Floor options in a residential building. Wood flooring in a private house. Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

The most common option for arranging the foundation for small private houses, when it is not recessed strip foundation(no basement), and the base of the floor is created directly on the existing soil. This is done where there is no threat of high standing groundwater, and the relief of the site is uniform, lying approximately at the same level of the horizon. If the soil is located on a steep slope, the soil moisture is excessive throughout the year, it makes sense to make the base of the floor of the first floor of the house at a distance from the ground, leaving a ventilated space between them. We will consider the features of the device of both floor options in private houses in this article.

Features of the foundation

The advantage of floors that rely directly on the underlying soil layers is that they do not carry an additional load on the foundation of a private house. The floors of the first floor, which are not in contact with the soil, provide for the device of a kind of floor slab that rests on the foundation. Therefore, the second option requires taking these features into account when designing and calculating the required width of the base sole.

If the base of the floor of the first floor is a reinforced concrete slab, it is imperative to take care of waterproofing the foundation itself and the place of its contact with the overlapping structure, especially if this option is chosen due to high soil moisture. A plate not insulated with a hydro-barrier will draw moisture from the foundation, which will lead to its premature destruction and loss of strength, as well as the penetration of moisture into the house. In addition, care should be taken to ventilate the space between the floor and the soil, thereby reducing the level of humidity here.

Installation of the ground floor of the first floor

This method of arranging floors in a private house where there is no basement is considered the simplest in terms of execution and inexpensive in terms of material costs. There are two main options that apply in this case:

device of a concrete base of the floor (screed);
mounting wooden floors by lags.

Each of the options presented has its own characteristics, both in terms of the complex of necessary work, and in terms of the end result... The choice often depends on what building material is the main one in the construction of the house itself. If the walls are made of logs or beams, a wooden floor will be more organic. In a stone or brick building better fit screed. But this is not an absolute regularity, so there may be other combinations.

Insulated concrete screed

A base made of concrete, which is poured over the ground, has long been used in all kinds of household and technical buildings, such as garages, sheds, warehouses. On the ground floors of private houses without a basement, concrete screeds have been used relatively recently as the basis for the finishing flooring. Several factors influenced the popularization of this method, such as:

the need to create flat horizontal surfaces, which is required by some types of modern floor coverings;
the emergence of available materials for effective thermal insulation;
installation of water underfloor heating systems.

Now let's take a step-by-step look at how to correctly create a concrete screed on the ground on the first floor of private houses.

Preparation and rough filling

Preparatory work start with tamping the soil and adding a cushion for a rough screed. It is possible to compact the soil either manually, using a simple device in the form of a piece of log with an attached double-sided handle, or mechanical devices that exist for these purposes. In order for the compaction process to be most effective, the soil surface is abundantly wetted with water.

The initial backfill layer is selected based on its total thickness. If the distance from the soil to the level of the intended floor is significant (more than 25-30 cm), the most available material... It could be construction garbage or clay.

Further, the pillow is formed by a layer of coarse gravel, the thickness of which should be about 10 cm. Gravel creates a rigid base, roughly levels the surface and prevents a possible capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. On top of the gravel, a sandy (or fine gravel) pillow is formed about 5-7 cm thick. The quality of the sand does not play a role here, so a clay-rich career option is quite suitable. The sand cushion is leveled as much as possible, after which a strong plastic film is laid. The latter has two functions:

the first layer of waterproofing;
obstacle for water contained in concrete.

The foil is laid as a continuous one, with an approach to the walls up to 15 cm. Now you can pour a rough layer of concrete. For these purposes, a lean solution is usually prepared, where the ratio of fillers (sand and gravel) and cement is approximately 9: 1. Here, instead of rubble, if possible, you can use expanded clay. A cushion made of expanded clay concrete will provide additional insulation for the base of the floor. The rough screed is formed in a layer of about 10 cm. Despite the fact that the initial fill should not have an ideal surface, it is advisable to level it more carefully. This will facilitate further waterproofing and installation of insulation.

Important! For the preparation of concrete, any sand will not work. There is a lot of clay in the quarry material, which will drastically reduce the strength of the concrete slab and lead to its cracking. For these purposes, river sand or washed sand is needed, including for the preparation of expanded clay concrete composition.

The draft layer is usually not reinforced, since the load on it is low. After pouring, a break in work is necessary to allow the concrete to gain strength. Although the material crystallizes completely within 26-28 days, it is sufficient to wait a week. During this time, concrete with sufficient moisture gains about 70% strength. During this period, you need to monitor proper hydration. concrete surface, especially if the work is carried out during the hot season. For this, maturing concrete should be abundantly wetted 1-2 times a day.

How to waterproof and insulate the floor?

For the main waterproofing layer, it is better to use not a polyethylene sheet, but a full-fledged, reliable material. Here it will be enough to process the rough concrete base with bitumen, followed by the laying of roll material. Roofing material or hydrostekloizol will do. Rolls are rolled out with the overlap of adjacent strips by 10-15 cm. In this case, hot gluing can not be used, but it is necessary to process the joints with bituminous material. Roll material is laid with the approach to the surface of the wall above the level of the intended finishing screed.

