How to make a greenhouse from a profile with your own hands. Do-it-yourself greenhouse made from a profile pipe - drawings, photos and video instructions Do-it-yourself greenhouse with a house made from a square pipe

A profile pipe as a material for making a greenhouse is The best decision, since the result is a structure that is highly reliable and durable compared to other similar shelters.

If you choose wood as a greenhouse material, this will lead to some unpleasant moments. For example, wood is susceptible to rotting, and it also becomes deformed when there is a lack or excess of moisture.

Most often, when assembling greenhouses from profile pipe give preference to products that have rectangular section. This design is much easier to assemble, which also applies to the process of attaching polycarbonate. At the same time, the profile pipe does not exclude the use polyethylene film when installing a greenhouse. The only thing is that it is not resistant to influence sunlight, wind and frost, so it will have to be changed every year.

Greenhouses with a pipe frame are distinguished by their variability of design:

Rectangular, characterized by the presence of a gable roof. The appearance of such greenhouses correlates with the shape of a conventional country house. Their dignity is great inner space, which makes it possible to grow tall plants anywhere in the greenhouse, and not just in its center.
Rectangular, defined as tunnel. They have a flat roof, providing this, on the one hand, with savings on profile pipes, which are quite expensive, and on the other, determining the occurrence of a number of problems. For example, horizontal roof creates conditions when snow does not have the opportunity to roll off it. As a result, the heat of the greenhouse leads to snow melting, ice is formed and there is a risk of damage to the polycarbonate due to increased pressure.
Arched, which are the most optimal in terms of consumption of building materials. At the same time, the design features require the presence of special pipe benders, with the help of which the profile pipe is given an arc shape.

The most widely used materials for assembling greenhouses are those with a cross section of 20 by 20 mm and 20 by 40 mm. The latter, in this case, have a fair margin of safety, but are distinguished by greater mass and a higher price.

In this regard, it is unreasonable to assemble a greenhouse only from pipes bigger size. It is much more effective to use them only for installation as wall supports and installation of rafters. All other elements of the greenhouse can be assembled from a 20 by 20 mm pipe.

Structural elements

Greenhouse structures differ from each other in shape, materials and technologies used. Greenhouses that have one or two slopes, a tent shape or an arch are most popular. From a design point of view, greenhouse structures can be constructed in stationary form, when there is no possibility of their dismantling, and in the so-called mobile, allowing disassembly of the greenhouse for the purpose of storing it in any room in winter.

As for the structural elements, their set is as follows:

Foundation- part of the structure that serves as its base, which is necessary to provide stability by distributing the resulting loads. Suitable for making foundations various materials, for example wood or brick. The best option for constructing a base for a greenhouse is to build a strip foundation in the form of a single monolith, which must be embedded to a depth of at least 80 cm, but ensuring that the freezing point of the soil will be above this mark.
Frame- part of the structure, defined as a load-bearing part, the assembly of which is carried out using wooden elements and made of PVC or steel. The strength of the frame is the stability of the entire structure. Depending on the chosen material, the pros and cons of this part of the structure manifest themselves. The choice of wood for making the frame significantly reduces the complexity of installation, but is due to the disadvantage of a short service life. Even treating wood with water-repellent compounds does little to improve the durability of the frame compared to a similar structure made of steel. At the same time, the steel frame, although characterized by a long service life and the ability to withstand heavy loads, is susceptible to corrosion.
PVC frame– strength, flexibility, tightness and safety. This material has a higher price compared to those already mentioned. It is very reliable, which is ensured by stiffening ribs in the form of arches, which are installed every 2 meters. The result is a streamlined shape that eliminates the retention of precipitation on the surface. Assembling a frame from a profile pipe is a low-labor activity that does not require the use of special equipment.
Profile pipe- a durable structural element that provides additional convenience, which is manifested in the fact that lighting, an irrigation system, etc. can be mounted on its inside.
Coating– protection from negative influences environment, the manufacturing materials of which are usually glass, polycarbonate and film. Fastening is carried out on the frame of the greenhouse. The optimal coating is polycarbonate, which is a reliable barrier to cold air, but does not prevent the passage of sunlight. The coating of this material gives the greenhouse an attractive appearance and ensures durability of use at a relatively low costs for its purchase.
Accessories- everything that is included in the composition fastening system. Its selection depends on the design of the greenhouse and the covering material. If you plan to use polycarbonate, then you will need thermal washers, connecting profiles and self-tapping screws necessary for attaching this material to the metal. A special profile is used to fasten polycarbonate sheets. And if it's aluminum, then it's perfect option, but quite expensive. It is equipped with rubber seals that provide the required level of waterproofing.

