Encyclopedia of Fire Safety

How to make a septic tank for a summer house with your own hands: construction technology and recommendations. Sewerage outside the city - homemade septic tanks as an alternative to ready-made VOCs Do-it-yourself septic tank in your home

Installing a septic tank is a necessity for residents living in private houses that do not have a connection to a central sewer system. Until recently, in almost all private houses, the role of the toilet was replaced by cesspools. But their presence has its drawbacks:

  • There is a possibility of sewage penetrating into the soil (and even groundwater), which significantly reduces the ecology of the site;
  • An unpleasant odor from such a toilet can spread throughout the entire area;
  • Frequent pumping and cleaning of the cesspool, which upsets the balance of the soil.
Installation of a septic tank in a private house

The topic of this article is installation of a septic tank in a private house with your own hands. From it you will learn how to make a septic tank yourself and what you will need for this.

Septic tank design - cleaning system

Currently, there are several models of septic tanks that you can build with your own hands. Since a septic tank is a hermetic structure (this is its main difference from a cesspool), the possibility of soil contamination is minimal. Before you begin installing the septic tank, it is necessary to most accurately determine its location, taking into account the height of its location groundwater and the direction of their movement. In addition, the volume of wastewater that will be processed should be calculated.

According to their cleaning principle, septic tanks for a private home are divided into:

  1. Cumulative. These are ordinary sealed containers dug deep into the ground and connected to drain pipes walking from home. Such septic tanks can be made of plastic (they can be purchased at the store), or a reinforced concrete ring is installed in the pit. You can also concrete the walls cement mortar. But from such septic tanks it is necessary to periodically pump out the contents with a sewer truck. This may cause some inconvenience.
  2. Septic tank - settle down j. It consists of two or three chambers (which is much preferable), interconnected, and which have special drainage. Iron can be used as a material for a septic tank concrete rings, you can lay out the walls of brick. Since in this case several chambers are used, wastewater purification occurs in several stages.

The wastewater enters the first chamber through a pipe coming from the house. In it, substances that are heavier than water sink to the bottom, and lighter ones remain on the surface. The water settles and moves to the second chamber. Here the water settles again and gets rid of smaller impurities that did not settle in the first chamber. And after this, the wastewater flows into the third chamber, where the cleaning process ends. As a result, the output is water, which can be safely discharged into the ground. Each compartment on the surface has a hatch, which allows for cleaning and flushing of the septic tank. Such a septic tank in a private house is, in a way, local treatment plant.

When installing a septic tank, certain norms and rules must be observed:

  • There must be a distance of at least 3 meters from the house from which wastewater is discharged to the septic tank;
  • From the septic tank to the fence separating neighboring areas, the distance is at least 3 meters;
  • It is necessary to take into account differences in height;
  • It is advisable to install a septic tank on a flat, open area;
  • It is necessary to calculate the volume for the septic tank, taking into account that the maximum volume of waste water falls on the first tank. The containers should hold three days' worth of wastewater. It is recommended to provide the necessary reserve volume of the septic tank in case of a possible increase in the size of the sewer.
  • For the normal functioning of the septic tank, it is necessary to periodically check and clean the containers;

Proper planning and design of the septic tank design will ensure the smooth functioning of the drainage system in a private home. We hope that you will be able to install a septic tank in a private home.

See also video:

Septic tank for a private house


  • How to make a toilet in the country without smell and pumping...

Let’s ask ourselves a simple question: what is needed for a comfortable stay in country house? The answer to this is obvious to anyone who was forced to use the “conveniences” in the yard.

Decorative finishing, landscape design and other decorations will not be made without a properly functioning sewage system a private house a complete alternative to a city apartment.

A familiar attribute of rural “comfort” - a cesspool, above which a primitive backlash-closet proudly rises - today gives way to a more efficient structure - a septic tank.

The main difference between a septic tank and a cesspool is that that water flowing out of it does not contain biological contaminants.

In a cesspool, all wastewater gradually seeps into the ground, polluting the upper aquifer. It is clear that drinking such liquid even after boiling is unsafe.

A properly designed septic tank for country house does not create an unpleasant odor and does not require frequent pumping. Its design cannot be called complex, so the construction of such a structure can be done without special costs do it yourself.

How does a septic tank work?

First, a little theory. The capacity of the septic tank directly depends on the daily volume of sewage from the toilet and kitchen. If 3 people permanently live in a dacha, then the daily amount of waste, as a rule, does not exceed 400 liters.

However, we will not dig a septic tank of exactly this volume, because it must not only accept wastewater, but also dilute it to a safe concentration. Therefore, the working volume of a septic tank for a family of 3 people must be at least 1 m3 (1000 liters). The hole for it needs to be dug wider and deeper to the thickness of the walls and bottom (15-20 cm).

