Encyclopedia of Fire Safety

How to sheathe a metal frame with wooden clapboard. Lathing for lining - how to make a strong and reliable foundation for the structure. Creation of sheathing for lining

Do-it-yourself lining is done quite simply and does not require special qualifications, so if you delve into this process, you can install the lining yourself, while saving a considerable amount on the work of a craftsman.

It is also worth noting that modern additional elements for lining, called moldings (they are shown in the figure), make the installation process easier.

Work begins with the installation of guides, which should be mounted across the direction of the future lining. Together, ready for cladding, these guides form a frame for the lining (frame for lining).

Used for wooden lining wooden slats as guides, for plastic ones - metal ones using “U”-shaped holders.

U-shaped holders are used in the construction of all types of frames for plasterboard structures.

Wooden guides are pre-primed with an alkyd primer or special impregnation to protect the wood from moisture. In addition, they must be free of cracks and knots over the entire width and thickness of the guide (beam).

The installation of vertical guides begins with fixing the corner rails level on dowels in increments of 40 cm, then pulling the cords - on top of the rail, in the middle, below. Intermediate guides are installed along the cords.

If, during the installation of the guides, it is necessary to create a gap between the wall and the guide (for example, if there is a hole on the wall and the guide is drowned in it and does not reach the cord, or the surface is deviated from the level), then it can be placed on a gypsum mortar and, after it has set, secured with dowels, but it is better to place wooden wedges under the guide.

Horizontal guides are installed in a similar way. The first guide is installed on top, the bottom one is installed along plumb lines that are applied to the edges of the installed upper guide.

Thermal insulation of polystyrene foam or glass wool can be laid between the guides at their thickness.

On wooden frame the lining is secured using self-tapping screws, nails, clamps or staples; when working on a metal frame, nails and staples are not used.

There are two ways of facing with clapboard: with hidden fastenings and with open fastenings. IN utility rooms you can use cladding with open fastenings, but in residential premises it makes sense to use closed method fastenings

The figure shows examples of closed fastenings on a wooden frame, as well as brackets for fastening lining on a metal frame. In addition, the bracket can also be attached to a wooden frame, but using nails to fix the bracket to a wooden beam (guide). They are attached to the metal profile using frame screws with flattened tips, called “fleas”.

Frame construction is becoming more and more popular in our country. Today it is no longer a secret that, in terms of their basic properties, buildings are in no way inferior to their log counterparts and meet all the requirements for a modern home:

  • they are warm enough
  • durable,
  • can be used for quite a long time,
  • have good sound insulation,
  • not subject to shrinkage.

Sheathing frame house can be made of various materials.

When deciding how to sheathe a frame house, you should take into account that the main functions of the sheathing are:

  • protection of the house frame,
  • additional strengthening of the walls of the house,
  • creating an attractive appearance of the facade,
  • design of the exterior of the building in the intended style.

Properly selected and correctly installed cladding will give the house a finished look, hide cosmetic defects in the walls (if any), and protect against aggressive environmental influences.

There are a lot of cladding options; the construction market offers a variety of shapes and materials. The choice, as a rule, is limited only by the preferences of the developer and his financial capabilities. In this article we will look at all the main types of cladding used in the design of the facades of a frame house.

Wood paneling

Despite the fact that wooden lining is a little outdated, many people prefer it, since in comparison with others, external wooden lining is the most environmentally friendly and vapor permeable material. In addition, the installation of wooden lining itself does not cause any particular difficulties.

One of the disadvantages of wooden cladding is its fragility. In order for the lining to retain its aesthetically attractive appearance and to protect it from destruction, it is necessary to coat the wood with impregnation or paint it. Wood paneling needs to regular care.


The house is lined with wood-polymer clapboard

Also, the modern construction industry offers for finishing materials such as moisture-resistant exterior wood-polymer lining. It is more practical, as it is not subject to rotting and does not require as much care as wood.

Finishing with imitation timber


Sheathing a frame house with imitation timber

The outer cladding of the house can be made from other wooden material– imitation timber. This is a good alternative to lining if you consider the latter to be a somewhat primitive and outdated finishing material.

Block house with cladding on frame house

A specially treated (hardened) block house is quite durable, as it is not afraid of even sudden temperature changes.

Siding for a frame house


- one of modern materials For outer skin frame house, which is now becoming more and more popular. It consists of separate panels that are attached to each other using latches. Siding is used in the design of facades not only of private houses, but also of office buildings, and entertainment centers and so on.

