Water supply in the apartment: installation, replacement, installation, connection. Do-it-yourself pipe routing in the bathroom: we analyze the design and installation process Do-it-yourself plumbing work in the apartment

If you think that installing pipes in the bathroom is too complicated a process, then you are mistaken. Modern technologies have turned it into a system of fairly simple actions that are accessible to everyone, provided that you have the desire to do everything yourself.

Engineering Communication

To begin with, should you decide? what kind of plumbing fixtures and communications you will need in the bathroom (or combined bathroom):

• bath or shower with tray - it is necessary to connect cold and hot water and sewerage;
• washbasin - cold and hot water plus sewerage;
• toilet - cold water and sewerage;
• automatic washing machine - cold water and sewerage.

Now calculate the required number of valves that shut off the water:

• one common one for hot water - required,
• one common one for cold water – mandatory,
• on the supply cold water to an automatic washing machine - a must,
• on the cold water supply to the toilet - if desired (in case the tank starts leaking water, and you do not want to shut off the entire system).

Pipe layout diagram

Having decided on the number of plumbing fixtures that you are going to connect to the water supply and sewerage system, you should first purchase them. Decide where and what exactly will be located, marking their locations on the floor (so that the plumbing does not interfere, it is better to take it out of the bathroom after this, if possible).

Then take a piece of paper and draw a wiring diagram on it. Try to follow the following principles:

• intersections are undesirable,
• both water supply and sewerage should be laid as close to each other as possible, so that later they can be closed with a box,
• After installing the plumbing in its place, you should be able to easily reach the connections with flexible hoses.

Try not to complicate the pipework in the bathroom. Everything should be as simple as possible:

• the main pipes are laid along the bottom above the floor;
• water pipes run from them through tees perpendicularly upward;
• sewer outlets may not have a vertical part and only consist of a “tee” into which a flexible hose fits.

Water pipes

To assemble a system of polypropylene water pipes, you will need a special tool, colloquially called a “soldering iron.” There is no point in buying it for one-time work; it is much easier to rent it for a couple of days (this service is usually provided by specialized stores). Working with it is quite simple, but you should not forget that it gets very hot, so be careful and be sure to read the instructions if you are using it for the first time. You may even need an assistant at first who will hold the “soldering iron” while you heat the pipes and fittings, and then put it aside so that you don’t get burned.

To connect the pipes to each other, as well as to rotate them at the desired angle, you will need PVC fittings (they are sold in the same specialized stores). They are selected exactly according to the diameter of the pipes. They are not too expensive, so take them with a reserve of 1-2 pieces in case you cannot solder them smoothly on the first try.

Connections made with a soldering iron are permanent, and to redo them you will have to cut off the defective part. If the length turns out to be less than necessary, increase it using a “muff”.

To complete the wiring, you will need to connect “Americans” to the end outlets - these are fittings into which a pipe is soldered on one side, and a flexible hose is connected on the other through a thread.

Wiring in the bathroom can be done in two ways:

1. Moving from the outermost plumbing fixture towards the main water riser.
2. Soldering pipes, moving from the riser to the plumbing fixtures.

Sewer pipes

But when assembling sewer pipes, you don’t need a “soldering iron” - they are simply inserted into one another (either independently or using fittings). Assembly sewer system It’s quite easy and simple to do, and besides, it can always be disassembled and remade.

When doing wiring in the bathroom, the main thing is not to forget three basic principles:

• sewer pipes must have a slope from the plumbing fixture to the main riser (at least 3 centimeters in height per meter of length);
• pipes leading from the bath, shower, washing machine and washbasin should have a diameter of 50 mm; and the sewer line coming from the toilet is 110 mm;
• sewer pipes must be connected to each other in such a way that the smaller diameter is inserted into the fitting or pipe larger diameter, and not vice versa.

The routing of sewer pipes should always be as simple as possible. Try to connect all plumbing fixtures in series so that there are no “crossroads” in which a “clog” can occur when water is simultaneously drained from two appliances.

If you have any doubts that you can easily clean the sewer through the drain holes in the bathtub or washbasin, install an additional tee fitting on the sewer pipe, closing its upper hole with a special plug. Later, it is through it that you will clean the pipes. After you close everything with a box, do not forget to leave access to them for maintenance.

When connecting sewer pipes to each other, be sure to check that there are rubber gaskets at all joints (without them, the drainage will flow out and spread bad smell).

Pipes must be inserted into one another (or into a fitting) to the maximum possible depth.

To make the slope permanent, attach them to the walls using special clamps, thus fixing each section.

Video

For more information on how to make plumbing connections, see below:

Photo

The word "plumbing" is used quite often in Everyday life. This concept is quite comprehensive and applies to a wide range of equipment. Plumbing in a private house or apartment includes bathtubs, shower boxes, taps, bidets, shut-off valves, toilets, pipe products, siphons and other things related to sewerage and water supply, without which it is unthinkable comfortable life modern man. A private house, cottage or apartment is permeated with engineering systems. Plumbing and sewer networks are among the most important communications. This article is devoted to the main issues related to the plumbing of a private home.

How the plumbing works in a private house

Water pipes- this is the view engineering communications responsible for providing a private home with water. Its purpose is to organize stable transportation of water to water collection points. The operation of the water supply system of a private house is ensured by a set of functional equipment: these are pumping stations, storage tanks, filters, circulation pumps, etc.

No less important systems in a private home are sewers providing removal of sewage and used water resources with subsequent cleaning.

Internal engineering systems of a private house

Water delivery and sewage disposal are carried out through pipelines using plumbing and special equipment, which are located inside a private house. The place where water enters and drains exit is usually located in the foundation of the building.

Plumbing that ensures the operation of the water supply inside a private house:

water supply entry point;

water metering and distribution unit;

plumbing for heating water (boiler or boiler);

pipelines for supplying cold and hot water to points of consumption in a private home;

water supplies to main places of consumption;

water supply plumbing (faucets, shower, sink, etc.).

Internal sewerage plumbing:

pipelines from places of water consumption;

sewer riser;

point of sewerage exit from a private house.

External water supply and sewerage system

Plumbing for external networks of a private house:

external pipelines;

sewer wells (inspection, rotary, filtration, inspection, etc.);

cleaning systems;

well, well or other structure for collecting water;

pump or pumping station.

