How to cover up loose wall plaster. Fixing a hole in the wall: there is nothing easier. Repair of old plaster

How to start repairing plaster walls? This question is asked by everyone who first decided to hold overhaul in your own house or apartment.

Training

Removing the old coating

First of all, you from the entire site that you plan to repair. Then the seams of the masonry are cleared by 1.5-2 m, the surface is washed with warm water.

Installation of beacons

If the area planned for repair is large, layers should be applied over the beacons to obtain the desired result.

The distance between the beacons is set so that a solution can be placed between them by the rule. The thickness of one beacon should not exceed the thickness of the plaster without covering. Instead of lighthouses, some of the old sturdy trim can be used.

Leveling by rule

There are depending on the season. For example, in summer, in dry and hot weather, the surface must be moistened periodically so that it does not dry out too quickly.

Defects are usually eliminated with a brick, scraper or dry wood end. Wall repair in wooden house can be made with lime mortar, but in damp rooms a more complex cement plastering method is provided.

Protruding corners can be repaired with gypsum mortar, which has the property of fast solidification. To do this, clean the place for repair from the rest of the solution and dust, periodically wetting the surface with water. After that, a mass of gypsum is applied with their own hands and carefully leveled in correct form angle.

Note! To determine the area where the plaster has peeled off, you can lightly tap on it.

Restoring plaster

corner finishing technology

If grease stains or soot stains have formed on the surface, they must be eliminated first, before painting and wallpapering. Rust can be eliminated with a three percent hydrochloric acid solution, fat with a two percent solution.

Rust is also removed with a solution blue vitriol, white or special paints.

The repair school advises - wall plastering in the presence of surface irregularities should be carried out after applying leveling putty.

Most often, the damaged area is cut so that the hole has the shape of a rectangle. The surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust and then moistened with a soda solution.

If the repaired place occupies a considerable area, a gypsum adhesive is prepared, which is applied to reverse side triangles in the form of a pyramid.

For those who are wondering where to start repairing tiled walls, we recommend checking finishing material for strength. If it does not come out carefully to get rid of the damaged tile, you should knock it out in small pieces. This is done gradually from the middle to the edges, so as not to hook or damage the edges of adjacent tiles.

In places where windows are connected under a layer of plaster, you can use double-sided foam tape. New tiles are glued with special glue on casein-cement mastic (price - from 280 rubles), proportions 1: 3: 1: 2.5 - dry casein glue, cement, sand, water.

A few tips on how to repair a cracked wall.

• Apply primer, let it dry for 2-3 hours. Then carefully sand the surface so that it is perfectly smooth and even.
• Further, with which the surface will be smeared on top. Apply with a spatula cement mortar and let it dry.

Aligning

Crack repair

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Plastering is one of the oldest and most reliable ways to level walls. In addition, plaster makes surfaces more durable. Although plastered surfaces last a very long time, they also need to be repaired, as cracks appear on them over time. In addition, many factors affect the condition of the plaster - from the level of humidity in the room to the degree of mechanical stress on the surface (the plaster coating is destroyed faster in window and doorways). In addition, frequent plaster repairs are inevitable where poor-quality mortar was used or the walls were not carefully prepared for work. The tips below will help you avoid mistakes during repairs. internal walls. Following the recommendations, you can forget about the frequent repair of partitions in the apartment. In addition, they will become a reliable basis for any finishing material.

From time to time, walls finished with plaster need to be repaired, as they can become unusable due to dampness in the room or poor-quality mortar.

How to prepare the walls for repair?

Remove before repair old layer cracked and swollen plaster.

A radical way to repair the walls inside the room might seem complete replacement plaster, but it is unlikely that such an operation would look reasonable if, in general, the walls look good. New plastering may be necessary before laying tiles on a surface that has been previously painted, for example. But more on that later. In the meantime, if you plan to only slightly update the partitions before wallpapering or new painting, it is enough to determine the most problematic areas of the surface. Cracks, for example, are visible to the naked eye, and "suspicious" areas can be checked by tapping on them with a wooden or plastic mallet. A dull sound will immediately give out where the plaster has lagged behind the surface. In these places, the old solution is removed with a spatula. In this case, it is necessary to check what caused the delamination.

Perhaps, under the plaster lagging behind the wall, an unprepared surface remained: traces of paint, grease or whitewash remained on it. All this will need to be removed, otherwise the new layer will suffer the same fate as the previous one. The wall must be cleaned before complete removal pollution.

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How to deal with fungus?

Another factor in the peeling of the plaster layer from the wall can be a fungus. Its appearance is most likely in rooms with high humidity and places of leaks.

The primary task in this case is to eliminate the causes of the appearance of the fungus: wall insulation, elimination of leaks, improvement of air circulation in the room.

If a fungus was present on the wall, then a new layer of plaster cannot be applied until the wall is dried and treated with an antiseptic.

