and quality of the equipped roof depends in the future.

One of them serves as the basis for installing the roofing material and creates a gap between the latter and the insulation layer, and with the help of the other they create additional ventilation ducts for the under-roof space. Therefore, the question “how to make a roof sheathing” does not lose its relevance. In essence, this structure is made of a series of boards nailed to rafter system, is an “intermediary” between the roof covering and the enclosing structures. Among other things, through it the roof load is evenly distributed over the supporting frame.

Types of lathing depending on roofing material

There are two types of lathing (formwork):
- sparse – used more often for sheet corrugated material, the minimum distance between battens is 40–50 mm. The material used is timber for sheathing with a section of 50 by 40–50 or boards: width 10–20 cm, thickness 2.5–3 cm.
- solid– made from tongue-and-groove boards (2.5x10 cm), and now more often from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB3, with a gap between parts of 1 cm. This type is mainly used for piece roofing materials.
As a rule, continuous formwork is performed as follows. They install the sparse formwork and make a second layer of formwork on it. There are two possible execution options here:
- They fill the sparse formwork by laying dry boards (preferably tongue-and-groove) close to one another. They should be located at an angle of 45° with respect to the first layer - thin formwork;
- on the first one, sheet materials, such as moisture-resistant plywood, are attached.
Thus, in order to lay the roof, it is necessary to make a special frame: first, repeating the pattern of the rafters, a counter-lattice is mounted, after which, already across them, the frame itself is nailed, on which the roofing covering is laid.

The structure of the frame is determined by the type of roof. For example, in the case of metal tiles, square bars (□ 50, □ 60) are used for installation, which are laid with a certain pitch. At the same time, a continuous flooring is made under the bituminous shingles or roll coating using waterproof plywood or thin boards.

These structural elements make it possible to make the roof covering from the selected material continuous and provide strength roofing structure.

How to make a roof sheathing, what board to use and what to fasten it with

The installation of the frame under the flooring is made from materials such as: timber, plywood, boards (preferably tongue-and-groove), planks (in the case of a solid version). When choosing lumber, it must be at least second grade and without a single knot. Use unedged boards or timber is not recommended, as this may affect the quality of the future roof structure. In extreme cases, their edges will need to be cut off.

To avoid warping, the maximum width of the boards should be 150 mm - using too wide ones can cause damage to the roof.

If the lumber is not dry enough, then over time the wood will dry out and the fasteners will weaken. All wooden elements load-bearing structure must go to mandatory antiseptic treatment that will protect them from damage by pests and rotting.

There is no such frame only in houses with flat roofs, For pitched roofs such a design is required. Moreover, the steeper the slope, the more, say, the sheathing gable roof, has a smaller step.

For normal operation and durability of the roofing structure, it is necessary to ensure a specific humidity regime. Since houses are usually heated, if the roof is not installed correctly warm air, coming from interior spaces, will settle in the under-roof space in the form of condensation.

Double lathing mansard roof practically lifts the covering above the insulation layer and provides ventilation in the under-roof space. That is, water vapor and atmospheric moisture that got there from the interior of the house will easily be blown out, and the structure will thus be protected from rotting.

Double flooring should not have
- gaps larger than 6 mm (if this is not the case, then the gaps are blocked using strips of roofing steel);
- should not sag from the weight of a person;
- the boards should butt together on the rafters and be staggered.
It is also important with what nails to nail the sheathing and how. They are hammered closer to the edges of the lumber, slightly recessing the caps into the wood. The length of the nails is chosen based on the calculation - twice as long as the thickness of the board being nailed. The consumption of nails for the sheathing is 10 pcs/m2.

Fastening the ridge ridge sheathing: features of the device

The gap between the roof slopes is covered by a ridge strip. You can prepare it yourself by cutting strips from galvanized sheet. When installing the ridge strip, take into account the direction of the wind: if it is usually on the left, then the ridge strip begins to be installed on the right. The overlap of its sheets should be 200 mm. They fasten it to the sheathing with roofing screws. For modern roofing materials, a special fastening of the ridge batten is also provided as an additional element, which is reliable and aesthetically pleasing.

Modern market building materials offers the widest range of roofing coverings, one of which is the most common.

In addition to aesthetic appearance and durability, the coating is durable, resistant to moisture, ultraviolet rays and other environmental influences.

The material is environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature fluctuations, fire-resistant and easy to install.

When installing a roof, an important role is played by the correct calculation of the frame pitch, which is determined by the wavelength of the metal tile. Errors in the calculation may result in a displacement of the entire load-bearing structure in relation to the place of optimal fastening of the roofing deck to the screws.

