How to build a hipped roof first. How to make a hipped hip roof. Typical hip roof design

The classic hipped roof, even today, remains unusual for Russian latitudes and is reminiscent of the overseas way of life. That is why it is most often built in order to give the architecture of a residential building a special effect in terms of style and perception, it is advantageous to distinguish it from monotonous, familiar buildings. In addition, four pitched roof- built with your own hands according to all the rules - in practice it has a large number of advantages, especially for harsh Russian latitudes. Let's take a closer look?

Types of hipped roofs

A hipped roof has slopes that are made in the form of isosceles triangles and their vertices converge at one point. If the hipped roof is square in plan when viewed from above, then it is called a hip roof.

If it doesn’t turn out square, but turns out to be a rectangle, it’s a hip roof. It received such an interesting name thanks to the stingrays, which have the appearance of a gable hip.

Dutch roof: classic four slopes

The Dutch or hip roof is considered a classic option, which is particularly resistant to wind and snow.

Surface standard hip roof forms two trapezoidal slopes on the long sides and the same number of triangular ones on the short sides. Unlike hip roof, this form, according to modern architects, is considered more aesthetic.

The hip roof rafter system involves the installation of four slanted rafters - diagonal support beams that run from the two tops of the slopes to the upper corners of the building.

But the half-hip roof, in turn, comes in two types: when the side slopes cut off only part of the end at the top, or already at the bottom, that is, the half-hip itself can be a triangle or a trapezoid, and is called Danish or half-hip Dutch.

Half-hip Dutch roof: particularly stable

The half-hip Dutch roof is both an option and gable design, and hipped. It differs from the classic version by the presence of truncated hips - triangular end slopes. According to the rules, the length of the hip of a Dutch roof should be 1.5-3 times less than the length of the side trapezoidal slopes.

The advantage of such a roof is that it is possible to install a vertical dormer window, and at the same time there is no sharp projection, like a gable roof, which, in turn, increases the roof’s ability to withstand extreme wind loads.

Half-hip Danish roof: European traditions

But the Danish half-hip roof is a type of purely hip roof. In this case, only the lower part of the end slope is mounted, and a small vertical pediment is left under the ridge.

The advantage of this design is that it allows you to avoid problems with waterproofing. skylights in the roof and provide natural lighting to the attic by installing full vertical glazing, which is especially fashionable now.

Hip roof: ideal proportions

A hip roof is usually installed on buildings that have the same length of walls, which form a square perimeter. In such a hipped roof, all the slopes are shaped like identical isosceles triangles, a roofer’s dream, in a word, and a builder’s nightmare.

The fact is that the construction of a classic hip roof is even more difficult than that of a hip roof, because here the rafters must all converge at one point:

Construction of a roof truss system with four slopes

Here is the simplest example of building a standard hip roof for a small country house:

Stage I. Planning and design

Before making a hipped roof, be sure to think through all its details, down to the smallest detail. Be sure to build even the simplest hip roof structure according to a ready-made drawing. The fact is that the finished gable roof has almost noticeable defects and distortions, but if you make a mistake somewhere in the construction of the same hip or hip roof, then the diagonal rafters simply will not meet at the ridge and it will be extremely difficult to correct this.

And therefore, if you own special programs, create a 3D model of the future roof right in them, and if not, then just prepare detailed drawing and it’s good if a professional helps you with this. All the details of such a roof must be calculated - down to the smallest detail!

By the way, today it is quite fashionable to make not only the roof hipped, but also its individual functional elements:

Stage II. Preparation of structural elements

So, if you have taken a ready-made roof drawing or sketched it yourself and are confident in the future quality, it’s time to prepare the necessary elements of the rafter system. And to do this, first let’s figure out how they are called correctly.

So, the first thing you have to take care of before building a hip roof is Mauerlat. This is a square beam or rectangular section, which you will lay on the top of the walls around the entire perimeter of the house. It will become a support for the rafters, which will transfer the load to it, and it is this board that will evenly distribute the weight of the entire roof onto the walls of the house and the foundation. Perfect option– use a beam with a section of 15 by 10 cm as a mauerlat.

Next you will build rafter legs- this is the main element that will create the roof slope. Standard rafters are made from boards 50 by 150 mm, and diagonal ones - 100 by 150 mm.

You will also need puffs, the main task of which is to prevent the rafter legs from moving to the sides. You will fix the puffs themselves and connect them with the lower ends, and for this, stock up on boards measuring 50 by 150 meters.

But from above, both the diagonal rafter legs and the standard rafters will converge and be secured to each other in skate. To do this, take a beam 150 by 100 mm.

Further, in the center of two opposite sides there must be a cross beam - sill, which serves as a support for the racks, and they, in turn, support the ridge girder. A timber with a cross section of 100 by 100 mm or 100 by 150 mm is suitable for this purpose.

Slopes will become a support for the rafters, which prevents them from moving. You should install them at an angle to the stand; to do this, take the same material as for the bench.

