Insulation of the facade of an apartment building with polystyrene foam. Technology of facade insulation with expanded polystyrene. Glue preparation

Construction own house do-it-yourself requires not only financial investments, but also certain knowledge on a variety of materials, tools, technologies. After the construction of the walls of a building made of bricks or blocks, it becomes necessary to insulate them. One of the best options in terms of price / quality ratio of the material is the insulation of the facade with expanded polystyrene from the outside.

External thermal insulation of the walls of a residential building provides:

maintaining the level of heat inside the room from the heating source,
reduction in heating costs,
a comfortable stay in the house at any time of the year: warm in winter, pleasantly cool in summer.

It is important to know

Wall decoration with insulation from the outside does not change dimensions interior rooms and the total usable area of the house.

Material selection and characteristics

Manufacturers today produce various types of expanded polystyrene in terms of plate sizes and characteristics. For outdoor work, it is recommended to choose boards with a density of at least 25 kg per unit volume. It is also desirable that the material be treated with a special flame retardant impregnation to increase its fire safety. The video below explains how to determine the density of Styrofoam.

It is important to note that the insulation of walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene is not used for facades. wooden houses(from a bar, frame-panel). Since wood must breathe, other types of insulation are used - for example, mineral wool.

The insulation in the plates may not have a smooth, but a corrugated surface, which is very convenient in the process of gluing them to the walls. Deep grooves stand out along the edges of the plates - for a tighter connection and the formation of strong, less noticeable joints. Such expanded polystyrene is more expensive than usual, but with it it is easier to do the installation yourself with your own hands, and the decoration of the house will be of better quality. The thickness of the insulation is selected depending on climatic features location of a residential building.

Important advantages of using expanded polystyrene for insulation:

combination of properties of high thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, durability at an affordable cost of the material,
due to the low weight of the insulation, there is no need to install an additional frame for its fastening.

useful at work

Before purchasing expanded polystyrene, examine the manufacturer's certificates and documents to make sure that the insulation meets regulatory requirements.

Installation steps

Do-it-yourself polystyrene foam insulation technology is quite simple, but there is technical features and nuances that are mandatory for execution, including the sequence of actions itself.

Preparation of facade surfaces

The first and main stage, affecting the overall final result of the work on the thermal insulation of the house. The walls must be leveled, cleaned of old paint or coverage. Cracks or depressions are sealed with putty, special facade solutions, protrusions and other defects are cleaned. A difference on the surface of no more than 1 - 1.5 cm is allowed. Next, a primer is applied to the walls with a roller or brush in 1 - 2 layers. Use a primer designed for facade works, with good moisture protection and antiseptic properties.

Do-it-yourself insulation finishing at home above one floor is recommended with the installation of scaffolding. They are fixed at some distance from the building, making it possible to carry out the entire range of insulation work. Or you can resort to the help of climbers.

Fastening of expanded polystyrene boards

The insulation is laid from the bottom up. First, a starting profile is fixed around the entire perimeter of the bottom row - it will serve as a support for the plates, and will not allow them to move. From him, experienced professionals recommend marking by level and drawing it with chalk on the wall of the house. Expanded polystyrene is glued to the facade using a special adhesive composition with an offset relative to the previous row of plates. Excess glue is removed, and large gaps and gaps between the plates are filled with a special adhesive foam for working with expanded polystyrene. It will take 3-4 days for the glue to dry completely.

After the insulation is fixed with plastic dowels-umbrellas at the joints and in the center of the plates. Again applied to the entire surface of the walls adhesive composition.

Advice from the "facade"

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam for the first time, start with the least noticeable of the walls of the house. The technology of the process will eventually be error-free due to multiple repetitions.

Mesh wall reinforcement

To give strength to the insulation, it is reinforced with a mesh and corners at the corners, slopes, openings of the house. A mounting solution is abundantly applied over the fixed polystyrene foam, in which the mesh is sunk. Since the mixture sets quickly, the work is carried out sequentially in sections horizontally and with a slight overlap of the mesh.
Then all surfaces are covered with a second layer of adhesive mixture. Additionally, after a couple of days, you can once again finally prime all the facades with your own hands for painting.

Final works

The facade insulation technology is completed by plastering and painting the walls. Select such materials according to their characteristics so that they are intended for outdoor decoration - withstand the conditions external environment: frost resistance, moisture resistance and color protection from ultraviolet.

Expanded polystyrene insulation forms an almost completely flat surface for finishing. For her, any design ideas for the design and decoration of textured, relief plasters or a combination of contrasting shades of facade paints.

Insulating walls from the outside with polystyrene foam without the help of specialists, with your own hands, requires clear planning for the cost of materials and time. A few more helpful tips:

Insulation cannot be stored for a long time under a direct hit. sun rays, rain and snow.
It is desirable to carry out the installation process at a temperature of +5 to +25°C and an air humidity of no more than 80%.
Try to work continuously on one wall, especially with adhesives and plasters (gluing, reinforcing and finishing).
Installing the starting profile for the insulation prevents not only the displacement of the plates, but also blocks the access to them of small rodents that can damage it.
When painting the facade, it is advisable to use masking tape and plastic film to protect certain surfaces.
Select related materials and accessories responsibly. In no case do not replace mixtures for outdoor work with other analogues (for other types of insulation or internal surfaces). Such changes, perhaps, will give insignificant financial savings, and in the future they can lead to destruction and re-repair of the house with their own hands. When working with certain compounds and materials for the first time, do not be too lazy to study the instructions for their use.
For a better understanding of installation technology wet facade using foam, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with this video:

Do-it-yourself insulation technology with polystyrene foam ultimately forms a multilayer protection for the house, helps to keep the heat inside it.

