Filling a cesspool with your own hands. Construction and calculation of a cesspool in a private house, how to make it yourself. Preparation for work

Residents apartment buildings they don’t have to worry about the removal and disposal of biowaste; housing and communal services do everything for them. Those who live in a private house need to resolve such problems themselves. One solution is to build a cesspool. It does not require large installation costs and performs an excellent sanitary cleaning function. You just need to know how to make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands.

Choosing a cesspool location

There is a system of rules and regulations that controls the construction of a cesspool for a private home. Sanitary standards determine the location of the cesspool on the site and the distance from it to various outbuildings. When planning pits for biowaste, the following rules must be taken into account:

• The cesspool should be located at a distance of at least a dozen meters from residential premises;
• There should be more than a meter from the cesspool to the fence;
• When installing a bottomless pit, it is necessary to take into account the location of the wells. The nearest well must be at a distance of no less than 30 meters.

The simplest cheap options

The predecessor of the cesspool was a hole dug in the soil. ordinary pit, whose walls were smeared with clay and reinforced with boards. Then they began to bury old barrels, tanks, and other old containers into the ground. Today, such tanks for collecting and partially purifying waste are installed only when the daily volume is no more than one cubic meter.

If the owner of a private house does not really want to spend money on arranging a cesspool, he can use old car tires. You just need to put them in a dug basin, connecting them with bolts. Then the basin is covered with earth, a concrete slab is placed on top with a hole for the ventilation pipe, as well as a hatch for pumping out.

Popular types of structures

Based on the characteristic design differences, pits for biowaste are divided into absorbent and sealed. Septic tanks are used to collect, store and treat waste. These are structures with a more complex design.

Absorption tanks (bottomless)

A distinctive feature is that there is no bottom; therefore, the liquids, after being cleaned with a sand, gravel and brick filter, are sent to the soil. The absorption tank is the most inexpensive and easiest to install. Due to the partial infiltration of treated wastewater into the soil, there is much less need to call a sewage service.

The absorbent type is selected if there is no need to drain a lot of wastewater. The soil will not be able to accept and process large volumes. Also, such a pit cannot be called an environmentally friendly option, because waste entering the soil will pollute it.

Sealed containers

They are closed waterproof concrete/brick/gas silicate tanks. They must be emptied regularly after filling. If you know how to properly make a sealed type cesspool, you will be guaranteed the absolute absence of odors characteristic of a toilet, but sometimes you will have to call the sanitation service. Remember that the use of cinder blocks for the construction of a cesspool is unacceptable (they quickly collapse when in contact with water).

The simplest solution for arranging a cesspool is to install one purchased in a store. plastic tank. It does not need to be sealed, but you will need to fill the bottom of the basin with a special cement screed and strengthen the walls with reinforcement.

Simple homemade cleaning structures

These are structures that not only perform deep cleaning, but also transform wastewater into fertilizer useful for the garden. They are often a two- or three-chamber system. In the 1st chamber, collection and partial cleaning are carried out, in the 2nd and 3rd, complete recycling of waste occurs.

You can use old car tires. To install such a cesspool, you will not need a solid foundation made of concrete; a dense one will suffice. sand cushion with crushed stone thirty-five centimeters thick, as well as screeds one decimeter.

• To increase the reservoir capacity, the tire sides must be trimmed;
• A vertical well is placed in a well made of tires. concrete pipe with a diameter approximately a couple of times smaller than that of tires. The upper section of the pipe is located a decimeter lower than the well constructed from tires;
• The bottom of the pipe is filled with concrete to form a solid cylinder.

Holes will need to be made on top for infiltration and installation of pipes that will provide overflow. The sewerage pipe must be inserted into a concrete tank. The areas where sewer pipes enter vertical concrete pipes must be sealed.