You can insulate the floor with dense foam (it is cheaper), or extruded polystyrene foam. The second one is preferable for these purposes, since it is much stronger, absolutely hydrophobic and its plates usually have tongue / groove joints at the edges, which greatly simplifies its installation. Seams between sheets of insulation can be filled with polyurethane foam or treated with special glue. With foam, you need to go through the gaps around the perimeter of the room between the wall and the expanded polystyrene.

Finishing fill

For these purposes, a solution is prepared with a normal ratio of 4: 2: 1, or 3: 3: 1, where, respectively, gravel, sand, cement. Before the final pouring of concrete, it is necessary to lay a mesh for reinforcement and install beacons, thanks to which it will be possible to achieve a strictly horizontal surface.

Reinforcing mesh can be used with a metal mesh of 100 mm, or rigid plastic. Reinforcing elements are laid with an overlap (1-2 cells), not reaching the wall about 1.5 cm. Here, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter, which is designed to compensate for the temperature changes in the linear dimensions of the screed. The mesh should not lie on the insulation, but is located approximately in the center of the concrete layer. To do this, use special stands or improvised means ( bottle caps, fragments of bricks, etc.).

After the installation of the finishing subfloor and its careful leveling (grinding or self-leveling solutions), it remains to wait for it to fully ripen and start laying the final flooring.

Installation of wooden floors

Despite the wide variety of modern flooring, wood floors have a huge following among consumers. This can be understood taking into account the fact that wood is the most environmentally friendly material, which is able to create a favorable microclimate in a residential area. Moreover, the modern board that is used for flooring allows you to make an ideal surface without cracks, which is appearance is in no way inferior to parquet.

The classic way flooring floor boards assumes the presence of a lag, - wooden beams that are located in parallel with a certain step, which depends on the thickness of the floor wooden layer. On the first floor of a private house, when the flooring is done on the underlying soil, preparatory and intermediate work before creating rough base and its waterproofing is no different from that described above. That is, for the construction of a high-quality wooden floor, a reliable, leveled concrete base is also needed.

After installation load-bearing beams the floor should be insulated. The use of polystyrene foam is undesirable here, since these materials do not allow steam to pass through, which can cause condensation water to form, which will adversely affect the wood. In addition, foam, for example, can be chosen by rodents, which will entail some discomfort.

For a wooden floor on the logs of the first floor of a private house, it is better to use mineral wool, or rather one of its varieties. However, when laying mineral wool, you should take care of the moisture insulation of the insulation. If the hydro-barrier has already been created from below (on top of the rough screed), then all that remains is to arrange the upper layer of the hydro-barrier film.

When building a house is started, the question of floors arises first of all, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and hence the health of the residents, will depend on them. The device of floors in a private house can be carried out in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

Wood has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
Concrete pavements are more durable than wood, but require good insulation therefore they are often combined with a wooden floor.
Screed or floating floors were not so popular with home owners in the past, but recently, many are increasingly turning to this option, since it is easy to install, and it can be done in literally one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features of your device, depending on the design of the house, on the area on which it should be laid, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even on the financial capabilities of homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm and pleasant to walk on, each of its types requires insulation, so it is definitely included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wooden floors can be made different ways, but they are always fixed on logs, which are made from beams laid on concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is possible only in a room with a small area, for example, a narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are subdivided into single-layer and double-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Support pillar floors

The floors on the support pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall coating. The lag system, arranged only on the support pillars, is called "floating".

"Floating" floor on support pillars

The floors according to such a system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house to install brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected, the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.

At the bottom of the dug holes, crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured, then filled with water and carefully compacted. The better the bottom is rammed, the more reliable the support for the lag system will be, therefore this process must be carried out conscientiously.

Red brick pillars are laid on the rammed pillow, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their size should be at least 40 × 40 in cross section, and preferably 50 × 50 cm. The erected pillars are adjusted according to the level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.

On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, they are embedded threaded rods or anchors are installed, on which the floor beams will subsequently be fixed.

It should be noted that if a building or a room has a small area, then support pillars can be arranged only around the perimeter of the future room, but in this case, massive beams must be laid on them.

After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their top. Better if it is three to four layers of roofing material.

Holes are drilled in the beams through which the fastening pins will pass.

Beams from a bar or log are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on pins and set in level, leveling with the help of wooden lining boards.When the base of the floor is exposed, it is better to fix the lining to the bars with the help of nails, and the bars themselves must also be fixed by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the pins are too high, it is cut off with a sander.

It is best to cover the surface of the underground with expanded clay, with a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well contain moisture that can come from the ground, and will additionally insulate the floors.

In order for the floor arranged in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this version all the conditions have been created for this. If it is supposed to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wood flooring the distance is not more than ten centimeters.

