How to fill up the basement under the house. Water in the cellar of the garage: what to do? Drainage system creation

I looked in search engines about filling - and did not find a specific solution: a lot of conflicting ideas, and mainly aimed at saving the basement.

Some advise to fill it in layers - at the bottom of expanded clay, then sand, then earth, then crushed stone ... Others advise to cover everything with sand ... Still others advise to fill everything with clay ... Others advise to pour crushed stone with sand ... Fifths advise to fill in construction waste and then concreting on top ...

So what is the best way to fill up the basement? For example, if you do not bother with all these layers, pump out the water (although it will not work completely dry - 15 centimeters remains), and just fill 8 cubic meters of ordinary earth there?
I do not understand what is the fundamental difference if you add sand or clay? I need some kind of logical justification for this or that material, why exactly it should be used. And why does no one advise to pour ordinary earth?

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And you can see everyone

1. Open circuit

• Cold water supply;
• Hot water supply;
• Heating;
• Sewerage.

HVS

Image	Description
Cold water filling

Stopping the water meter

• Welding on or replacing a wedge;
• Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;

Leaks in the water meter

Cold water filling leak

Blockage or overgrowth of the riser

Booster pump leak

DHW

Low water temperature

High water temperature

Heating

• Clogged elevator nozzle;

• Repair shut-off valves;

Sewerage

Riser blockage

Clogged bedding

Discharge blockage to the well

Leaks

• Destruction of the bell;

Conclusion

And you can see everyone

1. Closed heating circuit does not provide for the withdrawal of water from the heating circuit. Water for the needs of hot water supply is heated in heat exchangers, where it is given energy by the heat carrier of the heating system;

1. Open circuit means that hot water is taken directly from the heating network through the hot water connections in the elevator units.

• Cold water supply;
• Hot water supply;
• Heating;
• Sewerage.

HVS

Image	Description
Water meter with bypass line	Water metering unit responsible for turning off cold water supply to the house and accounting for water consumption by all residents. The water meter includes a water meter, shut-off valves before and after the meter, a sump or filter in front of the meter and a pressure gauge or control valve for connecting it. In addition, a bypass line can be mounted in the water meter unit, which is used to supply water during the repair or calibration of the meter. If the house has several cold water inlets from different sources, the water meter is additionally equipped with a check valve.
Cold water filling	Filling. He distributes water through the water supply risers. Cold water filling is usually dead-end (water moves in it only when it is disassembled by consumers) and has a diameter of 25-100 mm, depending on the number of connected water points. The lower filling points are equipped with relief valves for complete drainage during repair work.
Water supply risers	Risers distribute water to apartments. The diameter of the cold water risers is 20-40 mm. At each outlet from the bottling to the riser, a tap or valve is installed to turn off the water supply and a plug or vent to drain the riser.
Booster pump for water supply	Swap ( pumping station water supply) raises the water pressure to the required one to ensure its supply to the upper floors. Pumping can work around the clock, or turn on (manually or by timer) during peak water withdrawal - in the morning and in the evening. A typical pumping device is an electric motor with centrifugal pump mounted on a monolithic foundation.

Stopping the water meter

Faults in the fittings of the water metering unit

• Wear of the wedge between the valve cheeks (the cheeks go down below the counter mirrors in the body);

• Overgrowth of cheeks or mirrors with lime deposits;
• Falling cheeks due to wedge or stem wear.

• Welding on or replacing a wedge;
• Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;

• In case of impossibility of repair - replacement of shut-off valves.

Nuance: if the valve after the water meter is faulty, for repair it is enough to close the inlet valve. To repair the fittings at the entrance to the building, or the bypass line, it is necessary to agree with the water supplier to disconnect the section of the main water supply.

Leaks in the water meter

• Control valve malfunction (wear or destruction of the gasket, destruction of the valve);
• Development of the stuffing box on the valves;

• Destruction of the gasket at the connection of the water meter to the nozzles of the water meter.

• Replacing the gasket on the control valve;

Useful: If a factory-made gasket is not available, the replacement is cut out of the rubber sheet or truck tube.

• Replacing the control valve or its head;
• Gland packing. To do this, it is enough to completely close the problem valve, unscrew a couple of nuts on the bolts or studs holding the gland and lift the gland;
• The gasket under the counter is changed to a similar one.

