How to conduct electricity in a house made of rounded logs. Laying electrical wiring in a log house - hidden and exposed installation Electrical wiring in a wooden house made of rounded logs

When laying electrical cables, you need to be extremely careful about observing safety measures. Wood is a flammable material, and any short circuit can lead to a fire. Electrical wiring in a house made of rounded logs is installed only by licensed specialists, and independent electrical installation work is carried out if there is special knowledge. What the owner needs to know wooden house to avoid fatal errors?

Features of electrical installation

The most common mistake that DIYers make when installing an electrical network is installing hidden wiring in walls without protective devices. You can often see that the wire is hidden not in a metal pipe, but in a corrugated plastic pipe; this can ultimately lead to a fire. Hidden wiring in a log house made of rounded logs is dangerous for several reasons:

When laying a cable, the insulation may be partially broken, and often the electrician does not even notice it. As a result, when the load is turned on, the damaged area will begin to heat up quickly, and this will lead to a short circuit. When heated, the corrugated wall of the pipe will quickly collapse, after which fire of the walls will become inevitable.
The second reason why hidden installation of electrical wiring in a house made of rounded logs should be carried out only using a metal pipe is rodents that live in many wooden buildings. Rats and mice can chew through the plastic box and taste the insulation of the wire. This will again lead to a short circuit and a fire, and it is almost impossible to detect the damaged area immediately.
Dust accumulates in the voids in wooden walls. This material ignites instantly when the temperature rises, and the fire will reach alarming proportions in a very short time. The house can be destroyed along with all its property in just a few hours.

The main reason for such problems is the desire to save money on calling qualified electricians and the desire to quickly complete the laying of cables. As a result, the structure is under threat, which could easily have been avoided if appropriate measures had been taken.

Electrical network installation: stages of work

Electrical wiring in a house made of rounded logs is laid both hidden and open method, but in both cases the work is carried out strictly according to the standards. The first stage is drawing up a project for the building’s electrical network: it must indicate all the sockets and switches that are supposed to be placed in the rooms, as well as all lighting. You need to have an approximate idea of where it will be installed. Appliances so that the sockets are conveniently located and there is no need for tees.

Current consumers are divided into groups, and each group is equipped with its own circuit breaker. If the wiring is supposed to be done in a small room, you can combine all the devices into one group. It is important to think through street lighting, as darkness in the area can cause injury.

For internal wiring, a VVGng-LS cable with copper conductors is used; it is equipped with non-flammable insulation to prevent fire and the spread of smoke.

Sockets are selected depending on the type of wiring, hidden or open; they can be combined into blocks for ease of placement.

You should also choose the right input cable; it must match the power of the network.

Electrical installation methods

The installation of electricity in a cylinder house is carried out in two main ways:

Additional work

Electrical installation work is completed by arranging grounding and installing residual current devices (RCDs) to prevent network overload. The RCD reacts to the slightest change in current in the network, which may be a sign of a short circuit, and turns off the system. All work on the installation of electrical equipment must be carried out by specialists who will correctly calculate the power of the equipment and select everything necessary for installation.

It is important to remember that any electrical wiring requires timely repair and periodic replacement. It is recommended to change the wires every 10 years. In addition, you will have to respond in a timely manner to all alarm signals, such as sudden tripping of an RCD, heating sockets, the appearance of a spark, etc.

If such symptoms occur, it is necessary to take immediate action without waiting for a short circuit, which can be very expensive. And here one of the disadvantages of hidden wiring is fully manifested: detecting damage in this case will be much more difficult, and after any repair work the wall will have to be rebuilt.

Electrical installation in a private home is a responsible and dangerous task, so compliance with all precautions is necessary. It is extremely undesirable to save on calling a specialist: any mistake can lead to malfunctions in the electrical network, which will lead to equipment failure and other troubles. Faulty wiring is one of the most common causes of fires, so every owner should take care of safety.

]]> ]]> Currently in suburban construction there is an increase in the share wooden houses. Such houses have many advantages: they consist of environmentally friendly materials, more fast pace construction, they are easier and more economical to heat, and so on. However, electrical installation work in a wooden house has its own specifics and requirements.
Electrics in a wooden house must meet much more stringent requirements. The initial task of electrical installation in a wooden house is to lay the input (supply) cable from the power line support to the distribution board of the house. There are two ways to lay the electrical input cable country house: aerial and underground (in a trench).

The air installation method is simpler, faster and more economical. For device overhead line For power supply of a country house, self-supporting SIP-brand wire of various sections and with different numbers of cores (depending on the power allocated to the Customer and the number of phases), special cable clamps, mounting anchors, etc. are used. The advantage of using this wire is that no tension is required on the cable carrying the cable. However, the aerial method of laying the supply cable has its drawbacks: disruption of the aesthetic appearance of the façade of the house, possible damage to the input cable by green spaces (trees, shrubs), and less durability.

The method of laying the input cable in a trench is more labor-intensive and expensive, but it preserves the aesthetics of the appearance of the house, prevents the possibility of damage to the cable by green spaces, and increases the service life of the input cable. To install an underground power supply line for electricians of a private home, it is used armored cable VBBShV brand with a different number of cores and their cross-section (depending on the allocated power and the number of phases). The cable is laid in a trench at least 0.8 meters deep, having sand cushion 15-20 cm thick. Then the cable is filled with sand for another 15-20 cm. Next, the trench is filled to 40-50 cm, a warning tape is laid with the inscription “do not dig, cable” and then the trench is filled completely.
The input cable supplies voltage to the distribution board, from which power is distributed to all electrical consumers. The distribution board is equipped with: circuit breakers, residual current devices, differential circuit breakers, grounding and grounding buses and other devices. Automation protects people, equipment and all electrical equipment of a country house as a whole.
Electrical distribution boards in a country house.

In production electrical installation work in a wooden house, as a rule, open-mounted panels are used. It is recommended to give preference to products famous manufacturers, such as ABB, Shneider Electric, Moeller.

Methods for laying power lines inside a wooden house

There are two ways to install electrical lines inside a wooden house: overhead (exposed wiring) and hidden (hidden wiring). Open wiring is electrical wiring laid along the surface of the walls, ceilings of the house, etc. Hidden wiring is electrical wiring laid in the structural elements of a building: inside walls, ceilings, etc.
The simplest and inexpensive option- This is an overhead installation of electrical wiring. In this case, work on laying cables and installing a distribution board, sockets and switches will take from two days to two weeks, depending on the size of the house, the saturation of electrical equipment and the qualifications of the craftsmen.
Surface-mounted installation is carried out in non-flammable PVC cable ducts (ducts), PVC corrugation (or metal sleeve) and simply exposed cable in a non-flammable sheath with fasteners.