To organize the water supply system of a private home, the following types of pumps are used:

submersible - devices that are immersed in a well or well below the water surface;

surface – devices used to equip pumping stations located on the surface;

fecal – devices designed for pumping liquids containing particles of a certain fraction.

House water supply and sewerage project

Reliability of plumbing and utility networks The design of a private house largely depends on the professionalism of the designers. The calculation of the water supply and sewerage project is carried out before the construction or reconstruction of the house begins. There are often examples when design work carried out by developers on our own. If for small dacha With a simple network and uncomplicated plumbing, this option can take place, then for a private house with a modern layout, design work should be carried out by engineers who are well acquainted with modern technologies and plumbing innovations. The simplest engineering communications project for a private house involves the location of the kitchen adjacent to the bathroom, in which a common sewer riser can be used.

For a private house with several bathrooms located on different floors, you will need a more complex system with different risers.

To draw up an engineering project for the plumbing of a private house, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures.

Determine the source of water supply. For a private country house in places where there is no possibility of connecting to a centralized water supply, water can be taken from a well, equipped well, or nearby reservoirs.

Draw up an engineering topographic plan of the site, and also analyze the composition of soils and the depth of groundwater.

Determine the volumes of water that need to be supplied per day and the amount of waste water to be discharged. These calculations are required for the right choice engineering plumbing of a private house.

Determine which treatment plant will be used to supply water to a private home. The most preferable option is to install ready-made septic tanks, which are produced by various manufacturers. In some cases, due to the characteristics of the site and the groundwater level, it may be necessary to install local treatment or install a storage septic tank.

After completing the procedures described above, specialists select necessary equipment and engineering plumbing for a private home, and also make up a detailed design of water supply and sewerage systems.

Plumbing in a private house: laying diagram

There are several ways to carry out plumbing in a private home. Wherein different schemes connections are based on uniform design principles.

1. Water supply diagram in a private house

Regardless of the chosen water supply scheme in a private home and the plumbing used, there are two main options for connecting distribution points:

serial method of connecting consumers;

parallel method of connecting plumbing for water consumption.

Daisy chain circuit used for arranging a small private house with a small number of water consumption points. According to its principles, water from the water intake source flows to one plumbing device and then goes to another (i.e., the pump supplies water to the accumulator, then to the sink, and then to the toilet, bathroom, etc.).

When using this scheme to supply water to several types of plumbing fixtures, a significant drop in pressure is observed at devices located at the end points. Arrangement serial system water supply is simple. A tee with one inlet and two outlets is mounted on the pipe that fits the water consumption device (one supplies water to the required plumbing fixtures, and the other to the next equipment).

Parallel circuit connecting the water supply system of a private house necessarily contains such type of equipment as a collector, from which water is supplied separately to each element of the plumbing fixtures of consumption.

Serial and parallel schemes for connecting the plumbing of a private house can be used both when connecting to a centralized water supply system, and when supplying water from autonomous sources.

The standard water supply system for a private home includes the following elements.

Water intake point (central water supply or autonomous sources).

Pumping equipment (for autonomous sources).

Hydraulic accumulator for storing certain volumes of water.

Plumbing for water purification. After the water accumulator, a tee with shut-off plumbing is installed, providing water supply to private houses, and for watering plants and trees personal plot. Filtration plumbing is installed at the outlet that supplies water to household water intake devices.

Behind the filtration plumbing, it is necessary to install another tee with shut-off plumbing, which will divide the system into hot and cold water circuits.

The cold water pipe must be connected to the appropriate manifold. This element of plumbing must be equipped with shut-off valves at all outlets.

The hot water supply pipework must supply water to the boiler or boiler.

After the water heater, hot water is supplied to a manifold equipped with shut-off valves at all outlets. From its outlets, water flows to the hot water plumbing.

Plumbing systems in a private home may contain a wide range of plumbing fixtures and auxiliary equipment – pumping automation, water meters, pressure sensors, etc.

You should take care of how to install plumbing in a private home at the stage of choosing a building project. To reduce the length of the pipeline, it is better to locate water consumption points in one part of the building. This solution will not only reduce the cost of purchasing pipes, installing water supply and sewerage, but will also simplify utility networks, minimize the number of connections, and reduce the likelihood of malfunctions during operation. If you decide to independently draw up a diagram of the placement of plumbing in a private house, it must be drawn on the building plan or on graph paper. The stages of drawing up utility network diagrams are as follows.

At the beginning of drawing up the layout of the plumbing of a private house, the intake and drain points are marked on the plan. The plan is drawn up separately for each floor of the building.

After marking the consumption/drainage points, the location of the common riser is indicated on the plumbing layout plan. For the riser and toilet outlets, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a pipe with a diameter of 11 cm. The length of the outlet in the area from the collector to the toilet must be more than one meter. The drain points are located as close as possible to the riser. At the same time, the larger the outlet of the drain points, the smaller the distance to the riser should be.

The next stage involves drawing on the plan the placement points of plumbing fixtures and collector pipeline lines that lead to the exit point from a private house. It is installed in the foundation of the building and involves the installation of a protective sleeve in the form of a large diameter pipe.

Then you need to draw lines for laying drains from the water intake points to the collector. Bends that are in close proximity to each other (for example, sink and bathtub bends) must be combined. This rule does not apply to taps of such plumbing fixtures as a toilet, the drain of which must be installed separately from other taps.

The sewer system of a private house should be designed with a pipe slope of 3% for pipelines with a diameter of 5 cm and 2% for pipes with a diameter of 11 cm.

The next stage of drawing up a plumbing diagram for a private house involves marking the location of the drain pipe.

The drawing up of a plumbing placement plan is completed by drawing a line external sewerage of a private house, which is applied taking into account the features of the landscape, the location of adjacent buildings and trees. If external communications are of considerable length, inspection wells must be installed every 10 m. Such elements should also be placed at turning points sewer pipe, as well as in places where other lines are inserted.

How to install plumbing in a private home

Installation of water pipes

After drawing up a layout diagram for the plumbing of a private house, you can proceed to the direct installation of utilities. Ready-made installation diagrams must contain not only the exact coordinates of the placement of pipes, fittings, and plumbing elements, but also their dimensional parameters. It should be taken into account that incorrect selection of pipeline diameters reduces the efficiency of utility networks. To install plumbing, the master must have the skills to read engineering drawings. Installation of plumbing in a private house is carried out after completion of the construction of the frame and arrangement of the roof.