In order to reduce the cost of heating and air conditioning residential premises, their owners often decide to take measures to insulate the facade of the house from the outside with foam. The modern market offers a huge number of options, one of which is the thermal insulation of the facade plane using polystyrene foam - expanded polystyrene (EPS) or its extruded counterpart (EPS). Despite the apparent complexity, you can do it yourself. To do this, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the technology of mounting the material. Detailed algorithm action is shown below.

Varieties of foams

The building materials market is saturated with many different brands. Essentially, they all represent one of the following subspecies of insulation:

expanded polystyrene foam;
ordinary polystyrene, known as polystyrene;
expanded polystyrene with graphite additives.

Expert opinion

Konstantin Alexandrovich

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For facade insulation any of them is suitable, but you need to know the features of each type of heat insulator.

The main feature of foam plastics is the structure in the form of cells different size. Due to the peculiarities of the production technology of each of them, the varieties have one or another list of advantages and disadvantages. For example, polystyrene foam has cells open type. It will have better vapor permeability, but its soundproofing properties will not be up to par. Another disadvantage is the high degree of combustibility of raw materials (group G4).

Expanded polystyrene is different closed system cells, perfectly isolates the home from extraneous sounds, but the level of its vapor permeability is much lower. The material belongs to normally combustible (G3 group).

Expanded polystyrene with graphite content also has a closed cell structure. In addition to graphite, it contains particles of silver, which gives the insulation high rates of heat retention, and allows this material for construction to be classified as moderately combustible (G2). In comparison with the polystyrene foam familiar to us, graphite-containing raw materials have a black color with a silvery tint throughout the mass of the material. Styrofoam usually attracts rodents, but given type resistant to them. Foamed polystyrenes, as well as material containing graphite, contain special flame retardant additives that prevent it from supporting the combustion process.

The foam plastics themselves used for facade insulation are materials formed without pressing. During combustion, they are able to emit gases of a high degree of toxicity, and also tend to absorb significant amount moisture. This article does not consider such materials.

The list of advantages of expanded polystyrene:

significant service life;
small mass;
high strength indicators;
excellent heat-saving qualities;
possibility of application in a wide range of temperatures -50 - +75 degrees;
increased resistance to the formation of chemical compounds;
high level environmental friendliness.

List of the main disadvantages of polystyrene foam:

The choice of the type of foam used for facade insulation work lies entirely with the owner of the home. But if you try to find a balance between the quality of the goods and its cost, the leadership will be for expanded polystyrene with graphite filling. Its price is lower than that of extruded material, while it has best performance than raw materials without additional additives.

When the material is selected and everything is ready for work, it remains only to install the wooden platform, after which you can begin the process of installing foam plates with its subsequent plastering. It has its own nuances, some of which are presented for review below.

Detailed instructions for do-it-yourself foam insulation

For getting good result the material is first glued to the wall, and then additionally fixed. The gluing process is carried out in the direction from bottom to top and from left to right. If the object of insulation is a private house, the tide structure can serve as a support for the bottom row. If thermal insulation is carried out in a residential building with a large number of apartments, then you can not do without starting bar. Without taking into account this nuance, the likelihood of the foam slipping down is high.

Necessary tools and materials

To properly carry out the process of gluing polystyrene foam, you will need a pair of spatulas - narrow and wide. The first will serve for a set of glue from the container, the second - for its uniform application to the surface. The material will most likely require trimming, then a fine-toothed saw will come in handy.

In addition to the tools themselves, it is necessary to purchase a special glue suitable for working with polystyrene plates.

It is of two types:

From the point of view of benefits, it would be more expedient to purchase two different kind glue, since the universal composition is not low cost. Ordinary glue is also suitable for other operations:

List of works for the production of which you need a universal composition:

attaching reinforcing mesh to walls, corners and slopes;
creating a leveling layer.

The consumption level of the two types of composition is approximately the same and is in the range from 4 to 6 kg per square meter surfaces. Work on smooth walls may reduce this figure, since the required adhesive layer will be thinner. The level of consumption for creating a leveling layer on top of the reinforcing mesh will directly depend on the quality of the installation of polystyrene boards.

To carry out the next stage of work, namely, fixing the insulation boards, you will need the so-called "fungi". This special kind dowels of a special shape, they have an elongated leg and a flat cap large diameter. Dowel-nails made of metal or plastic are inserted into them. When working with polystyrene foam, it is recommended to give preference plastic products. They do not create cold bridges, do not corrode and do not give additional load to the surface of the facade.

Installation of "fungi" is carried out with a hammer and a drill. To apply the grid and the leveling layer, prepare a wide spatula - at least 300 mm. Grinding this layer will help sandpaper with a large grain and a plastic grater.

