Saw chains for longitudinal sawing. Saw chains. The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance.

The first chainsaws appeared at the beginning of the 20th century. The chains mounted on them with straight and flat teeth, like those of modern hacksaws, were distinguished by low efficiency, quickly dulled and required very laborious maintenance. For example, when sharpening, it was necessary to take into account that the teeth are divided into undercutting, cutting and shearing, have different cutting angles and orientation in relation to the direction of movement (they can be deflected to the left, right or located in the center).

There is no doubt that attempts to modernize circuits have been made repeatedly, but only one of them has been successful. Developed by Joseph Cox and implemented in metal in 1947, the new chain for universal sawing with an L-shaped contour cutting angle, due to increased productivity and simplified sharpening, very quickly forced its predecessor out of the market, and now almost all saw chains"flaunt" the characteristic sickle-shaped profile of the cutting links.

Technical parameters of saw chains

picking up chain for chainsaw, pay attention to its characteristics such as purpose, pitch, thickness of the drive link, profile height and depth of cut.

It is known that sawing wood along the fibers is more laborious than across, and for best results it is desirable to use chains that are appropriate for the task.

The main difference between longitudinal and transverse type chains is the attack angles of the cutting links. For lateral sawing chains, they are 25–35 degrees, for longitudinal sawing angles are sharper - from 5 to 15 degrees.

The use of chains inconsistent with their purposes threatens either with reduced productivity (if cross cutting is carried out with a longitudinal chain), or with increased “aggressiveness”, strong vibration and additional load on the engine. However, many users prefer not to waste time changing the chain and rip cuts are made with the same chain as lateral cuts, especially if the “quality” of the resulting cut does not require compliance with the “highest” level. Therefore, chains for longitudinal sawing are in demand in smaller quantities, and they are produced in a volume commensurate with demand. It is not surprising that it is much more difficult to buy such a chain than a transverse one. And the issue of their acquisition becomes really relevant if it is planned to use special machines like mini-sawmills.

Chain pitch- the distance between three successive rivets, divided by two. This is a defining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing chains are divided into five groups with a step of 1/4″, 0.325″, 3/8″, 0.404″ and 3/4″.

Step 1/4″(6.35 mm) is inherent in miniature chains mounted on low-power single-handed saws. True, in Russia they are practically not used.

Chains with steps 0.325″(8.25 mm) and 3/8″(9.3 mm) - the most common options. More than 80% of saws produced worldwide are equipped with them.

Steps 0.404″(10.26 mm) and 3/4″(19.05 mm) feature chains with larger links and higher performance. For several decades, they completed saws Russian production, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvester equipment.

The step is traditionally measured in inches, and is written as follows: three digits are ordinary, and two are decimal fractions. This is necessary to avoid confusion. In particular, the result of converting 3/8″ to a decimal is 0.375″ - the difference from the previous standard (0.325″) is just one digit.

The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance. But, on the other hand, the wider the cut, and a more powerful saw is required to overcome the cutting resistance. Small pitch chains have other advantages - more teeth per unit length, smooth movement in the kerf and therefore reduced vibration. Yes, and they cut cleaner.

Drive link thickness(shank) - the second most important parameter. During operation, the chain slides in the groove of the bar, and this sliding should be smooth, without hooks and at the same time without unnecessary “chatter”. In a word, the thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, increasing the reliability of the chain fit and eliminating the possibility of its "jumping off". The international community of manufacturers provides five standard sizes, measured in inches or millimeters (as you prefer): 1.1 mm (0.043″), 1.3 mm (0.050″), 1.5 mm (0.058″), 1.6 mm (0.063″) and 2, 0 mm (0.080″).

1.1mm- such thin drive links are typical for the smallest chains and saws of the corresponding size.

1.3mm- perhaps the most popular size, characteristic of household and semi-professional chains.

1.5 mm- ranks second in demand. It is put on more powerful and productive saws.

1.6 mm and 2.0 mm- such thick shanks are found only on chains for highly professional saws.

Profile height. Saw chains are either high or low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide bar. The former are used for professional purposes to obtain maximum performance. The second ones are installed on amateur-class chainsaws, since due to the increased support area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips, they are safer.

Depth of cut - the size of the gap between the upper edge of the tooth and the kerf limiter, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often there are samples with gaps of 0.025 ″ (0.635 mm) and 0.030 ″ (0.762 mm), less often - with gaps up to 0.070 ″ (1.778 mm), but they are intended for machine felling units.

The depth of cut largely determines the performance of the chain, its sawing speed. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. But in the pursuit of efficiency, one should not forget about vibration: chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move softer, “twitch” less. Therefore, manufacturers, in an effort to balance vibration and performance, very often install cutters with a minimum depth of cut on chains with a large pitch, and vice versa.

