How to sheathe the inside of a frame house. Do-it-yourself interior decoration of a frame house - choosing suitable materials. General rules for carrying out work

Which facade to choose for a frame house?

Finishing the outside of a frame house is not an easy task, mainly due to the variety of facade finishing materials.

Exterior finishing of a frame house. Which material to choose?

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A frame house is a wooden house. Finishing a frame house is quite an interesting matter.

Due to the versatility of its design, the facade of a frame house can be anything: from wood to a “wet facade” and even real brick. The exterior decoration of a frame house can be almost anything depending on the wishes and financial capabilities of the person.

In this article we will look not only how to choose a facade for a frame house, but also what it should be pie wall frame for high-quality execution of a particular facade.

1. The facade of a frame house made of vinyl siding.

Vinyl siding how exterior finishing of frame house installed quite often, this is probably the most popular and affordable option. This is a budget option and looks quite decent. I decorated my own house with it, albeit vertically; I liked it more as a rather unusual option - you’ve probably already seen the photos in other posts.

Vinyl siding façade pies:

A. Ventilated
Interior finishing (often gypsum plasterboard) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 - hydro-windproof membrane - counter-lattice 50x25 (counter, because it runs parallel to the studs, and not perpendicular to the sheathing) - siding.
It should be clarified that in Canada itself, judging by the reviews of construction specialists, they almost never do this, but in Russia the climate is slightly different, so it is recommended to make siding with a ventilated facade for insurance.

B. Non-ventilated(Canadian version).
Interior finishing (often gypsum plasterboard) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 - hydro-windproof membrane - siding.

Siding installation:

The price is from 350 rubles per sq.m. for the most budget siding, but with more or less normal siding, all 500 rubles per sq.m. will come out.

2. Facade of a frame house made of painted facade boards (Swedish-Finnish version)

Typically in Scandinavia, the exterior finishing of a frame house is high-quality wooden boards or imitation timber good quality. Moreover, the front side of the board should be with a pile for better absorption of paint, and all other parts should be planed. Such exterior decoration The frame looks very decent, although the installation of such a board takes quite a long time.

There are several important subtleties with wooden board for facade and frame finishing:

— Needed grinding one side (as I already said). After that, you need to apply a primer to the entire board during the first two days, while the pores of the wood are open.
- After primers, before attaching the board to the facade, you need to paint it on all sides in one layer.
— We fasten the board to the facade, 2 nails 60 mm (galvanized) into each lathing through the board (or flush if you want to hide the nails)
— The gap between the boards should be about 2mm (nail)
— Apply 2 more layers of paint.

If everything is done exactly according to the technology, such a board can stand without additional painting according to 8-12 years(only high-quality paint is needed, for example, Nordica Eco 3330, Tikkurila or Teknos).

Wooden facades on a frame They are almost always ventilated, otherwise they will rot.

That's why frame house facade pie with imitation timber or facade board it usually looks like this:
Interior finishing (gypsum plasterboard or lining) - vapor barrier film - frame with insulation - OSB-3 (the Finns install soft fiberboard instead and then do not install a membrane) - waterproof and windproof membrane - counter-lattice 50x25 - facade board.

In the case of a vertical board on the facade, after the counter-lattice it also goes on top horizontal lathing approximately the same cross section.

In the Russian version wooden facade When finishing a frame house, imitation timber is often replaced with a regular edged board or lining. This doesn’t change anything fundamentally, except that the lining is often installed in a “herringbone” pattern, like this:

There are also several options for wooden vertical boards on the facade “with a strip.”

Minuses: flammability, need to be repainted after a certain number of years.

The price turns out to be about 650 rubles per sq.m.— (price for 2017) with your own hands (with 3 layers of paint and a primer not made by yourself).

3. Finishing the facade of the house with fiber cement siding

One of the most famous - fiber cement siding Eternit. Feels like ceramic tile to the touch. There is also Latonit, it is cheaper, but not as high quality. Exterior decoration frame houses from Eternite looks rich.

pros: durable, durable (longevity is promised to be about 30 years). It is painted in the factory, so it does not fade for decades.

Minuses: high price, non-trivial installation (150 page instructions), difficult to do it yourself if you don’t have experience yet. Misunderstandings with additional elements. Corners are often sealed with metal or wood.

Per sq.m.= 1000-1500 rubles

4. House facade made of clinker tiles or artificial stone using the “wet facade” system

Exterior finishing of a frame house according to the “wet facade” system requires high level training and skills. But to put it briefly:

Attach OSB-3 to the posts of the frame house. Attach 50-100 mm polystyrene foam to it (it’s better to use a special fastener rather than glue it). Then you make the first reinforcing layer, screws and clamping bushings, the second base reinforcing layer, and then attach clinker tiles or artificial stone weighing up to 44 kg/m2 to flexible glue.

