Log houses: how to build a high-quality and warm home? Do-it-yourself log house How to build a log house

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His topic collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco-hut.
• Preparation.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Interior work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 User FORUMHOUSE

The dream of building has long crept in wooden house– environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other “benefits” of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable home, suitable for winter driving and year-round residence, therefore, shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of the past centuries were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the design:

• Pile foundation.
• Box made of hand-cut logs.
• Metal roofing.
• Sawdust with and sawdust with lime are used as insulation for floors.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden cabin and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman set his sights on a one-and-a-half-story log house, 8x9 meters, with five rooms, but as he began to think about it, a completely different design emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic, both due to my reluctance to do staircase fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with the planned stove heating there will be a large temperature difference between the levels. Plus, it’s problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with a ceiling and a cold attic it is much easier. Next it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of the selection optimal layout became a project for a 6x6 meter log house, with a set of functional rooms.

The vital meters needed for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings on operation by reducing heating costs, and the specifics of a dacha - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping.” However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned log cutting into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, but a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few people work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but also “ dovetail"with a crossing is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference screw piles was chosen because of the desire to try an “ultra-modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. A total of nine piles were screwed in - three support points for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness - 4 mm. Despite some problems when installing piles and the flimsiness of the coating, which is positioned as durable protective layer, but in fact, it can be easily removed with a fingernail, and the craftsman is pleased with the choice. Moreover, perhaps the bathhouse will also be placed on stilts, although he admits that a tape or slab “will be more reliable.”

Box

The frame was collected using moss that had been ordered in advance from another region; before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and had not dried out much during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team delivered and in another day assembled just a box, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely all over the walls, it took significantly less than planned, as practice has shown - they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, ventilation holes measuring 30x30 cm were cut out, with gratings. To everyone who is just in the process, mike099 advises making more of them. I did the curling (the initial caulking of a log house with moss) on my own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, and cutting off the excess with a utility knife.

Roof

From popular now soft tiles the craftsman refused for several reasons.

mike099

I rejected the soft roof immediately, due to its less environmental friendliness and higher price. The binders, the basis of soft tiles, are far from natural materials. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a smooth flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore I preferred metal tiles, imitating a ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of sub-rafter elements there is a central supporting ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50×50 mm), lathing with pitch to match the covering profile (35 cm). As planned - eaves overhangs 70 cm each, in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the frame “under the roof,” I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary flashings made of waterproofing along the ends, cracks of the flashings and at the junction of the frame and trim. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemicals, I had to treat the imitation timber gables with protective impregnation.

Interior work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber; I wanted to maintain the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, just like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board, 50 mm thick, covering the cracks unedged board 25 mm thick, all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made some of the openings myself, as specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The frame was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were marked with a saw, the main cutting was done with a milling cutter. I laid a 50x50 mm dry block with linen tape (insulation) and attached a box of 200x50 mm boards to it with self-tapping screws.

Another relief in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden Euro windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows himself, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory quality, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal despite the high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. The foundation under the furnace is 1.7 m deep, reinforcement cage, two m³ of concrete.

As the subfloor dried, it showed cracks; I had to cover them with strips; before adding sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying, the sawdust was flavored with lime and carefully compacted. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman installed communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after drying for just one day and the falling out of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with an insulated underground - metal carcass along the perimeter of the base, to it, XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site was right under the log house, and the base was later lined basement siding under brickwork.

Sanding logs mike099 started on my own, first with the help of an eccentric grinding machine. It turned out to be rather weak, so we replaced it with a grinder, first I used a wheel with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. The vacuum cleaner alone collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

Work order

The wall kit is a set of logs in which connecting bowls and a mounting groove are made; with its help, the parts will be tightly connected: without cracks and moisture penetration. Since all elements are made on special equipment, they fit together as closely as possible. The owner can only arrange them correctly according to the numbering.

At good quality connecting elements, the assembly of a bathhouse from rounded logs, as well as the construction of a full-fledged country house, will take a little time. The main work can be completed in a few days, after which we can move on to installing a temporary roof. The disadvantage of any wooden structure is the long waiting period: at least six months must pass before finishing can begin.

Installation of windows and doors

A gap is left between the casing and the wall, which will gradually decrease. It is filled with elastic insulation: this will preserve the energy efficiency of the building and will not interfere with the normal course of shrinkage processes.

In order to prevent negative processes during the waiting period, you need to start heating correctly. Cannot be heated wooden building in the first six months after construction. If it’s warm inside and cold outside, the wood will dry unevenly and cracks will appear in it.

They will not only reduce the thermal insulation of the house, becoming a gateway to the cold, but will also negatively affect the strength of the structure, as they will gradually expand. The optimal time to turn on the heating is a year after completion of construction, and at first the temperature inside should not exceed 8 degrees. In any case, cracks cannot be avoided, but they can be minimized. To do this, an assembly cut is made in the upper part of the cylinder along its entire length. It makes inevitable deformation controllable and relieves stress from wood fibers.

