Do-it-yourself screed step by step. Do-it-yourself concrete floor screed: a detailed process of how to fill the floors with a concrete screed. Mounting accessories

The screed is the layer between concrete base floor and its top covering. It is necessary for high-quality leveling of the floor. The durability of the result of the work depends on the screed. Screed installation is needed regardless of the type of coating used: parquet, tile, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.

According to the manufacturing method

1. Wet. Represents cement-sand mixture. A special dry composition is also sold - it is made on a cement basis, or using gypsum. They are poured and the surface is completely leveled. If cement or sand was used for the screed, the surface is reinforced. Dry mixes do not require this procedure. The option is universal, common in construction. 10 cm or less is the optimal layer thickness.
2. Dry. Also called a screed. Represents a design from sheets of the large size from 15 to 30 mm thick. In the case of strong surface differences in levels, the dryness of the screed will not allow achieving the desired degree of leveling. Then, under the floor covering, a layer of dry screed is placed on top of the wet one.
3. Semi-dry. It differs from the classic, wet, manufacturing method by a significantly smaller amount of water in the mixture. Benefits of this type screeds are a short period of time between laying the screed and the floor, no leakage. The presence of fiber in the composition of the mixture allows you to minimize the number of shrinkage cracks.

   
   

Mechanized semi-dry floor screed provides a minimum amount of construction debris after laying. The mixture is usually kneaded outdoors and fed through a hose. For convenience, you can contact the companies involved in laying semi-dry floor screed. One of these, "EUROSTROY 21 VEK" (the company's website www.prestigehouse.ru), uses modern technology and German technology.

By number of layers

1. Single layer. It is laid for 1 time to the required thickness.
2. Multilayer. Consists of rough and finish surfaces. For example, to ensure rigidity at the junction of the slabs with the ceiling, a rough concrete version is first laid, and when finishing, an absolutely smooth finishing screed is laid on top. Rough screed in thickness - 20 mm or more, finishing screed - from 3 to 20 mm.

By type of connection

1. Solid. It is firmly bonded to the base coat layer.
2. floating. Not linked to anything. It is used when it is necessary to use a film with waterproofing properties, as well as sound or heat insulation. Optimal Thickness- 35 mm or more.

Screed materials

Cement is the most common screed binder, as is gypsum. The following fillers improve the properties of the mixture: sand, polymers, mineral-based additives. To obtain the desired consistency, the composition is diluted with water.

1. . The screed from it is moisture resistant, it is used for any type of floor structure. Cement is mixed with sand, the optimal ratio is 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand.

   There is also sand concrete - a mixture sold in stores. Sand concrete has a drawback - fast shrinkage. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the uniformity of the composition and the thickness of the poured layer, which must be at least 30 mm, otherwise the screed will crack.

   For uniform stress distribution and protection from cracking, the screed is reinforced from the inside or a part of the propylene-based fiber is added to the solution. After laying, the screed is periodically moistened, for about 10-14 days. The screed dries for a long time and for moisture-sensitive coatings - laminate and parquet - it will remain too wet for at least 20 days.

2. Gypsum. Plastic, easy-to-install screed. Does not shrink, laying it in a thin layer is allowed. Complete drying - in 1-2 days. Recommended for wooden floors. But it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity, as the gypsum will become like dough. If polymers are added to the gypsum, the screed can be used in rooms with moderate humidity.
3. Concrete. In terms of composition and manufacturing technology, a concrete screed is similar to a cement screed. The main difference is that cellular concrete is added to the mixture. There are types of concrete screed: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
4. Self-levelling or self-levelling compound. Sold in ready-made, designed for various floor coverings. It happens thin-layer, from 2 to 7 mm, and thick-layer, from 5 to 30 mm. If the floor irregularities are large, first make a rough rough screed, and put a self-leveling mixture on top.
5. . The composition is similar to drywall. It is a durable building board coated with waterproofing compound. Laying is done on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. The plates are placed with a slight overlap on each other to close the joints. The main advantage of the screed is that you do not need to wait for drying. The final floor covering can be installed the next day. Often used for mounting screeds in apartments.

materials

1. 1. 1. Concrete mixer.
      2. Hydraulic level.
      3. Rule.
      4. Construction bubble level.
      5. Master OK.
      6. Drill with mixing nozzle.
      7. Stationery knife.
      8. Bucket.
      9. Pencil, marker.
      10. Roulette.
      11. Ruler.