]]> ]]> Laying electrical lines for a wooden house in PVC boxes

If the walls of the house are a flat surface (timber houses, houses made of rounded logs, lined with clapboards, frame-panel houses), installation is carried out in non-flammable PVC boxes. The boxes are profiles rectangular shape with removable covers. Installing electrical wiring in boxes provides the following advantages:
-good cooling conditions for wires;
-convenience of laying additional cables or wires;
-free access to wires and cables throughout the route and ease of their replacement
-if necessary, the ability to create a branch on any section of the route
The box cover can always be easily removed and additional cable added. For this purpose, when calculating the cross-section of the box, a 30% margin is made.
Manufacturers today offer monochromatic boxes: white, light brown and brown.
and structured like wood: pine and walnut colors.

Wiring connections are made in outdoor junction boxes or inside sockets and switches.
Laying wiring in boxes in wooden houses Laying wiring in boxes in wooden houses Laying wiring in boxes in wooden houses Laying wiring in boxes in wooden houses

Electrical installation work in a wooden house assumes that all cable passages through walls and ceilings will be made in metal sleeves.

Laying electrical lines with retro cables on insulators.

Currently, it has become popular to lay external wiring in a wooden house with retro cable (twisted wire) on insulators. It is especially advisable to use it in houses made of rounded logs. The market for electrical installation materials offers retro cables from Italian and Spanish manufacturers, in particular, retro decorative braided cables from GI Gambarelli, Italy. The following color options are available: white, gold, gray, black brown.
We offer the best way laying electrical wiring in a log house - a combination of laying in cable channels (ducts) with the color and texture of wood and retro cable on insulators. With this approach, main (horizontal) lines are laid in cable ducts along the floor plinth or near the ceiling. Lowering and lifting to switches, sockets and other electrical installation products is carried out with a twisted cable in a decorative braid on insulators. Wiring connections are made inside the housings of sockets and switches, or in outdoor junction boxes with the color and texture of wood.

Electrical installation in a wooden house using open method with brackets

Laying the cable in an open way along the walls with fastening with special brackets is carried out if laying power supply lines in PVC boxes without disturbing the aesthetics of the interior is difficult and sometimes impossible (for example, the electrician of a house made of rounded logs not lined with clapboard) or at the request of the customer. Wiring connections are made in junction boxes or inside sockets and switches.
Laying wiring on brackets in wooden houses Laying wiring on brackets in wooden houses Laying wiring on brackets in wooden houses Laying wiring on brackets in wooden houses

Hidden wiring of electrical lines in a wooden house

In wooden houses this type wiring is carried out in metal pipes (according to PUE clause 7.1.32)
Hidden installation of electrical lines in a wooden house is a much more labor-intensive, time-consuming and, accordingly, more expensive process. However, from a design point of view, it is more attractive.
All main electrical lines in a wooden house are carried out in metal steel pipes in the ceilings before the installation (filing) of floors and ceilings. Access to sockets, switches and lamps is carried out in vertical technological openings in the walls.
The initial, very important task for the Customer is to decide on the location of electrical consumers in the house (with their geometric connections), since, unlike surface-mounted installation, it is extremely difficult and sometimes impossible to move or add electrical points without disturbing the aesthetics of the interior. Based on the layout plan for electrical consumers, a plan is prepared for drilling vertical technological holes in the walls for further electrical installation work in a wooden house.

Drilling of embedded holes in the walls of a house is carried out in the workshop at the stage of cutting out the house or during the process of assembling the house directly at the site of its installation. As a rule, this method is applicable when installing electrical wiring in a house made of rounded logs. Wire switching and soldering connections are made in metal junction boxes or directly in sockets and switches.

At the location where sockets and switches are installed (according to previously determined geometric references), holes are cut for socket boxes to install socket and switch mechanisms. To do this, you need to know in advance the series of sockets and switches to be installed, since installation boxes for different series may have different sizes.

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Examples of electrical wiring installation in houses made of wooden beams

Please note that the electrical wiring is made of corrugated pipe, which, unlike a metal hose, is solid, that is, it is not made of a rolled strip. Therefore, it has localization ability and is hermetically sealed. Intended also for water and gas pipelines.

The installation in such a pipe fully satisfies SNiP and PUE. Those areas where PVC corrugated pipe is present will be located in concrete screed, that is, surrounded by non-combustible material.

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

]]> ]]> The article “Electrical wiring of a wooden house” discussed the simplest wiring option, which combines maximum safety with minimum costs. In the described cases, functionality is at the forefront. Aesthetics fade into the background. Of course, it is possible to carry out open wiring as carefully as possible, so that it will not be too noticeable. But not everyone likes cable channels on the walls.

Some try to use colored electrical installation products, use boxes Brown or “wood-look”, but, unfortunately, the choice of such products is small, the quality is not always consistent, manufacturers do not provide the necessary range of fittings: corners, turns, joints, plugs. Without them, it is difficult to accurately install cable channels; over time, due to the wood’s susceptibility to swelling and drying out, the joints expand, the ducts move somewhat - the wiring ceases to look neat.

There are also completely inconvenient cases: how, for example, to install a box on log walls, on walls covered with the now fashionable blockhouse or upholstered edged board“overlapping”? Give up cable channels? Just staple the wire to the walls? However, not every cable will look aesthetically pleasing.

Most VVGng cables have black insulation, while NYM cables have gray insulation. How will this “color scheme” combine with the color of the wood? But what if you need to lay several cables nearby at once? In a modern home, saturated with electrical appliances, the number of cables laid in parallel can sometimes reach several dozen! Do not forget that the possibility of laying cables directly on the base without mechanical protection is considered somewhat controversial in regulatory documentation. Thus, SP 31-110-2003 allows open laying on a flammable base without a lining only with “a single cable with copper conductors with a cross-section of no more than 6 mm2, non-flammable.”

So it’s impossible to run two cables side by side? Or can’t they be secured with one bracket, as is sometimes customary? And if you run them at some distance from each other and there are not two such cables, but five, ten, or more, then what will the wall turn into? But, PUEs require open wiring in residential premises “in electrical baseboards, boxes, etc.” (clause 7.1.37). Can we count "etc." permission to conduct open wiring directly with cable along the walls or on rollers allowed in Table. 2.1.2.?

But in the section “Selecting the type of electrical wiring, choosing wires and cables and the method of laying them” of the PUE, we talk about electrical wiring in general, and in Chapter. 7 about electrical wiring in special rooms, which include, incl. and living quarters. Thus, it is probably necessary to interpret the notorious “etc” not as direct laying of cables along the walls, but laying in electrical rigid and flexible pipes, metal hose... That is, cables laid along the walls of residential premises must be protected from possible mechanical damage.
The problem of electrical installation products.