Although the main function is to decorate and protect the facade of the house, it also serves additional element strengthening the frame structure.

The siding fastening is built on the principle of the same sheathing board. Each panel has a snap lock and perforated nail edge.

Siding varies in size: length 2-6 m, width 10-30 cm, thickness up to 1 cm.

The profile of the panels can be made with a single (herringbone) and double fracture (ship plank). This characteristic is purely aesthetic; it does not affect the main functions of the material.

For the manufacture of siding are used various materials: ceramics, steel, wood, aluminum, etc. The appearance of the siding is quite neat. If we add to this indicators such as strength and durability (the coating does not change its original appearance for up to 10 years), then the popularity that this material enjoys in modern construction becomes clear.

Regardless of what material was used in manufacturing, on the outside of the panel


Attaching siding to sheathing

applied polymer coating or paint that protect them from corrosion.

Siding is extremely simple to maintain: it is easy to clean and does not require any application. protective compounds(paints, impregnations, etc.). It is also absolutely safe and environmentally friendly.

The siding is attached to (wood or metal); during the facing work, the building can also be insulated.

Other materials for house exterior cladding

Also in building cladding, frame houses, materials such as:




Each of the above methods is used quite actively in construction today. Exterior cladding of a house is an issue that is decided individually. It all depends on your goals and objectives that you set for yourself, and it’s also a matter of taste.

Lining is a high-quality, aesthetic, and most importantly, environmentally friendly material, which is often used to decorate the walls of residential buildings. In modern conditions, when there are so many synthetic materials on the market, it is the lining that makes it possible to create a very pleasant, warm atmosphere and a good microclimate in the house. In this article we will look in detail at how the interior decoration of a house with clapboard is carried out in accordance with all the rules, reliably and competently.

Basics of installation technology

It’s not difficult to install lining in a wooden, timber, frame house with my own hands, you can perform such finishing in a cottage built of brick, in frame buildings and other residential structures. In order for surface cladding made of wood to be of high quality, it is important to follow the installation technology and carefully select the material. You also need to decide in advance how exactly the lining will be installed: horizontally or vertically.

Typically for interior wall cladding wooden building or in other types of residential buildings, material made from the following types of wood is used:

  • birch;
  • larch;
  • Linden;
  • aspen;
  • pine.

There is also a modern synthetic material - plastic lining. It is easy to install, weighs little, is quite cheap, but creates the same favorable atmosphere as natural wood she certainly won't. The only condition under which a plastic analogue will be the preferred material is high level humidity in rooms. For example, in the kitchen, toilet or bathroom, it is plastic that imitates natural wood that will become the best option. And in living areas and the hallway of your home, you should use exclusively natural wood. The undoubted advantages of wooden lining are excellent sound insulation, long-term operation, heat retention and, of course, a beneficial effect on human health.

Lining made of wood is divided into several types:

  • variety "Extra"– the most expensive and high quality;
  • variety "A";
  • variety "B";
  • variety "WITH".

If you want the decoration in your home to be durable, beautiful and of high quality, give preference to more expensive materials.

Interior decoration of a residential building

Step 1. Preparing material for interior wall cladding. Before proceeding with installation in a wooden or any other structure, you should prepare not only the walls, but also, first of all, the lining itself. It definitely needs to be covered by special means for bioprotection, which will prevent rotting, mold and other factors unfavorable for wood.

Step 2. If you want to get lining in an unusual shade that perfectly matches your interiors, treat the material with stain or special compounds that will give the desired tone.

Step 3. Dry the lining well and keep it in the room where the repairs will be done for 24 hours. This is necessary so that the panels “get used” to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room and do not shrink after installation. In addition, such “adaptation” also protects the material from drying out in the future.

Step 4. We are preparing the sheathing for installing the boards. The panels will be installed at wooden sheathing. In order to do this load-bearing structure, you can purchase ready-made slats for the frame, but to save money you can make them yourself. This is not difficult to do: using an electric saw, slats are cut from boards with a small cross-section. Next, using self-tapping screws, the sheathing is attached to the wall in increments of 50-70 cm.

In order for the frame to be strong and its service life to be as long as possible, a slight gap should be left between the cladding and the surface of the walls: this is necessary for good ventilation. If necessary, insulation material and a vapor barrier are installed in the frame. It is also important to treat the sheathing with a primer to protect it from mold or mildew, which could damage appearance lining, and most importantly, reduce the service life of the material.