Rules for performing work on installing plumbing in a private home:

the entry point of the pipe for supplying water to a private house is placed at a distance of at least 1.5 m from the exit point of the sewerage system, gas main or heating network;

Immediately behind the wall where the water entry point is located, you need to set up a water metering point. It is better to combine this unit with a piping that provides the ability to supply an increased volume of water (this may be necessary when extinguishing fires and in other cases);

departmental shut-off valves are placed before the water metering unit, and after it an in-house shut-off valve is installed;

the diameter of water pipes is calculated taking into account the planned volumes of water consumption and the number of plumbing elements for water consumption;

pad internal pipeline and sewerage of a private house is most often carried out in the basement;

for long-distance water supply systems of a private house, it is necessary to provide for the installation of three circulation pumps, two of which are necessary to ensure water supply at minimum and peak water consumption, and the third serves as backup equipment;

The slope angle of the internal water supply of a private house depends on the diameter of the pipes and is indicated in the plumbing layout diagram.

Installation of an external sewer system

Rules for arranging external elements of water supply and sewerage of a private house:

laying of pipes in the ground should be carried out at a depth exceeding the freezing point;

when sewer pipes intersect with water pipes, the latter are laid above the sewer pipes by at least 0.4 m. To protect cast iron and plastic pipes to protect against mechanical deformation, special casings made of durable steel are installed at the intersection points. The length of such a casing should exceed 10 m (in each direction) for sandy soils and 5 m for clay-based soils;

pipeline intersections must be designed at an angle of 90 degrees;

when laying water supply and sewerage systems in parallel, the distance between the outer walls of pipes with a diameter of up to 20 cm should be more than 1.5 m.

Installation of internal and external utilities in a private home is a complex process, the success of which largely depends on a professionally drawn up plumbing diagram. For the normal and safe functioning of the water supply or sewerage system, it is necessary to strictly comply with the requirements of SNiP.

DIY plumbing in a private house

It's worth starting with the water supply, since the availability of water is necessary already at the stage of construction of a private house. In this case, you need to think first of all about ensuring the supply of cold water. You can also install a heating boiler, the installation of which is a simple procedure.

To install the water supply system of a private home, you need plumbing fixtures, materials and tools:

shut-off plumbing;

PVC pipes;

pump equipment;

a set of keys;

pliers;

• Bulgarian.

Before installing plumbing in a private home, you need to determine what types of plumbing equipment will be installed. Let's consider general rules and installation sequence.

As mentioned above, at the initial stage a plan for the placement of plumbing and water supply elements should be developed. The diagram must include information about all the external and internal distribution points of the water supply system of a private house. Based on the parameters of the water supply, you need to select the optimal equipment for arranging a pumping station. Manufacturers of such equipment include an installation diagram indicating the main features of connecting to the water supply of a private house. The pumping unit must be placed in such a way as to minimize noise from its operation. To do this, select the most comfortable spot in the house (in the basement or basement). In the documentation for the pumping station you can find information about the noise level that is created during its operation.

Once a location has been selected pumping equipment, you can begin arranging trenches for laying external pipes through which water from the source will be supplied to the house. Their depth must exceed the freezing level of the soil. If it is not technically possible to lay a pipeline at such a distance, it is necessary to insulate the pipeline using special fiberglass materials.

After arranging the external part of the water supply system of a private house and installing pumping plumbing, installation is carried out internal pipes. This is very important stage, which must be carried out with strict adherence to the technology for performing the work. When the installation of water pipes is completed, specialists move on to installing plumbing and installing a sewer system.

Let's consider installing a sewer system for a private home. Here also before execution installation work An engineering diagram of the system is drawn up indicating the locations of plumbing fixtures. A professionally drawn up sewerage plan will eliminate installation difficulties and problems during operation.

The sewerage system of a private house includes external and internal systems. External installation elements include sewer pipes and cleaning systems. Interior also consists of the pipeline and plumbing of a private house.

Rules for installing sewerage in a private house:

when choosing a location cesspool it is necessary to provide for the possibility of unhindered access to it by sewage transport;

the lowest line of the cesspool is located one meter deeper than the soil freezing level. The sewage collector is installed on a slope and must have a depth of more than 70 cm.

In situations where it is not possible to lay sewer pipes below the freezing level, the collector is insulated.

Plastic pipes are currently used to install the sewer system of a private house. Unlike metal products, such a pipe will not experience problems with corrosion. Installation of these elements of a private house is carried out by inserting one pipe into another and then sealing the seams. Laying of sewer pipes is carried out in strict accordance with preliminary calculations of depth. This will allow the pipeline to be laid on undisturbed hard ground, which will prevent the elements from bending. Pipes for risers and collectors must be larger in diameter than sewer pipelines coming from plumbing of a private house.

To carry out work on arranging sewerage systems in a private house, experienced and highly qualified specialists should be involved. The work itself on installing and connecting plumbing is carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of building regulations according to the drawn up diagram. Only experienced specialists who perform work under engineering supervision can satisfy such parameters.

What is the cost of plumbing work in a private home?

When starting to install the engineering systems of a private home, renovating bathrooms, installing bathtubs and other plumbing fixtures, customers are primarily interested in the cost of the work. To draw up an estimate, a free surveyor will visit the site. The table presented to your attention on this page shows the estimated prices for installation of plumbing in a private home. The final estimate depends on the choice of contractor for these works.

The higher the qualifications of the specialists who install plumbing in a private home, the more reliable the operation of the engineering systems will be and the more comfortable the stay will be. The main task of plumbing is to create the most convenient conditions for the operation of sewerage and water supply systems. Plumbing has long ceased to be a luxury and is an essential item in a private home. At the same time, nothing is eternal. Like all the equipment we know, it also needs periodic maintenance and repair. Performing such operations is always associated with the purchase of materials, selection of components, and repair kits.

You can order such products of guaranteed quality at manufacturer prices in the catalog presented on the official website of the specialized company SantechStandard. The portal developers took care of creating the most convenient conditions for finding the right products. Here you can profitably buy water pipes made of polypropylene or metal-plastic, various fittings, shut-off valves, faucets and other plumbing fixtures with delivery.