Assortment of sockets and switches for open wiring very limited. Most reputable manufacturers support it only for the cheapest series. These series do not have many convenient “bells and whistles” that are found in the series of the middle and high price range. For example, there are no programmable dimmers, cross switches that allow you to control the light from three or more places, there are no different timers, etc. The color range of products is limited, the material used is inexpensive plastic.

]]> ]]> And although the quality of products from reputable manufacturers is high, they cannot always satisfy the taste of a picky buyer. From what is currently presented on our market, I can note the “Etude” series (produced by the Schneider Electric plant in St. Petersburg), “Wessen” - also recently acquired by Schneider Electric, “Elyo” - a former independent Swedish company, acquired by Schneider Electric, Simon (Spain ) Kopp (Germany) - the last two will still have to be looked for, and a number of others. In addition to these products, Turkish and Russian sockets and switches for outdoor installation are available on the market, but their quality is noticeably inferior to the above-mentioned series.

Legrand and ABB, which are widely known among us, do not produce products for external installation, except for special ones installed in damp and dusty rooms. True, most manufacturers have an assortment of lifting boxes (usually in a very limited range of colors) that allow you to mount products for hidden installation in cable systems, but this combination looks very controversial on wooden walls. Again, not everyone likes the fact that products for outdoor installation protrude far from the wall, which increases the likelihood of damage, especially in passage areas and makes it difficult to place furniture.

Thus, we see that open electrical wiring may not always meet the picky tastes of users. But for hidden wiring in combustible structures, Russian regulatory documentation imposes even more stringent requirements, which sometimes seem impossible to meet. There are only two options here: laying cables in blind metal boxes or metal pipes or in non-flammable plaster, which should surround the cable on all sides with a layer of at least 10 mm (Table 14.2 SP 31-110-2003, PUE: Table 2.1.3.) . Such a strict requirement of the PUE seems impossible, because from a layman’s point of view, it turns the house into a “plumbing” through which wires must run.

Again, no one would think of covering a beautiful lining with a layer of cement or gypsum mortar. This gives rise to speculation about excessive demands. “What can happen to a cable in flame-retardant insulation, protected by modern automation, laid inextricably from the panel to the outlet?” - this is how some electrical “specialists” argue, admitting their incompetence.

They stretch cables along corrugated floors, stuff the wires under baseboards, and hide them under the “casing” of windows and door frames, explaining to the ignorant client that this is exactly what should be done. However, I am ready to consider at least two unfavorable scenarios that apparently guided the developers of the regulatory documentation when establishing such stringent requirements.
1. Rodents. Mice and rats may appear in the ceilings and walls of wooden houses. For some reason, these very unpleasant “companions” of humans love to chew on the plastic insulation of wires. I have had occasion to remove wires from walls whose insulation had been corroded for several meters. She bore distinct teeth marks. In some places there was no insulation at all, and a short circuit could occur at any moment. Even if the protective automation worked flawlessly, at the point of the short circuit there would be a powerful flash for a fraction of a second, capable of setting fire to wood dust, dust, tow - you never know, quickly flammable material accumulates over time in walls and ceilings.
2. Wood, as you know, “breathes”. This is affected by changes in air humidity. We've all experienced jammed doors and windows in winter and spring, when air humidity increases. In addition, houses are subject to some settlement. Dangerous voltages may occur in the cable, which can lead to damage or breakage. Further developments have already been discussed in paragraph 1.
[Work moment. Laying cables in steel trays. The wall will be sheathed.] If the cable is placed in a non-combustible environment, no further spread of fire will occur. The maximum we risk is that there will be no light in certain rooms or one or more outlets will stop working.
Some installers use a metal hose for hidden cable installation, considering it a flexible metal pipe. However, nowhere in the regulatory documentation is there an assumption of using a metal hose as a metal pipe. I think this is explained by the fact that he is not “deaf.” The seal is provided by a cotton thread that perfectly supports combustion (type RC-X). Those who wish can experiment - pull out the sealing cord and set it on fire with a lighter. The result will dispel all doubts. A metal hose with an asbestos seal (RTs-A) is also produced. But it is extremely rare. On sale I was able to find with difficulty a metal hose with asbestos thread of only a large diameter.

Thus, using a metal hose for hidden installation of cables in combustible structures according to current regulatory documentation is unacceptable.
How wiring should be done “in theory” is clear. But how can such stringent requirements be met in practice? In this article I will try to focus on the technology for performing these not so simple jobs.
Option 1. Combination of cable channels and electrical installations for hidden wiring.
Trunk lines in this option are laid in boxes along the ceiling or floor skirting boards. [Hidden location of the switch, cable supply in the cable channel] Branches to sockets and switches are made with a low cable channel, the end of which is closed with a plug. Electrical installation products are mounted in metal socket boxes. A hole is pre-drilled under them using a wood bit. This option, combining open cable routing and sockets and switches for hidden installation, allows you to endlessly expand the range of the latter and reduce the depth of the protruding parts. Alternatively, you can place the highways in neighboring rooms, where aesthetics are not so important, drill through the wall, lay a steel bushing, install a metal socket box and conceal the installation of sockets and switches on the walls of the “front” room.

Option 2. Hidden mains and branches in cable ducts.
[Cable channel on the support.]
Trunk lines are laid in ceilings. For this, sometimes metal pipes are used. Due to the need to make turns, copper pipes are often used, the price of which goes beyond all reasonable limits. We use blank metal trays with [Cables in Metal Trays] covers specifically designed for this purpose. The industry produces similar trays different sizes. Wide ones can accommodate dozens of cables. Trays are made of galvanized steel. The thickness of the walls does not matter, because... for copper cables with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm2, this parameter is not standardized. It is advisable to pre-tighten the cables into corrugation or protect the places of turns and possible contacts of the cable insulation with sharp metal edges with corrugation or vinyl chloride tube. Laying metal trays is not an easy operation. It is necessary to partially trim the floor beams with their subsequent strengthening, bypassing load-bearing structures, cleaning sharp edges, sealing ends. To perform all these operations, a variety of tools and tinsmith skills are required. The trays are fastened together with rivets or bolts and nuts. After laying the cables in them, the metal structures are grounded. To do this, stretch a grounding wire, securely screwed to each part of the trays with a screw and nut. The grounding wire is attached to the tubes using steel clamps.
Branches to sockets and switches are made through holes with steel bushings in the ceilings using a regular plastic box. On smooth walls There are no special problems, but on the log it is necessary to create a platform for installing cable ducts and electrical installation products. In order to cut such a support from a previously planed and sanded board, it is first marked with a special tool, which the old masters called a boning. There is no such tool for sale - you will have to make it yourself. The result can be seen in the photo.
Option 3. Completely hidden wiring in a log house.
This case is the most difficult and seems impossible to an inexperienced master. The mains, as in the second option, are made in ceilings, in metal trays. But with climbs the situation is more complicated. The placement of switches seems to be the simplest and most obvious. Because they are usually located next to the door, the rise can be hidden door frame. However, it is not enough to simply hide the wire under the trim. It is necessary to cut out a groove at the end of the logs with the end of a gas or electric saw in which a metal tube is placed. In this case, in terms of ease of use, copper is unrivaled. Because Copper tube is used very limitedly, this does not greatly affect the overall price. A wire is placed in the tube, after which it is bent “in place” using a pipe bender. A hole is drilled in the wall with a crown for a metal socket box. The groove in the end of the logs is connected by a large diameter hole to the socket box. All bends must be smooth, otherwise the copper tube will crush the wire. The most painstaking thing is to create a flat area for the frame of the electrical installation product. Otherwise, the switch will be skewed.