Cold water filling leak

Overgrowth of bottling deposits

Hint: measuring the water pressure at the peak of the drawdown will help to localize the problem. Measurements are taken in the water meter and on the water supply risers; in the latter case, the pressure gauge is screwed in instead of the plug (if necessary, through an adapter with a change in the thread diameter).

• Chemical flushing of the water supply system as a whole or filling cold water supply (with closed risers);

• Cleaning the filling with sewer wire through a window cut in the pipe;
• Replacement of the entire filling or its section.

Blockage or overgrowth of the riser

• Blockage of the riser with scale weld or by foreign objects (destroyed valve gasket, wooden chopik, etc.);

Hint: Blockages are most common in pipe bends and under the seat of the screw valve.

• Incorrect installation of the screw valve (water does not flow to the valve seat from below, but presses on the valve from above). Sooner or later, such an installation leads to the separation of the valve, after which it completely or partially blocks the water and can be removed only when the valve is opened;
• Overgrowth of the riser section with lime or rust. The lumen of the pipe narrows, first of all, at its bends.

• Clogs and deposits are cleaned with a plumbing cable through an open screw valve or after dismantling the valve and the squeegee installed after it;
• If there is a large amount of dense deposits, the pipeline section must be replaced;
• When the valve is torn off, the valve must be replaced (of course, already with its correct installation: the arrow on the body must be directed along the water flow).

Cork valve malfunctions

• On valves with stuffing box packing, stem leakage usually means a stuffing box is worn out. Sometimes the problem is solved by a tightened gland nut; much more often the gland has to be filled again. Since cork taps extremely rarely shut off water completely tightly, to fill the gland, you have to turn off the water throughout the house;
• At tension valves, the leak can be eliminated by tightening the shutter with a nut on the shank;

• Free-running stem cast iron crane means the destruction of the stem shank in the body. The problem is eliminated by replacing the tap.

Booster pump leak

DHW

• Tubes of hot water supply to the elevator unit. There can be two of them (with a dead-end hot water supply) or 4 (with circulating hot water supply);

Hint: buildings built after the mid-70s were and are equipped mainly with DHW circulation. Continuous circulation through looped risers and dispensers ensures instant delivery hot water to any point of its analysis and round-the-clock operation of heated towel rails.

• Filling (for a circulating system - two bottling) DHW;

• Risers. In the circulation system, they are connected by jumpers on the upper floor or in the attic in groups of 2 to 7 risers. Usually jumpers connect DHW risers separate apartment(in this case there are two of them - in the kitchen and in the bathroom) or the entire entrance.

Low water temperature

Reference: SP 30.13330.2012 limits the hot water temperature to a range of 60-75 ° С. At the same time, the temperature graph of the heating network of 150/70 ° C implies a return temperature of 40 degrees.

High water temperature

Lack of circulation in the DHW system

• When DHW is connected "from supply to supply" or "from return to return" - the absence of a retaining washer between the inserts or its erosion by the flow of water;

Note: The backing washer creates a pressure drop between the bores. The nominal diameter of the hole in it is 1 mm larger diameter elevator nozzles.

• When DHW is turned on "from supply to return" - there is no pressure difference between the heating mains. It is typical for the first days after the end of the heating season: the heat supplying organization forcibly turns off the heating, reducing its own costs for heating the water;
• Finally, the cause of the problem may be a malfunction of the shut-off valves on one of the tie-ins (for example, a fall of the valve cheeks).

• Installing or replacing the retaining washer. It should stand on the flange between the hot water inlets in one thread;
• In the event of a malfunction of the shut-off valves, its repair or replacement is required. The repair methods are described above, in the "Cold water supply" section;

• If there is no pressure difference between the supply and return pipes, the problem has no solution.

There is no circulation in the group of risers

1. Close one of the risers connected to each other in the basement;
2. Go up to any apartment on this riser;
3. Open the hot water tap on any mixer all the way. Air will escape through the faucet at the front of the water flow;
4. Run the riser back to normal mode.

Heating

Hint: the larger the volume of circulating water, the smaller the temperature difference between the beginning and the end of the heating circuit, the more evenly the batteries in the apartments are heated.

No circulation in the heating system

• Malfunction of shut-off valves in the elevator unit;
• Clogged elevator nozzle;
• Airing the top filling system;

Hint: at start-up, all the air from the previously vented circuit is displaced into the supply filler and the expansion tank installed at its highest point. If the supply filling is filled with air, circulation in the heating system is not possible.