Engine volume. This parameter characterizes the saw and, it would seem, has nothing to do with the chain itself. However, in catalogs and brief annotations to chains, the volumes of engines that they are designed to work with are often given. And these recommendations should be followed. A chain installed on an engine that is too powerful for it will experience heavy loads and fail prematurely, without having worked out its motor resource. Option mi loads on the motor and other important components of the saw itself.

Components of a chain

Any saw chain is made up of three types of links: cutting, leading (shanks) and connecting. The strength of the connection is provided by rivets.

- perhaps the most complex part of the saw chain, which actually consists of two parts: a cut depth limiter and a cutting element with an L-shaped contour cutting angle.

The upper cutting edge of the link is always wider than the chain itself and the bar, due to which the cut is quite free, and the cutting resistance is minimal. The tooth works on the principle of a planer: the further the knife (upper cutting edge) is extended above the plane of the planer (cutting limiter), the thicker the chips.

The performance characteristics of the cutting link are determined by numerous factors, namely: the angle of sharpening of the upper edge and its working, cutting angle, the angle of the side edge (angle of attack) and the height of the cutting limiter. When sharpening, the values ​​​​of all these parameters must be clearly maintained, since even a small change can lead to negative consequences.

The cutting teeth are right-handed and left-handed, and they are strengthened alternately on the chain. But in general, incisors are divided into types depending on their profile. Upon careful study of the "figures" formed by the upper and side faces, two "boundary" options can be distinguished: the "seven" with an acute angle between the edges and the rounded "sickle". The first option is called a chisel (from the English chisel - a cutter, a chisel), the second - a chipper (from the English to chip - to chop into chips).

Chisel teeth are characterized by high productivity and sawing speed. Due to their configuration, they have a smaller area of ​​contact with the wood during operation, which reduces cutting resistance. This is a professional option, but it is very sensitive to an abrasive environment, it quickly becomes dull when working with “dirty” wood, and when sharpening it requires a clear exposure to all angles and parameters.

A sickle-shaped profile - a chipper - is less effective, since it has a slightly larger area of ​​\u200b\u200bcontact with wood, but it is also much easier to care for it - a rounded corner does not respond so painfully to minor errors during sharpening. Such links are good when working with contaminated wood.

All other profile options are various modifications of the two described above.

The top and side faces of the cutting element are usually covered with a thin film of some solid metal. Most often it is chromium, but sometimes a nickel-phosphorus alloy is used. The electroplated coating significantly improves the anti-friction properties of parts, increases wear resistance, hardness and, in fact, performs all the main work of cutting wood fibers. The steel "core" serves as a substrate or base for the coating.

Leading links(shanks) provide chain movement by transmitting rotation from the engine through the drive sprocket, as well as a stable position of the chain on the bar. In this case, the chain moves along a special groove provided in the design of the guide bar. The “side” responsibility of the drive link is to distribute the lubricant from the drive sprocket (where it is supplied by the oil pump) throughout the bar and chain. It should be noted that the number of shanks plays a major role in determining the chain length for a particular bar length, making it easier to select the right one and match the size.

Connecting links, corresponding to their name, combine the cutting and driving parts into a single unit, called a saw chain.

Cutting link parameters Types of cutting links Link order

Technological improvements

The cutting link concept developed by Joseph Cox has changed little over the years. Of course, they tried to modernize it, but all the improvements being made concerned either the lubrication system or the fight against vibration and kickback.

Lubrication system. Chain and bar lubrication – very important factor. The design of chain saws includes a pump that supplies oil from the tank to the cutting system through special holes. But then the chain itself distributes it. The shanks, passing the sprocket, "capture" the lubricant and "pull" it all over the bar and chain. For this, the lower part is designed in the form of a hook - so that they “grab” more and “lose” less. For additional retention of lubricant in the shanks, special holes are drilled or channels are milled. In the lubrication system, connecting links are also often used - they make additional recesses for lubrication.

Abundant lubrication reduces friction and heat, thereby not only increasing the life of each element, but also reducing chain stretch. So constant control over the lubrication process is in the interests of each user. It is carried out quite simply: when the chain is accelerated, microscopic drops of oil (if it is supplied in abundance) form an oil trail in the form of a strip on any light surface (for example, on a tree trunk that is going to be sawn), if you bring the end of the tire to it. No trace is an alarm indicating a lack of lubrication and requires an immediate solution to the problem (checking for oil, cleaning the tire groove, adjusting the pump, etc.). And one more thing: modern chainsaws allow the installation of chains and tires of various lengths, but before using a new headset, you need to make sure that the oil pump can cope with its "processing".

