Making a house roof by hand. Gable roof of a house: step-by-step construction with your own hands. Fastening and strengthening the frame

The roof is one of the most complex and important architectural elements of a house. Its construction must be approached very responsibly - mistakes are too expensive. It is not for nothing that roofers are considered the most paid builders; the durability and comfort of a building largely depends on their skill. The construction process itself consists of several steps.

Step 1. Select a project

The main differences between roof projects are not design, although they are primarily striking, but structural. When choosing a specific project, you should take into account the maximum number of technical characteristics of the building and the climatic zone of its location.

What roofing options are offered to developers today?

Step 2. Selecting materials

Once a specific roof option has been selected, you need to decide on the materials for the construction of the rafter system and the type of roofing coverings.

Important. At the same stage, you need to decide whether the roof will be warm for living quarters or cold.

Rafter system

The rafter system requires only high-quality materials of at least second grade.

Practical advice. To save money for the rafter system, you can buy wet boards rather than dry ones; they are much cheaper. But it should be remembered that raw lumber must be used no later than 7–10 days, during which time the rafter system must be installed and the roof covered. The boards will dry optimally under load, and strong mechanical connections will prevent them from warping.

Prices for various types of construction boards

Construction boards

The Mauerlat is made from 100×100 mm timber or 50×200 mm boards. Rafter legs are made from boards 50×150 mm or 50×100 mm. The linear dimensions of the rafter legs must take into account the maximum possible static and dynamic forces. The width of the boards can be changed by using various vertical and angular stops. Each rafter system has its own characteristics; the master must have extensive practical experience in order to correctly solve problems that arise during construction. And, of course, a project must be ordered for a residential building; a self-built building is considered illegal and will not be accepted for use. This means that light and heating cannot be connected to it, such a room is not registered, it cannot be given or bequeathed. The project, among others, has working drawings of the rafter system; it is necessary to strictly follow the engineers’ recommendations.

The type of lathing depends on the type roofing, for soft roofing materials it is necessary to make a continuous one, for hard ones any one is suitable. For a solid one, you need to prepare sheets of plywood or OSB, the thickness is at least one centimeter, but it can be changed depending on the pitch of the rafter legs.

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

You can make a continuous sheathing from edged slats, although this option is difficult to consider optimal - it is very expensive and time-consuming. For solid roofing materials, the sheathing is made of slats or unedged boards. Unedged lumber definitely needs to be sanded.

Roofing materials

For residential buildings, the most budget-friendly options are bitumen or metal shingles.

Less commonly used are profiled sheets or roll coverings.

Very rarely natural or artificial piece tiles.

The rafter system largely depends on the type of materials. At the design stage, it is necessary to take into account the weight and fastening features of roofing coverings.

Prices for various types of roofing materials

Roofing materials

Insulation materials

Warm roofs are installed only in cases where attic spaces are planned to be converted into residential attics. Currently, two types of insulation are used: mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

The distance between the rafter legs should take into account the factory width of the insulation, thereby reducing the amount of unproductive waste and speeding up work.

The weight of insulation is minimal and can be neglected during the design of the rafter system. But you should keep in mind the climatic zone where the house is located; the thickness of the insulation and, accordingly, the width of the rafter boards depend on this.

Practical advice. For all climatic regions, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 10 cm; for the middle zone, this parameter increases to 15 cm. If the insulation layer is less than the recommended values, then the efficiency of heat saving sharply decreases.

Additional roof materials

If the roof is warm, then it is necessary to provide for the installation of steam and water protection, and the installation of counter-lattice to ensure natural ventilation of the under-roof space. The range of materials is huge, but by and large they are not much different from each other. On performance characteristics compliance with installation technology is more influential than physical indicators roofing membranes. Even more cheap material can be used in such a way that it satisfies all building codes and requirements. Conversely, the most modern innovative material can be mounted in such a way that, apart from harm, there will be no positive effect.

And the last thing you should think about when planning the construction of the roof is the drainage system and special elements for bypassing chimney and ventilation pipes. For some linings and snow retainers it is necessary to provide extra seats fixation on the rafter system. It is much more expedient to do this at the stage of its construction than after fixing the roofing materials. Although modern technologies allow the use of both options for installing additional and special roof elements.

On this preparatory stage finished. If all building materials are prepared, the type of roof and roofing coverings are selected, and the rafter system is designed, then you can begin the actual construction of the roof.

Construction of the rafter system

Important. Mistakes made during the construction of the rafter system are very difficult to correct. Most of them will become noticeable already during the operation of the building, this is extremely unpleasant. There are situations when it will take more money to correct the shortcomings of the rafter system than for construction new roof. And this is also the case when, due to leaks, there is no need to repair the interior.

As an example, we will look at step-by-step instructions for one of the most complex roofs - a hipped roof. Understanding the construction technology of this rafter system, it will not be difficult to understand the technology and assemble simpler single-pitch or gable roofs yourself.

Step 1. Take two long boards, with their help it is easier to determine the length of the rafter legs, the angle of the slopes and the height of the roof. Temporarily fix the boards to vertical support on the wall of the house. Raise or lower them until you find an acceptable position. If the size of the house allows, then it is better to design the rafter system so that the length of the legs does not exceed 6 m. Such lumber can be purchased, there will be no need to increase it. Building up not only takes a lot of time, but also weakens the structure and requires the installation of additional supports.

Step 2. Fill the reinforcing belt. It not only increases the height of the attic space, but also makes it possible to extend the overhang of the rafter legs and further protect façade walls from precipitation. The width of the belt should be at least 30 cm, the height depending on the size of the house.

How to fill a reinforcing belt?

Important. The difference in height at the corners of the reinforcing belt should not exceed ± 2 cm. To check, you need to pull the rope, with its help it is much easier to level the concrete surface.

Allow at least three days for the concrete to harden. Remember that it will gain 50% strength only after two weeks, only then can the structure be fully loaded. If the weather is very warm and windy, then the concrete belt should be watered generously with water at least twice a day. Concrete gains strength not during drying, but during favorable development chemical reactions, this requires constant moisture.