How to build an absorption pit from concrete rings

• It is necessary to dig a mine-type basin, its diameter should be approximately eighty centimeters larger diameter rings You will need three rings;
• A concrete screed is made around the perimeter. This is the future base for the rings;
• In the lower ring, make holes every decimeter so that the purified liquid has the opportunity to leave the sump. The diameter of the filtration holes is five centimeters;
• The depth of the structure underground should not be more than three meters, otherwise it will be difficult to remove sediment from the cesspool;
• Approximately a meter deep, the finished pit is filled with sand, brick, crushed stone and gravel mixed with soil;
• The outer basin is filled with the same mixture. Before backfilling, the cesspool is waterproofed, which will protect the structure from groundwater;
• At the end there is a plate with a pair of holes. One is intended for the hatch, the second for ventilation;
• To increase the quality of purification, it is recommended to place the filter well slightly higher than the cleaning tank.

Installation of a sealed structure

The construction method is similar, but there is no need to make infiltration holes, you need to completely concrete the bottom. It is recommended to reinforce the lower platform with concrete. To prevent the reinforcement from getting stuck in the concrete, it must be raised slightly and secured on pegs.

It is advisable to seal the walls. An inexpensive internal insulator is bitumen, and clay is an external insulator. If the walls of the cesspool consist of brickwork, they can be covered with plaster.

Laying bricks takes much longer than installing concrete rings. A concrete screed is made below, the bricks are laid in a circle/square. Before you start laying, you need to wait a week after creating the concrete platform.

The sewerage pipeline must be tilted slightly to ensure spontaneous drainage.

Toilet cesspool

Those who want to build a toilet should also know how to properly make a cesspool. Most often, a small hole is dug, to which you can freely drive up to empty it. The cesspool is lined with bricks or filled with concrete.

The depth can be arbitrary, it all depends on the soil of the litter. It is recommended to dig a cesspool down to a layer of sand that will absorb waste. The bottom of the pit is filled with sand and gravel mixture and crushed stone.

Other dimensions are installed on site. Ventilation is recommended. A pipe that rises about six decimeters above the roof of the restroom is suitable.

For residents of city apartments, all communal amenities become familiar and natural for each apartment. A completely different case is country houses, in which all such amenities are constructed with your own hands.

Sewage, in the latter case, is a priority element. In some cases, such a system can be connected to a central network, but in others it is necessary to use similar autonomous methods, such as a cesspool, storage tanks or. Each of these methods has its own individual characteristics.

Features of a cesspool in a private house

Selecting a location

A cesspool is a container into which waste is drained and accumulated. domestic water. To determine optimal place its location will need to be analyzed land plot and find the most suitable site.

A schematic plan of a private plot can help in this matter, in which mandatory The locations of the following important elements are indicated:

• Residential building
• Household The buildings
• Water wells
• Gas pipeline
• Water supply pipes

Also, this diagram should indicate the landscape elements present on the site. To make it easier to locate a cesspool, you need to mark on the plan neighboring buildings and other structures located in neighboring areas, including wells and all communications.

When planning the location of the pit, you need to take into account the direction of movement of groundwater. This information can be obtained from the relevant services.

On this moment Some sanitary standards are stipulated for the distance of this building from other structures:

1. The neighboring building and adjacent buildings are 10-12 m.
2. From the boundaries of your site - 1.5 meters
3. Your own house - 8-10 m.
4. Wells for water intake - at least 20 m.
5. Water supply networks – at 25 m.
6. Groundwater – at least 25 m.
7. Gas pipes – about 5 meters

When arranging a cesspool, it will be necessary to take into account the condition of the soil in which this structure will be placed. At clay soil, water intake wells must be located at least 20 meters from the pit. With loamy soil, this distance increases by 10 m and will be 30 meters from the cesspool. For sandy or super-sandy soil - at least 50 meters.

Also, it is necessary to take into account another extremely important point. It is strictly forbidden to build cesspools along the groundwater flow, as in this case they may become contaminated.

The first value that needs to be calculated before building a cesspool is its volume, since the efficiency of the entire sewer system and the frequency with which the drain will need to be cleaned will depend on it. This value can be calculated based on the number of people living on the site. For example, only 4 people live in a private house, 3 of whom are adults, and the last one is a child.