You can get qualified advice and place an order by calling:

The old water supply in the apartment has rotted. Sweat on the pipes, fistula after fistula; turn off the water and then turn it on again - rust pours out of the taps. And there are plans to renovate the kitchen and bathroom, and the old pipes are scary to look at, let alone touch or breathe. It needs to be changed, but the work is expensive. Is it possible to replace the apartment water supply with your own hands? Yes, you can, and without any permits or registrations. You will only need to negotiate with the DEZ mechanic to shut off the water supply to the risers for a maximum of an hour; Most likely, you will be able to handle it in about 10 minutes. Or warn your neighbors, if not harmful, and shut it off/restart it yourself.

Replacement procedure

Replacement of the water supply system is carried out in a certain sequence. Work “by eye” and “as you go” when done unprofessionally often ends in a leak. The work plan is something like this:

1. Selection of material for new pipes.
2. Selecting a hot and cold water distribution scheme.
3. Development of a water supply scheme for an apartment.
4. Calculation of pipe diameter according to the selected material and design.
5. Preparing the installation tool.
6. Purchase of materials.
7. Assembling sampling and accounting units, installing them on risers and registering.
8. Dismantling old pipes and plumbing fixtures.
9. Connection of HMS and aquastop, if provided.
10. Connecting a flask filter (required with HMS).
11. Installation of hot and cold water pipes.
12. Installation and connection of plumbing, old or new.
13. Test water supply; elimination of identified defects.
14. Installation and connection of the boiler.

HMS, flask filter and aquastop

The HMS, or hydromagnetic system, has long been used in industry to prepare water for filtration. In everyday life, this device, without going into details, transforms impurities in water into a thin suspension, which then settles in the filter in the form of sludge and is periodically removed. HMS is absolutely harmless, does not require power supply or maintenance during operation, but it does require the installation of an antimagnetic water meter (these are more expensive) and, following the water flow, a combined flask filter.

The flask filter consists of three sections connected in series: the first collects sludge, the second removes chlorine, and the third carries out fine water purification and softening. The latter (no one drinks tap water for a long time) is especially important for the boiler of a washing machine.

HMS with flasks cost a lot, but they protect not only equipment, but also health. Complain or not, be indignant - don’t be indignant, but drinking water remains firmly in the top ten most scarce resources in the world, and there are no global programs capable of bringing its quality to the level of at least the middle of the last century, and are not expected. In general, saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.

Aquastop is also a useful device, it also does not require power supply or maintenance, but its function is different. When there is a sharp increase in current (breakthrough) of water, the aquastop is triggered and its valve cuts off the entire apartment from the riser. There are aquastops different systems, including electrodynamic ones, so an antimagnetic counter is also needed when installing an aquastop.

Pipe selection

A new water supply system in an apartment begins with the selection of pipes. Steel has outlived its usefulness in everyday life, and you have to choose from metal-plastic, plastic and soldered copper. This stage of work is perhaps the most critical - the wrong choice will negate all efforts, expenses and hassle.

Copper

One thing you can say right away about copper water pipes is that their promoters don’t know what they’re talking about. Or they know, but don’t set it for themselves. Firstly, copper oxide forms on copper in contact with water - the same verdigris that Tom Sawyer talked about to Huckleberry Finn. Yes, humans need copper, but in insignificant quantities in the form of a microelement, and not as part of a strong poison. As a counterargument, they say that copper with chlorine forms from water protective film. Absurd for anyone who even remembers school chemistry.

Secondly, copper solder contains tin. White tin, a soft metal, over time turns into another, as chemists say, allotropic modification - gray tin, friable powder. That is, by installing copper pipes (very expensive), we thereby 100% guarantee leakage. And payment for the work of a company specializing in copper pipes, since it is impossible to solder them correctly yourself.

Metal-plastic

Metal-plastic pipes are quite expensive, but you can connect them with your own hands without experience. Metal-plastic water supply assembled on special threaded units with gaskets or crimp fittings. In addition, metal-plastic pipes can be smoothly bent. Hydrodynamic resistance and pressure losses in metal-plastic are very small.

To insert a pipe into a fitting, you need a pipe cutter, press pliers and a set of reamers (reamers) for the diameter of the pipes. With their help, the work is easy, and using improvised means is a complete guarantee of leakage. In addition, the life of gaskets in fittings is limited, and over time the joint begins to drip. Therefore, it is unacceptable to bury metal-plastic in walls, and it is strongly recommended not to hide it in grooves.

It is recommended to install metal-plastic water pipes in separate open areas, where minimal resistance to water flow and the ability to simply and quickly repair the joint are important: when connecting a boiler, washing machine, sink, etc. Adapters from metal-plastic to other types of pipes are always on sale.

Plastic

Plastic apartment water supply has now become a standard, but there are different plastics. To make the right choice, you need to know their properties and features.

Polybutylene (PB)

Flexible plastic with good thermal conductivity for plastic. Maintains temperature up to 90 degrees. A properly soldered joint is absolutely reliable. Quite expensive. Used for installing heated floors.

Polyethylene (PE)

Cheap, but for hot water supply you need polyethylene reinforced pipes; ordinary polyethylene no longer holds 60 degrees. It is impossible to bend and glue, the soldered joint reliably holds a pressure of no more than 3.5 atm, and the water pressure in the city water supply can be up to 6 atm (0.6 Mbar) for cold water and 4.5 atm for hot water, so there is still the possibility of a sudden breakthrough. Hydraulic resistance, however, is the least of all.

It seems like everyone is bad polyethylene pipes, but they have an advantage that may be worth all their shortcomings: they are not afraid of freezing. The ice plug bursts them apart, and when it melts, they shrink again and don’t burst, even if you crack. Therefore, the installation of polyethylene water supply is strongly recommended in unheated, seasonal and underground areas. There is no alternative to polyethylene. But with a constantly filled system, an aquastop is necessary.

PVC

The properties of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are quite well known: chemically resistant, inexpensive, heat resistant up to 80 degrees, easy to glue, but not very durable and afraid of ultraviolet radiation. Joints, both soldered and glued, are more fragile than solid material, so the danger of a breakthrough remains and aquastop is needed. Replacing individual sections of glued PVC is, of course, more difficult than for collapsible metal-plastic, but easier than for soldered joints: by heating the joint with a household hairdryer, the joint can be pulled apart and then glued back together. In general, this is a budget option or for a novice craftsman, with the length of the main branch from the riser to the farthest water collection point no more than 10 m and with no more than 7 extraction points.