To improve the lubrication process, many manufacturers in Russia offer special oils. They are made on a vegetable basis (for example, rapeseed) using polymeric additives that self-neutralize within two hours upon contact with plants and soil. In addition to the environmental benefits, the lubricating properties of these oils are 30% higher than those of automotive oils. Yes, and they have about 25% less consumption.

Fight vibration and kickback. Vibration is dangerous because as a result of its prolonged exposure (as happens, for example, among professional fellers), the so-called Raynaud's symptom may develop: as a result of a deterioration in blood supply, the fingertips lose their sensitivity and react painfully to temperature changes.

The desire of manufacturers to reduce the harmful effects of high-frequency vibrations comes down mainly to the development of special shock-absorbing parts. Vibration is caused by the constant collision of the cutting teeth with the wood. At the moment when the cutter hits the wood with its working edge, it stops for a fraction of a second, being sandwiched between the tree and the guide rail. In this case, part of the wave impact energy is transferred through the chain and the drive sprocket to the operator's hands. Another part is also communicated through the chain to the guide rail and, again, to the operator's hands. If you reduce the force of impact, then the level of vibration will also decrease.

The beveled kerf limiter helps to reduce shaking - thanks to it, the chain moves softer, the tree slides more smoothly from the cutting tooth. The same purpose is served by special shock-absorbing ledges on the driving and connecting links.

Another effective method- beveled or high heel of the cutting link. This design allows the saw chain to sag slightly at the moment the cutting tooth hits the wood, and the link does not immediately hit the tire, and the force of this impact is noticeably reduced. As a result, not only vibration is reduced, but also bar and chain wear.

These structural elements are designed to help with a kickback - a situation that occurs when the user touches a hard surface with the toe of the tire while the chain is moving (if we draw an analogy with the clock dial - the sector "from 12 to 3 hours"). In this case, the saw bounces sharply, creating a traumatic moment. The bevelled cutter limiter and cushioning lugs minimize this effect.

Link order

Saw chains are classified based on their dimensions, design features and the order of the links. It can be standard, half pass or pass. In the first case, each cutter has two leading links. In the second, every third cutting link is replaced by a connecting one. And, finally, in the third case, a connecting link is installed in place of each second cutting link.

It is almost impossible to buy a finished chain with a “non-standard” alternation of links - they are not found in stores. Another thing is if the chain is riveted on its own. An artificially high distance between the incisors reduces their number, and, consequently, reduces the cost. However, increasing this distance increases vibration, reduces productivity and sawing speed.

Saw chain care and maintenance

A saw set - that is, a chain, a tire and a drive sprocket - is a consumable item, and, naturally, when purchasing a user, the question is: how long will this material last? But here there is no exact answer, since the “shelf life” of the above details largely depends on the type of work that will be performed with their help, on the degree of care for them, etc. Contaminated cutting material and careless handling significantly reduce the service life. For example, if during operation you touch the ground with the tip of the tire, then sharpening quickly “leaves” - sand (i.e. abrasive) in combination with a high speed of movement very quickly “take it down”. A nail in an old log cut for firewood can sometimes destroy even a new chain without hope of resuscitation. And there is no need to remind that such moments are dangerous not only for the chain and saw, but also for the operator himself.

If all the parts are lubricated on time and with high quality, the teeth get proper and accurate sharpening, then one tire will be enough for about one drive sprocket and three or four chains. Moreover, it is advisable to use the chains in turn: today - one, tomorrow - the other, and so on in a circle. Then the tire, sprocket and the chains themselves will wear out evenly. If you use only one chain, leaving the others "in reserve", then when the turn comes to them, they will work with "slip", experiencing additional dynamic shocks during movement, and will fail much faster. And all because the drive sprocket will wear out under the configuration of the shanks of the first chain.

Running in a new chain- the sequence of actions recommended by experts, providing it with a long "working" life. The first step is to soak the chain in oil for several hours. The meaning of the event is obvious: the lubricant has time to flow into all the small cracks, reliably “impregnate” the parts and rubbing joints. The second step is to install the chain on the tire and briefly "run" at idle. After stopping the engine after that, you need to check the tension of the chain and, if necessary, tighten it, after cooling it down. And after that, having made several cuts with minimal pressure on the tire and rechecking the chain tension, proceed directly to work.

chain tension- a very important point. A chain that is not tight enough will loosen and may come off the bar or even break. Constriction also does not bode well - this is excessive wear and increased engine loads. In addition, the design of almost all saws is such that the tension of the chain also strengthens the tire - in the “relaxed” state, the tire moves freely left and right. To check, it is enough at the top of the tire, approximately in the middle or a little closer to the tip, to take the chain by the tooth and pull it up. When properly tensioned, about a third of the shank remains in the bar groove. If more - the chain is overtightened, less - undertightened. In this case, the chain itself must move freely by hand.