Don't forget also about wind board- this is a horizontal element that connects all the lower ends of the rafters. You will need to nail it to the rafters along the inner perimeter of the roof and in this way emphasize the line of the slope. A 100 by 50 mm board is suitable for this purpose.

But for outside you will need one more board - filly, from the same material. This board received such a strange name from the times when it was carved in the form of horse faces.

But the most unusual and complex element of a hipped roof is truss, which gives rigidity to the entire structure. Its main task is to connect all horizontal and vertical elements. It is also mounted at an angle, and is made of 100 by 100 mm timber:

And finally, if we are talking specifically about a hip roof, then the only element that is present exclusively in hip roofs is narozhniki. They are shortened rafters that rest on a diagonal rafter leg. You can make them from a 50 by 150 mm board.

In life, all these elements look like this:

Also think about insulation, waterproofing film and additional roofing elements:

Stage III. Installation of attic floor

Often grandmothers hanging rafters or pendants that work in tension in a hip roof must be made of steel. To do this, to tighten wooden rafters special wooden purlins are suspended perpendicularly on clamps.

And wooden beams are suspended perpendicular to the purlins, after which beamless lightweight fillings are laid between them. Therefore, if you want to reduce the roof load on hanging rafters or roof truss, you need to choose suspended floor designs.

For steel trusses the suspended ceiling must be made fireproof, using steel beams. Prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs should be laid between such beams, and light insulation should be placed on them. To increase the fire resistance and durability of such load-bearing structures, they must be made of reinforced concrete. Moreover, the most reinforced concrete bearing structures It is better to make it from large-sized factory-made panels so as not to take risks.

Stage IV. Installation of ridge girder

When calculating the ridge run, take into account the following nuances:

1. If the building has permanent longitudinal walls, or at least two rows of internal pillars, then two purlins are made. At the same time, many rafter structures can be composite along their length, and crossbars are used to increase rigidity.
2. If the building does not have internal supports, then it will not be possible to make inclined rafters here. Therefore, special construction trusses are used, to which the attic floor is simply suspended. In this case, the rods, which are located along the upper contour of the trusses, form the upper chord of the construction truss, and along bottom contour- already the lower belt. The truss lattice itself now forms vertical rods and braces - inclined rods that are located between the upper and lower chords. Moreover, such trusses are not necessarily made only of wood; on the contrary, steel reinforced concrete ones are quite popular today. During the construction process, the trusses are installed at a distance of 4-6 meters from each other. The simplest version of such trusses are truss trusses, which consist of rafter legs, a vertical suspension, headstock and tie rods.
3. If the width of the building is large enough, construction trusses or truss supports are used during installation. But then the attic floor cannot be covered with beams that will rest on the walls alone. Such a structure must be suspended on steel clamps to the lower chord of the truss, or to a tie, in order to thus form suspended ceilings.

This photo illustration clearly shows exactly how the rafters need to be attached to the ridge and ridges:

Stage V. Installation of standard and diagonal rafters

So, the diagonal rafter legs rest directly on the ridge, depending on the following conditions:

1. If there is only one ridge girder in the middle of the roof, then the diagonal leg must be placed on the girder console. They are specially produced for this purpose 15 centimeters behind the fake frame, and then the excess is sawed off.
2. If there are two purlins, then you need to install a truss structure of a horizontal beam and a rack on them, and then secure the slanted rafters themselves.
3. If the beam is strong, made of timber, and not of boards, then it makes sense to make a break - a short board at least 5 centimeters thick. And the slanted rafters of the hip roof should be supported on it.

Additionally, for reliability, the slanted rafters are secured with metal wire twisted several times.

On the ribs, the installation of ridge elements must be done in the same sequence as on a regular roof ridge. Those. install the rib element with a closed end, place the ridge elements in the lock and secure them mechanically. But at the intersection of the ribs and the ridge of a hip roof, it is customary to install Y-shaped ridge elements, although starting and ending ridge elements can also be used instead.

But only cut them along the contour when they are secured to the edge, and mechanically secure the joints. Be sure to treat with primer and mineral coating from the standard repair kit. Also, when installing ridge elements, do not forget to leave a gap on the ribs or ridges of a hipped roof to allow air to escape from the under-roof space.

All the same principles must be observed when building a hipped roof of complex shape:

You can do it!

Do-it-yourself hipped roof: device, types, how to make it yourself

Types of hipped roof do-it-yourself installation

Pitched roof structures are very often used in private homes. Their hipped variety is ideal for tall buildings, since the roof looks more compact and neat without a massive pediment. The design of a hipped roof contains many constituent elements. It can be either relatively simple or more complex due to attic and dormer windows. But in the latter case it looks more interesting and varied.

Varieties

A hipped roof, in comparison with its gable counterpart, better withstands wind loads, precipitation and protects the walls of the building well. Its design is more complex, but you can build such a roof yourself for a small house or gazebo. In the photo on the Internet you can see how beautiful and harmonious a 4-pitched roof looks. She decorates like one-story houses, and higher buildings.