Rough floor

The sub-floor can be arranged in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

If slag or expanded clay will be used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the lower cut of the beams. The gaps between the boards are coated with clay, diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, you can fill in the cells with insulation, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors are insulated with mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the underside of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and to the lower boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also closed on top with a vapor barrier, attached to the beams using a stapler and brackets.

Then logs-bars measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a clear example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

Arrange a wooden floor and on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

The soil is underground, it is necessary to compact it well, and arrange on it a cushion of sand, gravel or crushed stone of the middle fraction, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, and then compact it again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the tamped pillow. If desired, you can lay a reinforcing mesh under it, for greater strength. The waterproofing should be at least 10 centimeters on the walls.
On waterproofing, put bricks on the mortar or concrete blocks, which will later become a support for the beams. The supports are placed so that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other ( standard width insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - it can be foam plastic of 50 ÷ 100 mm or mineral wool.
On bricks, or better - on concrete blocks, they install wooden beams, align them in level, and secure with a corner.
Between the laid beams, for more insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
On top of the insulation, cash yeah fix the vapor barrier film.
Then a floorboard is laid, which is fixed with carnations, carefully driven into the side of it.
The board is laid at a distance one and a half centimeters from the wall to provide ventilation.

Wooden floor on a concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, logs can be laid directly on concrete or, if it is necessary to raise the floors to a small height of 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot save on logs - they must be massive enough, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be noted right away that with such a floor device, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the above-described subfloor, otherwise it will be very cold.

First, a preliminary marking of the location of the lags is made on the concrete pavement. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account the future insulation. Marking is done by beating off the line with color.
Further, on the broken lines, marks are made at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located approximately at the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
In the beams themselves, at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the concrete surface, holes are drilled, and then the beam is put on the studs.
Then, using a level, the clamps are twisted in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to the ideal horizontal, controlling its level.
On top of the studs, the nuts are tightened, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next stages are the construction of the subfloor, insulation and flooring of the clean floor.

Fastening the lag directly to the screed

Arrange logs on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself with the right tools.

Stripes are beaten off on the concrete pavement, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Further with the help anchorage the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the bars can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be nice to lay a thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be fixed to the logs with staples.
Along the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, lay on the covered polyethylene insulation plates material or expanded clay of small or medium fraction is filled up.

From above, it is imperative to close the insulation with a vapor barrier film.

Further it is laid batten or thick plywood, and on top you can lay and decorative coating.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor is also arranged in different ways, but, in general, they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete pavement is mainly made in houses with concrete or brick walls, and proceed to its device after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If necessary, the top layer of soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be tamped well, pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be tamped. The thickness of its backfill must be at least 10 centimeters.
Then they arrange rough screed... It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam crumbs to the solution. In addition, in this case, the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished solidified rough screed, you need to spread the waterproofing, which should be 15-20 centimeters on the walls. For her, you can take roofing material or an ordinary thick plastic wrap- the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with gluing overlaps.

Insulation is poured onto the waterproofing - expanded clay, or extruded high-density polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the owner of the house and depending on climatic conditions region where the house is built.
A metal reinforcing mesh is installed on top of the insulation, and then poured finishing screed, to which you can also add insulation material. In order for the screed to be even, and there are no floor height differences in the room, it should be done on exposed construction level of beacons.

If desired, additional insulation can be made on such a coating. On the finished screed, you can lay wooden floors, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a "warm floor" system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing difficult in the construction of floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in last years it is being used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality homogeneous bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slags or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only easy to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. With a good distribution of bulk material over the area of the room, it almost does not shrink, therefore, with a conscientious performance of the work, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling loose mix

To keep the floors in shape, and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads from boards are installed.
On top of the dry screed, slabs of moisture-resistant GWP, plywood or others are laid sheet materials... The most important thing is to set the first plate perfectly evenly - this is done with the help of a level. The next boards to be laid will be aligned with the first. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but it must be moved very carefully over the surface. The evenness of the stacking of sheets during the entire operation is controlled using a level.

the greatest load

On gypsum fiber sheets have folds, with the help of which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
Sheets are stacked with an offset of half the sheet, by analogy with brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to the flooring of another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If the floor is used gypsum fiber sheets, then on the first layer a fold is cut off from them, so that they are tightly adjacent to each other and the bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with bottom c using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They are necessarily twisted under load - for this it is enough just to stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
Exactly along the line doorways it is not recommended to join the sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are arranged in a room where the humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with a coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is mounted quite easily, if you approach the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate- in terms of the timing of work, such technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

The arrangement of the floor in a private house makes the house livable, and the comfort of living depends on the quality of the work performed. In fact, the floor is the top layer of the overlap, which divides the house into zones - basement, living quarters, attic. If the house has several floors, then the essence of the floor does not change.

Types of floors

For wooden house it makes no sense to come up with any other solution besides the usual one - flooring along the floor beams, since it does two things at once - it raises the floor covering by required height, forming a basement, and insulates the floor from the effects of groundwater or flood waters. Floor beams are built into the frame of a wooden house immediately after the basement from concrete blocks, bricks, or at a height of 3-4 crowns from the ground surface, if the frame of the house is built entirely of wood.