The construction of a rafter system conventionally consists of four stages: installation of the mauerlat, installation of the ridge beam, installation of rafters (hip and diagonal) and arrangement of the sheathing.

Mauerlat installation

Work begins after the concrete of the reinforcing belt has gained sufficient strength and the formwork has been dismantled. For the Mauerlat, 200×100 mm timber is used. This is very important element rafter system, serves to support the rafter legs and uniform distribution point loads over the entire area of ​​the façade walls.

Step 1. Place the timber next to the reinforcing belt, accurately mark the exit points of the anchors. It's easier to do this without a tape measure. Turn it over with the narrow side down and place it on your belt, using a pencil to mark the position of the anchors. Then transfer the marks to the wide side of the beam; holes must be drilled in these places.

Practical advice. If there are doubts about the accuracy of taking measurements, then drill holes for anchors with a diameter of 2–3 mm larger diameter hairpins It won't have any effect negative impact on the strength of the Mauerlat fastening, but will make it much easier to install it in place.

Step 2. Drill holes, hold the drill as vertically as possible, do not allow distortions. The work must be carried out by an experienced carpenter. A beginner can ruin the beam; all the holes will have to be shifted by reducing its length.

Practical advice. If there are doubts about the strength of the concrete of the reinforcing belt, then do not tighten the nuts with great force. They can be tightened later during the construction of the rafter system.

Step 3. Prepare strips of waterproofing under the Mauerlat; it is better to buy ordinary cheap roofing felt. The strip is cut from the roll; there is no need to roll it out. The material is perfectly cut with a grinder and a metal disc.

Step 4. Spread strips of waterproofing on the reinforcing belt. Making holes is much easier with a hammer. Place the roofing felt on the anchors and use a hammer to carefully punch holes in the waterproofing for the studs. You just need to do this carefully, you can’t hit it too hard. Otherwise, there is a risk of damaging the upper threads and problems will arise when tightening the nuts. If you are afraid, then before laying the roofing material on all the studs, screw the nuts; after unscrewing, they will automatically align the damaged turns.

Step 5. Install the beam onto the anchors and tighten with nuts. Be sure to place washers under them large diameter. If the Mauerlat fits tightly onto the studs, you will have to hammer it in with a sledgehammer. This situation indicates insufficient qualifications of roofers.

It is better to make Mauerlat from pine rather than spruce; it contains much more resin, and accordingly, it is not damaged by putrefactive diseases longer. How to distinguish pine from others coniferous species wood? For several reasons. First, the wood smells of resin and turpentine. Second - the pine has a bright yellow tint, large and lively knots. Third, the presence of black spots on pine lumber indicates a high resin content; it acquires this color after oxidation in air. Spruce is whiter, lighter in weight, has few knots and has bad smell cat feces.

At the corners and along the length, the beams are connected into half a tree; it is advisable to fix these places with long nails or self-tapping screws made of stainless alloys.

Installation of a ridge beam

For horizontal support, vertical posts and the upper ridge girder, you can use 50x150 mm timber. The lower element must be secured with anchors, and waterproofing must be placed between the concrete floor slab and the wood. All fastenings are made with nails; they should be driven in obliquely. If you wish, you can use it metal corners. To calculate the size of the ridge beam, you need to subtract its width from the length of the house, the resulting value is the length of the element. Calculation is needed to ensure that all four overhangs are the same.

Installation of rafters

This is the most difficult stage of building a rafter system. The system will be without thrust; special cuts are made on the rafter legs to rest against the mauerlat. In this position, they do not push the walls apart, but press them together; this rafter system is more stable than a layered one.

Step 1. Install diagonal rafters. For their manufacture, a 50×150 mm board is used; if the length is not enough, then the materials should be spliced. During splicing, it is necessary to strictly follow the existing recommendations, while at the joints it is necessary to install a support in the future; this should be kept in mind when choosing the location for the extension. Make sure that all four elements are located at the same angle. If the overhang size is slightly different, this is not a problem; the parameter can be easily adjusted to the required value using fillets.

Practical advice. To increase strength diagonal rafters It is recommended to knock down two beams, as a result the thickness will increase to 100 mm. It is necessary to knock down with a shift, due to this the length of the element simultaneously increases.

Step 2. Proceed with the installation of ordinary rafters. In the places where the mauerlat stops, you need to saw down the platform, the upper end is fixed to the ridge girder.

Drive all connections onto three nails at an angle. Two nails are driven into the sides and one into the edge of the beam.

Important. If the roof is insulated, then the rafter spacing is 60 cm, which is exactly the width of most insulation materials. But dimensions should be taken not along the lateral planes of the lumber, but along the axis of symmetry.

To increase stability, additionally secure the rafters with metal corners. It is not necessary to screw in self-tapping screws; it is much more convenient to use nails; this does not reduce the stability of the structure. The fact is that they work for cutting, and not for pulling out.

The rafters must be positioned under the rope. First, the two outer legs are mounted and their position is carefully checked. Everything is within normal limits - stretch a rope between them and install all the remaining elements under it.

Step 3. Align the overhang of the rafters under the cornice. It should be marked with a construction rope; it is easier to cut with a gasoline saw.

Practical advice. If piece tiles are used to cover the roof, you will have to strengthen truss structure. This is not difficult to do; you just need to install additional purlins and rest your feet on them.

Installation of sheathing

As we mentioned above, the type of lathing depends on the type of roofing. But in all cases, it is recommended to treat the lathing materials with antiseptics. The fact is that they work in conditions difficult for natural ventilation; additional protection against rotting is very important. Building codes require that everyone wooden elements impregnated with fire protection, now there are dual-action preparations that protect both from fire and from rotting. The requirements must be fulfilled. But in practice, both protected and unprotected houses burn with equal success.

Video - Installation of lathing under metal tiles

Roof installation

The technology depends on the selected materials. For all cases, there is universal advice - you need to cover the house as quickly as possible. If insulation is installed, it must be done from inside the building, thus eliminating the risk of the mineral wool getting wet. Wet wool is a problem for roofers. It will have to be removed to dry during dismantling a large number of becomes unusable, the total time for constructing the roof of the house increases significantly.