This results in a so-called “wet façade”. Wet facade It is needed so that there is something to attach the trim to; it is not recommended to attach it directly to the foam.

Price 500-800 rub/m2, but for the work another 1200 rubles/m2.

To my house = with my own hands 150 thousand rubles, strangers 250 thousand rubles.

5. Plaster facade of a frame house

5.1. According to the “wet facade” system
Everything is the same as in the previous paragraph, only instead of tiles or stone there is paint.

Non-specialists will not distinguish your house from a stone one.

Components of this façade:
— Baumit KlebeSpachtel glue
— Valmirovskaya façade mesh
— Baumit UniversalGrund
— Baumit SilikonPutz plaster coat 2mm
- Styrofoam

5.2. Plaster facade using DSP


For this option, a cement-bonded particle board is used, followed by drywall.

Layers by DSP: primer - Knauf Sevener on fiberglass mesh - primer - Knauf Diamant

Knauf Diamant is already painted white. No paint needed.

6. Brick facade. Really?

Brick facades have also recently begun to be actively used in the finishing of a frame house. When cladding frame houses, you can use both “solid” and “hollow” bricks.

Attached brick to frame wall done like this:

Read more at brickwork like the facade of a frame house and (search the page for the word “brick”).

7. Facade of a frame house made of fiber board under half-timbering

- a slab made of cement (most of it) and wood. It doesn't burn. It is practically not afraid of moisture (especially if you soak it in drying oil).

Among the disadvantages of DSP: the slabs are very heavy, and it is also very difficult to cut them + dust flies a lot from this. In addition, you can’t just nail it down; you need to drill holes first. Also, according to eyewitnesses, the DSP in the frame often cracks, so better than crack close wooden planks“under the half-timbered roof.”

But many people simply install DSP and paint with water-based paint. And it seems like nothing bad happens.

Price per sq.m.= 215 rubles.

8. Finishing the facade of a frame house with metal siding

I saw several people on the forum who decorated their house metal siding and very satisfied. Metal as an exterior finish for a frame is still rare. The price is cheaper than vinyl, because... it does not require almost any additional elements, and for vinyl additional elements make up 50% of the cost.

The benefits of metal siding: strength, ease of fastening, speed of operation
Minuses: shields, aesthetics are not for everyone, can be subject to corrosion, easily scratched, overheats, condensation may form.

Must be installed with ventilation gap in the facade, like regular siding.

Price per sq.m.= 500 rubles

9. Finishing LP Smart Side siding panels based on OSB.

The material is new for Russia and is made on the basis of OSB-4. Some praise him, some criticize him. In terms of price, it is midway between regular siding and fiber cement. You can read reviews and opinions about it.

It is known that the cake needs a ventilation gap for it.

Video comparing its strength with the strength of fiber cement siding

Smartside Plus is that you only need to paint one side of the siding, and not 4 sides, as is the case with boards. Paint with acrylic paint in two layers. The joints need to be coated acrylic sealant(A la Titan for siding).

Another plus is durability: they promise 50 years.
Minuses The problem is that smartside is 2-3 times thinner than a wooden board and is not natural.

Price approx. 1100 rubles per sq.m.
Price for my house = 180 thousand rubles.

10. FSF plywood painted to look like half-timbered timber on a frame house

You may read reviews of this technology on the forum; topics appear quite often.

FSF plywood is attached to the frame and painted with 3 layers (primer + 2 layers of topcoat). The inner side is covered with one layer of soil.

And here estimate for the facade frame house in the photo:
Coniferous plywood FSF 9 mm, 1220x2440 mm, grade 2/3, NSh - 56 pcs - 35,784.00
Tikkurila Pika-Teho paint, white, matte, - 18 liters - 9,908.00
Primer composition Tikkurila Valtti Phyuste - 18 liters - 7,508.00
Galvanized self-tapping screws 4x50 3 kg - 615
Paint brush 1 pc – 90.00
Sealant gun 1 pc – 106.00
Frost-resistant silicone sealant 5 pcs - 540.00
Total 54,006.00(at 2018 prices)

Price per sq.m. it turns out to be only about 300 rub.

11. Finishing the frame with shingles (shingles).

Original, beautiful and very expensive. Price approx. 1200 rubles per sq.m.

Personally, I met in person very rarely.

It is done with a ventilation gap. You also need to make a gap between the shingles itself.

