Interior of an extension to a house. Design of extensions to the house. Shed roof - design and technology

A frame extension to the main building is the easiest way to increase living space. In this way you can build living room, technical room or covered veranda. The main thing is to correctly connect the house and its extension.

Selection of foundation and expansion joint

You should initially decide what the extension will be used for. The way of joining the foundation, walls and roof with the old house will depend on this. This is key point, because with different types of structures they will shrink differently, which can lead to cracks and distortion of the walls of the extension.

If you are planning a living space, be it a kitchen or a bathroom, the extension to the frame house should be of the same type - made of the same materials, with a floor and walls of the same thickness as the main building. If the main foundation is strip, then the new one is joined rigidly, using driven reinforcement, and the formwork is installed close to the wall of the house.

This will allow you not to close the contour of the foundation and not organize expansion joint around the entire perimeter. But with a rigid connection, the foundation must be very stable and not sag. Therefore, it is recommended to compact the soil well under the cushion, and make the cushion itself reinforced and 15 cm wider than the foundation strip. In this case, it is better to use crushed stone rather than gravel.

If the weight of the extension and the building is very different, or a different type of foundation is chosen, it is necessary to organize an expansion joint. The extension can be made either in the shape of the letter P, without closing the contour, or by erecting all four walls.

In the first case, the expansion joint is made only at the junction of the house and the extension. This is the most convenient way to connect an extension with your own hands. If the finished foundation is level and strictly vertical, the expansion joint can be made using ordinary roofing felt - it will provide the possibility of vertical displacement of buildings.

Otherwise, it is better to use thicker and more elastic material - foamed polyethylene and expanded polystyrene. The smoother the foundation, the smaller the thickness of the expansion joint. The smooth side of the sheets is placed on the new foundation. The outer part of the seam is filled with sealant and covered with a flashing that is attached only to the existing wall.

A four-sided foundation is needed if there is a risk of strong displacement of the house and the extension - with significantly different weights, heaving soil or an unstable foundation. Then an expansion joint 1-2.5 cm wide is made between the two buildings along the entire perimeter. The walls and roof in this case should not be rigidly connected either.

Construction of walls and their connection to the house

If the house and the extension are on the same foundation and are framed, erecting walls will not be a problem. The section of the beams is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. For example, if a sheet of mineral wool is 15 cm thick, then the beams must be selected with the same cross-section of one of the sides. The main thing is not to confuse which side to attach them to the harness.

The walls are erected in the following order:

1. The lower frame is laid on the foundation. Between the wood and concrete you need to lay waterproofing - roofing felt or foamed polyethylene. The strapping is screwed on with ordinary dowels, and the corners are connected “in half a tree”.

2. If the extension is attached rigidly to the walls of the house, then vertical bars They are simply nailed to the walls, pre-leveled. If not, then corner posts are installed first, which can be fixed with temporary bevels.

It is better to make the connection between the strapping and the bars by completely cutting it out and additionally fixing it metal corners.

3. It is important to choose the right height of the vertical beams - will the extension be under common roof or under a separate one.

4. The upper harness allows you to strengthen the frame and remove temporary cuts. Bars top harness connect to the vertical ones in the same way as the bottom.

5. After this, you can choose a location for the windows and/or doors. Additional racks are attached along the width of the openings and horizontal lintels are nailed along the height of the window and door.

6. Vertical bars are added in increments of 1 cm smaller than the selected insulation - it should lie as tightly as possible. You can also add horizontal jumpers, which will strengthen the entire structure - the distance between them is also 1 cm less than the height of the insulation if it is supplied in sheets rather than rolls.

It is important to remember that when using laminated veneer lumber, windows and doors cannot be installed immediately. The structure may shrink. Sheathing assembled frame carried out after the roofing has been installed.

Sometimes the frame of an extension to a house is assembled separately, installing entire blocks on the bottom frame at once. This is very convenient for large structures - there is no need to fasten each vertical beam with temporary slopes and constantly work at height.

