At what temperature can onion sets be planted? When to plant onion sets in open ground - important growing rules. What onions can be planted before winter

Pre-winter is a time of cold nights, fallen leaves and the first frost. And it’s time to plant onions. When to plant winter onions and how - advice from an agronomist: timing, patterns and sowing rates.

Help for the owner and farms, summer residents and farmers: soil preparation, fertilization, mistakes and rules.

Why winter onions and why in the fall?

Onion sets are small onions that grow in the first year after sowing the seeds. In essence, this is the seed of the first reproduction.

Despite the diameter of about 1 cm, the seedlings have enormous potential: early shoots, all the qualities of the parent material without loss.

Winter onion sets for planting, or how to grow turnips from wild oats: secrets of agronomists.

Planting onion sets in the fall is the key to an early harvest, a powerful feather and a large turnip size. And also - the seedlings are free from diseases and practically not damaged by pests.

Productivity of onion sets: 30-45 kg/m2 on irrigated areas, on rainfed areas (without artificial irrigation) up to 20 kg/m2.

Winter onions are planted from sets in the fall for many reasons:

• harvest after feather lodging is 1.5 times earlier compared to those planted in spring;
• plantings are not damaged by pests at the height of summer;
• early bunched greens for sale and onions with trimmed feathers - at the end of April-May or at the beginning of June, the bulbs are suitable for sampling at the end of May-June, beginning of July, adjusted for the region;
• bow sets cannot be shot;
• productivity at the level of spring sowing.

Important: when planting small sets, shoots do not form; planting large ones will result in shoots.

About timing: when to plant winter onions

Before stable frosts, the onions should take root, but before they have time, the first frost will destroy the seedlings. When to plant winter onions - planting dates differ depending on different regions. The following factors will be decisive:

Planting dates for winter onions - guidelines:

1. Planting time is from mid-September to mid-October, depending on the region.
2. Temperature – up to stable +5 °C.
3. Until the onset of stable frost - up to 20-30 days.

Thus, in the Moscow region, winter onions are planted until November 15; in warm years, risk-loving gardeners plant them until the 20th. At temperatures below -15 °C, and even more so in winters with little snow, it is advisable to cover the plantings.
In the Urals they are planted earlier for 2-3 weeks: in mid-September to early October.

Important! Early boarding reduces winter hardiness, late - promotes bolting.

The deadline is popularly considered to be the Intercession - October 14th. Agronomists advise planting inclusively in the second ten days of the month, until October 20, depending on the year.

When to plant winter onions according to the lunar calendar

For those who respect the lunar calendar: the planting dates for winter onions according to the lunar calendar in the fall of 2018 are September 27-28. For those who did not have time, landing 6 or 7, as well as 25 of the calendar, will be successful.

Those who like to have time at the last moment will have to focus on November 2, 3, 22, 30 - and take risks: these deadlines.

Preparation of planting material

Planting material can be soaked in a weak solution of manganese or any fungicide like Fundazol can be used. If the material is healthy upon visual inspection, when planting summer cottage the event may not be held.

Preparing onion sets for planting before winter: calibration is a delicate matter.

In industrial production, the seeds are heated at 40 °C (24 hours) to prevent powdery mildew, as well as to prevent inhibition of the growth of embryonic flower shoots.

Summer residents sort by hand, farms use sorting winnowing machines - SLS-7A, bulkhead tables SPL-6.

Planting material is popularly divided into the following categories:

• wild oatmeal – diameter less than 1 cm;
• sets – diameter 1-3 cm;
• sample – more than 3 cm.

Sampling is more often used for feather forcing, because the bow shoots. Smaller fractions are suitable for autumn planting of turnips.

On industrial sites the calibration is different:

Bulb diameter for small-space varieties:

• Class I – 0.7-1.4 cm;
• Class II – 1.5-2.2 cm;
• III class – up to 3 cm.

For multi-nest varieties– respectively 1.5-2.2 cm, 2.3-3 cm, 3.1-3.5 cm.

Important! In more early dates, seedings of a smaller fraction are planted. The large fraction of onion sets can be planted at a later date.

Pre-planting soil preparation

Or vice versa – crop failure. In short, the following points are taken into account:

• a dry area where the snow melts first - the crop does not like stagnant water;
• light soils with neutral pH;
• in regions with high level raised ridges are well suited for snow: there is no risk of flooding, good warming;
• predecessors - grains, mustard, alfalfa, peas, beans, cabbage;
• poor predecessors, considering common pests, including nematodes - potatoes, beans, celery, alfalfa;
• Unlike garlic, onions love fertile soil: its root system is superficial, located 1-2 to 25 cm from the soil surface.

In large areas, after harvesting the predecessors, disking is carried out, weeds are removed, fertilizer is applied for plowing, and cultivation is carried out. In summer cottages, fertilizers are applied before digging - at least 2 weeks before planting.

Soil preparation: it's important

Sodium nitrate is applied for plowing or digging; calcium (ammonium nitrate), phosphorus (100-150 kg/ha), potassium 200-250 kg/ha are applied as the main fertilizer two weeks before planting.

Here's a wild oatmeal: onions and turnips.

Superphosphate and ammonium phosphate are used as phosphorus fertilizers; potassium fertilizers are often represented by potassium sulfate.

The share of nitrogen fertilizing in the fall should not exceed 20% of the total amount, the remaining 80% is applied in the spring.

In total, 75% of potassium and 25% of phosphorus fertilizers are applied for the main preplanting treatment.

These are the application rates for industrial plantings; for a summer residence, a simple recipe will be useful: up to 15 g/m2 of viburnum salt, 20-25 g/m2 of superphosphate. On poor soils, add ash at the rate of 10-15 g/m2. The introduction of humus and manure is appropriate for predecessors.

Fertilizer before planting

Before winter planting, 1/3 of nitrogen is applied (up to 60 kg/ha), then in two doses of 60 kg/ha: in the spring, at the beginning of the growing season, every two weeks.

The photo shows winter onion planting.

For summer residents: the same 15-20 g/m2 of superphosphate, 10-15 g of viburnum salt. The second feeding is carried out when the fourth leaf is formed.

And no organics. Maximum - under previous crops or mulching with humus. Why? Nitrogen does not contribute to a good winter. On the contrary, it postpones the period of rest. But the main thing is that it gives active growth the above-ground part to the detriment of the turnip. This means lush greenery on the feather and miniature turnips.

