Fire Safety Encyclopedia

How to connect 2 wires of different sizes. How to properly connect wires made of different metals. Spring clamps for connecting wires

Knowledge modern technologies and methods of working with electrical fittings, is it really necessary? Yes, how to connect correctly electric wires you need to know.

This can be useful when installing, laying any power supply systems. Is the wiring burned out, needs replacement lighting fixture or a complete set of new equipment. Such knowledge may not be needed, but it will be better to know all common connection methods. electrical wires

Application in terminal block circuits

Terminal blocks are electrical products made of non-electrically conductive material, inside of which a conductive bushing is inserted, which has a pair of screws at opposite ends. They serve to fix the wire. Great choice to implement modern way wire connections.

When choosing a reliable connection of wires, it is important to remember: terminal blocks are produced with different holes, for many sections.

This method is almost always used for connection in junction boxes of any type, during installation, installation of wall and other luminaires. It is suitable for. It is easy to mount the network using such fittings, you just need to insert the bare ends into the holes and, using moderate force, tighten the screws securely. The wire itself must not be pinched. Having disassembled how to properly connect electrical wires using terminals, it is worth studying other equally reliable methods.


Terminal method evaluation: Excellent fastening quality. The price for them is acceptable. Quite quick and easy installation. Good ability to connect different conductors such as aluminum and copper.

It is not recommended to use pads to connect aluminum and stranded chains. This is due to the high fragility of aluminum wires and the great flexibility of the conductors themselves. stranded wire... But overall a decent method.

Spring terminals

Quick installation of power grids is sometimes simply necessary. For example, to carry out temporary lighting on the balcony, terrace, gazebo. Spring terminals wago, an excellent product for this kind of work. Modern and of course reliable way wire connections. Although they are new to the market for electrical fittings, installation using spring terminals is quick and, importantly, convenient.


The main difference between the use of the terminal blocks of the car itself: it is more convenient to connect any wires in electrical boxes with them than by twisting. Here for high-quality installation a unique clamping mechanism is used, not a simple screw. Manufacturers produce both disposable and reusable wagon systems.

  1. In the usual design, this product is used for single use, when repair work it cannot be restored later. It is removed, and a new one is put in its place.
  2. Reusable wago terminals are a little more expensive, but they can be used to disconnect the assembled contacts several times, rewiring the circuit to suit your needs. This speeds up the process of repairing or mounting permanent and temporary networks. A simple lever-type mechanism gives the advantage that it is possible to carefully but accurately fix any wire without damaging or crushing.

With the help of the wago, it is easy to carry out the fastening yourself, you need to strip the insulation and insert required cores into the mounting hole. Clamp with a lever. It is important to be correct.

Assessment of the wago clamping system: A unique ability to combine any, aluminum, copper and other conductors. There is an option for connecting multicore cables at the same time (two or more).

The wago universal clamps allow you to fix any thin stranded conductor without damaging it. Another plus, the compact size of the pads.


Wago self-clamping terminals

Excellent quality and durability. The Vago-type block has a technological hole giving access for a screwdriver with a voltage indicator. The operation of any power line can be checked at any time. Perhaps one drawback is the considerable cost of the terminals themselves. But this type of wire connection is the most modern and fastest.

Insulation with PPE caps

Decoding the product is not difficult, connecting insulating clamps (PPE). They are ordinary nylon or plastic caps with an internal retainer.


The simplest type of wire connection, it is carried out after twisting the conductors themselves, cores. Caps are often used to connect wires in junction boxes, to mark the connections with the desired color.

Evaluation of the use of such products: Fairly low cost of PPE. The use of a safe material eliminates the ignition of electrical wiring. Easy installation, put it on a twist of wires and you're done. These caps have a large color range which is convenient. Of course, if the wires are not color-coded, colored PPEs have the ability to determine or simply mark zero, phase and other necessary electrical network routes.

There are also disadvantages: Insufficient level of fixation. The stranded type of wires can be mounted only after soldering.

Installation of networks using sleeves

This option claims to be the most reliable connection method. Any in terms of loads and quality of wires.


Crimping of wires with sleeves

Conductive conductors inserted into a special tube - a sleeve, and squeezed with a certain effort. There is one thing, but. The cross-section of the wires should not exceed the cross-section of the sleeves to be mounted. After inserting and crimping the cage, the sleeve is carefully insulated with a heat-shrinkable tube, or with the help of other insulating materials.

Overall assessment. A great way to securely connect wires. The direction of the conductors can be from different sides of the tube or from one side. The liners are quite inexpensive. Good way how to reliably connect the wires to each other.

