How to make a mould. Do-it-yourself fishing weights - manufacturing options. Conical sinker from a paper mold

On sale you can find a variety of sinkers for float rods, donks, feeder, spinning and other types of gear. However, some of the anglers are not satisfied with the shape and weight of what is available on the shelves, while others are outraged by the prices. If a fisherman lives in a big city, then there can be no problems with the assortment of sinkers. Only residents of small settlements may experience difficulties with the selection of these elements for some narrow tasks. But the prices bite. Not everyone understands why pay a few dollars for a banal piece of lead. After all, this metal is cheap and widely available. It can be processed and does not require any special industrial conditions for this. Nevertheless, manufacturers and sellers do a fair amount of cheating on finished products. So homemade sinkers are very common. We’ll talk about the features of making fishing sinkers with our own hands.

What to make weights

Most weights are made from lead. It is a low-melting metal, which makes working with it accessible to everyone. The raw material itself can be taken from various sources:

find seals in old garages, insulation from cables;
buy scrap at the acceptance of non-ferrous metals;
melt the plates of old car batteries.

Lead melts at a temperature of 327 degrees. So it can be melted on a regular cooker, from gas burner or at the stake.

This metal is soft and easy to machining: drilled, cut even with a knife, scratched with a fingernail. The original shape is usually made by casting. Holes for attaching to tackle can also be made at the casting stage, or they can be drilled after.

Where to pour sinkers

Lead can also be smelted at home on gas. But I wouldn't recommend doing that. However, lead fumes are harmful. In general, the feasibility should be assessed. Do I need to bother because of a pair of sinkers. If you need to pour a couple of spoons for the donkey, then you can do it on gas. Fortunately, there is no need to invent a form for pouring. If there is a lot of lead and plans for casting products from it, then you should work on the street. They choose a fine day and somewhere in nature or near the garage they kindle a small fire, barbecue. In the air, harmful vapors will quickly evaporate. For safety, you can wear a bandage respirator. Lead is melted in some old ladle with a handle and poured into prepared molds.

Casting molds

There are many methods and materials in the manufacture of molds for casting. The simplest option is casting in wet sand. The very geometry of the voids is formed by a cardboard, for example, rolled up in the form of cones or cylinders. If it means wire fittings, loops, then it is inserted in advance, before pouring the metal.

You can make shapes from wood by cutting, drilling voids. Open forms are possible here, when lead is poured simply into a hole, a hollow. A more advanced option is double-leaf forms, when the cargo profile is assembled from two halves, two recesses in the parts of the form. In order for the halves of the structure to align correctly, guides are made of studs and marked holes. The parts are connected and fixed with wire. Lead is poured into the ingot. When the metal cools, the mold is dismantled. We get a load. It remains to cut off excess metal and correct the edges, if necessary.

You can make molds for casting weights from plaster. Gypsum powder is mixed with water, as indicated in the instructions on the package. fill them up carton boxes, which will serve as halves of the form. To form a void of the desired configuration, a finished product sample is used. If there is no finished sample, then the prototype is cut out of wood or made from papier-mâché. So you can create a unique and rather complex shape.

If it is required to make a sliding sinker with a through hole, then a wire or a nail is inserted into the mold. It is desirable that the surface of the axis be smooth. Additionally, it is lubricated with technical petroleum jelly or grease. Then the guide can be easily removed with the help of pliers.

For the production of sinkers in industrial scale make metal double-leaf molds from steel or aluminum. It is difficult to make such a form. Need access to advanced milling machine with CNC and skills to work with it. For many types of sinkers, similar forms can be purchased online. There are craftsmen who have gone beyond self-casting. They put on stream the production of metal molds and their sale. Look for such people on fishing forums.

Safety

When working with lead, of course, you need to work carefully. Use reliable potholders so as not to burn yourself. Of course, do not put your hands in the area where the molten metal will pour. If anything, keep the shape with special blacksmith gloves. But it is better to use pliers with long handles.