Lubricant. We have already mentioned the need for thorough chain lubrication. But even if the chain and saw are equipped various systems improve lubrication, pre-soaking the chain in oil will not damage the chain, but rather reduce wear caused by friction and provide a longer service life.

Chain sharpening requires two rules. First, you should control the sharpness of the corners of the cutting link, the height of the cut limiter and the compliance of these parameters with those initially set at the factory. And, secondly, to clearly control the identity of the dimensions of all the cutting links of one chain.

What is the danger of non-observance of these principles? So, if the angles on all cutting elements are the same, but incorrect, the user risks either reduced performance or increased vibration and load on the engine. At different sharpening angles, due to uneven load on the cutting elements, vibration will increase and the likelihood of chain breakage will increase. In any case, premature failure will be provided to her.

That is why all the teeth of the chain must be sharpened evenly and at the same initially set angles, which, by the way, were established empirically. Then the chain will last as long and efficiently as possible. This is not a very difficult task, special devices for sharpening the chain allow you to maintain the specified parameters without hesitation and without resorting to precise measuring instruments.

Another important point is to track the slightest cracks, scuffs and bruises that can lead to a chain break. If the chain breaks during operation, it will slip off the bar and fly off at high speed down at the operator's feet. To avoid accidents, a chain catcher in the form of a ledge is installed on all saws. Still, the extra attention won't hurt.

It will be interesting for every user to know that any new chain sealed in a bag is just a stamping, and by sharpening it, you can increase productivity by about a quarter. In addition, for new chains, the height of the kerf stop, and in fact the thickness of the resulting chips, is automatically “tuned” to the minimum value, i.e. for working conditions in "harsh" conditions (winter, frozen and hard wood, etc.). And if sawing is done in the summer, and its object is a freshly cut pine, there is a reason to correct the limiter (using a special template) to speed up the work.

Maintenance tools for saw chains

Files for sharpening saw chains are selected individually for each chain, focusing on its pitch.

Files for sharpening saw chains are round and flat. The first are needed directly for editing cutting angles top and side edges. They resort to the help of the latter if it is necessary to correct the cut limiter.

Files are selected individually for each chain, focusing on its pitch. So, low-profile chains with the most common pitch of 3/8 ″ are undermined by a tool whose diameter does not exceed 4 mm. By the way, when grinding the link, you should make sure that about a fifth of the file protrudes above the cutting edge.

Round files are often equipped with "holders", "files", "mandrels", "calibers" - thin metal plates engraved with straight lines that make it easier to track angles. The operator can only make sure that the tire is strictly parallel to the desired strip. And a couple more mandatory requirements: the tool needs to be moved only in one direction, with the same number of movements for each tooth - this will ensure uniform grinding of the chain elements.

For every two or three sharpening of the tooth, the cut limiter is also sharpened, since the difference in height between it and the upper cutting edge should remain unchanged. To control this parameter, a special caliber is provided - a metal plate with a slot. It is “put on” on the cutting tooth and the limiter “peeping out” of the slot is ground down to the level of the caliber with a flat file.

The cutting teeth and the kerf stop are marked with marks showing how far they can be ground down. As soon as the length of the upper edge of the tooth is equal to the risk, the chain has exhausted its resource and needs to be replaced. Files also fail over time, become salted.

It is not uncommon for manufacturers to combine round and flat files and gauges into so-called sharpening sets, tailored to a particular type of chain. Sometimes, in addition to two files and a caliber, they contain some other accessories. For example, Oregon "diversified" its kit with a tire groove cleaner - a kind of metal hook for extracting sawdust from it.

Sets of files of various configurations, handles for them and calibers are found in the assortment of manufacturers such as Bahco, Husqvarna, Oregon, Stihl, etc.

produced not only as an addition to files. They can also be purchased separately. For example, Stihl has a very interesting device- A “pseudo-square” plate that helps determine the pitch of the saw chain and chain sprocket, the thickness of the drive links and the width of the guide bar groove. And Oregon has a "guide plate" in the range. It, like the gauge, helps to track angles when manually sharpening. A piece of plastic with straight lines applied at certain angles is attached with magnets to the saw bar. The rest, so to speak, is a matter of technique. Carlton has developed a special “device” (File-O-Plate) that allows you to control the correct observance of sharpening angles and the height of the cut limiter. Made of hardened steel, the device is used to prevent back tilt and sickle-shaped edge of the cutter - when installed on a saw chain, it allows you to notice the slightest deviations from the norm and correct them with a file. Moreover, it, like any other guide plates, does not allow the file to deviate from the desired direction, providing correct angle sharpening for all teeth. . In order to sharpen the chain with a file, it is not necessary to remove it at all, but it is very good to fix it securely together with the tire. You can’t drag heavy vise with you into the forest in case of minor repairs, but special clamps are fine. Suitable ones are available from Stihl and Oregon. They are equipped with sharp legs, allowing you to literally hammer them into any suitable stump.