The situation with sockets is more complicated. They are placed where it is convenient for the user, so it is illogical [Laying trays for supply to lamps] to place most sockets near doorways. Here is one way: for supplying [Light junction box with completely hidden wiring. The lines from all lamps and switches converge here. The possibility of control and maintenance is provided.] a groove is sawed into the socket in the underlying logs. A tube with a wire is placed in it. Afterwards, a plug is made from a board of the required width. It is pressed tightly into the groove, filed and sanded. It is advisable to lubricate the plug with wood glue before installation. All chips and irregularities are filled with wood putty to match the color of the wood. After the putty has dried, sanding is repeated. At the end of the board, you can paint on the pattern of the fibers of the log - then after covering the walls with varnish or impregnation, the place for the cable connection will be almost invisible.

Such work requires high qualifications, a variety of skills and tools. It takes the master at least half a working day to prepare a place for one point, so the work is highly regarded. But beauty, as we know, requires sacrifice and considerable expenses.

Avoid placing junction boxes in ceilings and walls, because It is likely that [Blind trays in the underground space] will require maintenance during operation. This means that the connections must be accessible. You can, of course, run a separate cable from the switchboard to each socket, but this will lead to an unjustified increase in material consumption. Sockets can be divided into groups by room and combined with a cable within reasonable limits, you can deepen the socket boxes, install another one in the depths and wire them behind the socket mechanism. It is only undesirable to unsolder and cable sockets allocated for powerful, constant loads: heaters, washing machines and dishwashers, electric stoves, boilers, etc. In these cases, you should pull the wires directly from the switchboard and protect the lines with separate circuit breakers.

Naturally, special attention should be paid to the selection and installation of automatic protection. The switchboard of a large house with extensive wiring can have dozens of elements. These are already familiar circuit breakers and residual current devices, as well as arresters, surge suppressors, phase switches, backup power switching systems, etc. Often, in order to relieve the main panel and reduce cable consumption, additional floor panels are installed in cottages. This also reduces cable consumption and makes it easier to manage the home's energy system.

Do not forget that the main method of protection against electric shock is protective grounding. Therefore, it is imperative that a contour is made on the site re-grounding, and the entire distribution network is three-wire. The choice of grounding system is determined in each specific case and depends on the state of the external network.

Retro wiring in a wooden house

Retro wiring in a wooden house "Retro" and "vintage". These two words alone can cause the heart to skip a beat in a certain category of people endowed with a heightened sense of beauty. These people are consistent in everything, so retro wiring in their eyes represents good taste and originality.

And if the house is built, for example, from rounded logs, and interior decoration is deliberately absent, then retro wiring on rollers will certainly look the most aesthetically pleasing. After all, the plastic cable channel in such a situation will not fit tightly to the wall due to the grooves between the logs, and installing the cable using brackets on combustible structures is prohibited. Let’s keep silent about the dull gray and everyday corrugated pipe.

]]> ]]> It turns out that the choice of retro wiring for installation in a wooden house is quite practically justified.

So, what is retro wiring? Classically, at the beginning of the 20th century, it was performed with two single-core stranded wires twisted in a spiral. The insulation of these wires was single, and they were attached to supporting porcelain insulators (rollers). Branch boxes were not used at all; wire connections were made by twisting, which was hidden under the wire insulation so that the ends did not stick out to the side.

Retro wiring It’s clear that such wiring does not correspond in any way modern requirements fire and electrical safety. Therefore, today it is only possible to imitate old-style wiring and stylize it as retro.

For these purposes, some electricians purchase small plastic or porcelain insulators and twist single-core wires into a common bundle using a drill. Depending on the presence/absence of grounding, the harness may contain two or three wires. During installation, the harness is simply placed on insulators screwed to the wall or ceiling at regular intervals. Before and after the insulator, it is better to put on small pieces of heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) in advance, matching the color of the wire. The tube will ensure reliable installation.

But still, independent winding of retro wires is for those who want to save money. Yes, and choosing a wire whose insulation will have the indices NG (non-flammable) and LS (low smoke emission) for laying into a retro bundle will not be easy. Therefore, it is better to purchase a special factory-made retro wire, specially certified for installation as part of open electrical wiring.

Retro wiring There are rumors that the production of such wire has already been established on the territory of the Russian Federation somewhere in the Moscow region, but Russian retro wire has not yet caught our eye in stores in our country. As a matter of fact, the situation on the market with foreign retro wires is not much better.

Wire and fittings for retro-style electrical wiring usually have to be ordered from Italy. You may not have to go there yourself, but your supplier may well be dealing with Italians.

For example, the companies Fontini and GI Gambarelli produce not only retro wire with a cross-section of 0.75 - 2.5 square meters. mm. with two or three cores, but also rollers for installing wires, as well as sockets, rotary switches, branch boxes and blocks containing a socket and a switch on a common base.

All these electrical wiring elements are stylized as antique, their material is porcelain, and they are made in compliance with all standards fire safety. The sockets, of course, contain a grounding contact. In short, it is possible to carry out retro wiring that meets the highest safety requirements.

There is only one “but”. A roll of retro wire 50 meters long can easily cost seven to eight thousand rubles. A switch or socket will cost one and a half to two thousand rubles. One video costs about 30 rubles (and how many are needed for whole house!). That is, retro wiring will not be cheap for antique lovers and aesthetes, and this must be remembered.

The most interesting thing is that the products of the Salvador company, which also specializes in the production of retro cables and accessories, but located its production in China, are not inferior in price to their Italian counterparts. So savings are hardly possible.