Technique for attaching polystyrene foam to the wall surface

First, the adhesive composition is diluted in accordance with the recommendations of the mixture manufacturer. It is convenient to use a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle for this purpose. It is permissible if the density of the composition slightly exceeds the normative indicators, for the convenience of work. If there are irregularities on the walls, glue is smeared directly on it. This allows you to correct existing flaws - notches and bulges. If the bulge is very pronounced, you can make a recess in the sheet of material for insulation. But keep in mind that this method is not suitable for extruded polystyrene foam.

The adhesive solution is laid in fragments, the number of which is up to 10 per sheet. In addition, along the perimeter of the material plate, a roller is formed from the adhesive mixture, at a distance of several centimeters from its edge. Try to spread the composition over the surface as best and evenly as possible. Excess glue can crawl out under other fragments of the insulation, this will not be bad for the strength of the connection. Excess compound in the area of the seams will need to be removed in order for the surface to remain more even. There is another application technique, but it is only suitable for walls that are close to ideal, where there are no pronounced differences. The glue is applied to the plate, then leveled with a special spatula with teeth.

When starting to lay out the second row, the insulation blocks must be positioned in such a way as to avoid joining the seams. The principle of masonry here is similar to brick. The same principle of operation applies to all subsequent rows. Complete drying of the glue occurs after three days, at which time you can do work on other parts of the wall.

A few tips for your convenience. When insulating a private house with foam, it is necessary to paste over sections of walls that are large in area. Some work can be done at the level of your height, for others you will have to build a scaffold. It is not easy to move them, so it is better to break the front of work into sections. When one of them is completely finished (insulation is attached and a leveling layer is applied), you can proceed to the next one. At this method work has another advantage - the time of contact of expanded polystyrene with ultraviolet, which negatively affects the insulation, is reduced.

Leveling the foam-insulated surface

The glued foam fragments must be flat surface. All existing irregularities require careful grinding with emery or a special grater. You can start grinding no earlier than three days after gluing the plates.

Styrofoam nailing (EPS)

After the glue has completely dried, you can proceed with the installation of additional fasteners. It is better to choose a more expensive fastener, it has greater rigidity, and it is easier to hammer it. The length of the "fungus" should exceed the thickness of the insulation plate by 4-5 centimeters.

To fix one insulation plate, 5-6 fasteners are needed. To accommodate them, holes are made in selected places, they should be a few millimeters longer than the dowel legs. One of the fasteners is placed in the center of the slab, a few more are closer to the edges, in the area of the joints of the slabs. This technique allows not only to better fix the insulator, but also to make the wall more even by tightening its corners.

The fungus is first inserted into the hole, then tightly hammered. The hat should tightly fix the insulation. If it was not possible to achieve a fit, then the latch must be removed and the hole deepened. It is necessary to check whether the drill has worn off. In the process of work, it wears out and decreases in diameter. In this case, you will have to replace it.

The cap of the clogged fungus should be about 1 millimeter recessed into the foam. This technique will avoid excessive consumption of glue for the arrangement of the leveling layer. Fasteners are hammered into the foam plastic without difficulty; when working with extruded polystyrene foam, more effort will have to be made.

Double layer of insulation

When it is necessary to lay a layer of insulation over 50 millimeters, but less than 100 millimeters, the insulation is made two-layer. First, the first layer is fixed, then sheets of the second are mounted on top of it. Layer joints must not overlap. When arranging the second layer, it is more convenient to apply glue not on the wall, but on the sheet itself. Processing of the joints of the first layer is not required, because. they will be covered.

It is better to apply a second coat of insulator after the first has completely dried. If this is not possible, a second layer can be applied, but the height should not exceed 2 meters. Otherwise, fragments of insulation may move. Fixation on fungi is carried out as the adhesive layer dries. The calculation of the required length of the latch is made according to the following formula: the thickness of the insulation sheet + 1 cm for the adhesive layer + 4 or 5 cm for immersion in the wall.

Hole under fastener should be a couple of centimeters longer than the fungus itself, and the diameters should match. After fixing the foam to the wall surface, you can proceed to next step works.

Sealing of attachment points and joints

First, the area of \u200b\u200bthe facade pasted over with insulation is leveled. The protruding edges of the foam can be trimmed with a wallpaper or clerical knife. Smaller flaws are easily removed with a foam grater. This work is quite painstaking, but it helps to reduce the cost of purchasing expensive materials for subsequent finishing. To prevent cold air from penetrating between the plates, the seams are carefully rubbed. The work is carried out with a spatula, which is applied with an adhesive composition, the same one that was used for gluing the foam. Small seams are rubbed only with glue, and larger ones will require laying narrow strips of foam, followed by grouting. You can also use mounting foam for filling seams. After 4 or 5 hours, the excess foam can be cut off and also rubbed with glue. The recessed caps of the fasteners are also filled with glue so that the entire surface of the wall is even.

Grouting should be done as carefully as possible, the wall should become more even, without protruding sections of glue. Do not forget that grouting can only be done after the glue has completely dried, otherwise the sandpaper will quickly clog and require replacement.