Stages of work

Stage 1. Definition of the horizon

The zero level is measured using a spirit level - this is how the water level is called. Marks are placed in all rooms. Optimal Height- from 1.2 to 1.5 m from the floor level. The starting mark is placed anywhere. The second and all subsequent ones are marked by the water level along the horizon line, but not the floor.

All dots connect and get zero level. Throughout all installation work it will define the horizontal plane. Check the zero level accuracy several times.

Sometimes expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. Then they retreat a few cm from the marked point and make an additional line for pouring the selected pillow material under the screed at this level.

Stage 2. Determine the height differences

This is necessary to calculate the correct level of screed and the required volume of mortar.

AT different rooms we measure the distance from the old floor to the zero level point. We write the resulting value at each measurement point. It is better to make more points so that the measurements are more accurate. Minimum value is the maximum level of the old floor, and highest value shows it minimum height. The difference in values ​​is the height difference of the old floor.

For example, max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

That is, the height difference is 5 cm.

30 mm - the minimum thickness of the cement screed, where the plasticizer is added. Earlier, we already mentioned that otherwise cracks will go along the screed. Builders sometimes add liquid soap as a plasticizer. And on the packaging of the self-leveling mixture, the manufacturer indicates the optimal layer thickness.

With a multi-level screed - calculation of the difference in heights. Differences in height along the level of the floor at the joints of the coatings are not allowed. The screed is planned differently by levels: the thickness of the coatings is not identical. The difference in it must be compensated for by differences in the levels of the screed.

Let's say in the kitchen - ceramic tile, in the room - parquet. The layer under parquet will be thicker than for tiles and is multi-layered. We sum up the thickness of all layers, including the parquet itself, subtract the sum of the layers of the tile, including itself. We get a screed drop. It is recommended to take a spare 2 mm from the side of the tile if the parquet layer is higher.

Stage 3. Surface preparation

We clean the base coat. Usually a construction vacuum cleaner is used. In its absence, you can simply sweep well, then wash everything with a regular cleaning agent. With the help of a primer, additional dedusting can be done. The use of Betonokontakt means is optimal - it provides good adhesion for the screed and the base, makes the surface rough.

Partitions and walls require temporary waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use roofing material. The height of the roofing tape sticker is 10-15 cm from the level of the screed.

Next, we look at the base. Delaminations are not allowed, they must be cleaned. If there are large cracks, cover them with a thick mortar based on non-shrinking cement. If the floors were “ironized” during construction or smeared with “milk from cement”, then the film is removed so that there is proper adhesion to the base coat.

Stage 4. Setting up beacons

The screed is aligned on them. Rigid elements are usually used as them - metal profiles that can be fixed in a fixed position and not be afraid that they will bend at an unnecessary moment.

The mounting method is different: you can build a hill of cement or simply screw the beacons into the floor. An important requirement is the parallelism of the guides. The distance between adjacent ones should allow putting on the ends of the rail, along which the composition will be leveled.

Beacons with the help of a rack level are aligned in length and ratio with each other. Where height differences are formed, plywood formwork is placed so that the solution cannot flow into another room or area.

Stage 5. Mixing the composition and pouring the screed

Few people do it manually, they often use a concrete mixer - this way the composition is more uniform. Do not increase the proportion of water for the homogeneity of the mixture, otherwise the screed will be fragile. For this purpose, special additives are sold that make the solution plastic and homogeneous.

The filling should resemble a thick dough without lumps, spreading, but not spreading over the surface. It is used for 1-1.5 hours and in one go. It is not allowed to leave it for several days. Also, you can not fill the room in parts for several days. An exception is a screed of different levels or different rooms.

The solution is poured between the beacons and leveled with a rail-rule, which is moved strictly along the beacons, shifting the excess mixture. To level the surface of the screed, the rule additionally makes movements to the right and left.

The process of leveling the concrete mass using the rule

Video - Floor screed

Stage 6. Post-installation care

A simple operation often overlooked by workers. It consists in watering the coating 2 times a day. If this is not done, the screed will crack. Irrigation period - 10 days.

The cement screed needs up to 28 days until it becomes strong enough. Occurring at the same time chemical processes require sufficient moisture.

Beacons are pulled out approximately 3 days after the end of the installation of the screed. The recesses are primed and filled with a new portion of the solution. After that, we moisten the coating again and cover it with a polyethylene film for 2 weeks. In some cases, this is not recommended, then moisturizing is also done often - 2 times a day.

Stage 7. Checking work

It is done in several stages.