It is necessary to allow the castings to cool well. Lead stays hot for a long time. If forced cooling with water is not used, then it is better to wait 15 to 20 minutes before removing the sinkers from the mold.

Sinkers for float rods

To equip float rods, sets of shop sinkers are sold. As a rule, they are made of a soft lead alloy with some additives. This allows you to easily clamp such notched pellets on the line, even without the help of tools, just with your fingers. Usually they are clamped with pliers.

Many anglers make their own weights for their rods. They take a hunting buckshot. They pierce holes in it with a needle and get excellent sliding weights. It is difficult to cut the buckshot. Because of the additives, it does not always lend itself well. Sometimes it crumbles. So if they want to make clamping weights, then they cast drops from lead. Then they are cut to the middle with a knife.

You can cast a lead stick in some recess. Chop it up into pieces different lengths and use it as weights.

Often a thin plate is cast. It is riveted a little with a hammer, bringing it to the desired thickness. Strips are cut out of it with scissors. Such pieces are bent and clamped on a fishing line. It is very comfortable. You can choose the weight of the weight to the nearest fraction of a gram and perfectly adjust the float.

load spoon

The simplest option for a sinker for a regular donk is a spoon. Prepare some kind of pot or box with wet sand. An ordinary tablespoon is melted into it. They try to maintain the level so that the upper edge is close to the horizontal plane. Molten lead is poured into a spoon. You can adjust the weight of the future sinker. They are poured either with a small slide, which is achieved by the surface tension of the molten metal, or they are not topped up.

When the metal hardens, the spoon is taken out and the lead ingot is thrown into a container of water to cool faster. A hole is drilled in the nose of the spoon for tying a fishing line or rope insert.

Can be poured in a teaspoon or dessert spoon, getting smaller sinkers. The shape of the spoon is good because, due to the large plane, it is well kept at the bottom and is not carried away by the current. The downside is the weight limit. You can not fill in more than fits into this cutlery. Making a weight gradation is also difficult. Standard spoons impose a limit on this with their dimensions.

Homemade sinkers for donoks

The choice of geometry for homemade sinkers for bottom fishing rods is far from limited to spoons. In the course of the pyramids, cones, discs that pour, for example, in sand or primitive wooden forms with samples. The accuracy of execution is not so important here, so they rarely bother with plaster molds. They make sense if there is a request for some complex shaped sinkers. For example, with pimples that increase grip with the bottom.

Fastening to the fishing line is done either through a wire loop, which is poured at the manufacturing stage, or a hole is then drilled in the finished weight.

The simplest sliding sinker for a donkey can be made from a matchbox. A nail is inserted in the middle of the butt, stitching the box through. The box is sunk in wet sand. Pouring lead. When it hardens and cools, pull out the nail with pliers.

The box can be made from cardboard yourself, providing the volume and weight that is required. To do this, cut out a primitive sweep. Something similar is shown to children in kindergarten or elementary school to develop their spatial thinking.

It is clear that rectangular shape not ideal. A more advanced option in terms of aerodynamics is a rhombus. Such a cavity is also easy to make from a cardboard reamer.

Even more complex forms, such as pears, bullets, rockets, can only be cast in a double-leaf mold. Gypsum works best.

Casting jig heads

Many spinners are upset by the high prices for jig head sinkers for rigging silicone lures. These elements are consumable. An angler who often travels and does not bypass promising snarled areas can cut off several hundred lures in a season. This is a serious blow to the pocket. So it is not surprising that there is a search for ways to save money. Someone buys jigs in bulk. This is already providing significant benefits. But some go further. Wholesale buy special hooks for jig heads, with a ring bent at an angle of 90 degrees. Acquire or make molds and pour load-heads on your own.

If you go fishing infrequently and jig is not your main direction, then it may not make sense to get involved. But with a tight occupation with this style of fishing, self-casting loads is the right decision.