Anyone who wants to make a septic tank with their own hands competently and efficiently must understand the principle of its operation. You can make a demonstration model of such a structure in your kitchen by taking an ordinary plate and filling it to the brim with water. We will assume that this is the bowl of our septic tank. Now let’s add a little water into it and see that exactly the same amount of liquid has flowed over the edges of the plate.

This is exactly how the simplest single-chamber septic tank works. First, it is filled to the level of the outlet pipe clean water. After this, each new portion of sewage dissolves in its volume, increasing the overall liquid level by several centimeters. This excess flows into a drain pipe laid in a trench with filter soil.

Figure 1 schematically shows the structure of a septic tank in a country house from which it can be seen that his drain pipe is smooth. However, in reality this is not the best option, because not everything that goes into the septic tank falls to the bottom. “Something” floats freely on the surface, so it can go along with the water into the drainage trench, which is very undesirable.

To eliminate this problem, the end of the outlet pipe is made bent, lowering it 5-10 cm into the water. This simple solution reliably cuts off floating sewage from the waste pipe.

In practice, I made this withdrawal very simply. I used a standard plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, and attached a regular shaped “90 degree angle” to its end.

Septic tank design

The word construction in this context sounds loud. In fact, in order to build a septic tank in a private house, I had to dig a rectangular hole 1.4 meters deep, 1.2 meters wide and 1.6 m long. As a result, I got a volume of 2.68 m3.

This may seem like too much, but do not forget that 60 cm in length and 15 cm in depth will “eat up” the walls of the concrete bowl. Therefore, its final volume will not be 2.68 m3, but only 1.46 m3. In addition, the septic tank needs a concrete cover with reinforcement, which will take another 0.17 m3 of its volume.

Our supply and waste pipes will not lie on the ground, so installing them at a depth of 0.2 meters from the bottom of the septic tank lid will reduce its useful volume by another 0.23 m3. As a result, my septic tank will contain 1.46 - 0.17 - 0.23 = 1.06 m3, that is, exactly as much as is needed for a family of 3 people.

The construction of the tank begins with the installation of formwork in a dug hole. Any flat boards will do for this. I made a frame from them and covered it with regular 5 mm plywood. In order to heavy concrete If you don’t “kick out” the formwork, you need to install spacers made of thick bars on top and diagonally of the formwork. Dry clay soil- a good replacement for formwork, so I used its walls in this capacity.

To avoid cracks in concrete walls For the septic tank, I reinforced them with steel wire with a diameter of 5 mm, installing it vertically and horizontally along the entire perimeter of the formwork. I started concreting from the bottom of the pit, laid concrete 15 cm thick there. The solution for preparing concrete was made strong in a cement-sand ratio of 1 to 3.

Since the thickness of the walls is relatively small (15 cm), I brought small crushed stone for concrete (the “seed” fraction is 5-10 mm). After pouring the formwork, the concrete must be given time to gain strength. 2 weeks will be enough for this. It gains brand strength according to SNiP in 28 days.

This is how my single-chamber homemade septic tank turned out after removing the formwork. After removing the panels, do not forget to treat the walls of the concrete container with a waterproofing liquid.

The lid of the container does not have to be made too thick, but it must be well reinforced with steel reinforcement with a thickness of at least 14 mm, placing it every 20-30 cm.

How to make formwork for the lid? Here's the question! We won’t be able to remove it later. The best way out of the situation would be a regular galvanized corrugated sheet, in the “rivulets” of which the reinforcement fits comfortably.

Just don't forget to make a distance gap. To do this, all the reinforcing bars around the perimeter of the lid must be raised by 3-4 centimeters and a profiled sheet of formwork must be tied to them with wire (every 15-20 cm) (Fig. 2)

What to do if the soil is clayey?

An ordinary cesspool will “work” normally only in sandy soil, which absorbs waste well. If the soil on the site is loamy or clayey, then only wastewater from the toilet can be directed into the cesspool. Large volumes of dirty water from the kitchen and shower cannot be dumped into it, because after 1 week it will overflow (clay prevents water from quickly absorbing into the soil). It turns out that alternatives to a septic tank when permanent residence does not exist in a private home or country house.

What to do if nature has not blessed your site sandy soil? We will eliminate this problem by properly designing a drainage trench.

The outlet pipe through which treated wastewater enters the ground must have many small holes. Today there are ready-made ones on sale corrugated pipes, in which the factory has already punched drainage holes.

Since the soil on my site is clayey and absorbs water very poorly, I bought a drainage pipe 15 meters long. I laid 10 meters in a straight line, and the remaining “tail” was turned at an angle of 45 degrees around the corner of the house to the fence. To be on the safe side, I provided an additional reserve: if the absorbency of the soil at such a length were not enough, then I would dig another 7-8 meters of drainage trench along the fence.