Regardless of where you purchase the retro wire, the structure of each core will be as follows: stranded copper in a double sheath of PVC plastic, covered with artificial non-flammable silk. The color of the outer PVC sheath of each core complies with PUE standards: blue, brown and yellow-green.

The color of the outer silk covering is a matter of personal taste and design. Some people believe that a golden or beige wire matches the color of the wood. But some people think that retro wiring is also an element of the interior, and it should stand out against the background of the walls in color - be, for example, white or so black that it’s simply anthracite.

Retro wiring The color of the wire is matched to the color of the housings of sockets, switches and branch boxes, as well as the color of the insulators (rollers).

Due to the fact that retro wire is very expensive, and also because its maximum cross-section is limited to 2.5 square meters. mm., you should not expect to do all the wiring in retro style. The input cable will not fit into the overall vintage style, it will have to be hidden in a pipe. And if the latter does not fit into the interior, then it can be hidden behind the trim.

You will also have to lay a cable in the pipes to powerful stationary receivers, for example, to electric stove or water heating boiler. Instead of pipes, you can also use a plastic cable channel, matched to the color of the walls. As a cable for stationary electrical receivers, you can use ordinary VVGng, because it will still not be visible even to retro style it will have no relation.

Often, when installing retro wiring in wooden houses, electricians, in agreement with the owner of the premises or designer, find another way to save on expensive wires. That part of the wiring that extends from the input panel and powers the groups can also be done with a regular cable under the ceiling lining in a pipe or simply along the wall in a box. Then it turns out that the retro wire goes directly only from the branch boxes to the sockets, switches and lamps. Often this is enough, since the most noticeable part of the wiring is the one that runs vertically along the walls or goes to the ceiling to the lamps.

To connect the cores of retro wires in branch boxes, you can use two methods:

1. Tin and insulate the ordinary twist. Stranded strands are easily twisted, and if you don’t skimp on solder and don’t forget about flux, the connection will be reliable.

But the resinous mass of dried wood - dangerous object for the appearance of a random spark: can turn into a tragedy due to technological errors or negligence during installation.

Therefore, for installing electrics in a wooden house in a hidden way You can only undertake this if you have basic technical training and have thoroughly studied the rather strict current regulatory documents:

GOST R 50572.1-93;
SNiP 3/01/01-85;
SNiP III-4-80;
SNiP 2.08.01(6.17).
“Rules for the construction of electrical installations” (PUE).

Isn’t it better to entrust this important stage of construction professionals?

Why is hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house so attractive?

Surely aesthetics of walls and ceilings:

there are no wiring elements that violate the design of the room;
sockets and switches recessed into the wall do not cause inconvenience when arranging furniture;
the wall surface is easier to use for wallpapering;
correctly executed wiring increases the fire safety level of the building;
ease of replacing the cable in the pipe;
less risk of mechanical damage to wiring;
protruding electrical fittings do not collect dust and do not become a support for cobwebs.

What makes hidden electrical wiring an object of increased danger?

Inaccessibility for constant inspection of the insulation condition and replacement of areas that have undergone aging and destruction (microdamage can cause a short circuit);
complications in the work of adding new points to the electrical circuit after time has passed;
technical complexity of installation, effective only during the construction of the house;
the need to create false structures that can hide insulating pipes;
high cost of work and materials;
costs for special tools.

What are the features of installing hidden wiring in a wooden house?

You must be prepared for the fact that according to the wiring diagram you will be pulling not only wires and cables, but also meters of steel or copper pipes - a prerequisite for insulation. In a wooden house, not even a centimeter of wire should come into contact with the wood. Pulling a cable or wire through a tube is a troublesome task that requires patience.
To install insulating pipes into the body of the wall, you will have to tap, drill, and cut out a place for wiring. This work is dusty, dirty, labor-intensive.
Vertical channels are drilled while laying the crowns of the log house, horizontal ones (with a special drill) - after completion of the construction of the walls.
A conductor is placed in the holes - a wire with which the cable will be pulled.
All installation sites for wiring elements and transitions from one room to another must be well insulated with metal boxes, sleeves, “glasses”, linings, asbestos wrapping or insulation with alabaster plaster.
The number of main channels becomes significant: for a large number, a corrugated pipe of quite large diameter will be required as insulation, which is difficult to hide in a log wall.
The importance of the residual current device (RCD) is increasing; several such devices can be installed in hidden wiring: to disconnect the external circuit, the internal circuit and the circuit with the highest power load.

Rules for performing internal wiring in a wooden house

Electrical wiring is carried out only on the basis of a diagram agreed upon with specialists, with a minimum number of turns and bends.
The electric main is laid exclusively in non-combustible materials.
During installation, priority is given to fire safety objectives, and aesthetic wishes are not so important.
It is advisable to lay channels in the structural recesses of door and window openings, under baseboards, overhead lining of the ceiling.
Corrugated pipes used as channel insulation are protected on all sides with asbestos gaskets during installation. For the same purposes, taking into account the estimated power of the wiring, alabaster or cement plaster, concreting.
Galvanized insulating pipes and ducts are connected using threads and welding. Sharp edges are protected with plastic plugs. Copper protective elements in the connection are flared.
The thickness of the pipe walls is selected taking into account the cross-section of the wire strands (example: 2.8 mm - for aluminum core in 10mm2, or copper in 4mm2).
The cable (together with the insulating layer) inside the insulating pipe should occupy up to 40% of the internal volume.
The insulation resistance is measured twice: before pulling through the pipe and after.
Distribution boxes must remain freely accessible.
For hidden wiring, wires and cables with triple insulation coating and marking “ng” are used.

Wiring in the ceiling of a wooden house

To the advantages wooden floors can be attributed:

high load-bearing capacity;
vibration resistance;
maintaining the geometry of the structure;
decline total weight designs;
construction speed;
versatility of use;
Suitable for floor screeds.

Flaw there will be one, and it will be revealed during the fire:

wooden floors quickly catch open fire;
have a tendency to collapse.

What should I do?

Cable protection with pipes.

Therefore, there are no concessions for electrical distribution across floors: only the placement of cables in pipes. By the way, electrical distribution over ceilings is the most convenient way to install hidden wiring. In this case, the grooves for pipes to switches and sockets are descended from the main cables.

Metal tray for complex floor layouts.

True, if the change in direction of the wires is very frequent and at different angles, then it is more rational to use blank copper trays with covers instead of pipes. You can lay out several wires in them at once and in any direction. They perfectly isolate the wiring from the wood of the floors and are attached to each other using rivets. In order to reduce the cost of work, such trays are also made of galvanized steel.