Instructions for assembling a greenhouse

The first stage of installation involves preparing the foundation. For this you can use brick, concrete or other similar materials. Due to the fact that the structure being installed is lightweight, the sufficient depth for pouring the foundation is from 20 to 30 cm. To make it convenient to attach the frame in the future, at the stage of preparing the foundation, you need to lay down the parts for such fasteners.

The greenhouse assembly steps are as follows:

Profiles for vertical posts are cut.
The racks are welded in accordance with the drawing, maintaining the verticality of their location.
The upper rim is fixed, which is a pipe that runs along the tops of the installed racks.
Installation parts installed between the risers are being prepared.
They are then connected by installing crossbars.
Beams are welded onto the roof and secured using crossbars.
The door is assembled and hung.

The given option for installing a greenhouse is not the only acceptable one, since there are many other solutions. For example, this process can be approached from the perspective of separately assembling large parts of the greenhouse, which are then installed in place. To do this, you need to collect entire sections from 2 to 3 meters in size on the ground.

Attention! Assembling greenhouse parts on the ground involves choosing the maximum flat surface to eliminate the possibility of misalignment. In this case, it is advisable to periodically apply the assembled section to the future installation site, which is necessary to maintain dimensional accuracy.

The installation of the slopes can be approached in the same way, that is, they are assembled separately and secured together during the actual installation. The choice of a specific installation method largely depends on how many people are involved in assembling the greenhouse. It is advisable to weld the prepared parts of the windows and doors immediately.

Advice! To prepare the pentagonal piece that is the roof post structure, you can take a long pipe and make a few cuts on one side and then bend it accordingly.

Arched greenhouse

To assemble an arched greenhouse, you need a device such as a pipe bender, which makes it possible to bend the metal at the desired angle. The presence of this device is desirable, but not mandatory, since there are a sufficient number of ways to do without this type of equipment, for example:

take the blank from the pipe;
make shallow cuts on one side;
bend the profile to the required angle.

Advice! To make bending the pipe easier and to obtain a smoother bend, make cuts more often.

A method is also available that involves calcining the workpiece with sand. This technique is considered folk, but effective. Calcined sand is placed inside the workpiece, on both sides of which plugs are installed. After this, the pipe bends relatively easily due solely to the strength of the hands, that is, in this case additional accessories are not provided.

The prepared arcs are attached in compliance with the following procedure:

The frontal arch is fixed to the base strictly vertically.
Two posts are installed on the pediment, forming a frame for the door.
The next arch is also mounted.
The sides of the arches are fastened with appropriate parts.
Arcs are installed.
A pipe is mounted in the upper part, which is welded to each arc.
To give greater stability assembled structure additional fasteners are installed.

Attention! It is optimal when the assembly arched greenhouse starts on both sides, as this ensures greater stability of the structure.

Polycarbonate fasteners

This will be the last step. To reduce the amount of excess of this material, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the workpieces correspond as closely as possible to what was drawn on the diagram. When installing polycarbonate, you need to consider the following points:

the sheets should be laid so that the side on which the film is applied faces upward, since only this position provides protection from ultraviolet radiation;
in order to eliminate the possibility of moisture getting inside the greenhouse, the sheets should be fastened using self-tapping screws equipped with a rubberized cap;
the sheets are joined using metal plates of small thickness;
sheet joints require sealing using sealant or tape;
After installing the polycarbonate, you need to remove the film.

Strengthening the frame from a profile pipe

Today the market offers square profile pipes with a polymer applied to the surface. This powder coating provides additional protection, but the cost of the finished product increases by about 20%. Meanwhile, no such coating is capable of giving the greenhouse the additional strength required in situations where heavy loads arise, for example, as a result of snowfall.