Do-it-yourself floor screed is a task that you can face if you decide to do it overhaul in an apartment or a private house. It can be fine and rough, for wet and dry rooms, hard and floating, dry, semi-dry and traditional wet. A rough screed is understood as a leveling layer of cement-sand mortar on top of the floor slab, small irregularities are allowed, since it involves additional alignment the next step.

The finishing screed is the finishing layer of the floor finish, it must be perfectly even and can serve as self coated, or the basis for laying floor coverings (linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.), as a rule, self-leveling mixtures are used to create it. The main functions of the screeds are to level the surface, if necessary, to create slopes, to give the surface strength and rigidity, as well as heat and sound insulating properties. In this article we will tell you how to properly make a floor screed and what are its features for rooms for various purposes.

Types of screeds

Screeds are classified depending on the main material included in their composition. Do-it-yourself floor screed can be concrete, magnesite, anhydrite, asphalt, mosaic, gypsum-based and epoxy resins. Currently on the market building materials many various kinds ready-made dry mixes with which you can make a floor screed with your own hands.

Screed for wet rooms

For wet rooms, the composition of the screed will be slightly different. Let's look at how to make a floor screed in the bathroom. A prerequisite is the creation of waterproofing. It is recommended to use as a waterproofing layer modern material- euroroofing material. This roll material laid in 2 layers dry with an overlap of joints.

Important! Bring the edges of the waterproofing onto the wall to a height of 5-7 cm. This will protect the joints between the walls and the floor from leaking.

After that, beacons are laid from metal profiles on the concrete mortar strictly by level. Wet room mortar is made from three components: sand, cement and a dry waterproofing mixture, which is sold in bags. (for example manufacturer Ceresit). The video shows in detail the process of making a concrete screed in the bathroom:

Screed for underfloor heating

To install a warm floor, a cable or pipes (in the case of a water heated floor) are laid out on the surface, and then they are poured with a 1: 3 cement-sand mortar with the addition of reinforcing additives.

The video shows how to properly make a floor screed for water heating:

floating screed

This type takes place if the floor slab needs additional heat and sound insulation. The solution is laid on top of thermal insulation and sound insulation on a special layer (you can use a polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.1-0.15 mm). The layer performs the function of separating the solution and insulation. For a floating screed, a cement-sand or calcium-sulfate mortar is used.

It is recommended to use a damper tape, which is glued at the junction of walls and floor around the entire perimeter of the room, taking into account ledges and columns. It protects the surface from cracking during concrete shrinkage, and also increases the sound insulation of the room. The height of the overlap of the tape on the wall is taken in accordance with the total thickness of all layers of the future floor.

Video. floating floor. Types of solutions, pouring methods, nuances, subtleties:

Dry and semi-dry screeds

In the case when it is required to carry out repairs in an accelerated time and there is no time for the full drying of the traditional wet screed, you can perform a rough screed using a semi-dry method. To do this, a small amount of water is added to the cement-sand mixture, sufficient to obtain a loose concrete mass after kneading. It is also necessary to perform reinforcement with the addition of fiberglass to the composition of the solution. After that, the mixture is applied to the base with the rule aligned with the beacons, and then the surface is polished. The fastest and highest quality this technology performed by mechanized method.

Dry screed is a backfill of dry filler - quartz sand either expanded clay, on top of which plywood is mounted, or chipboard, GVL. This technology provides good sound insulation, a light weight structures, the absence of wet work in the room, and consequently - the absence of dirt and the risk of fluid leakage from the mortar into the ceiling. This type of screed is easy to do with your own hands, because. it is easy to manufacture, does not require machine mechanisms, special equipment and special care, however, it is afraid of moisture, and if it gets into the structure, swelling of the floor, deformation of the surface and the formation of irregularities can occur.

Video. Dry screed technology. This method is suitable if you need to meet a tight deadline and do not want to mess with a liquid solution:

Finishing screeds

Finishing screeds often use factory-made finishing self-levelling mixtures. They are on cement and polymer base. Self-leveling floors are easy to maintain, they form a solid, even and smooth surface which is easy to clean. Bulk floors are divided into types depending on the binder that is used in their composition. There are methyl methacrylic (MMA), polyurethane, polyurethane-cement, acrylic-cement and epoxy compounds.

Advice! Strength grade finish coat should not be higher than the grade of the rough screed mortar on which it is laid. Otherwise, deformation and delamination will occur over time.

