Homemade sanding drum for wood. How to make a drum type grinder yourself? Some models of drum-type grinding machines on the Russian market

Homemade grinding drum on a drill.
When sanding wooden products it is necessary to process not only rectilinear planes, but also curly edges. For this irreplaceable device is a grinding drum. You can buy such a drum, or make it yourself. And for work, use a hand drill or a stationary drilling machine.

Curly edges of carpentry parts can be processed in another way, manual router with a copy cutter according to the template. This gives a gain in time and quality, but only when processing a large number details. If your products are single, then there is no point in making them for each template. Moreover, to make a template, you will again need a grinding drum; you cannot make an accurate template without it.

As I said, you can buy a grinding drum, they are sold in different diameters and qualities. But working with such a device simply by holding the drill on the weight is not very comfortable, and most importantly, you cannot get accurate and high-quality processing.

One of the adaptation options may be the manufacture of a small table for a drill. The drill itself is attached to the desktop vertically. You can also make it from a hand drill.

The table can be assembled from scraps of MDF, thick plywood or chipboard (laminate). All parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws. The product is assembled in the form of a box with a table top. A hole is drilled in the top cover according to the diameter of the drum. The bottom edge of the skin should be below the countertop line. You can also make plywood.

You can easily attach legs to this frame, then you get a free-standing tool. In the version that you see in the photo, the box is attached to the desktop.

Almost any drill will do, but for serious work it is advisable to use a more powerful one. The drill is attached to the tsarga of the desktop with clamps. I already wrote on the site about horizontal installation drills, in the article.

Homemade grinding drum.

You can not only buy a drum, but also make it yourself. It's actually not that hard if you have a wood lathe. You can also process the drum on a drilling machine, only it will be more difficult.

I use a metal drum for work, the skin in it is fastened with a metal pin with a slot. The drum is installed on a stationary milling machine. You can carve such a part on special equipment, see the article. But such a detail can be made by simpler means.

To assemble the fixture, we need a vertical axis, for this a bolt or stud with a diameter of 10/12 mm is suitable. and 100-150 mm long. . We put pieces of plywood on this axis, previously sawn with a jigsaw with a small margin in diameter. In the center of all parts, we drill a hole according to the diameter of the bolt. Lubricate the plywood fragments with glue and tighten the nut. Then it is desirable to turn the drum on lathe on wood, so you get a more accurate and even surface.

Another option for assembling a homemade drum. Only two pieces of plywood are placed on the axis, the top and bottom, and a piece of hard foam is clamped between them. Simple packaging foam will not work, it is too loose. The product in the photo is assembled exactly like this.

How to stick a skin.

Stores sell sandpaper with self-adhesive inner surface is the most convenient option. If there is no such skin, then you can glue the usual one. You need to glue with an overlap, but at the same time you can’t join to the abrasive, you will get a bump that will hit the part. For the correct sticker, it is necessary to mark the overlap at the lower end of the skin, soak in a solvent and clean off the abrasive.

Do not forget that sandpaper is consumable, and sooner or later it will have to be torn off and a new one stuck on. To make this process easier, without damaging the drum itself, you first need to stick thick paper and already a skin on it. I've tried stapling the skin, but it's not very good. Staples are quickly erased, and besides, they scratch the workpiece. All the same the best option, this is the use of self-adhesive skins.

The diameter of the drum can be different, it depends on what parts you are going to process. But just remember what smaller diameter the faster the skin will rub off. Most suitable option diameter from 60 mm. up to 100 mm. . Most often, the drum is used to process parts up to 50 mm thick. , so the working height of the drum can be 70-120 mm. .

This instruction will show in detail how to make homemade grinding drums for a drilling machine. Drums can be made in different diameters, with different sizes sandpaper. The result of simple manipulations can be a decent set of grinding drums, which will allow you to easily perform any Finishing work.

materials

• Wood;
• steel rod or bolt;
• washers and nuts;
• sandpaper;
• wood glue;
• PVA glue;
• ring drills;
• rubber bands.

Step 1. First you need to determine the diameter of the grinding drum. Start from this, choosing an annular drill for further work.

Step 2. Hole drill, cut from board 5 round blanks. Their number may vary, depending on the height of the board itself and on the height of the drum you want.