Many families today can solve their housing problem with the help of frame construction technologies. Thanks to modern building materials, frame houses are warm, durable and reliable structures. The interior decoration of a frame house is the most pleasant stage of construction, when the issues of arranging the rooms are resolved, and the moment of moving in is getting closer. Treat it with due responsibility - everything needs to be done thoroughly.

Preparatory work - we harness for a long time, we drive quickly

The most important stage interior works- this is insulation. You cannot save on it - in the future, such savings will result in high heating costs. But once you spend on it, you will forget about the large bills for public utilities. Insulation, like any process, should begin with preparatory work.

First of all, check with a level all the posts and beams for deviations from the vertical and horizontal directions. If everything was done correctly during the construction of the frame, only small deviations resulting from warping of dried wood are acceptable. An electric planer will help correct uneven areas, and trimming with an ax in the corners. Of course, you can carry out leveling in each of the rooms separately, but we recommend preparatory work all over the house at once.

To level the floor beams, wooden wedges are driven into the places where they are attached - be patient, as a very painstaking and tedious job awaits you. However, the time spent will be repaid by the ease of installation of cladding materials and perfectly smooth surfaces. Then swipe finishing wooden structural elements with fire retardants and antiseptics. Insulation usually starts from the floor, so that later it will be more convenient to move around inside the rooms and perform other work.

Thermal insulation of floors and ceilings – preventing heat loss

Before laying the subfloor between the beams, check again that the pipes in the underground space are installed correctly and that there is no debris or sawdust left. For better ventilation, the space inside the foundation is filled with sand or fine expanded clay.

For rough floors, ordinary boards are used - the quality of their front side does not matter, so they may have knots and unevenness. Provide outlets for pipes in the floor. Then wind and waterproofing is laid on the subfloor - the membranes are secured to the beams with a construction stapler. To insulate the floor, you can use the following options:

Be sure to leave an opening in the bathroom or pantry (if provided) for a hatch that will lead to the underground space. Exit there is needed for maintenance and checking the condition of plumbing, as well as inspecting the condition of the frame beams and floors. By the way, it is very convenient to store vegetables there, but be careful not to get rodents. Lack of access to the underground space is a construction mistake, and the sooner you correct it, the cheaper it will cost.

The ceiling should be insulated mandatory– hot air rises, and therefore due to uninsulated ceilings we often lose up to 30% of heat. In this case, it is convenient to use polystyrene foam - it is easier to attach it between the sheathing. Drywall is usually used to cover the insulation. A small finishing layer of putty and the ceiling can be painted or decorated with decorative panels.

You should not stop at just insulating the ceiling in the rooms - we advise you to insulate and attic space. To avoid unnecessary fuss, we recommend using modern sprayed thermal insulation materials - ecowool or polyurethane foam. Ecowool is cellulose that is sprayed dry or wet onto all surfaces. Polyurethane foam - analogue polyurethane foam, only in this case two-component. The components are mixed immediately before use and sprayed onto the walls, floor and ceiling.

Both options have great advantages over others thermal insulation materials– they create a monolithic layer of protection, in which cold bridges are excluded, and fill all voids and depressions.

Wall decoration – what to pay attention to?

The next step is finishing the walls. If you intend to glue wallpaper or paint the walls, then you can use the same drywall (moisture-resistant in the kitchen and bathroom), but most often the walls are finished with clapboard or false beams - this is beautiful, practical, and environmentally friendly. In addition, if necessary minor repairs The lining can be easily removed in the right places and then returned to its place.

An even faster option for finishing walls is the installation of wall and ceiling decorative and soundproofing panels, which have a layer of wallpaper or linen fabric already pasted on the front side. Such panels also improve thermal insulation, however, you should not rely on them alone. The tongue-and-groove connection allows the work to be completed very quickly and efficiently, and the precise parameters of the panels make it possible to create a monolithic coating without gaps.

After completing all this work, all that remains is to install partitions filled with mineral wool, mount window sills, slopes and install baseboards. It is very advisable to varnish wooden surfaces inside the house - this is necessary to protect the wood from dust and moisture. If you want the wood to breathe and release pleasant woody aromas, use a special oil that is usually used to coat parquet. The oil will protect the wood from moisture, but will not close the pores.

Boiler room and bathroom – premises with special status

The interior decoration of a frame house, in addition to insulation and decorative effect, has the task of protecting wooden elements from worst enemies frame structures- fire and water. It is especially important to implement high-quality protection in the bathroom and boiler room.

In the bathroom, the wooden frame should be protected moisture-resistant plasterboard, magnesite sheets are also suitable. Very important point– all joints and cracks should be sealed with waterproof sealant. It is advisable to choose a mastic that does not harden completely, for example, germobutyl. This material provides constant elasticity and flexibility without cracking over the years. It is recommended to completely coat the floor panels with sealant, also touching the lower edge of the walls to a height of 10–20 cm. This step is aimed at protecting the floor from possible leakage of pipes or equipment.