The ends of the beams can be either hidden in the log block or pass through it. The latter option is considered more reliable, because any accumulated moisture will be removed through the end of the beam. The ends of the beam, fixed in the frame, are usually treated with antiseptic materials to prevent decay. If the length of the floor beam is more than three meters, then it is possible to install additional reinforcement in the form of beams placed on the end, columns made of bricks or solid wooden ridges. Wooden reinforcements, from the end that will abut against the ground, must be treated with antiseptic materials. Brick posts are erected on solid foundation, preferably small concrete slabs ah, ready-made or poured on their own, under which several layers of roofing material are placed for waterproofing.

For floor beams, it is best to use a material with a cut edge - a bar or a half-bar (a log with flat edges on both sides). The cross-section of the timber should be exactly the same as the cross-section of the main wall. After the installation of a reliable base, you can proceed with the installation of flooring. In general, good building practice assumes that the horizontal level formed by the floor beams is made immediately after the beams are cut into the walls of the log house. Therefore, in finished log house required minimal work for verification and final fit. If the floor beams are cut at a height of less than 50 centimeters from the ground, then in mandatory antiseptic treatment of all capital walls underground and floor beams. This will extend the life of the wooden house. The floor covering itself on wooden beams can be either single-layer or with a sub-floor plus topcoat... Two-layer floors are obviously warmer than single-layer floors.

For the installation of a subfloor, there is no need to use not only grooved lumber, but even edged timber. Ideally, floorboards should be seasoned in a sparse pile before being stacked for at least six months. This will prevent possible warping of the floor boards. If it is necessary to lay raw boards, then they are not immediately sewn with nails to the beams, but are pressed against them with boards nailed in three or four places. The boards are laid from the edges to the middle, and a 5-6 centimeters wide gap is left in the middle, into which wedges are driven. As the boards dry, the wedges weaken, they are gradually knocked out. This process lasts three months. The floorboards can then be nailed down firmly to the beams. The thickness of the subfloor boards must be at least 40 millimeters.

The finishing floor is laid across the subfloor planks. It is best if it is a well-dried sheet pile board. It will not be superfluous, especially in the kitchen, to lay sheets of roofing material between the subfloor and the final sheet. The sheet piling itself is beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, with good painting it can serve for decades. It is also an almost ideal base for all other types of coverings - linoleum, carpet, parquet, laminate. If it is laid undried, then they do the same with it as with the subfloor boards. A good sheet pile board can also serve as the base of a single-layer floor in small country houses, where winter residence is not expected.

Floor device on beams on support pillars

It makes sense to make a floor on beams on support pillars in houses built entirely of bricks, aerated concrete blocks or natural stone. This is due to the fact that wooden beams embedded in walls made of these materials rot very quickly, even if they are thoroughly antiseptic. For the device of the supports of the floor beams in the basement, the places for the construction of the support pillars are marked. The frequency of their installation depends on the cross-section of the floor beams. Usually the distance between the support posts is 1 meter, this facilitates the marking and is enough so that the laid beam does not bend.

Small depressions are dug in the marked places; it makes no sense to dig deeper than 50 centimeters. At the bottom of these depressions, which have the scientific name "pit", a layer of fine gravel is laid and carefully compacted, after which a layer is laid on it waterproofing material... Most often, you can limit yourself to pouring a certain amount of hot tar. Support pillars are laid out exclusively of red brick or wild stone... The best shape is a truncated pyramid with a wide base. Use sand-lime brick for these purposes or aerated concrete blocks just dangerous. You can use small concrete slabs that are used for laying out sidewalk paths, or fragments of concrete piles from construction.

Log beams

Support pillars are erected without a careful definition of the upper level, because this is almost impossible, but at least an approximate coincidence of levels must be observed. The laser level will be of great help in this. All leveling of the floor level is carried out after all the posts have been erected. The floor beams, along which the floor will creep, are first laid on the two extreme rows of pillars, and with the help of the building level, horizontalness is checked, first along the beam, then between the beams. The beams are leveled exclusively by placing wooden cushions on the posts.

The tops of the pillars should be covered with several layers of roofing material so as not to cause rotting in the tree when it comes into contact with a stone, and the cushions being placed are carefully antiseptic or smeared bituminous mastics... After the extreme support beams are aligned, put the middle one and adjust it to a certain level of the floor. Next, the beams are placed in each half and aligned between the extreme and middle beams. All support beams must not be in contact with stone walls, the distance between the end of the support beam and the wall must be at least 2 centimeters. Their ends should be carefully treated with an antiseptic, smeared with bitumen, in extreme cases, burned at the stake until the top layer is lightly charred. If it is impossible to use solid beams due to the large area of the room or the lack of good lumber, the joints of the beams must be on the same support pillar.