However, as tests after completion of construction showed, 15 meters of drainage pipe was enough for the waste to be safely absorbed into the soil.

Clay soil, although slowly, still absorbs water, so to increase the area of ​​contact with it drainage pipe should lie in a layer of coarse crushed stone. It receives the bulk of the incoming water and distributes it evenly over the entire area of ​​the trench.

Important detail! To protect against silting, crushed stone must be “packed” in geotextiles - synthetic fabric with numerous micro-holes. The general design of the drainage trench that I built at my dacha is shown in Figure 3.

For frost protection- the main enemy of the septic tank during severe frosts, you need to lay a layer of sheet foam at least 5 cm thick on the crushed stone of the trench and the lid of the container. After this operation, the entire structure can be safely covered with a layer of soil 15-20 cm thick.

Bacteria will come to the rescue

Despite the simplicity of the design, a single-chamber septic tank works efficiently and completely removes all domestic waste. However, for better cleaning he needs our help. To do this, a dry culture of bacteria is added to the septic tank, which accelerates the process of biological decomposition of sewage thousands of times, breaking it down into safe components - water and carbon dioxide.

The choice of such drugs today is quite large. Products for cesspools from the Bioseptic line and other companies are sold in almost every hardware store. By pouring the required portion of these microscopic workers into the septic tank, we will purify the wastewater to such a state that you can safely water your garden with it.

For their successful operation, one thing must be observed important condition– no chlorine in wastewater. Therefore, immediately switch to oxygen-containing ones detergents and do not pour other “caustic chemicals” down the drain.

That's all that's useful practical advice, which will help you bring the comfort of your dacha closer to the city level.

The dream of any summer resident is a smoothly functioning sewer system. To save money, many try to equip the sewer system with their own hands, building a storage well from improvised materials. In this case, the choice is small - a simpler one, or a multi-chamber septic tank with the ability to filter liquid into the ground.

Morally obsolete cesspools require increased attention during maintenance - storage tank It gets full quite often. In such cases, you need to call a vacuum cleaner or clean the pit yourself. It’s difficult to call this work pleasant.

A characteristic smell curling around sewer drain and the need for regular cleaning make traditional sewers obsolete structures requiring urgent modernization.

Purpose of septic tanks

Transitional option between cesspool and a modern station biological treatment is already mentioned, built taking into account all technical and sanitary standards.

Its direct purpose is to settle the liquid with its subsequent filtration into the soil. A septic tank protects the environment from substances hazardous to human health. Having gone through the process of settling, followed by rotting, clarification of wastewater and filtration of liquid into the ground, sewage waste becomes safe.

Of course, such processing cannot be called 100% effective. If they drain into the sewer aggressive chemicals– , medications, alcohol, alkalis, it is almost impossible to get rid of them. In such cases, experts recommend installing volumetric sealed septic tank and regularly pump out its contents, preventing soil contamination. In other cases, it is possible to install a structure with a filter chamber that does not require regular pumping.

Device and materials

A homemade septic tank should consist of two, and better than three tanks connected to each other by pipes into a single structure based on the principle of communicating vessels.

The first tank is intended for receiving waste water and preliminary settling. The volume of this compartment is half of the total capacity of the entire structure. After filling the reservoir, the liquid flows freely into the second chamber, in which sedimentation also occurs - heavy organic fractions settle to the bottom and undergo rotting without oxygen, and the liquid gradually becomes clearer.

The third tank is for filtration. Its bottom is perforated. Approximately a third or more of the compartment is filled with any filter material. For example, broken red brick or crushed stone. An additional sand cushion up to 0.5 meters thick is placed under the reservoir, ensuring reliable purification of water before it seeps into the ground. Also, water from the third tank can be diverted to additional filtration fields or drained into.

Sludge settled at the bottom of settling tanks must be pumped out once or twice a year to ensure proper operation sewerage.

To build such a treatment plant, craftsmen use a variety of Construction Materials and containers:

  • Bricks. The clinker type of this building material is used. Construction requires certain skills in working with masonry. The outside is additionally waterproofed with special mastic and backfilled with clay. The inside of the well must be covered with cement mortar.
  • Concrete. The bottom is poured, followed by the construction of formwork and the construction of concrete walls. The structure is strengthened at the pouring stage using iron reinforcement. The finished structure is treated with sealant.
  • Concrete rings are a lightweight version of a concrete structure. Typically, no more than four rings are used so that the septic tank does not sag under its own weight during operation. For work it is necessary to involve special equipment or use a winch. The seams between the rings are carefully concreted and processed bitumen mastic to ensure waterproofing.
  • Plastic or metal containers are sufficient budget material. Especially if used barrels are used. The disadvantages of metal include its susceptibility to corrosion processes, which cannot be said about plastic. Plastic barrels or Eurocubes are resistant to humidity and any aggressive environment and tolerate well low temperatures and soil pressure.