There are also disadvantages. One-time use of sleeves, they are not collapsible. To carry out such work, you will need a tool: pressing pliers, which are also used as a special tool. They are used to remove insulation. They have a crimping device in their arsenal, and electric installation work take a little longer.

Soldering or welding wires

This method is reliable. Usually, this method of connection in a junction box involves first stripping and twisting the ends, after which they are dipped in heated solder. It is advisable to solder the connection of wires aluminum to aluminum. Then they are insulated with a thermal tube or electrical tape.


Soldering method evaluation. It gives strong chain contacts and excellent quality, not expensive, it is the most reliable with a way of connecting electrical wires in a soldered box.

Technological disadvantage. A soldering iron is indispensable here. The speed of work is not high. The connection is naturally not detachable. From this it follows that soldering is done in extreme cases, using more modern methods connections. It has not been popular among craftsmen for a long time, since it takes more time.

There is also an uncommon method of connecting electrical wires by welding. The process is similar, but requires the use of a special welding machine, of course, and certain skills.

Pin twisting method

Not a new, one might say "old-fashioned" method, it consists of a spiral twisting of veins together. The essence of all work is to twist the stripped conductors with pliers, and cover the twist with insulation. Here, perhaps, are all the ways to twist wires.


Evaluation of this connection method. High speed of all installation works... The cost part is minimal.

Flaw. It is forbidden to connect together twists of different composition, copper and aluminum wires, oxidation is inevitable. According to regulatory framework binding wires with twists in a junction box, not recommended for use in rooms with flammable materials, high humidity, basements, as well as in any house built of wood. More details about the twisting method. I definitely recommend watching a video about what is better for twisting or Vago terminal blocks.

Clamping device for wires "nut"

Such a device is simply a cable clamp with two plates inside and several screws for tightening, usually at the corners. It is enough to screw the wires to the plate itself. Then put on a carbolite shell on top.


Grade. A great option for connecting any electrical wires in a junction box, large to medium size. Definitely, these types of products are quite convenient and have a high degree of protection. It makes it possible to quickly connect a wire to a track with a thick cross-section without breaking it.

CONNECT

CONNECT

1. whom (what). Compose from many (many) one whole, combine, merge together. S. your strength. C. effort. S. squads.

2. what. Fasten one to the other. C. wires.

4. who (what) with whom (what). Establish a message, a connection between someone. S. two cities by freeway. S. someone. with someone by phone.


Ozhegov's Explanatory Dictionary. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949-1992 .


See what "CONNECT" is in other dictionaries:

    CONNECT, connect, connect, perfect. (to join). 1. who what. Compose something from one whole, combine, collecting. "It was not fate that united us." Baratynsky. Connect the troops. Join forces. 2. what. Fasten one with the other, tie ... ... Ushakov's Explanatory Dictionary

    Unite, tie, unite, solder; combine, combine. Ant. dissociate the Dictionary of Russian synonyms. connect 1. connect, bridge, articulate; match (book) 2. combine, combine 3. see unite ... Synonym dictionary

    connect- tightly connect tightly connect ... Dictionary of Russian Idioms

    Sov. crossover see connect Efremova's Explanatory Dictionary. T.F. Efremova. 2000 ... Modern explanatory dictionary of the Russian language by Efremova

    Connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, connect, ... ... Forms of words

    Glb., Sv., Uptr. cf. often Morphology: I will connect, you will connect, he / she / it will connect, we will connect, you will connect, they will connect, connected, connected, connected, connected, connected, connected, connected see nsv. connect ... Dmitriev's Explanatory Dictionary

    connect- connect, nyu, nit ... Russian spelling dictionary

    connect- (II), connect / (sy), ni / w (sy), nya / t (sy) ... Spelling dictionary of the Russian language

    connect- 1. Syn: combine, tie, rally (ampl.), Solder (publ., Ampl.) Ant: uncouple 2. Syn: combine, combine ... Thesaurus of Russian business vocabulary

    Nyu, nish; connected; nyon, nena, neno; St. 1. who what. Make up from whom, what l. one whole, make one; combine. C. two plots of land in one. C. strength, effort. C. Allied armies. Love for music united these people at the concert. // ... ... encyclopedic Dictionary

Books

  • Simple correct life or How to combine joy, meaning and efficiency, Kozlov N .. Everything that we are sure of seems simple to us. Before you is a bright palette of possibilities - draw your own life the way you want to see it. A right life is a life made by your own ...
  • Simple Right Life, or How to Combine Joy, Meaning and Efficiency, Nikolay Kozlov. Everything we are sure of seems simple to us. Before you is a bright palette of possibilities - draw your own life the way you want to see it. A right life is a life made by your own ...