An expansion joint should be installed along the entire wall being added, if the foundation has a closed contour, or only at the junction of the walls of the house and the extension. The requirements for it are the same as for a foundation seam - an elastic seal is used inside, and the outer edge is treated with sealant.

The rafters of the extension are laid with the lower end on the upper frame, and the upper end is connected to the roof rafters or rests on a purlin nailed to the wall of the house. If the rafters are rigidly connected to the wall of the extension, the roof may not be able to withstand shrinkage and the upper fastenings will break off. Or the wall of the extension will begin to lean inward. Therefore, it is better to use movable joints to freely move the lower support.

For a roof with insulation, in addition to the horizontal lathing, a vertical counter-lattish is also made, as well as an additional lathing with inside. If metal tiles are used, they can be laid directly on the sheathing, and for soft tiles A moisture-resistant OSB board is mounted on the sheathing.

In the first case, the wall of the house is covered with a galvanized apron, bent at an angle and fixed on top of the roof of the extension. This will protect the wall from rain and roofing pie- from dampness.

In the second case, the roof will be common and will have to be completely re-roofed.

Wall cladding and insulation

After installing the roof, you can begin covering the walls. Despite the popular advice to first cover the walls with boards or OSB sheets for structural strength, doing this under the roof is much more convenient. First, the outside of the extension is sheathed.

If non-glued laminated timber was used, then windows and doors are installed at the same stage. It is better to order a double-glazed window ready-made - with a double chamber for better thermal insulation. If you plan to install a door, it is better to hang it right away. The second post is adjusted to the door. Installing windows and doors before insulation allows you to fit the horizontal lintels and racks as tightly as possible to the openings.

After the external cladding, insulation is laid and the extension is sheathed from the inside. You can use the same OSB boards, drywall or lining. At the same stage, the roof is insulated - waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier are laid under the sheathing. Additional sheathing and internal lining are mounted on top.

For a living space, it is necessary to insulate the extension from the outside as well. The easiest way is foam plastic boards, which are attached to the wall using foam and screwed with self-tapping screws.

To prevent the screws from falling into the foam, rectangular or round spacers are used. Another trick is to window slopes were smooth, the slabs are attached to the window frame with the side with factory cuts and with a slight overlap.

Door slopes can be damaged during operation, so it is better to screw a beam as thick as insulation around the perimeter of the door with self-tapping screws. The ebb on the window can be attached polyurethane foam, all the cracks are filled with it. After this, a reinforcing mesh and reinforcing mortar are laid on the foam plastic, and all corners are reinforced with metal corners.

Floor installation in a frame extension

The floor for a small extension on a strip foundation could be poured cement-sand screed. To do this, the entire perimeter inside the foundation was filled with brick rubble and compacted. You can lay tiles on top of such a floor - the best option for technical rooms.

If you are planning a living space, or a columnar foundation is chosen, it is best to install a wooden floor on joists.

For strip foundation the space under the floor should be insulated. The soil is selected to a depth of 25 cm and a layer of crushed stone is first poured into the resulting hole, compacted, a layer of sand is poured on top, moistened and compacted again. Place on the resulting pillow brick pillars– the logs will rest on them.

The advantage of flooring on joists is its multi-layer nature. Between the rough and finished floor there is a layer into which the insulation is laid. This allows you to create a truly warm floor that you don’t have to walk on with shoes on.

Featured in the video detailed review finished frame of an extension to the house:

A house extension project is a voluminous package of graphic, tabular, and text documents. The goal of developing working drawings and plans is to create a comfortable, convenient, strong, durable structure that will effectively perform its functions and look harmonious next to the main, old house.

During the operation of a mansion, cottage, or country house, situations often arise when it is necessary to expand the living space. The building can be supplemented with a utility block, boiler room, kitchen, living room or main room with other functions, as well as a veranda or terrace.

In this article we will talk about the main types of extensions to a house, the features of their construction, and give recommendations on the choice of building and finishing materials.