Propylene (PP)

Laying residential water supply pipes with polyisopropylene pipes (propylene) is now generally accepted. The material is not very expensive, durable, resistant, soldered joints retain all the qualities of the base, heat resistance - up to 130 degrees, correctly soldered holds up to 12 at. The hydraulic resistance is higher than that of PVC, but still the accumulation of plaque in the lumen is minimal, and with HMS it is excluded. Disadvantages when independent execution just two:

• It does not glue, and soldering requires special equipment and strict adherence to technology.
• It has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion. A tile walled up in a wall or hidden in a groove can bend and break, so when laying each pipe you need to put on a stocking made of Merylon or synthetic padding, which makes the work more expensive.

However, today the propylene pipeline is the only one that can be done once and for all and forgotten.

Therefore, we will dwell on the soldering of propylene separately, especially since the soldering of other plastics differs only in lower temperatures (110-130 degrees for polyethylene and about 150 for PVC).

Soldering propylene

1. Soldering cut end-to-end with a homemade soldering iron (iron) (see figure on the right) is unacceptable:
2. Contaminants accumulate on the “sausage” inside, and a pipeline assembled in this way is more susceptible to clogging than a steel one.

The water pressure, pushing the pipes apart, tends to break the joint. At 16 degrees in the pipe and 20-25 outside, after about three months the fatigue threshold of the material is exceeded, and the joint leaks.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The fairly high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades. Note:

• a more or less decent soldering iron for propylene costs at least 2000 rubles. and is not suitable for anything else, but does not wear out from work. Therefore, there is no need to buy it; it is better to rent it.
• For hidden wiring in a typical apartment, in grooves or monolithic, it is definitely propylene.
• For long branches with a large number of water points - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers. For country houses , seasonal housing for rent, country houses
• For long branches with a large number of water points - open metal-plastic or in channels with removable covers. with remote outbuildings, greenhouses, etc. – polyethylene. budget renovation

or in areas with water shortages, low pressure in the water supply, with poor quality water - PVC.

Wiring diagram

Comb collectors

In this case, water collection is done according to a parallel circuit from the “comb” collector, see Fig. A comb is an assembly of bypass valves, from each of which there is a solid branch to its own disassembly point. Valves regulate pressure separately at points. The branches on the points are made of metal-plastic or polyethylene: in this case, their low hydraulic resistance plays a role, and when laid in one piece they are quite reliable.

Development of a water collection scheme

You need a water supply diagram in an apartment first of all for yourself, so as not to get confused, not to miscalculate and then to know exactly where everything is - no special permission is required for this work. But when registering the meter, the water utility inspector may ask to look at the diagram, so you need to draw it correctly.

A complete scheme according to all the rules - serious work and for knowledgeable specialist; for example - in the large picture there is a diagram of the water supply of a private house with summer kitchen necessary for the project to be approved. But to replace pipes in an apartment, you don’t need to bother so much; it’s enough that the diagram is clearly visible and understandable:

1. Hot and cold water pipes, their type and lumen diameter.
2. Metering devices.
3. Emergency valves and drains.
4. Shut-off valves.
5. Parsing points indicating consumers.
6. Backup branches and devices.
7. Direction of water flow.

In order for all this to be clear not only to yourself, or to yourself a year later, certain rules must be followed when drawing. Let's look at examples, see Fig. On the left - more or less ok, but with some comments, on the right - incorrect:

• The diagram on the right is made in isometry - for beauty, or what? The intersections of the pipes confuse her, and she does not give an idea of ​​​​the actual location of the analysis points: the washing machine and the boiler come out under the floor.
• There are also too many arrows indicating current where it is already clear where it flows, which also confuses the diagram.
• In the same place, shut-off valves with metering devices are depicted unclearly and not according to the rules.
• There, the type and diameter of the pipes are not indicated.
• In the same place - who, where and when saw that water was supplied to the boiler from above, and the toilet was flushed through the low tide?
• But in the diagram on the left, it is clear even to a non-specialist that the boiler (6) is a backup one. The comment will be: “Where is the check valve when it’s hot? Without it, when the supply stops, the boiler will drive itself into a hot riser if valve (10) is not closed.” But this is essentially the case and with full understanding.

Correct simplified diagram of plumbing in an apartment

An example of an arbitrary, not according to the rules for drawing up design documentation, but a completely clear and no-nonsense water collection scheme is shown in the following figure. This is also an example of parallel water withdrawal; where the combs are, it’s clear.

Pipe calculation

Before you finally select the pipes, you need to calculate at least approximately their diameter. This is not needed for “smartness” - the narrower the pipe, the cheaper it is, on the one hand. On the other hand, too small a diameter of the water supply pipe will cause turbulence of the flow in it. Wherein throughput pipe falls sharply, and when normal pressure at the inlet the tap will barely ooze.

Accurate calculation of the pipeline is a matter for highly qualified specialists, but for a city apartment, so that it flows normally, you can figure it out yourself. The initial data is:

1. The minimum permissible pressure is 0.3 at.
2. Pressure loss per 1 m of 16 mm propylene pipe – 0.05 at.
3. The average pressure loss per unit of fittings and fittings for apartment wiring is 0.15 at.
4. Pressure loss in the sampling and metering unit – 0.25 at.
5. At normal pressure values ​​at the entrance to the riser of 1.5-4.5 atm in a 12 mm pipe, periodic turbulization is inevitable, but in 16 mm pipes it is not observed.
6. The headroom for the farthest point is at least twofold.

It remains to find out the pressure (pressure) at the inlet, and you can determine whether, with sequential wiring, such a popular pipe will have enough pressure for the farthest tap or whether you will have to take a wider and more expensive one. The pressure at the bottom of the riser can be obtained from a pressure gauge in the basement or from the building operator; then subtract 0.6 atm per floor. You can also estimate the neighbors based on the same 0.6 atm/floor: if, say, three floors up the taps are still flowing, then we have a good 2 atm. But in high-rise buildings this trick does not work: in order not to increase the cost of apartment wiring excessively, they make separate risers for the lower and upper floors and even for the lower, middle and upper floors.