It often happens that in junction box wires of different cross-sections come and they must be connected. It seems that everything should be simple, as well as with the connection of wires of the same cross-section, but there are some peculiarities here. Connect cables different thickness can be done in several ways.

Remember that you cannot connect two wires of different cross-sections in an outlet for one contact, since the thin one will not be strongly pressed by the bolt. This will lead to poor contact, high contact resistance, overheating and melting of the cable insulation.

How to connect wires of different sizes?

1.By twisting with soldering or welding

This is the most common way. You can twist wires of adjacent cross-sections, for example 4 mm 2 and 2.5 mm 2. Now, if the diameters of the wires are very different, then good twisting will no longer work. During twisting, you need to make sure that both veins twine around each other. A thin wire should not be allowed to twist on a thick one. This can lead to poor electrical contact. Do not forget about further soldering or welding. Only then will your connection work for many years without any complaints.

2.Using screw clamps ZVI

I already wrote about them in detail in the article: Ways to connect wires. Such terminal blocks allow you to start a wire of one section on one side, and on the other side of a different section. Here, each core is clamped with a separate screw. Below is a table according to which you can choose the right screw terminal for your wires.

Type of screw clamp Permissible continuous current, A
ZVI-3 1 - 2,5 3
ZVI-5 1,5 - 4 5
ZVI-10 2,5 - 6 10
ZVI-15 4 - 10 15
ZVI-20 4 - 10 20
ZVI-30 6 - 16 30
ZVI-60 6 - 16 60
ZVI-80 10 - 25 80
ZVI-100 10 - 25 100
ZVI-150 16 - 35 150

As you can see, with the help of ZVI, you can connect wires of neighboring cross-sections. Also remember to look at their current load. The last digit in the type of screw terminal indicates the amount of permissible continuous current that can flow through this terminal.

We clean the cores to the middle of the terminal ...

We insert them and tighten the screws ...

3.Using Wago universal self-clamping terminals.

Wago terminal blocks have the ability to connect wires of different cross-sections. They have special nests where each core is "stuck". For example, you can connect a wire of 1.5 mm 2 to one hole of the clamp, and 4 mm 2 to the other, and everything will work properly.

According to the manufacturer's markings, terminals of different series can be used to connect wires of different cross-sections. See the table below:

Wago Terminal Series Cross-section of the connected conductors, mm 2 Permissible continuous current, A
243 0.6 to 0.8 6
222 0,8 - 4,0 32
773-3 0.75 to 2.5 mm 2 24
273 1.5 to 4.0 24
773-173 2.5 to 6.0 mm 2 32

Here's an example with the 222 series ...

4. Using a bolted connection.

The bolted connection of the wires is compound connection consisting of 2 or more wires, a bolt, a nut and several washers. It is considered reliable and durable.

Here it goes like this:

  1. we clean the vein by 2-3 centimeters, so that it is enough for one full turn around the bolt;
  2. we make a ring from a core according to the diameter of the bolt;
  3. take a bolt and put it on a washer;
  4. we put a ring from a conductor of the same section on the bolt;
  5. then we put on the intermediate washer;
  6. we put on a ring from a conductor of a different section;
  7. put the last washer and tighten the whole thing with a nut.

In this way, several conductors of different cross-sections can be connected at the same time. Their number is limited by the length of the bolt.

5. With the clamping branch "nut".

I wrote about this connection in detail with photos and the corresponding comments in the article: Connecting wires using "nut" type clamps. Let me not repeat myself here.

6. Using tinned copper lugs through the bolt and nut.

This method is well suited for connecting large cable sizes. For this connection, it is necessary to have not only TML tips, but also crimping pliers or a hydraulic press. This connection will be a little cumbersome (long), it may not fit into some small junction box, but it still has the right to life.

It's easy to connect here. A tip is put on each core, they are crimped and connected with a bolt with a nut and washers. This place is then insulated with insulating tape or heat-shrinkable tubing (it must be put on the wire before connecting).

Unfortunately, I didn't have a thick wire and the necessary terminals at hand, so I made a photo from what was. I think you can still understand the essence of the connection from it.

It seems to have listed everything. If you know other ways to connect wires of different cross-sections, then write in the comments.