Prices for mineral wool

Video - DIY metal roofing installation

Video - Errors in installing metal tiles

Installation of a drainage system

Video - Installation of gutters

We will send the material to you by e-mail

When choosing a simple structure for the roof of a residential, utility or any other building, as well as an extension to the main building, the most advantageous is a lean-to roof. It is built quite simply, is undemanding in terms of the type of foundation due to its low load, and can easily fit into the budget of any budget project. A do-it-yourself pitched roof is being built step by step in as soon as possible even by one person without involvement additional equipment or people. The design has increased functionality and reliability.

The most common areas of application for pitched roofs are bathhouses and outbuildings.

In order to understand whether it is worth making a choice in favor of pitched roof, it is worth assessing what advantages will be obtained and minimizing the impact of disadvantages. The advantages include the following criteria:

• Economical in terms of financial costs not only for building materials, but also for strengthening walls to increase their resistance to compressive and tensile stresses.
• The simplicity of design will allow even non-specialists to build roofs of this type and at the same time receive optimal timing their operation, as well as the absence of any maintenance requirements.
• Possibility with panoramic views.
• Reduced roof windage in the presence of predominantly directional winds and choice correct location slope slope.
• High maintainability due to the simplicity of the design of the rafter system and sheathing.
• It is permissible to use any roofing materials if the correct angles of inclination are selected.

A do-it-yourself pitched roof, built step by step, also has a number of disadvantages: it cannot withstand significant loads during heavy snowfalls, does not have a very aesthetic appearance, and also does not hold the roofing material during strong gusts of wind from the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope. In fact, for competent designers these disadvantages are not so significant and, if necessary, they can easily be turned into advantages. So, for example, to prevent the roof from falling off, it is enough to plant trees on the site or build a higher building nearby. To improve the aesthetics of the perception of a pitched roof, it is enough to use a trick and implement a project with multi-level slopes of the slopes on two opposite sides of the house.

Helpful information! The pitched roof does not allow for the installation attic space. This fact must be taken into account when planning the roof.

Preparatory work

A pitched roof is erected with your own hands step by step only after preparatory work has been carried out. The service life of the structure depends entirely on their thoughtfulness. First of all, this concerns the correct planning of the roof and the selection of materials.

How to make a pitched roof?

For a pitched roof, the angle of inclination is the main criterion for its reliability. On the one hand, the larger the angle, the more effectively precipitation is removed, and on the other hand, it is the main element that must withstand gusts of wind. During severe winters with significant amount precipitation forms a thick layer of ice and snow on the roof, which can create loads exceeding the permissible ones, as a result of which the roof can be deformed and break. That is, the angle of inclination of the slope according to this criterion should be based on the climate.

Attention! The angle of inclination of the roof should be directed towards the highest wind flows in order to reduce the resistance of the structure to them.

Another factor that affects the slope of a roof is the roofing material, which may have different roughness or strength. Qualitatively, its applicability for roofing can be divided according to the angles of inclination:

• When the slope is tilted up to 10 0, it is allowed to use only rolled materials that have an even and relatively smooth surface. These include roofing felt, bitumen shingles, etc.
• When tilting from 10 0 to 20 0, it is possible to use corrugated materials such as slate, metallic profile or ondulin.
• When the slope is inclined 28 0 - 35 0, smooth metal roofing sheets, joined by seam method.
• Tilt angles of 25 0 -35 0 are suitable for laying metal or ceramic tiles.

Important information! Greater inclination angles than 35 0 are not recommended due to increased resistance to air flows and deterioration of streamlining, which can lead to failure of the roofing material.

Construction and design of a pitched roof

The construction of pitched roofs is quite simple and includes the following components:

• Rafter system. Designed to absorb the main load of the roof and distribute it evenly along the entire area of ​​the walls of the facility. Usually it is made of wooden beams with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, depending on the roof area and the number of supporting elements.
• Insulating layers. They are laid between the rafters and fixed to the sheathing and cladding on the inside of the building. Their role is to ensure maximum protection of the object and supporting structural elements from moisture or freezing.
• Lathing. Designed to secure roofing material and providing sufficient load-bearing capacity to support its own weight and the various expected loads. The material for its manufacture can be MDF panels, edged and unedged boards. The choice is made according to the type of roofing material.
• Roofing material. Allows you to provide excellent aesthetic properties of the roof, as well as protect it from precipitation.

Related article:

Types of roof supports

The roof support is selected based on the weight of the structure and the characteristics of the roofing material. There are the following types of supports:

• Layered. Represent additional structural elements, which are installed evenly along the length of the slope in the inner part of the roof.

• Hanging. The most simple circuit fastening based only on two supports located above the walls of the building.

• Sliding. Fastening to the walls is carried out on a special structure supported by a Mauerlat (harness).

Is it necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space?

In some structures, the requirements of the roofing material and the object itself, due to the peculiarities of its operating conditions, create the need to ensure ventilation of the roof. A striking example is a bathhouse, where the temperature difference between the internal premises and the external environment is more than 100°C. The main goal is to get rid of the formation of condensation and damage to the main elements. For a roof, it is necessary to provide a gap on the gables between the covering, the roof and the rafter system.

Create a drawing

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to take measurements of the wall trim, if this has not been done previously. After this, taking into account the specific features of the object, as well as the selected design parameters, the optimal parameters of the slope angle should be calculated.

The optimal distance between the rafters should be 1-1.5 m. The sheathing pitch is selected based on the requirements for laying the roofing material. Taking into account all the data, a drawing is created, and then the quantity of building materials that will need to be purchased is calculated. Additionally, it is recommended to make a reserve of materials in the amount of 10-15% of the total quantity.

List of required tools

Carrying out construction work will require the use of a number of tools that must be prepared in advance so as not to interrupt the installation. Therefore, before making the main structural elements and building a pitched roof, you need to prepare the following tools:

• screwdriver for comfortable connection of structural elements;
• pencil or marker for marking;
• building level for adjusting the position of roof parts;
• stapler for attaching waterproofing;
• hammer for hammering nails;
• saw for sawing rafters and sheathing to the required dimensions;
• tape measure for taking measurements;
• plumb line to control vertical position.