Preparation of adhesive solution for reinforcing the insulator

To apply a reinforcing layer consisting of fiberglass mesh, you need to use a special adhesive composition that is designed specifically for working with foam. The powder is mixed with the required amount of water and stirred with a stirrer attached to a drill. Turnovers select low. The mass "rests" for about 10 minutes, then mixes again. During operation, mixing should be done every half hour. The solution is suitable for work within 2.5 - 3 hours.

Water cannot be added to the already prepared solution. The consistency will improve, but the properties will become worse.

Applying adhesive to foam

The thickness of the adhesive layer should be about 3 mm and be continuous. It is convenient to apply glue with a spatula with teeth, the size of which is from 10 to 12 millimeters. Apply it better stripes vertical orientation, the width of which is equal to the fragments of the fiberglass mesh.

"Sinking" a layer of fiberglass mesh

After the adhesive solution is applied to the wall, a fiberglass mesh is embedded in it. They do this in the direction from top to bottom, trying to achieve uniform tension over the entire plane, avoiding distortions and waves. The grid should be approximately in the middle of the thickness of the adhesive, this position will ensure its best functioning. Attaching it to umbrellas is a gross mistake. If the plunge is too shallow or deep, the fiberglass may distort its geometry and crack. For one grid, the thickness of the adhesive layer fluctuates at the level of 3-5 millimeters.

When laying the mesh in the fixing layer, it is necessary to provide for the presence of horizontal and vertical overlaps of at least 10 centimeters. In places of corners, slopes and window sills, the grid is shifted to the adjacent section of the wall by approximately 15 centimeters. If there is a danger of mechanical damage to the wall, two layers of glass mesh are laid at the level of the height of the walls of the lower floor of the building. The second layer is applied only after the first has completely dried. The total thickness of the layer thus arranged will be from 6 to 8 millimeters.

The laid mesh must be carefully puttied so that the surface irregularities are smoothed as much as possible and do not spoil appearance finished facade. Good polishing effect sandpaper. The work is carried out on a solution that has not yet hardened.

Applying primer paint

If you do not wait for the complete drying of the reinforcement, the degree of its adhesion to the wall will be reduced. When the reinforcing layer dries out, and this will happen after about 3 days, you can apply a special primer paint. Please note that for painting you need to wait for favorable weather conditions:

The application of the primer can be done both with a brush and a roller, in a uniform layer. It is not recommended to dilute the product, it will negatively affect its properties.

Application of textured plaster with subsequent painting

For finishing, it is possible to use plaster for the facade with subsequent painting, or to use an already tinted solution. Applicable decorative plaster such as "bark beetle", "lamb", etc.

Application method plaster mortar will depend on its type.

Care and maintenance of the facade

The rules for the maintenance and repair of such a facade do not differ from ordinary facades treated with paint. The main thing is to choose solutions that are identical in composition, then you can simply apply a new layer of paint on top of the previous one.

Finally

It is difficult to argue with the statement that insulation is a necessity for every home. Any homeowner will be able to perform these works on their own, having carefully familiarized themselves with the technology of their production.

Be serious about the choice of materials for construction. Pay attention to their compatibility with each other, it is better to give preference to components released under the same brand. Giants construction industry produce insulation systems that provide high-quality thermal insulation of residential premises on long years. This also applies to systems for independent facade insulation using expanded polystyrene.

Video on insulation of the facade with foam

Well, it's time to start preparing for winter. Not only the increase in heating prices, but also the outdated facade, prompted me to think about insulating my house. Over time, the walls lose their ability to retain heat and need to be finished. One of the most popular methods is the insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam, it is convenient, simple and, moreover, relatively inexpensive. Installation technology allows you to do all the work yourself, and the use decorative items from expanded polystyrene, to give the house an individual appearance.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Material and its qualities

Facade insulation with extruded polystyrene does not differ from the installation method of conventional polystyrene, however, their characteristics and production technology are different. Its main advantage is its light weight. Thanks to him, all the work can be done by hand without the involvement of additional help.

Styrofoam

In addition, it has a large number of positive properties:

The price is much lower than other materials. Facade insulation with polystyrene foam will cost about three times cheaper
Minimum thermal conductivity, due to which heat transfer interior with the street will be much lower
Good moisture resistance
No need for additional vapor barrier, has a high vapor permeability
Not rotting
It is easy to insulate with polystyrene foam

Panels will help not only to insulate, but also to ennoble the exterior of the building.

Despite all his positive traits I also found a few downsides:

Styrofoam is not fire resistant. Emits acrid smoke when burned and becomes toxic
May be spoiled by small rodents

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is made of different subspecies, it is extruded that is best used during home insulation. It was important for me to insulate the facade well, and then give it a noble look.

Important! I carried out all the work in warm weather - this is very important, because the use of glue is unacceptable at temperatures below +5 degrees.

Even while searching for a material for facade insulation, I came across decorative elements made of expanded polystyrene. Facade decor from expanded polystyrene seemed to me very interesting and quite individual. It was possible to pick up any element that is suitable for my home. The installation technology is very simple, and due to the low weight there is no unnecessary load on the foundation.