As a rule, one adult produces at least 0.5 cubic meters of waste, and for a child given value decreases exactly by half - 0.25. If water consuming devices are connected to the cesspool drain, they are also taken into account. IN in this example they are not involved.

As a result, we get 1.75 m 3 of waste going to the cesspool (0.5 + 0.5 + 0.5 + 0.25). The resulting number should always be rounded up to help avoid overfilling wastewater tanks. In this example, the number will be 2 cubic meters.

The total volume of the cesspool tank should exceed 3 times the volume of waste waste. That is, 3*2=6 m3. This is the optimal volume of a cesspool tank for a family of 3 adults and 1 child.

To erect a similar structure for summer cottage, it is necessary to use a different construction scheme. For such a case, you can take for optimal value for 1-2 cubic meters, since people come to such areas not so often and not in very large groups of people. But, if other circumstances are present, it is possible to increase the volume of the reservoir for the summer cottage.

Having the required volume of the tank, you will need to determine it design dimensions. The depth of the structure is determined by determining the level of groundwater and the features of further maintenance of the cesspool. To periodically clean the tank from accumulated liquid and solid growths on the walls and bottom, you will need to use the services of vacuum cleaners.

The hose of a sewage disposal machine rarely exceeds a length of 3 meters, so you should not make the depth of the tank exceed this value. Otherwise, this may affect the quality of cleaning the cesspool. The most popular cesspool depths are 2.5 and 2.7 m. The maximum depth of 3 m is used extremely rarely, but this depth can be compensated for using a sand-crushed stone cushion. This is most relevant for leaking drains.

Also, it is worth remembering that if the underground groundwater level is higher than 2 meters, there is no point in constructing a cesspool, since this can lead to the filling of the reservoir with groundwater. This will mean a drop in the efficiency of the entire sewer system.

In this case, most suitable options there will be septic tanks or barrels required size, but you will need to protect them with a casing made of cement or metal mortar.

Construction of cesspools

Cesspool without bottom

At first glance, the construction of such a structure is quite easy:

1. The optimal location of the cesspool is selected
2. Dig a hole of suitable size
3. Cover the walls with a layer of concrete, brick or concrete rings
4. Dig a trench for sewer pipes to pass through
5. Lay pipes from the building to the cesspool
6. Build the ceiling

If a person lives in a house, it must have a sewer system, since waste products still need to be removed somehow. And it’s hard to disagree with this, isn’t it? Modern industry offers many solutions: from multi-section septic tanks to neat dry closets. But an ordinary cesspool in a private house is still relevant and in demand.

But, before you start building a cesspool on your site, you will have to weigh the pros and cons. After all, an incorrectly chosen location, and the design of the cesspool itself, subsequently threatens to result in many problems. The most common of them is the appearance of an unpleasant odor. We will tell you how to avoid this problem.

In the article we collected and summarized information about the types and design features cesspools. In addition, here you can find useful tips and recommendations on how to properly select and build a sewer system on the site. The material is accompanied themed photos and video.

A cesspool is perhaps the oldest and simplest type of sewage system. It is a depression in the ground in which wastewater is accumulated and partially processed.

Any wastewater contains a certain amount of bacteria that absorb and transform these accumulations. Part of the filtered wastewater passes into the underlying soils.

Everything that has not been processed and has not gone into the underlying layers should be periodically removed from the cesspool so that the container does not overfill.

Image gallery

Today, people live in an era of existence of all kinds of conveniences, and to many residents, especially children and youth, it seems that these conveniences have always existed. These amenities include a sewer system.

Being in the city, we cannot imagine life without a central sewer system, and yet in many populated areas our country, such systems do not exist. As a result, residents construct local sewer pits for a specific house or several residential buildings. In this article we will get acquainted with the process of self-device sewer pit in a private house.

Types of pits

Sealed sewer pit

Our country is large and the soils are different, and a sewer pit is a depression of several meters in the ground. Therefore, there are many laws that prohibit or permit the construction of certain types of sewer pits in various conditions.