Do-it-yourself pitched roof step by step - description of the stages of work

After carrying out a number of preparatory work, you need to begin installation. The installation stages are as follows: installation of rafters, laying of sheathing, flooring insulating materials and the main roof. Each stage must be thought out in advance: everything necessary tools and some of the materials were raised to the roof for easy access to them. With this approach, there will be no downtime or delays, which will guarantee the completion of work on time.

Installation of the rafter system

The construction of a pitched roof truss system is relatively simple and does not require experience in carrying out this type of work or special knowledge. However, it is important to follow the sequence of installation steps.

In accordance with the drawing, we cut on the ground wooden beams 150x150 mm required sizes before lifting them onto the roof. Then be sure to treat them with antiseptics and apply protective layer. If this is not done, then insects or other pests may appear in the wood, which will damage the strength of the structure and will have to be replaced.

Important! All wooden beams and boards must be naturally dried and have a moisture level of no more than 10%. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the supporting structure with all the ensuing consequences.

On the side opposite to the angle of inclination of the slope, we install support posts, which are otherwise called pediment. At the same stage, additional supports should be installed, if provided for by the design. In most cases they are ordinary spacers. The interval between them for the installation of tiles is more than 3 m, and for profile sheets - more than 6 m.

Attention! At step-by-step installation If you have a pitched roof with your own hands, you definitely need to check the verticality of the racks, since even minimum angle their inclination can reduce the strength of the structure to a level below the minimum design, which will lead to unpredictable consequences.

We install the prepared beams on a wooden frame or Mauerlat with fastening “into the claw”, “into the bowl” or onto steel pins. For the first two options, you will need to make appropriate cuts to the Mauerlat and rafters at the points of their contact. To do this, mark the point of contact with a marker, and then saw off the corner with a saw to a depth of no more than 30% of the height of the rafter. Additionally, it is necessary to install special steel brackets to increase the strength of the rafters or anchors.

The installation interval of the rafters is determined by the weight of the roofing material. You should focus on the following values:

• for lightweight rolled roofing materials, the optimal distance between the rafters is 1.5-3 m;
• For sheet materials and tiles, the interval should be 0.7-1 m.

Helpful information! All rafters must be laid in the same plane without distortions to ensure reliable contact of the sheathing with them.

Related article:

Laying insulating layers

Laying insulation when installing a pitched roof with your own hands is mandatory step by step for those buildings that are planned to be used in winter, in order to increase their energy efficiency. To secure the thermal insulation on the side of the premises, you will have to cover the rafters MDF boards or boards with a thickness of 10 mm butt. In some cases, it is possible to lay plasterboard sheets with a vapor barrier film covering it to protect it from condensation.

The vapor barrier layer is laid overlapping at a distance of 15-20 cm with the obligatory gluing of the joining seams with special tape. Where the outer rafters adjoin, they are laid on a vertical surface to ensure maximum protection from moisture.

At the next stage, the thermal insulation material is laid. When installing a pitched roof with your own hands step by step, it is recommended to use mineral wool materials, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam as insulation. An important point when laying them, it is necessary to ensure tight contact with the rafters without the slightest gaps. A gap measuring 1 mm and 10 cm long can provide heat loss of several kilowatts, depending on the external temperature.

Helpful information! A pitched roof can be insulated with any thermal insulation material. The choice should be made on the basis of its effectiveness, cost and ease of installation.

A waterproofing film must be laid on top of the insulation. The method of installing it is similar to installing a vapor barrier. However, there is a significant nuance - the joining seams must necessarily fall on the rafters, and fastening is carried out on steel brackets using a construction stapler in increments of 10-15 cm.

1 - rafter; 2 — counter rail; 3 — waterproofing film; 4 - vertical sheathing; 5 - horizontal lathing; 7 — vapor barrier film; 8 - waterproofing seam.

Installation of sheathing and roofing material

When performing a step-by-step installation of a pitched roof with your own hands under soft and rolled roofing materials, the sheathing should be installed in the form of a continuous layer. In all other cases, planks are laid under the sheathing at intervals of 50-80 cm. The thickness of the boards should be more than 20 mm, and the width should be from 10 cm. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws to the rafter system. Then wind boards are installed, which will serve as a guide when laying the roofing material in terms of its alignment. However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to control the laying of the row using a level. For convenience, two bars are stuffed from the two end parts of the slope at a distance of about 0.5 m from the wall and a thread is pulled over them. It will be zero level, according to which it is necessary to align the row.

The roofing material is laid according to the appropriate technology. Installation begins from one of the corners of the slope and the entire roof is laid in order. The method of fastening is determined by the selected material.

Helpful information! For rigid sheet materials, it is recommended to place fasteners at a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner to prevent damage or deformation.

At the final stage, the end parts of the roof are sheathed in places where the slope is inclined.

Every master who has started an independent construction project understands that building a roof with your own hands step by step is a difficult task, but still doable. In the material below we will try to understand all the intricacies of the work and understand what the phased construction of a gable roof looks like.

Important: so that the assembly of the roof of a private house is as accurate as possible, and all the material is purchased for it with a small margin, it is better to involve professionals in designing the roof. At the design stages they will calculate the slope angle of the roof slopes and the amount required building material for it, including steam and thermal insulation, as well as roofing material, and they will give you a ready-made roof project.

To understand what a roof in a private house will look like with your own hands, you need to understand what types of roofs exist. Based on this, choose the type of construction.

Important: however, when designing a roof, you should always take into account the wind and sediment (rain, snow) load on the ceiling, as well as the weight of the roofing material.

So, today they most often install the following roofs of a private house with their own hands:

• Single-pitch.
• A roof that slopes to one side. This is the simplest roofing option, but it is not the most reliable for a private home, since such a structure is subject to a high load when discharging precipitation. Basically, such a roof is installed on auxiliary premises (verandas, outbuildings, sheds, etc.).. Gable roof Very simple and at the same time reliable option covering the roof of the house. Two slopes evenly distribute the load on rafter system
• when draining water and snow. Hip (hipped roof). It is a little more difficult to perform, but it is no less convenient option
• ceilings In most cases, a hip roof has four sides, two of which are shaped like a trapezoid and two are shaped like a triangle.
• Broken roof. As a rule, this is a gable roof with creases on both sides. Such a ceiling is convenient because you can arrange an additional attic living space underneath it, thereby increasing the usable area of ​​the house, especially if it has one floor.