Sequencing

The technology of the insulation process is simple, but it requires the necessary sequence and precise execution of all installation elements. As with any insulation, you need to prepare the surface of the wall. The walls of my house did not have large holes and bulges, so I only went over the facade with sandpaper and removed excess dirt.

Important! If the walls of the house are crooked, then you should definitely level them and repair all existing cracks.

Scheme of facade insulation with polystyrene foam

After that, I proceeded directly to fixing the polystyrene foam sheets:

To begin with, I made the basis for the first row of insulation. To do this, I installed the initial profile bar, in a different way - the basement profile. In the future, the first row of plates will be focused specifically on it. In addition, it protects the plates from slipping.
Extruded polystyrene has a smooth surface, so I walked over the plates with a toothed roller, if this is not at hand, then you can do with incisions with a knife. It is in this simple way that you can increase the degree of adhesion

For my facade, I used 50 mm thick plates, the thickness depends on the purpose of use. For example, for roofing works use plates with a thickness of 80 mm, and for facades industrial buildings- 60 mm.

Fastening of expanded polystyrene sheets

Glue purchased specifically for polystyrene foam boards. This is a prerequisite in installation work. You can apply glue to the plate with a notched trowel. Then tightly pressed to the facade. Sticking must be done from left to right and in a mandatory checkerboard pattern, in order to exclude the joints of vertical seams
For better strength and durability of insulation, I fixed the plates after gluing with dish-shaped dowels. The head of such dowels presses the plates against the wall well. Such fasteners were needed a large number of, they are attached first around the perimeter of the insulation sheet, and then in the middle
When all the walls of the house were pasted over with facade insulation, it remained to plaster it. To do this, I fixed the reinforced mesh over the material with glue, leaving an overlap of 10 centimeters. For the corners of the house, I used special corner profiles. Then he applied two layers of plaster, the second leveled the wall for painting as much as possible. This technology is required if the walls of the house will be painted in the future.

Choice of decor

Decorative moldings from this material is in great demand. Thanks to lightweight structures, there is no load on the facade of the house. In addition, the decorative element has wide range models.
It is very convenient to use decorative details during the insulation of the house. I did not want to hang heavy elements made of stone or gypsum on the facade of the house, but styrofoam stucco molding seemed an excellent option.

Decorative elements made of expanded polystyrene

Advantages:

The elements are lightweight and will not be an additional load on the foundation
Can be crafted decorative design for any purpose
The quality of the products is quite high, thanks to which the joints of the parts are not visible, and all elements have clear lines
Products are produced very quickly
Can be used in conjunction with external heaters
The installation technology is simple, and you can do it yourself

To fix the decorative items, I used glue on acrylic polymer base. Due to the composition of the adhesive, the seams will not crumble from adverse temperature conditions. Elements withstand more than three hundred freeze / thaw cycles. It is better not to use cement-based glue.

Stucco molding from expanded polystyrene does not load the facade

Results

Thermal insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam is a popular method, which is often used not only in private houses, but also for external insulation apartments. Simplicity of home insulation with polystyrene foam and the possibility of using decorative elements from the same material, makes it possible to do all the work with your own hands and save on financial waste. The technology by which all work is carried out is within the power of even a beginner.

For owners, the lack of insulation of buildings is a serious problem. Heat loss in winter, as well as excessive heat inflow in summer, take away comfort, makes you pay much more for maintenance.

How to solve a problem?
The simplest and cheapest, as well as the most effective insulation ceiling very thick layer of insulation. That will immediately significantly increase the comfort in the house.

But to make a house truly warm, one cannot do without thermal insulation of the facade.
If the walls are made of heavy dense materials, then it is more economical to insulate the facade with foam plastic, as the cheapest heat insulator.

Styrofoam gluing and subsequent plastering is also an inexpensive process compared to other types. facade thermal insulation and finishes, such as panels (siding) or brick lining.

What to talk about with insulation specialists

Insulating the facade with foam plastic means fixing new layers on the walls and completely re-plastering the facade. Often, the implementation in such a volume is simply beyond the power of users, or the work will drag on for too long.

But insulation building teams are usually low-skilled and have little idea of what they actually do. Basically, they need to be controlled.

It is advisable to choose a team that has already performed similar work in the district, or you can see the results, talk with the owners ...

Most likely they will argue that 5 cm thick foam is enough, and even better 2 cm, but extruded polystyrene foam (much more expensive). And all because it is faster and easier to work with thin sheets, and with expensive material it will “break off more” ... As a result, the owner will simply incur big losses due to such advice.

What walls can be insulated with foam

Styrofoam like vapor barrier material can be used for external insulation only on walls made of heavy materials. The wall itself must have more resistance to steam movement than the entire foam layer. For the sake of interest, this can be checked and simple calculation. This heat insulator is not suitable for walls made of light materials - porous ceramics, aerated concrete, expanded clay concrete, wood, etc.

The surface of the wall on which the heat-insulating layer will be glued must be strong and even.

Even enough so that the sheets do not bump, do not rise above each other. It is also highly desirable that the sheet be glued over the entire area (glue is applied to the entire sheet with a notched trowel). Do walls often meet such requirements?