As for the removal of collapsing plaster, it must be removed not only in the area with obvious signs of the appearance of the fungus, but also to go beyond it by a few cm, removing the “healthy” solution around the affected area. It is worth adding that before removing old plaster the treated area must be moistened. This is done not only so that there is less dust, because fungal spores also fly freely along with it. You also need to clean the base under the fungus-infected area as deeply as possible. If the wall is brick, then the masonry seams are cleaned 2-3 cm deep. All insufficiently strong fragments are removed from the concrete partition.

Further repair of the plaster can only be continued after the wall has been thoroughly dried. And when the surface dries, it must be impregnated with fungicidal compounds that will destroy the spores remaining in the wall and prevent the appearance of the fungus in the future. Once again, it should be recalled that antifungal treatment is effective only after the elimination of the causes leading to its appearance.

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Crack treatment

Treatment of cracks for the subsequent repair of plaster looks much easier. All crevices are wetted with water, after which the peeling fragments along the edges are removed with a spatula. With the help of tools, a kind of groove is made along the crack with a narrowing in depth. After cleaning, the cavities are treated with priming compounds that improve the adhesive properties of the repaired walls. The primer is applied to all surfaces on which the plaster will be applied.

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What is needed at the preparatory stage?

The work of cleaning the interior walls from defective plaster is best done with the following tools:

• spatulas of different widths;
• trowel;
• steel brush;
• building hair dryer;
• perforator.

The latter can be useful if you need to delve into concrete partition to remove traces of the fungus, and a hair dryer is used to remove from the wall old paint(however, this work must be carried out in a ventilated area) and drying damp surfaces.

For impregnation of areas to be repaired, the following are used:

• ordinary water;
• antifungal solutions;
• primer.

They are applied to the repaired surfaces with a brush or spray gun.

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How to repair plaster?

Large sections of the wall require reinforcement.

Spacious areas with damaged plaster and the largest cracks need additional reinforcement. A reinforcing tape is laid in the cracks, and the area for plastering is pasted over with a reinforcing mesh. Reinforced and areas adjacent to the door and window frames. It should be added that on deep and wide areas where repairs will be carried out, wall plaster is applied in several layers. The first of these is done by spraying with a liquid solution.

After it dries, another 1 layer of plaster is applied to the wall, which must dry before applying the next one. Sometimes, to repair a problem area, it is necessary to plaster it in 3-4 layers. The last of them can be leveled with a rule, if its length allows you to lean on the edges of the cut surface, or with a trowel. It may be necessary to install beacons if the area to be repaired is too large (how to do this will be discussed below).

All defects on the walls are sealed with a solution with the same composition, which was used for their plastering earlier. It must be said that it is not worth preparing a solution with a maximum content of the binding component (cement). This will not only improve the strength characteristics of the plaster, but will lead to the appearance of new cracks in it. For better plasticity, add glue (for example, PVA) to the solution. The solution for the finishing layer is made with a slightly lower content of the binder component, compared with the previous ones.

If the partitions are lined with plasterboard or MDF panels, then the repair of the plaster can be completed, however, before gluing the wallpaper on the interior walls, the surfaces need puttying, before which the slightly hardened finishing plaster of the walls is treated with a bar of expanded polystyrene. With its help, small irregularities are overwritten, and the surface becomes more uniform.

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How to repair walls in wet rooms?

Often the walls of many bathrooms, kitchens and toilets are covered with paint. Many homeowners have a desire to make repairs in these premises and lay out their partitions with tiles. Wall plaster cannot be run over paint, so it will have to be removed. It has already been described above how the paint coating is removed. After that, it is carried out internal plaster, correcting surface defects and leveling it before laying the finishing material.

Do not forget that bathrooms and kitchens are rooms with a high level of humidity, so the likelihood of a fungus in them is quite high. To avoid problems in the further operation of these rooms, treat the walls with fungicides.

High-quality alignment of walls is possible only when using a beacon profile. This stage of repair of internal walls can be considered the most time-consuming, as it requires the most responsible approach to work.

To install beacons you will need:

• plastic dowels 4 x 60 mm;
• self-tapping screws corresponding to them;
• beacon profile with fasteners;
• plumb or level;
• hammer drill;
• drill driver;
• synthetic threads.

Holes for dowels are drilled near the upper and lower corners of one of the walls. 2 vertical profiles are attached to the wall. The correctness of their installation is determined by a plumb line or level. Threads are stretched between the extreme beacons, creating a plane for future plaster. The remaining profiles are attached with an orientation to these threads. The distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of the rule. The same operation is repeated on the remaining partitions. Beacons can also be attached to the walls with the help of plaster.

The first layer of plaster consists of a liquid solution that is sprayed onto the surface, the next layers are stretched over it with a trowel, float or spatula. The final layer is leveled by a rule based on beacons. Excess mortar in the corners is removed with an angular equalizer. Some time after leveling, the plastered wall is rubbed with a grater.

Plaster is one of the most popular facing coverings. However, if it was grossly violated technological process or negligence in operation is allowed, various types of damage occur: cracks, shedding, peeling.