Multi-gable roof. The most complex design option. It is used above a large box of a private house with a complex configuration. Important: it is worth remembering that step by step construction roofing for a house will be more difficult, the more complex the configuration of the room. This is due to the fact that for

complex design

a complex rafter system is required. Materials for work Independent construction of the roof of a private house requires preparation

• the right tools
• Boards with a section of 150x50 mm for rafters and crossbars. The cross-section of the boards may be smaller if the load on the roof is low (depending on the roofing material). The calculation of the number of boards for rafters is done in such a way that rafters can be installed on one side of the roof with a pitch of 80-120 cm. That is, if the length of the wall of the house is 4 meters, then it will require 5 rafter boards with a pitch of 80 cm.

Video: how to make a roof correctly ( step-by-step instruction on building a roof with your own hands).

Important: the installation step of the rafter legs depends on the weight of the future roofing material. The heavier it is, the smaller the rafter pitch should be.

• Beam with a section of 100x150 mm for racks in the roof frame.
• Hydro- and vapor barrier for roofing pie.
• Boards and beams for sheathing.
• Jigsaw or grinder with discs for wood.
• Brackets, angles, studs and screws/bolts.

Important: below for a complete understanding of the work process is a detailed video.

Work technique

Mauerlat device

Photo 1:

To mount the roof of a private house strong and reliable, you need to take care of attaching the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as a transitional boundary from the stone to the wooden part of the building. Secure it in two ways:

• Fill the reinforcing belt around the perimeter of the building and fix the construction studs in it. The pitch of the studs should be from one to one and a half meters.
• Having embedded the mounting studs in last rows house masonry.

Important: the height of the studs above the wall must be equal to the height of the timber being laid plus 3 cm. This calculation is necessary in order to securely fix the mauerlat with nuts and bolts.

Cutting and installing rafters

Photo 2:

The rafter system for the roof is the most difficult part of the work. It is important not only to install the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. In case of the slightest distortion, the entire roof frame will “walk”, which is not good for the roof. So, it will be easier and faster to build a roof with your own hands if you cut out a rafter pattern from one beam in advance and then form all the rest using it.

To create a pattern, you need to make an internal cut at the bottom of the rafter board at a right angle. This is where it will rest against the Mauerlat. The cutout is not made from the very edge of the board, but at a distance of 50 cm from it. These will be roof overhangs that protect the walls of the house from rain. The cut can be made using a block template or simply by drawing a right angle on the board.

Now you need to cut top edge boards in such a way that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be joined by cut edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, rest it on the mauerlat and raise it to the desired slope angle. A vertical line must be drawn in the center of the floor to the rafters. This will be the cutting line of the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter leg we will get an oblique cut.

Photo 3:

We assemble all the rafter legs cut out according to the pattern on the ground, securely connecting them at the top (ridge) with brackets, ties and bolts.

Important: if the length of the rafters exceeds 3 meters, then it is advisable to additionally strengthen the system with crossbars - transverse crossbars that are attached horizontally in relation to the rafter triangle. The location of the crossbar should be in the first third of the upper part of the triangle.

Installation of the rafter system begins with the two outer gables. They are installed, a control cord is pulled between them and the entire roof skeleton is leveled along it. All rafters are fixed to the mauerlat with special corners and brackets.

Photo 4:

Important: the frame can be further strengthened with special racks that support the crossbars. And the racks, in turn, it is advisable to install them on beds (special wide boards like skis that will remove the point load of the racks on the floor).

Sheathing device

Continuing the topic “how to build a roof,” it is worth noting that the next stage will be the installation of sheathing and construction roofing cake. As soon as the rafter system is ready, it is necessary to lay the sheathing, which will become the basis for all other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for insulation and roofing material.

Photo 5:

The roof sheathing can be mounted from unedged boards with a cross-section of 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards completely depends on the final roofing material. The heavier it is, the smaller the spacing of the sheathing should be. In general, the pitch of the sheathing is approximately 30 cm.

Important: it is advisable to first lay a layer of vapor barrier under the sheathing. It will protect the insulation from fumes penetrating from the premises of the house. Sheathing boards are already laid on top of the vapor barrier.

Now, timber is laid perpendicular to the sheathing wood in increments equal to the width of the slabs or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is laid between them, securely driving it into the existing grooves.

Photo 6:

From above, everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing material and fixed with another perpendicular lathing (in this case, horizontal). And the final roofing material is already installed on it.

Photo 7:

At the very end of the roof installation cottage It is also necessary to install a drain. It is made from plastic pipes cut lengthwise, or ready-made ones are purchased in advance. drainage elements. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof gables with the selected material. It can be either wood or stone.

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

We were assisted in preparing this material by technical specialist Andrey Filippov of the Spets.Krovlya company, which has been professionally installing roofs of private houses since 2009. The guys answered all our questions in detail, for which we express our gratitude to them!

Once the foundation and walls are ready, you can begin the last stage of building a house - installing the roof. The information in this article will help you understand the main aspects of this process. Do-it-yourself roof installation should begin with familiarization with the main types of roofs that are common in private construction.

Types of roofs

There are several main types of structures that differ from each other in the complexity of the work:

Before you begin installing your own roofing, observe the types of roofing on houses in your area. This will help you decide on the desired shape and type of design. Often on medium-sized houses there are broken mansard roofs. This situation is explained by the fact that such roofs allow you to equip the attic for living space. In addition, this type of roof is not difficult to install.

It should also be remembered that what larger area at home, the more additional elements and accessories may be on the roof surface. But if you do not have sufficient knowledge of creating complex roofs, then it is better to turn to specialists. How roofing is more difficult, the more complex the rafter system.