Collapsible "cheburashki"

Approximately the same picture and in the discharge loaded "cheburashka". This is another, no less popular, option for mounting soft lures. The weight looks like a lead ball. It has a flat slot. A wire lock is inserted there. Two loops are formed. A hook is wound into the back, and a fishing line is knitted behind the front.

For the manufacture of such weights, there are special metal molds, which can also be purchased via the Internet, on the forums.

The conclusions are simple. If you are just starting your fishing journey. If store forms suit you, and the loss of several ships does not bother you financially, do not waste time. If you are faced with a large consumption of baits and sinkers, then you should definitely consider casting them yourself.

Like different types of baits, sinkers of a certain weight and shape can also be made at home. Of course, not all fishermen are locksmiths or millers, and not everyone has the opportunity to make metal molds, so gypsum or sealant can be used as mold material. Or contact a familiar craftsman at a local factory for a metal mold.

With a successful transaction, you will receive the necessary molds for casting in a day or two. But first you need to take care of determining the exact diameter of the future spherical sinkers and inform the master in order to eventually get the weights of the desired weight.

If you are not strong in mathematical calculations, you can find tables on the net showing the correspondence between the diameter and weight of a lead ball. It is also worth remembering that balls made of lead and, for example, Wood's alloy, with the same dimensions, will have different weight indicators, since lead has a high density.

How to make a casting mold sinker from plaster (video)

Sealant sinker mold

A mold for the manufacture of sinkers or spinning baits can be made independently without much difficulty, using gypsum or silicone sealant , as well as a finished sample. For example, it is easy and, moreover, very unusual to make a mold from a sealant of the type "Hermesil" and the like. The main factor when choosing a sealant is its ability to not change physical properties when exposed to high temperatures.

The upper temperature limits for most common sealants are between 150 and 180°C.

In this regard, the use of pure lead for casting weights is not very appropriate, since its melting point reaches 350°C. But you can take some alloys, namely typographical alloy, Wood alloys or Rosé. Their melting point fluctuates in the range of 60-110 °, and therefore, when using such alloys, the silicone mold will serve you for a long time and casting sinkers will be of good quality.

If lead is taken as the material for the weights, the mold will withstand about 8-10 castings. It is also worth noting that each time the lead sinker will move further and further away from the original ideal due to the gradual burning out of the form from the sealant.

Silicone sealant can be purchased at specialized stores with building materials or in auto shops.

Although such a mold for casting at first glance may seem completely unreliable, in fact it withstands quite high temperature, and due to its properties it will allow you to make a sinker or bait of almost any shape.

Making a mold for casting weights

It's not that hard to make a mold. First, we take a small box and completely fill it with high-quality sealant. When filling, be careful not to form bubbles.

Next original the weight must be lubricated with a solution of wax or paraffin in gasoline. After drying, the sinker on a thin wire is completely lowered into the sealant, but at the same time it should not touch the walls of the box itself.

In this position, the sample weight should remain until the sealant hardens. Due to the characteristics of the sealant, this process can take a couple of days, or drag on for 5-6 days. Do not remove the weight until complete polymerization.

After the substance hardens, we cut out a small hole through which we remove the sinker sample. The elastic shape is ready, which means you can try to make your own weight from lead or its alloy.

The metal is poured through the same hole that you made earlier to extract the original sample weight. Thanks to its unique physical properties the silicone mold makes it easy to take homemade sinkers or baits, after which it returns to its original form and is ready for use again.

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In order to ensure casting of gear at a considerable distance from the shore, as well as for its reliable immersion and fixation at the bottom of the reservoir, almost every fishing gear is equipped with a sinker. Although in exceptional cases any metal object can be used for this purpose suitable weight, a properly made sinker will allow you to fish as efficiently as possible.

What should be the weight

A quality sinker must meet the following parameters:

be heavy - for the manufacture of parts, as a rule, lead is used, which has the highest possible density from the materials available to the fisherman;
have a streamlined shape with perfect smooth surface- when casting gear, aerodynamic forces act on the sinker. The rougher the surface of the sinker, the more rectangular it will be, the shorter the flight of the gear will be when casting, and when playing the fish or removing the gear from the water, more effort will be required to check;
have a reliable fastening for fishing line;
do not stand out against the background of the bottom, so as not to scare away cautious fish;
made from inexpensive materials.