Manual saw chain sharpeners are attached directly to the guide bar.

Sharpening machines serve the same purpose as files, but they are usually used when the chain is heavily worn or for large volumes of such work. In "profile" workshops and service centers, such machines are not uncommon.

Manual machines are adapted for installation directly on the guide rail. In principle, their main duty is to ensure the movement of the file in the right direction and to exclude even the possibility of deviation. In fact, they perform the same role as calibers, but their accuracy is an order of magnitude higher.

On electric sharpening machines, chains are usually undermined that have a lot of wear, and you can’t undermine them with a regular file.

Electric machines require a stationary workplace, but they also serve at the highest level. For example, grinding machine Oregon 32653A fits any chain from any manufacturer, the main thing is to install a grinding wheel of the appropriate size. With the help of special scales, the disk and the chain to be sharpened are set at the desired angle. There are several modifications of this machine. So, the Oregon 106540 ​​model is distinguished by a hydraulic system that provides automatic clamping of the vise when lowering the disc on the chain tooth and in the process of sharpening each tooth. The 106360 machine requires a 6-8 bar compressed air source to operate, but it has much higher productivity.

Stihl has also not let down its fans by releasing an electric sharpening machine for any Stihl chain. In the presence of additional equipment, the machine is suitable for servicing cutting systems of the most different devices- lawn mowers, motor shears, brush cutters.

Similar electric machines are also available in the Alpina range.

SHARPENING RULES The line for adjusting the sharpening angle of the upper edge, applied to the file holder, must be parallel to the chain The file should protrude 1/5 of its diameter above the top edge Periodically grind down the kerf stop to keep the depth of cut constant.

Even with the most careful operation of the chainsaw, the owner sooner or later faces the need to replace the saw chain. The range is represented by several types that differ in pitch, configuration of cutting links and other indicators. The best chainsaw chain is the model recommended by the instructions for use.

The guide bar and chain are interchangeable equipment, so the owners of budget chainsaws are given the opportunity to choose a saw set that is more wear-resistant and durable in operation.

The desire to increase the performance of the saw by installing a longer headset can only be realized if the engine has a sufficient reserve of power and torque.

It is best to independently choose a chain for a chainsaw that is optimal in terms of cost and operating parameter after consulting with an experienced specialist. Incorrect selection of headset components can reduce the performance of the chainsaw or initiate its early failure.

The quality of budget and branded chains is significantly different. Many owners of cheap household chainsaws prefer to operate their equipment with more advanced saw sets from the leading brands Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon. The unofficial rating recorded an increase in consumer demand for similar products under the Hammer and PowerSharp brands.

Standard length household saw tires with a power of 2-2.5 hp is 40-45 cm. The size of high-performance professional class analogues reaches 70 cm.

The higher price level of branded tires and chains is compensated by the high quality of complex sawing work, increased resource, stability of performance throughout the entire time of the service life specified by the manufacturer.

Properties of wear-resistant chains for general and special purposes

The types of household and professional grade chains intended for working with wood are distinguished by the quality of the material, the duration of the resource and the cost. Designed for work on concrete, the diamond chain, unique in terms of wear resistance, belongs to the category of special emergency equipment.

Wear resistant carbide chain might be one option. The overhaul life of such a product is an order of magnitude higher, but its sharpening requires special equipment that allows you to sharpen the cutting links at different angles, respectively, for standard transverse and longitudinal sawing.

The carbide chain is designed for efficient sawing of hardwoods and light building blocks. It should be borne in mind that when working on aerated concrete or foam concrete, the resource of a saw set, even the most prestigious brand, is reduced by 2-3 times.

Saw chain pitch characteristics

The selected chain must match the length of the guide bar and its design features. One of the main parameters for choosing a chain is its pitch, which is traditionally measured in inches.

In the cutting headsets of chainsaws of the household group, 3/8 inch chains are operated smoothly and safe in operation, in the metric standard - 0.325 mm.

Analogs with an increased step of the 0.404 ″ type are designed to be equipped with powerful and productive professional-level chainsaws, therefore they are practically not used in household chainsaws.

Self installation headsets with an increased pitch must be coordinated with the type and traction characteristics of the power unit.

Shank options

An equally important condition for the correct choice of saw chain is the thickness of its shank, which varies in the range from 1.1 to 2 mm. In inch standard shank sizes are 0.043/ 0.04/ 0.05/ 0.058/ 0.063 and 0.08 inches, respectively.