Since the device of support pillars with a height of more than 50 centimeters represents known difficulty, and, moreover, reduces their stability. Everything wooden parts structures from the basement side must be treated with antiseptics, and arranged in the walls small windows for airing. After the installation of the system of support beams, it is possible to lay the floor covering on them as it is done when installing the floor on wooden floor beams. However, it should be borne in mind that the floor, erected in this way, is low from the ground, so it is best to make it double, with a sub-floor and an upper one, made of dry tongue-and-groove boards.

The disadvantages of a floor erected in this way include the fact that it "lives" separately from the entire structure of the house, so even if the house is constantly inhabited, the stoves are heated and the underground is ventilated, such a floor can warp over time. In case it is unheated and non-residential premises, v winter time the skew of the floor covering will almost certainly occur. Floor arrangement in the house, and even with my own hands is a rather difficult and responsible task. However, if you have already found the mental strength to take on the construction of your house (even if it is small cottage), then you shouldn't have any problems with flooring. Most often, private wooden houses are equipped with wooden floors (parquet or grooved board), but there are exceptions, which we will talk about a little below. The device of floors in a wooden house can be done in several ways. One of these methods is the device of the floor on the support pillars.

Floor on support pillars

The floor on the support pillars is mounted only if the device of the floors in the log house does not provide for the laying of the load-bearing beams in the wall structure. In this case, the pole-mounted floor is "floating", ie. unrelated to load-bearing walls... Floor arrangement in country house on the support pillars is done as follows:

Before installing the support pillars, we excavate the soil from the underground space. The depth of the excavation must be at least 50 cm.
We fill up the formed cavity river sand, gravel or crushed stone.

Advice! We spill the backfill with water and carefully compact it with tampers. The backfill level after the completion of compaction should be at least 20 cm higher than the ground level around the house.

Floor Beam System on Support Pillars

Then we proceed to the installation of the support pillars. For supporting pillars, it is preferable to use red brick (rather than silicate). The cross-section of the support pillars directly depends on their design height: the higher the pillar, the larger the cross-section is required to provide a sufficient level of stability. Brick support pillars up to 250 mm high are laid "in one and a half bricks", with a height of 250 mm or more - "in two bricks".

Installation of concrete support pillars is also possible. In this case, the dimensions of the support pillars are in the range from 400x400 to 500x500mm.

System of floor beams on support pillars

Then we install the support pillars inside the house. The installation pitch of the internal support pillars should be 70-100 cm, depending on what kind of constructive floor solution you are going to use.

An option is possible in which the device of floors in country house does not provide for the installation of internal support pillars. In this case, to ensure sufficient strength of the floor, it is necessary to use beams of the appropriate section.

We put waterproofing on the ends of the support pillars (most often - 2-3 layers of roofing material).

Plank floor

On top of the waterproofing, we lay load-bearing beams made of solid pieces of log or timber. In the event that the use of solid beams is not possible, we position the beams in such a way that we align the beams in level using wedges and wooden spacers. After all the beams are level, we fix the position of the wedges and spacers with nails. Once the joists are in place, a sub-floor can be laid on them.

The device of the floor in the country house in the above way is impractical if in the cold season the house remains without heating for a long time. In such conditions, the soil under the house freezes, which over time leads to an unpredictable displacement of the support pillars. To avoid this, the maximum increase in the level of the bedding is applied, as well as the use of coarse gravel in the upper layer of the bedding.

Single plank floor

The device of floors in the country sometimes requires that the floor be as simple as possible, both in manufacture and in operation. In this case, the simplest single plank floor is equipped in the country house. If you plan to live in a country house in the cold season, it is better to spend time and make a double floor or a floor with insulation. A single plank floor is made as follows:

Single floor boards are laid on the support beams or on the logs laid on top of the beams. If the structure of the house provides for the embedding of beams into the walls, then laying the lag is mandatory, since in this case the distance between the beams will be too large.

If the plank floor is equipped with support pillars, then it is possible to lay the support beams immediately, taking into account the requirements of the floor. Moreover, if the distance between the support pillars is 80 cm, beams of 100x100mm can be laid. For posts, the distance between which is 1 meter or more, beams 120x120mm are used.

If the joist system meets these requirements, the tongue-and-groove floor can be laid directly on top of the joists. If not, you need to equip a grid of wooden logs.

Lags represent wooden beams section 50x50 or 60x60mm. The distance between the joists laid on top of the support beams is determined by the width of the boards from which the floor is planned to be laid.

So, if a 28 mm thick grooved board is used for flooring, we lay the logs in 50 cm increments, with a board thickness of 38 mm, the distance between the logs can be increased to 60 cm. After the logs are laid out on the beam base, using wooden wedges and gaskets, we level the entire log system, and then fix it securely with nails. On top of the lag of a single floor made of grooved (if the floor is planned, as a finishing one) or unedged (for a subfloor) boards. Once the floor has been laid, you can start laying the floor covering. The best option in this case, there will be a linoleum flooring device, as an inexpensive and practical material... If we plan to use the plank floor as a finishing one, then it should be cycled, and then varnished one or several times. In the above-described way, a sub-floor is most often made in a wooden house with minimum costs time and money. However, such savings have a negative effect on thermal insulation characteristics floor. Therefore, it is still better to equip a double floor.