Walls need to be prepared

Styrofoam with plaster is fixed on glue, it should not tear off loose layers and collapse. This means that the wall needs to be prepared, all hinged pieces of iron, cornices removed ... peel off fragile layers, if any. Insulation can only be glued to a durable layer that does not separate mechanically from the wall.

What if the wall is partially crumbling plaster and very crooked?

About the quality of materials

What else is needed for the basic materials

Usually 10 cm foam is used

As a rule, a foam plate thicker than 10 cm cannot be purchased. But the problems in this to the cold climate zone there are no special ones.

Apply less than 10 cm of thermal insulation on the facade in temperate climate not advisable.

It is possible to reduce the thickness to 5 - 7 cm only in southern regions. So you will probably have to order and apply a sheet of insulation 10 cm thick for a wall made of cold materials.

Prepare materials yourself

It is best to take materials for facade insulation not in small portions as needed in a local store, but to purchase from wholesalers in a large batch. As a rule, a tidy sum is saved on this action - 20 percent of the total cost.

It’s just that a big truck will come to the house and from there it will be necessary to unload and store in a place protected from the sun and precipitation a whole mountain of everything - everything - packs of foam plastic, mesh rolls, dozens of packs of glue and facade plaster, buckets of paint, a box of dowels ...

What needs to be calculated

You need to find out the area of \u200b\u200bone sheet of foam, and the entire covered area of \u200b\u200bthe house - how many pieces of sheets will be needed.
Buy fiberglass mesh immediately with a margin of 20 percent by area - for trimming and overlapping
Corners, start, finish - in footage along the length of the slopes of the formed corners, walls ...
Dish-shaped dowels with the calculation - 5 pcs. on one sheet of foam with a margin.

Carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for the use and consumption of foam adhesive. You need to buy immediately in accordance with the area of \u200b\u200bthe house. But you should not overdo it, since then there will be nowhere to put the material, it is better to buy it later in the store nearby.
When choosing the final facade decoration, it is better to consult with specialists, sellers on volumes and types. The option is widely practiced without additional, but with painting the reinforcing layer directly on the foam, - it turns out reliably and beautifully and much cheaper.

So, the material has been selected and delivered to the place of work, the specialists are ready, the walls are suitable, the only thing left is to build wooden platforms (it is inconvenient and simply dangerous to do from ladders) and start the work. There are also many nuances in the work on the design of the facade with foam plastic and plaster. Some of them can be found in the reviews on how to perform wall insulation on your own, for example

Styrofoam (expanded polystyrene) is the most common insulation, which is widely used for both wall insulation and pipeline insulation. Most often, foam is used to perform work on the insulation of the facade of the house. There are several reasons for this, these are low cost, excellent thermal insulation characteristics and easy installation.

Advantages of foam for insulation:

zero hygroscopicity (no need to use vapor barrier films);
durability (with a good finish);
resistance to biological activity;
geometry stability under the influence of external conditions.

Among the disadvantages: combustibility, toxicity during combustion.

In general terms, many have an idea of how the wall is insulated from the outside with a rigid insulation, but you need to dwell on how to properly insulate the facade with foam plastic. Knowledge of installation thermal insulation material will help to do the work with your own hands and control hired specialists.

The technology of facade insulation with foam plastic

Main stages:

selection and calculation of material;
preparation of the wall surface;
installation of a basement profile;
foam plastic installation (slopes and wall);
seam sealing;
reinforcement and facade plastering;
Finishing work.

The order (scheme) of facade insulation is shown in the photo.

The installation technology will be identical for polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and foam plastic.

1 - calculation of heat-insulating material

What you need to prepare for facade insulation:

polystyrene foam (2560-3200 rubles / cubic meter) or expanded polystyrene (foam) (3500-5000 rubles / cubic meter). In terms of their properties, these are almost identical materials, but expanded polystyrene is more convenient to use due to the “groove-comb” joint system. However, it is much more expensive;

decorative foam elements for facade decoration;

primer. It is better to buy not a universal, but a deep penetration primer, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (555 rubles / 10 l);

foam glue (dry mix). For example, Kosbud (Poland, 390 rubles / 25 kg), Ceresit ST 34 (315 rubles / 25 kg), Ceresit ST 83 (410 rubles / 25 kg);

Note. You can prepare the glue yourself. For this, PVC glue (1 liter per bucket of the mixture) is added to the classic cement mortar. This technique does not greatly reduce costs, but it increases the complexity of the process and its duration (sifting, maintaining proportions, kneading, etc.).

Masters note that glue-foam is a more convenient tool. For example, Akfix (Turkey, 390 rubles/point) or Tytan (Poland, 410 rubles/point). Foam is more convenient to use, due to the lack of wet work and the loss of time to hold the solution, and it also has much less consumption.

plinth profile. Performs the function of the supporting edge of the insulation system and ensures the evenness of the laying of sheets, without horizontal displacement.

Profile has different width, for easy installation of insulation. For example, the price of a BauKom profile (Germany) is shown. standard length 2500 mm.