From this article, the reader will learn why plaster cracks when it dries, the causes of defects and methods for their elimination. As well as the sequence of repair processes for the plastered surface of the walls, both inside the building and the facade.

Technological causes of defects

Violation of proportions in the preparation of the solution or the technology of its application, as well as errors in the preparation of the base, lead to the following defects.

When locally repairing wall plaster, in some places, cracks and potholes are cleaned of crumbling particles with a stiff brush, then the exposed surface is abundantly coated with a primer deep penetration. Drying time is indicated on the packaging and different manufacturers it may vary, although it rarely exceeds 3-5 hours.

Jointing a crack before repair

The covering layer applied to the cracks is rubbed gently, flush with the general level, it is advisable not to allow the solution to be smeared over the previously treated surface.

Fresh plaster with small cracks, scattered at a slight distance from each other, is frayed over the entire area. To repair monolithic plaster, a cement or lime-cement mixture is diluted. As a filler, fine sand with a grain size of 0.3-1.2 mm is used.

Cleaning, dedusting cracks

Repair of plaster of internal walls by grinding the surface:

1. The surface is wetted with water;
2. A little repair mixture is collected on a grater;
3. Apply to the surface of the crack with separate strokes;
4. The grater is cleaned, moistened with water, working area sprayed with a brush;
5. The solution is distributed in a thin layer along the crack with circular movements of the grater.

Drying cracks

There is another reason why gypsum plaster cracks when it dries. It's a matter of temperature and humidity. According to SNiP 3.04.01-87, as well as the German standard DIN V 18550:2005-04 for insulating and finishing coatings, the most popular gypsum plasters Knauf companies should dry at a temperature not higher than 18-20 ° C, and humidity: walls up to 8% and air 40-55%. At the same time, it is very important not to arrange intensive ventilation in the room.

Surface cracked as a result of drying out from overheating

For cement compositions drying speed at optimum performance external environment the other, moreover, strongly depends on the type of foundation. There can be much more options for why plaster on the walls is cracking.

Sand-cement and heavy decorative plaster on brick and concrete base in order to avoid cracking, it should dry at a temperature of 15-25°C and a relative humidity of no more than 75%. At the same time, the duration of drying depends on the humidity of the wall 5-15%, up to a quarter of the entire period. Therefore, a 2 cm layer can dry from 18 to 30 hours.

Local repair of defects

Grouting a crack with a repair compound

Repair of old plaster is carried out in several stages:

1. Checking the surrounding layer, removing the lagging part;
2. Cleaning and expansion of cracks;
3. Primer;
4. An intermediate layer of repair compound is applied to the crack 2-3 mm below the total wall surface;
5. Until the mixture has hardened, a mesh is applied to its surface with a spatula to improve the adhesion of the decorative layer;
6. After the repair mixture has dried, a decorative, finishing layer is applied, which is given the appropriate texture.

This sequence of actions is suitable for repair decorative plaster with a uniform pattern.

All compounds, including those used in furniture production can be divided into two categories: detachable and non-detachable.

The latter constitute a special category, since they are presented with special requirements. They work in conditions of temperature and humidity differences, which affects their durability and stability. And if detachable connections can be tightened or sorted out, then you cannot carry out such a procedure with one-piece connections.

A little about the characteristics of adhesives glue D4

In the manufacture of furniture, glued one-piece joints are mainly used. Since furniture is usually made from wood-based materials or their derivatives, appropriate adhesives are used. One of the most important criteria characterizing the adhesive is its water resistance. So, glue D4 considered the most water resistant compared to the rest. This is all the more important since polyvinyl acetate dispersions, which are widely used as adhesive compositions for furniture, work even in tropical climates.

About gluing

The drying parameters of the adhesive during application are affected by temperature, humidity and the pressing force of the elements to be glued. More heat reduces the time required for compression, and the humidity increases it.

Another point is the humidity of the surfaces to be glued. For most moisture-resistant adhesives, it should be between 7 and 10%. That is, the surfaces must be dry.

A bit of physics

The physics of the process is such that in the process of absorbing moisture, the adhesive layer swells, and during evaporation and recoil, on the contrary, it dries up and loses in size. Such fluctuations lead to the fact that the glue line "dries out" and loses its strength and geometric stability. In fact, these cyclic fluctuations lead to the destruction of the connection and the furniture as a whole. That is why the moisture resistance of the glue is of such importance.

ABOUT THE PROCESS OF GLUING WITH THE USE OF ADHESIVE D4

When gluing, it is desirable to reduce the gap between the parts to a minimum, since a large tolerance and an increase in the adhesive layer reduce the strength of the seam and increase the drying time. Glue is applied to one of the surfaces and the surfaces are pressed against each other. It also does not hurt to clamp them with a clamp. The seam gains its final strength and water resistance after 7 days. As a rule, glue does not change the color of wood, but contact with metal should be avoided, since together with the tannic acids of the tree itself, it can change its color. The adhesive layer itself can also be painted.