Double plank floor

Floor device in frame house in two layers is produced if you plan to live in it not only in the summer, but also in the cold season. A double floor includes a sub-floor of slab or uncut boards and a final floor of grooved boards. When arranging a double floor, we stuff the so-called cranial bars on the beams and lay the subfloor on them. So how does a double floor fit in?

A tile floor can be laid on a wooden base.

We make the subfloor from boards, the thickness of which can be from 15 to 45 mm. In order to save money for arranging the subfloor, you can use a low-grade board, a slab, unedged board... Note! Sub-floor is laid exclusively from planks conifers! We fit the subfloor boards tightly to each other. It is best if the boards are treated with an antiseptic before laying. After laying the subfloor, cover it with a layer insulation material... One of the time-tested options for insulating a subfloor is to cover it with a layer of a mixture of clay and sawdust. The mixture is applied in a layer of 30-50 mm.

Expanded clay is also used as bulk insulation for a double floor. The expanded clay layer during backfill should be within 5-10 cm, however, it should be borne in mind that the gap between the thermal insulation layer and the finished floor should be at least 10-15 mm. After laying or backfilling of heat-insulating materials, we lay a finishing floor made of grooved boards over the subfloor. If floor insulation is not enough, it is also possible to install a warm floor in a wooden house. At the same time, most often the choice is stopped on electric warm floors, since equipping a water floor system in a house with wooden ceilings is a rather difficult task. We fasten boards to logs or cranial bars with nails. We hammer in nails at a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the board on each side, at an angle of 35-400.

In addition to the tongue-and-groove floor, it is also possible to install a parquet floor. Naturally, in this case, appropriate adjustments will have to be made to the laying technology. And this is the floor scraping. If it is necessary to deepen the caps. To do this, we attach a metal finish to the head of the nail and, with a hammer blow, deepen the head by 2-3 mm. To ensure ventilation of the underground space in the corners of the room, we make holes with a diameter of 50-60 mm. We close the holes decorative grilles raised above the floor level by 15-20 mm in order to avoid the ingress of liquid into the subfloor. For better ventilation underground space, in addition to vents in the floor, it is necessary to leave (or make) ventilation holes in the basement. However, in different rooms laying the floor has its own nuances:

Basement flooring implies, first of all, high-quality waterproofing. After all, it is the basement floor that is most susceptible to the influence of groundwater. In the basements of private houses, earthen or concrete floors are equipped. However, if you plan to use the basement not only as a warehouse or technical room (for example, a generator room), but as living room, it is better, of course, to lay a wooden floor here with a good layer of insulation, or even heating.
Concrete floors are also one of the most common types of garage flooring. The technology of the device of self-leveling concrete floors allows you to quickly and efficiently equip a floor that is resistant to mechanical stress. In addition, after being treated with modern impregnations, the concrete acquires a rather presentable appearance.
Also, if you have a marble or granite chips, it is possible to install mosaic floors in the garage. According to their operational characteristics they are not much inferior concrete floors, but in appearance they are much superior.
In the corridor or in the kitchen, a self-leveling polyurethane floor, or rather, its decorative varieties, will be appropriate. Also, in these rooms, you can tiled the floor with tiles - traditional tiled, porcelain stoneware or made of natural stone.

Tiled floor. The classic version the bathroom floor is finished with ceramic tiles. Naturally, when laying tiles in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the features wooden base, and very carefully carry out the work related to waterproofing.

In addition to tiles, a moisture-resistant laminate can be installed on the bathroom floor in your home.

The installation of a floor on a balcony, especially on an open one, implies the use of floor coverings that are resistant to weathering. In such conditions, impregnated deck boards, as well as tiles, primarily clinker tiles, show themselves well.

As you can see, the technology of installing wooden floors in a private house, although it is quite complex, is still available for development. Therefore, armed necessary tool and having acquired the necessary knowledge base, feel free to get down to work. And we are sure that very soon you will be walking on the self-paved floor in your home. It's worth the effort, isn't it?

In the age of industrialization, when our lives were filled with artificial polymer materials, many dream of natural simplicity and harmony. This is why flooring in a private house is usually immediately associated with a wooden floor. Indeed, in the interior country house it looks especially beautiful.

Advantages of wooden floors in a country house

They are environmentally friendly and do not emit harmful fumes during operation.
Easy to finish - wood allows you to get a variety of interesting solutions from the standpoint of interior design.
Durable, easy to repair without the use of special tools.
A wooden floor is a source of coziness and comfort.

Floor structure in a country house

The construction of the floor is quite complex, and they are arranged according to the same principle as the roof. What we see is just a finishing coating, under which a multi-layer "filling" is hidden. For each specific case, the device of floors in a country house depends on the characteristics of the supporting base (soil or floor), the purpose of the room and a number of other conditions. Although their structure can be divided into common components.