The process of laying trays is complicated by the need to take into account and bypass structural elements at home or trim them and then strengthen them. In this case, you cannot do without skills in performing tin work.

It will be necessary to ground each tray separately. When turning, the trays can form an angle that is dangerous for the integrity of the cable, so corrugated insulation is placed on it in this place.

Tray insulation for hidden wiring can also be used with inside ceilings, subsequently covering the entire structure of the false ceiling with plasterboard or tongue and groove boards treated with fire retardants.

Taking risks is not always a noble cause.

The most primitive installation method is electrical wiring on floors in layers of alabaster or cement plaster, when one layer is laid down, and after laying the wire, 2-3 cm of a new layer are added. This method is very risky for fire safety (due to the likelihood of cracking) and is rarely used.

The type of cable for a wooden house will be different from that used in urban areas.
The NYM cable is most suitable; it has triple insulation and a sheath made of non-flammable material (polyvinyl chloride).
The greatest reliability in protection electrical network against emergency failures, difavtomats combine 2 protective devices - automatic switch and RCD (residual current device).
It is worth remembering: grounding each distribution box and each pipe will not be superfluous.
The pipe connection must be reliable: use welding or soldering.
When choosing pipes, give preference to copper pipes: they bend better and easily take the shape of the prepared gutter.
To protect the cable from damage when pulling, you must use plastic end sleeves.
The shrinkage of the house should be taken into account to prevent pinching of the main.
When covering walls with clapboard or wooden wallpaper you can do without drilling the walls by passing the main distribution pipes through the hollowed out grooves.
You can combine hidden wiring with open wiring: in places where wires are connected to sockets or switches.

Hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house is a successful combination of modern electrical wiring technologies and a healthy microclimate created by natural materials. However, correctly performing hidden installation of conductors in a house made of rounded logs is not an easy task; only specialists with appropriate qualifications can carry out such work. Otherwise, you will have to make do with installing the cable in an open way.

Advantages and disadvantages of hidden wiring

Why do many people want to make hidden wiring in a country house or city log house, and not the simpler open one? Due to a number of advantages.

If the wiring in a wooden house is installed correctly with your own hands, then:

is improving appearance walls and ceilings, wiring elements do not violate the design of the room;
sockets and switches do not protrude above the wall surface and do not cause inconvenience when rearranging furniture;
the fire safety of the structure is increased due to the absence of cables on the surface of the walls, the risk of mechanical damage to conductors is reduced;
the process of decorative treatment of walls, in particular wallpapering, is simplified;
protruding elements of electrical wiring do not collect dust and dirt.

But installing hidden wires in houses made of rounded logs is associated with certain difficulties and dangers:

there is no possibility of regularly checking the condition of electrical cable insulation and replacing damaged areas (and damage, even microscopic, can cause a short circuit);
the difficulty of adding new connection points to the system;
high cost of materials used and installation work;
the possibility of laying hidden wiring only at the stage of construction of wooden houses.

Since a fire can occur in a timber room even if a small spark appears, installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house must be carried out in strict accordance with a number of regulatory documents: PUE, GOST R 50572.1-93, SNiP III-4-80, SNiP 3/01/01-85 and SNiP 2.08.01(6.17). Following the above requirements is not a whim or reinsurance, but a necessary condition for home safety.

Features of installing hidden electrical wiring

Installation of hidden wiring in a wooden house has a number of features, and the owner of a timber residential structure needs to be prepared for them. Thus, you can proceed to the installation process only after drawing up and recording the electrical wiring diagram, as well as after agreeing on this diagram with specialists. The circuit must be designed in such a way that the number of turns and bends in the electrical cable is minimal. In this case, priority should always be given to fire safety rather than aesthetic issues.

Electrical wiring is not carried out inside logs without reliable protection. The main line is laid only on non-flammable surfaces (in most cases the cable is placed in a copper or steel pipe). Access to distribution boxes must always remain free.

Contact of the conductor with the beam is not allowed. This means that channels need to be formed in the walls for wiring, and then pipes must be inserted into these channels. After this, the cable must be pulled through the pipes. To facilitate this process, an additional conductor wire is used. Vertical channels for wiring are made during the laying of the log house, and horizontal channels are made after the construction of the walls is completed. The insulation resistance measurement is performed twice: before pulling the cable through the pipe and after it.

In places where electrical elements are installed, as well as in areas where wires pass from one room to another, it is necessary to install insulating structures: metal boxes, sleeves, linings, etc. Asbestos plaster can also be used as insulation.

The connection between the insulating pipe and the box is carried out using threading or welding. The sharp edges of the structure are covered with plastic plugs. To protect the wire from damage while being pulled through the pipeline, it is recommended to use plastic end sleeves.

The number of channels laid is of great importance. If there are a lot of them, then it is necessary to use a large diameter protective pipe, and it can be difficult to fit into timber walls. The importance of residual current devices (RCDs) or difavtomats (devices that combine circuit breakers and RCDs) is increasing. For hidden wiring, there should be several of them: to disconnect the external and internal circuits, as well as the circuit with the maximum load. It would be a good idea to ground each pipe and junction box.

To facilitate the installation process of the highway, craftsmen often combine hidden wiring with open wiring. For example, cabling to switches and sockets can be done in an open way. The use of combined wiring is considered acceptable from the point of view of safety standards.

What should you not do?

Many craftsmen (especially beginners) who install wiring in a wooden house make a serious and dangerous mistake - they lay the wire directly through wooden structures. The reasons for this error are the hope for the strength of the insulating coating of the conductor, as well as reliance on foreign (American, Finnish) experience.

In a number Western countries hidden wiring in the house is pulled directly through the holes in the logs. However, in these cases, double grounding is ensured, which minimizes the risk of fire. In addition, in the west, grounding wires without braid are used, due to which the RCD is triggered if the insulation is damaged on any section of the route. Our grounding cable is insulated and provides effective protection only the end consumer.

Various unpredictable processes occur inside the wiring channels: temperature and humidity changes, dust accumulation, various deformations (especially when the house shrinks). These processes can cause microdamage to wire insulation. Also, breakdown often occurs between parallel cables under increased loads. All this can cause a short circuit and fire. If the wiring is not fenced off from wooden covering, then a fire occurs.

Please remember that when performing hidden installation The cable must not be laid over wooden bases without any protective structures, as well as in corrugated pipes, plastic boxes and metal sleeves located directly on combustible surfaces.

By hiding the cable in smooth or corrugated plastic pipes, the technician exposes the power line to the risk of damage by rodents. In addition, such coatings are not resistant to possible mechanical damage (for example, a person decided to hang a picture on the wall and forgot where the wiring was, as a result of which he pierced the pipe with a nail).