When choosing a building material, you must consider:

  • features of sewerage use (quality of incoming water);
  • depth of groundwater - if it is located high, it is prohibited to use filter wells;
  • quality of building material;
  • your construction skills and financial capabilities (for example, not everyone knows how to do masonry on their own, and working with concrete rings will require the presence of special equipment).

Device diagram

When placing sewerage on a site, first of all, its distance from residential buildings, roads, public reservoirs, and personal sources is taken into account. drinking water. Basic sanitary and technical standards are prescribed in a special document - SNIP.

According to these requirements, septic tanks must be placed:

  • no closer than 50 meters from a well or borehole;
  • 10 meters from rivers and 30 meters from reservoirs;
  • 5 meters from houses and roads;
  • a meter from the boundaries of the site and 3 meters from fruit trees.
The depth of groundwater must be taken into account! Filtration cannot be carried out when it lies high to the soil surface.

The bottom of the prepared pit is lined with sand cushion(20-30 cm). At the location of the filter well, sand is poured up to 50 cm. Gravel or crushed stone is laid on the sand, and then concrete pouring floor. On this reliable foundation A septic tank structure is being installed. It is recommended to further secure plastic containers to prevent them from floating up and being squeezed out of the ground.

Wells or containers are connected in series with each other using plastic pipes. Their installation is carried out using tees and sealant. The septic tank hatches are insulated, and the settling tanks are equipped with ventilation risers. Ventilation is especially important if special sewerage systems that are sensitive to oxygen supply will be used.

How to make a septic tank with your own hands

As a DIY design, you can consider concrete septic tank.

Materials

To carry out the work you will need the following tools and building materials:

  • sand and cement;
  • boards for formwork;
  • reinforcement to strengthen the structure;
  • concrete mixer or container for mixing the solution;
  • shovels and buckets for earthworks;
  • drill.

The working process

Work order:

  1. The pit is dug taking into account all sanitary standards - at the required distance from residential buildings and other objects located on the territory. It is believed that it needs to be deepened to a sand layer or crushed stone. These soil layers will ensure proper filtration of the liquid.
  2. Formwork is installed from boards around the perimeter of the pit. Using a drill, holes are made in it, which will later be used for drainage (installation of trimmings). plastic pipes).
  3. Then jumpers are installed (there is no need to make drainage holes in them!) with blanks in the form of holes for overflow pipes.
  4. IN finished design Sewage and overflow pipes are installed from wood.
  5. At the next stage, pouring is performed (two parts of crushed stone and sand are taken for one part of cement). Used for reinforcement metal corner, fittings, rods.
  6. The formwork is dismantled after the concrete has completely dried. Partitions inside the septic tank (between compartments) can be made of old brick.
  7. The entire structure is treated from the inside with sealant for additional waterproofing.
  8. The top floor is made of concrete. Reinforcement is used for reinforcement. Holes are left in the ceiling for ventilation risers made of asbestos cement or polyvinyl chloride. A technical hatch is also installed to remove sludge.

Important points

At construction work It should be noted that technical errors can lead to improper operation of the entire sewer system.

To avoid trouble, you must:

  • ensure a sufficient slope of the sewer drain towards the septic tank;
  • avoid sharp turns of pipes to protect the system from clogging;
  • arrange the slope of the overflow pipes between the compartments of the septic tank (the inlet pipe should be located higher than the outlet!);
  • do not build filter wells when high level groundwater is unsafe for environment, cottage residents and neighbors.

Selection of bacteria

To make the septic tank more efficient, it is recommended to use bacteria. Two types of bacteria are suitable for processing sewage: aerobic (oxygen-dependent) and anaerobic (putrefactive). Anaerobic bacteria live in any conditions, but aerobic bacteria are extremely sensitive to oxygen. To ensure their vital functions, a septic tank must be equipped, or at least ventilation pipes.

When choosing bacteria, it is necessary to take into account that they come in several types:

  • universal, suitable for any conditions and purposes;
  • living in wastewater with a high content of fats and household chemicals;
  • used to preserve sewage systems for the winter;
  • used to start a septic tank in the spring.

You also need to read customer reviews, instructions and product range, and make a choice in favor of a reliable brand.

Such equipment plays a very important role in the waste processing complex.

Do you want to qualitatively modernize your pumping station? Then make an ejector with your own hands! How - read in.

Are you planning to move to Penza? Find out how things are with the environmental situation there by reading the material at the link.

How much does a septic tank cost?

It is impossible to answer this question unequivocally. Everything will depend on what materials were used during the construction process.

For example, a concrete ring can be purchased at a price of 1,200 rubles. A Eurocube will cost 2,500-3,000 rubles per cubic meter of volume. Calling in special equipment also significantly increases the cost of a homemade septic tank. One hour of operation of a truck crane in the Moscow region costs from 900 rubles. And the recess of one cubic meter soil with an excavator from 10,000 rubles.