Step 5. Fastening the lining. Before you start covering, you should choose the best way fastening the material. Can be secured with nails, clamps or staples. You can make the fasteners hidden or external, use ordinary nails or special decorative screws, staplers, etc. for fastening. The main thing is to try not to cause any damage to the material during the installation process (if handled carelessly, the wooden surface may well crack).

In case you prefer in a hidden way fastenings, the lining is fixed to the frame from the side of the groove, where it meets the tenon. The method most often used is the most accurate, but also the most complex: nails are carefully nailed into the grooves of the lining. At the same time, the fixation points become almost invisible.

Special devices for such material – metal clamps – will also help ensure high-quality installation of the lining. The clamp is cut into the groove of the lining with its teeth; on the other hand, it is nailed or screwed to the sheathing. Mount wooden finishing material using clamps is very convenient.

Important rules for covering the surfaces of house walls with clapboard

  1. You need to decide in advance on the direction in which the trim will be installed: this primarily determines how the frame will be arranged - horizontally or vertically. The material is attached perpendicular to the sheathing. Horizontal clapboard cladding will help you significantly expand the room visually, while vertical cladding will help make the ceilings appear visually higher.
  2. For horizontal cladding, start fastening the material from the ceilings to the floor; it is advisable to direct the grooves of the boards downwards. In this case, debris, bullets and dirt cannot get into the grooves, and the absence of such negative factors will significantly extend the service life of the casing.
  3. At vertical cladding interior walls start installation from the corner. Clamps are installed in the grooves on the back walls of the boards, which must be nailed to the frame rail. The first board is fixed in the corner with nails, and the fastening points will subsequently be covered with decorative slats. Further, all work is carried out in the same way as with horizontal fastening: the boards are fixed on top of each other, lining up into a single, even sheet.
  4. The installation is completed in the same way as it began: the last board must be nailed down, and the fastening points must be covered with decorative strips. With the help of such strips, as well as decorative corners and baseboards, be sure to cover all joints and corners - internal and external. This will make the wall paneling complete.

The video clearly shows the entire installation technology:

Decorating a wooden or any other house with clapboard is a wonderful way to make interiors spectacular and fill them with an extraordinary feeling of natural warmth and comfort. A house built of stone or brick has a “cold” beauty - and such decoration can completely change the atmosphere. Give preference to quality natural materials to decorate the walls inside the house - and enjoy the comfort and beauty of your country home!

Today it is fashionable to replace plastic trim elements wooden options, which gives the home comfort and warmth. The technology of wall cladding with wood has been known for a long time, but remains relevant to this day. Today we’ll figure out whether covering walls with clapboard with your own hands is so difficult, and whether it can be done without outside help.

What nuances should be taken into account when working with lining

Lining is a board different thicknesses, which is made from different types of wood. Your name this material received because of the place where it was first applied. These are carriages on trains, the inner walls of which were lined with small slats of wood. Today it is fashionable to cover the walls in a bathhouse with clapboard, as well as in a sauna or gazebo.

It is necessary to take into account that decorating walls with clapboard yourself requires a thorough, balanced approach. Please pay attention to the following details:

  • Packed boards should be stored horizontally on a backing.
  • The humidity of the storage room should be within normal limits.
  • Storage should not be allowed when the packaging is exposed to direct sunlight.
  • It is important to pay attention to the expiration dates indicated on the packaging.

  • The cost of 1 m2 of forced linden wood, which perfectly tolerates temperature changes and high humidity, costs 500 rubles, and to cover the walls in the main rooms at the dacha, on average, you can spend a smaller amount - 300 rubles per m2. Important! The price of the material directly depends on the quality of the wood.

On a note! Wall lining is purchased with a reserve equal to ten percent of total area. It must be remembered that the width of each element is measured by the internal depth, so you need to subtract 10-12 mm from the groove depth.

Processing of lining material

After the purchase, the question becomes, how to cover the walls with clapboard yourself so that the coating is wear-resistant and beautiful? The primary task is proper pre-treatment, because the manufacturer does not carry out any manipulations with the wood. The following actions must be taken:

  • Products made from pine needles need to be degreased. To do this, it is better to wash the board with a 25% acetone solution. After this, wipe with a cloth soaked in water and dry.

  • All damage, even the most minor, should be repaired. putty mixture for wood. It can be bought at any hardware store.

  • If you need to change the shade, you can use stain or other professional impregnations that will preserve the beautiful texture of the wood.

What is needed to prepare walls for lining

There are two main options for making a wall with clapboard: glue and frame. Note that the first one will require you to have an ideal flat surface. That is why the second method, which involves erecting a sheathing, is preferable. Among the advantages of this method - creation additional space for insulating the room.

