Wooden frame for drywall: preparation and installation. Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame

Drywall is one of the most popular building materials. It is used for leveling surfaces, building partitions during redevelopment, installation of various structures. It is not difficult to work with the material, even a novice home master can do it. Installation must begin with the construction of a wooden or metal frame. Although metal base more durable and easier to install, many prefer wooden frame for drywall.

Frame materials

The use of a frame makes it possible to hide the flaws of any surfaces without compromising the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe room. Its construction must be taken seriously. The success of further work depends on how accurately it will be calculated and designed.

For the construction of the frame, you need to prepare wooden bars. It should be coniferous wood, the best option is pine.

The material must be flawless and well dried so that during operation it does not deform and withstand heavy loads.

Before starting to work with the material, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition. The antiseptic should not be toxic, since the work will be carried out indoors. It should easily penetrate into the wood, not decompose, not wash out and not have a smell. Do not use oily antiseptics. This can adversely affect the health of the residents of the house.

The thickness of the bars must be at least 40 mm. Permissible humidity - no more than 15-18%. However, the thickness directly depends on the dimensions of the future GKL structure. For example, when constructing a partition, attention should be paid to its width and height. The larger these values, the larger the cross section of the bar should be. For wall or ceiling cladding, the width of the material is selected based on how much usable area I would like to save. If the surfaces are very uneven, you should use bars of different sections.

Base for drywall

Figure 1. Rigid fastening of a wooden frame to the wall.

To fix a wooden frame to walls or ceilings, there are two ways. One of the most reliable is considered to be a rigid mount directly to the wall (Fig. 1). The binding is done first. If the frame is built on the ceiling, then the bars are attached to the walls. If a wooden frame is made for a wall, then the fastening of the bars is carried out to the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly.

The plasterboard frame can be attached to ceilings or walls in another way: using metal brackets. The advantage of this method will be quick installation, and the disadvantage is the low rigidity of the structure.

Before making a wooden frame, for example, on a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to mark up (Fig. 2). For this, the lowest point of the ceiling is determined. From it you need to retreat 50 mm and draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. A strapping rail will be fixed along this contour. To draw an accurate horizontal line at the corners of the room, marks are made at the required level. A cord is pulled between them and a straight line is beaten off. In the rail, you need to drill holes for fasteners with a diameter slightly larger than that of a self-tapping screw or screw.

Figure 2. Marking the frame: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level, 2 - using a level and a pencil, you should make an even marking for fastening the profiles, 3 - the profile is applied to the marking and screwed to the floor and wall, 4 - marking the attachment point with using a plumb line, 5 - assembling the frame and checking the evenness with a level.

The rail is applied to the line on the wall and the marks of future fasteners are transferred to the surface with a pencil. Then holes are drilled into which dowels or wooden plugs for self-tapping screws will be hammered. Reiki are fixed around the perimeter.

The next step is to install the base of the bars on the surface of the ceiling. The fastening step of the parallel bars should not exceed 800 mm. This will ensure the reliability of the future design. Supporting bars are attached perpendicularly, on which drywall will subsequently be mounted.

The frame for the wall can be assembled on the floor and only then fixed to the wall. The size of the wall on which the drywall will be attached is measured. From the result, subtract 5 mm on each side and cut out the bars of the appropriate size. Assemble the frame from 2 horizontal and 2 vertical bars. Additional rails are fastened with a step of 600 mm, crossbars are fixed perpendicular to them. The frame is fixed with dowels, screws or dowel-nails around the entire perimeter of the wall. With this manufacturing method, the heat-insulating layer is attached directly to the wall, and the frame closes it.

In the manufacture of the frame, you can do without transverse bars if its length does not exceed the length of the plasterboard and there are no door or window openings on the wall.

Making a frame for a partition

Before building a frame for drywall, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the future partition, on which to indicate the location of the doorway. When calculating the rigidity of the structure, the number of horizontal parts should be taken into account.

To complete the work you will need:

Level.
Pencil.
Perforator or drill.
Saw.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws or screws, mounting dowels.
Metal corners.
Screwdriver.
Bars: for vertical racks, the section is at least 40x70 mm, for horizontal - 30x50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the floor, walls and ceiling (Fig. 3). For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used, if the floors are concrete, and nails, if the floors are wooden. Anchors will be needed for ceiling mounting.

First, the fastening takes place on the ceiling. The boundaries of the future partition are marked, only after that the bars are mounted. With the help of a plumb line, a line is marked on the floor. For more accurate marking on the walls, you need to make several marks. After marking is completed, the beam is fixed on the floor.