Step 3. Fold the finished wooden circles one on top of the other, smearing the touching surfaces with PVA glue. Don't use too much glue. Clamp the resulting bar, with the surfaces not yet glued, in a vise. Check that no circle is out of line. Clamp the drum blank tightly and leave it in a vice until the glue dries completely. The strength of the PVA glue for this stage is quite enough, since in the future the drum rings will be fastened with a bolt.

Step 4. Finished wooden drums be sure to sand. Note that what smaller size drum, the more carefully the processing should be. After sanding the drums, be sure to remove all the dust left after grinding from their surface.

Step 5. Drill the drums by selecting a drill to match the size of the rod or bolt you have. After that, insert a bolt into the resulting hole and secure it with washers and nuts.

Step 6. Now it's time for the final stage. After cleaning the surface of the drums again, coat it with wood glue. cut a piece sandpaper, and butt to joint, glue it to the surface covered with glue. Press the paper firmly against the drum with your hands, smooth and fix the entire structure with rubber bands.

The vast majority of grinding operations in everyday life are carried out manually or using a drill. This is understandable. Buying expensive specialized equipment for use at home, where grinding operations tend to vary greatly in appearance, is not always advisable.

Exist various fixtures for manual and mechanized grinding. All of them can be divided into two main types.

• Tools that directly perform the processing of the part itself are manual devices, which include grinding blocks (blocks, bars) and sanding attachments on a drill or grinder, which are all kinds of support plates and drums.
• Devices that provide the necessary position of the grinding tool relative to the part - guides, support surfaces, etc.

To separate species include devices for dust removal, which, due to the abundance and harmfulness of grinding dust, should also not be neglected.

Hand sanders

The simplest hand-held devices include sanding pads, which can be named: sanding blocks, sanding bars, etc. Depending on their shape, they can process both flat and shaped surfaces.

The sanding block consists of three main elements - a body with a working surface on which the sandpaper is stretched, a clamping mechanism that fixes the sandpaper on the block, and a handle to which force is applied during grinding. The latter may be absent as an independent element, in which case its role is played by the body. The clamping mechanism can also be replaced by other elements that perform its function, for example, or Velcro.

Many types of branded pads are produced, differing from each other in the shape and method of attaching the emery skin. The body is usually made of plastic, working surface which is covered soft material to smooth out irregularities.

The simplest sanding pads are easy to make yourself. Wood is the best for this. It is advisable to paste over the working surface or upholster it with a soft material, such as felt.

Most simple design a bar is two pieces of a board or chipboard, fastened together with screws - in such a way that the skin fits the lower piece, and its ends are clamped between the parts.

With a little more effort, you can make a more functional bar in which the skin will be clamped with a wing nut, which is much faster and more convenient than using screws for this.

For processing large surfaces if for some reason a power tool is not suitable, it is best to make yourself a grinding "planer". Its possible design is shown in the figure below. It is so simple that it needs no explanation. The dimensions of the device are determined by the specific working conditions - the parameters of the processed plane and the physical data of the worker.

Grinding "planer"

For grinding edges that are at a strict 90° angle to the adjacent surface, a tool will be useful to ensure the required right angle. It is shown schematically, the specific implementation can be any.

Device for grinding edges (end view): 1 - base, 2 - handle, 3 - side stop, 4 - stiffener, 5 - sandpaper, 6 - felt strip.

One of the main tasks in the manufacture of homemade bars is the reliable attachment of the skin to them. In addition to mechanical clamps (using screws, nuts, etc.), other methods of attaching sandpaper can be used in homemade sanding bars.

You can just nail it on the ends with small nails. The method is easy to implement, but inconvenient if you have to change the skin often.

An acceptable way to secure sandpaper is by gluing it. Adhesives are suitable for this, making it relatively easy to separate the skin from the base when replacing it.

Sometimes the skins are fastened with wedges. Cuts are made in the bar, into which the edges of the skin are tucked and wooden wedges are driven. Cuts and wedges can be of various sizes.

Devices for drills and grinders

Sanding pads. These nozzles are a disk of plastic or rubber, to which an emery cloth is attached in the form of a circle. Plastic plates have a soft or not very soft layer between the base and Velcro, for better adhesion of the skin to the surface to be treated. The plates for the drill have a shank in the form of a rod, for angle grinders - a thread for screwing them onto the output shaft of the angle grinder. The grinding attachment for the angle grinder can be converted into a drill attachment by screwing an adapter with a shank into it.