Before you make a hipped roof with your own hands, you need to decide on its type. There are the following types of such systems:

1. The hip structure consists of two trapezoidal slopes and two triangular slopes, called hips. The first two slopes join each other at the ridge. During installation, the technique of arranging layered rafters, as in a gable system, and slanted rafter legs from a 4-slope system is used.
2. The half-hip design has the same structure, only the hip slopes are shortened. Below them is a pediment in which large windows can be made to illuminate the attic or attic floor without losing the strength of the roof.
3. You can also build hip roofs with your own hands if you make four slopes in the shape of an isosceles triangle. They converge at one point.
4. The most difficult thing is to independently build a hip roof of a complex configuration with many valleys, gables, abutments and attic windows. In this case, it is better to entrust the construction to specialists, since only they will be able to correctly calculate the structure, carry out its plan, diagram and assemble it on site.

Attention! In addition to the supporting frame of the roof, it is necessary to decide on roofing, waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, because the different designs roofs and slopes require the use of different materials.

Components

Since the structure of a hipped roof is practically no different from a gable system, it consists of the same constituent elements, but with the addition of some additional parts. The 4-pitch roof includes the following parts:

• Mauerlat. This is a wooden beam of square or rectangular cross-section, which is laid along the top of the external load-bearing walls on which the rafters will rest. It absorbs the entire load and distributes it evenly for transmission to the walls. Houses with a hipped roof are made with a Mauerlat with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x100 mm.
• The beds are internal supporting elements that are laid on load-bearing walls inside a house or support. The material and cross-section of the beds are the same as those of the Mauerlat.
• Rafters are divided into sloped and side. The latter of them form a trapezoidal slope, and the oblique ones are needed for hip slopes. A hip roof does not use side rafters. The side rafters are assembled from timber with a cross-section of 5x15 cm, and the diagonal ones - 10x15 cm. The optimal pitch of the rafter system is 800-900 mm, but it can be less or more depending on the chosen roofing covering and the design features of the roof.
• Racks are needed to support the frame of a hipped structure.
• Ridge purlin is a horizontal element that simultaneously connects the rafters and serves as a support for them. The pitched hip roof structure does not have a ridge. It is better to make it from timber with a section of 150x100 (50) mm.
• Tie-rods are a horizontal element that connects paired side rafters, preventing them from moving apart. Material – board with a section of 5x15 cm.
• Spawners are shortened rafters that are attached to the diagonal leg. They are made from boards measuring 150x50 mm.
• Struts are special struts that increase strength and bearing capacity roofs.
• The filly is the elements that form the roof overhang and are attached to the rafters from below. It is made from timber with a section of 120x50 mm.

When arranging a more complex 4-slope roof, the drawing and design diagram may contain others additional elements eg cornices, protective strips, additional lathing and so on. In order to accurately calculate the required amount of material, it is necessary to make a sketch or drawing to scale, and carry out all the necessary calculations on it.

Important: the material of all components of the roof is coniferous wood of at least grade 2 with a moisture content of no more than 15%.

Installation sequence

We will study how to make a hipped roof with our own hands using the example of the simplest hip structure. The step-by-step process for installing the roof components looks like this:

1. For transfer and uniform distribution loads from the roof frame, snow and the roofing itself, Mauerlats are laid on the load-bearing walls. The beams are fixed to the enclosing structures using anchor pins, which are laid at the stage of wall construction. If the house is built from wood, then the role of the mauerlat is performed by the last crown of the log house. The Mauerlat beam must be protected from brick, concrete and stone walls through waterproofing. To do this, it is wrapped in two layers of roofing felt.
2. The beds are laid on the supporting interior walls. They are necessary where racks are provided in the rafter system. If the house does not have internal load-bearing walls or they are located in the wrong place, then reinforced beams must be provided under the racks, which act as floors. As a rule, beams have a cross-section of 20x5 cm, so load-bearing elements enlarge to a section of 20x10 cm.
3. After this, they begin to install the racks on the supporting beams or beams. The racks are leveled or plumb and temporarily fixed using supports made of boards. To securely fix the rack, use metal corners or steel plates. For simple hip system you will need one row of posts centered just below the ridge. The pitch of the racks is no more than 2 m. When arranging a hip roof, the racks must be installed under the diagonal legs at the same distance from the corner of the house.
4. Next, purlins are placed on the installed racks. For a conventional hip system, this run is the strong point. For a hip roof, all purlins form a rectangle with a smaller perimeter than the house itself. All purlins in this design are fastened with metal corners and screws.
5. Now you can begin installing the rafter legs. In this case, the installation of side rafters in a simple hip system is performed in the following sequence:
   • A board (150x25 mm) the width of the rafters is applied to the ridge at the place where the outer post is installed and a template is made. Mark the top cut on it (the place where the rafter leg will rest on the ridge) and cut it out.
   • Next, the template is applied to the ridge and the bottom cut is cut out (the one with which rafter element will rest on the mauerlat beam).
   • After this, the finished template is applied to the ridge at the installation site of the rafters and the need for adjustment for each rafter element is checked.
   • Mark the rafters and cut out a recess according to the template.
   • Now the rafter legs can be installed and secured to the mauerlat and ridge beam. For fixation, metal corners and screws or staples are used.