Distance and landing pattern

The generally accepted rule of planting at 1/2 the diameter also works for winter seeding. The depth of the cut depends on the caliber.

Planting scheme for winter onions and sowing rates: notes for gardeners and farmers.

Scheme for planting onions in a summer cottage: between rows up to 40 cm, between rows - on average 15 cm, or from 10 to 25 cm.

The distance in the row is 4-10 cm depending on the size. The distance for class I is 3-4 cm, for class II – 5-6 cm.

The smallest specimens are destroyed at a distance of 3-4 cm, with a diameter closer to 10 cm - at a distance of 7-10 cm from each other.

At what depth should winter onions be planted? The depth of planting depends on the size and region: in cold areas, the seedlings are buried to a depth of up to 10 cm, in regions with temperate climate– by 5-7 cm.

Important! Before planting, the neck of the bulbs is not cut off to prevent rotting.

The seedlings are not buried to a depth of less than 3-4 cm. Firstly, it will freeze, and secondly, it will bulge in the spring: and this is an irregular shape, lack of nutrition and watering.

Planting scheme and sowing rates for large areas

Sowing rates for onion sets are 450-460 t/ha for order I, 750-1000 kg/ha for order II. The maximum consumption per 1 ha is 1500 kg, and depends on the size. When using sampling, the sowing rate increases to 2000 kg/ha.

Gardeners are interested in the consumption of onion sets per 1 acre. This is 550-800 g/10 m2 (with a density of 456-650 plants per 10 m2 for class 1 sets, 800-1200 g/10 m2 for the second group.

To put it simply, for 5 m2 of beds you will need a little more than 1 kg. Per hundred square meters - twice as much - about 2-2.5 kg, or about 400-450 bulbs.

On industrial plantings for sowing with seeders of the type SLN-8A, SLS-12, a wide-row method is used - 45 cm between rows, a belt method - 50 + 20 (55 + 15, 60 + 10), a two-row belt method (60 + 40 + 40).

Planting onion sets before winter: how a turnip grew from an oatmeal

The process of planting in the fall at a summer cottage is a simple matter, and occurs as follows.

Planting onion sets before winter: don’t worry about the onion – the field.

1. The cut furrows are sprinkled with a thin layer of sand (micro-drainage, fights moisture, prevents rotting).
2. At a distance of 6-10 cm, the sets are immersed in a horizontal position.
3. Cover with garden soil and do not water.

As for fertilizing, after planting, urea is added, a mineral complex without dominant nitrogen.

In industrial areas, seeders SLN-8A, SLN-8B, and SLS-12 are used for planting.

Plantings are mulched only when stable frosts occur.

Industrial plantings are covered with agrofibre with a density of 17 g/m2 or 30 g/m2. This increases production costs, but eliminates the risk of losses. It is important not to make a mistake and not to cover it ahead of time - losses are inevitable.

Summer residents can use humus mixed with sand on poor soils, straw, spruce spruce branches, and litter.

Do not use peat, sawdust, or shavings as moisture-intensive materials that promote heating and freezing after thaws, making it difficult to warm up the soil in the spring. They also do not use organic matter: bulbous plants are not responsive to nitrogen fertilizers.

Caring for winter onions in spring and cleaning

Caring for winter onions differs from caring for spring-planted crops.

Caring for winter onions: everything is simple and not easy, just like the four-row planting method.

1. In the spring, the mulch layer is completely removed so that it does not interfere with germination, warming up the soil, or rotting.
2. To grow turnips, the crops are thinned out - however, thinning is also necessary when growing turnips.
3. They loosen the rows. During loosening and cultivation, sprinkling with soil is not permissible: the bulbs will form poorly.
4. Fertilizers. NPK complex, microelements.
5. Watering - as needed: the crop does not like waterlogging.

The permissible humidity of the calculated moisture layer is 0-40 cm - within 70% of HB.

In spring, it is important to thin out plantings.

On industrial plantings, 7-8 irrigations are carried out with a frequency of 8-12 days, which is equal to 350-400 m3/ha, on a summer cottage - as needed.

Advice! Watering is stopped before the leaves start lodging.

As intensive nutrition is carried out spring feeding microfertilizers - Master, Plantofol, etc. Considering that the preparations are not cheap, each farmer and summer resident decides the issue of fertilizing in his own way: who adds ash, who adds microfertilizers at a lower price. The main thing is to be careful with nitrogen. Nitrogen is added during the second feeding using calcium nitrate.

Advice! Do not water the plantings with manure or add fermented chicken manure.

First, it will produce abundant feathers and miniature bulbs. Secondly, it is not safe: these are bacteria, pests and helminths on the greens!

The onion is harvested when the false stem softens, the plume reaches 20-25 cm, or when lodging occurs, the scales turn the color characteristic of the variety - yellow, yellow-orange. On industrial plantings, harvesting equipment is used - LKG1-4, LPK-1.8, Grimme onion diggers, etc.

At mechanized technology After harvesting, the leaf is mowed with a KIR-1.5 B mower, after which it is placed in windrows using onion harvesters LKG-1.4, etc.

After harvesting, the crop is dried in bulk in a well-ventilated place.

About varieties

For autumn planting, choose a variety and hybrids of short (medium) daylight hours), forming the so-called bulbous thickenings with a day length of 12-14 hours.

When choosing a variety, pay attention to whether the onion is suitable for winter planting and whether it is zoned for a specific region.

For Central Russia, good varieties are Radar, Kip-Well, Ellan, Odintsovets, Shakespeare, Centurion, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarter Riesen, Arzamassky, Bessonovsky, Danilovsky.

In general, there are many productive onion sets suitable for planting in the fall. But that will be a completely different story. In the meantime, let the feather be green, the turnip large, and the winter snowy. Happy harvest!

In early spring, you really want to enjoy fresh onion greens, but it takes a long time to wait for onions planted in the spring to grow. And you can get an early and abundant harvest from winter onions, and in the remaining time you can occupy the bed with another crop. You can also make good money growing winter onions if you approach this matter wisely.

Somehow, historically, we mostly plant onions in the spring, trying to select larger and juicier sets. If anyone has grown sets on their own, they know how difficult it is to preserve small bulbs of sets in winter. During storage before spring planting, they have time to completely dry out and turn into “nothing.” Such an unjustified loss of invested labor. But small sets can be planted in the fall and not worry about their safety, but in the spring you can feast on green feathers and in July get a great harvest of onions.