Underlying layer... Functionally perceives the operational load, created by the coating, and transfers to walls or distributes evenly over the substrate. For floors on the ground, its dense preparation is carried out; with a floor slab, this role is played by a floor slab.

Screed. Evens out the underlying layer and gives, if necessary, the required slope, covers communications.

Interlayer. Binds the screed and covering.

Insulating layers... Hydro-, sound- or heat-insulating are located, depending on the function, under or above the screed.

What should be the floor

A competent floor arrangement in a private house should provide him with:

strength, good resistance to shock loads and abrasion;
high thermal insulation properties if you intend to use it all year round;
good soundproofing characteristics;
waterproof and waterproof for wet rooms etc.

Installation of a wooden floor on the first floor

The supporting base for the floor of the first floor can be:

priming;
beams or floor slabs.

Base primer

Doesn't require particularly large expenses. Usually it is performed on lags. The main issue that requires a priority solution is to ensure the dryness of the base. It should be located 12-15 cm higher than the blind area. To do this, a layer of compacted soil is laid in place of the cut sod, into which crushed stone or gravel is then tamped, a layer of 4–5 cm. The preparation of the base is continued by laying an underlying layer of slag, chipped brick or stone. All layers are then compacted and leveled.

After preparing the base with a step of 0.8-1.0 m, install on it brick posts(height 2-3 pieces). On top of them, the insulation of antiseptic materials is laid, say, from roofing material, and on top of it, respectively, lags. The planed boards are fixed to the logs using nails or self-tapping screws.

Floors on soil base can be insulated if necessary. Traditionally, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is used for thermal insulation. The layer of insulation is then covered with a reinforced concrete screed. Completing the flooring on the ground, laying the floor covering on the screed.

As you know, in the spring groundwater they rise quite high, therefore, when arranging floors on the ground, their level must be taken into account.

I would like to warn against this type of flooring for those who are going to live in the house only in the summer, since it is possible that the soil under the floors will freeze and deform strongly in winter. This is perhaps the only exception - nothing interferes with such a flooring arrangement.

Base - overlap

When overlapping made of concrete slabs, for flooring, use typical schemes used for city apartments. In the case of beamed ceilings, the technology will depend on the way the beams are supported: against the walls or on the supporting pillars.

Overlapping device

In a joist floor, the supporting structure consists of beams spaced at a specific pitch. V suburban construction wooden ones are more common.

However, it should be noted that there are certain restrictions for them:

span width for interfloor floors should not be more than 5 m;
for attic - no more than 6 m.

The material for them is often coniferous wooden beams. The sub-floor will be the flooring made on their upper side. The floor structure includes:

beams,
roll forward,
insulation.

Beams are processed before installation antiseptic agents... Their beveled ends are led into a special nest,
prepared even during the erection of the walls, without bringing to the outside 2–3 cm. When supporting the beams against a wall of stone or concrete, their ends are wrapped with a double layer of roofing material.

Roll forward. On the side faces of each beam, bars with a square section of 4x4 or 5x5 are nailed, they are called cranial. It is on them that the roll of shields assembled from transverse or longitudinal boards is attached, tightly pressing the plates against each other. Fasteners are made with self-tapping screws.

Insulation. Between the beams, first lay, bending over them by 5 cm, a layer of glassine, roofing or vapor barrier film, then thermal insulation. For interfloor overlap the height of the insulating layer must be at least 10 cm, for attic floor- 20-25 cm.

Floating floors

The floors got this name, since the beams in this case are not incorporated into the structure of the building, that is, they are not actually connected to the walls.
Work begins with the laying of support pillars.

Soil is removed from the underground room to a depth of about 0.5 m. The excavated space is filled with a building layer: gravel, sand or crushed stone. The layer is tamped, carefully pouring water several times. Its upper level should be 20 cm higher than the ground level.
Support pillars made of concrete or brick are installed along the perimeter of the resulting base, then also supports inside the house with a step of 0.7-1.0 m.
A moisture-proof material is laid on the pillars and beams are installed on top of it. The tightness to the posts is adjusted using wooden wedges and spacers.

Despite the clear advantages of living in own home not everyone dares to exchange a comfortable apartment for him. The main reason for this choice is the fear of the need for constant maintenance of the building, site and communications. V multi-storey buildings most of this work is done by utilities, while in the private sector the responsibility rests entirely with the owner. And only a few are capable of undertaking independent construction. If you decide to take such a crucial step, not being a professional builder, you need to take every stage of this difficult business with full responsibility. In this article, we will figure out how to properly arrange the floors in a private house. It is not about the decorative coating, but about the choice of the floor structure, its correct waterproofing and insulation.

The choice of material for the device of the base

Quite often, wood is used for flooring in private housing construction. This is due not only to a long tradition, but also to practical considerations. This material has several undeniable advantages:

Durability;
Environmental friendliness;
Maintainability;
Low thermal conductivity;
Relative ease of installation.