1. To make diagonal reinforced rafters, you can use two spliced ​​boards of a regular side rafter. The template for diagonal legs is made in the same way. The upper part of these elements rests on the stand, and the lower part rests on the corner part of the mauerlat. That is why cuts need to be made at 45 degrees.
2. Next, frames are installed between the two diagonal rafters. The installation step of these elements is equal to the installation step of the rafters. The upper part of the narozhnik rests on the diagonal leg, and the lower part rests on the mauerlat. The notch on the top of the spigots for half of the elements is made in a mirror image. The lower cut is usually performed locally. After installing the element, an overhang is formed, which is aligned along the stretched cord and trimmed.
3. The constructed rafter system does not guarantee the reliability of the roof. Since the diagonal legs bear the maximum load, it is necessary to install additional racks - spregnels - under them. They must rest on reinforced floor beams.
4. Under the side rafter legs, struts are installed, the lower edge of which rests on the beam or floor beam, and their upper edge should rest against the rafter at an angle of approximately 45°.
5. A do-it-yourself hipped roof can be made with any roofing covering, for example, from ondulin, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, flexible tiles. But it is worth remembering that under soft covering have to do continuous sheathing from moisture-resistant plywood or OSB. If you are planning to do attic floor, then it is necessary to lay insulation between the rafters, and underneath everything with a vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then only the floors are insulated. Waterproofing must be installed under the roofing and a ventilation gap must be created.

Hip-slope roof: device and how to do it yourself

Roofs with complex shapes attract Special attention to the architecture of the building. Hip roofs are popular when constructing country houses. Four slopes located in different planes give the home a respectable appearance. Most often, slopes are performed different shapes: two of them are triangular and act as pediments, two have a trapezoid shape.

Design advantages

Installation of hipped or hip roof except aesthetically pleasing It also has practical advantages:

• in the attic, surrounded by a roof on all sides, a comfortable temperature is maintained;
• the rafter structure is strong and durable;
• high resistance to winds and precipitation;
• the space under the roof can be used for an attic.

Types of hipped roofs

Having a common base, the subtypes of such coatings differ slightly in design:

• – classic version with two triangular hips and two trapezoid-shaped slopes.
• Semi-hip - triangular slopes have a shortened shape, this design is made for attic equipment.
• Tent - has the shape of a pyramid with triangular slopes. Suitable for square building.

Design

The angle of inclination for the slopes is selected based on the manufacturers' recommendations roofing material And natural features. For soft roll roofing An angle of up to 18 degrees is sufficient; for slate, an angle of 15–60 degrees is suitable, and underneath it is worth laying a slope of 30 to 60 degrees.

The amount of precipitation in winter is of great importance; if a significant amount of snow falls, it is better to choose steep slopes on which precipitation is less retained.

When designing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account a lot: the cross-section of the beam, the length of the rafters, the size of the run, the pitch of installing elements. All possible roof loads are clarified at the design stage, these include:

• weight of the selected roofing covering;
• annual precipitation;
• weight of insulation and waterproofing;
• installation of various equipment on the roof (antennas, lights, windows, etc.);

In addition to the inherent loads, the roof of the house must have a safety margin that guarantees the stability of the structure in an unforeseen situation. Timber and boards are used to construct the rafter system. If there is a need to strengthen the elements, the boards are doubled.

Before starting work, all lumber is treated with an antiseptic.

Sequence of work

Installation of the roof begins with securing the load-bearing base - the Mauerlat. This is a beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm, which is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Its horizontal placement is controlled by a level. The beam should not be on the edge of the wall; you need to leave a distance of 5–7 cm. The Mauerlat is fastened to studs embedded in the masonry, which are tightened with nuts. This beam allows you to connect the rafter system and the walls of the house into a common structure.

To install the racks, floor beams or beams are required. These elements are made from beams measuring 100×200 mm or double boards. All supports are installed strictly vertically and attached to the bed metal corner or plate. For a hip roof, the racks are installed in one line, and a ridge purlin is attached to them. When erecting a hip-type roof, the supports are placed diagonally, equal distances are set aside from the corner. As a result, they form a rectangle on which the purlins are laid. Fastening is done with corners.

The side rafters are installed after processing according to the template. Taken as a preparation thin board, is applied to the run and the cut is noted. The second end rests against the Mauerlat and the lower cut is outlined. The required number of rafters is prepared according to the template and installed with the selected fastening pitch, it can range from 60 cm to 1 meter. The connection to the purlin and base occurs with staples or self-tapping screws.

Sloping rafters with a ridge purlin form the angle of inclination of the slopes. These rafters are located diagonally and carry additional load, so double boards are used for them. The cutting of the slanted rafters is carried out according to a template, their length takes into account the overhang of 50 cm. In the upper part, the slanted rafters are connected by a crossbar to give strength. When installing a hip roof, the slanted rafters are connected at the ridge unit using tie-rods. The rafters are installed at an angle of 90 degrees and are certainly connected to the walls using wire clamps.