Materials you will need

Once you have decided on the type of roofing, you can move on to choosing the covering itself. The number and cross-section of rafters depends on it, as well as specifications the entire roof. After all, do-it-yourself roofing must be done correctly. The most durable rafter system should be under the tiles. Ceramic tiles have much more weight than slate and metal, so it is very important to calculate the characteristics of the rafters for such a coating (more details: ""). To install them, you need to purchase timber, boards, slats and nails. Also, to organize the roofing pie you will need insulation, hydro- and vapor barrier films, screws and nails. The consumption of all materials directly depends on the complexity of the roof, its area and the roofing material itself. Calculations of materials should be carried out in advance, and we recommend that you hire specialists for these purposes.

Sequence of work

The roof installation technology involves laying a mauerlat around the perimeter of the wall. This is a thick beam that serves as a support and foundation for the rafter system. The strength of this element directly affects the strength of the rest of the structure. Therefore, the choice of wood and fastening elements should be approached with special care.

The installation of the Mauerlat is checked with a level. Distortions in one direction or another cannot be allowed. For fastenings it is best to use anchor bolts. They are installed while the reinforcing belt is being poured, while the ends are left protruding (more details: " "). The Mauerlat will later be attached to the bolts. To do this, holes are made in it, strictly in step between the bolts. Place the timber with a sledgehammer, making sure that it lies flat and tight.

After laying the Mauerlat, they proceed to installation roof truss. The rafters are assembled from thick boards or timber. They will carry the entire main load, so you shouldn’t skimp on materials. Then the rafters are fastened with ties, lintels, spacers and crossbars. If you already know how to install a roof yourself, then all tasks become much easier. If this is your first experience of such work, then it is better to enlist the help of someone who has already installed the roof.

Remember that each rafter leg must rest against the mauerlat, and at the other end it is connected to the opposite rafter. The width of the step depends on the size of the roof and the weight of the roofing pie. The greater the expected load, the narrower the rafter pitch should be.

The part where the beams meet is called the ridge. Crossbars are reinforcing bridges between beams. If you are installing a roof with your own hands, the type of which is gable, then the end result should be a structure in the form of two triangles fastened together. It is more convenient to collect them on the ground. Installation is carried out directly at the top. Assembly of the roof structure is carried out only after installation ceiling beams. The rafters are installed as follows - first, the outer beams are fixed, which are fixed with a ridge beam, then proceed to the installation of all the rest. After this, the beams are finally fixed with nails and screws. Additional ties and jumpers are installed in the required places.

Along each rafter leg it is necessary to fill the counter batten slats. It is needed to organize the gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this way, sufficient space for ventilation is created. Sheathing slats are stuffed onto the counter-lattice. They are fixed with a certain step across the rafters. If all this technology seems too complicated to you to understand, we advise you to contact a more experienced builder, and also look at photos and videos of how to assemble a rafter system, etc. In fact, all the work is not so complicated, it’s just important to understand their principle .

Once the rafter system and sheathing are ready, you can proceed to the next stage of roof installation.

Protection and insulation

Before laying roofing material, it is necessary to arrange roof protection. This item is mandatory, as otherwise cold and moisture will enter the house.

The protective layers of the roof are usually arranged in the following order:

• vapor barrier, which protects the insulation from moisture;
• insulation - keeps the house warm;
• waterproofing, does not allow moisture to pass through to the thermal insulation;
• finishing coating with roofing material.

These four layers are usually called the roofing cake. Work on arranging protection begins with laying a heat insulator between the rafters. Mineral wool is increasingly used as such a material. It is resistant to wear, has a long service life and is lightweight. To reduce the cost of construction, you can use foam plastic, but it is highly toxic and flammable. Therefore, it is not recommended to do insulation in this way. To reliably protect the roof, the insulation is laid in two layers. Thus, you will get a gasket with a thickness of about 10 cm. For regions with a relatively warm climate and not severe winters, 5 cm is enough.

In addition to protecting the house from the cold, thermal insulation plays a role sound-absorbing material. This feature of insulation becomes especially important for houses in noisy places and in the case of using metal coatings as roofing materials.

After laying the insulation, begin installing the vapor barrier film. It is pulled from the inside, from the attic side. The film is secured to the rafter system with a stapler. Thus, it will close the thermal insulation from the inside. This allows you to protect mineral wool from steam that rises from living quarters.

Next steps roofing works are already produced from outside. A diffusion layer is laid on top of the thermal insulation. waterproofing membrane. It does not allow moisture that forms on the inside to pass through. inner surface roofing material or penetrates through small cracks. At the same time, the steam that forms in the heat insulator rises freely and passes through the film. That is, even if the thermal insulation is even slightly saturated with moisture, it will soon be easily removed from this “pie” layer. The film is secured to the sheathing with a stapler.

At this point, the roofing cake is almost ready and all that remains is to lay the final layer. Thus, you almost know everything you need to completely install the roof yourself.

Roof truss system, detailed video instructions:

Finish coating

If you carefully read the previous sections of the article, then you have probably already chosen the roofing material. But let's go through some of them again.

For example, slate has the lowest cost. It makes it quite easy to install the roof and at the same time get reliable protection Houses. But appearance This kind of roof is, to put it mildly, not very attractive. Since slate is not elegant, it is often used for installing roofs on extensions, bathhouses and garages. However, there will be slate good decision for a small country house.

Natural tiles has a much better appearance. A house with such a coating stands out well among others. Shingles have a lot of advantages, but you should remember that they are very heavy. Therefore, the rafter system must be strong enough and of high quality. The service life of such a roof is very long, its installation is relatively easy and quick. But you will have to attract specialists for the work, since the proper organization sheathing systems.

Metal tiles are very popular. It imitates the appearance of the previous coating. In addition, the technical specifications are at high level- durability, beauty, lightness and low cost. Installation of such a roof will not take much time. In addition, thanks to the coating with a protective polymer, metal tiles will last for many years without requiring repairs. From a certain distance, the roof appears to be covered with individual shingles, but in reality it is made up of sheets that must be laid in a specific sequence.

Regardless of the material chosen, you should always place the lower element under the upper one. Each type of roofing has its own installation characteristics, and therefore you must strictly adhere to the work instructions or seek help from professional roofers.