Figure 3. Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the walls, floor and ceiling.

The next step is to attach the vertical strapping that will connect the ceiling and floor bars. Vertical racks will carry the main load in the structure, so the fastening should be as strong as possible with a fastening pitch of no more than 400 mm. If the main walls in the room are not made of durable materials, then dowel-nails are used for fastening. You can drill holes in the wall in which to place plugs from wooden pegs and screw in screws or hammer in nails.

If the main walls are strong and smooth, then the strapping can be fixed on straight hangers, which are used for a metal frame.

When the strapping is ready, racks are installed with a pitch of 600 mm. It is this step that will strengthen each standard sheet GKL on two racks. Racks can be fixed with metal corners.

For horizontal lintels, a beam with the same cross section is used as for the entire structure. They are fastened with screws. For greater reliability, metal corners can be used.

The opening for the door in the new partition needs reinforcement. For this, additional racks and horizontal jumpers are used. The threshold will be the lower part of the frame.

Laying communications in such a partition is not recommended. However, if necessary, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the racks. Electrical cable laid in special protective corrugated pipes or tin boxes.

Despite the fact that such a building material as drywall began to be used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. Its first sheets were most similar to the Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.

Such "paper" has gained wide popularity in the present day.

A little about drywall

Modern drywall - complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:

Increased sound insulation.
Fire safety.

Drywall was once called "dry plaster", but the name did not stick.

It is used for "dry" finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than with traditional repair work.

Drywall is available in 3 versions:

Standard, made without additional additives.

Note!
Panels standard drywall, depending on the thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.

moisture resistant;
Fire resistant.

IN last years Knauf, one of the main manufacturers of drywall, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed to level floor coverings. They have increased strength.

Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to the acidity of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.

Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to drywall that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.

How to install drywall

Drywall installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods.

frameless- sheets of drywall using special glue are attached directly to the walls.

frame- a frame for drywall is mounted from galvanized metal profiles of a certain shape or wooden slats, and sheets are already fixed on it with self-tapping screws.

Each method of fixing drywall has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires even wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
Frame fastening makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is concealed, albeit slightly.

Important!
At wireframe method installation of wall scraping for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.

Drywall not only level the walls. When redevelopment of the premises, partitions from GKL are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be lined with anything.

Wooden base of plasterboard partitions

Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a frame for drywall from wood.

In order to extend the life of the structure, the choice of wooden frame parts should be approached with all seriousness.

The cross-sectional dimensions of the cut of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be less than 40x70 mm in cross section, and 30x50 mm for horizontal ones.
All wooden slats without fail impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.

Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.

The frame is made from trees. conifers. Humidity wooden parts should not exceed 15%.

For your information!
Design requirements - the first group of fire resistance.

Tools for the job

In order to carry out the work on the manufacture of the frame, you must have the following tools at hand:

Drill.
Saw or hacksaw.

Screwdriver.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Mounting dowels.
Wood screws.
Metal corners.

Making a partition in an apartment

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you must first prepare an accurate drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.

When calculating the rigidity of the structure, it is required to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
The required number of drywall sheets is calculated.
The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the strapping support bars. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is carried out with self-tapping screws and dowels.

Vertical struts are installed.
Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.

The cross section of the beam of these rails is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but, nevertheless, not less than 30x50 mm.

Important!
Sheets of drywall during sewing must be shifted relative to each other on its opposite walls.

A heater is installed on the partition mounted on one side, and possibly insulated electrical wiring.
Sheathing begins on the side from which the insulation is fixed.

Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.

As a heater, mineral fiber mats, polystyrene foam of various densities or polystyrene foam are used. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.

Note!
Mineral wool insulation materials, such as basalt or dolomite fiber, provide additional moisture protection to the structure and reduce the fire hazard of the room.

The length of metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is fixed, should be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.

Wooden frame for wall cladding

It is advisable to install drywall on a wooden frame when cladding walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.

The wall is marked under the frame.
Dangerous places with weak plaster and irregularities are identified.
The crate is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.

Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with an indent of 10 mm from the edge of the crate. The step between them is taken 600 mm.
After the verticality of the structure is checked by a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
Structural alignment on uneven floor under the horizontal beam is carried out by lining chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.

Adviсe:

In order not to make cuts in drywall, when making a crate near door or window openings, the vertical slats are shifted.

During subsequent sheeting of joints above window or doorways should not be.

Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even in the absence of a partner. Even easier, if the floors are even, the process of such installation is not difficult.

Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are built to redevelop an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: GKL are quite light, the construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

As a material for the manufacture of a wooden frame for a structure drywall construction pine trees are often used. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?

The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the strapping. The bars are fastened in the following order: ceiling-half-wall. If indoors wooden floors, then fasten the bars easily with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then it will be a little more difficult to fix. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.

Fastening is recommended to start from the ceiling, having previously marked the place of the future partition. Once the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can mark the floor and continue mounting. It is important to make the markup correctly, you can use a level or a laser level.

When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After the floor beam is fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you are convinced of the accuracy of the fasteners, you can proceed to fastening the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling with the floor vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is on the vertical racks that the main load will fall, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you begin to strengthen the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.

If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials ( cellular concrete, drywall and so on), you need the dowels of the big size. It is allowed to use both dowel nails and special dowels. The following mounting option is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which screws can later be screwed or nails hammered.

Another way to attach the strapping: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and fasten the bars with them. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.

Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to the installation of racks. Usually the distance between the racks is 60 cm, it is very convenient - subsequently GKL standard width(120 cm) can be mounted on 2 posts, making it easy to install drywall.

Installation of racks is carried out using wooden bars, screwed to the rack and strapping with screws. You can mount racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use a tin box.

Partition wall insulation: the nuances

Sometimes you can’t do without additional insulation in a building, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulating materials is carried out when plasterboard sheathing is made on one side of the wooden frame. Optimal material insulation is considered to be mineral wool and foam materials.

Insulation is quite easy to perform, since the dimensions of the distance between the racks and materials are the same. It remains only to lay the material and fix it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be carried out on the inside of an already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.

Often, in the process of facing the second side with plates, a problem arises on the racks in the form of cracks. This is due to the large number of screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the plates on the walls are made from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd on the right).

It is important to remember that a small gap of 1-2 cm must be left between the ceiling and the top of the drywall. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed with a simple plinth.

Extended baffle

There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double wooden frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition are that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. A wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the sheathing is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install a battery, then it should not be installed in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the ventilation holes, then they need to be closed with plastic bars. It must be remembered that if you install a battery, then it is impossible to insulate the partition with foam rubber or foam. Mineral wool will perfectly cope with the task. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.

Mounting on an uneven wall

Not always the room can differ in perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. It’s worth starting with identifying irregularities: the beam is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the markings for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack bar must be pressed against the wall vertically and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to evenly place the support beam, because it will be further attached to it vertical bars. To align the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.

You can do the installation of drywall with your own hands, having an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Everything you need to do before the process necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on the entire set of material and tools that you need. For example:

screwdriver;
roulette;
pencil;
hacksaw;
metal scissors;
drill;
level.

But the most basic, perhaps, moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.

There are several ways to create indoor areas flat walls and ceilings. With one of them, drywall is attached to a wooden frame. It is made from pine or spruce bars, the cross section of which must correspond to future loads. To create a partition with a height of 2.5 - 4.0 meters, a beam of 50 × 60 or 50 × 70 mm is suitable.

Bars for a frame for drywall are made from spruce or pine trees and are carefully dried and processed.

Requirements for lumber used to create the crate

The beam must be carefully checked. It may be faint yellow or light brown in color without black or blue spots. Each part must have the correct geometric dimensions without chips, large cracks and deviations in straightness.

During construction and finishing works It is recommended to use wood with a moisture content of about 15%. It is impossible to check this on your own, therefore, when selecting the material, you just need to make sure by touching your hand that it is not wet. Before installation, it is advisable to hold the bars in the room where they will be installed for several days.

To protect against biological decay, mold, wood bug and rodents, wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. You can use ready-made mixtures for internal works or independently prepare a 4% solution of sodium fluoride by stirring it in hot water. The antiseptic is applied to the bars with a brush in several passes and the material is allowed to dry well.

Tools and materials for mounting a wooden frame

A master who begins to mount a wooden frame for drywall should have at hand:

hacksaw;
screwdriver;
drill;
hammer;
building level or plumb;
coated thread;
roulette;
pencil;
self-tapping screws;
dowels, anchors, brackets or anchor plates;
steel corners or mounting plates.

In the process of creating a partition, in addition to the bars, you will need plasterboard sheets, mineral wool, a primer, putty and finishing materials.

Marking

Before you start making a wooden frame for drywall, you need to determine the plane in which it will be installed and mark the lines of its intersection with the floor, ceiling and walls. At the same time, you need to remember about the thickness of the GKL and take it into account when marking.