Calculation example: second floor of a nine-story building; Residents of the upper floors do not complain about the water. We have at least 4 atm of pressure. 11 units of fittings (5 tees, 6 elbows, 1 valve) give 1.65 atm losses. The length of the pipe from the riser to the far wall of the kitchen is 6.5 m, which is another 0.325 atm of loss. In total, with the selection and accounting unit, we have 0.325 + 1.65 + 0.25 = 2.225 atm losses. This is too much, you need to check the pressure with a pressure gauge and, most likely, take a main pipe of 20-25 mm, or route it in a parallel pattern from the comb, otherwise you may remain “dry” in the dry summer weather.

The assembly of the propylene pipeline is carried out using fittings for soldering - straight (for connecting pipe sections), corners, tees, crosses. The pipe, heated to the point of softening, is inserted into the ferrule of the also heated fitting, and the joint hardens. In this case, the water pressure, on the contrary, presses the pipe against the holder from the inside, providing strength, and only sealing is left to the fused zone. The fairly high rigidity of propylene does not allow the clamp enclosing the pipe to expand elastically. It is this connection design, combined with the properties of the material, that makes the propylene pipeline suitable for walling into walls for decades. from here it is clear how important it is to straighten the pipes and how undesirable it is to lengthen them and clutter them with fittings.

The dependence of losses in pipes and fittings is nonlinear: they depend on the flow speed, which, in turn, depends on the cross-section of the pipe lumen. A slight increase in the diameter of the pipe sharply reduces losses, so the usual wiring for apartments with a 20 mm pipe with bends to 16 mm points works well in most cases. In difficult cases, an accurate calculation can be made according to SNiP, internal water supply and sewerage systems of buildings. There are all the necessary formulas and nomograms; the calculation can be done by a person with an engineering education of any profile.

You just need to keep in mind that in this regard there are already three SNiPs with the same index: 2.04.01-85, 2.04.01-85 (2000) and 2.04.01-85 * “(Domestic water supply and drainage systems in buildings) " The correct one is the latest SNiP.

Tools, materials, dismantling old

Special tools for assembling residential pipelines are described above. To purchase materials, of course, you will need to calculate the footage, nomenclature and quantity locally. Dismantling old pipes is done in the usual ways. It is better to do this after installing and registering the water meter, so as not to turn off water to the floors for a long time.

We will give only one piece of advice: do not use valves with a lever. It is made of silumin or plastic and tends to break off at the most inopportune moment, just when you urgently need to close it. Take ball valves with a butterfly handle. The round, grooved handles also do not break, but wet or sweaty hands slip on them.

Accounting and control

The sampling and accounting unit consists of a shut-off valve, a coarse filter, a water meter and check valve. Assembled as shown in the picture. Each device indicates the direction of water flow for it; it must be observed during assembly.

The unit is assembled with waterproofing of the connections using FUM tape and is also connected to the riser, having first shut off the water; Before supplying water, you must remember to close the shut-off valve. This is the only operation, and a short-term one, that requires turning off the water supply to the neighbors on the riser.

Separate meter units are needed for cold and hot water. It is highly desirable that the counters and valve handles be highlighted in color. Meter readings must be clearly readable without any additional operations (removing the hatch, etc.), so it is often necessary to pre-assemble part of a solid pipeline, sometimes in a rather bizarre configuration, to connect the metering devices to the riser. In addition to pipes and a soldering iron, for this you will need transition couplings from plastic to metal MPV - an internal threaded coupling. The plastic is connected to the metering units using MRN - external threaded couplings.

Meters are sold sealed, but this does not mean that you can immediately call the water utility and pay for water according to consumption. The factory seal is there (the Russian land is rich in craftsmen) so that no one can get into the meter and twist or file anything there. The factory seal must be protected; Without it, the meter is considered unusable, as well as without a certificate for it.

To install water meters, you need to notify the water utility and call its inspector. You can use water before he arrives; the inspector does not need zero readings; he will record the initial ones and seal the meter and filter drain with his seal. Payment for water according to consumption will be made after registration of metering devices.

GMS, aquastop, filter

Although the design of the HMS is non-separable and does not allow water to be stolen with its help, and this device is not subject to sealing, connecting the HMS to the meter is unacceptable: the meter’s turbine can become clogged with sludge. The HMS with a bulb filter is connected after the metering devices; filter - immediately after the GMS. Aquastop can be connected immediately after the filter, but if it is electrodynamic, the magnetic field of the HMS can cause its false operation, but there is no point in placing the aquastop far from the riser: it does not react to a breakthrough before it.

Video: overview of layout options for water supply elements

Pipeline installation

So, now we're doing the plumbing. The assembly of pipes has already been described, but the installation of the entire system also has features of a non-construction nature, such as the arrangement of channels in the screed. The latter should extend no further than 150 mm from the wall and no closer than 200 mm to the furniture. Plumbing fixtures, of course, are removed before pipe laying begins.

First of all, you need to install the arcs - plastic strips with MRV elbows for mixers. They are attached to the main wall with self-tapping screws and dowels. When fastening, you need to take into account the thickness of the finish: plaster and tile or other decorative coating.

Without having much construction experience, it is very difficult to achieve the location of the outlet pipes flush with the wall. It is better to make them in advance PROTECTING above the finished wall by half the width of the side of the decorative faucet caps: if the caps are non-adjustable, they can be easily adjusted using an emery wheel or manually on an emery block.

The next point is the assembly of pipeline sections. The most convenient way is to assemble them on a table and place them entirely in grooves. But then the question arises: how to install pipes through the walls? There are no problems with metal-plastic, it is all made of detachable fittings, and for soldered pipes two methods can be proposed:

• Using MPH/MRV adapters and metal-plastic inserts. In an apartment this is quite reliable, and in the corners above the grooves you can make removable hatches for inspection and repair of threaded connections.
• Install pipelines locally. For this you need a compact soldering iron. This one is more expensive, and you need to work with cotton gloves so as not to accidentally get burned.

The fourth point is soldering. One soldering requires 15 mm of pipe. That is, if there is exactly 1 m between two fittings, you need to cut 1030 mm; if 0.6 m - 630 mm, etc.

Fifth point - bending metal-plastic pipes. The minimum permissible bending radius is 5 outer diameters of the pipe. You can come across recommendations: they say, put a spring in there, fill it with sand, and you can bend it at an angle, and pull out the spring and pick out the sand with a wire hook. In no case: the coating of the pipe deteriorates, the residual stresses in it far exceed the permissible ones, and the metal-plastic pipe acquires the properties of a very poor, rusted steel pipe.