I will share my experience, why I plant onions in the fall and what secrets there are in this technology. Moreover, this method is inevitably gaining popularity for its simplicity, and small-sized winter onion sets are sold more expensive than large ones during the autumn planting season.

How to get winter onion sets

For those who like to do everything themselves, I’ll tell you how to grow seedlings yourself. As early as possible, as soon as the snow melts and the soil warms up at least slightly, we sow nigella (onion seeds). We sow thickly, make a wide strip about 5 - 6 cm. We make such a distance between the strips that it is easy to weed. Cover it with a layer of 1–2 cm of soil, roll it lightly, like sowing carrots, and mulch with compost or humus.
We water the crops, and after the emergence of seedlings in hot and dry weather, we repeat the watering.

As the onion sets grow from seeds, we weed the bed and loosen the soil after each watering or rain. Sets do not need fertilizing.

An indicator that it is time to dig up the onion sets is that the leaves turn yellow and lie down. Then we dig it all up at once and leave it in the garden to dry. When it dries, the leaves peel off quickly and easily directly with your hands.

The crucial moment comes: select and sort the bulb sets. First of all, we winnow our harvest in the wind and sort it: large bulbs (more than 1 cm in diameter) will be left for spring sowing, and small ones (all less than 1 cm in diameter) will be planted in the fall.

Why should onion sets be small for planting in the fall?:

• Small onions do not bolt, so you can get a great harvest of high-quality food without fear of frosts and spring frosts. onions. This happens due to the fact that the stock nutrients they contain very little, there is not enough of it to form an arrow with seeds.
• Over the winter and early spring, the bulbs gain enough nutrients to please them with excellent greenery and feathers in the spring, and already provide turnips in late June - early August.
• The area after early onions can be used for other vegetables.
• It turns out to be very economical, since small seeding will not “survive” until spring planting anyway, but it still produces a good harvest.

Winter onion varieties: description

• Senshiu yellow,
• Radar,
• Kip Well,
• Ellan,
• Mstersky,
• Danilovsky,
• Stuttgarten Riesen,
• Strigunovsky local,
• Odintsovets,
• Myachkovsky 300,
• Zolotnichok,
• Carmen MS,
• Sturon.

Not every onion variety is able to survive frosts, but breeders have developed varieties and hybrids that can remain dormant in the soil under the snow and grow in conditions of not too long daylight hours.

For example, bulbs of the variety Shakespeare able to withstand frost down to -18 degrees, so it is most often used for planting in the fall. It is unpretentious and does not require special care. The bulb itself is round with white flesh and brown outer scales.

Varieties Radar And Ellan characterized by good germination, excellent taste, and early ripening. So Ellan can be consumed already in June, when spring onions and garlic are still growing, and last year’s harvest is over. Turnips are of medium size, weighing 100-150 grams, and Radar at good care can please you with large ones - up to 300 grams.

These winter varieties are deservedly popular Sturon, Baron, Centurion. It takes 2-2.5 months from the beginning of the set’s growth to full maturity. Sturon keeps well for at least 8 months, and Centurion is distinguished by its high vitamin C content and spicy taste.

Somewhat flat fruits of golden brown color with a sharp taste of the variety Stuttgarten Riesen ripen in 2 months and grow to 150-200 grams.

Variety name Keep Well speaks for itself: they prefer to grow it for long-term storage. He has the same one elongated shape bulbs, like the variety Bamberger, but slightly larger. Winter onions of these varieties have proven themselves to be unpretentious in care and convenient for planting in the fall.

Mstersky onions are cultivated in the village. Mstery of the Ivanovo industrial region. Forms a not very large flat bulb. The color of dry scales is yellow with pink tint or light brown. Fleshy scales are white. Only sets and small selections are used for planting turnip crops. Larger samples are used for pen culture. Mstera onion is quite resistant to downy mildew. It is relatively unpretentious to soil. It works well in the northern regions.

Myachkovsky onions are cultivated in the village. Myachkovo, Moscow region, from where it spread beyond last years and to other areas. Forms a very large bulb of flat and round-flat shape. The variety is very productive and relatively undemanding to soil, but winter storage has reduced keeping quality. It exhibits fairly good resistance to downy mildew disease. It has no export significance; it is of interest for cultivation at the latitude of Moscow and somewhat to the north for the purpose of sales on domestic markets.

Planting onions in autumn

When to plant onions before winter

The timing of planting onions is quite definite - planting should be completed 3 - 4 weeks (25 - 35 days) before the soil freezes, that is, before stable frosts begin. These deadlines may vary in different regions. For central Russia, for example, for the Moscow region, the favorable planting time is the period from October to early November. Our weather is unpredictable, sometimes it’s cold, sometimes later the “Indian summer” will clear up. So keep an eye on the weather forecast. Keep in mind that if the temperature drops to +5°C and stays the same, it’s time to plant.

Also, when determining the time of planting seedlings in the fall, many people look at the lunar calendar. He will tell you the most favorable days planting onions for the winter. You should definitely not plant during a full moon if weather conditions allow you to move the planting to a more suitable time. From lunar calendar You can also find out when it is better to apply fertilizers, which is done in advance, not on the same day as planting.

Where to plant

Onions can be grown in the same bed for a maximum of 2 years in a row, then the place should be changed and returned to the old one after 4 - 5 years. The soils should be light: humus loams or humus-sandy soils. The most luxurious onions can be grown on silt deposits in river valleys, but only in warm ones.

The predecessors of onions can be potatoes, White cabbage, corn and others.

Important! You cannot apply fresh manure to onion sets, as the plants will eventually form large leaf masses and loose bulbs that are unsuitable for storage. If you want to fertilize the beds, use humus or compost. Better yet, bring it under its predecessor.

The area allocated for autumn planting onions must be dry, ventilated, stagnation of water will cause the onions to simply rot. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure unhindered drainage of melt and rainwater to the side, and even better if the site is on a hill so that high groundwater cannot interfere.

How to plant onions before winter

We cut grooves at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from each other. We plant the sets in increments of 3 to 10 cm to a depth of 3 – 4 cm. The distance between plants in a row depends on the variety. The larger the bulbs that the variety forms, the greater the distance should be. So the power supply area will be sufficient.

The planting depth of 3–4 cm is due to the fact that at a shallower depth, the bulbs begin to stick out of the ground in the spring, becoming bare. We do not cut off the necks of the onions.