To strengthen the frame of the greenhouse, supports are required to be installed under the ridge and side walls. Installation of such elements is carried out both inside and outside the greenhouse. If the covering material is not dismantled during cold weather, then wooden supports can be used to prevent destruction of the greenhouse structure.

Price

A greenhouse based on a profile pipe with a height of 2.1 m and a width of 3 m is determined by a fairly wide price range, which depends on the length of the frame:

9000–20000 rub. – without polycarbonate;
15,000 –30,000 rub. – with polycarbonate.

Drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes

Failed designs

Today, almost every summer resident wants to equip his farm with a stationary greenhouse or have a collapsible greenhouse, since it is no longer possible to do without this structure. It makes it possible to grow and harvest crops all year round. Often, a profile pipe is used for the frame of a stationary greenhouse. This choice is due to the high strength, durability and reliability of the material compared to other alternatives.

Varieties of greenhouse designs with a frame made of profile pipes

A greenhouse with a frame made of profile pipes can be built in one of the popular designs presented below:

Rectangular type with pitched roof.
Dutch type.
Rectangular type with flat roof.
Arched type.
Pyramid type.

Advantages of a rectangular type with a pitched roof

Structures with a sloping roof have the main advantage: a large internal volume, which allows you to grow tall plants throughout the entire area of the greenhouse. The disadvantage of this design is the high consumption of rather expensive material for constructing the frame and performing the cladding.

Dutch type

Greenhouses made in the Dutch style have the same qualities as rectangular ones gable greenhouses, however characteristic feature are the expanded elements of the wall frame in relation to the base. This solution guarantees increased stability of the greenhouse structure.

Rectangular type with flat roof

The positive aspect of this type of greenhouse is the savings on expensive profile pipes, but the negative aspect is that a structure with no slope of the slope is subject to large temporary loads and other negative consequences from natural precipitation. For example, snow can accumulate on a horizontal surface, as a result of its melting, ice will form and constantly accumulate, creating a load that can destroy the polycarbonate cladding.

Arched type

This option is economically optimal, but to make an arched greenhouse you need special pipe bending devices, thanks to which pipes with a profile cross-section take on the shape of an arc.

Pyramid type

The advantage of this design solution is to minimize the consumption of material on the frame and cladding. In addition, thanks to the pyramidal design, the greenhouse is more illuminated by the sun and is less susceptible to negative impacts from natural precipitation, i.e., probable dynamic loads are minimized. The downside is the small interior space.

Basic structural elements for making a greenhouse from profile pipes

Each greenhouse may differ in shape, size, mobility and approaches used for its construction, but structural elements, which make up the greenhouse, are usually similar in material. All greenhouses consist of the following structural elements:

Foundation.
Frame.
Translucent shell.
Fastening accessories.

The need for a greenhouse foundation and frame

Foundation – the most important part of any structure, performing a load-bearing function. It ensures the sustainability of the greenhouse. In accordance with this, the material must be of high quality, but the decision on its use must be rational, i.e. suitable for a lightweight and mobile design pile foundation, and a large, heavy and stationary structure must stand on a monolithic belt-type foundation.

Frame – an element with the help of which the basic form of a structure is created. It consists of a material that can provide the required rigidity to the entire greenhouse structure. Metal profile pipes are perfect for making a frame, since the range of this material allows you to implement any engineering solution.

Selection of translucent shell and fittings

Translucent shell – protective coating for greenhouse plants from negative impacts environment. The following can be used as cladding material:

film;
glass or polycarbonate.

Polycarbonate is the best option for covering a greenhouse. This is justified by the fact that, in addition to transmitting sunlight, its hollow structure serves as an excellent obstacle to cold air. This material has a solid appearance, a relatively long service life and low cost.

Fastening fittings - the material that is needed for high-quality fastening sheathing. The choice of fittings depends on the type of structure of the structure and the coating material. For polycarbonate you need:

heat-resistant washers;
connecting strips;
special screws.

To bind polycarbonate sheets, a special aluminum profile is used, as it is ideal for this material. Profile is complete rubber seal to provide required level.

Preparatory stage of greenhouse manufacturing

Before you start creating a greenhouse from a profile pipe, you need to choose the place where the structure will be located. Criterias of choice:

Soil and relief.
Illumination.
Heat retention.