And finally... This is a separate production cycle, and it is done after the water supply system is put into operation. The pipes for the boiler are made in advance, but the valves on them (they are definitely needed on both) are closed immediately after installing the pipes, and the pipes are additionally plugged.

Video: example of an installed water supply system

Bottom line

Now you know how to make your own plumbing. Let us emphasize that this work is not difficult or difficult, but it does not tolerate negligence or hackwork.

Repairing a bathroom or toilet often involves replacing plumbing equipment, as well as pipes. The procedure is very responsible and quite complicated. However, you should not rush and call a plumber: it is quite possible to correctly carry out the wiring and install the selected equipment with your own hands. In this case, a certain amount will be saved, which will not be superfluous for family budget. However, in order for the result of the work to be only pleasing, you should get acquainted with the stages of plumbing work.

We are planning upcoming works

Repairs should begin with careful planning of upcoming events. - one of essential elements, forming the sewerage and water supply system. The functionality of the structure largely depends on how well it is planned and executed. During the planning stage, several important factors need to be determined.

Selecting a pipeline installation method

Pipe laying can be done in a closed or open way. Both of these schemes are, in principle, equally reliable. They differ in the features of operation and maintenance. Outdoor installation involves installing pipes on top of walls or floors. If desired, they can be hidden using various decorative designs. The main advantage is the easy accessibility of communications. If it is necessary to connect new elements, service or repair, there will be no need to destroy decorative coating, hiding the pipes. In addition, the slightest leak or other problem will immediately become obvious and promptly eliminated.

When laying hidden, pipes are mounted directly into the wall, which is certainly more aesthetically pleasing. However, maintenance and repair of communications is very difficult. As well as inspecting parts for leaks or other problems. For hidden installation, it is advisable to install sensors that will report water leaks. In any case, in order to gain access to the pipeline, you will have to open the wall, which is the biggest disadvantage of this type of installation.

The open version of pipe routing is the easiest to implement, maintain and repair. If desired, the unsightly appearance can be covered with decorative accessories.

You may be interested in our material, which compares tee and collector wiring diagrams:

The importance of pipe material

Experience shows that the easiest way to do it yourself is to use polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes. These are reliable, lightweight parts that can be easily processed and are quite easy to install. To make connections metal-plastic structures are used different types fittings or crimp couplings installed using special pliers. Due to the fact that special installation equipment is not required, metal-plastic can be installed even in the most inaccessible places.

Metal-plastic pipes can be connected using fittings or crimp couplings. In the second case, special pliers will be needed for installation.

The connection of polypropylene pipes is made in the form of a welding seam. To work, you will need a special device, which is best rented or borrowed from friends. This point must be taken into account when choosing pipes, since in hard-to-reach places it will be almost impossible to connect polypropylene elements. An additional argument for choosing polypropylene will be the ability to easily fix an unsuccessful joint, which is very valuable for a novice plumber.

Wiring diagram design

You can choose a water pipe routing scheme from two options: tee or manifold. The second is considered the most practical and convenient. He assumes that when installing plumbing in a bathroom or toilet room, each device will be connected separately, which significantly reduces pressure drops in the system and allows repairs to be carried out without disconnecting the pipeline. The option is characterized by extreme ease of installation and a minimum of connections, but is more expensive than a tee circuit. It is somewhat more difficult to implement. When assembling it, experts recommend installing a shut-off valve on each of the branches from the main system so as not to shut off the entire structure in the event of a breakdown.

The result of the planning will be a layout of plumbing equipment and pipe routing. It is carried out after accurate measurements of the room and the devices that will be installed in it. With the help of such a plan, it will be much easier to determine all the necessary parts and their quantity, as well as to prevent possible misunderstandings with the output of installation angles during the installation of equipment. It is a good idea to number each part of the wiring in the order in which the assembly will be carried out. You can also make a list of all elements indicating the type of connections and the length of the fragments.

An example of a pipe layout diagram. When making a similar drawing yourself, for ease of installation, it is best to number all the elements and indicate their dimensions

Everyone faces the need to repair their apartment. And when the decision is made to carry it out in the bathroom, you cannot do without replacing the pipes. And if the owner of the apartment wants to significantly transform the design of the bathroom or make any other fundamental changes, then installing the plumbing for the bathroom with your own hands is inevitable. It just doesn’t hurt to first purchase the material, prepare the tools, and take into account some good advice.

This stage is the most important, as it involves drawing up a plan that shows the arrangement of all the plumbing. This allows you to assess the entire scope of work ahead and select the necessary materials. The comfort of the room and the ease of use of each element of the piping system depend on how correctly the pipework in the bathroom is done.

First, you need to create a drawing where you indicate the number and location of all plumbing fixtures: how many sinks are installed (if the bathroom is large), is there a shower stall, a washing machine, is there a faucet for the bathtub. This will allow you to determine the number of pipes and fittings. If the toilet is divided into two rooms, then the wiring must be done by hand in both parts of the bathroom at the same time.

After drawing up a visual plan for the bathroom, you can proceed to its implementation. No particular difficulties are foreseen here, since wiring can be done in only two ways:

• open;
• closed.

Open piping

Hidden pipe routing. After plastering the walls, such piping in the bathroom will not be visible to the eye.

The open method involves the location of communications in the bathroom with outside. From an aesthetic point of view, everything does not look very attractive, even if the pipes run close to the floor. Do-it-yourself hidden installation is better in this regard, since all communications are hidden from view, which does not spoil the overall design. There is only back side– it takes a lot of effort and time.

Wiring diagram

• sequential;
• collector

Collector wiring

Daisy chain wiring

These two schemes are the most common. In addition to them, others are used, but extremely rarely. Therefore, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the first two options. The essence of the sequential method is that the installation of the pipeline with your own hands occurs in stages. As the name suggests, plumbing fixtures are connected in series. There is just one point to consider. When using several plumbing fixtures at the same time, the water will be distributed unevenly.

The use of a collector is rational in order to distribute water evenly among all devices. In this scheme, each water intake point has its own separate section of the pipeline. And a tap installed near each device allows repair work to be carried out without shutting down the entire system. It is difficult to make collector wiring yourself; it will take a lot consumables, which will invariably entail large financial costs.