Processing and insulation

After the end of the main shrinkage period, you can proceed to finishing. There is an opinion that a building made of cylinders does not need it at all, this is not entirely true. Even if you don't want to hide natural beauty wood, you need to protect it from rotting and the destructive effects of insects.

Disadvantage of interventional insulation from natural materials in fragility: it deteriorates over time, birds take it away. However, the seams can be closed in another way: one option is a seam made of acrylic sealant. Using a special tool, they fill all the cracks with it, and after drying, it reliably protects the house from the cold. At the same time, it does not reduce environmental friendliness; the walls will “breathe”.

Self-installation will allow you to build a warm and beautiful house at no extra cost. With just a few basic skills, almost every homeowner can build a strong, long-lasting home.

Before a set of lumber is delivered to the site, the foundation should be prepared and maintained: it will take at least a year to gain strength and stability concrete base. Early assembly of the cylinder is prohibited.

• Cracks are the most common defect in a finished platform. Installing a house on a cracked foundation will lead to further destruction. They occur for many reasons: incorrectly chosen type of foundation, poor-quality concrete mass, failure to take into account the vagaries of the soil, close groundwater.

To preserve the platform for a long time, we must not forget about the internal and external insulation. The first is done at the pouring stage, the second is done immediately after waterproofing, pressing polystyrene slabs against liquid bitumen. Then the insulation is also covered with mastic, special attention is paid to the joints and seams.

Before work on assembling the cylinder begins, the foundation is separated from the crowns with a larch board - this species is not in the least afraid of dampness. It is drilled and placed on the platform reinforcement, which must be coated with bitumen. Typically, the first row is a wider central bank than the rest: in this case, the stability of the object is ensured.

Ready log house impregnate protective compounds, covered with waterproofing and left for a period of six months to one and a half years, depending on the volume of the structure.

Plank roofing material accepted immediately, so there is less risk ready house weather changes, in particular rain. The choice of coating depends on the size of the slope angle: the steeper it is, the more structural the material.

Cutting openings, inserting doors and windows

- a reason to turn to professionals. Instructions for assembling a log house from rounded logs are given in general provisions , each stage contains many nuances regarding the type of wood, the architecture of the house, the length of the canes and others. important points Special attention should be given to the finished building for its processing before starting finishing works . However, the technology described is quite simple and, following it, you can install own house

or a bath is easy.

For many, owning a home is a dream that can be realized in our time. However, even in order to build a house from a log, you must obtain permission. The procedure for obtaining a building permit is defined in the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation. Today, building a house from a log with your own hands is quite feasible task

, the main thing is to know the order of its construction. In Rus', houses were traditionally built from logs or bricks, but with the advent of modern building materials, log houses began to be used less frequently as a method of building homes. Currently, the construction of houses from wooden beam

Looking at an already built log house, it may seem that it is quite simple to make the same one with your own hands. This is a misconception, and if you decide to build a log house with your own hands, you must prepare thoroughly, the step-by-step instructions below will help you with this.

Log as a building material and a tool for its processing

Image 1. The scriber, thanks to two bubble levels, will help make more accurate measurements compared to the line.

For private housing construction, wood can be considered ideal building material. With the relatively light weight of wood, it can be used to build a durable low-rise building. Therefore, if you wish, you can build both a house and a bathhouse from a log with your own hands. To build a wooden house, you will need the following tools:

• axe;
• hand saw;
• electric drill;
• electric saw or chainsaw;
• the “dash” marking tool (scriber), shown in image 1.

A log processed by hand by removing branches and bark is called wild, while a log processed on special machines is called rounded.

Building a house from hand-processed logs is much more difficult than from rounded logs. After processing in production, the material is almost ready for the manufacture of a log house.

The main problem when cutting a log house is the binding of logs in its corners. The logs can be connected so that they do not protrude beyond the wall. It's economical profitable technology fastenings, since the entire length of the log is usefully used. Such connection options are shown in Image 2.

Image 2. Options for connecting logs.

The connection, which is called “with the remainder,” gives the house originality, since in our time such a structure looks unusual. In this option, the ends of the logs protrude beyond the walls, which increases material consumption.

There are many options for corner joining of a log frame “with the rest”, but the most common are three: a simple bowl, a ridge and a fat tail. These connection options are shown in Image 3.

Comparing the options for corner joints, it is easy to see that it is easier to make connections “with the remainder” manually, and a connection such as a simple bowl is made in production at .

Image 3. Options for corner joining of a log frame “with the remainder”.

If you need to increase the length of the log, then the simple method shown in image 4 is.

Along the crown of the logs, they are additionally fastened with dowels. A dowel is a metal or wooden rod. It is driven through the upper crown into the lower one so that there is a gap between the bottom of the hole in the lower crown and the end of the dowel to compensate for wood shrinkage. It is advisable to use a dowel made of wood of the same species as the main log. To drill holes for the dowel, you will need an electric drill and a drill of the appropriate diameter.