Having settled on this option, it is important to choose the right wood. There are several criteria that the raw material must meet in order for the floor to be strong, durable and warm:

First of all, you need to pay attention to the type of wood. It is best to arrange wooden floors in a private house made of oak or ash - this floor will be the most durable. However, the cost of such material is quite high and not everyone can afford it. Coniferous trees, such as larch, pine, spruce, cedar and fir, also performed well.
Boards and planks must be dry. Their moisture content cannot exceed 12%. Otherwise, during operation, they may be led.

The wood should not have cracks and chips, and to protect it from insects it is treated with antiseptics

Despite all the advantages of wood, many people prefer to equip a concrete floor. Most often, this choice is due to the durability of the material. Choosing this method, it is important to make sure of the quality of the concrete and to strictly follow the technology of the work.

Possible designs

First of all, you need to choose the type of construction for your floor. This choice depends on how you plan to operate the building. So, for country house, which will be used only in summer, a single plank floor is enough, and for a full-fledged residential building where you plan to live permanently, you need to choose a well-insulated option.

Option number 1 - single plank floor

This is the easiest flooring option in execution and operation. It is only suitable for summer buildings or housing in regions with a warm climate. If the project of the house provides for the embedding of floor beams into the walls, then the width between them, as a rule, is too large in order to immediately lay the boards. To ensure the required strength of the floor, you need to lay logs - wooden beams. If you plan to install a floor on support posts, you can immediately place the beams at the required distance from each other and do without additional costs for logs.

The distance between the lags depends on the thickness of the floorboard. So, if you plan to use a 38 mm thick grooved board, the distance between the logs can be 60-70 cm.If the board is 28 mm thick, you need to lay the logs more often - at a distance of half a meter from each other

So, we lay logs on the supporting beams and set them in level using wooden spacers and wedges. After making sure that all the beams are on the same level, we fasten them to the beams with nails, and then we nail the boards to them.

Option number 2 - double plank floor

This version of the floor device will require significantly more costs and efforts, but it can greatly reduce heat loss. It is recommended to make a rough draft from coniferous wood. In order to save money, you can use an unedged board or a slab here.

As a rule, I lay a layer between the rough and final floor thermal insulation material... For these purposes, expanded clay or a mixture of clay with sawdust or straw. Of course, you can use and modern materials- Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene foam. On top of the insulating material, a finishing floor is laid from a grooved board.

Option number 3 - concrete floor

The device of a concrete floor in a private house is divided into several stages:

First you need to make a markup. The easiest way is to use a laser level for these purposes. It is installed at the bottom of the doorway and marks are made on the walls. This will be the level of the future floor. To mark the level in the center of the room, nails are driven into the walls according to the markings and thin ropes are pulled.
Now we proceed to the organization of gravel filling. This layer will serve as thermal insulation for your floor. We level the soil and clean it of debris. Then we drive in the pegs, each of which must be below the level of the future concrete screed by 10cm. We start filling from the wall of the opposite door. When the entire area is filled up, we level and tamp the gravel flush with the pegs and remove the latter.
Then you need to pour a layer of sand, tamp it and smooth the surface.
Of great importance is correct waterproofing floors, in a private house, the concrete floor is most often protected from moisture using a polyethylene lash with a thickness of at least 250 microns.
Now you can start filling. First, by level, we will install beacons from wooden slats at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other. It is necessary to do this so that the top edge of the rail touches the stretched rope. After that, the markings from the ropes can be removed.
Fill the space between the two slats with concrete, starting from the far wall. Then, as a rule, we level it and remove the excess.

Important! For high-quality waterproofing, polyethylene should go 10-15 cm on the walls, that is, above the level of the concrete screed. In addition, if the width of the polyethylene sheet is less than the width of the room, and you are using several strips, carefully join them together using construction tape.

Pouring a concrete floor on expanded clay. The rule for leveling can be any even rail, slightly longer than the distance between the guides.

When the concrete "grasps", it is necessary to remove the slats, and fill the voids with mortar and level them with a "trowel" for plaster. Now cover the floor with polyethylene and leave it for 3-4 weeks. It is advisable to remove the film every few days and moisten the concrete. This will allow the material to gain maximum strength.

Subtleties of the device "warm floor"

Do not forget about such a novelty as warm floors, because in a private house the installation of such a heating system is most justified. This is especially true when the room is not heated by radiators, but with the help of pipes with a coolant located under the floor surface. It should be noted that heating in a building with a wooden floor is very problematic and not very efficient. This is due to the low thermal conductivity of wood. But it allows you to successfully use it.

If you still intend to equip a warm floor in a wooden house, use an electric or infrared system.

Whichever flooring option you choose for your home, remember that it is important to follow the technology exactly and not save on materials, even after finishing works they will not be visible. In case of poor-quality work on the construction of the subfloor or its thermal and waterproofing, even the most expensive decorative coating will soon become unusable.