Very often, installing a roof with your own hands ultimately allows you to get a coating that is no different from the work of professionals. The lack of knowledge and experience is compensated by responsibility and the desire to do better, more reliable, more beautiful for yourself.

We do not recommend that amateur builders save on materials, but if you really have “golden hands”, then it is quite possible to save on some accessories. Such roof elements include drainage. It is necessary to ensure that the water that flows along the roof plane is reliably removed and does not fall on the walls and foundation. For these purposes, ordinary plastic pipes cut in half are perfect, from which they can be made. This is a great alternative to pre-made gutters. At the same time, the correctly selected pipe diameter allows you to create quality system sediment removal.

As a result, the constructed roof, regardless of the chosen material, must meet the requirements of strength and reliability. If you managed to create a coating that protects well from rain and snow, absorbs noise and cold, then you have done all the work correctly and the quality of living in the house will be very high.

The roof of the house is reliable and durable protection from rain, winds, scorching sun or cold snow. It keeps the rooms warm and decorates the appearance of the building. A do-it-yourself gable roof is the final stage of building a box, requiring training and skill from the builder.

Installation includes assembly of the rafter system and sheathing, hydraulic and thermal insulation work, laying roofing material, filing overhangs. The roof is built to last for many decades, so it must be safe, functional and durable.

A gable roof is the most common design in private construction. Represents two planes inclined in opposite sides at an angle to the horizon of 20-42°, connected at the top - the ridge. Thanks to this shape, snow, rain and melt water flow from the roof surface without lingering. As the angle of inclination increases, the windage of the structure increases, which in strong gusts of wind can lead to separation.

The load-bearing roof frame consists of a rafter system, which includes the elements:

Layers of hydro, sound and vapor insulation, insulation, if the attic is residential, and roofing materials are installed along the sheathing.

The rafter system of a gable roof in private construction is usually made of wood. The material is accessible, easy to process, and allows the construction of lightweight spatial structures that do not overload the walls and foundation.

Schemes of the rafter system of a gable roof.

Sometimes rolled metal is used to construct the frame - channels, pipes, I-beams, angles. This method is used much less frequently in individual construction. Steel structures are more expensive; assembly requires professional qualifications and equipment.

The cross-sections of standard load-bearing elements are:

• Mauerlat (lezhen) - timber with a thickness of 100 mm, a height of 150 mm, a log with a diameter of 170-190 mm;
• rafters - timber 50x150, 100x150 mm, logs hewn to one edge, boards laid on edge;
• racks - 100x100 mm;
• sheathing boards - thickness 25 mm.

For large spans of houses and high loads, the cross-sectional dimensions of the load-bearing elements are determined by strength calculations. With appropriate preparation with antiseptics, the wood is resistant to rotting. Special compounds - fire retardants - protect the material from fire.

In addition to the supporting frame and covering, the roof contains the following elements:

The roof is bordered on the sides by pediments—triangular-shaped parts of the walls. The attic can serve as an attic and be used as a living space for permanent or temporary residence.

Features of the construction of roofs with an angle

A gable roof is the simplest option for building a private house. The rafter system can have a layered, hanging or combined design.

Layered and hanging rafter system.

In the first case, the rafters are “leaned” - laid on external and internal supports. In the second, they are “suspended” with support only on the walls.

Layered construction

The layered system is used in the construction of houses with internal main walls that relieve external enclosing structures from thrust. The main load here is vertical.

The absence of horizontal expansion forces simplifies and reduces the cost of the roof supporting frame design. It consists of rafter legs, struts, crossbars, purlins and racks. The mauerlat or bench is mounted 100-150 mm above the ceiling level for free access to the bottom of the rafters. If the walls are weak, it is placed around the perimeter of the building. Otherwise, you can get by with short ones 60-70 cm long, placed under the rafters.

In wooden buildings, the function of the mauerlat is performed by the upper crown or trim. The lower end of the rafters is cut into the supporting beam, additionally secured with staples and wire twists. To prevent bursting stresses from arising in the ridge and the rafters do not move along the slope, the mating is done with an overlap or a butt, secured with overlays, bolts, dowels.

The system is reinforced with purlins, struts and racks. In addition, this helps to reduce the cross-section of the rafters and deflections. The elements are connected with metal fasteners - nails, staples, bolts, plates, rings, toothed discs.

Installation of a roof using the hanging method

Hanging rafters are installed for house spans of 6-14 m. Relying only on the outer walls, the load-bearing beams absorb significant pushing forces. To distribute them, additional horizontal and vertical elements are introduced into the structure - crossbars, tie rods, headstocks (racks resting on the tie rod).

The wider the span of the building, the greater the stresses that arise in the structures, and the more complex the structure of the frame. Up to 6 m, ties combining the functions of floor beams are sufficient. Above - additional crossbars are introduced. In houses without an internal load-bearing wall, exceeding a width of 9 m, the roof system is strengthened with headstocks and struts. A fragment of two rafters, tie rods and ties is called a truss.

In some cases, the Mauerlat is not installed. The finished trusses are mounted on a board laid along the top of the wall on a layer of waterproofing. The rafters are cut into a tie or laid with a beveled edge. Secure with dowels, pads, clamps.

The ridge knot is more difficult to solve than in layered roofs. The rafters are cut into a horizontal beam, and the joint is reinforced with wooden or metal plates. The construction of a hanging rafter system is more complex and expensive than a non-thrust system. Therefore, trusses are often installed in increments of 3-4 m, connected by purlins along which layered rafters are laid. This method is called combined.

The advantage of hanging structures is the ability to use the attic space as an attic.

Choosing a roof design

How to make a gable roof of a house must be determined at the design stage before installing the box. If there is an internal main wall It is advisable to use a layered system, in other cases - a hanging or combined one.

The angle of inclination of the rafters depends on the wind loads in the region - the greater they are, the lower the roof should be. The choice of roofing material also affects the slope. For various types coating manufacturers recommend optimal angle values.

Important. The decisive factors when choosing a roof structure are the width of the span, load from snow, wind, and dead weight. The higher the indicators, the more powerful the sections of the elements should be, the more reliable the execution of the units.