Purpose of the extension

The type of extension is determined based on its functional purpose and the wishes of the home owners. The building can be used year-round or only in the warm season, based on which buildings are divided into open and closed.

Summer extension

Open or summer ones include verandas and terraces. Their function is to organize a comfortable outdoor space for relaxation in the summer. Such buildings usually consist of the following structural elements:

• foundation;
• fencing around the perimeter of the site;
• lightweight canopy made of polycarbonate or dense awning fabric

Mandatory parts are the base and floors, and fencing and canopies are installed at the request of the home owners.

Full-fledged living space for year-round use

Closed buildings for year-round use are full-fledged premises. The project of residential extensions provides for the arrangement of a reliable, durable foundation, walls, roof, high-quality insulation on all sides, and installation of the necessary communications.

Designing a new premises

The goals of professional design of an extension to an old house:

• achieving external harmony of the main building and the attached premises. The architectural style of the house and the extension should be the same. The same or similar construction and finishing materials are used;
• obtaining a functional building in accordance with its purpose. Open terraces and verandas are equipped areas for leisure activities. In a residential building for year-round use, it is necessary to provide locations for heating, lighting fixtures. These features are reflected in the drawings and plans.

Kitchen or bathroom requires eyeliner engineering systems(sewage, water supply). For winter garden the project determines the types of window and door units with a large glazing area to ensure full natural light at any time of the year

In order for the building to serve for many years, at the stage of developing the project for extensions to the house, calculations are made to ensure the strength of all components of the structure. Factors such as:

• soil type;
• groundwater level;
• the presence of elevation differences on the construction site;
• type of construction;
• weight of selected construction and finishing materials.

Base design

The design process begins with specialists visiting the site and conducting a study of the foundation under the main building. For permanent buildings, the same type of foundation is usually chosen as that laid under the old house.

On moving soils, with high groundwater levels, and if there are significant elevation differences in the area, a pile foundation is installed. For it, metal piles are screwed in or monolithic pillars are erected from reinforcement and concrete mortar. Such a foundation can easily withstand one-story light-weight buildings built on a frame filled with sandwich panels or constructed of wood.

For brick buildings, a more powerful foundation is needed - a strip foundation with a large depth or a monolithic one, capable of supporting a heavy brick structure.

If the extension is planned to be used only in the warm season, as a place to relax, then the project provides for a base on low columns of blocks or bricks, which does not require significant digging into the soil.

To prevent the floor on the veranda or terrace from deteriorating from excess moisture, waterproofing is carried out on the foundation side. For flooring, it is recommended to select boards impregnated with special protective compounds, increasing resistance to moisture.

In projects for extensions to a house, the junction of the foundation of the main building and the completed structure is indicated. It is recommended to fasten the lower rim using the “tongue and groove” principle. This creates conditions for slight mobility of the lower rims of the structure, which avoids deformation of the structure during the period of shrinkage and seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Wall design

When adding to the main building, the same materials are usually used to build the walls. This creates an attractive appearance of the structure, a house with attached structure looks harmonious.

There are situations when, at the request of the owner and in accordance with the design concept, the extension can be built from a different material. TO brick house sometimes they add a closed, insulated veranda, a bathhouse or a kitchen made of timber, or a boiler room made of gas blocks.

The choice of material for construction is carried out during design in order to calculate the weight of the structure, determine the type of foundation for it, and the type of roof.

The main materials for the construction of extension walls are:

• brick;
• foam blocks;
• aerated concrete;
• wooden beam;
• sandwich panels.

Roof design

For a summer extension, two types of roofing are installed:

• stationary. Along the perimeter of the site they dig in metal pipes or wooden beams on which polycarbonate and corrugated sheets are mounted;
• temporary. A canopy made of fabric or garden mesh is installed

For an extension for year-round use, installation is carried out reliable roof from the same material that covers the roof of the house. In accordance with the design drawings, the roof is sloped in the direction opposite to the house to ensure water drainage. To prevent heat loss and water leakage through the roof, waterproofing and insulation are performed.