Sewage pits differ in the material of manufacture, cleaning methods and other parameters. Most experts divide sewer pits into two types:

• Leaky sewer pit. For natural drainage, soil or a cushion of crushed stone is used, which is not poured cement screed or other material that does not allow water to pass through.
• Sealed sewer pit. This type of pit is used in places where groundwater pass at a shallow depth, and creating a hole without a bottom can lead to harmful substances from the sewer entering the groundwater. The latter will lead to danger for flora and fauna.

Due to the danger of soil contamination, in some places the law prohibits the construction of sewer pits without a bottom; permission is given only for sealed pits. A sealed pit is the same as a filling well that does not allow water to pass through, only instead of filling clean water

, such a pit will be filled with sewage.

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Choosing the right place

Once you have decided that you need to make a sewer pit, go around your site and choose its location. From the right choice place depends, firstly, on safety for humans and environment

• • , secondly, ease of maintenance. Approach this issue responsibly and consider the following factors: Remoteness. The sewer pit must be located at a certain distance from residential buildings, as well as from the place where the fence takes place. When making a pit without a bottom, it must be located at a distance of 20-30 meters from the well or well and living space. If a sealed pit is used, it can be located 5 meters from the same structures. Compliance with these factors will prevent harmful substances from getting into drinking water and unpleasant odors to the apartment.

Important condition: The distance between sewer pits and residential buildings and water intake points should be 5-30 meters, depending on the type of pit.

• Availability. No matter how large a sewer pit is, there will come a time when it needs to be cleaned. For this case, your pit should be located in a place accessible to the access of sewage disposal equipment. And don’t listen to the talk that some of your friends have been using a septic tank for 10 years and the pit has never been filled, the pit will still have to be cleaned.

Construction stages

Before starting the construction of the pit, it is necessary to make calculations and determine the required volume of the future sewerage system. These calculations are simple, but depend on several factors:

• Temporary housing. If you are going to build a sewer system in temporary or seasonal residence, for example, in a dacha, you can calculate the volume using the formula 0.5 cubic meters per resident. That is, if 4 people live, this figure will be 2 cubic meters.
• Permanent home. In case of constant use of water, dishwasher and washing machine, other water-consuming elements, the formula will be different - from 1.5 to 2 cubic meters for each resident. That is, with the same four residents, the required volume will increase to 6-8 cubic meters.

Advice from experienced builders: When calculating the volume of the pit, it should be taken into account that its depth should be no more than 3 meters. Otherwise, the sewage disposal equipment will not reach the bottom, as a result of which thick residue will accumulate in the pit.

On this preparatory work ends and you can begin the actual construction of the sewer pit. The process itself consists of four stages:

How to make a porch in a private house with your own hands:

• . After the volume calculations have been carried out, you will already know what size you need to prepare the foundation pit. Please note that the container will overlap at the top, so add about half a meter to the depth.
• Construction of a sewer pit. This is the most important and responsible moment. You need to choose which type of container you will use:
  • • An ordinary unsealed pit. This option is only suitable for non-permanent residential buildings.

  

  Scheme of a sewer pit made of tires

  • • Device from car tires. Distributed in rural areas, since the price of old tires is low, and in some cases it is possible to purchase them for free. When laying tires one on top of the other, the joints must be coated with bitumen for tightness, and the bottom can be filled concrete screed, the result is a finished container.
  • • Brickwork. A more expensive and labor-intensive type of container is brickwork. Round or round walls are laid around the perimeter rectangular shape(as convenient) the bottom can be left from the soil or filled with concrete screed.

  

  Sewage pit from concrete rings

• Reinforced concrete rings. The inconvenience of concrete rings is that for installation you will need to call a crane, since they cannot be installed manually. However, the process itself will occur much faster than the previous type of device. You can do the same with the bottom as with the above proposed option.

Important point: containers made of brick and reinforced concrete rings are treated with a moisture-resistant coating on the outside and inside. Inside - with bitumen, outside - clay barrier walls are created.