Let's smile:

There are two sitting in the cell:
- What are you sitting for?
- For murder.
- How much did you give?
- 7 years. What are you for?
- For poaching.
- How many?
- Fifteen.
- Who are you hunting ?!
“I’m walking, so I’m hunting, I see a telegraph pole, an eagle is sitting on the pole. Well, I'm a doublet ...
- And what ?! For an eagle for 15 years? Did you even kill him?
- Yeah ... shot, claws in one direction, pliers in the other.
  • Tutorial

Well, really, stop it. There are a bunch cool stuff for connecting a wide variety of wires, but still the technology "bite off the insulation with your teeth, twist, wrap with electrical tape" is still alive.

About normal wiring

When I see this, I feel uncomfortable:


And when I see this, I want to kill the author:


The fact is that it is by no means possible to twist copper and aluminum wires.
There are several reasons for this. The main one is the problem of oxidation of an aluminum wire in contact with copper - a galvanic pair is formed, which slowly but surely destroys the connection. And the faster, the higher the current goes through this twist.
Of course, after a couple of hours, such a connection will not fall apart, even if you turn on a heater or kettle through it. But over time, the resistance will slowly increase, which will cause the twist to heat up more and more. And if the load is not constant, but episodic, then constant heating-cooling cycles will further degrade the conductivity. Various materials when heated, they expand in different ways, and turning on and off the load through such a twist will be tantamount to constantly pulling it back and forth. You yourself understand that this will not lead to anything good.
Well, if it's just heating, it can usually be traced by the characteristic smell of burnt insulation. But the arcing of the connection, especially near wallpaper or something flammable, can easily turn into a fire.
What solutions are there to solve this problem?
Polyethylene terminal blocks
Here's a thing:


Sold in any hardware store, it costs a penny.
Inside is a brass sleeve with two screws:


We push the wires into it, clamp them with screws:
<

I pulled it out on purpose for clarity. Together with the insulation, it will look like this:


Each segment can be cut off. It would seem ideal. But there is a nuance (s)
Although these nuances and disadvantages are a wagon and a small cart, do not get fooled by simplicity.


In general, it is advisable not to use such terminal blocks. If you use it, then only with single-core wires and for connecting something small - a light bulb, a fan (not industrial). And no aluminum!
It is also advisable to buy not noname china, but terminal blocks of normal manufacturers: Tridonik, ABB, Legrand, Verit

Cost: from 10 to 50 rubles.
Terminal Blocks TB Series


Hard black plastic pads. Better now.
Have a removable cover:


And here is the internal structure:


We unscrew, put the wire in, clamp it.


Pros - it is not a screw that clamps, but a metal plate. Press it against the bottom steel plate. In addition, the upper part is not flat, but with a characteristic surface that increases the pressure surface:

.
This makes it possible to clamp stranded and aluminum wires. Aluminum, however, it is advisable at least sometimes to check for weakening of the clamp. I saw the pads themselves for currents of 25A and 40A.
Inconvenience - it is not cut or divided, or buy a bunch of small ones (I have not seen less than 6 pieces), or even put one large one on two wires.
Cost: from 30 to 80 rubles.
Self-clamping terminals (WAGO or REXANT 773 series and their copies)
Or they are also called express terminals. Like these ones:


Very handy stuff. I cleaned the wire, put it inside to the end, ready:
<

Inside there is a pressure plate (blue arrow) and a small bar (orange) made of tinned copper:


When wires are pushed into it, this is what happens:


The plate presses the wire against the bar, maintaining pressure all the time. And the design of the pressing part does not allow the wire to fall out. It is difficult to pull it out. In general, they are disposable, but if you really want to, you can pull it out by gently rotating the wire around its axis.


Since the copper contact is tinned, an aluminum wire can be inserted into such a terminal without fear of problems. At the same time, constant pressure will prevent the aluminum wire from falling out.
White paste (in the next photo you can see the white mass on the contact) is quartz sand with technical vaseline, especially for aluminum wires. Quartz sand is an abrasive that cleans off the oxide film from the surface of aluminum, and petroleum jelly prevents it from re-forming.


The same terminals, but transparent:


They do not differ in anything except the dye. Well, in transparent terminals it is more convenient to see the wire - whether it will be shoved to the end or not.
Plastic is non-combustible, melts when the temperature rises, without emitting harmful substances into the air.
Designed for 25 A, which is approximately 4 kW. Attention! Currents are indicated only for original WAGO terminals.
Rexant terminals (manufacturer - SDS groups) use another spring steel, which relaxes when heated. Accordingly, the maximum current is limited, except in lighting it is not recommended to use it.

Here is a test in which they held 50A and did not even melt. Well, this is in ideal conditions - in the air, the cooling was good. And the terminals are original, yes.
Cost: from 2 to 6 rubles, depending on the number of contacts

WAGO 222 Series Lever Lever Terminals. I saw only Vagovskie, others do not produce.
For particularly difficult cases, when there are several types of wires, different thicknesses, aluminum, copper, etc.