To realize these conditions in practice, it is enough to stock up on the necessary amount of lead and metal or ceramic dishes to melt this metal.

Casting a simple sinker in a spoon

The easiest way to make a lead sinker for bottom tackle is to cast it in an aluminum spoon. You will need the following materials and tools:

lead - you can use old unnecessary sinkers or plates from an acid battery;
aluminum spoon;
capacity for melting lead - the melting point of lead is +327 degrees Celsius, so this operation can be carried out even in aluminum cookware. A steel or ceramic container will also work for this purpose;
steel tongs.

The production of the sinker is carried out in the following sequence:

A container for melting metal is installed on the burner or fire;
Shredded lead is placed in the container;
When the lead is melted, pour the molten lead into the spoon, fixing it in a strictly horizontal position.

When the metal has cooled, it can be easily separated from the aluminum surface of the spoon and used as a sinker.

How to cast a sinker in a spoon

Conical sinker from a paper mold

The advantage of pouring a fishing sinker using a paper mold is the ability to experiment with the geometry of this product. The most common option - pouring into a matchbox - is not recommended, because it turns out a sinker with very poor aerodynamic qualities.

If an aluminum spoon for making lead sinkers can be used repeatedly, then the lead melt poured into a paper mold will make it unsuitable for reuse.

To make a lead conical sinker, you will need:

thick paper;
lead;
melting container;
burner;
sand container.

Making a conical sinker:

A cone of the required shape is made of thick paper;
The top of the cone in its thinnest part is cut off;
Instead of a cut piece of paper, a steel wire is installed in the cone, which, with outside wound with a ring, and a piece of wire installed in a cone has a “mustache”;
A recess is made in the sand container, into which a paper cone with a wire fastener is installed. Installation is carried out with the narrow part of the cone down. If necessary, sand is added to the container, which should completely cover the cone from the outside. In this case, sand should not be allowed to enter the paper funnel;
The melting vessel is heated on a burner or fire, then pieces of lead are added. When the metal is melted, it is poured into a paper mold. After the lead has cooled, the sinker can be used for its intended purpose.

Form for conical sinker

Casting weights in a cement mold

If you need to make a large number of lead products, then a reusable product is required as a mold for casting. Cement molds have excellent characteristics, which allow casting sinkers for fishing of any configuration.

The manufacture of such a device will take some time, so this option is not suitable for the urgent manufacture of a sinker.

To create a form you will need:

cement brand M400 or M500;
metal tape 30-40 mm wide;
blank;
solution container;
metal knitting needle;
scotch;
electric drill and a set of twist drills.

Mold making process:

A circle is made from a metal tape, slightly exceeding the length of the workpiece in diameter;
To prevent the tape from “blooming”, the circle is fixed with adhesive tape;
The resulting ring on one side is tightly closed with adhesive tape;
In two places exactly in the middle of the ring opposite each other, 2 holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm are drilled to install the knitting needle;
A knitting needle is inserted into one hole from the outside, a workpiece is put on it, then the knitting needle is threaded into the opposite hole;
Cement is poured into the solution container in an amount of 200 g, water is added and a solution of a creamy consistency is made;
The solution is poured into a container from a metal tape, exactly up to half. Then you need to wait 24 hours for the solution to harden;
A thin layer of engine oil is applied to the hardened cement surface. Wait 30 minutes for proper distribution of the lubricant;
kneading again cement mortar and poured until the mold is completely filled. We give the form to harden for 3 days;
When the cement mortar is completely dry, the mold is carefully disassembled. First, the knitting needle is removed from the frozen solution, then the adhesive tape is removed and the tape is unraveled;
The resulting concrete washer with a blank inside neatly splits in the middle.