In order to fix the lining on the wall, you need:

  • Tools. In this particular case, you should prepare a drill with different attachments, a plumb line (level), pliers, a hammer, hand saw or jigsaw.
  • Slats for constructing the frame. For these purposes, solid wooden beams with a section of 30*60 mm. At the same stage, the substrates used to level the surfaces are prepared.
  • Fastening materials: dowels, screws, nails, clamps, and, if necessary, hangers for the frame.

Important! Even if applied frame method fastenings required preliminary preparation working surfaces. The procedure is simple, it consists in the fact that everything decorative elements are removed from the wall and defects are erased. After this, additional priming is carried out.

How to create a sheathing for fastening lining

Preparing walls for lining is the most scrupulous process. You will have to tinker with creating a special design. General recommendations:

  • Treat the timber with fireproof impregnation and antifungal agents.
  • Make sure that the slats are positioned strictly perpendicular to the decorative boards.

  • It is necessary to maintain a uniform distance between the slats, the step of which is 40-50 cm.

  • It is necessary to leave a distance between the floor and ceiling. This recommendation is especially relevant for wooden houses, which are constantly subject to the shrinkage process.
  • The evenness of the installation of the frame must be carefully checked; plumb lines and a level are used for this.

  • If a space forms between the lath and the wall, it must be filled with prepared dies.

Important! The construction of sheathing makes it possible to equip the walls with an additional insulating layer. The insulation is fixed between the resulting racks.

Which fixation option should I choose?

It is important to decide on the method of fixing the board materials. You can sheathe a wall using several methods:

  • Through view of fasteners. This is the simplest solution that does not require special effort. The idea is that the screws are screwed directly through the front side. This method involves applying markings so that the fastening points are located on the same line. In addition, holes are drilled on the carriage board in advance, which will prevent the wood from deteriorating and cracking. When screwing in the screws, make sure that their heads are completely recessed into the wood. This can be easily achieved if you pre-drill out a place for the head with a large-caliber drill. The resulting holes are masked with special eraser plugs or filled with putty. Among the disadvantages, this method significantly disrupts the external aesthetic appeal of the coating.

  • The lining can be attached to the wall using decorative nails. Their hats were initially decorated to match the color of the material.

  • Hidden nails without heads would be an excellent option. The peculiarity is that such nails can only be driven at an angle of 80 degrees. This will make it possible to hide those areas that have been violated.
  • If you have a professional stapler on your farm, you can use staples for fastening.

Important! Not worth buying hand tool for driving staples, which is sold at every corner, since its use does not provide reliable fixation.

  • For the smallest thickness of the carriage board, clamps are used. The main advantage is that the fastenings are invisible.

The method of attaching the lining to the wall is selected individually, based on specific situation. But we note that recently it is the clamps that have become the most popular.

The process of fastening the lining

Before sheathing the walls, the material is brought into the room and left for two days. This manipulation is essential for the tree to fully acclimatize.

Important! If you rush and skip this stage, there is a high probability that the structure will warp.

All work must be carried out at positive air temperatures, and optimal humidity at least 60%.

The essence of the technique:

  • Most often, installation is carried out in a horizontal position, so install the first plank at the bottom so that its tongue (groove) faces upward.
  • As in wallpapering, fixing should begin from a corner that is located away from the entrance to the room.

  • Check the board thoroughly with a level, taking into account the horizontal and vertical surface.
  • The first board is fastened, and the rest are then grooved and then fixed with clamps. be careful with the first and last elements, it is better to secure them with screws.

  • After finishing, you need to decorate the walls with baseboards and corners, or you can paint the lining walls with stain or varnish the surface.

Experience guarantees completion finishing works within a day, even including the installation of the frame. Natural materials They will give the room comfort and warmth, will last a long time, and will preserve its beauty.

Video: Do-it-yourself lining installation

The lining gives the room coziness and introduces country motifs into the interior.

Walls and ceilings of auxiliary rooms and even living rooms V country house. Its main advantage is its easy installation.

Equipment and materials

Tools needed for work: hammer drill, jigsaw, tape measure, level, pencil, screwdriver, hammer, sponge.