Chains with a minimum thickness are used in light low-cube models of a budget level. In household and semi-professional chainsaws, analogues resistant to constant and variable loads, with a thickness of 1.3 to 1.6 mm, are more in demand. Reinforced chains with 2 mm shanks, complete with professional chainsaw equipment.

Design features

In the medium and high class chain, each cutting link is equipped with two shanks, which inevitably affects the increase in its cost. Owners of their own chainsaws are offered more affordable models of throughput or semi-throughput type.

In the first case additional elements chains are located directly after the cutting link. In the second option, the connecting elements are mounted after every second pair.

In standard, pass and semi-pass chains, the number of saw links is 50, 40 and 37.5 percent, respectively. The simplification of the design of cheap products is inevitably accompanied by an increase in the load on the saw links, the need for frequent sharpening and a reduction in its service life.

Length

This chain indicator is determined by the number of links. Leading manufacturers indicate the length of the chain in inches or the number of links in the accompanying documentation. When buying any model yourself, it is recommended to know both parameters.

Professional grade circuit design features

The offered range can be divided into chains with chisel and chipper configuration of cutting links. In the first case, the link in the section is similar to the number 7. Such a profile provides increased productivity in sawing operations of increased complexity.

Significant disadvantage chisel "seven" - the complexity of manual sharpening, since even a slight deviation from the specified angle, the main advantages of the seven profile are canceled.

The chipper links are sickle-shaped. The increased area of ​​contact with the sawn wood creates additional loads on the engine. On the positive side, chipper chain designs are valued for their stability in high levels of contamination and less stringent requirements for precision finishing of cutting edges.

Types of materials

Standard saw chains are made from high quality chromium-nickel steel. To work with dense frozen wood chains with carbide links are recommended. A significant drawback of such models is the increased cost and the need to use special sharpening equipment with corundum nozzles.

Cutting depth and chain profile height

These parameters should be known to owners of professional models who sharpen chains manually at home. The depth of cut is adjusted by decreasing the stop height of each cutting link.

The parameters of the low profile and high profile chain are 0.025 and 0.03 inches, respectively. Knowledge of profile types is necessary for the correct selection of the height of the limiters.

Chain models for cross and rip cuts

The main range of saw chains with a cutting angle of 25-35° is designed for standard cross-cutting of wood. Models for longitudinal sawing in the domestic market are present in a minimum amount.

If necessary, the shortage problem is simply solved by changing the sharpening angle of standard chains to 5-15°. The tire in this embodiment is operated without changing the design.

All information provided is valid for Chinese chainsaws and their accessories. Most of the Chinese chainsaw range is made up of more or less successful copies of leading European developers, so all standards are almost identical.

How is the need to sharpen the chain manifested?

Dull saw chain teeth significantly increase sawing time. The malfunction is manifested by increased vibration, reverse shocks when the headset enters the cut, the ejection of small chips and a clear smell of burnt wood.

With the help of a manual sharpening device installed on the headset, cylindrical and flat files, the cutting edge of the saw links is restored without removing the chain from the bar. A more advanced and productive way is to fine-tune the chain in a specialized workshop.

gives a significant gain in time, guarantees the same angle on all cutting elements of the chain. User feedback on automated sharpening is mostly positive. On the negative side, there is a template finishing of each saw link, without taking into account its wear and other individual characteristics.

Pro recommendations for the operation and maintenance of saw chains

A significant part of the used headsets does not fully develop the assigned resource.

The main causes of forced wear:

• low efficiency of the lubrication system;
• high degree of wear of the drive sprocket;
• excessive saw chain tension;
• use of substandard and surrogate chain oils.

Experts advise operating a set of several chains, changing them as needed. In this option, you can use the advantages of more productive mechanized sharpening.

Worn and damaged chains should be discarded in a timely manner. Even in the presence of an emergency stop brake and a safety device, the operation of parts that have exhausted their service life is characterized by an increased risk of injury.

How to eliminate the risks of buying a chain counterfeit?

On the domestic market, there is a small but stable range of fake parts for chainsaws and component materials of Asian, mostly Chinese production.

With all the desire to match the quality of the European level, the technical and operational properties of Chinese copies are far from perfect, since they develop their resource somewhere by 50-70%.

This disadvantage is to some extent offset by lower cost. On the other hand, practice shows that only branded products guarantee long and trouble-free operation of chainsaw equipment.

Purchasing a part in a licensed or branded store will help you avoid the risks of buying a Chinese fake branded as a branded product.