We fill the furrows with soil and mulch, but do not water. By the way, it is necessary to mulch autumn plantings immediately before the onset of cold weather. To do this, you can use dry leaves, dry humus, spruce branches, tops of other plants, flower stems, sawdust, pine needles and other material.

In winter, it would be a good idea to keep the snow in the garden bed so that the onions do not freeze out in severe frosts, more than -20°C.

Caring for winter onions in spring

As soon as the snow melts, we immediately remove the mulching material so that the soil warms up faster. The soil is loose and in the future it needs to be loosened after heavy rains and abundant watering. Then you can feed the plantings: add diluted chicken manure.

The second feeding can be done no earlier than the leaves appear. And here you can use the drugs that you like to use: antistress agents, immunomodulators and growth stimulants, for example, Plantafol.

How to protect onions from pests

To protect your plantings from onion flies, you can sow marigolds and calendula around the garden bed or even inside it. If you use chemicals in the fight against the enemy, then remember, you can collect onions for feathers only 7 - 10 days after such processing. You can also sprinkle tobacco dust between the rows (on its own or mixed with lime), this also repels the onion fly. Since there are 2 generations of flies, there should be 2 treatments with an interval of 8 - 10 days.

Important! The first generation of onion fly larvae causes damage in June, and the second generation in July (middle).

As the onions grow, it is better to take those with more developed leaf mass, giving the neighboring, less developed ones the opportunity to grow and develop. When weeding, you should be very careful not to damage the bulbs with a sharp tool. Wounds on the bulbs contribute to the occurrence various diseases, such onions cannot be stored even for a month.

When to Harvest

A signal that the bulbs are fully formed is that the leaves lie down, and the integumentary scales have acquired a color characteristic of the variety, for example, blue or orange, red.
Sometimes leaves are specially placed to speed up ripening, but we’re not in a hurry, are we? So we wait as long as necessary.

We dig out the bulbs very carefully and leave them to dry in a ventilated place. Storing should be done only after the onion has dried well and its leaves and roots are dry.

Important! We eat unripe bulbs or those that have a thick, juicy neck first; they will not be stored.

In the vacated garden bed, you can plant other vegetables, for example: sow carrots, radishes, turnips, daikon, beets, and herbs.

The remaining time is enough for them to ripen. Moreover, carrots and beets, for example, are not afraid of light frosts and develop well in cool autumn weather.

In conclusion, I would like to note that if you plant not onion sets in the fall, but just small turnip bulbs, then in the spring you will be unpleasantly surprised, as they will all shoot out arrows.

By the way, multi-tiered onions are also planted before winter. This is the name given to varieties that are perennial frost-resistant branching plants that reproduce only vegetatively - by aerial and basal bulbs. Best moment for planting multi-tiered onions - September, the very first days. It then has time to take root, germinate, and also accumulate a supply of the nutrients it needs.

The landing technology is similar to the previous one.

Leeks, trumpets, shallots and other types are also planted before winter. Moreover, they plant onions before winter even in such harsh regions as the Urals and Siberia. True, gardeners there additionally cover the beds planted with onions and garlic with spruce branches so that they do not freeze in the harsh winter.

Ways to plant onions before winter, video

It is very clearly explained which onions are best planted on turnips in the fall. The secrets of seed planting technology have been revealed. Preparation explained planting material and optimal planting dates are determined. Thanks to the author, let's take a look!

Best reviews from gardeners

Please note that compared to garlic, onions have lower winter hardiness, so shallow planting is fraught with freezing, especially if frosts come before snow cover. To prevent the onions from freezing, the plantings should be covered. Do this when the first frost hits the soil (no need to rush - there is a risk of damping off).

I use spruce branches for this, but you can also use straw. In spring, remove the shelter when the soil begins to thaw.
And I agree with Oleg, optimal time for planting onions before winter it is October, around the 10th-20th.
For me the best varieties onions for planting before winter Arzamassky, Strigunovsky, Stuttgarter Riesen, Danilovsky, Bessonovsky. These are very well-known and popular varieties of winter onions among summer residents.
I plant a Christmas tree set, also called wild oatmeal.

I plant onions before winter in October, 5-10. The most optimal landing time.

When are winter onions planted in the Urals? If anyone has experience, please tell me. Is it worth doing this? Will a beginner be able to grow it?

Onions - some people adore them, others can’t stand them, and still others, year after year, still allocate at least a few meters of onion beds on their plots. Everyone who allocates these beds for onions understands perfectly well that this crop cannot be grown without care: then suddenly the onions will be thrown away, if it becomes stuffy and hot, then it will begin to rot, if the rains have flooded the soil or you have gone too far with irrigation water on the site. What to do and what to do? Should I plant an onion before winter and try what comes out of it? They planted it and liked it, and since then the tradition has been to plant onions before winter. And today we will tell you how and what to do.

Advantages of winter planting onions

Let's start with the obvious advantages of winter planting onions. At the first place, without a doubt (everyone will agree) - this is an early harvest. Before you have time to blink your eye, it’s time to reap the harvest. It’s just the tip of summer—July is here, and the winter onion is ready to be harvested, and the onion manages to form a large one, regardless of the variety. Although my advice to you is: select varieties that have good reviews in your area and then there will definitely be no mistakes.

Plus the second- they removed the onions, cleared out the garden bed, there was so much free space, and how much summer warmth was still ahead (why should both heat and space be wasted in vain). Of course, not every crop after onions can be planted in the garden, but the same greens or some quickly ripening vegetables will be very happy to be replanted and will definitely have time to produce their harvests before the fall.

Plus the third, especially good for a lazy person - it turns out that winter onions need to be weeded less often. Why? Winter onion shoots appear early, during this period 90% of the weeds are still peacefully sleeping, and as soon as they wake up, the onion has become so tall and noticeable that it is easy to distinguish it from a weed.

And that's not all the advantages: Among other things, you also need to remember the onion fly. Although it is activated in the spring, it damages onion plants planted before winter to a lesser extent, because they are already much stronger than spring planting. In addition, if you line a bed with winter onions with a bed of carrots, then the smell of carrots will completely discourage the onion fly from appearing in the onion bed.

Winter onions store well, the main thing is to dry it better, and then braid it and hang it on the wall in the apartment (I think it looks great).

What are the other advantages of winter planting onions?

If the seedlings are small when planting, then they won’t bolt at all, can you imagine?! Well, okay, he’ll still give you a couple of arrows during the season and no more, he breaks it and that’s the end of it. It’s not like before, when, let’s face it, every bulb tried to prove its presence in the garden with a picturesque arrow.