Soil and relief. The type of soil determines what kind of foundation is needed for the greenhouse. An excellent option is an elevated and dry place with sandy soil. In lowlands with clay soil types it accumulates excess moisture, and this contributes to waterlogging, which can negatively affect the supporting structures of the greenhouse.

Illumination. The key condition for placing a greenhouse made of a profile pipe is which side is best to place it to the south. The optimal solution will be the choice of the long side of the greenhouse. This placement of the structure will minimize the reflection of sunlight from and will contribute to greater penetration inside.

Heat retention. The entrance door to the greenhouse should be placed in its end part. It is better to choose the door width according to the standard 700–800 mm, and the height in accordance with the size of the greenhouse itself. If you plan to build a capital structure from a profile pipe, then it is better to provide a vestibule in which you can store tools. This solution will provide an opportunity to better retain heat when opening the door to the greenhouse.

Clearing and marking the area, laying the foundation

Before constructing the foundation, the area under the greenhouse must be cleared of debris and the top layer of soil must be removed. Then, to mark the contour of the future greenhouse, you need to drive wooden pegs into the corners and pull a marking rope along them.

Foundation installation procedure:

for a pile type of foundation, pin holes in the ground are needed, and for a strip foundation, a trench is needed along the entire contour of the future greenhouse;
the depth of the holes or trench should be below the soil freezing mark;
as formwork, for the pile version, you can use asbestos pipes;
the gaps between the formwork and the ground must be filled with gravel and compacted;
Concrete is poured inside the resulting form and metal parts are laid to connect the frame to the foundation.

Assembly and installation of a greenhouse from profile pipes

To assemble the structure, you need to make the power elements of its body in accordance with the greenhouse drawing. The number of such elements must correspond to the number of spans in the frame.

Assembly, as a rule, begins with the end spans of the body. Sections of profile pipe can be welded together or bolted together using angles, tees and couplings. However, welding gives a more reliable result. All spans of the frame are connected to the embedded parts of the foundation.

After the greenhouse body has been completely installed, you can begin covering it with polycarbonate sheets:

the coating is fixed using screws with thermal washers;
all joints between the sheets of coating must be coated with silicone;
the gap between the sheathing and the foundation must be filled with cement-sand mortar.

When installing the sheathing, you need to take into account the following point: polycarbonate can withstand dynamic loads very poorly, so horizontal placement of this material is not recommended.

Independent cold bending of profile pipes

Arched greenhouses made of profile pipes for personal plots They are more resistant to strong gusts of wind and, due to their streamlining, eliminate the accumulation of snow. Creation arched structures accompanied by the production of frames for greenhouses from profile pipes bent into an arc. To do this, you can turn to professionals with special equipment or bend the pipe yourself using improvised means. To improve the quality of bending, you need to use a special pattern or a pre-prepared arc template. Before starting to deform a profile pipe with a wall thickness of more than 10 mm, it must be filled with sand so as not to change the cross-sectional size of the workpiece at the bends.

To bend a profile pipe, you must use a bending plate with holes to create a stop. The workpiece is located between two rods installed in the slab at a distance equal to the radius of the planned deformation. Bending is performed from the central part of the pipe to its edges. The method of manually bending a pipe is quite labor-intensive, and the result directly depends on the effort applied.

There are many types of greenhouses. Some are made from wood, others from polycarbonate, and so on. Special attention structures created from metal profiles (pipes) deserve. It is this material that can last a long time, withstanding strong destructive influences.

Features and types

Homemade greenhouses are usually made in one of three options:

attached to houses (the roof can be pitched or oval, without pronounced symmetry);
isolated arched buildings;
“house” greenhouses equipped with a gable roof.

Typical value components determines the most common dimensions of buildings: 3, 4, 6 or 12 m in length, from 2 to 6 m in width. The most convenient dimensions for a pair of parallel beds are 3x6 m, for three beds - 3-12x4-6 m.

Advantages and disadvantages

A greenhouse made from corrugated pipe has five strengths:

the design lasts a long time;
the blocks are secured quite simply;
assembly is easy and convenient;
construction can be done in any configuration you like;
The coatings applied are very diverse.