Working shelf width, mm	Price per m.p. rub.	Price per piece rub.
40	78,72	196,80
50	112,92	282,30
60	124,54	311,35
80	140,54	351,35
100	145,00	365,70
120	109,24	523,10
150	326,00	815,00
Plinth profile connector	for 100 pcs.	221,40
Compensator for plinth profiles	for 100 pcs.	226,94

The material was prepared for the site www.site

polyurethane foam (Foam Pensil 65 l 800 ml, 348 rubles);

window profile;

facade reinforced mesh(cell 22x35 - 54.9 rubles / rm, cell 12x14 - 65 rubles / rm);

reinforced plastic corner or perforated aluminum corner.

putty. Available for sale ready mixes, for example, VGT, Russia, 287.25 rubles / 3.6 kg. Buying dry putty will be cheaper. For example, TM "Prospectors" finish, Russia - 405 rubles / 20 kg. basic gray - 225 rubles / 20 kg;

dowel plate (2.39 - 9.99 per piece, depending on the length).

From the tool you will need: a spatula (smooth and notched), a hammer, a perforator, a grout grater, a clerical knife.

Calculation of foam plastic for facade insulation

High-quality insulation of the facade of the house with foam plastic is possible only with a competent calculation of the quantity and, most importantly, the thickness of the material, taking into account its density and thermal conductivity of the wall (brick, foam block, gas block).

Note. When insulating the walls of the facade of the house, you should think about insulating the basement, basement and even the foundation up to the level of freezing. Only such insulation can be considered effective.

It is more difficult to choose the optimal foam density - it varies from 15 to 35 kg / m3. Note that the lower the density, the higher thermal insulation properties however, the more brittle the material will be. Masters note that to insulate the wall of a residential building, you need to use foam with a density of 25 kg / m.cube. (mark PSB-S-25) and 40-50 mm thick.

Which foam is better to choose for home insulation?

Selection data is provided in the table (for PSB-S-25 foam plastic)

It is worth noting that for the redevelopment of the basement into a living space, it is necessary not only to insulate the foundation, but also the basement, floors on the ground.

Styrofoam requirements:

geometry. The sheet must be perfectly even, the allowable deviation in length and width is 10 mm, along the plane - 2 mm;

color. At quality material White color. Yellowness indicates non-compliance with storage conditions;

sheet integrity. Crumbling and deformed sheets are unsuitable for insulation.

Stage 2 - preparation of the facade for insulation

The surface of the wall on which the foam will be glued must be clean, without protruding elements. Permissible height difference - 10-15 mm. Everything that is higher (protrusions, bumps) - goes astray, everything that is significantly lower (depressions, potholes, cracks) should preferably be repaired with mortar.

How to prepare walls for foam insulation:

painted walls - the paint is removed (only if it has zero vapor permeability);

chalk trail - a primer is used;

shedding walls - cleaning with a metal brush.

A primer is applied to the prepared wall. It will increase the adhesion of the surface and avoid the appearance of fungus.

Stage 3 - installation of the basement profile for insulation

The purpose of the base profile for facade insulation systems is to simplify the installation of the first row of foam sheets, and minimize the horizontal deviation of the row. In addition, according to the masters, it is the profile that is a good protection of the profile from rodents. The profile is fastened with dowels and a mandatory level check.

In order to ensure the correct installation of the sheets and vertically, it is recommended to install hangers (nylon cords with a nut for weighting). Their installation step is 600-800 mm.

Stage 4 - installation of foam on the facade (slopes and wall)

Where to start with facade insulation?

Masters pay attention to the fact that novice users choose the wrong place to start work on facade insulation. Usually they are taken as a wall, either because of the simplicity of the work, or because of its scale, while work should begin with the arrangement of the slope.

For insulation of slopes, you can use a thinner sheet of foam. During installation, it should protrude beyond the wall by the thickness of the insulation plus 15-20 mm, depending on the evenness of the wall surface. Excess material is then cut off.

To provide beautiful and snug fit foam end to window frame it is recommended to use a window profile or a drywall profile (plastic corner).

Often, the slopes do not have a flat surface, so the resulting cavities should be filled with mortar, and large pieces of foam. It is the ability to additionally isolate the cavities that determines the start of work from the slopes.

Advice. The removal of the insulation under the low tide by 30-40 mm will reduce the noise of the rain of a metallic sheen.

Installation of foam on the plane of the wall starts from the bottom corner and is carried out with an offset of half the sheet, i.e. sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern. Thus, cold bridges are excluded.

Before starting to attach the foam to the wall, it is advisable to prepare the sheets. Namely, to hold on the surface of the sheet with a notched roller or grater. This will increase its roughness and improve adhesive adhesion.

How to glue foam on the facade?

The method of applying glue depends on the evenness of the wall:

with differences of not more than 10 mm. glue is applied to the surface of the sheet using a notched trowel;

with differences over 10 mm. the glue is applied in small “blots”, because more glue is needed, and the smeared sheet will be heavier. When laying, the sheet is pressed against the wall with slight displacements. So the glue fills the hollow space under the sheet. Residual glue is removed with a spatula. The peculiarity of this installation method is that you need to check the correct installation of each sheet with a level.

The second row of foam sheets is laid with an offset relative to the previous one. When laying sheets in two layers, you need to wait until the previous layer dries completely.

Note. Finishing the facade with foam plastic makes it possible to perform decoration window or door openings.