But due to the rigidity of the attachment for the grinder, a strictly vertical position of the drill relative to the plane during grinding is practically impossible. When using a rigid cymbal (flexible is easier to work with), any slight tilt will cause the rim of the cymbal to bite into the workpiece and the drill will try to get out of hand, resulting in more angulation and deeper digging into the edge of the circle. This results in well-marked depressions on the machined surface. Therefore, only grinding attachments that can compensate for the tilt of the drill are suitable for the drill: either rubber, or with a thick soft layer between the plastic base and Velcro, or with a movable pin mount.

Rigid cymbals are only suitable for working with a fixed drill, such as shown below.

If you can’t find a suitable nozzle for a grinding drill on sale, and there is a hard nozzle, then you can make a thick soft layer between the plastic base and Velcro with your own hands.

Velcro is carefully cut off with a clerical (construction) knife, and a large round sponge for washing the body is glued as a soft layer. When the sponge is compressed during the grinding process, the symmetry may be broken (the Velcro with the skin is shifted in one direction), but at the speed of the drill (3000 rpm) this is not critical, it will probably not work with the grinder.

Combined nozzles for grinding on a drill are produced, in which the shank can be in two positions relative to the working surface - be rigidly locked with it or have a degree of freedom (unlocked). In the latter case, the working surface of the tool has the ability to adapt to the inclination of the drill, so that the processing is obtained without the formation of recesses. But the price of such devices is close to the price of orbital sanders.

To make the shank movable, the flare nut is twisted (in the photo below with a similar device, it is twisted to the cartridge).

The skin is attached to the plates with Velcro. This method of fastening requires a special sandpaper, on which a Velcro backing layer is applied.

Sanding drums. Grinding drums for a drill are a cylinder with a shank, sanding paper is fixed on the cylinder in the form of an endless tape (an emery cloth tape glued with ends) or a strip of sandpaper with free ends. In contrast to the support plate, in which the working surface is located perpendicular to the axis of rotation, for drums it is located parallel to it.

In order for the skin to sit tightly on the drums, the latter have various tension mechanisms. According to the principle of operation, there are two of them - increasing the outer diameter of the drum (used for an endless belt) and tensioning the abrasive belt using a special mechanism (used for open belts). The increase in the diameter of the drums is realized different ways- pumping them up (for pneumatic models), axial compression (for drums with rubber elements). The tension of an open tape can also be performed in different ways. This is most often done with a rotating screw that tightens the ends of the sandpaper. Below are some options for drums with different type skin tension.

The drum for endless belt sanding can be made by placing rubber spacers between wooden discs. When the axle bolt is tightened, the rubber is crushed, expanding in the radial direction and securely fixing the sanding paper put on the drum.

Grinding fixtures using a drill. Grinding parts with a plate or drum, holding a drill in your hands, is not as easy as it might seem to someone who has never done it himself. In many cases, a better surface can be achieved by holding the tool stationary. Particularly when machining small parts that are easy to handle by hand. There are grinding devices that allow you to fix the power tool, making it completely or partially stationary.

You can use branded drill guides, which are mainly designed for drilling, but can also be successfully used for grinding - mainly with a drum. There are two ways to work with them. By fixing the drill in the guide motionlessly and moving the workpiece relative to the tool (photo A below), or by moving the guides together with the drill relative to the workpiece, pressing the support surface of the guides against the latter (photo B below). In both cases, the tilt of the drum is eliminated, which ensures that the surface is processed at the desired angle.

You can independently make the simplest two-board grinding device, which allows you to ensure that the angle of the grinding edge with respect to the main surface is exactly 90 °.

Dust removal. When sanding wood, a lot of dust is generated, which not only creates inconvenience, but also harms health when inhaled. Dust needs to be dealt with. The easiest way to do this is to suck it up with a vacuum cleaner, placing the hose close to the grinding area.

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Everyone who has been involved construction work, repair, restoration of old doors, windows, window sills, etc., certainly faced the need for the work surface to be even, smooth and sliding. Previously, we picked up sandpaper, if the surface was large, then we strengthened the sandpaper on a wooden trowel and, stocking up on great patience, began the monotonous and monotonous work - grinding. Now, to help professionals and amateurs, a lot of devices have been created, the so-called grinding machines and machines. Using them for various grinding operations, we facilitate the process of manual labor by shifting some of the simple functions to the machine. Today we will talk about grinding machines that are used to process wooden products.