The heating boiler should be installed in a separate room with a separate entrance. Even if a fire hazard occurs inside the room, it will be much easier for you or firefighters to localize the fire and prevent the fire from spreading to other rooms. The main task of finishing a boiler room is not beauty, but increased safety and fire resistance. Therefore we recommend using cement bonded particle boards(DSP).

Typically these plates are used in facade works, since they do not absorb moisture, but in this case another parameter also plays a role - fire resistance. Wooden frame, covered with such slabs, can withstand almost an hour high temperatures combustion. If the frame is covered with plasterboard, the time to extinguish an open source of fire will be half as long.

Frame construction - a fast form of construction country houses, cottages and other low-rise buildings. The applied exterior finishing of a frame house is very diverse. Technologies frame house construction make it possible to construct buildings different forms and allow you to use almost any style in decoration.

Wood cladding

Exterior finishing of a frame house with imitation timber is most often used in construction. Firstly, this is the most traditional cladding option for Russia: wooden dachas can be seen in almost every village.

Secondly, such material has a number of significant advantages. Many people choose imitation timber for the following qualities:

• Environmental friendliness. Tree - natural material, which does not emit toxic substances. Residents of large cities often notice that after a couple of days spent in nature, their ailments, drowsiness and swelling disappear. Such “urban” symptoms can be caused by the presence of carcinogens in the air of the apartment, and ordinary ventilation will not help - a major overhaul is needed.

• The tree is not exposed to sunlight and moisture. Properly treated wood does not fade and lasts a long time.
• The style looks very original. Wood is not just a tribute to tradition, but also a great way to diversify the design of your home outside. You can make patterned wood inserts above the facade or order carved railings.

• Possibility of living in the building both in the summer heat and in winter frosts: the wood is resistant to temperature changes.
• Relatively low price.

There were no obvious disadvantages to the technology. It can be noted that wood lasts less than other materials, but modern methods treatments significantly increase operating time. Problems with finishing can only arise when purchasing low-quality wood, so choose the material carefully and do not try to save money. Remember: the miser pays twice.

Plaster

The exterior of a frame house with plaster is often used in warm countries. Light-colored materials reflect well Sun rays, which allows you to keep the room cool even in 40-degree heat.

The main advantages of this type of finishing are as follows:

1. Economical. Plaster will cost even less than wood.
2. Compatibility with other materials, variety of colors. You can choose the shade that will look beautiful and match with brick foundation or tiles.
3. Like wood, plaster is not affected by heat and moisture.

When choosing, pay attention to the material’s resistance to chemical and mechanical influences and “absorbent” properties. If the garden is located near country house, the walls should be easy to wash off dirt and soil.

A common mistake is to use plaster intended for interior decoration. These materials vary greatly in properties, so such a mistake can cost you many days of painstaking work replacing materials.

Siding

Thanks to modern look Exterior finishing of a frame house with siding is gaining popularity.

This material has become widespread in American cottage communities and has undeniable advantages:

1. The use of the material assumes a lifespan of about half a century.
2. There is no need for siding maintenance.
3. Low cost of the material itself along with installation.

However, in Russian realities Only residents of the southern regions can afford to use this material: siding is extremely unstable to temperature changes. The cold northern winter can have a detrimental effect on the siding of the house, and the siding will need to be replaced.

Materials for cladding abroad

Materials for exterior finishing of a frame house are very diverse in America and Europe:

• The facing brick looks unusual in combination with white window frames and small flower beds in front of the building. Such houses are most often one-story; with more floors, the brick looks too massive.

• A natural stone. Rarely used on its own, more often in tandem with wood and dark brick. This material makes the house look like a medieval fortress.
• Thermal panels, as a rule, are inserts that have a perfectly flat surface. They can be used to decorate the facade or balcony.

European classics

If you have ever been to a European village, you have probably noticed that the exterior decoration of frame houses in the half-timbered style is widely used. This design originated in Germany, where historical buildings in the half-timbered style were erected back in the 15th century.

The essence of the style is the use of inclined beams in the frame, fixed from the outside. Half-timbered houses, as a rule, combine plaster (the main covering of the walls) and wood (the beams themselves) in the cladding, which creates contrast: dark wood stands out against the background of light walls.

In Russia, this style has not received due recognition: the majority of the population adheres to traditions and prefers to use wood in the cladding of houses, and less often - plaster.

Half-timbered houses are widespread in Scandinavia; in Norway and Sweden, this house design became extremely popular in the 19th-20th centuries.