When the form is divided into 2 halves, the sinker blank is removed, and a sprue is made to the void formed in its place. To do this, the two halves of the form are again connected in such a way that the original shape of the sinker is formed inside. Exactly in the middle with a concrete drill, a hole is made to the void inside the mold. The drill is used with a diameter of 6 millimeters. To facilitate the flow of molten lead into the mold, a small reaming of the hole is made with a drill larger diameter before the formation of a funnel. After completion of this operation, the mold will be completely ready for repeated casting of weights.

The process of casting sinkers in a concrete mold is carried out in the following sequence:

The concrete mold is placed in sand, which is preheated in a ceramic or metal container. The sprue must necessarily remain outside, and the ingress of sand into the mold must be completely excluded;
Lead is melted and poured in a thin stream into the sprue;
After the mold and lead have cooled, it must be removed from the sand and carefully disassembled. Thus, you can get at home professional quality sinkers for bottom fishing.

Processing of freshly cast leads

When the sinkers are cast, they must be properly processed. If the lead load was cast in an aluminum spoon, then a hole must be drilled in the metal to attach the fishing line.

The hole is drilled in the narrow part of the sinker using an electric drill and a 2 mm twist drill. Be sure to chamfer the hole with a larger diameter drill, otherwise the sharp edges of the metal will lead to rapid abrasion of the fishing line and breakage of the sinker.

Freshly cast sinkers need to be slightly shaded so that in the water the shine from a flat lead surface does not scare away cautious fish. For this purpose, a concentrated aqueous solution of potassium permanganate is used, in which the part must be kept for several hours.

If, after casting, sagging has formed on the surface of the product, then they must be removed with a velvet file.

When working with lead, it is necessary to remember the rules for the safe handling of heavy metals. It is strictly forbidden to breathe lead fumes, as well as to use kitchen utensils for their intended purpose after contact with this metal.

How to make a sinker for fishing is described in detail in this article, and if you strictly follow all the recommendations, you can get very quality product with excellent aerodynamic qualities.

It is easy to cut a sinker model with a knife from a piece of bark or mold it from plasticine. For a one-time casting, the mold can be stamped in sand or dry earth, but then the surface of the load will be rough. This is the most fast way sinker castings, which can be used directly on fishing.

Gypsum mold for casting weights. If you want to make a mold for multiple casting, then you should use a plaster mold (Fig. 1.).

Rice. 1. Gypsum mold with a groove for pouring lead and air vents

In accordance with the size of the future cargo, make two identical boxes from thick cardboard. In the first, dilute the plaster and make an impression with a sinker model. The impression should be done exactly on half of the model. Do not forget about the lead filling system - for this you should use a nail (if the mold is small) to push through a small groove-groove, expanding towards the end. If you are going to smelt a large load or the quality of the sinker is very important to you, then you should take care of additional grooves to remove air from the mold. When the gypsum hardens, dilute the gypsum in the second box. The frozen mold should be covered with soapy water so that the second one does not stick to it, then put a sinker in it and connect the molds, pressing them tightly against each other. When the plaster hardens, open the molds and remove the model from them. You now have a mold for casting weights that will withstand repeated use.

In order to cast the sinker in your form, it is enough to press the molds tightly against each other, clamping them with a clamp. Then melt the lead and carefully pour it into the mold. It is important that the lead cools on its own, never try to cool it with water (this can ruin the sinker), do not open the mold ahead of time.

Casting sinkers in a wooden form. I am currently using this method. I don’t know about others, but it’s easier for me to melt in a wooden form (Fig. 2.). It's just that I have access to this material, and there is less fuss with wooden forms than with plaster ones, although everyone chooses for himself.