It’s not that difficult to make a septic tank for a private home with your own hands. To do this, you need to choose the right model and, following the instructions or advice of professionals, install it correctly. You will find instructions on the Internet with many photos and videos. In our article we will talk about how to choose the necessary septic tank and install it, and the advice of the experts will be very helpful in completing the installation in accordance with sanitary standards. After all, it’s worth considering that a homemade device will cost much less, but will do the job no worse than a factory one.

Initially, these were any storage tanks for wastewater, which were cleaned only with the help of specialist machines. Technology has advanced much further in this century, and modern devices can process wastewater before a second use, for example, for watering plants.

The principle of operation of the installations is that wastewater from the house enters special tanks, where solid particles fall down and ferment. After some time, the clarified liquid enters the soil, where anaerobic bacteria that live in the soil begin further processing. Such processes in two stages can purify water by 90-95%.

Attention! This section describes the essence of the operation of the simplest septic tank, which you can easily do yourself. And you ask: how to make a septic tank with your own hands? This is very easy, but for this you need to accurately perform the calculations. You can watch the installation mechanism in the video.

Why should you choose a septic tank for your home?

If before the only one autonomous sewerage If there was a pit, today it is in most cases not suitable for use. Let's look at these options in more detail:

  • The volume of waste has increased significantly. This was influenced by the development of civilization and technological progress. Many people now have washing machines, dishwashers, bathtubs, Jacuzzis, bidets and many other innovations. Building a cesspool with so much waste is simply not rational, so very often you will have to pump it out, and this will hit you hard.
  • The construction of a pit is dangerous for the environment, since it is not airtight;
  • The cesspool emits a very unpleasant odor.

Attention! The simplest septic tank for a private home does not face such problems, since the wastewater in it is treated.

Determining the size of the septic tank

When determining the size of the device we need, we calculate the average volume of waste waste over a period of time - 3 days. To calculate such parameters as depth, volume, width, we need to know that the average daily norm waste water per person – 200 l. This takes into account all drains: from the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, washing machine and others. That is, in three days – that’s 600 liters. Now we know the approximate volume of a septic tank per person.

Attention! Thus, we can find out minimally required volume septic tank, but you need to remember that guests or additions may appear in your home. We recommend that you immediately estimate the size with a small margin.

If we have calculated the volume, then the remaining parameters will be easier. They are derived using simple mathematical formulas.

Requirements and standards for a septic tank

Before you start assembling our device, you need to familiarize yourself with the generally accepted standards and requirements for a septic tank. So:

  • Compliance of the volume of the septic tank with waste. The mechanism will work better if its volume is greater than the consumption of the residents of the house for three days.
  • Waterproofing. To prevent unsafe consistency from getting into the ground, the septic tank must be sealed.
  • Thermal insulation. For bacteria to work properly, there must always be a positive temperature. This is usually used when there are hot drains.
  • Good ventilation. It is necessary to remove harmful gases, such as methane, which is a waste product of microorganisms.
  • The number of chambers in the device depends on the volume of waste. The most used one is a two-chamber one. But if more than 10 cubic meters of water are drained, then it is necessary to install another chamber.
  • Suitable installation location. It must be chosen based on sanitary standards and the architectural features of the country house.

Primitive septic tank scheme

The septic tank diagram should consist of the following parts:

  • Cameras;
  • Walls and bottoms that are lined with concrete;
  • Aeration fields. Filtration field for post-treatment.

Important! More detailed information you can get from large quantity video on the Internet. Also there you will find photos of septic tank schemes that have already been implemented.

Video on how to choose the right location for a septic tank?

When you plan to do the construction yourself and install a septic tank, you need to choose the right place, since there are certain sanitary requirements.

Let's look at the most basic options:

  • The distance between sewerage treatment systems and residential buildings must exceed 5 meters, and between them and outbuildings more than a meter.
  • You should also maintain a distance from places where water is collected, such as wells. The distance depends on the type of soil and is 20-80 m. In addition, the level of the septic tank should be higher.
  • It is strictly forbidden to place them close to the road and neighboring wells;
  • For future cleaning, it is necessary to leave the entrance to them.

What can a septic tank be made from?

At the first stages of construction, we need to choose what we will make it from. To do this, we need to familiarize ourselves with the types homemade devices and then you will figure out how to make a septic tank with your own hands.

For this structure, you need to choose a material that, first of all, will withstand the pressure of sewage. The most popular are:

  • Eurocube;
  • Reinforced concrete rings.
  • Reinforced concrete rings for the construction of wells.

Using these materials, making a septic tank for a private home with your own hands will not be so difficult and will be very affordable.