Some disagreement between the masters causes the need to use dowels-umbrellas, plate-shaped dowels or dowels with a wide cap (fungi). Fastening the foam to the wall with dowels prevents the sheet from shifting and falling off. Some experts argue that the glue is a strong enough fixative, and therefore the use of umbrellas is a waste of resources and time. Their opponents argue that this stage should not be neglected, because. an umbrella will provide a more secure fit.

Fastening with dish-shaped dowels is possible only after the adhesive has completely cured. It usually takes 1-2 days depending on the weather.

There are two ways to attach foam:

fastening in the middle and at the corners. In this case, 5 umbrella dowels are used for each sheet. And their total consumption is calculated taking into account the number of sheets. At the same time, parts of the sheets are also fastened with at least three umbrellas;

fastening in the middle and at adjacent edges or corners. This method allows you to save money by reducing the number of umbrellas. The method is more preferable because it fixes several sheets at the same time. But this method is only suitable for perfectly laid foam sheets, which do not need to be adjusted in height after mounting on the wall.

Advice. The dowel is driven into the foam immediately after it is glued (before the glue dries) if the work is carried out on the foundation, and in order to avoid destructive action ultraviolet.

One of the ways to fix the foam plastic with umbrellas is to sink the dowel into the material and then seal the installation site with a foam plug. Due to the complexity, this method is rarely used.

Note. After the foam is fixed with dowels, the protruding parts of the slopes are cut off.

Stage 5 - sealing the seams between the foam

Do not forget that the geometry of the foam sheet sometimes leaves much to be desired, and this inevitably leads to the appearance of gaps between the sheets. Even small gaps mean significant heat loss. Therefore, after laying the foam sheets, it is necessary to ensure sealing (cover up the seams).

The procedure for performing work differs depending on the thickness of the seam:

to fill large seams, it is advisable to use foam trimmings that fit into the gap. Please note that large seams should not be filled with mortar, because. its thermal conductivity is much higher than that of polystyrene. As a result, a lot of heat will still pass through the seam;

to fill thin seams, mounting foam is used, which is blown into the seam, and its excess is cut off after hardening. The result is the so-called "warm seam".

Note. The protruding parts of the foam are erased with a hard float.

Stage 6 - reinforcement of foam with mesh and finishing with plaster

In principle, the cladding of the facade with foam plastic is completed at this stage. But an unprotected insulation will not perform the functions of a heat insulator effectively for a long time. The fact is that the foam is destroyed under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and is not very resistant to mechanical damage, which means that it itself needs protection.

Plaster acts as a protective material. So that she lays down well and keeps on smooth surface sheet, reinforced mesh is used. You should not save on it, because the technology of facade insulation with foam plastic provides for the mandatory use of a reinforcing mesh.

Reinforcing polystyrene with a mesh - video

How to properly reinforce foam?

adjacent mesh sheets are mounted with an overlap of 70-100 mm;

the mesh should be fastened in such a way as to avoid the appearance of wrinkles (the mesh is leveled by hand);

mesh tightly literally recessed into the solution;

Advice. If the work is carried out in the hot season, it is allowed to moisten the adhesive layer from the spray gun.

the installation of the grid is carried out quickly, because the glue quickly hardens and fastens the mesh to the foam;

the mesh attachment point near window and door openings is additionally reinforced with mesh pieces. Pieces are mounted at the corners of openings, slopes and prevent cracks;

the corners of the house and window openings are finished with a special plastic corner with a mesh. The mesh is laid on adjacent canvases. A perforated aluminum corner can serve as an alternative, but it does not cope well with its function of protecting the corner from deformation and is more difficult to install. The corner is leveled with a rule or an angular spatula.

Stage 7 - painting the facade of the house after insulation with foam

After mounting on the foam plastic mesh, another layer is applied adhesive mixture. Optimal Thickness glue is 3 mm., and the purpose is to hide irregularities and give the surface even appearance thus preparing it for staining.

If the second decorative layer came out not very even, it can be leveled with a grater. The process is laborious, but allows you to get a beautiful smooth surface.

Painting the facade after insulation with foam plastic is aimed at giving a grayish building a more aesthetic appearance.

Any paint that is designed to perform is suitable for painting the facade. external works. The paint is applied with a spray gun or a soft foam rubber roller.

It should be noted that painting with special facade paints creates a film on the surface of the plaster, and ensures the achievement of the “thermos effect”, making the house more airtight and, accordingly, warmer.

Often, users refuse to paint and instead of the second layer of adhesive solution, decorative plaster such as bark beetle or lamb is applied to the facade.

The technology of applying bark beetle plaster - video

Applying decorative lamb plaster - video

How to insulate the facade with foam plastic with your own hands - video

The cost of facade insulation with polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam)

As an additional incentive to perform facade insulation with foam plastic, we will independently quote prices for thermal insulation work per 1 m2.

The estimated cost of work depends on the type of material, scope of work, surface quality and complexity of the wall configuration, speed of work, time of work (season of the year).

It is possible and easier to calculate how much it costs to insulate a square meter. According to users, the price of materials is approximately equal to the cost of work performed. This season (2016), turnkey foam insulation costs about 2000-2500 rubles. per sq.m.