Video. Finishing screed device using a self-leveling mixture:

Screed laying technology

Let us consider in more detail the device of a traditional wet screed using concrete as an example. Do-it-yourself floor screed is performed using the following tools:

• building level;
• rule;
• beacons (guides);
• drill with a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• putty knife.

Depending on the purpose of the room and the materials used, the technology will vary. Consider the stages of this process:

• preparation of the base, primer;
• thermal insulation (if necessary);
• waterproofing (if necessary);
• reinforcement (if necessary);
• placement of beacons (guides) with leveling;
• mixing the solution;
• filling;
• surface care.

The first step is to prepare the foundation. It must be dedusted, garbage removed, in the presence of dirt and stains of oil, bitumen, it is necessary to remove them. If there is an old dilapidated screed, it must be dismantled. After that, it is necessary to treat the surface of the floor slab with a primer using a roller or brush and allow to dry for 5 hours. If there are plumbing and sewer pipes, then you need to conduct their wiring on the floor.

For thermal insulation of the room, you can use expanded clay or expanded polystyrene, the main thing is that the surface of the insulation is rigid. If do-it-yourself floor screed is done on ground base, then first you need to lay a layer of expanded clay, and then a layer of sand, with the obligatory compaction of each layer. For greater effect, it is recommended to moisten with water.

Waterproofing is usually carried out in wet rooms (where there are connection points for plumbing and sewer systems). To protect against dampness, waterproofing is also sometimes arranged in the premises of the first floor, basements.

After that, reinforcement is performed. It is used in the event that the surface is planned to be subjected to heavy loads. To do this, use reinforcing bars, the cross section of which is selected depending on the planned load (diameter value in the range from 8 to 20 mm), or reinforcing mesh (bar diameter 6 mm). Sometimes plastic reinforcing meshes are used instead of metal ones. Reinforcing meshes will also help to avoid deformation of the concrete layer and cracking in case of shrinkage of the building. Concrete is a brittle material and does not work well in bending and tension, reinforcement allows you to eliminate these shortcomings and protect the surface from cracks.

After that, the placement of beacons (guides) is performed. They should be set clearly in accordance with the building level, tk. the subsequent flatness of the surface depends on this.

The next step is to pour the solution. When the screed is ready, it is left for a while until completely dry. Do not forget to take care of the screed during this time, periodically spraying it with water. Concrete slowly gains its strength (within 27 days), it must harden gradually. If it dries too quickly, cracks may form. Therefore, as a care, you need to moisten the finished screed with water 2 times a day for a week, and then cover it plastic wrap and leave for 2 weeks.

In this article on the site, we will look at how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands in an apartment, you can see step by step video pouring the screed, respectively, when self-fulfillment of all instructions, you can reduce the cost of the work performed as a whole.

Let's find out what a screed is - it is nothing more than a floor layer (base), on which the finishing floor covering is laid: laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. The type and further operation of your flooring will depend on the quality of the screed.

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Types of screed

The floor screed in the apartment can be of two types:

1. Monolithic is cement-sand, gypsum (anhydrite), self-leveling, etc.
2. Dry or prefabricated from building boards.

The screed must be selected depending on the room. In rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), gypsum and prefabricated screeds should not be used.

Preparatory work

After you have decided on what kind of floor screed you will do, you need to prepare the base for pouring. To do this, it is necessary to remove the old floor covering and all exfoliated parts of the base and preferably vacuum to remove dust from the surface.

Then we cover the base with a primer for better adhesion (Betokontakt is ideal, but cheaper is also possible).

For further work, you need to find the zero level. To do this, you will need a water level or a laser level.

We find the zero level immediately for all rooms of the apartment. To do this, at a height of about 1-1.5 m from the floor, put a mark in an arbitrary place and then transfer the marks to all the walls in the apartment using a water level.

You should have marks on all walls in all rooms. These marks must be connected with straight lines.

Now we measure the distance from the drawn level to the floor. This measurement must be made in several places on each wall. The smallest value will show that in this place the floor height is maximum.

From the smallest value, we subtract the thickness of the screed and measure the resulting length down from the previously drawn level. After connecting all the newly marked labels, a zero level will be obtained for all rooms. This is the level to which the future screed will be poured.

Please note that the thickness of the floor screed cannot be less than 30 mm (exception - leveling with self-leveling compounds or levelers).

A cement screed is made from one part of cement and three parts of sand. But now there are many ready-made dry mixes that only need to be diluted with water and can be used.

Video: do-it-yourself floor screed step by step instructions:

Do-it-yourself floor screed pouring technology

The technology of floor screed in an apartment includes several stages. A roofing tape is glued to the walls from below so that its upper edge is 15 cm higher than your future screed.