Purpose, classification and scope of grinding machines

Grinding machines are used to reduce the surface roughness of workpieces, as well as to obtain exact dimensions. Grinding is usually the final step in the processing of pre-prepared parts.

When working on grinding machines, grinding materials and tools are used.

Grinding materials - special powders, pastes, abrasive skins.

Grinding tools include - cutting, polishing and grinding, circles, bars and segments.

Depending on the purpose, the machines are divided into several types:

Circular grinding;

Internal grinding;

surface grinding;

Specialized grinding machines.

The classification of machine tools is based on the following features:

Type of surface to be ground (internal or external, cylindrical or flat);

Type of parts that this machine can process (cylinders, shafts, rollers, rails, etc.);

Design features of machines (centerless, planetary, two-column);

Features of elements of workpieces (splines, threads, profiles, etc.).

The area in which grinding machines are used is very wide. Recent advances in machine tool building, as well as the production of parts by casting, stamping, rolling, turning and carpentry, make it possible to use grinding machines instead of turning and milling machines (horizontal boring machines). Now grinding machines can perform the following operations:

Cutting and peeling blanks;

Precise processing of various planes, wheel teeth, rotational surfaces, etc.;

Tool sharpening.

Drum grinder: purpose and main elements

Drum grinder It belongs in appearance to surface grinding, in class - to calibration. The main tool of the machine is grinding wheel, which is made in the form of a cylinder (drum). Usually such a machine is used for woodworking. With it, it is very convenient to grind and calibrate boards, slats and other flat and long wooden details, such as panel surfaces made of chipboard, MDF, solid wood, veneer, etc.

The main elements of the drum type grinder are:

The bed on which all components and parts of the machine are fixed;

Motor that provides rotation of the grinding and feed drums;

Sanding drum;

Mechanism for changing the frequency of rotation of the feed drum

Desktop;

feed drum;

Protective cover;

Device for dust removal;

The mechanism for changing the height of the grinding drum.

How the drum grinder works can be seen in the video.

Some models of drum-type grinding machines on the Russian market

Today on Russian market grinding equipment in the drum grinding machines section, products of various manufacturers are presented. The leading place here is occupied by products under the JET trademark. The American company JET, part of the Swiss holding WMH Tool Group AG, today presents the following industrial and domestic drum grinders:

JET 10-20 Plus. Price: 25000 rub.

Drum grinder with full performance 500 mm (250 mm x 2) is well suited for a small workshop where free space is highly valued.

JET 16-23 Plus. Price: 37000 rub.

Universal grinding machine with great potential and possibilities: production musical instruments, furniture manufacture, kitchen sets, shop and bar equipment, a wide range of carpentry operations.

Double drum sander JET DDS-225. Price: 160,000 rubles.

Very powerful machine, suitable for operation in production conditions.

The Russian Tool Company Enkor, an official dealer of leading foreign manufacturers of tools, equipment, machine tools, etc., offers the Corvette 57 drum grinding machine manufactured in China. The machine is designed to perform preliminary grinding of flat wooden blanks and bring products to a given size, processing varnished and primed surfaces.

Corvette 57 - drum grinder price: 24100 rub.

The German company Elmos Werkzeuge, a manufacturer of power tools, woodworking equipment, garden equipment, presents its Elmos DS 163 drum-type grinder. Price: 16400 rubles. Designed for use in production as an alternative to manual grinders.

Summarizing this summary grinding machines that are offered for purchase on the territory of the Russian Federation, it can be said with confidence that there is a certain choice. You can find machines for use in large-scale production, in small businesses and for use in personal households. As they say: "Any whim for your money."

However, not everyone today is ready to pay a tidy sum for a grinding machine. And the habit left from the time of the Union to do everything from improvised materials and with your own hands, makes modern Kulibins move their convolutions, rustle in the bottom of the barrel and "the eyes are afraid, but the hands do" - to produce a lot of useful and necessary things. Moreover, technologically they are not much inferior to their production counterparts, but in price they are several times cheaper. Below we will see how to assemble homemade drum grinding machine.

DIY drum sander

What it is useful for, we examined above, as well as what it should consist of. Therefore, we take a list of the main elements and begin to look for and collect them. And then let's talk about how to make a drum grinder at home

Engine

Let's start with the engine. The easiest way is to take from the old washing machine. If it is, then half the work is done. From there you can take the entire electrical part, pulleys and belt.