• No pressure drop in the heating main.

• Repair of valves;
• Dismantling the elevator and cleaning the nozzle;
• Bleeding air through the vent on expansion tank pouring filing;
• In the latter case, the heat supplier is notified of the problem.

Nuance: at negative temperatures, stopping circulation for more than an hour leads to defrosting of the access heating.

No circulation in a riser or group of risers

• Airing the lintel between the risers in a house with a bottom filling;
• Ventilation of a part of the upper filling (thanks to the gasket with a slope, the filling of the supply is partially filled with air);
• Defective shut-off valves.

• In the lower filling risers connected in pairs, to restore circulation, it is necessary to bleed air through the Mayevsky tap on the upper floor. In the event that one of the connected risers is idle (circulation, without heating appliances), it can be passed through the vent installed instead of the plug;

• In a top-filling system, it is sufficient to bleed the air through the vent on the expansion tank;
• Methods for repairing valves and taps were described by us earlier.

Low heating return temperature

• Incompletely open shut-off valves (including the inlet valves of the elevator unit);
• Malfunction of the shut-off valves (in particular, the fall of the valve cheeks);
• Understated diameter of the elevator nozzle. In new buildings, it is selected based on calculations heating system, which often do not take into account secondary factors (replacement by residents of heating devices with more efficient ones, broken glazing in the entrances, etc.).

• The gate valves and taps in the elevator open completely;

• Defective fittings are repaired or replaced;
• The nozzle is reamed to the required diameter after agreement with the supplier thermal energy organization. If the diameter is chosen experimentally, it should be increased by 0.5 mm at a time. The control measurement of the return temperature is carried out one day after the installation of the nozzle, upon completion of the stabilization of the temperature regime.

High heating return temperature

Hint: for thermal workers, this means overconsumption of heat and extra costs at a constant profit.

1. Temporary start of the elevator unit without a nozzle and with a muffled steel plate with the elevator suction;

1. Reducing the pressure drop between supply and return by means of shut-off valves. The inlet or intermediate valve or valve on the return is covered with return pressure control and periodic temperature measurements. At a time, the difference should be reduced by no more than 0.5 kgf / cm2.

Sewerage

• Risers with revisions for cleaning;

• Lezhnevki - horizontal branches that collect the drains of several risers and transport them to the outlets to the wells. Straight sections of the bed are supplied with oblique tees or revisions every 12-15 meters;
• Outlets for wells with tees for cleaning.

Riser blockage

• Fatty deposits at the junction of the riser with the bed, or in the bed itself;
• Silting of the bed or the accumulation of sand in it, fillers for cat litter etc.;
• Ingress of foreign objects into the sewer system (rags thrown into the ventilation outlet on the roof of the bottles, large food waste, construction waste).

Clogged bedding

Discharge blockage to the well

1. At the moment of clearing the blockage, the drains will flow into the well with a pressure of several meters. It is very difficult to dodge the stinking jet in a confined space;
2. Methane often accumulates in the wells of the yard sewage system. It is not toxic by itself, but it displaces breathable air. Loss of consciousness due to oxygen deficiency at a well depth of 2 meters or more means certain death.

Leaks

• Embossing the bell of the cast-iron sewage system;

• Destruction of the bell;
• Destruction of a section of a riser or bedrock.

• The socket connection that does not have mechanical damage is sealed (stamped) with a cable or a graphite gland;
• The destroyed socket is cut out with a grinder and replaced by an assembly of a coupling and a compensating pipe;
• Any direct section of the sewage system is repaired in the same way.

Conclusion

Good day! Please tell me how to fill up the basement on your own. House 6 by 5, basement height about two meters, the house stands on strip foundation, in one brick, the basement is damp. If necessary, I will send a video of the basement. How much earth or clay do you need?

Alla, Moscow.

Hello Alla from Moscow!

In each case, the basement backfilling operation is suitable according to the characteristics of the soil and the basement itself.

There are basements, which are rooms completely with concrete sides(floor, walls and ceiling with a hatch hole), there are brick, there is no floor, just with solid earth on it. The water that enters the basement can also be different (ground water, rainwater, from a water conduit burst nearby, etc.).

In some cases, there is a need for a drainage device to drain water.