As for the disadvantages, bending the profile is quite difficult. The solution to the problem is this: bend one of the pipes filled with sand, trying to give it the most accurate shape, and use it as a template.

Selection of profile and design shape

When making a square or rectangular pipe, the following can be used:

hot deformation;
cold deformation;
electric welding;
electric welding combined with cold deformation.

To make arches, you will need a 20x40 profile pipe (10 pieces each), approximately 580 cm in length. There are two options: either immediately request cutting to the desired size, or buy regular models 6 m in size. For arched structures it is worth taking material with a 4x2 section. The jumpers are built from 2x2 metal (67 cm long).

The official requirements for profile pipes are established by GOST 8639-82 and 8645-68. There are options based on various metals, most often builders prefer steel with an outer anti-corrosion layer. Optimal strengthening is achieved through four stiffening ribs, which absorb the maximum part of the load.

A galvanized profile pipe must have a special layer both inside and outside. Distinguish quality material not difficult - it should be quite light. A frame made from it is easy to move to another place or transport by car. Thanks to solid protective coating the risk of corrosion is minimal.

If you need to guarantee increased mechanical stability of the structure, take a galvanized profile pipe with additional reinforcement. This material can easily withstand pressure of up to 90 kg per 1 square meter. m. According to the provisions of GOST, such structures can last up to 20 or even 30 years. Even if the galvanized layer is bent, dents and other defects will appear on it, but the coating will almost certainly remain intact for a long time.

To make a frame from an unprotected pipe, welding is used. Galvanized elements are connected with bolts, special connecting parts or corners. Use metal elements large diameter not very practical because they are overly heavy and uncomfortable.

Project and preparation

In most cases, drawings are drawn up according to standard sizes - from 300 to 1200 cm. It is recommended to find out this indicator from manufacturers or sellers so as not to overpay for excess material and not leave scraps.

The plans should clearly show:

base;
vertically directed racks;
roofing;
top harness;
door;
windows and vents;
spacers

When drawing up a project, you should pay attention to the level of illumination. Any greenhouse should be directed strictly to the south. The permissible surface difference is a maximum of 100 mm. In accordance with the diagram, the marking of the building being created is carried out. For this, stakes and rope are used. If you check the intended lines diagonally, you can do everything quite evenly.

It is not at all necessary to use all profiles with a section of 40 by 20, 20x20 or 40x40 mm. Due to the relatively thick body (from 0.2 cm), such elements are quite strong. Horizontal screeds can be made from a profile with a cross-section from 1 to 1.5 mm, because exceptional performance is not required.

When calculating the height of a building, they are guided primarily by the height of the owner of a dacha or country house. It is usually assumed that the ceiling should be 0.3 - 0.4 m higher than those using the greenhouse, so the values can range from 190 to 250 cm.

Calculating sizes has one more subtlety - adaptation to the finishing material. When the frame is covered with film, this does not have of great importance, but when using polycarbonate, it is important to ensure that the size of the material is sufficient to cover the entire height without cutting or adding. A typical sheet of cellular polycarbonate has a length of 6 m. In the case of an arched greenhouse, you need to use a formula to calculate the circumference. It is worth considering that a height of 2 m is usually excessive, but 190 cm is almost ideal.

When preparing for the construction of a gable prefabricated greenhouse, it is recommended to take into account the properties of the soil. The most top scores are achieved when installing in dry areas, since despite all the protection load-bearing structures It is better not to subject them to severe tests. Sandy soil is superior to clay soil because it does not become as waterlogged.

They try to direct the longest side of the structure to the south, so maximum sunlight will penetrate inside. Placing the door at the end helps retain heat inside the greenhouse and make it easier to move around.

As the practice of thousands of gardeners shows, the door should be made at least 0.7 - 0.8 m wide. As for the height, it is determined by the overall dimensions of the structure. If you plan to build a permanent greenhouse, a kind of vestibule or corridor is beneficial for two reasons: it forms an additional layer of air (thermal barrier) and can be used as a place to store equipment. When opening the doors, this gateway will reduce heat loss.