Rice. 2. Wooden molds for casting weights

First you need two planks, the dimensions and thickness of which depend, of course, on the future sinker. I prefer the Red tree– This material is hard and can withstand multiple castings. If you cannot find mahogany, then you can use any hard wood - oak, ash, etc. When the boards are selected, draw on them the contours of the sinker and the lead pouring system. It is important that when combining the parts, the pattern matches, otherwise the sinker will come out uneven. Next, use a cutter or chisel to cut out the recesses. Make them a little deeper than necessary: at first glance, they will appear deep, but when cast, the load will come out flat. To enable the sinker to be attached to the line, insert a wire eyelet into the mold as shown in Fig. 3.

Rice. 3. Options for the location of the wire ear: a - external; b - internal, in a special groove

The external location of the eye does not require any additional effort, but with an excessive amount, the lead will fill the eye, and it is not easy to pick it out from there. The second option requires an additional groove, but then there will be no fuss. You choose! When you decide on the location of the lug, insert it into the mold and align the parts, clamping them with a clamp (Fig. 4.).

Rice. 4. Mold ready to be cast

It is very important that there are no gaps between the forms - lead can spread and the load will not come out. Work in a well ventilated area as the mold will smoke a little. In order for the load to come out neat, melt only the amount of lead that is necessary to fill the volume of the mold without the volume of the lead supply groove (this is true when using the external method of attaching the lug). Do not attempt to separate the molds until the lead has solidified completely - you may break the load.

When the lead has cooled, carefully open the molds and remove the load by the eye. All seams and inaccuracies can be sanded with sandpaper. If the molds have shifted and the load has not come out, then it can be melted down again, without forgetting to add a little lead, since in the process of melting it burns out and decreases in volume. If you want to make a sliding weight, then instead of an eye, insert a nail into the mold. When the lead has hardened, use a pair of pliers to remove the nail and insert an empty ballpoint pen in its place. The rod is needed so that the lead does not fray the fishing line.

Smelting sinker in a potato tuber. I have been fishing and smelting sinkers for a long time. During this time I have tried many different ways. I was constantly looking for a casting mold that would always be at hand, which was not difficult to make, in which the most intricate shapes of sinkers could be cast. And, probably, I found it - this is a potato tuber. Yes, yes, ordinary potatoes. For the first time, a familiar fisherman told me about this method.

The form is performed in this order. To obtain a molding cavity in the tuber right size and shape, it is necessary to make a metal model of the future cargo (most often conical). The model can be drawn on lathe or using an electric drill with a file, holding the workpiece in the chuck. The tuber must be chosen large so that the wall thickness is sufficient. Then, the casting cavity is preliminarily selected with a knife. Further, heating the model to a temperature at which it, in contact with the tuber, will leave a “crust” on it, we will process the cavity of the future form. The meaning of this treatment is to deprive the surface layer of the tuber of moisture, where the molten lead will contact the potatoes, and if there is more moisture than necessary, you can get burned, since the metal will turn the steam into the water contained in the tuber, and the steam, escaping outside, can push out of the cavity and molten metal. This will not threaten you if the walls are dried and covered with a layer of rosin 1-2 mm thick. In any case, the first pouring of the mold should be carried out very carefully, the metal should be fed in small portions. Each casting will dry out the walls of the mold more and more, and soon the mold will reach its operating mode.

Rice. 5. Potato tuber with a fastening eye

On a strong current, you can make a load with lugs (Fig. 6.). To do this, it is necessary to insert an elastic wire into the finished form at different angles. But in this case, the form can only be used once, since the tuber will have to be cut to extract the load. After the tuber is cut and the load is removed, cut off the excessively long wire or bend its ends into different sides. The cargo is ready. It is best used on a sandy bottom. So with a smaller mass of cargo in a strong current, it will securely fix the equipment.

Rice. 6. Grouser Sinker

This method of casting is quite interesting, but I think that the use of a potato tuber for purposes far from food is rather unethical, so I very rarely use this method.

Simple Options

The simplest is the manufacture of lead sinkers using a plaster or sand mold. This method has a number of undoubted advantages:

The use of lead and gypsum in self-smelting sinkers has several significant nuances:

at a temperature of about 200 ° C, water begins to actively evaporate from gypsum, which leads to the destruction of its structure and splitting of the product;
lead is pressed into gypsum when solidified, which makes it almost impossible to remove the sinker without destroying the mold;
gypsum blank has a large number of micropores, which leads to the need for polishing the finished product.