Projects of structures made of various materials

Frame extension

The lightest in weight, simplest to construct, and least expensive is the structure built using frame technology. A powerful deep foundation is not laid for it. A frame of wooden blocks is mounted on a strip or columnar foundation, between which insulated sip panels are installed.

Advantages and disadvantages of foam blocks and aerated concrete

Foam blocks and gas blocks are fairly lightweight materials. The construction of walls made of foam blocks and aerated concrete takes place quickly, without the use of special equipment, and requires relatively small investment. Walls made of foam blocks allow air to pass through and retain heat well.

Owners of foam concrete structures and aerated concrete buildings should be prepared for the appearance of small cracks on the walls during operation. Therefore, the working design necessarily provides for finishing work with outside foam concrete and gas blocks, insulation and finishing indoors.

Timber extensions

TO country houses, To country cottages and mansions quite often have premises made of wooden beam. The choice of material is due to its environmental safety, attractive appearance, strength and durability. Advantage wooden extension There is also no need to carry out finishing work, both indoors and outdoors.

Brick extension

Strength, reliability, durability are the main characteristics of a brick extension. Features include the weight of the structure, which requires the construction of a powerful foundation. More often this material is selected if a two-story building is being designed.

The disadvantages include the high estimated cost, but clients ordering such buildings are willing to pay for high-quality, warm, durable premises.

If you decide to add an addition to your mansion, cottage, country house additional living space, boiler room, bathhouse or equip open terrace, veranda, use the services of professional designers. Only specialists will be able to create an original design project, competently execute necessary calculations, guarantee the durability and reliability of the building.

The attached room will be comfortable at any time of the year, thanks to a well-thought-out heating and ventilation system. The extension will meet its functional purpose. During the construction of the extension, builders will comply with the requirements of the designers and use the most suitable materials and components.

A pre-compiled and thoughtful project for an extension to wooden house or a building made of another material with working drawings, plans, sketches will help save money on construction work and ensure the safety of the structure during operation.

Over time, almost every owner of a private home has a desire to enlarge their country house. And an excellent solution in this matter would be an extension to an existing house.

Construction work begins with drawing up a project, where it is necessary to clearly and clearly draw the plan of the planned facility, think through the connection of all the premises with the existing house, choose the type of structures, foundation and decide which building materials will be used. The financial costs of construction will depend on the correct development of the design stage. At this stage, it is also worth deciding on the nature of the use of this building, namely, whether it will be seasonal or year-round, and also decide how many storeys the new building will have.

There are several common types of extensions that can be classified according to their purpose.

Summer room (kitchen or veranda).

Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxation, etc. Of course, it is necessary to construct a light or shallow foundation, preferably independent from the main building of the house.

Such a structure usually has pitched roof(Fig. 1, 2). It is recommended to use metal tiles or polycarbonate as roofing materials. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that minimum angle the roof slope is 8°, you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after rain and snowfalls.

Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).

In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for constructing the foundation, erecting permanent walls and roofs, as well as installing waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, supply of all utilities.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, roof and floor, taking into account that the extension will be used in the cold season, and therefore heating.

Before starting construction, you need to consider the condition of the house. The pairing of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, there is a high probability that over time they will move relative to each other.

Another option for an extension to the house could be a separate building, closely adjacent to the main one., which quite often becomes the only possible

because of an old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will compromise the stability of the entire structure.

Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation. Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for an extension, which is connected to the base of the old house using embedded reinforcement.

Of course, a more correct option is common ground, which is laid down at the stage of building a house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worth ensuring maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and depth.

The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for the extension. The most common foundation in this regard today is a foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After screwing into the ground, the piles are combined into a single grillage by welding several metal channels or wooden beams. This results in a separate and independent foundation that will not be connected in any way to the main house, since existing foundation may continue its downward movement, which can lead to deformation of the structure.

In this case, the minimum possible distance is maintained between the two buildings, i.e. a technological gap that is filled with thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.

An extension to the house can be made using frame technology or from wooden beams (Fig. 5, 6).