Important! Try not to plant large seedlings before winter: it is in this case that bolting will be as strong as possible. Well, what if the bow is on a feather? You can also plant large sets on feathers; plant as much as you can eat, because fine onions planted before winter will yield little feathers. But from large fractions of seedlings, feathers are obtained that are powerful, beautiful, and tasty, but there are also a lot of shoots.

Disadvantages of winter planting onions

There aren't many of them. Firstly, the planting rate: alas, it will have to be increased, because in winter a number of plants may die. In fact, even large enterprises involved in planting onions for the winter increase the number of planted bulbs by only 12-16%, that is, quite a bit, and these costs are more than recouped by early harvests.

But, alas, no one is immune from force majeure circumstances; they exist here too, and they can safely be counted among the second disadvantage of autumn planting onions. Alas, it’s the weather, if it doesn’t snow, that is, it doesn’t snow at all, the sky is so turquoise, clear, and the frost is getting lower and lower and is already reaching -16, then a large-scale death of the planted plants will begin. How to save?

You can cover the plantings with non-woven covering material, you can make smoky fires along the periphery of the site, having agreed in advance with the neighbors. But it is much safer to cover the entire area as soon as possible with a thick layer of non-woven covering material (five or even ten centimeters), depending on the temperature: what it is expected to be and whether there will be snow in the near future.

If the snow that falls from your site is often blown away by the wind, then an excellent option is a layer of spruce spruce branches; it is not a good insulation, can be used in combination with, say, dry leaves, but it retains snow very well. Often, to cover onions, if it is frosty and there is no snow, you can use literally everything at hand, straw, dry plant stems and even dry leaves legumes, right down to the seed husks.

There is no need to rush to cover; usually the surface is covered as soon as the soil is caught by frost. If you cover the soil earlier, the onions may begin to rot under the cover, especially if it is warm and humid.

The best and natural option for shelter is, of course, snow. Fantastic, but just a couple of centimeters is enough to save your entire onion even at -15 degrees below zero.

Choosing a place for winter planting onions

In a burst of indelible joy and happiness from upcoming work with soil, do not forget that onions love loose soil that has a neutral reaction, that is, a pH of about 6.0. How to determine soil pH: any garden store sells a jar with litmus papers and a scale, buy it and bring it home. Next, stir the water and soil in a glass of water for about 15 minutes, placing a strip of litmus paper there. You wait about five seconds and check the color of the paper with the scale on the package. Depending on the result obtained, you should either add 250 g of lime per square meter to deoxidize the soil, or start planting winter onions.

When you have generally sorted out the soil on the site, proceed to choosing a place for the garden bed. I strongly advise you to place winter onions in the most well-lit and ventilated place. But so that the snow does not blow away in winter, but lingers in this area for as long as possible. And in the spring, it’s better to quickly evaporate from this area, not just drain, but evaporate. Also, neither irrigation nor rainwater should stagnate in this area.

So, remember: the soil is loose (not clay), the soil reaction is neutral, the place is open and well lit (no shadows) and sufficiently ventilated to further prevent stagnation of moisture and various types of diseases.

Important! Before winter, plant onions in a place where in the spring the snow melts as quickly and smoothly as possible and moisture does not stagnate (this has already been reported). Let us note once again: stagnation of moisture for onions is a terrible nuisance.

Predecessors of the bow

It seems that the garden bed has been chosen. But before you start preparing the soil, you need to look in your notebook and find out what crops grew in this garden bed before. Let’s say that if potatoes, any legumes, parsley, celery and alfalfa grew in this place, then it is better to refrain from planting onions: there is an extremely high probability of onions becoming infected with nematodes. The best precursors for winter onions are crops such as beets, rapeseed, peas, corn, lettuce, mustard and cucumber.

Planting onions before winter

Fertilizers for winter onions

For some reason, it is customary to strenuously fight fertilizers in Russia, as if they are the cause of all troubles and misfortunes. But in this case, I do not advise, as some advise, to apply nitrogen fertilizers to winter onions at all; they say that this makes them winter poorly. Personally, I would get by with adding wood ash before winter: 300 grams per square meter of bed is enough, but in the spring you can dilute mullein 15 times and add one liter per square meter.

What I would recommend exactly is to add 15-20 g per square meter of superphosphate to the soil about seven days before planting winter onions, and also mix potassium sulfate (5-8 g per square meter) with the soil right on the day of planting.

Landing dates

There is no need for haste here, so we won’t rush into planting winter onions. It is optimal to place it on the plots about a month before the start of the real frost (otherwise it will begin to grow, how it will gain strength, and then what to do with it?). But in fact, in the case of onions, it is advisable to meet the deadlines and you only have to rely on the thermometer and weather forecasters.

Let's take the middle lane as an example. Experts write that the optimal time for planting onions before winter here is from the 5th to the 20th of October. Imagine a 15-day range of deadlines! More than two weeks. And why? But because the weather is very changeable and capricious, and during this period of time it can change dramatically. We need to somehow plan to plant the onions so that all planting is completed three weeks before the soil freezes completely.

It is clear that this period is different in each region, you can only rely on the weather forecast, for example, if for two or three days the temperature drops to +5 and does not rise anymore, then you can completely start planting onions. During my life I observed different things: it happened that on the Intercession, that is, already in mid-October, such snow fell that it no longer melted, and it happened that even a month after the Intercession there was still no snow.

Let’s summarize: don’t rush, monitor the weather forecast, choose the optimal time so that the onion not only does not have time to form roots, but also does not show the tiny tips of the leaves from under the soil, because then you can’t count on a good harvest. And if it doesn’t form any roots in the soil at all and sits until spring exactly in the same form as it was planted, then that’s also nothing good. Ideally, the roots should begin to grow, and the onion should come to life and immediately freeze (and not freeze) until spring.

Preparation of planting material

So, we have sorted out the soil, the planting date is approaching, it’s time to start preparing the onion planting material. This is a mandatory and necessary event and cannot be ignored. Why do they sort onions before planting? In order to remove all damaged and diseased bulbs from the overall batch, the onions are then usually divided into four batches, which are entirely dependent on their size. Typically, the first category includes bulbs whose diameter is from a centimeter to one and a half, the second category includes bulbs with a diameter from one and a half to three centimeters, and a separate selection must be made into which the bulbs whose diameter is considered quite large - more than three centimeters - are placed. Onions that do not fall into any category, that is, very small ones (less than a centimeter), are called wild oatmeal, and are placed in separate boxes.