Plastic storage

• Metal and plastic storage devices. Most convenient types The installation of sewer pits will be ready-made metal or plastic containers. You will not have any difficulties finding such containers - they can be purchased at garden and home stores. The volumes of such containers vary - from 1 to 10 cubic meters. To increase their service life, metal containers must be treated with anti-corrosion agents.
• Plastic containers, protected around the perimeter concrete walls to eliminate the possibility of deformation, and are also secured to the ground with cables.
• Installation and supply of pipes. At this stage, a sewer pipe is laid from the living space, preferred option - plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. In addition to this pipe, it is necessary to make a gas outlet so that gases do not accumulate in the sewer pit.
• Floor installation. The final stage of constructing a sewer pit is covering it. Most often, reinforced concrete slabs are used as flooring, combining strength and durability. Some craftsmen cover it with iron sheets, but their service life is noticeably shorter than that of the first option. The joints of the plate and the container must be sealed. The same bitumen or liquid clay can be used as a sealant.

Cleaning methods

Science does not stand still, and even in such a matter as sewerage cleaning, progress is being noticed. Until recently, there was only one way to clean a septic tank - mechanically. Today two more types have been added to them - chemical and biological.

Mechanical cleaning of sewer pit

Mechanical method. It involves pumping out sewage using sewage trucks. This is done quickly and the cost is not too expensive. But there is a big minus.

In case of use mechanical method not cleared drainage system the bottom of your sewer pit, as a result of which it will fill each subsequent time faster than the previous one.

Chemical and biological method. If you are interested deep cleaning and disinfection, use a chemical or biological cleaning method. As a result of the use of chemicals and biological bacteria, the following occurs:

• decomposition of large compounds;
• wastewater disinfection;
• cleaning the drainage system;
• reduction in precipitation volume;
• elimination of odors.

The chemicals used to clean sewers can be divided into four groups:

Chemical cleaning of sewage system

• ammonium compounds;
• nitrogen fertilizers;
• formaldehyde;
• bleaching powder.

Biological drugs are presented in a fairly wide selection, for example, Vodogray, UNIBAC and others.

The difference between biological drugs and chemical drugs is their harmlessness. They do not harm the animal, flora and the container itself, located in the sewer pit.

The result of the work performed will please you for a long time. Agree - the amenities in the house are much preferable to the amenities in the yard, especially in our harsh climate.

The presented types of sewer systems can be built on almost any site with minimal costs Money, and alternating cleaning methods will allow you to keep the sewer system in good condition for a fairly long period of time.

Sewage is one of the most important benefits of civilization. Without sewerage, washing, showering, taking a bath and going to the toilet are accompanied by difficulties and inconveniences. But connect to a centralized sewer system not always possible - it is not available for remote villages, summer cottages and cottage communities. The way out of the problem is to set up your own facilities for collection, cleaning and disposal. Wastewater. The simplest and cheapest solution is to build a cesspool without a bottom with your own hands.

How does a cesspool without a bottom work?

There are two types of cesspools:

• sealed;
• leaky, without bottom;

The first are a simple structure made of concrete, brick or plastic, completely waterproof. They collect liquid and solid waste coming through the sewer pipe. Regularly, on average 1-2 times a month, a sewer truck must pump them out of a sealed drain pit. The services of such specialists are expensive, so some owners are thinking about how to partially recycle sewage using soil purification.

And most simple option are leaky cesspools. They are a shallow well made from bricks, old tires or concrete rings. They do not have a sealed bottom - either the soil itself or a filter bed made of sand, gravel or crushed stone is located there. Also, many holes are created in the walls of the cesspool for the purpose of drainage. Through them and the bottom, liquid sewage partially goes into the ground and passes through natural soil purification. The rest remains in the well and is pumped out by a sewer truck 1-2 times a year.

You might be interested in information about what it looks like

Such a structure is suitable for solving the problem of waste in a country house visited during the spring and summer, or for village house, where 1-2 people live. For big family without a bottom are not an effective and environmentally friendly solution - in this case, it is preferable to build several concrete wells.