Attention! You can also make a septic tank from rings of concrete, brick and various containers.

Video of building a septic tank from monolithic concrete

You need to perform actions in the following sequence:

  • The bottom and walls of the chamber must be filled with concrete B15 and higher;

Attention! For 1 cubic meter of solution you need: 600 kg of sand, 1200 kg of crushed stone, 400 kg of cement, 200 liters of water and 5 liters of superplasticizer C3.

  • The bottom is reinforced with metal rods with a diameter of 10 mm and a cell size of 20 by 20 cm;
  • Have to do concrete layer not less than 3 cm;
  • After finishing work on the bottom, we wait 2 weeks, then we can start working on the walls;
  • The thickness of the wall should be 20 cm, and the partition - 15 cm;
  • Wall reinforcement is identical to working with bottom reinforcement;
  • After the walls have dried, fill in the coating.

We build a septic tank from well rings

This construction of a septic tank is very reliable and durable in operation, and a simple diagram allows you to assemble it yourself. However, there is a small nuance - to install such heavy rings you will need equipment.

So, let's look at the rules and features for installing such a septic tank:

  • For installation it is necessary to resort to the help of technology;
  • It is correct to make the lower part of the chamber from a concrete ring that has a bottom or to concrete the surface yourself;
  • For the upper part you need to buy special rings with holes for mounting the hatch;
  • Rings placed one on one must be fastened with metal plates, which will protect the structure from damage;
  • It is necessary to waterproof all joints in order to maintain the integrity of the structure;
  • Backfill layers should be 30 cm thick made of cement and sand.

Video of installation of a septic tank made of concrete rings

In most cases, such a device is built at a depth of less than 4 m. For this, 4-5 concrete rings are useful, since the height of one is about a meter. It is worth considering that the weight of one ring is approximately 600 kg, so you may need a crane or other equipment. But, if the rings are in your yard, then you can do it yourself. The first thing we do is decide on the number of containers.

If the rings are of high quality, then they can be moved around the territory. It’s difficult to do this alone, but with the support of your friends you can do it. We place the ring in the place where installation is planned, and dig out a pit inside the ring, which will constantly descend into the pit. As soon as the upper end reaches the level of the horizon with the ground, it will be possible to install the remaining concrete structures. To avoid mixing the rings, we tie them together.

The next stage is waterproofing. This means that all seams and joints of the structure must be coated with cement mortar. This septic tank will serve you efficiently and reliably!

We make a septic tank from Eurocubes

From of this material make the device even easier to clean. In any hardware store you can buy ready-made eurocubes. What it is? They are sealed containers that are ideal for creating a septic tank. The only thing that needs to be done is a way out for ventilation system and transfers between devices. When this is done, we can easily connect the tanks and mount the resulting structure into the pit.

Numerous videos on the Internet can tell you about the advantages of such structures, where you can see how the septic tank works.

Here small rules installation of such structures:

  • The hole must be made half a meter deeper than in the calculations;
  • The walls of the pit should be at a distance of 25 cm from the structure;
  • One camera is mounted 20 cm lower than the other;
  • The pipe connected by a tee is located on the side of the septic tank at a distance of 20 cm from the lid;
  • A hole is made above the tee for ventilation;
  • On the other side there is an exit for the pipe, which is located 40 cm below the upper zone of the structure;

Important! All joints must be sealed!

  • The metal laths of the chambers are welded to each other;
  • We attach the mounted structure to the hinges of the lowest plate;
  • We fill the perimeter with sand and cement.

Advice! To avoid deformation when filling, it is necessary to fill the containers with water.

Making a septic tank from brick

In order to build a brick device, you don’t have to be a mason, because beauty isn’t what’s important here. And to save money, any old brick will do.

The process itself consists of the following actions:

  • In the pit that we dug, we begin to lay brick walls. It is very important in this process to provide holes for the pipes. The structure can be square or round.
  • One building must have a concrete floor, the second must be equipped with a drainage system;
  • And cover the structure with special slabs.

Stages of installing a homemade septic tank

The main stages of working with a homemade septic tank:

  • Selection of material for the mechanism;
  • Determining the right place;
  • Size calculations;
  • Excavation;
  • Installation of equipment (formwork, partitions and ceilings)

We already got acquainted with the first three stages earlier in the article, now we will learn about the processes of excavation and installation.

Excavation

The easiest way to carry out this work is to hire an earthmover, but if finances do not allow, then you can do it with the help of shovels.

It is important to remember the following requirements and rules for this work:

  • If the material of your septic tank is brick or concrete, then the hole is dug according to the calculated data, but if it is a different type, we add the distance for reserve;
  • The bottom must be leveled, otherwise the tightness will disappear;
  • It is necessary to make a cushion of sand - 30 cm, which will be located at the bottom of the pit.