Onion sorting

This sorting of onions is important in order to obtain uniform plantings. How you sort the bulbs is how you plant them: this is not a trivial calculation of how many large bulbs you have, how many medium ones, how many small ones, and so on.

Important! Oats and planting material of the first category are used to produce first-class greens, while larger bulbs are used specifically for the production of bulbs.

Planting onions

Before planting, I would advise digging up the already selected area, which we have described above, with a shovel full, adding 5-6 kg of humus or compost per square meter, as well as a handful of wood ash. Next, the area needs to be perfectly leveled and grooves made five centimeters deep, in which the bulbs will be planted.

However, not all onions are planted according to the same principle. For example, it is advisable to plant wild oatmeal, a typical winter onion, to a depth of two, maximum three centimeters; it is not worth burying it deeper at all.

It is better to leave a distance of six or seven centimeters between the bulbs, and arrange the grooves themselves so that the distance between them is equal to one and a half ten centimeters. Next, all that remains is to place the onion vertically, lightly squeezing it with your fingers, sprinkling it with soil and leveling it.

By the way, we described the method of planting onions in furrows, but this does not mean that they can only be planted this way and not otherwise. It is quite possible to plant onions in holes (for example, using the square-nest method, beloved by many), the planting principle is the same.

In the future, it is advisable to water the soil in the beds where winter onions are planted well and ensure that the soil is moist before the onset of frost (before covering).

What to do in spring?

In the spring, the first thing to do, as soon as the snow melts, is to remove any cover from the bow. But you should act carefully so as not to damage its delicate leaves, which by that time may already appear. Next, you need to loosen the soil and do this after every rain and watering. We will tell you what to do next with the onion in the next article.

Almost every gardener, both beginner and experienced, grows onions on their own plot. This is understandable, because this vegetable is present in most of the daily dishes that we are used to eating. It is rich in beneficial microelements and protects during the flu and cold season. In addition, many people love to eat onions raw and cannot live without them. fresh salads. And this right choice. After all, the benefits of onions for human health have been scientifically proven.

Previously we discussed , and . Today we will take a closer look at how to grow onion sets. This method is most familiar to gardeners and is considered one of the simplest.

To do this you need to select suitable variety and buy it. You can do the same on your own. Seeds are sold in stores, but you can also get them at home by planting an onion of the desired variety in the ground and waiting for an arrow with an inflorescence to appear.

For the harvest to be as successful as possible, experienced gardeners It is recommended to adhere to the recommendations of the lunar calendar. Scientists make a calendar every year taking into account the phases of the moon. Using it, we can determine favorable and undesirable days for planting a particular plant.

To determine the planting date, sowing the lunar calendar is not enough. It is necessary to take into account the location and surrounding climate. Although onions are not particularly demanding of heat, they achieve their best growth in sunny and warm summers.

The most favorable days for sowing onion sets in 2020, based on your region of residence, can be selected from this list:

1. April 7, 8, 9, 16, 28;
2. May 4, 5, 14, 31;
3. June 1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 18.

Onions for the winter can be planted on the following dates:

1. September 8, 27, 29;
2. October 6, 8, 26;
3. November 3, 22, 28, 30.

Growing and caring for onion sets in Siberia

Onions in Siberia need to be planted either in spring or autumn. It depends on the variety and type of vegetable. For this area, however, spring planting is most suitable. It is better to start sowing seedlings in early May. If you do this in April, when the soil is not yet warm enough, the onions will give you only greens; you can forget about large onions. If you plant onions in the summer, the vegetables will not have time to grow to the desired size by autumn.

Before planting, seedlings, like any other planting material, must first be prepared. To do this, dilute 2 tablespoons of table salt in 5 liters of water. Place the onions there throughout the day. Then prepare a pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the seedlings there for 2 hours. Immediately after this you need to start planting in the ground.

Onions love neutral, non-acidic soil. Starting in the fall, you need to fertilize the beds with compost or mullein. You need to choose a bright, well-ventilated place, away from bushes and trees. Onions are planted in dug up and cleaned beds at a distance of about 10 centimeters.

In the first days after planting, onions need constant moistening and loosening. For the next two weeks, watering should be done 2-3 times every 7 days, and then reduce the amount to 1 time per week. Urea and wood ash are well suited for feeding.

If you are aiming to harvest large onions, it is better to avoid fertilizing with organic matter.

You will know for yourself when the onions are ready to be harvested. The greenery stops forming new feathers, withers and falls off. After harvesting, the onions need to lie on a bright, windy side all day, until the evening.

Planting and fertilizing onions in open ground

After planting, after about 2 weeks, the onion beds need to be fed. At this stage, the green feathers grow slowly and have a yellowish tint to them. To help the bulbs begin to grow properly, you need to apply fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. In a bucket of water, dilute 40 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of potassium chloride and 50 g of superphosphate. Water the beds with the solution at the rate of 1.5 liters per square meter.

After 2-3 weeks, the beds need to be fed again. In this case, you can use regular compost or mullein. A month later, shortly before digging up the onions, apply the last portion of fertilizer. Potassium and phosphorus will help you here. You can fertilize yourself as follows: in a bucket hot water dissolve 300g of ash and leave for 2 days. Water at the rate of 2 liters per 1 square meter.

In addition, in specialized stores you can find special mixtures of fertilizers that just need to be dissolved in water.

When to plant seedlings in the Leningrad region and in the Moscow region

In the Moscow region and Leningrad region, seedlings should be planted in early May, when the ground is sufficiently warm. Although onions are not overly heat-loving, they bear fruit much faster and better in warm soil.

Prepared seeds should be planted in fresh beds cleared of weeds and stones. They should be located on a well-lit and ventilated side. Excessive shade can cause onions to rot.

Planting onions too early can rob you of strong bulbs and only leave you with bushy greens. Planting onions at the end of June is also the wrong choice. The onion will not have time to ripen correctly and reach the size required for storage.

Proper planting of onions and caring for them in the Urals

You need to sow the seedlings in open ground around mid-May. Onions are planted in beds at a distance of 10 centimeters, pressing them to the top into the ground. One of the most important components proper care after the onions comes weeding. Weed removal should be done every one and a half to two weeks. Weeds provide the soil with excessive humidity, which can lead to rotting of the onion.