Advantages and disadvantages of a cesspool without a bottom

Let's briefly look at the good and bad aspects of a leaky cesspool design. Its advantages include the following.

1. Extremely low price structures compared to the cost of a full-fledged septic tank - both factory-made and home-made, built from rings or monolithic concrete.
2. Simplicity of creation - a pit and a trench for the pipe are dug, the walls of the cesspool and a lid are installed, and the connection is made. Without any problems, all these activities can be completed independently.
3. Speed ​​of construction - it’s quite possible to build a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings in a couple of days.
4. Lower costs compared to sealed cesspool– you can call a sewer truck not every month, but only 1-2 times in a whole year.

Due to its simplicity and maximum cheapness, such a sewer structure has serious disadvantages.

1. Environmental problems - if such a thing is placed near the source drinking water, then over time the latter may become unusable - sewage seeping through the soil will poison it with E. coli and other microorganisms. Drink from a similar well possible, but not safe.
2. Possibility of conflict with neighbors - those who live next to you are unlikely to like the existence of a potential source of pollution. But, as practice shows, this is a problem only for well-maintained cottage villages and gardening associations - in other places, most likely, neighbors have the same or even more simple structures for collecting sewage.
3. Problems with SES. If the sanitary and epidemiological service comes to your site to inspect it, it may consider the presence of a cesspool with waste seeping into the soil a violation of standards, with corresponding consequences.
4. Short-lived operation - it should be understood that such a cesspool is unable to function for a long time - over time, the soil around it will silt and stop letting water through in the same volume. As a result, the structure will fill with wastewater faster, so it will have to be moved to a new location or replaced with a full-fledged septic tank. Or use the services of sewer cleaners more often.

Choosing a location for the cesspool

It was mentioned several times above that a cesspool without a bottom is not The best decision from an environmental and compliance point of view sanitary standards. But a competent choice of location for its construction will minimize possible risks and avoid poisoning of reservoirs and wells.

It is worth saying that current sanitary and construction standards do not give a clear answer to the question of whether it is admissible or, conversely, inadmissible to build a cesspool without a bottom. Below are some excerpts from various documents.

So, if possible, a leaky cesspool should be created on soils with good water permeability and in places where the groundwater level is at least 1 meter below the bottom.

The list below gives the minimum distances between such a structure and various objects:

• from the cesspool to the drinking well - at least 50 m;
• to the reservoir - at least 30 m;
• to trees and vegetable gardens - at least 5 m;
• to the road or site boundary – from 2 to 4 m;
• to residential buildings – 5 m.

Advice! Before starting construction, familiarize yourself with how the sewage collection structures of your closest neighbors are constructed. Also, if the matter occurs at the dacha, discuss this issue with the chairman of the partnership. This will avoid unnecessary conflicts and reduce the likelihood of inspectors from the sanitary service visiting your site.

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings

The most popular material for self-arrangement of cesspools without a bottom, drainage wells and septic tanks are rings made of concrete. They have sufficient strength for such a structure, their installation does not take much time, and their low price makes these products accessible to any household. The process of making a cesspool without a bottom from concrete rings with your own hands is given below in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Important! Before you begin excavation work, determine how many concrete rings and what size you need. For convenience, the main characteristics of the most popular products are summarized in a table.

Table. Dimensions, weight and volume of concrete rings manufactured in accordance with GOST 8020-90.

Step 1. Start building a cesspool without a bottom by determining the location where it will be located. This is discussed in more detail in the previous section of the article.

Step 2. At the selected location, mark and determine the boundaries of the future pit. Its diameter is made 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete ring.

Step 3. Begin direct soil extraction. If the cesspool is supposed to be shallow and there is enough time, then you can do the excavation work manually. It is advisable to do this in pairs - one digs, and the other lifts the extracted soil upward. The work is greatly facilitated by using a bucket with a strong rope and a garden wheelbarrow (or walk-behind tractor).

Important! If, when digging a pit by hand, it is discovered that the soil is prone to crumbling, then for reasons of your own safety, work should be stopped immediately. Otherwise, there is a risk of suddenly being covered with earth. In such situations, you will have to bring in an excavator.