Popular solutions

When choosing a facing material, it is also important to consider color scheme, the combination of materials and colors should be harmonious.

Today, the following options for exterior finishing of a frame house are popular:

• Light plaster and dark tiles. The advantage of this combination is the possibility of using it both for small buildings and for 2-3-story houses. You can first build the main structure, and then make an extension in the form of a garage or a guest house, painting it in the same colors.

• Pastel siding and neutral roof. Since siding is not resistant to cold, such houses are most often used in southern regions, and sometimes the lower part of the house is faced with brick. So that the building does not look “bare”, around.
• A tribute to tradition - wooden houses made of polished logs in the style of an old hut or imitation timber. Some also prefer to frame the windows on the outside with wooden frames to complete the look.

The modern construction market is ready to satisfy any buyer’s request. If your budget allows you, you can choose ready-made solution for the construction of a frame house, which takes into account both finishing materials and color combinations.

I like

External wall cladding is one of the final stages of building a frame house. And here the choice of material is of great importance: the microclimate in the premises, the mechanical strength of the walls, and the reliability of protection from moisture and cold depend on it. In addition, the casing serves as the basis for finishing materials, and in some cases acts as finishing coating and is responsible for the aesthetic appearance of the building.

The sheathing gives the building frame a certain rigidity and takes on part of the load. This means that one of the main criteria is the mechanical strength of the material in bending and compression, and the absence of shrinkage during operation. The walls must retain their original shape for years, regardless of environmental conditions. In addition, the cladding must be resistant to moisture, sudden temperature changes, and the effects of microorganisms.

Next, you need to pay attention to the ease of installation of the material and its flexibility during processing. If you plan to sheathe it yourself, this aspect has great importance, because it depends on him how much effort and time the work will require. The material should be easy to cut and drill, but at the same time maintain density in cuts, not crumble, not crack. And, of course, it must be durable so that you don’t have to change the skin every 10-15 years.

Material selection

There are several types of materials that more or less meet these requirements: moisture-resistant plywood, fiberboard, OSB, edged boards, fiberboard. They have similar characteristics and are widely used in frame construction. To make a choice, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the main properties and features of each of them.

Oriented Strand Boards (OSB)

OSB panels are rightfully one of the most popular materials when arranging frame structures. They consist of layers of laminated wood chips and chips, with the fibers in the outer layers arranged longitudinally and transversely in the inside. Synthetic resins and wax are used to hold the chips together, giving the finished boards water-repellent properties.

Standard production involves the production of these slabs in several categories:

• OSB-1 is intended exclusively for interior decoration of dry rooms with reduced mechanical loads;
• OSB-2 is used for installation load-bearing structures in rooms with low humidity;
• OSB-3 is a moisture-resistant board of increased rigidity used for the installation of load-bearing structures indoors and outdoors.

In terms of the quality-functionality-price ratio, OSB-3 is the most optimal, and this material is widely used in private construction for wall cladding, the manufacture of load-bearing partitions, and reusable formwork when pouring concrete structures. The slabs lend themselves well to grinding, cutting, drilling, and hold nails tightly even at a distance of 6 mm from the edge. Such cladding can simultaneously serve as a decorative covering for walls; you just need to treat it with waterproof varnish or paint it.

Advantages of OSB:

• the dense structure prevents delamination and splitting of the material during processing and during operation;
• the plates have elasticity and high strength, excellent resistance to vibrations, compression loads, and various deformations;
• the material is resistant to weathering and temperature changes;
• OSB is resistant to microorganisms; insects and rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

• very low vapor permeability;
• flammability;
• content of toxic compounds (phenol and formaldehyde).

Main characteristics

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Cement particle boards (CSP)

This material is a compressed mass of M500 cement and wood shavings (usually softwood). A standard slab has three layers: the outer ones are made of small chips, the inner one is made of large ones. In addition to the main components, the composition contains hydration additives, the mass fraction of which does not exceed 3%. DSP is characterized by resistance to moisture, high strength, and long service life. The slabs are widely used in private and industrial construction, for indoor and outdoor work.

When covering a frame, such slabs serve as an excellent basis for cladding, decorative plaster, painting, because they form a perfectly flat and smooth surface. The material can withstand 50 cycles of complete freezing and thawing without losing its characteristics; subsequently, the strength of the slabs decreases by about 10%. Among wood-based panel materials, DSP is a leader in terms of environmental and technical indicators.

Advantages:

• very low hygroscopicity;
• resistance to mold and other microorganisms;
• DSP are not damaged by insects and rodents;
• the material does not emit toxic substances;
• low thermal conductivity;
• Fire safety.