Raise the lever:


We push the wires, lower the lever:


If necessary, you can raise the lever, pull out the wire, insert another. And so many, many times. Great for those circuits that can be re-routed a bunch of times.
They eat everything. Current - up to 32A. Inside there is a plate that presses against the common bus connected to the lever.


A tricky design, in general.


Shank - tinned copper, as usual:


Cost: from 5 to 15 rubles.
Scotch locks, ScotchLok, cut-in electrical connector.
This is for low current (network, telephones, LED lights, etc.).


The meaning is simple - several wires are crammed into such a thing:


After that, it snaps into place with pliers or any pressing tool. No, there is of course a special tool, but I do not see the point in it - it is a small pliers with flat jaws.
They are especially loved by installers of SCS and networks, for their simplicity, cheapness, water resistance, and the lack of the need to remove insulation.


Inside - a hydrophobic gel that protects against corrosion, moisture, oxidation, etc. And plate with cutting-clamping surface:


Or two plates:


Here you can see what happens to the cable after termination:


The knives cut through the insulation and press firmly against the wire. There is also a version for two cables at once, and the plates are slightly thicker - it is quite suitable for lighting:


Of course, they are disposable and maintenance-free. It is necessary to replace - a piece of cable with them is bite off, and a new one is put in.
Cost: from 1 to 4 rubles per piece.
For high currents
For such cases, there are sleeves:


Above - sleeve-connector for aluminum and copper cables, below - universal tin-plated copper:


A wire (or several) is pushed inside, the sleeve is crimped with a special tool. Unfortunately, some wicked person pushed my pincers down, so I won't show them. I found a picture in Google:


And this is how the crimped sleeve looks like:


A huge plus is that with the right size and crimping, the resistance does not decrease compared to a conventional wire. And unattended, which is sometimes important. This means that it can be walled up (after normal insulation, of course) into a wall, buried in the ground (taking care of waterproofing), etc.
Sleeves with a flat end and a hole are mainly used for grounding, when the wire must be connected to the body:

In the article, we will talk about how to connect wires in junction boxes, talk about preparing conductors for connecting household appliances and installation products.

The electrical wiring of residential premises consists of many elements, these are various current-carrying conductors (cables), protective devices, wiring accessories, and individual current consumers. In order to assemble all the components of the system into a single circuit and at the same time make the power supply functional and safe, it is necessary to connect them to each other with high quality, or, as they say, to connect them (switching refers to the processes that occur when electrical circuits are closed or opened).

At first glance, it may seem to an untrained person that nothing complicated should be here. But, working with an electrician "on a whim", it doesn't matter whether we transfer a single outlet, connect a lamp or assemble a complex control system, we are at serious risk. Experienced electricians know that wiring is primarily a "fight for contact", since it is an open circuit, and not a short circuit, that is the most common problem that one has to face. Obviously, the places of connections in the circuit (terminals, twists) are the most vulnerable, since at these points the mechanical contact density can weaken (the contact area decreases), an oxide film with a very high resistance forms on the conductors over time. Poor contact becomes the reason for the heating of current-carrying conductors, sparking at the points of switching is the consequence of the appearance of a transient contact resistance. Complete burnout of the wire and de-energizing the site when household appliances do not work, or the light goes out, this is unpleasant, but the problem is solved. Worse, if the insulation of the wires heats up and collapses, which threatens a person with electric shock or a fire.

Recently, the load on the wiring has seriously increased, therefore, even more stringent fire and electrical safety requirements are now imposed on switching. However, if earlier there were not many connection options, now there are reliable modern devices that facilitate wiring switching. In addition to welding and soldering followed by tape insulation of the twist, PPE caps, various terminal screw and spring blocks, all kinds of insulated and open lugs, branch clamps can be used in the household network. These products will help you to qualitatively connect wires in junction boxes, assemble a switchboard, connect household appliances and lighting devices, sockets and switches.

There are several key objective factors influencing the choice of the switching method, or the use of specific devices. Let's just list the main ones:

  • power and number of consumers (read: total cross-section of conductors);
  • material of current-carrying conductors (copper or aluminum);
  • type of cables (flat or round, rigid or soft stranded, single or double insulation);
  • the purpose of the node (group or single branch, end connection);
  • the presence of mobility of wires or vibrations near them;
  • high temperature, humidity;
  • indoor or outdoor use.