The starting point is chosen at the junction line of the ceiling with one of the walls. Having attached a plumb line to it, they find a mark corresponding to it near the floor. Both points are connected by a vertical line. Drywall sheets are manufactured with sufficient precision to be used to determine right angle. To do this, we apply the GKL at an angle to the mark on the floor with the narrow side close to the wall. Continuing the perpendicular to the opposite wall, we find the next mark. With the help of a plumb line or level, we rise to the ceiling. We connect all four points with straight lines using a coated thread or a pencil with a ruler.

Installation of a wooden frame

The basis of the wooden frame is made up of bars located along its perimeter. They are attached in accordance with the applied markup. The manufacture of the frame begins with a support beam, which is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws, dowels or anchors, depending on the base material. If there is a doorway in the partition, two beams are taken, diverging from the passage to the walls.

When installing the frame, it must be taken into account that the drywall sheets are fixed so that the joints of the two sheets are in the middle on the bar.

In the same way, the bars are fixed to the ceiling and walls. Then vertical racks are installed in the central part of the frame. Start with the bars framing the doorway. The distance between them should be 3 - 5 cm more than the outer size door frame.

Racks are installed strictly vertically with their ends close to the horizontal support and ceiling bars of the frame. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws using steel corners or mounting plates intended for assembling rafters. They are designed for heavy loads, so they will ensure communication reliability. At the height of the door frame plus 2 cm, the racks are connected with a horizontal jumper.

Between the opening and the walls evenly with a step of 40 - 60 cm put the required number of racks. For large partitions, it will have to be covered with several sheets of plasterboard. Drywall is fixed on wooden slats so that the junction of two sheets falls exactly on the central axis of the bar. Therefore, the installation of racks is carried out taking into account future cutting and installation of plasterboards.

For the same reason, if the ceiling height is greater than the length of the drywall sheet, horizontal bars are fixed at the junction of the first and second rows.

Sheathing the frame with plasterboard sheets and finishing work

Installation of GKL on a wooden frame starts from the bottom corner of the partition or from the doorway. To do this, use wood screws 35 mm. They are installed in increments of up to 250 mm, retreating from the edges by 10 - 15 mm. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the sheet material, which is important for quality finishes walls.

If necessary, cutting drywall is cut with a construction knife, followed by a break at the place of the cut. The sheets are joined together with factory edges to each other, and the cut edges turn to the walls and ceiling.

After installing the GKL on one side of the partition, its inner space for noise insulation, it is filled with briquettes of mineral wool, polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Electrical and information cables are laid, protected from damage by corrugated tubes. Then sheathed back side walls.

After sheathing the frame with drywall, it must be primed, and then the joints and caps of the self-tapping screws should be well puttied.

The drywall sheets installed in place are treated with a primer. After it dries, all joints and caps of self-tapping screws are covered with a double layer of putty so that an absolutely flat surface is obtained. After two days, it is primed again and wallpaper, ceramic tiles or any other type of fine finish is applied.

Plasterboarding uneven walls and ceilings

If the dimensions of the room allow part of the space to be occupied by drywall, you can quickly and accurately close uneven walls and ceilings with it. For this, a wooden frame is also made, which is attached to building structures.

When sheathing the wall, repeat all the operations described for mounting the jumper, placing the frame close to it. To do this, it is allowed to take bars and slats of a smaller section, since they can additionally be attached with brackets or anchor plates to the wall to be closed.

Some masters assemble the frame on a flat floor, and only then put it in the right place and fix it. All cavities between the bars are filled with heat-insulating materials. Install drywall on the rails, trying to prevent the presence of joints above the door and window openings, since there will be no support vertical racks.

When installing the GKL on the ceiling, the frame bars are attached to the walls strictly horizontally and at the same level. After that, an internal crate is made with fixing it to the extreme bars and to the ceiling slabs. Ceiling drywall has a slightly smaller thickness and weight, which makes it easier to install.

Plasterboard lining

Wall cladding with drywall is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A common method is when sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden slats or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: is it possible to attach drywall directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Alignment of walls with drywall without a frame is performed on practically flat ground different types. The photo below shows a room with plasterboard walls and ceilings.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is best option at flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. The frameless method of wall cladding is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm. When they are larger, a crate is often installed.

Drywall is fixed on uneven planes using beacons. Thanks to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately on the level. Without beacons, you can mount it, having a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using the building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow you to mount it on different types surfaces. It is possible to fasten sheets:

to a brick wall;
on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
on wooden surfaces.