Also, if through holes and cracks in the floor are found, they must be sealed with non-shrink cement (BUC), so that later, when pouring the solution, it does not leak to the neighbors from below.

The next stage of pouring is the installation of beacons. All further work depends on the quality and correct installation of beacons. We use metal T-shaped guides as beacons.

We fasten them to the same solution from which we will make the screed. Laying it out in heaps. The first beacon should be at a distance of 20cm from the wall. Subsequent beacons are installed parallel to each other, at a distance of 30-40 cm less than the length of the rule.

The longer the rule, the smoother the screed will be.

After laying the beacons on piles of mortar, they must be leveled with a level. The alignment should be lengthwise along the beacon and also between all beacons. As a result, the level in all positions should be at zero.

After leveling, wait for the solution to completely harden.

After installing the beacons and solidifying the solution, you can proceed directly to pouring the solution. To do this, knead the solution and pour it between two beacons, starting from the far edge.

Then, as a rule, we tighten (level) it along the beacons to ourselves. And so on until the entire floor screed is filled. Filling is best done together, since while one is leveling, the second at this time is kneading the next portion of the solution.

And now you have finished pouring the floor screed, but it's too early to relax. Now you need to create conditions under which it will harden correctly.

It takes 24-28 days for the cement to fully harden and gain strength. To prevent too early drying of the screed, it must be moistened 2-3 times a day. This should go on for about two weeks.

You can also cover it with a film, then it will be possible to moisturize as needed.

After 5-8 days it will be possible to walk on the screed, but it will be completely ready in a month. Speeding up in such matters will not lead to anything good, but on the contrary, you can only spoil all the work done.

Quality checking

After the necessary time has passed, you can check the quality of the floor screed.

1. We look visually - it should be a gray uniform color.
2. Next, we look at the evenness of the surface. Using a two-meter rule laid on the floor, we check the size of the gap. The gap according to our standards should not exceed 4 mm.
3. The third point will be a hardness test. If the screed is not strong enough, then, as already mentioned, it can simply crack. We check for hardness by hitting a hammer on a tangent.

That's all the main points when pouring the floor screed with your own hands. By following these rules, you can avoid many mistakes, loss of time, and as a result, save your nerves and reduce the cost of apartment renovation.

By the way, information to think about the scale of work - for a 80 m2 screed, you will need about 100 bags of dry mix.

Video instruction on how to make a floor screed:

If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do it below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!

No major renovation is complete without the installation of floor coverings. In this regard, a reasonable question arises: “What is the best way to make a floor screed?”, Because the choice of building materials is quite large. We decided to consider the most practical and popular options for mixtures and materials for the construction of screeds.

Floor screed

Functions

Before you make a floor screed, you need to understand what it is actually needed for.

To do this, let's list the main functions on the example of which it will become clear how important and even necessary it is:

• Monolithic reinforced concrete slab, which is obtained by pouring a cement-sand mortar on reinforcing mesh, is beautiful solid foundation for subsequent layers of the floor cake;
• Thanks to the reinforcement, the slab acts as one solid monolithic construction, which takes the entire load and evenly distributes it over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, and then transfers the force to the supporting building structures of the building;
• Often, without a full-fledged concrete floor screed, it is not possible to level the floor surface, and this necessary condition for the installation of most modern floor structures and laying technologies;
• The screed allows you to mount structures such as underfloor heating;
• Only with the help of a screed it is possible to create a sufficiently strong and even coating for industrial and storage facilities with increased floor load, wheeled vehicles and powerful heavy equipment.

Important! The functions of a cement screed for the floor are so diverse and fundamental that neglecting such an important and functional element it is forbidden. Therefore, concrete and polymer cement bases are found in almost all modern building structures regardless of their purpose and intended mode of operation.

Peculiarities

In order for the building you built to building codes and rules, as well as to serve correctly and for a long time, you need to understand what features are characteristic of this structural element. These features are dictated by the physical processes occurring in the materials that make up this design.