Connection of wires in junction boxes

According to the provisions of the PUE, the branching of the wires of the household network can only be made in the distribution (soldering) box. Junction boxes allow, during the operation of the wiring, to quickly reach the ends of any individual branch, if necessary, find out which of them is broken or has a short circuit. You can also always inspect the condition of the contacts inside the box, perform their maintenance. Modern PVC boxes are used for open and hidden wiring, they have sufficient reliability and extended functionality: they are easily installed on various surfaces, convenient for electrical installation manipulations.

In order to always have access to the connected wires, all junction boxes are located on free sections of the walls; it is most rational to install them from the side of the corridors, for example, above the door of a powered room. Naturally, the boxes cannot be tightly plastered, or sewn up inside building frames, the permissible decorative maximum is a thin-layer finish on top of the lid (paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster).

For arranging lighting and power circuits (outputs and sockets), it is recommended to use separate junction boxes for each room. Such a split power supply makes it possible to make the electrical wiring of the home more balanced and safe, since "light" and "sockets" differ in workloads and operating conditions, and different requirements are imposed on them. Moreover, it is much easier to upgrade or repair the wiring later, and not always all the wires in a room can be normally marked in one case.

The commutation of wires in any junction box can be carried out according to the same principle. In most cases, "twisting" is initially used, but simply wrapping conductors with electrical tape is not enough - it must be reinforced with additional operations that are designed to increase the contact area of ​​the connected current-carrying conductors and reduce the oxidation of materials. Clause 2.1.21 of the PUE offers the following options:

  • soldering
  • welding
  • crimping
  • crimping (bolts, screws, etc.)

Crimping of wires

The essence of this method is that the twisted wires are inserted into a special sleeve made of metal, which is compressed with hand pliers, a mechanical or hydraulic press. Crimping can be done either by local indentation or by continuous crimping. This wire connection is considered one of the most reliable. Crimping allows the conductors to be compressed very tightly, increasing the contact area, the mechanical strength of such a commutation is the highest. This method is used for both copper and aluminum wires.

The crimping process consists of several operations, each of which has its own nuances:

  1. The wires are freed from insulation by 20-40 mm from the edge, depending on the working length of the sleeve.
  2. The veins are cleaned with a brush or emery to a shine.
  3. With the help of pliers, a tight twist is made.
  4. According to the total cross-section of the twist, a GAO sleeve with the required inner diameter is selected, as well as a suitable punch and matrix.
  5. The liner is processed from the inside with quartz-vaseline paste (if it comes from the factory "dry").
  6. The twist is inserted into the sleeve.
  7. The stranding is compressed with press tongs. It is necessary that the tooling of the tool is completely closed.
  8. The quality of the connection is checked - the wires should not move in the tip.
  9. The sleeve of the connected conductors is wrapped with electrical tape in three layers, with a tip thickness of up to 9 mm, a polyethylene insulating cap can be used.

Crimping conductors

Crimping conductors can be done using terminal blocks, PPE caps or WAGO clamps.

The terminal block housing is made of plastic, inside it there are sockets with threads and clamping screws. The wires can be wound under single terminal screws towards each other, or one conductor goes through the entire block and is fixed with two screws. Some junction boxes are assembled with standard strips.

A clear advantage of switching on the terminal block is the ability to connect copper and aluminum wires, which in this case do not have direct contact. A disadvantage is the need to tighten the bolt clamp if aluminum conductors are used.

PPE caps (connecting insulating clamps) are also made of durable non-combustible polymer, which, being an insulator, provides mechanical and fire protection. They are wound with effort on the twisting of the conductors, then the conical metal spring inside the cap expands and compresses the current-carrying conductors. As a rule, the inside of the PPE is treated with a paste that prevents oxidation.

WAGO clamps for junction boxes are screwless, here the compression is performed by a spring, you just need to insert the stripped wire into the terminal. These terminal blocks are designed to connect up to eight wires with a cross section of 1-2.5 mm 2 or three wires with a cross section of 2.5 to 6 mm 2, while the spring acts on the conductor with a force suitable for each wire. The clamps function normally at operating currents up to 41 A for 6 squares, 32 A for 4 squares and 25 A for 2.5 squares. Interestingly, WAGO universal clamps allow you to connect wires of different cross-sections (from 0.75 to 4 mm 2) in one housing.

These devices can be designed for a rigid conductor, or for a soft stranded conductor. Due to the fact that there is no direct contact of the wires to be connected, copper and aluminum wires can be switched, while there is no need to regularly revise the aluminum compression. Inside, WAGO terminal blocks also have a paste that destroys the oxide film and improves contact, however, the clamps for copper conductors are not filled with contact paste. It is very easy to work with such connecting products, they are quickly installed, without the use of additional tools, they are compact and reliable. It must be said that WAGO is not the only company that produces screwless spring-loaded terminal blocks.