Frame technology the most acceptable, since it is light in weight and consists of the construction of a frame made of wooden beams and filled with insulation. For example, these can be SIP panels, which in cross-section represent a three-layer “pie” of two load-bearing surfaces (usually OSB), between which foamed polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can select panels for any climatic region. In this case, no cladding is required additional materials, which will reduce construction costs.

It will be enough interior painting panels varnished. It is also worth saying that a timber extension to a wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth load-bearing one, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If planned winter accommodation, then it is worth using a material whose cross-section is at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200 mm.

This beam is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls are erected, the remaining cracks must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done using modern insulation based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.

Such projects are used to increase living space, improve the appearance and expand the basic functionality of the building. At the same time, it is extremely important to carefully study what a high-quality extension to a wooden house is. Projects should be designed taking into account the complexity of their implementation. To do this, you will have to familiarize yourself with the features of construction technologies. Using this article, accept correct solution it will be much easier. Go!

Read in the article

Extension to the house: options, photos of successful projects, formulation of general requirements

This photo clearly explains the convention of the name. A large extension to a wooden house can significantly improve the original technical and aesthetic characteristics. The main thing is that there are enough sizes for large-scale plans. Of course, we must not forget about the financial and time components of the project.

Something to remember! It is better to complete the construction of such structures in one warm season. Otherwise, there will be additional costs for winter conservation. Accurate planning will help you save money at several stages. In particular, wholesale purchases of the necessary basic and finishing materials will be useful.

To build an extension with your own hands, you need to realistically assess your own strengths. The most complex work operations can be entrusted to specialized specialists. But even in this case, your own knowledge will be useful for carefully monitoring the performers.

For your information! It is better to hire highly qualified professionals. Slave labor was abolished due to lack of efficiency. Involving relatives and other dubious helpers may result in unexpected additional costs of materials, time and money.

In any case, the target task should be correctly formulated in order to accurately create a set design documentation. The house extension projects discussed below will help you make the right decision. When studying in detail, pay attention to the nuances that are important to you. Remember that these examples can be used in various combinations to successfully meet individual needs.

A universal solution to various problems with the addition of a veranda to a wooden house

This standard definition allows for a precise grouping of different architectural structures. In this case we are talking about relatively lightweight design. Protection of an extension to a wooden house from adverse external influences is designed for the summer season. Full insulation is not provided here. However, raindrops and wind are prevented from entering.

How to add a garage to a house: features of technical premises

It is better to place the appropriate layers on the outside. This prevents the dew point from moving towards the room and prevents moisture from penetrating into the walls. In such places it is better to use foamed polymer boards, which do not need to be additionally protected from water.

The following table provides data that will help you make the correct calculation, taking into account temperature conditions in a specific region:

Use this information when selecting materials. The final cost of the project depends on many factors. Sometimes it is more profitable to make a large initial investment but reduce operating costs.

Important! The above examples can be applied in practice if a rigid connection of the foundations is ensured. Otherwise, the roof of the extension to a wooden house is made independent of the main structure.

Building an extension to the house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with important notes

Photo	How to add an extension to a house. Main stages of work with comments
	The basis of the project is an old house with slate roof. Entrance part consisted of a “dressing room”, which had dubious aesthetic and insufficient insulating characteristics.
	After inspecting the property, a decision was made to build an extension to the wooden house using frame technology. For this light one-story structure, it will be enough load capacity strip foundation.
	In accordance with the plan, they dig a trench and install	After pouring the building mixture, protruding parts (M12) should remain on the surface. They are useful for a rigid connection with the walls of an extension to a wooden house.
	It’s better to do it in one go to get a uniform support structure without seams or internal defects. At the junction with the house, a layer of waterproofing made from a sheet of roofing felt was installed.
	After the mixture has completely hardened, the formwork is carefully removed. Exact time depends on external temperature conditions, percentage and parameters of components.
	Please note that at the stage of preparation for pouring, special pipes are installed for subsequent installation electrical cables, water supply, other engineering networks. In this project, holes were made in all foundation walls for space under the wooden floor.
	Not only the contour is concreted, but also separate areas for mounting supports, a fireplace, and other heavy equipment. Apply similar technology with reinforcement.
	Through a layer of roofing felt, support boards are installed on the strip foundation. Their reliable fixation is ensured by anchors. Next, the ribs of the transverse joists are mounted.
	Install sewer pipes and others network engineering below floor level until free access to this space is blocked.
	Install the floor covering. In this project, the author used thick, moisture-resistant. It turned out durable level base. Mineral wool is installed between the lags, which is protected from water penetration by a film on both sides.
	The wall frame is installed sequentially. To maintain the vertical position of these elements, temporary supports are used.
	Here the walls are installed on all sides, which creates a closed contour of a full-fledged living space.
	On next stage installed truss structure. The photo shows that the author delayed the implementation of the project, so the installation had to be postponed to winter period. In this case we are talking only about unfavorable conditions to perform work operations. “Wet” technological processes were completed in a timely manner, during the warm season.
	A roof structure made of ondulin is installed, with a layer of waterproofing. Mineral wool mats are inserted into wall cells and covered with film. Outside secured vinyl siding. Inside there is a lining. Installation of window and door blocks. Finishing decorative finishing is performed at your own discretion.

Here we talk about how to make an extension to a house using a frame structure. When using other technologies, appropriate instructions must be used. Remember to make the necessary changes as the load on the foundation increases.

Selecting a construction team and the secrets of strict control

For better orientation in this segment of the service market, extensions to a wooden house with prices and general characteristics are given below:

If you are offered to build an extension to your house inexpensively, check the list of materials and work carefully. To check, use your own list of mandatory activities, which can be compiled based on the materials in this article. Check the cost of delivery, installation, finishing, garbage removal. This approach will eliminate any unpleasant surprises. You need to study the text of the contract in advance. If you encounter any difficulties, consult with an experienced lawyer.

Successful examples of extensions to a house: verandas and terraces, photos and comments

Thorough general analysis situation will help you make the right decision. Eliminate errors based on the incorrect statement “Money is everything!” The real benefits come to the person who makes his “little gray cells” work.

Even if there are no problems with financing, topical knowledge will be useful. They will help:

• choose the right project;
• formulate technical specifications;
• find the best basic and finishing materials;
• control work;
• argue for the need to correct shortcomings.

The information in this article will be useful for performing individual operations or an entire project. on our own. It is impossible to foresee all the problems encountered in practice within the framework of one publication. Ask additional questions in the comments. Connect with like-minded people experienced craftsmen and the authors of implemented ideas. This will make construction easier quality extension to a wooden house.

Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. How to do this efficiently and without extra costs, we'll tell you in the article.

Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be altered or completed, or added to the country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room at the dacha, then this is tantamount to the construction small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. The waterproofing of the floor covering requires increased attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.

The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer holiday, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.

The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

• it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
• does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
• without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
• will cost less.

The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this respect they compare favorably frame structures, which do not give vertical shrinkage.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For columnar foundation Extensions to the house use concrete, brick or a combination of both. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the utility lines entering the house will be required. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, compact it carefully, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little concrete mortar into each hole for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We use ordinary soil mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm, tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor

So, we stopped at frame version as the fastest and cheapest. In order for a tree to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing the most reliable means – bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The result is a binding of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

• costs much less than beams;
• It’s very easy to connect with each other, but with bars it’s more difficult.

We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. Rough base not necessary if you have edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two assembly technologies frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then ready-made designs are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.

The construction of the frame begins with corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be done simply and reliably using metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Support correct form The frame is helped by temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached. If the casing is made of hard and durable material like plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring arises in the case of soft material, we make sparse for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation material is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips required sizes. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. 2. Place insulation between the studs. We ensure a tight fit to wooden structures, the seams between separate elements We close the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. 3. We attach the vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
4. 4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.

All that remains is the interior and exterior decoration, which leaves room for the owner’s imagination. Frame extension it is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.