Foundation construction

Greenhouses made of profile pipes are lightweight, but this advantage often turns into a serious problem, because it is not difficult for intruders or gusts of wind to break such a structure. The solution is to make a strip or pillar type foundation (its choice is determined by the structure of the soil). In any case, before construction begins, the site is thoroughly cleaned of contamination and the top layers of soil are removed. Then markings are made by driving wooden stakes around the perimeter of the structure being created, which serve to hold the rope.

Then you can build the foundation itself. If special anti-vandal characteristics are not important and there is no threat strong wind, you can limit yourself to a columnar structure based on asbestos-cement pipes.

The work process includes several stages.

The ground is drilled with a strictly defined step. The diameter of each hole should allow the pipe to fit freely inside without adjustment.
After placing the supports in the holes, the outer gaps are filled with any suitable soil which should be compacted.
The inside of the pipe is filled with cement, ensuring that there are no cavities.
A metal plate or a pre-cut piece of reinforcement is inserted on top (this will be the connection between the foundation and the frame of a homemade greenhouse).

Frame assembly and cladding

Arcs are best created by a pipe bender. Manual work in this case is not only difficult, it also does not allow obtaining the necessary accuracy. Assembly of the body begins from the ends of the structure. Pipe sections are usually connected by welding using tees and angles if it is necessary to achieve the highest strength. But when the task is to make a collapsible greenhouse with your own hands, you need to use couplings. The final step is to cover the greenhouse body with polycarbonate.

Self-tapping screws with thermal washers are used to secure the sheets., which prevent water from penetrating into the cells of the substance. The cells themselves should be placed at an angle or vertically, since in the horizontal plane moisture will begin to stagnate and spoil the material.

A greenhouse in the form of a “house” with a full-size gable roof should be equipped with both an entrance door and vents. Experts make a miniature greenhouse with an arched configuration with only one door, without ventilation ducts.

The advantage of the arch shape is that such a greenhouse is very stable and practical. The aerodynamic quality of the structure allows it to effectively withstand powerful gusts of wind and avoid the accumulation of snow and ice. The only problem may be to bend the profile pipes correctly. In addition to using a pipe bender and turning to professionals, you can also use more simple tools, including a radius template.

You can bend a profile without heating with the addition of filler, although this is not necessary for elements thinner than 1 cm. If, however, relatively thick components are used, adding sand or rosin significantly facilitates the work, so bending a thick pipe yourself becomes easier and faster. Some home craftsmen use large-diameter springs that can be inserted into the cavity of the professional pipe. The mechanical properties of such an “assistant” ensure bending without changing the cross-section of the profiles along the entire length of the pipe.

Another way to give the workpiece the desired shape is a bending plate with holes made in it. The notches are used to arrange the rods, which will act as a stop. Having placed the pipe between a pair of rods inserted into the slab at the required distance from each other, they begin to bend the profile, gradually moving the force from the middle of the piece of metal to its periphery. It is quite possible to do the work in this way, but it will be very difficult, and the result will depend on the efforts made.

It is better to bend very thick pipes after preheating. Filling the profile with carefully sifted sand helps ensure uniform bending. Since you will be working with heated metal, you must wear protective gloves. It is also important to take care of the safety of the fire source.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

create pyramidal wooden plugs(their length is 10 times the width of the sole; two pipes should fit freely at the widest point);
grooves are made in the plugs to remove hot gases;
burn the desired section of the profile;

the filler is freed from very large particles (imprinted on the surface) and from very small ones (they can melt into the metal);
sand is calcined at a temperature of 150 degrees;
a sealed plug that does not have recesses is placed on one side of the pipe;

from the opposite direction, a funnel must be inserted into the profile pipe, with the help of which calcined sand can be dosed into the cavity;
the walls are tapped (the sound should be muffled);
after filling the pipe with sand, use a second plug;

the bend point is marked with chalk, the segment is thoroughly secured in a vice after applying it to the template;
the welded pipe must be bent with the joints placed on the side (bend in the direction welds do not do it);
heating along the marking line should occur until red hot;
Having given the metal softness, it is bent in one precise movement.

If you are the lucky owner summer cottage plot, then it’s simply a sin to spend money on buying store-bought vegetables and herbs. Accelerate yield times and...