For convenience, we have compiled a list of the most important and defining characteristics and processes:

• Like any material, concrete stone is subject to thermal expansion. Due to the peculiar geometry of the part (a flat plate of a large area), volume changes can occur unevenly, as a result of which cracks and other destruction of the product are often observed. For this reason, it is sometimes necessary to perform expansion joints and damper gaps during the construction of screeds;
• The board has a very high compressive strength, but does not accept strong bending loads that can easily break an inelastic product. Therefore, the base under the slab must be well tamped and compacted to avoid shrinkage and other movements that could disturb the uniform support;
• The stone structure that occurs after concrete has matured is quite fragile, especially when exposed to inevitable vibrations and uneven forces. Therefore, steel reinforcement must be included in its composition, which binds the entire structure and prevents it from crumbling;
• Concrete does not like excessive moisture. Moreover, the reinforcement, which is located in the thickness concrete slab, will corrode and within enough short term will become completely unusable, which will lead to a decrease in the bearing capacity of the entire structure, a decrease in its quality and service life. Therefore, it is necessary to remember about waterproofing measures.

Important! For successful construction, it is necessary to remember all the listed features. reinforced concrete structures for the floor, since the neglect of any of them inevitably leads to serious problems and destruction.

Types of materials for screed

Cement-sand mixture

The most popular way to build screeds is to form a slab from a mixture of sand and cement with the addition of crushed stone or gravel. Cause- the most reasonable price of materials and repeatedly tested and proven technology of installation work.

Most often, this recipe is used: three parts of sifted cement are added to one part of M400 cement. river sand middle fraction. If the screed is made on a concrete base, then adding gravel is optional.

If a responsible base is needed (when working on soil or other moving bases), then gravel is added to the composition of the solution in an amount equal to the amount of sand.

Advice! A mixture of sand and cement can be bought ready-made, but there is not much point in this. Therefore, it is better to cook it yourself, it is not too difficult.

When manually preparing the solution, a sheet of metal or another lining is laid on the floor, on which a bag of sand and a third of a bag of cement are poured. Then another bag of sand and cement is added, and finally a third bag of sand and the rest of the bag of cement. The resulting pile is mixed with a shovel until a homogeneous composition.

Then a “crater” is made in the material slide, into which water is poured. After 10 - 15 minutes of waiting, the mixture is stirred, adding water to the consistency of thick sour cream. Now the solution can be used for its intended purpose.

Advice! It is better to use a small concrete mixer for such work, it will reduce the labor intensity of the work and increase their speed and productivity. It is not necessary to buy this tool, since now it can be rented in a large supermarket.

Ready-mixed concrete

If you do not want to prepare the solution yourself, then you should consider using ready mix. To do this, it is enough to order the delivery of the required amount of ready-mixed concrete. This method is relevant for working with large volumes and areas, as well as when working on unpaved and unreliable bases, where a high-strength slab is required.

Important! The advantage of ready-mixed concrete is that this material is prepared at the factory, where it is possible to maintain the recipe as accurately as possible in accordance with SNiP, and it is also possible to add all kinds of additives and plasticizers that improve the quality of the solution and its plasticity, and this facilitates work with the material.

In addition, you can order a concrete pump that is able to supply the solution to a sufficiently high height and pour it from a hose directly onto the floor surface, which is very, very convenient. This approach greatly simplifies the work and speeds up the installation process of the screed.

Naturally, this will cost extra money, but often the result justifies such an expense due to tight deadlines and less labor.

Self-leveling compounds

This technology has many names: self-leveling screed, self-levelling screed, etc. Many do not understand the difference between a self-leveling floor and a screed based on ordinary cement and sand.

In fact, everything is very simple: the composition of self-leveling floors includes powders of a very fine fraction and special plasticizers, due to which the solution turns out to be almost liquid and is able to smooth itself out under the influence of gravity.

These formulations may only be used concrete base, and this basis must be carefully prepared. Their main advantage is a perfectly flat surface. In addition, the use of self-leveling floors makes it possible to significantly reduce the thickness of the screed, which is very important in apartments and houses with low ceilings, which in our country is not so little.

Important! It should be remembered that bearing capacity such screeds are limited, so they are used as a floor finish. If it is necessary to equalize serious level differences or organize solid foundation, then it is not worth using self-leveling mixtures.

The composition of materials for self-leveling floors are very different. Some consist of sand and cement, some include various additives and additives, some are polymer materials. There are mixtures based on epoxy resins, polyurethane and other polymers, and cement and sand are not included in their composition.

Advice! Installation instructions for polymer self-leveling floors with artistic effects are quite complicated for independent execution by untrained installers, so it is better to invite professionals for such work.

When working on the ground, drainage bedding is used: gravel, crushed stone, sand or brick battle.

Conclusion

Today, for the installation of the screed, you can use various floor filling mixtures, which differ in characteristics, cost and scope. We examined the main options, the study of which will help you choose the right material and construction technology.