Installation work (formwork, partitions and ceilings)

After completing the excavation work, we begin the construction of formwork. In this situation, you can use outdated boards, plywood and other available materials. Need to make holes to improve efficiency drainage system. They must be done at a distance of 20-30 cm. Thus, when you insert the pipes of the sewer system, you will improve the drainage significantly.

To finally strengthen our formwork structure, it is necessary to use beams that cling across to the made sheets. After we have strengthened the stability of the building, we need to start pouring concrete. A reliable solution has a proportional ratio of 1:2:2 (cement, sand, crushed stone).

You should also not forget about reinforcement - this is necessary for greater reliability and stability. For this process, any metal objects are suitable for us. When choosing from corners, rods and various channels, it is better to give preference to the mesh. In order not to waste and save money, you can take broken brick or stone. The last stage of reinforcement is securing all components between the formwork and the foundation pit.

The next stage in the installation of our septic tank will be the installation of partitions and ceilings. As soon as we have the walls that we brought together in the previous stage, we can begin building the partition. You can make it from unnecessary bricks.

After you have completed work with the partition, you need to install the ceiling. What it is? To begin with, it is necessary to say that this is the last action in our installation. Here you need to try hard to make it strong and reliable. After all, you always want to delay repairs as long as possible and save money. Therefore, we try to ensure that the septic tank can cope with the load that will appear before it.

So, the floor installation diagram:

  • We lay stiffeners on top of the device’s chambers. For these purposes, we can take any strong metal object.
  • If you want to have a hatch in your ceiling, then such ribs should be laid along its perimeter;
  • The next step is to make the flooring from wood boards or other suitable material;
  • Then we create reinforcing mesh and lay it down with either stone or brick fragments over the entire surface of the flooring;
  • The perimeter of the flooring is covered with formwork, then filled with concrete;

Attention! It is worth remembering that during pouring you must leave a hole for ventilation and for the sewer truck.

  • We maintain concrete at a thickness of 15 cm, no less.

So, with this we have completed the installation of formwork and ceilings. To make our structure look and feel better, it can be sprinkled with soil and planted around beautiful plants or flowers, since flora grows very well near the septic tank.

Creating a filter field

If we make a septic tank with our own hands, we will need to take care of the filtration fields, since post-treatment is very important. How does the system of these fields work? Purified septic tank water, seeping through the soil, is susceptible to the influence of microorganisms, where it ultimately comes out with 95% purification, and this is already process water, which is harmless to the environment.

What are filter fields? These are horizontal trenches that are filled with sand and gravel. Through pipes that are slightly inclined to allow gravity flow, water is discharged onto the field.

Important! The distance to the groundwater level must be at least 1 meter.

In order to make and install a septic tank yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with all sanitary and construction standards. And most importantly, do not forget about the filtration fields, which ensure the protection and safety of the environment.

Conclusion! Now you can make your own septic tank with your own hands in accordance with all generally accepted standards. Enjoy your construction work!

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Every owner of a private home is faced with the problem of arranging a sewer system. There is no escape from this. Still, I want to live with comfort and public amenities even outside the city. You can, of course, turn to specialized companies that will take on the task of constructing a sewer system. However, you will have to fork out for this. In addition, highly professional services certainly won’t come cheap.

However, you can find an option that does not require excessive spending. We are talking about constructing a sewer system on your own site yourself. What will it take? Perhaps only your diligence, strength and suitable building materials.

Septic tank is the best choice

Before starting construction, every owner of a country house will be puzzled by the question: “What type of sewer system is best to build?” Just some five to ten years ago, a common option was the most primitive cesspool. But these times are becoming a thing of the past. Now site owners are more demanding and picky. On the one hand, I want the sewer system to cope with the function of collecting and treating wastewater. On the other hand, you don’t want the sewer smell to be felt in the area, and maintaining the system wouldn’t be too difficult. Read also: "".
All these requirements are met by a septic tank. This is such an option sewer device, in which wastewater is collected in a tank, and if there are several chambers, it can be thoroughly cleaned. Cleaning in septic tanks usually follows the principle of aerobic processes. That is, wastewater becomes cleaner thanks to bacteria, which, in fact, “feed” on waste and organic compounds. What is important is that the water obtained as a result can be used, for example, for watering crops.

So, how to make a septic tank in a private house? This question, at first glance, seems difficult. But that's not true. The principle of building a septic tank is very simple. And you can choose one of the many models of its design: from inexpensive to more advanced. It all depends on your capabilities. So, for the construction of a septic tank, you can choose old tires, bricks, and concrete rings. Or you can make it monolithic concrete structure. Let's take a closer look - how to make a septic tank in a private house?

How to make a septic tank from tires

Answering the question of how to make a septic tank yourself using only tires, you first need to decide where to get these same tires. Obviously, you can visit a couple of auto repair shops. As a rule, old, used tires can be given away for little money, or even for free (read also: " ").