In practice, there was a case when the owner, for a number of reasons, did not fill up the basement, but made a depression at its bottom, where the incoming water and condensate from the surfaces of the basement were collected. A pump hose was lowered into the recess, which was automatically turned on when a certain water level was present.

Without inspecting your basement under the house, I would not give unambiguous recommendations.

However, if you list general principles operations on, then you most likely should proceed as follows.

Filling can be done with many materials, for example - ordinary soil, that is, earth, sand, crushed stone, sand and gravel mixture, clay, rubble, construction waste, etc.

The use of crushed limestone should be avoided as it attracts moisture. / Let me explain that crushed limestone looks like white or yellowish stones of various sizes. /

But in any case, later, over time, it is possible that the thickness of the backfilled (backfilled) material will subside. This I mean that in a couple of years you will have to add some more sagging imported material from above. Otherwise, there will be a hole in the backfill site.

Judging by your words, the basement is just damp, not an underground lake. Therefore, you can go for the simplest option.

First of all, if the basement floor is concrete screed, then it is necessary to break several holes in it in different places... In case of water leaving in case of its possible entry into the former basement.

Then fill the entire volume of the basement with the material that you can get and bring.

I don’t think you will be doing a concrete screed over the top of the backfill, it is very effective, but too expensive. Therefore, you can simply put a layer of roofing material on top of the backfill, this protects the subfloors of the house from moisture evaporation from the soil and condensation settling on its lower surfaces with all the negative in the form of wood decay.

And after a couple of years, check if there is water on the roofing material. If there is, then remove the roofing material, add soil to eliminate the pits from the subsidence of the filled materials and re-lay the roofing material.

Naturally - check the ventilation of the space under the floor through the vents.

By the number of necessary material see for yourself - a simple arithmetic calculation shows that the basement area is about 30 square meters and with a height of 2 meters, all this will be about 60 cubic meters of the required material. That is about 6 KAMAZ trucks of ten tonnes.

The material may be relatively cheap, but you will have to pay to bring it in. How much is difficult to say, how to negotiate with the drivers, but usually the ride starts from 2.5 thousand rubles and can reach 5 thousand or more.

It is most optimal when construction waste is removed from an object under construction in the vicinity and drivers will not need to drive a dump truck tens of kilometers to a landfill, but dump the contents of the body on your site. However, this no longer applies to the question you asked.

Yes, and throwing about 60 cubic meters is a cumbersome business, you will have to hire guest workers. Three or four Uzbeks or Tajiks can do this in two or three days, they are born diggers. Russians, Ukrainians and Bulbashs in at least a week, but they rarely undertake this.

So all this will result in a considerable pretty penny.

How else?

Anyway, good luck!

Other questions about basements and subfields.

To get rid of dampness, you need to draw a row preparatory activities... To understand why it appeared, where the moisture is oozing from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon that can destroy the stored crops. If moisture "settles" in the room, this can lead to the destruction of the structure and deterioration of the health of everyone who regularly descends into the cellar or basement. Read about why dampness "comes to visit" and how to get rid of it as soon as possible - read our material.

Dampness in the house - the reasons for the appearance

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a variety of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

ventilation problems... Errors at the design or construction stage lead to the fact that ventilation in the room is disturbed. The most common mistake is that poorly laid floor slabs and debris are blocking the ventilation ducts;

When the temperature difference between inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will appear soon.

level up groundwater ... In spring and autumn, when the flooding of basements and cellars begins due to heavy rains, dampness also intensifies. Poor drainage leads to the accumulation of water in underground storage facilities, the level of humidity rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;

capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks... If the foundation was erected in violation of the technology, then after some time, due to temperature changes, droplets of moisture will appear on its inner walls. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Mold spores can trigger many dangerous diseases, including cancers.

Why dampness is dangerous

Condensation and characteristic bad smell- these are just the first signs of impending disaster. Condensation has the following consequences:

mold and mildew appear; temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room; microorganisms harmful to humans multiply; walls, ceiling and ceilings are constantly waterlogged.

Because of what the finish suffers; the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

Concrete surfaces and tiles are most often attacked by mold.

How to get rid of dampness

First of all, all summer residents are concerned about the question of how to remove dampness. There are several known reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the appearance excess moisture... To do this, carefully examine the room:

• if water droplets appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is in violation of ventilation;
• puddles on the floor indicate an increase in the level of groundwater;
• droplets only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's take a closer look at ways to eliminate each of the causes.