In the first 2 weeks after planting onions in open ground, the soil needs to be watered every 7 days. The water should be cool, about 15 degrees above zero. Water consumption is approximately 13 liters per 1 square meter. After green onions appear, watering should be reduced to once every 2 weeks.

After irrigating the beds, the soil around the bulbs needs to be loosened to ensure proper access of water and oxygen to the root system. The appearance of post-irrigation crust has a bad effect on the quality of the crop.

2 weeks after planting, you need to apply the first fertilizing. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers are perfect for this. 14 days after this, the turn of the second feeding begins. Phosphorus and potassium substances are the priority here.

3 weeks before the intended digging, watering of the onions should be stopped.

What kind of soil should there be for growing onions?

As we already know optimal place For sowing the seedlings, a bright, preferably sunny area is required, without any bushes or trees nearby. The soil should be non-acidic and without a tendency to great growth weeds.

It’s great if, before sowing the onions, zucchini, cabbage, legumes, potatoes or pumpkins grew in this soil. As a rule, these vegetables require organic fertilizers, which gives these predecessors an advantage.

Onions are happy to be next to cabbage, carrots and beets. Unless, of course, they grow very close, covering them with tops sunlight. The distance between the beds should be at least 50 centimeters.

Onions prefer loamy and sandy soil. Too heavy soil will not provide a good harvest.

Now you know how to properly grow onions so that your neighbors look at your harvest with envy. But perhaps the most important rule for growing any type of vegetables is good mood. After all, fruits and vegetables grown with love taste better than anything else in the world. So stock up the right attitude aimed at obtaining a rich harvest!

Planting onions in late autumn

Onions can be grown not only as a summer crop, but also planted before winter. Although this option is less popular, it allows you to get an early onion harvest.

Advantages and disadvantages of winter onions

Advantages of winter planting onions.

1. Before winter, the smallest set is planted, the diameter of which is less than 1 cm, it is called wild oatmeal. Such sets are not stored in winter and dry out. When planting in autumn, you get double savings: the seedlings are not only preserved, but also produce a harvest.
2. Possibility of obtaining early greenery in spring.
3. Receiving turnip harvest 3-4 weeks earlier.
4. Small bulbs used for winter planting do not produce arrows, while selections (large sets) always shoot.
5. Less damaged by pests than summer.
6. During the initial growth period, it does not require watering, since after winter there is still enough moisture in the soil.
7. The bulbs are larger and juicier due to the fact that their root system is more powerful.

Autumn planting of onions also has disadvantages:

1. Not all of the seedlings will sprout in the spring.
2. If there is an error with the planting time, the yield decreases.
3. The productivity of the winter road is somewhat lower than that of the summer road.
4. Winter onions are stored worse than spring onions.

Overall, the technology has many more advantages than disadvantages. After harvesting the winter onion, it is used first, then the problem with preservation is eliminated.

What onions are planted before winter?

All varieties of yellow and most varieties of red onions can be grown as a winter crop. White onions are less suitable for winter planting. It is better to use varieties zoned for of this region. If the variety is not zoned, there may be large falls, or the onion may not sprout at all.

Varieties that grow very well in winter cultivation are:

• Zodiac
• Viking
• Ellan
• Sturon
• Carmen.

Most of them are salad varieties, unsuitable for winter storage. They are used for canning and processing before the main harvest ripens.

The best predecessors

When growing winter onions, crop rotation must be observed in the same way as for summer plantings. For all types of onions best predecessors are green crops and cabbage plants. Good predecessors are:

• tomatoes,
• melons (pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers) in the southern regions - watermelons and melons;
• (oilseed radish, mustard).

You should not plant onions before winter after any root crops. After bulbous plants, including bulbous flowers, you cannot plant turnips.

Place for autumn planting of onion sets

To plant onions before winter, choose dry and sunny place. On waterlogged soil, onions become wet, and in the shade, small bulbs form. The crop loves to be exposed to the rays of the sun all day long, then the harvest will be higher. When shaded, the leaves grow intensively and the setting of bulbs is delayed. In deep shade, the bulb may not set at all.

The bed should be located where the snow melts first in the spring and the water does not stagnate. When water stagnates on the site, the bed is made with a slope of 1°, this is enough for melt water and precipitation to flow down.

When lying close groundwater make drainage from sand at least 3 cm thick.

Preparing the soil for sowing

The area for planting onions should have light, well-warmed soil. When groundwater is close, winter onions are planted in high ridges (30-40 cm). Rapidly compacting soils are dug with 1-1.5 shovels; light and sandy soils are dug shallow; when digging deeply, the seedlings may go into deep layers and not sprout in the spring.

The culture requires fertile soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6-7.3). Acidic soils are limed. Onions tolerate lime well, so it is added when preparing the soil for planting. To achieve a quick effect, use fluff or ash.

For winter onions, and for other bulbous crops, fresh manure is not applied. It is also advisable not to use semi-rotted manure. From such fertilizer, the onions will wither in winter, and the one that sprouts in the spring will give a large number of powerful lush greenery, but will not tie a turnip.

The soil is prepared 2 weeks before planting. If you plant the seed immediately after digging, it will go deep and may not sprout in the spring. The earth must settle and settle. When digging, add organic matter (except fresh manure) bucket for 1 m 2, 20 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potash fertilizers. The plant tolerates chlorine well, so you can use potassium chloride. An excellent fertilizer is wood ash (0.5 bucket per 1 m2). When using it, potassium fertilizers are not applied, and if liming is necessary, the dose of lime is reduced. No nitrogen fertilizers are used in the fall, since they are washed away by melt water into the lower layers of the soil and are not available to plants in the spring.

On heavy, clayey, quickly compacting soils, 1-2 buckets of sand per m2 are added to loosen them, depending on the density. On sandy soils, clay is added to help retain moisture.

Preparation of planting material

To plant winter onions, use sets with a diameter of no more than 1 cm. At home, such seed material is not stored and dries quickly, and when planted it produces good large bulbs. A larger set is not suitable, because when grown as a winter crop in the spring, it goes into the arrow and sets small bulbs. It devotes all its strength to the formation of seeds; inside it has a rod that prevents the turnip from setting.

In order to select planting material, cardboard box make a hole with a diameter of 1 cm and sift the onions. The seedlings that passed through the hole can be planted before winter.

2 weeks before planting, the onions are soaked in warm water(temperature 45-50°C) for 3-4 hours. Heat treatment kills pest eggs overwintering in the bottom. Warming up should not be neglected, otherwise you may not get a harvest.