Whatever type of crimping device is used, it is necessary to accurately select it according to the section of a separate conductor or twisted, since a terminal that is too large may not provide normal contact. In this case, you can not always trust the marking - it is better to check the conformity of the fasteners and conductors on the spot. We recommend having an assortment of crimp terminals by standard size during installation. Please note that contact gel must be used to work with aluminum; copper and aluminum conductors cannot be connected in one twist. After crimping, it is always necessary to check the tightness of the fixation of the cores in the terminal.

Soldering wires

Due to the technological complexity, this connection method is used quite rarely, mainly when, for some reason, it is impossible to use pressure testing, crimping or welding. You can solder wires made of aluminum and copper, you just need to choose the right solder. An ordinary soldering iron is suitable for branching wires with a cross section of up to 6-10 mm 2, but more massive wires will have to be heated with a portable gas torch (propane + oxygen). For soldering, it is necessary to use a flux in the form of rosin or its alcohol solution.

The advantages of soldering are considered to be the high reliability of the connection, compared to crimping (in particular, we have an increased contact area). Also, this method is quite inexpensive. The disadvantages of switching building wires by soldering include the duration of the work, the technical complexity of the process.

Soldering the conductors is as follows:

  • wires are stripped of insulation;
  • veins are sanded with emery to a metallic sheen;
  • twisting is done with a length of 50-70 mm;
  • the core heats up with a burner flame or a soldering iron;
  • the metal is covered with flux;
  • solder is introduced into the working area or a hot twist is immersed in a bath with molten solder for 1-2 seconds;
  • after cooling, the brazed twist is insulated with electrical tape or polymer caps-tips.

Welding

Most often, electricians use contact heating to reliably switch wires in a junction box. You can weld twisting with a total cross-section of up to 25 mm 2. Under the action of an electric arc at the end of the twist, the metal of several strands is fused into a single drop, and then the current during the operation of the electric circuit flows not even through the body of the twist, but through the formed monolith. If everything is done correctly, then the connection turns out to be no less reliable than a solid wire. This method has no technological and operational drawbacks, the only thing is that it is necessary to purchase a suitable welding machine.

Welding of copper conductors is carried out with direct or alternating current with a voltage of 12 to 36 V. If we talk about factory welding units, it is better to use inverter devices with sensitive adjustment of the welding current, which are light in weight and dimensions (during operation, they are sometimes worn on the shoulder) , can be powered from a household network. In addition, inverters provide good arc stability at low welding currents. Due to the high cost of inverters, very often electricians use home-made welding machines made from a transformer with a power of more than 500 W, with a secondary voltage of 12-36 volts. The earth and the electrode holder are connected to the secondary winding. The electrode itself for welding copper conductors must be infusible - carbon, it is a factory copper-plated "pencil" or a homemade element made of a similar material.

If a factory inverter is used for welding wires, then it is recommended to set the following operating current indicators for conductors of different cross-sections: 70-90 amperes is suitable for connecting two or three wires with a cross section of 1.5 squares, wires with a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 are welded at 80-120 amperes. These indicators are approximate, since the exact composition of the core can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer - it is recommended to test the device and a certain current strength on wire cuttings. Correctly selected indicators are when the arc is stable, and the electrode on the twist does not stick.

The wire welding process includes the following operations:

  • the conductors are cleaned of insulation (about 40-50 mm);
  • a tight twist is made with pliers, its end is cut so that the ends of the wires have the same length;
  • a mass clamp is connected to the twist;
  • the carbon electrode is brought to the end of the twist for 1-2 seconds (so that the insulation does not melt, but a solid copper ball forms;
  • after cooling, the welded twist is insulated with electrical tape, heat shrink tubing or a plastic tip.

When connecting wires, you should observe safety precautions and take fire-fighting measures, as for any welding work. It is recommended to use a welding mask or special glasses with a light filter; welding leggings or gloves will not be superfluous.

Connecting wires to terminals of electrical equipment

Connecting household appliances and various wiring products is also an important step in wiring. The operability of consumers, as well as the protection of users and fire safety, depend on the reliability of electrical connections in these nodes.

The technology for connecting current-carrying conductors to equipment is regulated by the PUE, current SNiPs, as well as "Instructions for the termination, connection and branching of aluminum and copper conductors of insulated wires and cables and their connection to the contact terminals of electrical devices." As well as branching conductors in junction boxes, soldering, welding, crimping, screw or spring crimping are used for termination and connection. One way or another is chosen primarily depending on the design of the equipment, as well as on the properties of the current-carrying conductor.