Installation of plasterboard on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Finishing walls with drywall without a frame and a profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the crate;
money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to involve a specialist);
the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
the terms of facing works are reduced, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
it is required that the wall surface be protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, pollutants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of finishing the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to pre-create the crate.

Preparatory activities

Before attaching to the wall given material without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different installation methods is presented in the table below.

Some of the tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing GKL. Gypsum glue

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you can not do without a ladder, or other device for working at height.

Installation of drywall on walls without a frame requires compliance with a number of conditions:

the temperature during work should exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at its lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
it is necessary that the walls in the repaired room be dry;
in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie in the room for 3 days;
the base for the installation of drywall must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how well the preparation was carried out. Thanks to the fact that everything necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, there will be no need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is a prerequisite during the finishing.

Methods for fixing GKL without installing a frame

In practice, several methods are used on how to level walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. Using the frameless method allows you to sheathe the walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets on their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without mounting the crate. However, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach sheets:

self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of mounting foam

The photo above shows the application of mounting foam to the sheet, in order to then fix it on the wall.

The general scheme of work for any installation method:

prepare the base;
fix drywall;
close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued lining can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further puttied, and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined both by personal preferences, and evenness and the material from which the partitions are built. Yes, drywall concrete wall(smooth) glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixing method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material for this: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following steps:

existing protrusions are removed: wooden partitions are leveled by hewing them with an ax or a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) with a puncher with an inserted chisel;
fix plasterboard sheets in increments of 25-35 cm, using a checkerboard pattern of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fixing drywall with self-tapping screws

After tightening with a screwdriver, the head of the self-tapping screw should be slightly “drowned” in the facing.

The photo below shows the process of fixing on wooden ceiling drywall piece.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of the hardware at the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the structure being created will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw self-tapping screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the walls are leveled with drywall without a profile, using driven dowels for installation. Their length with non-plastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm is used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

using a puncher or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
insert the plastic part;
clog or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the hat;
thus, they sheathe the entire room, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The substrate for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped fastening for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In places of depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not concave.

When all the sheets are attached, then proceed to sealing the seams. With even base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Gluing technology

To level the walls with drywall for glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, mounting foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Home-made solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the installed material differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

the working area is cleaned of old finishes (paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
close up cracks;
apply two layers of primer;
dowels are hammered in the corners (self-tapping screws are screwed in);
using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin ropes) between them;
in a selected square lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, surface irregularities are considered;
if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, a substrate is prepared from fragments from the material being installed (a sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
make markings for fixed drywall sheets on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the plasterboard and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. open areas(output of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

stretch the thread horizontally in increments of 50 cm;
under them (also after half a meter) glue beacons are applied;
control the thread level;
allow the beacons to dry before attaching the drywall to the unframed walls.

In the role of beacons, you can also use strips of gypsum board with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically every 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as stops for leaning plasterboards.

Options for leveling the base by gluing GKL

The figure below shows the options for aligning walls of various curvature with plasterboard when it is mounted on glue.

waiting for the primer to dry completely;
apply a fragmentary adhesive mass (2 cm higher than the gap between the back side of the GCR and the base surface) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
knock it out with a rubber mallet so that it leans against the beacons.

Installation of GKL on adhesive compositions It is considered a more complex and painstaking way, compared with fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use deep penetration primers with antiseptic properties for surface treatment before gluing.

Application mounting adhesive for fixing drywall is shown in the video below.

Installation using mounting foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money on work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to frame option. Sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, work on your own is easier and faster (especially on level ground) than using a crate.

Drywall - probably the most popular sheet finishing material for residential premises. Traditionally, it is mounted on a crate or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about what it looks like attaching drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant drywall on a wall without a crate.

Why drywall

pros

Why exactly GKL is used for leveling and rough wall finishing?

Here are the arguments in his favor:

Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet measuring 2500x1200 mm has an area of 3 square meters. The sheet area of 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of GKL.

Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even when closed windows. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of building envelopes must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Humidification will contribute to a drop in thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and ceilings.

Dependence of the state of enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the layers of the wall, thermal insulation and finishing.

The price of a GKL sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean rates, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture resistant drywall with an area of 3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, unlike its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
The GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering on any wallpaper paste. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum board;
From a related material - a gypsum fiber sheet, gypsum board compares favorably in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided that the broken area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: GKL is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with puttying.