Calculation of sheathing pitch

Calculation of the distance between the frame bars for metal tiles is carried out as follows: The pitch of the frame depends on the variety.
roofing
The gap between the first pair of frame beams is always smaller than between the others.
The slope of the roof slope and the protrusion of the metal covering beyond the starting beam of the sheathing affect the interval between the planks.
The correct calculation of the interval between the first pair of bars is carried out by measuring the distance from highest point the first wave to the bottom of the place. To do this, place a 1.5 m long level on the rafter, measure it and make an appropriate mark. The standard transverse wave sizes are 30–45 cm, and it is recommended to choose the optimal step within this range.
Using the same level, determine the approximate position of the covering sheet by placing a triangular ruler to the front strip and marking the location of the point of the desired protrusion, the level is adjusted to this point.
The thickness of the starting strip should be greater than the others to avoid overhanging overhang during the installation of the roofing material.
The length of subsequent frame crossbars is measured from the top point of the second plank at an equal interval equal to the roof profile. Marks for the supporting structure are marked every two beams, this is due to the fact that it may be curved and will need to be adjusted by tensioning it according to the applied markers.
The calculation must be performed strictly from top to bottom, controlling the remaining length of the metal tile.

It should be noted that the frame pitch is also affected by the presence of a water drain and its configuration. If it is attached to the face beam, it will add 3-4 cm to the protrusion.

Required materials and tools

Lumber is used as material for the lathing structure:

pine;
fir;
larch.

The most suitable raw material is pine, which is durable, hard and easy to process.

To attach the roofing to the frame you will need:

timber with a section of 50x50 or 40x60 mm;
timber with a section of 30x1350 or 50x1370 mm (for counter-lattice);
board rectangular section 20–35 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

To install the frame you must have:

tape measure;
level;
triangular ruler;
felt-tip pen;
screwdriver;
hammer;
self-tapping screws, nails (the length should be 2 times the thickness of the timber);
tools for cutting beams (jigsaw, electric scissors, hacksaw);
ladder or wooden platform.

Sheathing device

Upon completion of all necessary calculations, selection necessary materials You can begin constructing the frame for the covering.

It should be taken into account that the sheathing is installed after laying waterproofing, which is performed so that the ventilation streams move freely from below under the roof ridge and are discharged outside.

If there is a waterproofing and thermal insulation layer for the roof installation, it is necessary to install a counter-lattice, which will improve the quality of the roof.

What is also important is that its arrangement makes it possible to correct errors made during the installation of rafters.

Installation of lathing under metal tiles

The technology for installing the frame is extremely simple and straightforward:

The starting board is attached strictly along the length eaves overhang in a straight line so that it does not protrude beyond the overhang. Its thickness should be 10-15 cm greater than the rest.
The second row is fastened in such a way that the wave step distance is smaller. Subsequent rows are at an equal wave step distance.
The beams are attached to the rafter system using self-tapping screws. The use of nails can lead to destruction of the wood structure and a reduction in service life. If the choice is made on nails, then you should choose slate nails large sizes. The sheathing should be secured to each rafter with two nails.
Attached to the bars edged board with a certain step (depending on the brand of coating).
On rafter beams install 2 more beams at a distance of no more than 5 cm from each other, which will serve as a support for the roof ridge.
In the locations of valleys, air ducts and windows, a solid sheathing is performed. With this type of frame, the beams on the rafters are placed parallel to the ridge.
A pair of boards located to each other in the opposite direction are fixed on the ridge.
When making lathing over thermal insulation, it is unacceptable to make a solid frame or with small gaps; this can disrupt the movement of air flow in the under-roof space and lead to the accumulation of moisture.
Before installing the roof deck on inner side the valleys secure the plank.

Features of the outermost row of sheathing

In the process of constructing the frame, you should pay attention to 3 important features extreme row:

The installation of the sheathing begins with attaching the eaves strip to the bottom of the rafters, which protects the edges of the frame from the damaging effects of precipitation.
The following elements of the structure will be aligned with this plank, so its installation requires special precision. To do this, measure the distance from the wall to the edges of the outer rafters; if there are discrepancies, they are aligned to the lowest value using a stretched thread, along which the length of other parts is adjusted. Fastening is carried out with nails in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 30 cm. Before installing the sheathing, in order to compensate for the difference with subsequent rows of the frame, the first row is made higher by one wave, which can fluctuate in the range of 2.8–7.5 cm. If the length of the protruding part of the plank is not enough to arrange the edge of the roof (40-50 cm) , lengthen rafter leg
possible with the help of a roofing filler. The extension must be aligned with the tensioned thread, after which the cornice can be attached. Through the first row of the frame, to ensure unhindered drainage of water and prevent film damage

, the edge is brought into the drain. For these purposes, in the upper part the rail is beveled to an angle of 120-140 degrees relative to the rafter leg.