You need to start sheathing with clapboard by preparing everything necessary for this work. You will need:

  • perforator;
  • jigsaw or circular saw;
  • chisel;
  • roulette;
  • plumb line;
  • level;
  • cord;
  • square;
  • pencil;
  • screwdriver;
  • hammer;
  • glue gun;
  • wooden or metal slats;
  • straight hangers;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • nails;
  • lining in panels;
  • additional elements;
  • assembly adhesive;
  • clamps;
  • base primer for wood;
  • varnish or oil on wood;
  • roller;
  • brush;
  • sponge.

Preparing panels

The lining should not go into production directly from the store warehouse. She needs to rest for several days at the humidity and temperature that will be in the room in the near future. This will help avoid warping.

Processing walls already covered with clapboard is not entirely correct. When drying, the lining will narrow, and the unpainted strips along its edges will protrude. Therefore, for durability and protection from pests, the wood must be treated in advance.

It is also better to cut the panels to size before starting work. This will allow the ends to be saturated with soil. It is best to cut lining circular saw, but a jigsaw will do just fine. In extreme cases, you can use a hacksaw for wood, but it is not very suitable for effectively mastering large volumes of work.

In the first pass, the panels on both sides are treated with wood primer. Use a roller on flat surfaces and a brush on the ends. After drying, you can proceed to the finishing coat. Painting is done in a horizontal position to avoid drips.

Most beautiful effect Gives rubbing the color with a semi-dry sponge. But such processing takes a lot of time and effort. If you are not ready for increased difficulties, then you can limit yourself to applying finishing coating roller and sponge. Don't forget to paint the ends of the front surface of the grooves. They don't overlap.

Frame structure

The lining is attached to a frame made of slats. Can be used even wooden blocks 60*30 mm or lightweight galvanized profiles CD 60*27 mm, which are also called ceiling profiles.

The first thing you need to decide on is whether the frame will be with or without a stem. The option with removal provides extra space for placing insulation, and the second one saves space in the room. The extension can be used on external walls, and the rest can be sheathed without unnecessary gaps.

The lining on the wall can be positioned both vertically and horizontally. Accordingly, the frame, the slats of which are mounted perpendicular to the panels, can be horizontal or vertical. Please note that against the background of horizontal cladding, all the flaws that were present during the installation of the floors clearly appear. Therefore, in general, it is better to prefer vertical placement of the sheathing.

The distance between the slats for the lining on the wall should be about 50-60 cm.

Removal is carried out using direct hangers. Depending on the material of the walls, they are secured with dowels or self-tapping screws. The bent legs of the suspensions make it possible to fix the rail with self-tapping screws through the perforations in the legs.

You need to align the slats in one plane using a plumb line, level and stretched cords along each line of suspensions. First, set and fix the outer slats in level and plumb. Pull the cords between them and place the intermediate elements of the frame. Requires special care when using wooden elements. Their geometry is often far from the reference one. They can be not only curved, but also twisted. All this requires careful correction.

For a frame without a stem, it is easier to use wooden slats. They are attached directly to the wall. Sometimes you have to knock down protruding plaster or put wedges in the depressions. When the wall is filled up or goes away, it is necessary to use combined structures. That is, wall fastening is performed on the protruding and remote sides on the outgoing edge.

The ceiling frame has its own characteristics. It is convenient to cover the ceiling when the walls are already leveled with clapboard or other finishing cladding. By waterway or laser level a horizontal line is drawn at the required height. A starting galvanized profile 28*27 mm is screwed along the line. It starts up ceiling profile 60*27 mm. It is kept from sagging by straight hangers screwed to the ceiling every 40 cm. The pitch of the slats on the ceiling is 30 cm.

Panel installation

The lining is fastened using special fasteners called clamps. The tenon of the panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one, and its groove is attracted to the frame with a clamp.

The kleimer is a small part stamped from a thin galvanized sheet. It has a support platform with holes and a bracket that secures the trim. The bracket fits into the groove of the panel, and the clamp itself is nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws. The hole for the nail on the support platform is one and small in size. There are two larger holes for self-tapping screws.

With this method of fixation, the lining remains able to change its dimensions with fluctuations in humidity and temperature in the room. To maintain the possibility of expansion, the panel is not inserted into the groove until it stops. You need to leave a small gap of 2-3 mm.

Sheathing begins from the corner or from bottom to top with a tenon towards the corner. The sides of the outer panels facing the corner have to be secured by hammering or screwing hardware directly through the panel. The caps of the fastening elements are hidden behind overhead universal corners made of MDF or other similar materials. Facing fittings are installed using mounting adhesive. The joint with the ceiling or floor is covered with plinth and baguette. Ceiling cladding is carried out using the same method as walls.

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