But the main reason why plastic pipes, and also steel corrugated hoses are not used to protect the electric main - this is the inability to withstand the temperature that occurs when conductors are short-circuited (it can reach 5000 degrees).

The walls of steel corrugated hoses, unlike the walls of steel pipes, are very thin and are not designed for this level of heating. The channels through which hidden wiring can be laid in a wooden house must have localization ability, that is, the ability to withstand the short circuit process for the time required for the fire to extinguish on its own.

However, there are cases when the use of a corrugated pipe or box made of non-flammable polyvinyl chloride (PVC-ng) is still possible. For example, if the pipe is closed on all sides with gaskets made of fireproof and non-heat-conducting materials, which include alabaster, concrete, cement plaster. The thickness of the protective gasket depends on the power of the wiring.

Some craftsmen try to simplify their work by resorting to the most primitive installation method - laying a route in layers of cement or alabaster plaster. In this case, one layer of material is placed down, and then, after laying the cable, two or three more layers are applied. This method does not meet fire safety requirements because the plaster absorbs moisture and may crack over time, losing its insulating properties.

Route design

Work on installing hidden electrical wiring begins with preparing a diagram of the future route of electrical cable lines. The drawing up of the diagram must be carried out in strict accordance with the requirements of the PUE and taking into account future shrinkage of the house (the route must be designed in such a way that when the house shrinks, the highway does not become pinched).

The number of bends and turns should be kept to a minimum. If the installation of electrical wiring is difficult due to the architectural features of the building or the presence of communications inside the walls, then special steel or copper junction boxes are installed in difficult areas. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that there are as few similar boxes on the highway as possible, because each extra link weakens the stability of the chain. In addition, the boxes cannot be covered with ceilings and decorative elements, as they make it difficult to access the devices during maintenance, control, and measurements.

The installation depth of the pipeline for the electrical cable must be such that the strength of the walls and ceilings is not compromised. The location of junction boxes and bends must be calculated so that, if necessary, it is possible to replace wires in a faulty area without dismantling or damaging wooden structures.

Selection of protective pipes

How to make hidden electrical wiring in timber houses Right? Only using steel or copper boxes and pipes. Steel products are easily cut into fragments of the required length, and are also connected in many ways: soldering, welding, tees, threaded couplings. The corrosion resistance of such products is increased by coating them with protective paint.

The price of a steel pipe is comparable to the cost of a high-quality corrugated hose. Copper pipes are more expensive, but they are easier to install and are almost not subject to negative impacts external environment. They are used if you need to lay out a complex branched electric main, because they can be bent in any direction without the use of special tools.

The thickness of the pipe walls depends on the cross-section of the wire used. If the diameter of the copper conductor core does not exceed 2.5 mm 2, then the pipe wall thickness should be 2.5 mm or more. For a core with a diameter of 4 mm 2 the wall thickness should reach 2.8 mm, 6-10 mm 2 - 3.2 mm, 16 mm 2 - 3.5 mm, 25-35 mm 2 - 4 mm. The thickness of the cable used (including insulation) must be no more than 40% of the internal diameter of the protective pipe.

Selecting an electrical conductor

Conductors marked VVGng (A) and VVGng-P (A) are intended for laying hidden electrical routes through wooden houses. These are cables with solid copper cores (the number of cores is from 3 to 5). These products have double insulation:

The inner layer is made of PVC, insulating each core and having a standard color coding.
External non-flammable protective shell made of composite plastic. It is characterized by high strength and flexibility, allowing you to pull the conductor long length along the pipe using a special steel cable.

Such wires can be used at ambient temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees. The insulation has anti-corrosion properties, it is resistant to chemicals and temperature changes. The characteristics of these products are determined by GOST R IEC 60332-3-22.

Conductors VVGng LS, VVGng-P LS are not inferior in their properties to the cables described above. In addition, they do not emit hydrogen chloride and opaque substances harmful to humans (this is evidenced by the LS index).

You can also hide the NYM cable in a wooden wall, manufactured according to GOST 22483. It consists of 3-5 copper cores and triple insulation:

Each core has a PVC sheath with standard color coding.
All cores together are covered with a protective polyolefin composite.
The structure is enclosed in a non-flammable PVC shell.

This electrical conductor is manufactured using German VDE technology. In wooden houses, the use of cables intended for use in urban areas is prohibited.

Laying wiring on ceilings

Many residents of wooden houses are wondering whether it is possible to avoid such a complex process as installing pipes inside the walls when laying hidden wiring? There is one option that can significantly simplify the installation process. This is the arrangement of hidden electrical wiring ceilings in the attic. The same requirements must be met fire safety, as when laying a highway inside the walls. Wiring in the attic is insulated using metal pipes or trays. Only the wiring to sockets and switches is carried out through the grooves.

In most cases, the master wires the floors using steel or copper pipes, but if the wires change direction frequently and at different angles, then it is advisable to use copper or galvanized steel trays with covers. They can accommodate several wires at the same time in any direction. They perfectly isolate the electrical cable from the wood from which the ceilings are made.

The trays are connected to each other using riveting. In this case, it is necessary to ensure grounding of each tray separately. When turning, trays often form corners that can damage the cable insulation, so corrugated insulation must be placed on the cable in appropriate areas. Trays can be used when laying wiring both from the outside and from the inside of the ceiling. In the second case, the structure can be covered with plasterboard or tongue-and-groove boards.

Installation of switches and sockets

If the material from which the house is built is wood, then special attention should be paid to the installation of sockets and switches. In the places where they are installed, special sockets should be drilled into which protective metal boxes and are securely connected to the pipes through which the cable is supplied. Then the installed devices are placed in the boxes.

It is very important to ensure reliable connection pipes and boxes into a single whole; only in this case will it be possible to properly ground the structure. Boxes and pipes can be connected by welding or soldering; in this case, the most reliable contact between the parts of the pipeline is ensured, and the joints are resistant to mechanical stress and corrosion.

Another method that is used for steel pipes is connecting to the box by screwing in nuts. In this case, there must be threads at the ends of the pipe, and after tightening the nuts tightly, they must be additionally fixed and protected from corrosion.

Recommended protection class for technological and distribution boxes– no lower than IP-54. Such structures are protected from the penetration of household and industrial dust, as well as splashes of water.

Despite the abundance of modern building materials for the construction of houses, wood and structures made from it still remain a popular material in the construction of private households and summer cottages. And any modern home cannot do without a variety of household electrical appliances and auxiliary mechanisms that have electric drive. Considering the fact that wood is a flammable material, hidden wiring in a wooden house must be done with special care. Let's look at the issues that you should pay attention to first.

Installing electrical wiring in a wooden house with your own hands requires knowledge of certain provisions set out in the “Rules for Electrical Wiring” (PUE) and some skills in working with tools. First of all, the PUE obliges the installation of electrical wiring in such a way that will ensure safety, eliminate short circuits and the possibility of fire. After all, as experience shows, it is violation of the requirements of the PUE when carrying out such work with your own hands that can lead to a fire, damage to property and harm to the health of people living in the house.

Therefore, the installation of hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house, according to the requirements of the PUE, should be carried out only in metal pipes that have sufficient wall thickness to prevent their destruction during the operation of the house.

According to the requirements of the PUE, only steel or copper pipes can be used for installation of electrical wiring. Pipes must have thick walls. This precaution will help avoid damage to the electrical wiring: if necessary, hammer a nail into the wall or make a hole in it. For example, in order to hang a picture or secure a shelf.

What are the features

The peculiarities of installing hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house are due to the increased flammability of the building material. This should be kept in mind when laying wires yourself. It is not for nothing that the PUE requirements provide for these purposes only solid metal pipes - steel or copper. The use of all kinds of corrugated metal hoses or similar corrugations made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) does not provide the required fire protection and does not comply with the provisions of the PUE. Let's try to figure out why this happens.

Wooden houses are usually located in rural areas, outside the city limits. And this implies the presence of many different rodents, including mice, rats and the like. And if in the warm season they mainly live in natural conditions, where they have enough food, then in winter time the situation is different. In winter, rodents look for places that are warmer and have something to eat.

Therefore, it can join house mice a large number of their field relatives. And for the teeth of rodents, the protective shell of PVC corrugations is not an obstacle. They chew it off without difficulty, thus getting to the electrical wiring, the insulation of which is also a delicacy for them. This may result in a short circuit and fire. For a fire in a wooden house, one spark is enough to ignite wood dust, which is always present inside wooden structures.

According to the requirements of the PUE, using a corrugated metal hose for installation of electrical wiring is not an option, which is so tempting due to its low cost compared to thick-walled pipes. Please take this into account when doing your own work. If a short circuit occurs, the thin wall of a metal corrugated hose can burn out in a couple of seconds. This situation will again lead to wood ignition and fire.

Another requirement of the PUE, in addition to laying electrical wiring in metal pipes, which cannot be ignored when doing the work yourself, is the mandatory grounding of these pipes. If a short circuit occurs in the wiring, this measure will prevent electric shock. Therefore, all metal pipes used for electrical wiring must have electrical contact with each other.

Another feature is the need to ensure the tightness of metal pipes for electrical wiring. For this purpose, joining steel pipes to each other must be done using welded or threaded connections, and copper pipes - by soldering. Mounting boxes and socket boxes must be metal and have a sealed contact with the pipes suitable for them. The wire coming out of the pipes is insulated with sealant to prevent air from entering the pipes. This is another precaution against fire. In the event of an accidental short circuit and fire of the braid, the lack of air circulation in the pipes will lead to the rapid burnout of oxygen and the cessation of the fire.

Video “Installation for a house made of timber”

Direct installation

Before starting installation with your own hands, regardless of which house it is being carried out in - a frame house or one made of rounded logs, you need to make an installation diagram with markings for laying pipes. This diagram indicates the exact location of the pipes on the walls, installation locations mounting boxes, sockets and switches. On the diagram it is necessary to mark the entry point of the supply power cable and make sure that it can be laid through the wall using a thick-walled metal pipe. A metal power panel should be placed nearby, which will contain a meter, circuit breakers (PD) and at least one socket.

All electrical wiring in wooden houses, framed or built from rounded logs, must be carried out with a wire with a copper core and non-flammable insulation. This is also one of the requirements of the PUE, which cannot be neglected if you do the installation yourself. This provision also applies to the power input cable that supplies electricity to the house. And the supply of electricity to the house can be done with an aluminum wire that has a special braid that is resistant to precipitation and exposure sun rays. The cross-section of such a wire is usually taken to be at least 16 square meters. mm. The connection of this wire to the input power cable must be reliable. Regular twisting of wires is not allowed. It is recommended to use special protective hermetic clamps, which ensure reliable contact and prevent corrosion of the wires.

So, the wiring diagram is ready. We enter the power cable through a thick-walled metal pipe and mount a power panel next to it. Then, following the instructions wiring diagram, we prepare metal pipes on site. Steel pipes can be connected to each other using welding or threaded connections. Copper pipes can simply be soldered together. The corners of turns should have smooth roundings. This will make it easier to subsequently pull the wires through them using a special cable and will help avoid possible damage to the insulation from sharp corners.

When performing DIY installation in frame house this work is not very difficult. In a frame house, the walls are sheathed decorative material made from lining, block house or other similar materials. Therefore, all necessary communications can be easily hidden during the construction of such a house. Holes for sockets and switches are easily cut out after fixing the pipes to the walls.

In houses built from rounded logs, the installation process is a more complex task. A rounded log is construction material, made by machining ordinary logs, in order to give them the same diameter. Thus, this material does not have internal voids in which pipes for installing wires could be hidden. The log needs to be sawed, milled or otherwise in an accessible way channels (grooves). This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires certain skills and tools.

It should be noted that connecting wires to each other with only one twist is unacceptable for safety reasons. The contacts must be carefully soldered or special clamps must be used for this purpose. All contacts must be carefully insulated.

Work rules

When carrying out work, it is necessary to comply with basic safety requirements. Firstly, when connecting pipes to each other using welding, welding work must be carried out on outdoors. This requirement also applies to the process of cutting pipes using a grinder. Even a small spark hitting a wooden surface can cause a fire.

Secondly, after pulling wires and cables through the installation pipes, it is necessary to check the integrity of the insulation for short circuits. A tester can be used for this purpose. This precaution will save you from possible troubles.

If finances allow you to purchase copper pipes, which are more expensive than steel pipes, then you should give preference to the former. When doing the installation yourself, this will make the task much easier. Copper pipes bend easily, so it is easy to give them the desired configuration. Steel pipes are not easy to bend. In some cases, it is impossible to do without heating them with a blowtorch or other means.

When connecting copper pipes to each other, an ordinary powerful soldering iron will suffice, but for steel pipes you will need welding or threading for connection using couplings.

If your choice is steel pipes, it is desirable to have galvanized inner surface, which will eliminate corrosion due to condensation formation. As a last resort, you can resort to painting the inside of the pipes with a special anti-corrosion paint.

If ordinary pipes are used without protective coating, it is recommended to give the pipes a slight slope when the wiring is horizontal. This will allow drops of condensation to drain.