How to improve ventilation

If air exchange is disturbed in the room, the easiest way to improve it is by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation is of two types:

natural - involves the use of the so-called. "air" - holes around the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 total area buildings; forced - implies the use of special equipment that forcibly pumps Fresh air... Usually used in large rooms.

Installation forced ventilation- expensive pleasure

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

Thermal insulation of engineering networks... If you have communications in your basement - water supply and sewer pipes- then the temperature of the water in them is always higher than the temperature in the room. As a result, condensation forms on them. To get rid of heat loss, you need to use a protective shell made of mineral wool, foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Extraction organization... For additional ventilation of the room, install ventilation ducts or pipes. Usually they are attached to vertical load-bearing elements either attached to existing structures. Two pipes are installed in the room - an exhaust and a supply, placing them on different heights from the floor in opposite corners of the room. This is necessary so that traction appears and the room is blown out.

Lowering the water table

If groundwater seeps into the room, this is a serious problem that, over time, can lead to the partial collapse of the building. In this case, it is necessary to carry out a number of additional measures aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater.

In particular, you will need to do the following:

• dig up the foundation;
• organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
• strengthen the foundation; arrange external and internal waterproofing;
• make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
• dry the room.

Only qualified specialists can carry out the whole range of work on groundwater disposal

How to get rid of capillary moisture

If moisture forms on the walls of the building, it means that it is penetrating from external environment, namely - from the soil. Some of the most popular measures can be used to prevent it from entering a building:

usage waterproofing materials - first of all roofing material, linokrom and hydroisol. All of them are made from pieces of dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is pasted over as with outside and from the inside;

protective compounds which clog the pores in concrete are also considered an excellent "cure" for capillary moisture;

Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a point effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas.

bituminous mastic and polymer resins used for additional protection of walls and floors from condensation. These formulations can be applied independently, but they do not always provide required level protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;

shielding it is used in especially difficult cases, when groundwater appears in the room simultaneously with the capillary action. Protective shields are made from geotextiles, bentonite or clay.

With capillary penetration, moisture from the floor evaporates and settles on the walls

External waterproofing basement or cellar

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, drainpipes, drainage system and blind areas. If you, in principle, do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing drainpipes and slopes. Next, move on to protecting the outer walls:

• remove the old blind area;
• dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
• dry the outer wall;
• apply an antifungal compound to it;
• paint the wall bituminous mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
• make a blind area from a sheet of roofing material - fix it 0.5 m above the ground level and bring it over the edges outer wall basement;
• fill the hole.

External insulation can be supplemented with a drainage system

Internal waterproofing basement

After completing outdoor work, you can also insulate the basement or cellar with inside... This is done like this:

• dry the room;
• remove all loose coatings and whitewash;
• find and clear all the cracks;
• saturate the walls with an antifungal drug;
• apply a waterproofing compound;
• if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

Instead of applying plaster, you can treat the walls with a waterproofing compound

Floor work to eliminate moisture

If moisture penetrates the walls, hits the floor and evaporates, you should also do floor covering... The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and roofing.

You can also follow a simple algorithm (if you have a clay floor):

• remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
• level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
• sprinkle it on top with clay or pour concrete and level the surface.

Use only cement-based putties, as their gypsum counterparts actively absorb moisture

When seasonal flooding of the site use a different method:

• Spread a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to prevent flooding by groundwater. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
• apply a special waterproofing plaster on the walls;
• place glass jars with calcium chloride in the corners of the cellar (it will absorb excess moisture). For one cellar, no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder is required;
• sprinkle the floor quicklime a layer of 1 cm - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat mold and mildew, you can slake lime right in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The vapors released will kill germs and mold.

It is better to leave the room during the release of lime vapors. Return there in an hour and immediately arrange ventilation for a few hours.

Folk methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the humidity level in the cellar using folk remedies:

dry the walls of the cellar with clay bricks. Place 2-3 heated bricks in different corners of the basement. When they cool down, they will begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be reused; to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with vinegar or boric acid(dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), you can use citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water); take out all the products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

Removing dampness and mold is a rather laborious process. Therefore, you need to take care of the organization of drainage and waterproofing in advance, then you need to deal with high humidity don't have to. What methods of dealing with dampness do you know?