Short rafters or rafters are attached to the diagonal rafters. They are made of different lengths, but must be parallel to each other. The rafts, together with the ordinary rafters, form the side slopes. For the tent model, installing the extensions and fastening the racks, struts and trusses is also the final stage of construction.

To relieve the load from the diagonal rafters, trusses are installed under them. These are vertical supports that rest on the beds. The side rafters are secured with struts. One of the horses of the board rests on the leg, and the second is cut at 45 degrees and attached to the rafter leg.

Lathing and insulation

Completing the construction of the roof will allow it to be insulated basalt wool or foamed polystyrene. The material is laid between the rafters. The roof will be protected from moisture by a layer of waterproofing. The dimensions of the sheathing depend on the type of roofing; on the hip type, soft tiles look attractive; they require a continuous sheathing.

Watching a video explaining the nuances of installing rafters will help you conduct construction correctly.

Video

See how the rafter system is installed:

In our country you can find buildings of the most different types. This also applies to types of roofing of houses. The hipped roof, as the most common type of upper part of buildings, enjoys well-deserved authority for its relative simplicity of design. Its construction does not require architectural knowledge. Therefore, building such a structure on your own will not take much time, effort, and will not even require serious financial expenses.

Designing a complex structure

Before starting work, you will need a sketch of the future structure. It is more rational to design the roof together with the structure itself, when a roof fastening system is installed in the walls in advance.

Sketch appearance roofs must take into account the local characteristics of neighboring housing construction so that the future creation does not look pretentious. At the same time, it may have its own original design, thereby standing out against the background of similar buildings.

The simplest and cheapest option is a pitched roof with one “working” surface. This option is used for non-permanent, utility rooms and extensions to the main building. For residential or presentable capital real estate, a lean-to building is unacceptable.

The design of such a building is best left in the hands of professionals. construction companies, which will help create not only a beautiful appearance of the building, but also provide high quality and durability of the coating. Experts will help you decide on the covering for such a roof and advise the best manufacturers at reasonable prices, and will also make sure that further installation is simple and quick.

Multi-pitched roofs

The variety of modern buildings is amazing. At the same time, for each type of building today it is designed separate species roofs. They are considered the most practical and have an aesthetic appearance.

Multi-pitched roof has two or more inclined surfaces, which creates an attic with a system for fastening such a roof. It is worth noting that attic space in this case, it can be advantageously used for useful living space in the home.

There are a lot of multi-pitched roof designs; their choice depends on the desires and financial capabilities of its future owner. The most common are hipped roofs. They are always elegant, reliable and easy to repair.

Tent, hip and Danish

It is not surprising that these particular home coatings have taken pride of place as leaders in our country. They not only look harmonious, but also have a long service life. A renovation work they can be carried out either on your own or using the services of qualified specialists and professional construction companies.

The main types of this type of structure:

1. Tent.
2. Hip.
3. Half-hip (Dutch or Danish).

A feature of the hip roof is one upper corner above the center of the building. It is formed by the convergence of the inclined surfaces of the roof into it.

Hip roofs have two forms of inclined surfaces:

• trapezoidal;
• triangular.

The triangular surface is called a "hip". In this case, the trapezoidal surfaces connecting with each other from above form a horizontal joint in the form of a line called a “ridge”. If the hip has a broken surface, for example, for vertical glazing (Danish version), or the trapezoidal sides of the roof have bevels (Dutch version), then these types of roofing are called half-hip.

The half-hip roof is a wonderful finishing touch decoration the entire building.

Installation features

A hip roof, like other types of roofs, is mounted on a wooden square or rectangle made of beams. It's called Mauerlat. The Mauerlat is rigidly attached to the top of the walls and fixed to them in such a way as to prevent it from moving or being torn off along with the roof under the influence of winds.

The convergence of inclined surfaces on a hipped roof is ensured by a vertical beam, a stand, the installation of which can form the structure of a mauerlat. For light buildings such as gazebos vertical beam sometimes missing.

Convergence of trapezoids at a hip roof fixed on a ridge beam. This is the topmost part of the roof (not counting chimney). Diagonal rafters connect the corners of the mauerlat to the two edges of the ridge. The joints of the triangular and trapezoidal sides of the roof are fixed to them.

The longest vertically inclined beams on which soft and hard roofing is laid are called hip and trapezoidal rafters. In this case, the latter are divided into basic and intermediate. The main ones fix both edges of the ridge, the intermediate ones are located between them. Rafters of shorter length are called shortened or “spring” rafters. The first are mounted on the edges of trapezoidal slopes, the second - on the hip.

The Mauerlat, all types of rafters, and the ridge are fixed together using braces, tie-rods, and struts, which are short beams. Sometimes “kerchiefs” are used, grooves cut from wide boards. They are triangles or trapezoids in shape and are used as additional fixation to inclined beams.

All specified parts of the roof structure are fastened with nails no less than 200 mm long and staples corresponding to this size. The thickness of the side and supporting beams has dimensions in diameter of 150 by 200 mm. For the rest, it is enough to have a diameter of 50×100 mm and 100×150 mm. The boards that carry the roof measure 20x100 mm in diameter. The distance between the rafters under the slopes is in most cases 200 mm.