To make a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands you will have to spend a certain amount of time, Money and physical effort, but in the end all efforts will pay off handsomely during the operation of this unique structure.

Why a profile pipe?

When choosing a material for construction, a profile pipe will be the most optimal solution.

Can be naturally used wooden slats, but you will have to use maximum protective measures for it, since this material subject to rotting, shrinkage and deformation.

The latter type does not have any particular advantage, it is simply that it is most often used today out of habit, since previously glass was used to cover the greenhouse, which would have been difficult to cover the arched structure with.

And the innovative and elastic material – polycarbonate – makes it possible to cover greenhouses of any type.

For the main frames of the frame of the future greenhouse, it is recommended to take a pipe measuring 4x2 cm. For horizontal connecting elements, you can use a profile measuring 2x2 cm.

If you want to make a high-quality frame of such a structure as a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands, drawings must be made. This move will allow you to choose the correct sizes and thereby eliminate big losses metal while cutting parts.

Making a metal profile frame with your own hands is not the cheapest pleasure, so it is recommended to carry out the calculation in such a way that no more than one standard pipe size 6.05m.

The optimal size for a gable structure is calculated as follows. If the height is taken to be 1.7 m, then two frames will require 3.4 m of pipe, after which another 2.65 m of profile remains.

When taking into account the roof slope, the width of one frame should be 2.25 m. The main thing is to ensure that after covering the frame, 10 cm of material remains on each side for the side overhangs.

If desired, you can start making a greenhouse using semicircular frames. Here the dimensions of the structure will be larger compared to a gable one, which increases the total usable internal area.

But it’s worth considering that making an arched greenhouse yourself from square pipe involves the use of a device such as a pipe bender. Thanks to it, you will be able to bend the profile efficiently, as you need.

It's worth thinking about, because price policy The cost of such a device is very high, and not everyone can make a pipe bender using improvised means.

There are several ways to bend a profile, without using a special apparatus, but such methods will not give an ideal bend and can lead to deformation of expensive material.

Therefore, in order to avoid such difficulties, it is advisable to opt for a gable type of home greenhouse.

Selecting and laying the foundation

Here you can choose several base options from wooden sleepers to a grillage made of screw piles.

Most best option– choosing a shallow monolithic foundation, which is laid with your own hands not deeply on one “bayonet” of a shovel.

Before making the foundation, anchors are installed on all sides for fastening profile components. When the concrete mixture hardens, 4x2 cm profiles can be welded to the anchors, which will become a reliable basis for installing the future frame of the greenhouse.

A regular strip foundation can also be used for a building; it will increase the reliability of the structure and its durability.

Video - foundation installation

The process of laying a foundation with your own hands involves a large contribution of physical labor, the availability of free time and precision, which must be observed in every action.

Therefore, it is recommended that before starting construction, you start making a drawing of the future structure, indicating all the dimensions from which you should not deviate, in order to avoid unpleasant consequences during subsequent operation.

A greenhouse with a house during the construction process with your own hands does not require the use of a pipe bender. To avoid the formation of possible unevenness, it is advisable to assemble everything on a straight asphalt area.

DIY frame installation

Greenhouses made of polycarbonate and corrugated pipes should only be covered end-to-end, and you should carefully ensure that the front side of the material is looking outside the structure.

The end parts of polycarbonate sheets must be treated with a silicone-based sealant, which protects them. Expect that the length of the covering must be 10 cm longer than the height of the profile in order to form a slope.

At the top joint of the roof of a metal greenhouse made of corrugated pipe, it is covered with a profile that is attached to self-tapping screws along the longitudinal connections.

The installation of polycarbonate on the door and window is carried out according to the same principle; the main thing is to ensure that its size does not interfere with the operation of these elements.

Present on the modern construction market big choice various means that can extend the service life of the metal frame and speed up the process of its construction.

Having delved into the topic and nuances of the process of constructing buildings from profile pipes, it becomes clear that high quality drawing, the manufacture of each element and the technology of covering the frame are of equal importance.

When making a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands, you need to have minimal knowledge of architecture and working with metal elements.

One wrong step or calculation can undo all the work, but the right decision will lead to an excellent final result.