Lumberjacks-professionals and beginners in this business are distinguished by the fact that the former understand exactly how to determine the quality of a chainsaw. It makes little sense to take into account the power of the device alone, since the configuration of the cutting element is of decisive importance. In the case of a chainsaw, this element is the chain, which consists of cutting, driving and connecting links. The cutting link includes a depth gauge and the cutting part itself, the operation of which is somewhat similar to a planer, that is, the thickness of the chips depends on how far the upper edge is extended. The drive link takes over the function of rotating the chain along the groove and distributing the lubricant, and the connecting links are designed to connect the remaining elements of the chain to each other. Their construction always takes place at a strict angle, the same applies to subsequent sharpening, since the slightest change in angle in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the chainsaw will not work.

The first time such tools began to be used back in 1920, but then the teeth were flat and straight, which could not but affect the final cutting result, and it was quite difficult to work with such a saw. A certain breakthrough in this area happened in 1947, when a fundamentally new type of chain teeth was introduced - L shape made it possible to cut the material much faster, in addition, the process of sharpening the teeth was simplified, so it is not surprising that the invention of Joseph Cox, who proposed such an idea, short term became a top seller. If we consider our days, then almost the same version of the chainsaw has come down to us, which is based on a chain system with a sickle-shaped cutting profile, for which the type of wood does not play a significant role.

What to look for when choosing a saw chain?

Among the key characteristics of a saw chain are its pitch, the thickness of the shank or drive link, the depth of cut and profile size, as well as the length of the chain. The direction of the cut should also be taken into account. It is from these parameters that one must build on when a chain is purchased to replace a worn one, or when it is required to purchase a chain for some special needs. In order not to be mistaken, you can look in the device passport, where the manufacturer indicates the main parameters of the saw. If we are talking about the initial purchase of a tool, then these parameters themselves must correspond to the purposes of using a chainsaw.

This parameter is a value in millimeters, although it is customary to write inches in the documentation. It is calculated by dividing by 2 the distance between the three rivets. It is from this characteristic that it is customary to divide canvases into several main groups:

1. step in 0.25" (6.35mm) used in devices with minimum power, which are suitable exclusively for dacha works. Dimensional logs with such a step cannot be cut. Chainsaw chains with this pitch are not very common.
2. The next two groups, where the step in 0.325 and 0.375 inches (8.25 and 9.3 mm respectively) are the most common of all, as approximately 70% of all chainsaws that are produced in the world are included in these groups. Accordingly, they can be used for most existing household tasks. But there is one little trick! Since it is quite easy to confuse the numbers 0.325 and 0.375, chains with a step of 0.375 are marked 3/8, that is, 3/8 inches.
3. The last group with a step in 0.404 and 0.75 in. (10.26 and 19.05 mm) used for the most difficult tasks. In this case, we are talking about a logging tool rather than a saw for domestic use. That is, you can meet chains with such a pitch only on professional chainsaws.

There is a direct relationship between step size and tool performance, but you also need to consider that a large step implies a more powerful motor. The cutting quality of devices with a large pitch is still inferior to devices from the first three categories, since the teeth are located more densely there. For a power of 2.5 liters, a step of 0.325 mm is suitable, and it is better to put on a more productive chainsaw saw blade and a 3/8 mm chain, as this will help to unlock the full potential of the saw.

Drive link thickness

In this case, the division into several main categories according to this parameter is also used. We are talking about thickness values ​​such as 1.1; 1.3; 1.5; 1.6; 2 mm (0.043'', 0.050'', 0.058'', 0.063'', 0.080''). This characteristic, measured in inches, affects how smoothly the cutting blade will move during saw operation.

• Chains with a pitch of 1.1 mm are used on low-power household chainsaws, as well as on chainsaws designed for (carving).
• Chains with a pitch of 1.3 mm are more common. For example, the famous chainsaw is equipped with chains with just such a pitch. And yes, this is the most common move.
• A pitch of 1.5 and 1.6 mm have chains that are intended for professional and "semi-professional" (farm) chainsaws.
• 2 mm - this step is found exclusively on chains installed on very productive and powerful chainsaws in the professional segment.

Low profile and high profile chains

What you need to know about the height of the chain profile? It determines what will be the depth of cut of the saw. Based on this parameter, the saw can be either low or high profile, respectively, in the first case, the chips will be removed thinner, but the work will be somewhat slower, while in the second case, the depth and productivity will be greater. For a low profile tool, a setting of 0.635 mm is used, and for a high profile tool, 0.762 mm. If we consider devices for domestic use, then they are always low-profile, while professional equipment can be produced in two versions. At the same time, in order to stabilize the vibration that inevitably occurs during operation, manufacturers make a balance between the height of the profile and the number of steps. For a small step, make a high profile, and vice versa. Failure to follow this rule will lead to the fact that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw for a long time, although the wood will be cut very quickly. This balance must be observed if there is an intention to sharpen at home, in all other situations it remains only to choose a saw for home or for professional cutting.