It is imperative to provide eaves overhangs for drainage - continuing parts of the inclined surfaces of the roof that protrude beyond the dimensions of the building itself.

Hip house surface design

A hipped hip roof can have glazing with or without a hip. The triangular glazing is located directly below the edges of the ridge and provides satisfactory visibility into the attic during daylight conditions. In addition, mounted vents allow you to periodically ventilate the attic. Glazing the attic allows it to be designed as an attic.

If you choose a Dutch or Danish half-hip roof, then the length of the small part of the hip should be 2.5-3 times less than the rest of the inclined surface.

With reference to the end distribution of the wind rose relative to the roof, it is advisable to build a Dutch type of half-hip. Then the window is mounted into a solid wall, and the hip upper slope of the roof absorbs end wind loads better than with a built-in Danish window.

Do-it-yourself roof installation

A do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task. The uniqueness of this type of structure lies in the fact that everything construction works You can easily do it yourself. However, experts recommend at least consulting with specialists before starting work.

To begin work, the following conditions are required:

• spacious construction site with a place of rest;
• an area for lifting building materials to the dome construction sites;
• manual lifting mechanisms;
• no sources of open fire on the leeward side.

After the sketch is ready, it is advisable to carry out a test fitting in place of the Mauerlat and the rack with the sprengel, rafters and struts. This will make it possible to assess the actual complexity of the work and supplement the installation sites in advance with auxiliary means to ensure safety precautions.

Process of creation

The Mauerlat is installed first. Usually its fixation to the walls of the building is done on anchor bolts or on a pre-prepared reinforced belt with studs, onto which the Mauerlat is mounted. Waterproofing material is laid under it.

To ensure eaves overhangs, tie-downs are mounted on the Mauerlat. They can have a solid length and subsequently form the base of the floor, logs.

At the same time, the production of the sprendel truss is underway. Its fixation should be carried out using mounted ties. The truss and racks are fixed with beams-struts. The vertical installation of the racks is checked with a plumb line and a level device.

A hipped roof will require further fastening of the ridge to both posts. The ridge is strengthened with braces and gussets. For a hipped hipped structure, you will need a gusset around the perimeter of the post.

After this, use a twine from the installed top to the edge of the tightening to check the required bevel angle of the ridge or post with a gusset; if necessary, it is adjusted manually. Further laying of beams begins with diagonal rafters. Seats for tightening are cut out in them and the corners are beveled for the ridge.

Basic and hip rafters mounted with maximum precision, ensuring that they form a single slope plane with the side rafters. After a visual inspection, the remaining rafters and frames are installed. Ensuring the strength of the Dutch or Danish hip is achieved by inclined supports, slope beams and gussets.

Upon completion of laying all the beams, the surface upholstery boards are installed. If provided interior decoration, then it is produced first. A vapor barrier layer is laid on such a backing, then insulation, and waterproofing on top of it. And only after this the fixing horizontal boards are fastened. A soft roof or metal tile is laid on the resulting grid.

Drain on roofs

The final stage of roof installation is equipping it drainage system. Here, additional finishing of the entire structure is possible due to parts of the slopes or tie beams protruding beyond the dimensions of the building.

Drainage gutters are fastened locally, taking into account their inclination to the drainage vertical pipes. It is worth noting that such structures are extremely important for houses of any type. Thus, spillways not only ensure dryness of the foundation of the house, but also allow you to avoid the formation of ice and freezing in the winter season.

By using easy installation drains can not only protect your home from dampness, but also significantly increase its service life.

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The hipped (hip) roof is considered one of the most complex structures. Like any other, it has its advantages and disadvantages. To make an informed decision, you need to familiarize yourself with the real performance characteristics hipped roof.

Flaws

As you can see, the advantages of a hipped roof are questionable, but the disadvantages are significant.

Practical advice. Professional builders recommend choosing hip roofs only in exceptional cases, when other options for various reasons unacceptable.

Types of hipped roofs

Each country has its own building traditions and style preferences. What types of hip roofs are used by architects?

Table. Types of hipped roofs.

There are no universal recommendations for choosing the type of hipped roof; each developer must make a decision independently or after consultation with architects. But you should always remember that there are other, cheaper and good options rafter systems.

Step-by-step instructions for building a hipped roof

As an example, let’s look at the simplest of the listed types of hip roofs – the classic one. But even this simple design A hip roof is much more complex than any gable roof.

Important. You can start building a hip roof only after the professionals have made all the calculations. The best option is to order a house project from the relevant organizations. This will cost much less than restoring the structure after its destruction.

A roof made of four slopes - what is it good for? The numerous operational advantages of this type certainly outweigh the disadvantages. Is the rafter system of a hipped roof as simple as many construction beginners think? You will definitely find out soon! We will describe important nuances and features of the stages of erecting a hip roof in this article.

What do you need to know about hip truss systems?