Screw crimping is used in most types of modern equipment. There are screw terminals in sockets and switches, chandeliers and lamps, in various household appliances (built-in fan, air conditioner, hob). The elements of the switchboard are supplied with crimp sockets: circuit breakers, RCDs, an electric meter; here, switching buses with screw terminals are used.

It should be noted that the convenient spring-loaded terminal blocks can also be used to connect equipment. For example, switches are often equipped with screwless terminals, the WAGO company produces a special series of clamps for connecting chandeliers and lamps, as well as for switching in ASU (terminals installed on a DIN rail).

Please note that for crimp connection, soft stranded conductors must be terminated with insulated ferrules (connectors). Connectors are not needed for rigid monolithic conductors. If you do not use ferrules, then the soft core should be twisted tightly and irradiated with solder before connecting. The size of the tip is selected depending on the cross-section of the conductor, and the geometry of the contact part - depending on the type of terminal on the connected device and the features of operation. For example, for a clamping tunnel socket, a connector in the form of a pin is used, for fixing with a nut on a bolt - a ring or fork. In turn, the forked tip is not recommended for use if the device is movable or vibration is possible in the switching zone.

If it is necessary to clamp a rigid single-wire conductor (copper or aluminum) with a cross section of up to 10 mm 2 under the bolt, then it can be bent into a ring of a suitable radius using round-nose pliers. The ring is cleaned from the oxide film with glass cloth or emery paper, lubricated with quartz-vaseline gel and put on the bolt (the ring should wrap the bolt clockwise), after which it is covered with an asterisk washer (prevents the conductor from being squeezed out), a grover (springs the connection, does not allow to unwind when vibrations), and the assembly clamp is tightened tightly with a nut. If a large-section conductor (from 10 mm 2) is to be clamped under the bolt, then a metal sleeve with a ring is pushed onto the conductor by crimping.

Switching wires is a very responsible job, while the process of assembling a circuit has a lot of nuances, which, for convenience, should be combined into one list:

  1. Strip the wires with special pliers, since when removing the insulation with a knife, the cross-section of the conductor is very often reduced.
  2. Always remove the oxide film from the conductor. Use glass skin or emery, use special fluids and contact paste.
  3. Twist the twist a couple of centimeters longer, and then cut off the excess.
  4. Select the diameter of the sleeve or tip as accurately as possible.
  5. Run the conductor under the terminal or sleeve / lug up to the insulation itself.
  6. Make sure that the wire insulation does not get under the clamp.
  7. If possible, wind and clamp not a single soft core into the tunnel screw terminal, but a twisted one.
  8. Using electrical tape, wind it with an overlap of turns in three layers, be sure to go to the insulating sheath of the conductor. The electrical tape can be replaced with heat shrink or plastic caps.
  9. Be sure to wrap the screw terminal blocks with electrical tape.
  10. Always check the tightness of the connection mechanically - tug on the conductors.
  11. Never connect copper and aluminum directly.
  12. Fasten the cable firmly near the patching area so that the wire does not pull downwards and the connection is not subjected to any mechanical stress.
  13. Use the color marking of the conductors, for example, in the entire intra-house network, the brown conductor will be the phase, the blue conductor will be zero, and the yellow conductor will be the ground.
  14. Accept a single connection diagram for the installation of all devices (for example, the phase on the sockets is clamped on the right terminal, and the neutral is not on the left).
  15. Mark both ends of all wires yourself - with a ballpoint pen on the outer sheath, at a distance of 100-150 mm from the edge of the conductor, write its purpose (for example, "pink kitchen desktop" or "light bedroom"). You can also use tags or pieces of masking tape.
  16. Leave a supply of wires convenient for installation. For junction boxes, sockets and switches, the normal end length will be 100-200 mm. To switch the board, you may need wires up to one meter long, so that you can wind some of them from the bottom of the box, and some from the top.
  17. Bring the external cable ducts to the junction boxes close, it is better to insert a round corrugation or pipes into the housing a few millimeters.
  18. We connect the sockets in parallel, and the switches in series. The switch should break a phase, not zero.
  19. Squeeze all wires of one switched twist into a bundle and fix it with electrical tape. Inside the box, separate the insulated connections as far apart as possible.
  20. Use only certified materials and specialized tools.

In conclusion, I would like to once again note the importance of high-quality performance of switching work. In fact, the technologies used are quite simple, you just need to make them a habit, and then the "installation culture" will appear by itself, and the wiring will be reliable and durable.

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