Minuses

Does the GKL have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about?

I would politically correct call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

All materials based on gypsum are not friendly with water. Yes, GKLV ( moisture resistant drywall) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, however, direct contact with water is also contraindicated for him;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using fine finish rooms impervious to water materials. In my bathroom, the plasterboard walls and ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with water splashes and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaners.

The wall above the tiled apron and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

GKL has a very limited strength. Accidentally hitting a drywall wall while carrying furniture, it can be broken through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made in two layers; however, mounting to a wall without a profile implies mounting the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
On drywall partition or a main wall after leveling the GKL, it is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material clearly loses in comparison with the main wall in terms of ease of installation of hanging furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Mounting without profile

What is beneficial

Why do I need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

Reducing installation costs. The average consumption of Perlfix gypsum adhesive, which (running a little ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of 30 kg bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Gypsum glue Perlfix. Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

I will clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase markedly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, to mount the same sheet on a crate from a ceiling profile, you need:

Lathing for drywall made of galvanized profile.

At the most humane prices I found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

In addition, fixing drywall to the wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take up with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4+4+5+5=18 meters; the total area of the gap between the wall and drywall is 18 m x 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the GKL directly on the walls, the cost of the usable area will be limited only by the size of the irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

How to find out if the plasterboard can be mounted directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvilinearity, blockage or differences in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the crate. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the cost of funds and room space will be comparable or change in favor of mounting on the crate.

The long rule and the level will help to assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

On which walls can drywall be mounted without crates?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

On the main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
On wooden partitions (frame and plank, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinkas - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

How to install drywall on a wooden partition in stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fixed with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I did not even knock down the plaster; because of its thickness, I had to use self-tapping screws 70 mm long for fastening.

What screws to use?

Black phosphated. On wood or plasterboard - it doesn't matter: they differ only in the thread pitch. Self-tapping screws for GVL and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and GVL, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

How to screw screws?

Only with a screwdriver - cordless or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method??

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry wooden partitions will inevitably change. How to do this, I will tell a little later.

How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is made of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the GKL?

It can be attached:

To the one I already mentioned gypsum glue;
On mounting foam;

Mounting foam has excellent adhesion to any surfaces.

If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction adhesive.

On glue

How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesion coatings;
Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. It is necessary to primer twice without intermediate drying. The primer will stick the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the GKL from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied with a sprayer, a long-haired roller or a soft wide brush;

Primer main wall under the GKL sticker.

After the soil has completely dried, the recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. You can use a homemade solution of Portland cement and sifted sand in a ratio of 1: 3, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
The seal after drying is re-primed;
After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

So liquid nails are applied to the back surface of the sheet.

The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

On the foam

How to fix drywall with foam?

Foam differs from liquid nails and other building adhesives in two ways:

It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they can not be sealed - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
The foam expands upon setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after it is pasted.

How to do it? Here is a simple instruction:

Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws measuring approximately 8x80 mm in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
Apply foam on the back of the sheet - dotted with a step of 20 cm or stripes around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their hats do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when mounted on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on mounting foam and fixed with dowel-screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled by a long level or a rule and a plumb line. Dowel-screws will not allow drywall to bend in the direction from the wall, and expansion of the mounting foam will prevent bending in the opposite direction.

For gypsum glue

How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile on gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue is suitable for this purpose (Perlfix, Volma Montazh, etc.), but also any gypsum putty or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum glue.

Work in this case also begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be cleaned of dirt, dust-free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive composition is prepared as follows:

Glue, plaster or putty is poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are as evenly distributed as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, a lot of dry lumps will remain at the bottom of the container.

Then the future glue is aged for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture should be saturated with water;
The mixture is mixed manually (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate nozzle will also work. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

Glue can be applied with equal success both to the wall and to the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply to the wall: GKL already weighs 30 kg, and together with glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in increments of 15 - 20 centimeters; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will significantly simplify its fastening with dowels and screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the GKL.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and leveled using a level and a rule in a vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the adhesive ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the GKL are corrected with light strokes of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fixing drywall when finishing door and window slopes. The final gypsum putty Eurogypsum was used as glue.

The slopes of the doorway in the photo are finished with drywall, planted on finishing putty Eurogips.

A couple of nuances:

When installing adjacent sheets, you need to pay Special attention the mutual position of their edges. The differences will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unnecessarily increase the cost of money and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth first sticking beacons from GKL scraps on the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, dowel-screws partially screwed into the wall can also be used; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out a few turns.

The sheets are aligned in the same plane with the help of improvised beacons.

Sealing and puttying

How to seal seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: thermal expansion has not been canceled. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared at the seams without reinforcement.

So that the seams do not crack, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, a sickle is traditionally used - a rolled self-adhesive glass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with sickle.

The seam is puttied in at least two passes. The cavity of the seam is filled with putty with the first pass, the fiberglass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered with the second pass. Sometimes a third pass is required: when drying, the putty shrinks slightly, but noticeably, and the seam after it has set looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

It is prepared in small batches. The specific size of a single serving of putty depends on your puttying skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. Lifetime ready mix does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

Wash dishes and spatulas before preparing each new serving. Otherwise old putty forms solid lumps in solution. These lumps, when putty is applied to the GKL, will leave untidy furrows in it;
To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula with a width of 10 - 12 cm. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and densely as possible;

The edges of sheets cut to size are cut before puttying sharp knife.

The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. Putty is previously applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with sickle, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than a mesh and does not allow filling a seam through it, so the reinforcement technology differs markedly from the one I described above:

The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - twice);
Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to the fiberglass laid on top of the drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its smaller thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to sickle.

It is more convenient to cut fiberglass for stickers in pieces about a meter long.

The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel spatula. If you do it with your bare hands, there will be a lot of the thinnest fragments of fiberglass in the skin. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with the final layer of putty and polished.

Do I need to putty the entire surface of drywall?

This is not required, but desirable. Putty creates a separating layer on the surface, which allows, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off the top layer of kraft paper. In addition, puttying the surface will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Plastering plasterboard walls.

It is convenient to use a special corner spatula to align the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to do in two layers “on a peel”: the putty is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread on the plasterboard with sliding movements as thin as possible. After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated again.

There should be at least two weeks between plastering the drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you hurry with painting, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of dye layers.

How to sand?

I use a vibrating sander for this purpose with sanding grids No. 80 (first pass) and No. 120 (second pass) fixed to it. Sanding is best with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities due to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibrating grinder will greatly speed up the work compared to a hand grater.

Do not be too lazy to put on goggles and a gauze bandage or a respirator. Gypsum dust strongly irritates the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

How to fix a hinged shelf or cabinet on a wall pasted over with plasterboard?

If the wall is sheathed with GKL on self-tapping screws or pasted over with building glue, there will be no problems in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel-screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that there is a gap between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed during installation.

At the stage of wall sheathing, the problem is solved in two ways:

In the place of the intended attachment of the hanging furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back side of the plasterboard or to the wall;

The more often glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the lining will withstand.

The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife around the perimeter of the embedded part and cut out the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the mortgage from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall, you can use elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts. The fixing angles of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fasten the cabinet, it is enough to supply the wedge anchor with a couple of additional nuts.

For light shelves, Molly anchors can be used. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in finishing his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. Additional information your attention will be offered a video in this article. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Not a single repair in our time is complete without drywall. Walls are constantly sheathed with this material, they are made from it various designs and they finish the ceilings. Typically for mounting drywall sheets pre-mount the frame on which the material is fixed. Increasingly, however, people are looking to attach drywall to a wall without a profile. What is it connected with? First of all, with the desire to save time, money and labor resources.

But can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? The question is ambiguous. Experienced craftsmen it is recommended to mount a metal or wooden frame and only then fix gypsum boards on it. However, at correct installation, you can install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times, and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the GKL without a frame just for the sake of saving can result in high costs in the future. You can fix drywall in this way, for example, if you are doing repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of exotic ways fastening drywall without a profile is gluing it to the mounting foam.

Conditions for fastening without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall GKL or GVL, you need to follow a series necessary conditions, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not even have any the slightest inclination. There are situations when the wall does not stand evenly enough and in such cases it is carried out, the frame is partially installed. Metal profiles in this installation option serve only as an equalizer for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the drywall sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is understood that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along transverse metal profiles. If you fasten the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there will be nothing to fasten them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, then there is an option to level it with a starting putty, in which ten to fifteen percent of gypsum must first be added. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied around the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much larger, then plasterboard beacons can be used instead of frame profiles. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the adhesive mixture dries, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After the final installation of the sheets has been carried out, it is necessary to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Required Tools

For finishing, you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

Knife, with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
Electric jigsaw or drywall saw;
Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
Nails or screws;
Building level;
Simple pencil;
Plumb;
Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
Putty knife. It is better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
Rubber mallet;
Ordinary hammer;
Pliers;
Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used in the course of work.

Plasterboard sheets;
Glue, for working with plasterboard sheets. You can also use starting putty if you add ten percent of gypsum or PVA glue to it;
Water;
Primer;
Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
Serpyanka;
Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to drywall a brick or concrete wall, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with a solution. Then the surface needs to be primed. Soil must be diluted strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it is written on the package that the primer is ready for use, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If preserved on the wall old plaster, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a solution, and then with a primer.

It is categorically impossible to attach drywall sheets to walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and fasten it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect with the help of a level and a plumb line for deviations from the vertical and in the alignment. If it is possible, then all the convex places must be knocked down, and the depressions should be covered with mortar in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply wash off. Sheets of drywall, on the side of attachment to the wall, must also be lubricated with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut out of drywall sheets and lubricated with a primer on both sides.

If this is necessary, the next step in the installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass on the ledges of the wall, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Mounting on flat and curved surfaces

If the wall surface is relatively flat, then beacons will not have to be used. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water to make glue. If you do not have a mixer, then you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in water, and only then pour the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into a stone. Naturally, after that, it can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip around the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. To make the fastening sufficiently reliable, you need to glue more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Attach the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If you have any doubts, then press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. Just enough solution is applied to the sheet to allow for this post-adjustment. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since the drywall sheet can simply break during the peeling process.

If the wall is tilted or rotated, then beacons will have to be used. Use a strong thread to make a net indicating the desired verticality and flatness. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. You need to install them so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first option. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and sickle.

If you attach drywall sheets to a wooden wall or ceiling, then everything is much easier. To install such a sheathing, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If wooden wall not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden overlays, and all bulges can be removed with an ordinary planer.

As you can see, there are different ways installation of drywall sheets, but the most reliable way installation of GKL - installation on metal carcass. Only in this way will the sheets hold firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most exquisite materials finishing lose all their gloss against the background of depressions or bumps of wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of the walls during the repair can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire-resistant, common for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600x1250, 1200x2000, 1200x2500, 1200x3000 allow the use of this material with virtually no waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for wallpapering and applying textured plaster, and laying tiles.

There are two ways of fastening the GKL to the walls - frame and frameless.

The first option is much more suitable for large rooms, where there is no space limit. The profile frame and the drywall mounted on it take at least 40 mm of the floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - GKL).
The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly on vertical surfaces room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of walls assembled from plasterboard.

There are three options for frameless installation of drywall sheets on walls:

Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
Installation of plasterboard dowels.
Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the alignment of the walls with drywall sheets, it is necessary to make a general analysis of the proposed activities and choose a method for their implementation.

The overall assessment of the situation includes:

Checking the verticality of the walls. Produced using a level or plumb.
Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is performed with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
Checking outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often it is 90 degrees). The tool is most often a square.
Assessment of door and window openings. A check is made vertically and horizontally and the need to adjust the openings with the help of GKL is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, the alignment method is selected. Small errors can be completely eliminated by fixing sheets of drywall directly to existing walls. Large drops and irregularities will require either a frame or GKL installation on a special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It could be a tree aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation work will consist in removing the protruding sections of the plane of the walls. tubercles wooden base leveled with a hammer and chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a puncher with a chisel.

Sheets of drywall are attached in a checkerboard pattern. Hardware for fastening are wood screws. The screw length varies depending on the wall material. For relatively even cladding wooden surface self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting GKL on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of the recessed head of the hardware. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fastening step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the attachment points of the GKL in the areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the uneven walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to reach the hardware, leaving small space between base and sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will significantly reduce.

GKL fastening with dowels

If it is not possible to screw self-tapping screws into walls and partitions, then drywall can be mounted on dowels. For non-plastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, driven dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

The preparation of seats for the installation of dowels is carried out by a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic clip should have a “sweat” ending.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to the help of a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer - a gasket under the screw head. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for plasterboards. To do this, the bracket is cut with scissors for metal into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws, depressions on the plane of walls and partitions can become a problem. The recipe for elimination is to not pull the dowel core all the way.

Installation of drywall on the adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way to level walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

Inspection of the leveled surface. Includes the definition of protruding places of walls and piers. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned up.
Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, loose plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
Priming of walls and partitions. As a primer, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be used.
Installation of beacons. The main task of such an event is to create points of support for the back side of the GCR. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware should create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
Installation of drywall sheets. Special glue mass superimposed on the wall and on the plasterboard. The glue is applied not in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm more than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by a rule with a level.