Immediately after warming up, the seeds are treated. Additional processing Onions are not treated for pests, since all the eggs have already died. The main pest of crops is onion fly- appears in early summer. By this time, the winter road will become stronger, denser, and the pest will not be able to get into the bulb.

For pickling, you can use the preparations Tiram, Fitosporin M, Maxim, soaking the wild oatmeal in them for 30 minutes. Copper preparations are not used for treatment; they help well with false powdery mildew(peronospora), but do not protect against root rot.

A good preventative effect is obtained by soaking in a rich pink solution of potassium permanganate. The seed material is kept in the solution for 45-60 minutes, then dried well.

Dates for planting onions in the fall

Winter onions are usually planted at the same time as winter garlic, V middle lane It's mid-October. But, if you plant garlic in frozen ground, it will not freeze and will still sprout in the spring. But the onion definitely needs to take root; if it doesn’t have time to take root, it will freeze in winter. It takes 14-18 days for the wild oat to take root. In this case, they focus on the weather, planting onions 2-3 weeks before frost. Onions in the ground can tolerate frosts down to -5-6°C, but if the wild oatmeal is poorly rooted, it freezes. In spring, such plants have weak, pale leaves; if severely damaged, they quickly die.

It is important to ensure that the onions do not sprout, otherwise, caught in the frost, they will die. During a long, warm autumn, onions are planted when the temperature drops below 6°C and does not rise above 5-7 days. In the pre-winter period, the soil has not yet frozen, and, at the same time, the seedlings will have time to take root, but will not germinate.

Planting winter onions

The planting scheme for wild oatmeal depends on the purpose of the onion. When growing for turnips, the distance between the bulbs is 10 cm, between rows - 20-25 cm. When growing for turnips, compacted planting is used: the distance between sets is 2-3 cm, the row spacing is 8-10 cm.

Before planting, make rows 5-6 cm deep, at the bottom of which a layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured. This is micro-drainage. There shouldn't be any around the bulb. late autumn and in early spring there is a lot of moisture, sand just protects the seedlings from getting wet.

Plant the wild oatmeal to a depth of 3-4 cm and sprinkle it with sand, and fill the furrows with earth on top. Winter onions should not be planted too deep or too shallow. If planted deeply in the spring, it will not be able to germinate; if planted shallowly, when the soil settles, the onion will end up on the surface and freeze in winter.

The soil should be slightly moist. If autumn is damp, then after drawing the rows, the bed is allowed to air for 30-40 minutes, and then drainage is poured. During dry autumn, the rows are watered.

Preparing beds for winter

2 weeks after planting onions, the beds are mulched with fallen leaves, hay, spruce branches, and peat. Previously, there is no need to cover the plantings, otherwise the seedlings will be too warm and, in a dry autumn, they will germinate, but in a damp autumn they will get wet.

If winters in the region are cold but with little snow, then the mulch layer is increased. When covering the bed with light material, so that it is not blown away by the wind, branches are placed on top. You cannot cover a bed covered with fallen leaves with film. It does not allow air to pass through, condensation always forms under it and in winter the seedlings will either freeze or rot.

If the winter in the region is warm, then the bed does not need to be mulched. In such situations, they always rely on the weather in a particular area. For winter onions, the main thing is that the ground does not freeze before rooting.

Spring onion care

As soon as the snow has melted, the mulch is immediately removed, otherwise the seedlings may rot. The winter plant sprouts very early, as does garlic. As soon as the sun warms up, shoots appear. The crop is not afraid of frost down to -4-5°C, but if the nights are cold, the plants are covered with lutarsil or film. In the morning, the covering material is removed.

When plants are damaged by night frost, the tips of the leaves turn white, and the stem and leaves themselves acquire a whitish-yellow hue. In this case, urgently feed with potassium or calcium nitrate (fertilizers containing nitrogen), they help the onion to survive a stressful situation and promote the growth of new leaves. Urea cannot be fed at sub-zero night temperatures, since it contains pure nitrogen, and this, without the presence of other elements, reduces the frost resistance of plants.

Onion feeding

In the first half of the growing season, winter onions need nitrogen, so when the threat of frost has passed, they feed with weed infusion, humates, or urea. After the formation of 5-6 leaves, give potassium-phosphorus fertilizer (1 tablespoon of each fertilizer per 10 liters of water), or feed the onions with an infusion of ash. But if the soil is fertile, fertilizing is not carried out.

You cannot feed the winter road with manure. The nitrogen contained in manure is needed by onions only during the period of feather growth; then it will prevent the formation of bulbs. But since manure decomposes slowly, the maximum amount of nitrogen enters the soil when the plant sets a bulb. As a result, the onion either continues to grow feathers, or, in rainy weather, rots.

Watering

The winter road is undemanding when it comes to watering. After winter, there is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil, so no watering is carried out in the first 20-30 days after germination. Then, in hot and dry weather, water the plants 1-2 times a week, depending on the air temperature. All waterings (and liquid fertilizers) is carried out strictly at the root. The soil between the rows must be loosened. Onions are very sensitive to a lack of oxygen in the root zone, and if a crust forms on the soil, the bulb suffocates and rots.

If onions are grown for turnips, it is not advisable to cut off the feather. When leaves are removed, plants grow new ones to the detriment of the bulb. If the leaves are removed too much, the turnip turns out to be very small, and may not set at all.

After 35-50 days, depending on the variety, watering is stopped, and in wet weather, the soil is raked away from the turnip so that the bulb can breathe. From this time the bulb begins to ripen and excess moisture harms the plants.

When the feathers are lodged, the onion is ready for harvesting. The winter season ripens, depending on the region, in early to mid-July.

Failures during cultivation

Main reasons.

1. The planting depth is incorrectly selected. The onion either does not sprout or freezes.
2. Planting sets too late. The oatmeal freezes.
3. Waterlogging of the soil in spring. The onions rot.
4. Use of unsuitable planting material. The set dried out even before planting and the embryo died.

If all growing rules are followed, failures are minimized.

Problems when growing winter onions

Winter onions have the same problems as summer onions, but they are more acute.

Firstly, the winter road is more demanding on fertilizers than the summer road. Immediately after germination, it experiences an acute lack of nitrogen (like winter garlic). Summer onions need much less nitrogen.

Secondly, onions planted before winter often experience whitening of the tips of the leaves. This also happens to pilots, but less often.

The main causes of whitening of leaf tips.