Return to contents

Features of wooden buildings

Based on centuries-old construction practice wooden houses, for their construction they use forest with natural moisture. To prevent splashes from rain and water from melting snow in the spring from falling on the lower crown of the house, its foundation must rise above ground level by at least 50 cm. To protect the walls from rain, the overhang of the roof of a wooden building must be at least 60 cm, it is better if it will be equal to 90 cm. However, there is no guarantee that such a design will be able to protect the walls from heavy rain.

Image 4. A method for increasing the length of a log.

Before deciding how to build a house, you need to keep in mind that in order to maintain a log house in proper condition, you will first need to thoroughly treat the wood with insecticides, and during operation, periodically inspect the log house for the presence of pests and treat it with antiseptics.

If there is no basement in the house, the log house can be installed on a monolithic strip foundation without deepening it below the freezing level of the soil. You can use either a columnar or screw foundation with a grillage. Example strip foundation is shown in image 5 and image 6 is an example screw foundation, where the lower crown of logs is used as a grillage.

In terms of energy saving, wooden buildings are more efficient than brick ones, since at night they release the solar heat accumulated during the day more slowly at night, but this does not exclude the need for their insulation. Modern requirements In terms of energy saving, they have become much stricter, and to fulfill them, the thickness of the wooden wall must be at least 53 cm. This means that in order to comply with energy saving requirements, insulation is indispensable.

Images 5, 6. Examples of foundations.

In addition, some requirements that promote energy saving should not be neglected. Thus, it is advisable to locate living quarters on the south side, with the maximum possible number of windows on the same side. You should not experiment with the shape of the structure. There should be as few protrusions as possible, as well as extra balconies.

To conserve heat, the garage and boiler room should be located on the north side of the building. On the same side, it is advisable to provide a window with which, in the summer heat, you can create natural ventilation, helping to cool the indoor air.

Return to contents

About preparation for building a house

Image 7. An example of a wooden house project.

Before you start construction, you need to be well prepared. It is advisable to use the services of a specialist knowledgeable construction of buildings made of wood and in particular from logs. He will create a project taking into account the features construction site and the wishes of the future owner. It is easier to build a house from rounded logs.

In this case, you can use ready-made projects, making minor changes to them, which will allow a complete set of logs to be prepared under production conditions. An example of such a project is shown in Image 7.

Rounded logs have significantly less shrinkage and are treated with high-quality antiseptics. It is very important that the longitudinal groove in them be ideally selected.

If you prepare the groove yourself, you will need a scriber. The process of marking and making a longitudinal groove using an ax or chainsaw is shown in image 8.

Images 8, 9. Cutting out a longitudinal groove and option for laying logs.

It is necessary to prepare a site for storing the material. Image 9 shows an option for laying logs.

When purchasing material, you need to pay attention to its color. It should be yellow or dark yellow. There should be as few knots as possible and no resin pockets. Cracks should not exceed a third of the cut. The logs must be absolutely even along their entire length and not helical. When examining the ends of the logs, you need to make sure that the core occupies more than ¾ of the entire cut area and that the cut is even and the wood is dense.

It is advisable to build a wooden house in winter in those areas where the winter is real, frosty and without sudden thaws, therefore, the humidity is minimal. However, the foundation must be built in the summer.

The foundation for a wooden house has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. The height of the base must be at least 50 cm. Vents must be provided in the foundation to ensure ventilation of the underground, which will prevent the formation of mold.

Technology for assembling a log house from rounded logs.

Technology Withconstruction of houses from rounded logs combines both time-tested techniques and latest achievements modern science, and has its own characteristics. That's why assembly of a log house should be carried out by specialists with experience in wooden house construction.

After constructing and waterproofing the foundation, antiseptic backing boards are laid (see photo below).

Sbo arch of the log house walls should be carried out according to assembly drawings ( sweeps wall elements ). Before laying the logs, inter-crown insulation is attached to the longitudinal groove - jute fabric 5 mm thick and 200 mm wide, bending the edges of the jute inward and straightening it on the cup (Fig. 2). Jute fabric contains lignin (20%), this practically corresponds to the lignin content in wood. During the construction of a house, the walls shrink, compacting jute fabric, which, when gluing fibers with lignin, acquires the required density and solidity, as well as increased resistance to moisture.

Log crowns fasten together wooden dowels in a checkerboard pattern every 1-1.5 m, which ensures the strength of the structure and prevents the logs from moving relative to each other (Figure 3). Section dowel there must be square shape, which provides a smaller contact area between the dowel and the hole in log and protects the log house from hanging logs.

Splicing of logs along the length is done in splits, fastening the joint with steel staples or pins. This nuance may not be noticeable to the Customer, but if this is not done, then after shrinkage, cold bridges - gaps - will form between the logs in the joints, which can lead to a loss of thermal conductivity resistance.

After assembling the walls of the first floor, the installation of floor beams is carried out. The cross-section and pitch of the floor beams are selected depending on the span length and load. Floor beams are cut into the wall (Figure 4) or secured with special metal supports, pendants.

During installation rafter system must be taken into account design features wooden buildings- their “mobility” and shrinkage (Figure 5).