For self-made Drawings are required for a greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe. It is on them that novice greenhouse gardeners build original structures.

The project is attractive because there is an ideal balance between cost and quality.

This is the most optimal option for greenhouses/greenhouses in which vegetables and flowers are grown. These products have standard sizes(multiples of two meters).

A homemade greenhouse is built on the basis of a unique drawing. Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe will cost a summer resident mere pennies. Before you start building the frame, you should carefully level the area and drive in pegs so that the profile for the greenhouse from the pipe does not bend.

To assemble the product you will need the following materials:

profile pipes;
raw materials for hinges;
tees for pipes;
film clips;
wooden or metal pegs;
corner tees-adapters;
adhesive solution and screws;
construction meter.

About square profile greenhouses

Greenhouse gardeners prefer to build structures from profile pipes for greenhouses, since such a universal construction material has many interesting properties and characteristics:

The frame of the greenhouse made of profile pipe is quite durable. It has a thickness of about 1.5 mm and can withstand the load of a large mass of snow.
If all parts of the frame are coated with a special compound, the structure acquires good anti-corrosion properties.
greenhouse arcs can be made more durable by intercepting them with transverse reinforcements.

Modern greenhouses made from profile pipes, built with your own hands, have a variety of shapes. Their construction is very popular when you have drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes.

The greatest demand is for greenhouses with one- and gable roofs, as well as with arched and hipped outlines. Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into:

Non-separable. The products are used year-round and are not removed during the winter months.
Collapsible. With the arrival of cold weather, greenhouses from the pipe are dismantled and stored in utility room(every meter must be taken into account).

A greenhouse made from a profile pipe consists of the following elements:

Foundation. This is a rigid and solid part of the structure. Takes on the entire volume of loads, distributing them over the base. Temporary structures do not need strong foundations, but permanent greenhouses cannot do without them. Foundations can be brick, wood, concrete or stone. Structures made from profile pipes will feel great on a monolithic strip foundation. The base of the latter is sealed at a depth of approximately a meter (80 cm below the local freezing point), and then covered with crushed stone.
Frame. We are talking about load-bearing parts of the structure (beams, arches). They can be made from wood, steel, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). How stronger frame, the more stable the greenhouse, made with your own hands. Each of the varieties has advantages and disadvantages. So, wooden frame easy to install. However, even if the parts were pre-treated with special water-repellent compounds, the frame assembled from them is still inferior in strength steel frames. Steel can withstand heavy loads, but requires anti-corrosion coatings.
PVC structures. They attract with their safety, strength, flexibility and tightness. However, PVC segments are more expensive than other materials. On one's own assembled frame made from profile pipes, the house delights with its reliability. It is supplemented with stiffening ribs (arches). They are located with a two-meter step between adjacent segments. Thanks to the outlines, precipitation, which creates loads on the structure, does not linger on the surface of the pipe greenhouse. The square steel profile does not bend. A frame made of such pipes is quite easy to install. No special equipment is needed here. Suitable for building such structures simple circuit greenhouses from a profile pipe.
Coatings.They are a layer of protective material that is attached to the greenhouse frame. As a result, harmful effects the environment cannot affect the plants in the greenhouse. More often homemade greenhouses from a profile pipe are covered with film sheets, glass or cellular polycarbonate. They differ in durability, strength or cost. Polycarbonate coating helps create the most effective conditions for the development of vegetables: impervious to cold air and permeable Sun rays. Polycarbonate coating attracts with its creative aesthetic appearance.
Accessories.When selecting segments, it is advisable to make a preliminary calculation. Special meaning has material used for coating. So as to securely attach cellular polycarbonate, you will need sets of connecting profiles and thermal washers. The polycarbonate is fixed to a metal base with self-tapping screws. Using a connecting profile, adjacent polycarbonate sections are combined. The aluminum profiles are supplemented with rubber seals.

Instead of a conclusion

The greenhouse frame made of profile pipe allows you to fix various nodes buildings on the internal plane. We are talking about complexes automatic watering, heating or lighting. The galvanized profile is durable because it is not afraid of rust. Among summer residents, greenhouses made of profile pipes made under film or cellular polycarbonate are very popular. Such structures retain heat perfectly, creating the effect of a thermos inside.