A screed is an intermediate layer laid between a concrete base and a finished floor covering. The screed determines, in particular, how long the finished floor will last, so it is needed in without fail, regardless of whether parquet, linoleum, laminate, tile or any other coating will be laid on top. How to make a floor screed with your own hands and will be discussed in this article.

What are the screeds

According to the method of manufacture, screeds are distinguished:

1. Wet. As a rule, it is a cement mortar. On the market you can find special dry compositions based on cement or gypsum. They serve to fill and level the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base. If cement or sand is present in the screed, subsequent reinforcement will be required. For dry mixes, this is not necessary. This is a universal and most common type of screed. A sufficient layer thickness is considered to be no more than 10 cm.
2. Dry. It is also called a combined screed. It is produced in the form of large sheets having a thickness of 15-30 mm. If there are large level differences, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. First, a wet floor screed must be poured, and a dry one is already placed on top of it.

Based on the number of layers, there are such types of screeds:

1. single layer. It is poured once to a given thickness.
2. multilayer. It implies the filling of the rough and finishing layers. For example, in order to obtain maximum rigidity at the joints of slabs with overlapping, a rough concrete screed is first poured, and if subsequent finishing is required, then a layer of smooth finishing screed is additionally poured. As a rule, the rough layer is made at least 20 mm thick, and the finishing layer is 3-20 mm thick.

According to the method of coupling, the screed can be:

1. solid. Adhesion occurs with the main coating.
2. floating. Clutch is not provided. It is used if it is necessary to lay a layer of moisture-proof film, as well as heat and sound insulation. The thickness is usually at least 35 mm.

Manufacturing materials

To understand how to make a floor screed, you need to understand the materials used to make it. Most often, the basis of such mixtures is cement and gypsum. To improve the binding qualities, sand, polymers and other mineral additives are added to the solution. The amount of water is added based on the desired consistency.

Consider the main materials in more detail:

1. Cement. Before making a floor screed with your own hands from cement mortar, you will need to purchase, of course, cement and sand. As a rule, the mixing ratio is 1:3. The result is a moisture-resistant layer that can be used under any floor covering. AT construction stores you can buy sand concrete. However, this material has one drawback - it quickly shrinks. This suggests that it is necessary to control the uniformity and thickness of the protective layer. It often must exceed 30 mm, otherwise, the screed will simply crack (read also: ""). In order for the properties of the screed, in particular, the uniformity of stress, due to which it will not crack, to be maintained at the proper level, it must be reinforced from the inside, you can also add a proportion of propylene fibers (more details: ""). The drying time of the screed is quite long. If a laminate or parquet, which are afraid of moisture, is laid on top, then this time can stretch up to 20 days, and even more.
2. Gypsum. A fairly common material, because how to quickly make a screed in this case is not difficult. Such a screed does not shrink, and the layer can be very thin. In this case, the final solidification occurs in 24-48 hours. Gypsum screed is ideal for pouring on wooden base, but only if the room does not have high humidity otherwise the gypsum will soften and look like dough. It is possible to use such a screed in rooms with low humidity, but only if polymeric materials are present in its composition.
3. Concrete. Concrete screed in its structure and manufacturing principle is very similar to that of cement. FROM the main difference that such a mixture consists of cellular concrete. Concrete screeds are divided into: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
4. Self leveling compound. It is distributed as a ready-made material that can be used for all kinds of floor coverings. A thin layer of such a mixture reaches 2-7 mm, and a thick one - 5-30 mm. If the height differences at the base are very large, then you will need to first lay a rough screed.
5. Dry screed. Such material resembles drywall. It is made in the form of durable building boards with water-repellent properties. Installation is carried out on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. During laying, a small overlap should be provided to overlap the joints. The advantage of such a screed is that you do not need to wait until it hardens. The finished floor covering can be laid already 24 hours after laying. Such a screed is popular, for the most part, in apartments.

List of necessary tools for installation

Before you independently make a floor screed, you will need to stock up on such tools:

• concrete mixer;
• water level;
• building ordinary level;
• Master OK;
• electric drill, as well as a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• stationery knife;
• bucket;
• pencil or marker;
• ruler and tape measure.

Sequence of work

Stage 1. Level tapping

For those who do not know how to make a floor screed yourself, we note that, as a rule, this process begins with a level beating (in more detail: ""). To determine the zero level, the best way is to use the water level. Marks will need to be made in all rooms at a height of 1.2-1.5 m from the base. The first mark can be set in any convenient location. The remaining marks are set based on the readings of the water level along the horizon, while the floor level is not taken into account.