Defects in sheathing for metal tiles

If the technology is violated, installing a frame under a metal coating may result in defects:
the fastening of the roofing material to the sheathing will not be strong;
the flooring sheets do not fit together;
in the process of attaching additional strips (cornice and pediment) difficulties often arise; rugosity sheet covering

stingray

Installation of metal tiles

Immediately before laying the roofing material, it is necessary to install the fastening holders for the gutter and the eaves strip.

Installation of brackets is carried out as follows: Fastening the outer support parts of the drain is necessary for installation correct angle
tilt to drain water in the proper direction. The first holder is fixed with self-tapping screws to the cornice strip and bent down. Using a level, set a mark for the holder of the lower end of the tray. For every 1
linear meter
tray, the slope should be 2–5 mm. The lower holder is attached according to the mark made.

The installation should be carried out in such a way that its lower part overlaps the edge of the gutter. If one strip is not enough, install another one with an overlap of 4-5 cm and fix it to the front and cornice strips with self-tapping screws in increments of 30–40 cm.
Double-sided tape is glued over the installed cornice strip and a waterproofing film is glued along its lower edge.

Upon completion of the preliminary work, they begin laying the flooring.

The technology for laying the material is as follows:

Installation of the flooring can be started from both the right and left edges. In the option from the right edge, due to the next sheet overlapping the final wave of the previous one, an overlay of sheets is created. Otherwise, the next sheet will be placed under the previously laid sheet. No matter which option is chosen, adequate roof covering is of utmost importance.
It is easiest to stack the sheets in one row. To avoid distortion, you should not immediately attach the material to the sheathing; first, do not attach the first sheet too tightly with one screw. Next, lay the next one next to it, level it and fix both sheets with threaded screws, without fixing them to the frame. The second pair of sheets are laid in the same way.
The resulting module of two pairs of connected sheets is aligned along the eaves ledge and then attached to the frame. This installation diagram metal tiles
Suitable only for short slopes. Often the flooring is covered with several stripes.
To do this, the first pair of sheets is combined into a module similar to the previous method, and the next sheet is placed above the first, the fourth - above the second. As a result, a module is created from two pairs of sheets, which, after centering is completed, is fixed to the sheathing.
The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the process of laying roofing on an inclined surface of a triangular configuration. The installation of tiles in this case begins from the center of the inclined surface.
The center lines of the slope and the first sheet of covering are connected. Subsequent installation is performed to the left and right of the starting sheet. To work, the sheets will have to be cut, this is the main difficulty. Marking is simplified by the tool
To cut a sheet using a dash, it is placed on the site, the tool is attached to it in such a way that the vertical board is placed on the bevel, and the horizontally laid boards are parallel to the eaves overhang. The marking line is drawn along outside the second vertical strip, after which the sheet is removed and cut along the line of the mark.

The wood for lathing should be well-dried and free of rot. If the board is dried insufficiently or improperly, after some time it may warp, which will negatively affect the quality of the frame. Humidity of all wooden elements used as a material during the construction of the frame should not be higher than 25%.
The thickness of the lumber must be the same, otherwise the roofing will lie unevenly. As a result, it is not recommended to use unedged boards, wood Low quality and with defects.
Before you start making the sheathing, all beams and boards must be treated with antiseptic mixtures that prevent rotting and ignition of the wood.
To avoid reducing the rigidity of the sheathing wood elements, making up the frame structure, cannot be connected on one rafter.
It is recommended to put an additional element of metal tiles on the board of the eaves overhang - an eaves corner, which will protect the wood from the effects of water flowing from the edges of the flooring.
In addition to using wood to make sheathing, you can use metallic profile, which is more resistant to moisture than wood. However, it should be noted that the frame and rafter system are made from the same material.
When laying metal tiles, the use of an angle grinder is strictly prohibited. When the material is heated, the protective barrier is destroyed. polymer coating, which subsequently leads to corrosion of the roofing.
If the polymer coating was damaged during the installation of the sheets, it is recommended to cover it with paint, which can be purchased at the same store as the rest of the material.
Metal shingles cannot be laid on either side, each sheet has a top and a bottom, so the laying method is strictly established.
If the sheathing is done using a lattice method, then the step between the boards cannot be arbitrary. It depends on the characteristics of the coating. Bending strength in different zones the sheet is different with the same thickness.
Most often, the construction pitch is maintained within 30–40 cm. For metal tiles with the Monterrey profile, the distance between the covering elements should be 35 cm.
When calculating the required amount of lumber for making a frame, experts recommend increasing the calculated figure by 10 percent for the reserve.