Installation of a gable roof

For self-made Quite a difficult task - a gable roof of a house, step-by-step instructions will help you build it correctly and without mistakes.

Mounting the Mauerlat

To make a support beam, use a beam or log, which is cut on one side for laying on the wall. The base must be level and horizontal. Waterproofing from roll materials is laid under the Mauerlat or coating compounds are used. This will protect the wood from rotting.

Important. It is recommended to install an armored belt along the top of the wall. It gives rigidity to the structure and at the same time serves as a solid foundation for fastening the rafter system.

Fastening methods used when installing the Mauerlat:

• Steel wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm. In the brickwork, under each rafter leg, 3-4 rows below, thin reinforcement twisted 2-3 times is laid. After the solution has dried, the timber is placed on a layer of waterproofing, tied with hardware, and the ends are firmly secured.
• Metal anchors or stiletto heels L-shaped. They are laid into the wall during the masonry or concreting process in increments of 1-1.5 m to a depth of 45 cm. The rod must protrude above the Mauerlat by at least 3 cm so that the nut and washer can be tightened. Preliminarily mark the location of the holes for fasteners by placing the beam on the hay and hitting it.
• Dowels with dowels. A plastic sleeve is driven into the prepared hole and a self-tapping screw is screwed into the concrete. Good result allows the use of chemical anchors. The Mauerlat is mounted on the fastener in the same way as the previous description.
• Curved fittings. Cuttings of steel wire with a diameter of 10 mm in the shape of the letter L are laid between rows of blocks or bricks to a depth of 30-40 cm, the upper edge extends 25 cm above the Mauerlat. After installing the beam, the reinforcement is bent and fixed with nails.
• Wooden plugs and staples. Pieces of antiseptic timber with a length equal to the longitudinal size of the brick are embedded in the masonry directly under the rafter leg or 1 row lower. The Mauerlat is secured to the plugs with metal clamps.

The timber for the mauerlat is spliced ​​along the length with an oblique or straight lock. In the corners they are connected “in half a tree”, “in a paw”. If the wood is not sufficiently dry, an anchor with a nut is recommended. The position of the beam is adjusted every year until the intense shrinkage stops. This usually takes five years.

Important. Hardware in masonry or concrete should be as motionless as possible. The fastener is unreliable if the anchors are mounted at an angle or their length is insufficient.

Installation of hanging rafters

A do-it-yourself gable roof with hanging rafters with a span of up to 6 m is mounted in the following sequence:

1. Level the base horizontally.
2. The position of the rafters is marked on the top trim. Usually there is 0.8-1.5 m between them.
3. Trusses or arches are assembled on the ground from rafters, tie rods, and crossbars.
4. Raise and install the trusses into the design position, starting with the outermost ones. Each is fixed with temporary jibs to maintain the vertical, which is controlled by a plumb line or level.
5. The cords are pulled along the lower and upper points between the outer structures. Intermediate elements are placed on them.
6. Trusses or arches are secured with ridge boards, monitoring the correspondence of the distances between the upper and lower points.

Important. If there is more than 6 m between the supports, the truss is reinforced with a headstock and struts. During installation, the rafter structure is connected with temporary fastenings made of diagonal boards.

Options for attaching hanging rafters to the Mauerlat

In the spacer system, the connection between the rafters and the Mauerlat is performed using two technologies:

• in a rigid way that excludes movement of elements;
• movable, or sliding, designed to compensate for shrinkage deformations of wood.

Rigid fastening is carried out with or without a gash. In the first case, a saddle is cut out of the rafters to fit on the support beam. For this, a template is used. For an additional area of ​​support and blocking the movement of the system, the cut is made on the Mauerlat (mount with a tooth) or on a thrust beam. Taking out wood weakens the section, so it is not recommended to cut more than 1/3 of the height of the board or beam.

In a unit without a cut, the forces from the rafters are transferred to the Mauerlat only through fasteners - metal plates, angles and dowels. Additionally, a thrust block up to 1 m long is installed, which relieves the load on the joint.

With the movable method, the elements are not rigidly connected. Wooden structures can move with fluctuations in humidity and change size when drying. Special sliding supports are used that allow the rafters to move along the axis. Such fastenings are often used in wooden buildings where deformations are significant.

In the case where the rafters are rigidly connected with a tie into one structure, the beam itself is attached to the Mauerlat using corners.

Installation of layered rafters

The installation sequence of a non-expanding system differs from a hanging one:

1. A bench is laid on the internal supporting wall or pillars at the same level as the mauerlat.
2. Install racks.
3. A ridge beam is mounted on them.
4. To prevent the supports from moving, they are connected by longitudinal and lateral braces.
5. The rafters are supported on racks and the timber is alternately, starting from the outer ones, secured in the ridge with an overlay or butt.

Galvanized corners, overlays, self-tapping screws, clamps, T-shaped plates, and studded fasteners are used.

Installation of sheathing

Sheathing is the basis for laying the roofing covering. At the same time, it strengthens the rafter system, giving it stability and rigidity. It is made of boards, bars, moisture-resistant plywood, OSB. Boards or bars are mounted along the ridge. If the distance between them is up to 1 cm or the sheathing is made of boards or sheets, then it is called flooring. If the step is larger, then it is a sparse design.

For laying large-sized rigid materials - wavy slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, folded sheets use sparse lathing. It is stuffed according to a template.

If the material is small-sized, heavy or flexible - ceramic or bitumen tiles, ondulin, rolled types- use flooring.

The lathing can be single or double. In the latter case, a series of bars are first laid in increments of 0.6-1 m, then boards or boards are placed on them.

If the roof is supposed to be insulated and a full-fledged roofing pie is installed, then an additional counter-lattice is installed. Its function is to create ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.

Algorithm for installing lathing with counter lathing:

1. Waterproofing is attached to the rafter legs.
2. 40 mm thick bars are stuffed on top of the rafters.
3. The sheathing boards are laid perpendicularly.

The work is completed by installing the roof covering. Insulation and vapor barrier are installed from the inside. thermal insulation mats placed between the rafters, the film or membrane is fixed on top.