After that, all points are connected, thus, the zero level is determined. During all construction works it will need to be oriented as a horizontal plane. Try to check again the accuracy of the zero level determination.

In some cases, expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. This will require making an additional mark a little higher in order to fill it with the selected material, which will play the role of a pillow.

Stage 2. Determination of height difference

This stage is needed in order to better understand how to make a cement floor screed in any room, and at the same time correctly calculate the required amount of mortar.

In all rooms, we determine the height from the marked level to the base and make appropriate records of measurements at the measurement points. It is better when there are more such points, then the measurements will be more accurate. The points with the highest value will have the lowest floor level value, and vice versa. The difference between these values ​​determines the height difference of the old foundation.

As an example, consider the following values:

max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

It turns out that the height difference reaches 5 cm.

Cement strainer must have a thickness of more than 30 mm, taking into account the addition of a plasticizer. Otherwise, it will crack. A plasticizer can happen, for example, liquid soap. The optimal thickness for a self-levelling compound is determined by the manufacturer's specifications on the packaging.

In the case of installing a multi-level screed, a calculation of the difference in heights will be required. Do not leave differences at the joints of the coatings. Each level is planned separately, as the thickness of the floor coverings in this case will be different. This difference must be compensated by different screed thicknesses.

For example, we plan to lay tiles in the kitchen, and parquet in the room. To equalize the finishing base, it will be necessary to create a thicker screed under the parquet, in several layers (more details: ""). Next, add up the height of all layers, plus the parquet, and subtract the sum of the layers along with the tiles. As a result, we get a difference. It is better to add an additional 2 mm in a tiled room if the layer under the parquet comes out a little higher.

Stage 3. Foundation preparation

On the this stage the base must be cleaned, for example with an industrial vacuum cleaner. If there is none, then you can limit yourself to simple sweeping, after which everything should be thoroughly washed with a cleaning agent. For better dust removal, you can use a primer. The ideal option there will be surface treatment using the Betonokontakt tool, which will improve the adhesion of the screed to the treated surface.

Partitions and walls will need to be equipped with temporary moisture insulation. A roofing material is suitable, the upper part of the strip of which should exceed the level of the screed by 10-15 cm.

After that, it is worth inspecting the floor again. You need to make sure that there are no cracks, otherwise they need to be covered with a non-shrinking mortar. If the floors have been ironed before or there is a “milk from cement” coating, then such a film must be removed to ensure better adhesion to the base.

Stage 4. Installation of beacons

Lighthouses are set to reach flat surface screeds. They are, as a rule, metal profiles fixed on the base. After their installation, a rigid frame is obtained, which will not bend until the screed is poured.

You can fix the profile with the most different ways, for example, install on a cement slide or screw directly to the floor. The gaps between the slats should be such that the rule does not fall between them during the leveling of the cement mortar.

The alignment of the beacons is carried out using the building level, while you should not forget about their parallelism to each other. If the screed is poured at several levels, formwork, for example, from plywood, must be installed at the junction of the drops to prevent the solution from flowing to a lower level.

Stage 5 Mixing the solution and its subsequent filling

It is best to use a concrete mixer to mix the mortar. Do not add too much water to the solution, otherwise the screed will not be strong enough. To give the solution plasticity, additives can be added to the mixture.

The result should be a homogeneous thick mixture. It is desirable to develop it within 1.5-2 hours. One room must be filled in one run.

The solution is unloaded between the beacons, after which it is leveled.

Stage 6 Care of the screed after pouring

Since we have already determined what the floor screed means for the reliability of laying the finish coat, we note that in the process of drying it needs proper care. That is, after pouring, the screed should be watered twice a day for 10 days.

It is better not to neglect this operation, otherwise it will crack. It often takes 28 days for a cement screed to dry completely. Beacons can be removed already 3 days after pouring, and the voids are filled with a portion of the same solution.

Stage 7. Control of the work done

So, we found out the best way to make a floor screed, completed all the work, it remains to check whether everything is done correctly.

At this stage, you need to make a visual inspection of the screed, check its color, evenness and make sure that there are no possible flaws (read: ""). When checking unevenness, the gaps under the 2 meter rail should not exceed 4 mm.

Next, you should check the slope of the base, relative to the level of the horizon. It is advisable to tap wooden block. The sound emitted should be uniform, sonorous and firm. A dull sound indicates the formation of voids under the screed.