Making a grinding drum

Now about the drum. It can be made from various materials and sometimes, it would seem, completely unnecessary remnants of repair and construction activities. For example, from cut and glued together wooden rings, or four bars cylindrical shape, fixed on a metal axis with epoxy glue, or from a paper pipe on which a roll of linoleum is wound.

Here we will consider in more detail the manufacture of a drum from a piece of PVC pipe. For manufacturing, we need: a steel rod 16-20 mm, a piece PVC pipes diameter 100 mm, wooden plank, screws, rubber, glue. Perhaps everything. The steel rod will be the axis of the drum. We cut off a piece of the required size from the pipe. In length, it is slightly smaller than the rod. We cut out two end caps from wood according to the diameter of the internal section of our PVC pipe. We drill a hole in them for the rod. Plugs are inserted into the pipe and secured with screws. The screw heads must be recessed. We pass our rod through the holes of the plugs and fasten them with epoxy glue. We glue thick rubber on top of the PVC pipe. It will serve as a substrate for the skin and provide it with a better fit to the part. The drum is ready. You can strengthen sandpaper with staples for a stapler or double-sided tape. It is better to glue the tape in a spiral, this will avoid shocks when sanding.

Case and desktop

Wood or 15mm aviation plywood is suitable for the machine body. You can also make a table out of them. We make the body simple and unpretentious: two side panels, a spacer panel in the middle and a desktop consisting of a base firmly attached to the body and a movable part. The working table must be strong and must not bend when pressing the workpiece against the drum. On the feed side, it can be reinforced with an additional cross member, which will also create a support surface for the adjusting screw.

In order to ensure the adjustment of the stroke of the working table relative to the drum, on one side we fasten its movable part to the base with two hinges or a piano loop, and on the feed side we screw it through the middle spacer adjusting screw. It is important to know what the thread pitch of the screw is, then it will be possible to set the required thickness of the part processing.

Mounting

We mount the engine in the lower part of the case. We derive its axis through a hole previously made in the body. In the upper part of the body we install a grinding drum. The axis of the drum rests on two bearings in cages, which are bolted to the side walls. We make the holes for the clips a little larger in diameter. So it will be easier for us to align the drum. We fasten the pulleys on the axis of the engine and the drum and tighten drive belt. We mount the wires and the switch. We screw in the adjusting bolts from the bottom and the clamping bolts on the sides, which will support the desktop at the desired height.

The final touch - the case can be treated with varnish or paint, of course, before installation. Now our homemade drum sander is ready for use. For greater convenience in work, you can add a protective cover over the drum to it. Connect the nozzle from the vacuum cleaner to the casing. This will remove the dust generated during operation.

In conclusion. In this article, we tried to consider issues related to drum-type grinding machines. And you make a choice to work on the device purchased in the store or make it yourself.

Every do-it-yourselfer who works with wood to some extent probably has a separate tool dedicated to sanding, whether on grinder or by hand, but sometimes it happens that the workpiece is round or needs to be sanded inside. In this article I will tell you how the author made grinding drums with his own hands, with the help of which finishing work will not be a burden.

To make this homemade we need materials such as:
* Wooden planks, their thickness may vary, for an average drum it is 15-20mm.
*Steel rod or ready-made bolt.
* Washers and nuts.
*Sandpaper.
* Joiner's and PVA glue.
* Crowns or so-called annular drills.
* Rubber bands for banknotes.

First step. In order to get started, we need to determine the dimensions of the drum, after the dimensions are selected, we select the crown for the same size. With a crown installed in a drilling machine, we drill 5 round blanks, this number can be changed depending on the desired height and the thickness of the blanks themselves.

Second step. Armed with PVA glue, glue the adjacent surfaces of the finished round blanks and clamp them to each other with a vise, observe the gluing accuracy so that one bar does not go beyond the edges of the other. At this stage, the strength properties of PVA glue will be enough.
Wait for it to dry completely, then fix the bolt in the middle in drilled hole and tighten on both sides with nuts, having previously thrown a washer on both sides.

Third step. This step requires a grinder or sandpaper, with the first method it will be easier and faster. We clamp the bolt with the finished drum into the cordless drill and grind it with coarse sandpaper, gradually moving to a finer grit, thereby giving smooth surface our drum.