Main types of links

If we consider the most common types of links, then this chisel links that are most often found on professional equipment, and chipper that are supplied to simple chainsaws. The first option in the section is a bit like the number 7, and this design allows you to work with the saw as quickly as possible, since the link digs into the material evenly. Cutting is more accurate, but it is extremely difficult to sharpen such links at home, since the slightest deviation from the permissible angle eliminates all the advantages of this design. In the case of a chipper, there is no need to maintain strict angles, and such a link is not so much afraid of contamination, although there is a higher load on the tool. For home use, the second option is more suitable, especially if there are no skills in sharpening the saw. As for the material, chromium-nickel steel is mainly used, although if there is a special need, if it is necessary to work with a particularly strong material, carbide tips can be put on the teeth, as evidenced by the markings on them.

Chains for ripping and cross cutting

The name of the chains corresponds to the direction in which the fibers are cut. To work across the sharp angle of sharpening the link is not needed, since the resistance of the wood is not as great as when working in the longitudinal direction. Each type of wood involves the choice of one direction or another, and if we are talking about professional work with a tree that also involves longitudinal cutting, then it will take up to 5-15 degrees to sharpen the teeth, while 25-35 degrees is enough for working at home. The demand for longitudinal chains is minimal, since for longitudinal work it is more reasonable to use circular saw. It happens that it is quite difficult to find a model that works along, even in a specialized store. For work at home, it does not make sense to look for such a saw, since all household tasks of the device for cross cutting will be performed without difficulty.

How to determine the chain for ripping or crosscutting?

• For cross cutting, the chain sharpening angle is 30 degrees.
• For longitudinal sawing, the saw chain sharpening angle is 10 degrees.

Stihl's ripping chain is PMX. For example, STIHL 63 PMX 50.

Oregon will have the letter R in the chain model index. Example: 73RD100R

Is the sequence of cutting links important?

In the usual version, when the saw is manufactured at the factory, it is customary to put two drive links on one cutting link, thereby making 50% of the total cutting teeth. Then the productivity of the equipment remains at the level, and the quality of the cut is not lame, but in order to reduce the cost of the chain, the cutting links can be set not every step, but after one or even two steps, which will bring the total number of cutting links to 37.5%. The chainsaw will become cheaper, but the cutting quality will deteriorate greatly, so it is better not to pay attention to such devices.

Carbide chains

Such chains cost an order of magnitude more expensive, and they have a special purpose - working with frozen wood or with contaminated material. In all other situations, the money will be spent in vain, since there is no point in carbide soldering for plain wood.

Main chain manufacturers

Almost any online store or specialized salon offers chainsaw accessories, including chains, from Husqvarna (Sweden), Oregon (Canada), and Stihl (Germany). Each of the manufacturers has its own advantages over its competitors, but the quality of products manufactured by these companies is at about the same level.

Chainsaw chain video

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Sharpening a chainsaw chain is easy. True, subject to the use of special tools. Without them, it is impossible to cope with the task: the saw chain has a very complex geometry.

The chainsaw chain is sharpened for longitudinal sawing as necessary. The more intensively the saw is used, the faster its chain becomes dull. In some cases, during the day you need to perform several sharpening. The fastest tire loses its sharpness when in contact with the soil. It is enough to hook the ground with it several times, as the chips become small, and the tool refuses to go deep into the wood.

Timely sharpening of the chainsaw chain for longitudinal sawing not only speeds up work, but also extends the life of the chain. Determining the moment when it needs to be sharpened is easy. Dull teeth are indicated by the need to increase the feed force during sawing. A dull chain can also be recognized by small chips - ideally, large thick chips should fly out from under the bar.

The nuances of sharpening

If you decide to buy a chainsaw, you will not regret it - they sell high-quality devices that can last for many years. The main thing - do not forget to sharpen the saw chain in time.

To obtain ideal cutting properties, certain angles are attached to the blades of the teeth. The back of the tooth, falling back, forms the angle of the blade (rear). It is necessary for cutting the chain into wood. The blade, tapering back, is needed to cut the chips in the assembly. In other words, each corner plays its role.

The angle of sharpening the chain can be changed, starting from the features of its application. For example, for longitudinal sawing, it should be 10 degrees.

General sharpening rules

The internal contours of the chainsaw chain are shaped like a circle. A small round file is used to sharpen them. It must be held with a confident hand and at a certain angle. The upper edge of the file in relation to the edge of the tooth should protrude by about 20% of the tool diameter. When choosing the diameter of the file, you need to start from the chain pitch.

One file is not enough for you. When sharpening the chain, use a special kit sold with a chainsaw or purchased separately. Sets of this kind consist of a hook for cleaning the chain from chips, a round file and a flat file used when filing the depth gauge.