And now about the steps on how to make a septic tank yourself in a private house from tires:
  1. It is necessary to dig a well. Keep in mind that its diameter must be equal to the diameter of the tire plus 20 cm.
  2. The depth should not be less than one and a half meters. But we’ll talk about depth in more detail below. It is worth saying that digging a relatively narrow well is inconvenient (read also: ""). Take advantage necessary tools. Bayonet shovel will help loosen and dig the ground. But it’s better to lift sections of soil with a shovel. But at the same time, experts advise, for convenience, to bend it at an angle of 70-80 degrees relative to the handle. As a result, lifting the soil to the surface from the hole will be much more convenient and convenient. By the way, if you have tires large diameter, then you can do without such “tricks” with shovels. After all, then digging a hole will not be difficult.
  3. Next, you need to take a garden drill and drill a drainage channel in the center of the bottom of the resulting well. Through it, filtered wastewater will go into the ground. At what depth such a channel needs to be made depends on the properties of the soil in your area. If it is hard and clayey, then you need to dig a drainage channel deeper. If the soil is soft, then a small hole in the ground with a drill is sufficient.
  4. Now insert the pipe into the drainage channel. It's better to use plastic. After all, metal ones will quickly become unusable due to corrosion. The pipe should rise about a meter above the bottom of the well. Seal its upper hole with mesh. Otherwise, large particles will get inside the pipe, which means a blockage will quickly form. By the way, you need to make small holes along the length of the entire pipe for the passage of water. Thus, the drainage channel is ready!
  5. Fill the bottom of the well with crushed stone and gravel. And only then you need to start laying the tires. However, before doing this, be sure to cut off the rubber, protruding part of the rim of each tire so that the water drains and does not stagnate in these parts of the tires.
  6. Make a hole in the top tire for a sewer pipe through which wastewater will flow into the well.
  7. Having carefully laid the tires, be sure to make sure that the top one rises slightly above the surface of the ground.
  8. Fill the gap between the walls of the resulting well and the walls of the pit with simple crushed stone.
  9. There was still a line for the lid. It can be made from plastic. It will be more reliable and durable. Finally, fill the well with soil.
Now you know how to properly build a septic tank in a private home, having simple, used tires on hand. This is quite within the capabilities of a person ignorant of construction. The main thing is your desire!

Correct location of the septic tank in a private house

If you have definitely decided that you will install a septic tank on the site, start by familiarizing yourself with a document such as SNiP 2.04.03 - 85.

Here are the basic provisions that determine where the septic tank should be located on the site:
  1. The distance to the source of drinking water (well, borehole) must be at least 20 meters.
  2. The distance to a residential building is at least 3 meters.
  3. Also, you should not place the septic tank too close to the fence and property line. Retreat about three meters (more details: " ").
  4. If the pipeline from the house to the sewer tank is too long, then be sure to install inspection wells every 12-15 meters. In case of blockages, they will help to quickly identify the problem area and carry out necessary actions on cleaning.
  5. If your site is uneven and hilly, then in places where there is a difference in elevation you need to build a drop well, which will help dampen the speed of wastewater.
  6. Sewage pipe to the well should go downhill. Approximately 2cm for every meter of length.

Depth and volume of the septic tank

When deciding how to make a septic tank yourself, do not forget to correctly calculate its depth and volume. So, the depth should not be more than three meters if you expect that the well will be cleaned by a sewer truck. After all, her hose is designed only for such a depth. It is also important to know how deep the groundwater lies in the area.
If they are too close to the surface, then it is necessary to build a sealed septic tank. Another aspect is the depth of soil freezing. The depth of the well must be greater than this value.

Now, how to calculate the volume? Experts advise multiplying the number of people living in the house by 200 liters, this is a value that shows how much waste water flows per person per day. Keep in mind that the larger the volume of the septic tank, the less often it will have to be emptied. However, if you have a small family and little house, then a septic tank of huge volume will simply stand idle. This will have a bad effect on its condition and service life. Read also: "".

Purchased or homemade septic tank

Now you know what to make a septic tank from in a private house. And most importantly, they are familiar with the rules and regulations for its placement. But if you are not confident in your abilities and the skill of the builder, then you can turn to professionals for help. Today there are septic tanks of various types on sale, and numerous companies offer installation and installation services sewer systems. All this is good. After all, it’s not easy to build a complex and multi-chamber septic tank on your own site.

But only septic tanks with water overflow from chamber to chamber can demonstrate a high degree of wastewater treatment. Therefore, if you do not know how to properly make a septic tank with an overflow, use the purchase of a ready-made model. By the way, industrial septic tanks will last much longer than homemade ones. Their service and possible repairs quite affordable for any owner of a country house.

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