There are two options for hip roofs: hip and hip. The first type has the shape of a rectangular envelope, consisting of two main trapezoidal slopes and a ridge, and two pediment (side) slopes - triangles:

A hip roof is four identical isosceles triangles connected at one top point (reminiscent of a tent):

Both options provide for the installation of both layered and hanging rafters, which are installed using standard technologies.

How to choose the type of rafter system for a 4-pitched roof?

In the absence of a central roof support, the choice is made in favor of a hanging rafter system. If you can find upper and lower supports for each rafter, then you should choose a layered structure. This option is simpler and more accessible for non-professional craftsmen. You just need to remember two main conditions: when rigidly fastening the bottom and top of the stops, a reinforced Mauerlat is needed, since the thrust is transferred to it; with a hinged fastening or a semi-rigid connection (for example, the top is hinged and the bottom is rigid or vice versa), the Mauerlat does not need to be reinforced:

Selecting one of the types hipped roof must be determined by the shape of the house itself. For square houses, hip rafters are erected, for rectangular ones - hip rafters. Also, you can find complex multi-pitched roofs of a combined type, which contain both hip and hip elements.

Both hip and tent structures retain the main functions of a gable roof (for example, the possibility of arranging an attic) and look very aesthetically pleasing:

Why is a hipped roof more popular than a gable roof?

“Why the extra headache and complexity?” you ask: “After all, you can build a simple gable roof much faster and cheaper.” Here the masters emphasize some important points in favor of choosing exactly four slopes for the roof:

1. High wind resistance. The hipped roof has no gables; all its planes are inclined towards the ridge. This design minimizes the impact strong wind and reduces possible destructive consequences to “0”.
2. The most successful load distribution. Multi-pitched roof can withstand maximum amount precipitation, since the gentle slopes take part of the main load. Therefore, sagging, deformation and destruction of the rafter system, in this case, have a minimal probability.
3. Availability of choice of any method of roof insulation. Straight gables require a special approach when choosing the type of roof insulation, since they are located vertically and are subject to wind blowing. The gentle slopes of the hip and tent systems allow you to evenly insulate the roof with any available material.

In addition to the listed “advantages”, a roof with four slopes perfectly conserves heat, can be covered with any roofing material and always has a neat appearance.

Construction of a four-slope rafter system

Rafter hipped design consists of the following elements: mauerlat, ridge beam, central and hip rafters, slanted legs, as well as beds, racks, crossbars, struts and other reinforcing parts. Let's look at the most basic elements.

I. Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the most important detail structure, since the entire rafter system rests on it. It is a powerful wooden beam 100x200, 100x250, 100x100, 150x250, 200x200 cm. The mauerlat is made from solid quality wood, mainly coniferous species. The rafter system of a hip roof, like any multi-pitched roof, requires thorough fastening of the base beam. The procedure for installing the Mauerlat in this case: the formation of a monolithic foundation at the end of the load-bearing walls with the installation of spiers; laying waterproofing; processing and installation of Mauerlat around the perimeter of the entire house; reinforced with anchors and other fastenings for maximum reliability of the base.

The Mauerlat can be laid on the edge of the wall, or in a pocket provided for laying bricks with inside load-bearing walls.

II. Sloping legs

Sloping legs are the four corner rafters that rest on the edges of the ridge and the corners of the mauerlat. They are the longest among all the rafter legs of the system, therefore they must have a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm for maximum rigidity.

III. Ridge beam

Ridge purlin is a horizontal beam that connects all the rafters, the top of the rafter system. The beam must be strengthened with racks and struts. The ridge must be positioned strictly parallel to the plane of the attic floor and perpendicular to the racks.

IV. Rafters

Rafters for a hipped roof are divided into: central (attached to the mauerlat and ridge); main hip ones (attached to the ridge axis and Mauerlat); intermediate and shortened (installed on sloping legs and Mauerlat, connecting the corners of the slopes).

V. Strengthening elements

Additional reinforcing elements include ridge beam posts, crossbars or floor beams, rafter struts, wind beams, etc.

DIY rafter system for a hipped roof

Let's consider step by step process construction truss structure. For clarity, we have chosen the most popular option - hip roofing. The hip roof rafter system, a diagram of which step by step, is presented to your attention below:

Step I: Create a Project

To depict your version of a hip roof in a drawing, you need to calculate the height, length, slopes of the slopes and roof area. This is necessary for clear and high-quality implementation of the project and selection of the required quantity of consumables:

Calculations should begin by choosing the angle of the roof slopes. The optimal slope is considered to be an angle of 20-450. The amount of slope must correspond climatic features region. So, in particularly windy areas, the slope should be kept to a minimum, and for areas where there is frequent and heavy rainfall, the steepest slope angle is necessary. In addition to the weather environment, you also need to consider the roofing material you plan to use. For a soft roof the degree of inclination should be less, for a hard roof it should be greater.

And one more small one, but important nuance on this issue, it is better to make the slope angle the same for all four slopes. So the load will be distributed evenly, and the structure will be as stable as possible, and the aesthetic appeal will remain “at its best.”