It may seem to many that a house with a basement is an excellent solution to many problems related to finding a place to store things. However, not all owners of houses with a basement are happy to have it, because you constantly have to think about before it starts to bloom and an unpleasant smell appears. The thing is that basements are often flooded with water during the period of active snow melting and prolonged rains.

Increased humidity in the basement creates optimal conditions for the development of fungi and mold, quickly colonizing all the walls and ceiling of the room. Over time, the water begins to stagnate, a pungent smell appears, which can make living in the house impossible. A large number of mold and mildew combined with musty smell pose a serious threat to the lives of people living in the house. These are not all the troubles that are hidden in the flooding of the premises, because often the property left in the basement for storage is also damaged.

All the problems associated with stem from their improper arrangement, since in some areas where groundwater is close to the surface, it is strongly discouraged to build houses with basements. Many owners of private houses deliberately do not pay attention to the recommendations of professionals, and after a long struggle with groundwater, they still decide to fill the cellar, which is causing so much trouble.

It is as difficult to fill up the cellar in the house correctly as it is to dig it out correctly, it is especially difficult to bury the cellar located under the house, since in this case it is necessary to make drainage, select a soil composition, which will subsequently pass water through itself so that moisture does not accumulate in the basement, and went back into the soil.

In addition, the soil composition must be laid correctly so that it does not sag in the future and does not push water to the surface.

To backfill the basement, you can use:

• non-porous soils;
• river sand;
• construction scrap;
• clay;
• expanded clay;
• crushed stone.

If the water is in the basement throughout the year, it is better to fill the cellar with layers of bulk materials, having previously made drainage. Also, in some cases the best option the basement will be filled with concrete. In this case, you can get reliable protection from flooding the house, but this method is not only the highest-quality solution to the problem, but also the most expensive, since usually the cellars located under the house have a fairly large volume, which means that a lot of mixture will be needed. Drainage is not necessary when using concrete.

Back to the table of contents

Correct selection of material for backfilling the basement

So, first you need to decide how to fill the cellar in a particular case. If it is not filled with water in the spring, and its filling is required due to the danger of its collapse, you can fill its lower part with any soil, and the upper one with rubble. Such cases are rare, so this option is not suitable for all owners of houses with a basement.

If every spring there is a slight flooding of the basement, that is, water fills about 20-30 cm, it is best to use fine river sand. In this case, the process of filling the basement with material can last 2-3 years, since it will not work to tamp the sand properly without disassembling the floors, which means that when flooding this material will sag, so you will have to add it for several seasons. Sand is a great option when there is no concrete stitch on the floor in the basement, but just a wooden floor. With proper backfilling, the sand will only get wet up to the middle of the basement, and the ceiling of the backfilled room will always remain dry.

If every spring the cellar is flooded to the very ceiling, it will not work to fill the basement with sand, since the sand will get wet completely, which will eventually lead to the destruction of the floor and subfloor on the first floor of the house. In addition, the chances are good that the basement will not dry out throughout the year. In this case, it is necessary to use a mixture of broken construction waste, that is, broken bricks, gravel, and sand. These materials must be stacked in layers. The first layer is made of construction waste, sand is poured over it. It is very important that at the surface, that is, at the very, there was again a layer of broken construction debris.

If the basement is filled up in an area where groundwater is constantly present, it is best to cover it with layers of clay and sand. The first layer is covered with clay, and the last layer should be made of sand. An interlayer of river sand and expanded clay, but this method of disposal of the cellar is quite expensive. When used, a base is formed under the house that does not allow moisture to pass through.

If you wish, you can also fill up the basement, in which water accumulates every spring, sandy soil removed during the construction of the foundation at another construction site. In this case, it is important that the soil is not porous. In addition, when filling it, it is imperative to form a drainage system so that water is removed from the basement. If you do not want to touch the basement in the future and constantly pour in the settling bulk material, you must first fill and tamp a layer of sand, on top of it a layer of gravel, and so that it is as close as possible to the surface of the basement. With the help of a vibrating plate, it is necessary to compact the layers if possible. The last layer concrete is poured through the pipe. For this method of recycling the basement, it will be necessary to make several passes in order to fill in the maximum amount of concrete. After the concrete hardens, you can forget about the problem of backfilling the basement forever.