Flaws:

• mechanical processing of plates requires significant effort;
• DSP is heavy compared to other materials;
• When cutting and drilling slabs, a lot of fine dust is generated, so you need to work in a respirator;
• high price.

Specifications

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

The material is sheets of compressed shavings, usually coniferous. During the pressing process, the raw material is highly heated, which makes it possible to achieve maximum density without the use of adhesive compositions. Thanks to this, fiberboard is an environmentally friendly material, and therefore suitable for both outdoor use and finishing of residential premises. The shavings contain natural resin, which acts as an antiseptic and protects the slabs from mold.

In terms of strength, fiberboard is noticeably inferior to natural lining and OSB, but it surpasses them in heat and sound insulation properties.

Windproof board "Beltermo"

Now on the construction market, fiberboards are represented by insulating boards of several well-known brands, the most popular of which are Beltermo and Izoplat. For cladding a frame house, slabs with a thickness of at least 25 mm are used; thinner sheets are used indoors.

Advantages:

• light weight;
• low thermal conductivity;
• ease of installation;
• the material does not delaminate or crumble;
• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to moisture and microorganisms;
• absence of harmful substances in the composition.

Flaws:

• high price;
• long stay without decorative finishing causes slight deformation of sheets;
• The outer lining of fiberboard requires spacer jibs in the frame or rigid inner lining.

Specifications

Prices for fibreboards (fibreboard)

Fiberboard (Fiberboard)

Gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

GVL consists of pressed gypsum reinforced with cellulose fibers. Due to its high strength, the material is suitable for creating load-bearing surfaces, therefore it is widely used in frame construction. It differs from plasterboard in its greater density, uniformity, and absence of a cardboard shell. In terms of frost resistance, sound insulation properties, as well as resistance to moisture and combustion, gypsum fiber boards are also several times higher than gypsum boards.

GVL installation is carried out using frame and frameless methods. For external wall cladding, the first option is used, where the sheets are fastened to the load-bearing posts using self-tapping screws. The material is easy to cut and drill, and, despite its heavy weight, is quite convenient to install. This cladding serves as an excellent basis for finishing with tiles and decorative plaster.

Advantages:

• low hygroscopicity;
• vapor permeability;
• absence of toxic compounds;
• fire safety;
• high heat and sound insulation properties.

Flaws:

• lack of ductility and fragility when bending the sheet;
• heavy weight.

Specifications

Plywood

Plywood is made by gluing together thin sheets of veneer from various types of wood (most often coniferous and birch). The sheets are laid perpendicular to each other relative to the location of the fibers, which helps to increase mechanical strength material and increases resistance to deformation. For external cladding frame walls plywood with increased moisture resistance is used, which is marked FSF. The thickness of the sheets should be from 9-10 mm; thinner material will not provide the required rigidity to the frame.

Plywood grade special significance does not have any for sheathing, and you can use the cheapest unsanded 4/4 grade boards.

From the outside, all defects will be hidden under curtain façade, so there is no point in overpaying. If the cladding technology is followed, the plywood covering will serve for years without losing its qualities.

Advantages:

• high bending and compressive strength;
• moisture resistance;
• wear resistance;
• ease of processing and installation;
• frost resistance.

Flaws:

• flammability;
• content of formaldehyde resins;
• tendency to chipping.

Specifications

Plywood prices

Edged board

Using edged boards for sheathing is the most economical option. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, affordable, and easy to install. Boards can be filled not only horizontally, but also at an angle of 45-60 degrees. To save material, boards can be fastened in increments of up to 30 cm, although more often the sheathing is made continuous. This design perfectly strengthens the frame and is a ready-made base for a ventilated façade.

In order for the cladding to be reliable, boards should be chosen with a thickness of at least 25 mm; they can be tongue-and-groove for greater joint density. You cannot use raw lumber: during the drying process, the wood will begin to warp, and deformations of the finishing coating may appear.

Advantages:

• wood does not emit harmful substances and has excellent vapor permeability;
• boards are easy to process;
• the work does not require large financial costs.

Flaws:

• flammability of the material;
• wood is susceptible to damage by insects and microorganisms;
• Fitting and fastening elements takes a lot of time.

Prices for edged boards

Exterior cladding technology

Installation of slabs on a finished frame is carried out using the same technology, regardless of the type of material. Simultaneously with the sheathing, vapor barrier and wall insulation are carried out, and finishing can be done immediately upon completion of construction or after some time. Let's look at the installation technology using the example of covering a frame with OSB boards.

Sheathing can be done in two ways - with and without lathing. In the first case, the vapor barrier layer is located between the frame and the OSB, in the second - on top of the sheathing. The option with lathing is used in cases where OSB acts as a basis for plastering, painting or tiling; the second method is used, as a rule, when installing a ventilated facade. Otherwise there are no significant differences.