Step 4. Regularly measure the depth of the pit using a tape measure. For cesspools without a bottom, this depth does not exceed 3 m. Also remember that there must be a distance of at least 1 m between sewage drains and groundwater (preferably more).

Step 5. Delivery of concrete rings is usually carried out by the manufacturer, and they are brought on a truck with a crane. Check the availability of all ordered products and their quality.

Step 6. Using a crane, immerse the first concrete ring into the pit.

The ring is lowered into the pit

Important! To better fix the rings to each other, apply to their ends. cement mortar before installing a new product.

Step 7 In the same way, place the second and subsequent rings on the first ring. At the same time, align them relative to each other.

Step 8 Complete the laying of concrete products by installing the top round slab in which a hole is cut for the hatch.

Step 9 In loam conditions, effective drainage will require big square contact. If you live in an area where the soil does not absorb water well, drill a series of drainage holes average size. Their total area should reach 10% of total area inner surface structures.

Important! Often, a cushion of crushed stone with a thickness of 30 to 50 cm is poured onto the bottom of such a cesspool. Its use allows you to at least slightly clean the sewage drains going into the ground. At the same time, the filler of such a pillow requires regular replacement or washing, which is not the most pleasant and simple job. Each homeowner must decide for himself what is more important to him - the ability not to pollute the surrounding land and groundwater too much or the absence of the need to go down into the cesspool and replace the crushed stone filtration bed. Instead of the latter, you can use regular sand.

Step 11 Fill the space between the walls of the pit and the concrete rings with earth or sand.

Step 10 Complete the arrangement of a cesspool without a bottom made of concrete rings by connecting a sewer pipe and installing a hatch.

Prices for concrete rings

concrete rings

Video - Cesspool

Construction of a cesspool without a bottom made of brick

Another, no less popular option for a cesspool is a structure made of brick. It should be understood that it will require more time and effort than a structure made of concrete rings. But if you have a lot of unused bricks left on your site after building a house, fence or shed, then it makes sense to put them to work and make a cesspool without a bottom entirely with your own hands, without involving outsiders and construction equipment. It will help you in this matter step-by-step instruction with photographs below.

Step 1. To build a brick cesspool, like any other sewerage structure, start with earthworks– choose a location and start digging a pit of the appropriate size.

Important! The presence of a simple lifting device will greatly facilitate the process of extracting soil from the pit.

Step 2. Check the depth and diameter of the pit using a tape measure.

Step 3. Get rid of the earth removed during the construction of the pit. At the same time, leave part of it for subsequent filling of the roof of the structure.

Step 4. At the bottom of the pit, build a flat ring of bricks, as in the image below. It will play the role of a kind of foundation under the walls of the cesspool.

Step 5. Proceed with laying the lower part of the brick cesspool walls. If you have not previously dealt with such material, then building this structure will be good practice for you, during which you will gain basic skills in working with bricks.

Important! Sand-lime bricks absorb water well and gradually deteriorate. If you want your cesspool to last longer, replace them with ceramic ones.

Step 6. Continue laying and rise higher and higher, to the edge of the pit. Fill the space between its walls and brick with sand - it absorbs water well and partially filters it before it enters the ground.

Step 7 Complete the laying of the walls of the brick cesspool, not reaching a little to the surface of the ground.

Step 8 Take it to the cesspool sewer pipe from home.

Step 9 Strengthen the cesspool with metal corner installed as shown in the image below. Instead it is allowed to use wooden beam, but the latter will not last too long - over time, the material in an aggressive environment will begin to deteriorate and rot.

Step 10 Place the same flat brick ring on top as at the bottom of the cesspool.

Step 11 Close the cesspool from above concrete slab, manufactured in advance or poured on site. Do not forget about the hole for the hatch, through which sewage will be regularly pumped out.

A cesspool without a bottom is a quick and economical solution to the problem of sewage disposal. But, if possible, replace it over time with a full-fledged septic tank produced at a factory or.