When using sand instead of gypsum, the process of preparing the mold is greatly simplified, however, the requirements for the material of the box in which the workpiece will be located when pouring lead are increased, it is desirable to use a metal support. The product itself will be somewhat less aesthetic and will require serious polishing.

Making simple disposable molds

The fragility, destruction of the structure of gypsum during the evaporation of water makes it difficult to use this material for reusable use. However, as a disposable and easy-to-make mold, gypsum is the best fit.

To make a shape for a simple sinker, you need:

by the very in a simple way making a cone sinker is to use a paper cone in the sand:

A paper blank (a piece of paper rolled into a cone) is inserted into any dish densely filled with sand, a metal loop for a sinker is inserted into the sharp end of the cone;
Lead is melted and poured into a paper cone;
Part of the cone burns out, but during this time the lead has time to cool down a bit and begin to harden;
The cooled workpiece is removed from the sand and processed with a file.

Aluminum foil can be used instead of paper.

The material for the sinker is also quite common and affordable, so even complex sinkers can be made independently using the appropriate blanks.

Forms for regular use

A gypsum mold, even very well made and dried, will sooner or later collapse and you will have to make a new one or use a product suitable for frequent use.

Of course, molds made of heat-resistant steel or cast iron are best suited for repeated use, but it is almost impossible to make such molds on your own. But cement is well suited for creating a melting mold, although this will require a little work.

Materials and tools for a reusable form:

formwork material (wooden boards);
liquid soap;
cement;
round file;
fine sandpaper;
clamp;
cylinders for laying in the filler hole;
wire for making loops for a sinker.

For repeated use, molds made of heat-resistant steel or cast iron are best, but it is almost impossible to make them yourself. How to increase the catch of fish?

For 7 years of active passion for fishing, I have found dozens of ways to improve the bite. Here are the most effective ones:

Biting activator. This pheromone supplement is the strongest lure for fish in cold and warm water. .
Raise gear sensitivity. Read the appropriate manuals for the particular type of tackle.
Lures based pheromones.

Making a reusable cement mold

The creation of a cement mold is quite time consuming, this is due to the relatively long solidification of the mixture.

The process of creating a form looks something like this:

Formwork is being made, preferably collapsible;
The inner surface of the formwork is covered with liquid soap and installed on flat surface, also treated with soapy water;
The formwork is filled with cement mortar;
into uncured cement, the desired workpiece is half immersed;
The cement must be completely dry., it may take 1-2 days;
After the cement has completely dried, the formwork is disassembled and reassembled for the next filling;
First frozen half, together with the protruding workpiece, is lubricated with soap;
The second half of the form is being prepared, cement is poured into it;
First half with surface, covered with soapy water, is installed on the second part of the mold;
The cement hardens again;
After the cement has dried in both halves of the mold, with a round file, central cone-shaped holes are bored in each half for pouring lead, two side channels are also made for air exhaust;
Sinker mold surface processed with sandpaper;
Before pouring the mold halves tightly fastened with a clamp.

Molds for casting multiple weights

For faster work, you can make molds for several sinkers at once. For formwork, you can use a grate from neon lamps.

Additional assistance may be required when preparing the mold for multiple blanks, as it may not be possible to place all the blanks before the material used has set.

The porosity of the plaster mold and the tendency of lead to stick when cured can be greatly reduced using chalk or talc to process inner surface molds to fill in the voids and create a layer between the lead and plaster.
To increase the service life of the plaster mold, you can impregnate and treat it from the inside with a sealant to reduce the evaporation of water when pouring metal. It won't last long, but it will probably last a few more uses.
In the manufacture of small sinkers to create outlet channels ordinary matches or nails can be used by simply sticking them into the mold material until it hardens.
Instead of soapy water and vegetable oil You can use silicone grease.