Step 1. Start covering from the very corner. The first sheet of OSB is applied to the frame posts so that the bottom edge completely covers the bottom frame of the house. Be sure to check the horizontal level. It is also recommended to install the slab itself horizontally rather than vertically - this provides the structure with greater rigidity. To fasten the material, galvanized self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50 mm are used. It is necessary to retreat about 10 mm from the edge of the OSB, the fastening step along the perimeter of the sheet is 15 cm, in the center - 30 cm.

Advice. To firmly fix the slabs, the length of the hardware must exceed the thickness of the OSB by at least 2.5 times. If the self-tapping screw enters the frame beam less than 30 mm, under the influence of loads the sheathing will begin to tear away from the supporting base.

Step 2. The next plate is installed next to the first, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm for thermal expansion. In the same way, set the horizontal level and screw the casing to the frame guides. The joints of the plates must be in the middle of the rack, only in this case the fastening will be as reliable as possible. Fix the remaining slabs in a circle, leaving open areas for doorways.

Step 3. The second row of sheathing must be installed with ligation of vertical seams. The same gap of 2-3 mm is maintained between the lower and upper plates. When sheathing openings, you should use whole sheets, not scraps - the fewer joints, the more airtight the sheathing. Cutouts in sheets are made with a jigsaw or circular saw, having previously made markings accurate to the millimeter. The edges of the cuts after installing the slab should perfectly coincide with the lines of the openings.

Step 4. The top plates are installed so as to completely cover top harness. If the house has two floors, interfloor piping should be closed in the middle of the slab - under no circumstances should OSB be joined on this line.

Gallery 1. An example of the construction of a one-story frame house finished with OSB boards

Gallery 2. Sheathing a two-story frame house with OSB boards. Example

Step 5. After completing the installation, a windproof membrane is attached over the casing. Its sheets are stretched horizontally and fixed with staplers to the OSB. At the joints, the film is overlapped and taped. The material should not be pulled too tight, but there should be no sagging.

Step 6. Next, the sheathing slats are stuffed for finishing in increments of 50-60 cm. The slats must first be processed protective composition and dried. After this, you can begin installing siding, lining or other decorative covering for home.

On a note! If you plan to paint a facade made of OSB, then the membrane, accordingly, is mounted only with inside Houses.

With this method of cladding, the insulation is placed on the inside of the walls in the cells of the frame and closed vapor barrier film. Slabs for interior decoration, for example, plasterboard or the same OSB, are sewn on top of the vapor barrier.

Video - How to sheathe the outside of a frame house

Interior work is the final and, perhaps, one of the most creative and exciting moments in the long process of building and furnishing a new home. Since frame houses are very popular today, and this is the option chosen by people who prefer to save money (within reasonable limits, of course), it will be relevant to talk about finishing on a budget - and, at the same time, with high quality. After all, if you choose too expensive options, the savings obtained during construction will be practically “negated.”

In this article we will talk about what the interior decoration of a frame house can be like, and how to cope with all necessary work with his own hand.

What is commonly understood by the definition of “interior decoration”?

Decorating the building from the inside is the logical conclusion of the entire construction process. The interior decoration is divided into two important stages: rough and finishing work. You can handle both the first and second types of work with your own hands, because creating the interiors of a well-built frame house is a pleasure!

There are several rules, which should be taken into account when starting Finishing work V frame house, you must:

• finishing the rooms with your own hands is carried out one by one; you should not start interior cladding of all the rooms of your frame at once;
• The first room where finishing work will be carried out should be chosen as the furthest one, if you count from the front door;
• communications should be laid first ( electrical cable, water pipes, heating elements etc.) - and only after this can the covering of walls, ceilings, and the creation of floor coverings begin;
• in a frame structure, as in any other building, repairs should be carried out “from top to bottom.” That is, initially the surface of the ceiling will be covered with plasterboard or other suitable materials, then you can work on the walls and, finally, the floor. There is only one exception - stretch ceiling, which are installed after the wall repairs are completed.

Rough interior finishing of a frame house

Finishing rough work is necessary in order to thoroughly prepare all surfaces available in the premises (from ceiling to floor) for laying “finishing” materials. Successful finishing largely depends on how well the “rough” work was carried out. preparatory activities. They include leveling surfaces: with drywall, plaster mixtures, etc., as well as creating a “subfloor” (this can be concrete screed, laying boards on joists, leveling with plywood, etc.).

Universal drywall

The most common option (primarily due to the ease of installation and financial affordability) is, of course, finishing the walls and decorating the ceilings with plasterboard. It will not be so difficult to do such work with your own hands - however, you cannot cope with such work alone; you should invite one or two assistants to install the volumetric sheets.