Now, knowing the angle of inclination and the width of the house, we can use simple mathematics to calculate the height of the ridge, the length of the rafter legs, racks and other details of the rafter system. When calculating the length of the rafters, do not forget to take into account the eaves overhang (as a rule, its length is 40-50 cm).

The roof area for purchasing the required amount of roofing material is calculated as the sum of the areas of all slopes of the structure.

How to draw a roof drawing correctly?

• We select the scale of the drawing and transfer the dimensions of the house in scale onto a sheet of paper;
• Next, we transfer the selected dimensions of our roof onto the diagram: the height of the ridge, its length, the number and size of rafter legs, struts, racks and all the details, in accordance with the calculations made earlier;
• Now you can count everything necessary materials and start searching for them.

Step II: Preparing for work

For construction roof frame you will need standard tools and equipment: drills, screwdrivers, jigsaws, hammers, chisels, etc. We already know the required amount of materials for the rafter system, so we can purchase them. The lumber for the frame must be solid, have no cracks, wormholes, have a light shade, without gray or yellow patina, and smell like fresh wood. Wet wood should not be laid on the roof immediately; it must be dried, treated with an antiseptic solution and dried again. Wood humidity should not exceed 20%.

Step III: Mounting the Mauerlat

Mauerlat is the basic part of the entire rafter system. It transfers thrust loads to the load-bearing walls of the house. Installing a Mauerlat for a hipped roof is no different from similar structures with two or one slope. This process is described in as much detail as possible in our previous articles.

The base beam, the parameters of which are described above, is placed on an armored belt and high-quality waterproofing. If it is necessary to connect the Mauerlat, then the bars are cut into half the section and overlapped using strong fasteners.

Step IV: Laying the floor beams or beams

If there are load-bearing walls inside the house, then it is necessary to install beams on their ends - the basis for support posts roofing system. If there are no more load-bearing floors in the house, then the attic floor is covered reinforced beams, on which roof supports are subsequently installed, and then the attic floor pie is laid.

Beams must have a cross-section of at least 100x200 mm. The step between them is 60 cm. You can slightly adjust this figure, depending on the characteristics of your home. The distance between the outer beams and the mauerlat should not be less than 90 cm. This distance is used for installing the half-beams of the eaves overhang (extension). The stems are attached to the two outer beams using strong anchors and reinforced metal corners.

Step V: Installation of support posts, purlins and ridge

Racks are an important part for supporting the structure; they redistribute the weight of the rafter system onto the beams or floor beams. The racks are installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the bed. IN hipped systems the supports are installed under the ridge beam (hip roof) or under the corner rafters (hip roof):

The racks must be securely attached to the base using metal plates and reinforced corners. The purlins are installed as additional support for the racks. In a hip roof, the purlins are rectangular in shape, while for the hips they are ordinary ridge purlins.

After we have made sure that the supports are installed correctly (using a meter and a level), we can attach the upper ridge beam. It is mounted on vertical posts and reinforced with reliable metal fasteners (plates, corners, anchors and screws). Now let's take on the corner extensions:

Step VI: Installation of rafters

First, you need to install the side rafters, which rest on the ridge beam and the Mauerlat (or are secured with an extension). To do this, you need to make a template rafter with the appropriate cuts. We apply the rafter leg to the ridge, mark the place of the cut with a pencil, then mark the place of the cut of the rafters for joining with the Mauerlat and make cuts. Attach the rafter to the supports again to make sure that the connection is correct and to correct any imperfections. Now this sample can be used to make all the side rafters. Installation of the rafter legs of the main slopes is carried out according to the general rules described in the design of a gable rafter system (see article and video).

Diagonal (corner) rafters are installed next. Their upper edge is installed on the stand and joins the edge of the ridge beam. Before this, measurements are taken and the corresponding cuts of the rafter legs are made. The lower end of the diagonals is fixed in the corners of the Mauerlat:

Since diagonal rafters are longer than all other legs, they require additional support. This function is performed by trusses - support beams that are installed under each diagonal leg, in its lower quarter (this is where the greatest load occurs). Sprengel, like ridge posts, are installed on supporting corner beams located in the plane of the floor beams.

Between the corner ribs the space is filled with auxiliary rafter legs - sprigs. Bottom part they rest on the mauerlat, and the upper one rests on the diagonal rafter leg. The step between the frames should be equal to the step between the side rafters (50-150 cm).

Step VII: Sheathing

It remains to complete the final stage of forming the roofing skeleton - installing the sheathing. These are boards or bars 50x50 mm, which are attached to the rafters parallel to the ridge girder and the mauerlat. The pitch of the sheathing boards is 50-60 cm. This is quite enough for installation roofing pie. When a soft roof is provided, the sheathing is laid in 2 layers (counter-lattice and sheathing).

Finally, a few videos:

So, we described the installation of the rafter system of a hipped roof, its basic principles, and even went a little deeper into some of the nuances. Hip and tent structures are, although not the simplest, but quite feasible options for every novice craftsman. Especially if he has good assistants. We wish you success in your work!