Which pipes are suitable?

Today, pipes used for plumbing in the bathroom can be made from materials such as:

• stainless steel;
• copper;
• metal-plastic;
• polypropylene;
• cross-linked polyethylene.

Types of pipes

Most people prefer to use pipes made of polypropylene or plastic. A metal-plastic pipeline is suitable for hot water. And if you take into account the service life, then a heated towel rail made of steel is better in this regard than a brass one.

Modern sewer pipes are made of plastic with different thicknesses walls and different diameters

Steel pipes are used extremely rarely, since installing them yourself is difficult and they are expensive. Copper pipes have high corrosion resistance and strength. But installing such a pipeline yourself requires the use of special equipment.

Metal-plastic pipes are already better, as they resist corrosion well, are quite flexible, but nevertheless reliable. Such pipes should be connected using special fittings, which are expensive. If the wiring is done incorrectly, this can lead to pipe delamination.

Metal-plastic pipes are the most popular

Polypropylene pipes have their disadvantages. One of them is a high coefficient of thermal expansion. Many advantages from previous materials have been absorbed by cross-linked polyethylene pipes. But there are also significant disadvantages - the high cost and the need to use an expensive special tool.

Laying out water pipes

Regardless of what kind of installation is carried out and the choice of type of pipe routing, the main thing is to avoid a large number of bends in the pipeline and connecting nodes. Installation should begin by installing the control valve. Everyone knows perfectly well that water from the central water main is not the most best quality. Therefore, it is worth considering installing an additional coarse filter, which usually comes immediately after the valve.

Pipe routing

Next, the collector is installed if this wiring diagram is selected. The collector can have from 2 to 4 outputs. If necessary, several collectors can be combined into one system; it is only important to install a control valve at each output. When choosing a sequential circuit, the devices are connected to the water supply using tees.

If desired, you can install a counter and a filter for fine water purification.

Example of pipe routing

In some cases, you may encounter excess pressure in the water main. In this case, you cannot do without installing an appropriate gearbox and preferably with a pressure gauge. This will allow you to set optimal parameters for the functioning of the plumbing system. Usually it is 3-4 atm.

According to the existing diagram, you need to cut the pipes, taking into account the fact that some part of each pipe will be inserted into the fitting. In the end it remains to solder polypropylene pipes and fix them on the wall in the chosen way.

Sewerage layout

Work must begin with the most difficult section - the riser. Cast iron pipe replaced plastic product the same diameter. You need to start installing the riser by installing a tee. First you need to place a rubber cuff at the entrance and apply a layer of sealant, and then install the cross. Then it is attached to the riser a drain pipe downhill When fastening, it is advisable to use clamps.

Finally, perform a test run to check for leaks. Their absence means that the work was done efficiently.

Correct sewerage layout

Sewerage installation in a private house

Plumbing installation

If the bathroom is quite spacious, then the order of installation is not important. Otherwise you should start with large appliances(bath, shower). Before proceeding to pipe routing, you need to complete a series of preparatory work: dismantle all old plumbing and prepare surfaces. If necessary, tiles are removed not only from the walls, but also from the floor. After the surfaces are freed from cladding, they should be thoroughly cleaned.

If you plan to do it in the bathroom suspended ceiling, which is preferable for of this premises, then on at this stage the frame is being built.

Then the pipes are marked and laid out in accordance with the plan drawn up in advance. And only after that you can move on to finishing surfaces and installation of devices.

https://youtu.be/8jOI8k-KkUk

Sinks

In fact, installing a sink is not complicated; it all comes down to basic steps. It can be mounted on brackets or on a pedestal. The first case is the most common, although many people prefer the second option.

Sink installation

Bracket - in order to properly strengthen the sink using this method, it is necessary to mark it. Typically, the washbasin is usually located at a height of 80-85 cm from the floor. From this mark you need to measure a distance equal to the thickness of the wall mounting of the sink. The brackets will extend to this length.

Next, you should attach the brackets to the wall and determine what distance will be between them, making the appropriate notes. Holes for dowels are drilled along them and brackets are screwed in. After this, you can install the sink on the mountings. If everything is done correctly, the washbasin will not wobble. Now all that remains is to connect the siphon to the washbasin, and then install and connect the mixer.

Pedestal or cabinet - in this case, the sink can be supported on a tulip (leg) or it comes complete with a cabinet. You can also use brackets to hold the plumbing fixtures, but you can also make sure that the sink is held on the cabinet itself. Before installing the cabinet, you also need to mark the floor and wall.

Then you need to drill holes for the dowels according to the marks. Next, the sink is screwed to the wall using spacer washers and nuts. They should not be over-tightened, as the shell may crack. If necessary, a pedestal or cabinet can also be fixed to the floor. Finally, all that remains is to install the siphon and mixer.

Installing a tulip sink

Upon completion of all work, all connections should be checked for leaks. If a leak is detected, they should be treated with sealant.

Baths

Bathroom installation begins with disassembly old plumbing. If necessary, lower the platform so that the bathtub stands level. Before installation, please read the instructions carefully. The first step is to install legs or special stands, which are usually included in the package. If they are missing, they can be replaced with bricks.

Now you can connect the siphon with a sump to the tee according to the instructions. It is better to seal the connecting places with sealant to ensure better tightness. If you need to install a mixer.

Experts recommend grounding the bathtub for added safety! To increase the comfort of using the bathtub, its front part can be decorated. To do this, you can make brickwork or install special blinds.

Bath installation steps

toilet

Before installing the toilet, turn off the cold water supply and check the sewer inlet. It is worth noting that you should choose a toilet depending on the location of the sewer pipe. The receiver can be located in different ways:

• vertical;
• horizontally;
• obliquely

The main stages of installing a toilet

Based on this, you should choose a model with an appropriate collector output. While working, you can cover the hole with a rag to eliminate any unpleasant odor. Having put the plumbing in place, make markings for the holes for plastic stoppers, having previously docked with the outlet pipe. Before attaching the toilet, it is advisable to apply silicone to its sole. Next, secure the plumbing fixtures with bolts and plastic washers, but do not tighten too much, otherwise the sole may crack. Allow the silicone to dry completely (4 hours is enough) and install cistern, securing it with screws, and then connecting a flexible hose to it. Now you can close the tank and check its operation.