The stages of covering surfaces with plasterboard will be as follows:

Step 1. We are preparing materials and tools. You will need a tape measure, a building level, sharp knife for cutting sheets, a spatula for subsequent filling of joints, a tape measure, fastening materials, a screwdriver.

Step 2. We mark the lines and use self-tapping screws to fix the starting profile on the walls and ceiling surface.

Step 3. The free space in the frame should be filled with insulation materials (for example, you can take the most popular option - stone wool).

Step 4. Laying it down plasterboard sheets onto the profile, fix it with self-tapping screws, recessing the fastener head by at least 1 mm.

Step 5. We fill the joints between the sheets, all existing seams with putty compound (you can take a ready-made compound). Level the surface.

Step 6. We sand the joints using sandpaper (you need to take paper with fine grain). The surface is prepared for subsequent finishing.

This video shows the entire installation process on the walls:

Leveling walls and ceilings OSB boards performed in the same way as with plasterboard. The only caveat: this material is heavier, which means the frame for it should be stronger and more reliable. For fixing sheets to wooden elements The frame you created should use special five-centimeter spiral nails.

OSB sheets are often used for rough work on creating flat surface floor. Such sheets are laid perpendicular to the joists. Using the same principle, floors can be leveled using plywood.

Finishing of rooms in frame buildings

For the finishers, finishing work Almost the same materials can be used as for decorating rooms in any other buildings. The most popular solutions for finishing wall surfaces:

• painting with special interior paints;
• cladding of prepared wall surfaces with clapboard made of natural wood. We discussed this process in detail in the article;
• using the most wallpaper various types(vinyl, non-woven, paper, " liquid wallpaper", photo wallpapers or environmentally friendly and fashionable bamboo wallpapers);
• usage ceramic tiles or plastic panels(relevant for bathrooms, toilets, creating kitchen “aprons”). The panels can be mounted either on a pre-prepared frame made of metal profile, and directly on drywall (For wet areas plasterboard sheets must be special - with maximum moisture resistance). As for ceramic tiles, the surface for its installation should be prepared especially carefully. As a rule, tiles are attached either to a plastered surface or directly to plasterboard previously installed on the wall surface. For frame, relatively light walls, the second option is preferable;
• decorative plaster: a material that was once considered luxurious and very expensive, but today has become available even with a very modest budget for your renovation. Aesthetic, fireproof, durable plaster can be applied to pre-prepared and carefully leveled walls with your own hands (V construction stores For these purposes, you can purchase special figured spatulas, with the help of which various interesting patterns are made on the walls and unusual textures are created).

Ceilings in frame buildings

To decorate the ceiling surface in the rooms of a residential building, various materials available on the modern construction market can be used. As a rule, most of the work that involves decorating ceilings can be done relatively easily with your own hands. Most common options ceiling decoration the following:

• suspended ceilings (they are installed exclusively by specialists who use special types equipment);
• plasterboard (with its help it is possible to create either a simply flat ceiling or create multi-level, complex and unusual types of structures);
• coffered ceilings: made of wooden panels (this can be lining, MDF boards), mounted on a pre-prepared frame;
• plastic ceilings (recommended exclusively for non-residential rooms: bathroom, toilet, utility rooms, possibly (if minimum budget renovation) – kitchen;
• fiberboard slabs.

Before proceeding with the design of the ceiling surface, it is very important to carry out preparatory work and install vapor barriers and thermal insulation. Vapor barrier materials are mainly special polymer membranes, various films or foil materials. For thermal insulation they usually choose mineral wool, polystyrene foam and ecowool are used much less frequently.

A few words should be said about what materials should be chosen for finishing floors. Given the fact that frame buildings built from natural wood, it would be fair to give preference to wooden coverings: laminate, floorboard. Often for budget repairs this type of modern material like laminate.

However, for the kitchen, wet rooms, as well as for rooms with the highest traffic (for example, a corridor), the use of laminate is more than undesirable. IN unfavorable conditions such material will quickly lose its qualities, both aesthetic and functional.

For the bathroom, kitchen, toilet, corridor current solution is porcelain stoneware, ceramic floor tiles. Such material is laid on a pre-prepared screed using special adhesive compounds. In addition, the tiles can also be laid on a floor surface that is leveled with plywood.

A practical, comfortable and durable flooring material is linoleum. But its important drawback is that this material is synthetic, its environmental characteristics are quite low. Therefore, it would be reasonable to finish the floor using linoleum, primarily in non-residential and utility rooms of your frame house.

And here is an example of already completed interior decoration with explanations from the builders: