Suspended ceilings from plasterboard in two levels. Two-level plasterboard ceilings: photos, videos and step-by-step installation guide. We lower the frame to the desired length

Not always just a perfectly flat ceiling surface fits into the concept of the room. Therefore, the design idea has no limits in creating fancy patterns, curls and smooth waves above the head. At the same time, the base acquires a “number of storeys”, and with it a volume and a unique look. It is possible to mount a structure of any configuration and stretch fabrics. But this technology is complex and inaccessible to conventional home master. While drywall allows you to take into account all the wishes of the household. The article will discuss how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

Validity of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

The most common option is a two-level ceiling. Its creation is the least expensive, both in terms of material and in terms of the amount of time that will have to be spent on its construction. In addition, the number of levels equal to two is the most acceptable solution for most apartments in high-rise buildings. residential buildings. The height of the ceilings in their rooms is already small enough to lower it even lower and make it heavier by creating additional volumetric elements. And the loss in height will be significant - at least 10 centimeters.

Two level ceilings drywall photo

And even in the case of such a limitation in the number of storeys, in practice one has to go to little tricks: use the surface of an existing ceiling as the first level. In private homes, the height of the ceilings is usually much higher, so their happy owners are less limited in their actions.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Preparatory stage

• At the preparation stage, it is worth deciding on the project. Plasterboard sheets (GVL) are attached to a profile that can be bent at different angles, not limited to straight lines. Therefore sketch ceiling structure might actually be the most daring.
• The easiest way is to edging along the perimeter of the ceiling from simple straight lines or select only the lighting zone in the center of the surface. This is convenient even from the standpoint of calculating the required amount of material. And for those who have not previously had experience with GVL, it is much easier to start by creating simple shapes. But regardless of the complexity, without the simplest drawing of the future ceiling, you should not move on. If there is an opportunity or independent experience in modeling on a computer, then it is much better to call for help high tech. Then you can see your idea in conditions close to reality, complicate it or, conversely, abandon any detail.
• When purchasing plasterboard sheets for the ceiling, be sure to consider its location. If you can buy ordinary GVL in the hall or bedroom, then for the kitchen you should opt for a moisture-resistant version of the material. As for the frame, you can also build it from wooden bars. There will be no problems with material of various lengths and thicknesses, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with metal profile. After the sketch is drawn up, and the material, along with the due stock, is calculated and purchased, it's time to look up.
• Since the existing base will be considered the upper tier, it must be carefully examined for existing flaws. Spot lighting, which is used in most cases, will clearly highlight all the bumps and errors. Therefore, it is worth arming yourself with a spatula and leveling the future tier No. 1.

Two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting

• Armed with a sketch, you need to outline where on the ceiling the outlets for the lamps will be located in the future. Then it will become clear how and where to lay the wiring. At this stage, it is better to invite a specialist if there is even the slightest doubt. own forces. This is not only about safety considerations - not working or burning lamps after one can spoil the whole impression of the design, no matter how wonderful it turns out in the end.
• In addition to the location of lighting points, there are also communications such as air conditioning or an extractor hood, if we are talking about the ceiling in the kitchen. About their location and possible combination with the ceiling design, too, should not be forgotten.

Construction of two-level plasterboard ceilings

• There are two assembly methods two-level ceiling from drywall. For some masters it is quite easy to work directly "on the ceiling". That is, as expected, install all the guides on the base, and then sheathe the GVL frame. And it is easier for someone to do the opposite: to completely assemble the complex base on the floor, fastening the guides together and folding the desired figure out of them. And only then reunite the second tier with the first.
• It is not possible to give an unambiguous assessment of the correctness of any of these two options. These are the personal preferences of the master and the nuances of each individual design. The bulky second tier, which is larger than the base, seems appropriate to assemble immediately on the ceiling, because then it will need to be lifted and held in some way until fasteners are made. This is inconvenient, will require a large number of assistants, and there is also a significant risk of bending the entire frame.
• And small curly structures, it may be much more convenient to cook, being in a stable position on the floor, and not on a stepladder.

Frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

• As the first stage, the layout of the future structure in full scale must be transferred to the ceiling.
• A guide profile is fixed along the marked lines. It is marked PNP, has dimensions of 27 × 28, and is 3 meters long. It is used exclusively to create a frame suspended ceilings or wall cladding. Such a profile is fixed at the height of the expected ceiling level, and there are already holes for hardware in its wall, which facilitate this process. In places where it is required to create a bend, the profile wall is cut and a smooth wave is formed. The steeper the radius of the conceived figure, the smaller the notch pitch. If you plan to make a sufficiently voluminous semicircle on the ceiling, then it is better to make it up from several small segments, bending each one individually, so it is much more convenient to work than bending a three-meter profile at once. To make cuts, you can use scissors for metal or a small light grinder (you will have to hold it with one hand).

• Now you need to fix the direct suspensions. They are sold with the marking PP 60×27. They are mounted with a gap of 60 cm. It is recommended to use anchor dowels as fastening hardware. They fit more tightly into the base and provide good retention for any heavy structure.
• To add a stiffener structure, you need to cut the required number of blanks that are suitable in length. For straight sections, their fastening step of 60 cm will be quite sufficient; on curved complex sections of the structure, it is reduced to 20-30 centimeters. When installing transverse guides, which will later serve to fix the GVL, do not forget about the presence of spotlights. Profile attachment points and exit points lighting fixtures must not intersect.
• The outlines mounted on the ceiling should be repeated from the same profile and fixed on hangers. You can assemble this part of the structure on the floor, and then simply “hoist” it into place.

• The longitudinal and transverse structural elements at the intersections are additionally fastened with special "crabs". Their paws are bent along the edges of the profile and fixed with small metal screws. So it turns out reliable connection capable of withstanding heavy loads.

Plasterboard sheathing

This stage is not very difficult, but it will require measurement accuracy and some preparation, especially if the design is not straight, but with curved elements. With simple forms everything is simple.

• A chamfer applied at the factory is cut off from the drywall sheet - it is usually a little thinner than the main part of the material.
• Pieces of the required sizes are marked and cut on the sheet in order to close the structure and proceed directly to the cladding. The elements are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, trying to completely drown their hats in the material.

• In order to bring out the fixtures, holes of the desired diameter are selected in the GVL. This can be done with a drill and a special nozzle - crowns, you can use a jigsaw and cut out the necessary figure along the drawn contour; in the absence of a power tool, you can always use hand saw. There are special hacksaws for drywall sheets. They differ in their design - the tip of the canvas is pointed, and it itself is quite dense and rigid.

If you want to bend a strip of drywall, you can choose one of two methods for this.

The first involves the use of liquid. It is used when you need to make a small wave.

• The required strip is cut to size, laid on flat surface, one of the sides is moistened with water and left for a while (about an hour). Despite the apparent simplicity, there are several nuances.
• Before moistening the material, the side to be wetted is passed with a spiked roller. The grooves created with it will contribute better penetration water. No need to try to soak the sheet in one go. There is a risk of damaging the paper layer without reaching the gypsum "filling". To moisten, you can use a roller or a spray bottle. The procedure is repeated several times. After the allotted time, the GVL element will soften, and it will not be difficult to bend it in the right direction. First, the sheet is fixed along one of the edges, then it is gently bent further and simultaneously fixed. The recommended fastening step is 10 or 15 cm so that the bend fits snugly and does not bulge. After installation, the room should be well ventilated, and let excess moisture evaporate.

The second method is more often used to create arched doorways.. But for bends along a large radius, it is better to use it.

• So, on a measured piece of GVL, you need to make a series of notches. They are located in increments of 3-5 cm. It depends on the planned curvature of the structure. It is more convenient to place a sheet of material on a horizontal plane or lean against a wall with a slight slope. construction knife with sharp blade it is necessary to apply parallel cuts along the ruler (or using the building level). The remaining second layer of paper is strong enough to keep the drywall from breaking all the way.
• Then the sheet should be broken at the cut points and fixed on the profile. If the element is long, then it must be broken gradually, as it is fastened. Alternatively, a long curved line can be divided into several segments, and the installation can be carried out in stages.
• This method of bending drywall involves the fairly frequent use of hardware. You need to screw them in every 5 cm (corresponding to the step of the cuts). This will ensure the most snug fit sheet to the main structure.

Drywall cutting tricks

• In order to quickly and evenly cut the desired piece of drywall sheet, a simple construction knife is enough.
• Sheets large sizes(more than a meter wide) it is more convenient to cut when they are leaning against a wall with a slight slope. It is better to cut canvases up to 0.6 meters wide by laying them on a flat surface of the floor or table.
• All cuts are made on the front side of the material.
• If you want to sheathe plasterboard sheets large area ceiling, then it is better to purchase plates of 3.6 m in size. For small work, it is better to buy material in terms of sheets of 2.5 m. This will turn out to be much more convenient and economical. Waste will remain minimal.
• Careful planning when cutting will also help minimize drywall costs. The rule, where it is advised to measure seven times, and only then cut, in this case works 100%.

Putty

• At the joints, drywall sheets are puttied using sickle (reinforcing mesh). As a rule, it is enough to pass with a spatula only these places and the entry points of the screws. The entire surface is puttied extremely rarely, for example, before application as finish coat liquid wallpaper.

• After all the joints and cavities from the screws have been leveled with the general level of the material, the puttied places are treated with fine-grained sandpaper. Now the entire surface is treated with a primer layer, and it is considered fully prepared for the final pasting with any kind of wallpaper or for painting.

Two-level plasterboard ceilings video

This completes the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

A two-level plasterboard false ceiling will look original in the hall, living room, bedroom. It will perfectly fit into classic and modern design. And by installing it with your own hands, you can turn your idea of ​​\u200b\u200bdecorating a room into reality. Our tips will help you.

Ways to install two-tier plasterboard ceilings

The frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is equipped with several methods:

• Second level installation. The best option for even coverage. In this case, the lighting elements are fixed in the frame.
• Series installation. First, the first tier is mounted, to which the second is attached. The method is suitable for those projects in which the second level occupies a small area, since its weight completely supports the first tier.
• Reverse fixation. In this case, it is necessary to initially make a frame of the second level and install the first one between its profiles. This method is considered the most difficult.

Design features of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

In the process, the following nuances must be taken into account:

1. Room height. A two-level ceiling takes almost 10 cm of ceiling height. To save space, you can level the coating and install a second tier on it.
2. Lighting. It is necessary to think over the location of the fixtures at the design stage. Please note that with the help of well-chosen and placed lighting fixtures, you can zone a room or focus on necessary elements decor.
3. Humidity level. Mounting conventional drywall not carried out in rooms with high humidity. For this, special moisture-resistant sheets are produced. They are distinguished by a greenish tint of cardboard. For installation in a kitchen where the humidity is not much higher, ordinary sheets are suitable, but they should be treated with several primer layers.

Selection of materials and tools for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Drywall with a thickness of 8-9.5 mm is suitable for mounting ceilings. Sheets with a thickness of 1.2 cm are not recommended to be installed on the ceiling due to the large weight and irrational use of the height of the walls. The second tier is traditionally made of arched GKL, the thickness of which is 6 mm. Please note that buying drywall back to back is not recommended. Buy with a margin of 3-5%.

Responsibly, it is necessary to approach the selection of other structural elements (profiles and fasteners). Using frame parts Low quality will significantly reduce the service life of the structure and the reliability of fixation. For installation, you will need UD and CD profiles, CD connectors, "crabs", angular and two-level (try to use the latter as rarely as possible), straight and spring suspensions.

With regard to fasteners, during installation work dowel screws, anchor wedges, metal screws with press washers (“fleas” 9.5 * 3.5 mm) and self-tapping screws for fixing the plasterboard are used. Fasteners should be with a margin.

When calculating, consider the following indicators:

• The frame is fixed to the base ceiling in increments of 60 cm.
• Drywall sheets are attached in 25 cm increments.
• To install one "crab" you will need 8 screws.
• Fixation of one suspension unit is carried out by six self-tapping screws.

As for the tools, in addition to a puncher and a screwdriver, you will need a knife for cutting GKL, a hydraulic level, a profile cutter and a paint cord.

Preparatory work before installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

It is also necessary to bring the sheets into the room in advance and leave them in a horizontal position for several days to adapt to the temperature and humidity conditions. Before starting work, it is recommended to de-energize the room. Prepare protective equipment in advance: goggles, gloves and a respirator.

Do-it-yourself two-level plasterboard ceiling

This method consists in the phased installation of the first and second levels of the structure. Thus, it is possible to implement a project with a small second tier, since it will be attached to the first one.

Instructions for marking the surface for fixing drywall

In the process, we adhere to the following action plan:

1. We mark the mounting network from the reference width and length.
2. In the middle in the circles, we screw temporary self-tapping screws into the base coat and wind a cord around them with a pencil fixed at the edges. We draw circles.
3. Curvilinear elements are applied to thick cardboard in real scale, cut out and displayed on the base coat.
4. When the markings on the ceiling are completed, we proceed to measuring and beating the levels. To do this, we measure all angles.
5. In the lowest corner, mark the distance to the first level. Usually it is from 10 cm.
6. We stretch the paint cord along the wall, measuring evenness with a hydraulic level.
7. We make a beating around the perimeter of the entire room.

Installation of the first level frame for plasterboard ceiling

Install the frame in the following order:

• Along the perimeter of the room on the walls with a step of 60 cm we fix the guide profiles (UD). On the ceiling, we keep a distance of 40 cm. For fastening in rounded areas, we make notches on the profile in increments of 2.5 cm and bend it along the desired radius.
• With a step of 60 cm we attach direct suspensions. The ends are bent or cut off.
• We fix the ceiling profiles (CD) on the suspensions.
• In the places of the future installation of the second tier, we attach "crabs".

Installation of a second-level frame for a plasterboard ceiling

We are doing the installation according to the following instructions:

1. We fix the ceiling profile (UD) on the ceiling and wall according to the drawing.
2. We cut the guide profile along the length at which the second tier will be placed.
3. On one side of the segments made, we cut out peculiar “tongues”, cutting off the profile sides.
4. We insert it with a straight edge into the UD profile on the ceiling and fix it with metal screws in increments of 50-60 cm. Reducing the pitch will make the structure heavier, while increasing it will make it less reliable and not rigid enough.
5. On curved sections, we fasten the profile segments in increments of 20-30 cm.
6. We install a ceiling profile on the hanging segments, using metal screws as fasteners.
7. We cut the guide profile along the length of the sidewall of the base to ceiling profile on the wall and fasten both sides of it with metal screws.

At the same stage, you should deal with laying the wiring and supplying communications. All cables are placed in a corrugated sleeve made of heat-resistant plastic, which is fixed to the base coat. You also need to fix split systems, ventilation ducts and pipes. In places where lighting fixtures are installed, wires must be removed.

Features of fastening drywall to the ceiling

We fix drywall, adhering to the following algorithm of actions:

• Using self-tapping screws with a step of 15 cm, we fix the first corner sheet. We deepen the caps of the fasteners, but moderately so as not to damage the base.
• On opposite side attach the second sheet in the same way.
• If necessary, we mark the sheet according to the drawing and cut out the desired figure with a knife or jigsaw.
• We fix the side parts to the vertically located guides.
• We cut out round horizontal surfaces from a whole sheet or make up from separate segments.
• If curved elements are required for vertical fixation, we roll the cut-out part with a spiked roller.
• Spray the treated GCR and leave for an hour.
• We cut from the convex side, put on the edge and bend on the floor.
• With the help of weights, we fix the sheet in this position and wait for it to dry.
• We attach to the ceiling.

Finishing technology for a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Next, we attach squares of fiberglass to the PVA glue, apply a layer of finishing putty up to 1.5 cm thick. After drying, we grind with fine-grained paper and prime the surface. After that, you can do the finishing and installation of lighting fixtures.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling using the reverse fixation method

In the process, we adhere to the following instructions:

1. We apply markings on the ceiling and walls, according to the project of the future structure.
2. We fix the guide profile along the lines on the ceiling and walls. If necessary, bends make cuts on adjacent sides.
3. We mark the attachment points of the ceiling profile in increments of 0.4 meters.
4. We carry out projections of the profile axes and put spring suspensions in these places with a step of 0.6 meters. As fasteners we use anchor dowels. But dowel-nails are undesirable to use. The plastic base softens when heated, so in the event of a fire in your apartment or floor above, the ceiling will simply fall on your head.
5. We cut segments from the ceiling profile along the height of the second tier, make tongues and fix them on the guide profile.
6. We form from the ceiling profile bottom contour and attach it to the formed racks.
7. We fix individual longitudinal segments between the structure and the wall profile.
8. We fix the transverse profiles using "crabs".
9. We install direct suspensions on the upper level installation site.
10. We sheathe the GKL ceiling with self-tapping screws.
11. We putty the joints and reinforce the coating with fiberglass.
12. Apply finishing putty, sanding the surface and priming.

In the same way, you can make drywall bunk construction with low level equipment only. The base ceiling will be used directly as the top one. In this case, the surface will need to be completely leveled with plaster or putty.

Most builders note that during the renovation of an apartment or house, one of the most difficult processes is how to make a plaster ceiling or any other material.

The unevenness of various tiled floors, and the fact that the corners almost never correspond to each other, and many other details interfere with the quick execution of work. To hide all these shortcomings today is quite difficult. And rather not so much difficult as expensive.

This article will consider step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling, which has a huge number of advantages, ranging from ease of installation to reasonable prices.

What tools will be needed?

If you are thinking about how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, then first of all you should do various preparatory work for the main process, namely: it is important to purchase the building materials necessary for quick installation of the ceiling, as well as prepare all the tools.

In order to install your own two-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need:

• Water type level in order to accurately mark the place where the guide level will be installed.

• For fast drilling of various openings any puncher.
• Scissors with which it will be possible to cut metal.
• "Bulgarian".
• Screwdriver for fastening GKL, as well as a profile.
• Roll

Frame installation

The first thing to do is to choose a place for future marking of the place where the guide profile will be installed. Labels should be applied after all containers have water at the same level.

It is up to you to decide exactly how many centimeters to retreat from the building ceiling, however, most builders offer to look at a photo of a plasterboard ceiling in order to understand that the distance should not be less than ten centimeters.

After the completion of the work of the first stage, that is, after marking has been carried out on each wall, you can proceed to drilling several holes for the dowels. For this, a perforator is used.

After completing the installation of the guide profile, using the prepared tape measure, it is necessary to make marks right along the perimeter with an average interval of about 60 cm.

If you want to do enough simple design, consisting of only one level, then there is no need to install popular c-profiles in two directions at once. It is enough to markup exclusively on two opposite sides.

After that, you can proceed to fixing the suspension. After completing the installation of all direct suspensions, you can proceed to the installation of the ceiling profile and the subsequent sheathing of the ceiling with sheets.

Ceiling decoration

To date, a huge number of different ways of decorating the ceiling are offered. Thanks to the active development of the construction industry in stores, you can find many different decorative materials that will decorate the ceiling.

Everything will depend solely on taste preferences and financial capabilities. Someone prefers plaster molding, and someone is delighted with foam baguettes.

You should not pay attention to various kinds of fashion trends, as they quickly pass, but you will definitely live with a new renovation for more than one or two years.

It is important that the ceiling gives you only joy from looking at it and creates a feeling of comfort in the room.

After you decide what the ideal ceiling looks like after repair, it is important to assess whether you can afford it financially, and if the answer is yes, then you can safely go to the store building materials and choose what will quickly make your dreams come true perfect ceiling into reality.

There is nothing difficult in the technology of creating false ceilings using drywall.

It is only necessary to remember that before doing anything, you need to think several times, since such a ceiling is not set for a year or even five years.

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Photo of a plasterboard ceiling

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We make a two-level ceiling with plasterboard sheathing: a detailed photo report from the installation work

Greetings. This time you will learn how to make a two-level ceiling. That is, in this article I will gradually describe the technology of work that you can handle on your own.

The design that we will make is good because it can be installed on any, not even the most even, base. In addition, if desired, various communications can be laid in the gap between the multi-level structure and the ceiling, starting with low-voltage and power wiring and ending with the installation of lighting and ventilation systems.

Material selection

There are many materials from which you can assemble a multi-level ceiling. For example, a two or three-level ceiling can be assembled:

• from plastic panels- relevant for business and non-residential premises with high level air humidity;
• from wooden panels- an expensive solution for finishing residential premises, decorated mainly in a classic style;
• from vinyl sheet- these are the so-called stretch ceilings, which are one-stop solution for any premises;
• from plasterboard sheets (GKL) is optimal solution for residential premises.

Regardless of the type of cladding material chosen, it must be understood that the multi-level structures are based on a load-bearing frame, which must be strong enough to withstand the weight of a heavy sheathing. As a material for making load-bearing frame Traditionally, a wooden beam or a metal profile is used.

Features of installation of plasterboard multi-level ceilings

I bring to your attention photo report on how a two-level ceiling with lighting was assembled from a conventional centrally located chandelier. The design is based on metal frame sheathed sheet drywall.

To make it clear what we will build, pay attention to these drawings.

In no case do we start work without having a drawing of the ceiling and frame. At best, the lack of a drawing can cause an overrun of building materials. In the worst case, due to the lack of a drawing, gross errors can be made and the assembled structure will have to be redone.

In the drawing, the perimeter of the room is 4.10 × 3.75 m, if you use this scheme to finish another room, the dimensions will have to be recalculated.

The first level will be centered, while the second level will function as decorative frame along the perimeter.

The strip along the short wall is a niche that we will provide for installing curtains along the entire wall. In the center of the first level, it is planned to install a polyurethane socket, selected in one style decision with the whole structure.

The difference between the first and second levels will be 40 mm, which is enough for apartments with a ceiling height of 2.50 or 2.60 m. If you make the difference in level more significant, the design will visually crush. If indoors high ceilings, then the distance between the levels can be increased, but then you have to redo the drawing.

Now let's take a closer look at the frame diagram.

We will install a profile 27 × 28 mm along the perimeter. The main profiles will be located in increments of 50 cm, and the intermediate profiles will be installed in increments of 40 cm. The profile for mounting the GKL joints will be installed in a run-out, which is correct, since the design will provide higher strength.

The frame configuration, which can be seen in the proposed diagram, is attractive due to the ease of assembly, as well as the fact that the profile can be installed without cutting a large number of different-sized pieces. Embedded elements for fixing lighting fixtures will be installed in the center of the frame.

So, we have considered the installation drawings, it remains to proceed with the assembly.

Assembling the supporting frame of the first level

The assembly of the supporting frame is the most difficult and time-consuming stage, the quality of the finished ceiling depends on its implementation. To assemble the frame, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Mounting steel profile with cross section 27×28 mm;
• Damper tape around the perimeter of the room;
• Hangers for mounting the profile to the draft ceiling;
• Dowel-nails for fastening the profile to the walls based on the installation in increments of 40 cm;
• self-tapping screws;
• Hacksaw and scissors for metal;
• Screwdriver with drill function with drills and bits;
• water level;
• Lace for stuffing the level;
• Sturdy and stable ladder.

• On the ceiling we fix the necessary communications, namely the wiring, which we will later cover with plasterboard sheathing;
• We beat off the level with the help of a spirit level and paint laces;
• If the profile you bought does not have perforations, we drill holes for the diameter of the dowel-nails;

• According to the intended level, we apply the profile to the wall, so that the lower side of the profile coincides with the lined level;
• Through the holes in the profile, we drill holes in the wall to the length of the dowel-nail seal;
• We nail the profile with dowel-nails along the perimeter of the room;
• After the profile is fixed around the perimeter, we mark the directions in which intermediate profiles will be installed;
• We measure the distance and, in accordance with the measurements taken, we increase the profiles;

• We insert and fasten the extended profiles according to the marking made so that the joints are located in a run-up, that is, with an offset relative to each other;

• We apply pre-bent metal suspensions to the ceiling above the profile in increments of 50 cm and fasten them with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws, depending on what materials the ceiling is made of;
• We fasten the suspension strips to the sidewalls of the profile with self-tapping screws;

Installed beams sag under their own weight. Therefore, fixing them on suspensions, we check the degree of curvature on the laser level and, if necessary, raise or lower. By the way, in without fail we install the suspension at the joints of the connected profiles.

• In accordance with the drawing, we mark the places for the installation of transverse profiles;

• According to the marks, we fasten the trimmings of a narrow profile as shown in the previous photo;

• We cut the transverse jumpers and install them in pre-screwed profile trimmings and fix them with self-tapping screws;

• In the center of the room, we install embedded elements for the lighting fixture.

How to beat the level? We set a mark in one corner of the room at the lowest point of the ceiling. From this mark on the wall, we apply a flat bar with a spirit level fixed on it.

Move the edge of the bar up and down until required level will not be found. After that, the second label is set. A lace is pulled between two marks and a trace is beaten off.

Similarly, we pass through the rest of the walls. The start and end marks after the level has been determined must match.

However, there is a simpler, more accurate, and therefore more effective method. In the middle of the room, a spacer is installed strictly vertically on which the laser level is attached. With the help of this device, we set the marks in the corners and we beat off the line according to the marks already made.

Do you think that the laser level is expensive, and therefore it is better to work the old-fashioned way with a spirit level? The laser level is really expensive, but it can be rented, which is quite justified for a one-time use.

How to increase intermediate profiles? The fact is that standard length profiles is 3 meters, which is more than a meter less than the length of our premises.

You can increase the length as follows. We take a profile cut 30-40 cm long and cut off the rolled edge from the sides. We insert the workpiece into the ends of adjacent profiles so that all the parts are evenly spaced.

On the sides, we fasten the connected parts to the insert with several self-tapping screws. The assembled connection is strong, but the drywall sheets fixed on it will make the structure even more rigid and reliable.

What hangers should be used to fasten the profile to the draft ceiling? On sale there are many varieties of suspensions, which differ in the type of perforation, as well as the thickness and rigidity of the metal.

What to choose? Best Choice are hangers for four holes made of thick metal. The presence of four holes, instead of two, allows you to more securely screw the profile to the ceiling and avoid subsequent sagging.

The choice of hardware made of thick metal is due to the fact that such products are more rigid, which means that it is more convenient to work with them and that assembled structure will be more static.

Self-plating frame GKL

So, the first level of the frame is assembled, it remains to sheathe it with drywall. The word "independent" in the title is not used by chance, since few people do this stage themselves, mostly they resort to the help of one or two assistants.

From this instruction you will learn how to do everything yourself without an assistant:

• Before proceeding with the sheathing, we cut out the sheets so that they stand in length from one wall to another;

• We make markings on the GKL for the passage of profiles in a pre-assembled crate;

• According to the markup, we apply the rule and draw the stripes;

• We attach the prepared sheets to the frame and fasten them with self-tapping screws;

• After the entire ceiling is sheathed, the installation of the first level can be considered complete.

Comments on the installation of drywall on the first level

How to mark and cut sheets? We just count how many times the length of the sheet will fit along the wall. Accordingly, we prepare so many whole sheets, and cut a small piece to fit the size of the remaining area.

Do not try to prepare sheets immediately for the entire ceiling. The angles between the walls can be indirect, as a result, through a row, the extreme plates will have to be shortened or, on the contrary, increased. Therefore, we cut the plates into one row, and after the installation is completed, we make separate measurements for the next row.

The marking on the plates in accordance with the passage of the profiles is done for your own convenience. If you work without marking, it is almost impossible to determine the location of the beams in the middle of the sheet.

How to tighten a self-tapping screw? The screw must be screwed in so that the cap is flush with the surface of the sheet. At the same time, the self-tapping screws must not be twisted so as not to disrupt the thread cut in the profile.

How to understand when the screw is tightened enough? Experience comes with time and this moment can be felt after two or three screwed screws.

By the way, in expensive sets of screwdrivers, bits with a limiter are provided. The limiter is designed for a certain screwing depth, which will prevent the drywall from being pushed through and the threads on the profile to be licked off.

How to work with heavy sheet drywall yourself? Despite the fact that the GKL weighs a lot, this sheet material can be lifted, adjusted in place and fixed with your own hands.

The trick is to use inclined beams, along which we push the edge of the sheet under the ceiling. After that, it remains for us, holding the other edge, to climb the ladder and fix the sheet with self-tapping screws.

However, this method is relevant if the installation takes place along the walls. And how to work in the center of the room?

When working in the center of the room, you need to make two shelves from the profile, as shown in the photo.

We fix the first shelf at a distance of 20-30 cm from the place where the joint of the plates will be located. We fasten the second shelf on one side about 20 cm closer than the edge of the plate will be located.

During installation, lay the edge of the sheet in, fixed on both sides. Raise the free edge of the sheet, pull up the second partially fixed shelf and fasten it from the second side.

As a result, the sheet lies on two shelves, which means we can align it and fix it with self-tapping screws.

So, with the first level completely sorted out, it remains to proceed to the second level.

Installation of the frame of the second level

Before proceeding with the installation of the second-level frame, we will slightly modify our drawing, namely, we note where the frame will come.

A frame will be attached around the perimeter of the room, repeating the frame of the first level. Further, the frame will pass along the patterned part, where the second level will dock with the first level.

Also, profiles will run from the frame fixed along the perimeter of the room to the central decorative part, on which the joints of the sheets will be attached. To reinforce the structure, diagonal inserts will pass from the decorative part to the corners.

To assemble the structure, the same profile with a section of 27 by 28 will be used.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• We glue the joints of the ceiling and the wall, where the glazing is located with a sickle tape and apply a leveling layer of putty;
• We transfer the markup from the drawing to the ceiling;
• We connect the applied markup with lines and draw the radii of the decorative part;

There may not be a large compass at hand, what to do in this case? We take a piece of the profile, longer than the radius of the required circle.
From one end of the bar, drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. From this hole we measure a length equal to the radius that needs to be drawn and drill another hole. We fasten the bar with a self-tapping screw to the center of the circle, and insert a pencil into the opposite hole. Scrolling the bar around its axis, you can draw the necessary circle.

• We cut the profile along the length of the radius elements (the length of the radius elements can be measured with a tape measure);

• On the side walls of the profile, we make cuts in increments of 5 cm;

The notches on one side should match the notches on the other side. If the cutouts on one and the other side are spaced apart, the profile cannot be bent evenly.

• We install the prepared "snakes" on top of the markings of the radius elements so that the cutouts look at the perimeter of the walls;

• We fasten straight-line structural elements according to the marking;

• We fix the frame around the perimeter;

Since the first level was carefully leveled during installation, we make the second level frame without a spirit level and similar devices. We simply press the profile to the joint and fix it with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm.

• We install and fasten mortgages, which will fall on the joints of adjacent sheets;
• We install diagonal jumpers to provide additional structural strength;

• For greater reliability, we fasten diagonal jumpers not only at the ends, but also in the middle, using corners cut from the profile.

On this, the installation of the frame is completed and you can proceed to its sheathing.

Installation of drywall on the second level

Installation of a two-level ceiling, namely, the frame sheathing is performed as follows:

• In accordance with the drawing, we make markings on drywall;

• According to the markings made, we carry out the cutting of the main elements and sides, which will go along the perimeter of the decorative difference between the first and second levels;

We cut thin strips for sheathing the perimeter of radius and straight elements from drywall across the sheet. If the strips are cut lengthwise, they will break when bent. If you cut the strips transversely, they can be bent.

The surface of the cut strips should be the same - this will greatly simplify the installation

• We collect the sides in a pile, we hook them with a clamp and sandpaper, we remove various irregularities from the end;
• We process with sandpaper the ends of the remaining elements of the skin;

• We fasten a narrow rim along the perimeter of straight and radius parts;

• We fix a niche along the wall with glazing;
• We install and fasten the main casing;

Since the installation work is carried out alone, you will have to take care of the devices with which you can hold the massive skin elements. In our case, a spring-loaded rod from a laser level was used. We rest the bar with one end against the floor, and with the other end against the structural element to be installed.

• We remove irregularities at the joints of the installed sheathing elements using an electric jigsaw, a segment knife or sandpaper fixed on a grater.

• We embroider the joints between adjacent plates, cutting off the border with a segment knife.

After completing the above work, the installation can be considered completed, which means you can proceed to finishing ceiling. Familiarize yourself with detailed instruction putty plasterboard surfaces can be in my previous articles.

Output

Now you know how to make a two-level ceiling in the kitchen or living room. I hope the instructions provided were helpful to you.

If you have any questions, ask them in your comments to the text and be sure to watch the video in this article. After finishing the installation work at home, tell us about your results. I'm sure everyone will be interested.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

On this moment it is very fashionable, and it is convenient to make two-level plasterboard ceilings and at the same time install built-in lights for the main or auxiliary lighting there. As practice shows, such designs are extremely convenient and beautiful, moreover, based on the total cost of repairs, they are relatively inexpensive. I will tell you now how you can do it yourself without resorting to the help of hired craftsmen, but will consolidate your knowledge of the video in this article.

Bunk ceiling

Now I want to give a list - it will be like an instruction on the availability of a tool:

• first of all, you will need a metric tape measure and a marking pencil, without which it is impossible to do in any case;
• in addition, you can not do without a long building rule;
• you will also need 2 levels - this is a water or laser, as well as a long building level;
• perforator;
• a screwdriver or drill with a PH-2 nozzle and a drywall nozzle (this is the same PH-2, only with a lampshade);
• a construction knife and an ordinary wood saw for cutting plasterboard;
• planer for grinding edges;
• building corner;
• kapron threads;
• chocline (paint cord);
• crown cutters for drywall for mounting recessed fixtures;
• if you still want to putty on your own, then a set of spatulas, a mixer and a rubberized bucket for preparing the mixture (bunk plasterboard ceilings also need putty ) .

materials

Table of types of profiles for drywall

To begin with, let's figure out which profiles will be needed so as not to buy everything in a row as unnecessary, especially since the total price will come out decent:

• if the height of the room is not more than 250 cm, then you will get two-tiered ceilings with a minimum difference, that is, by the width of the profile;
• which means you will need CD and UD as well as CW 50/50mm and UW 50/40mm (see table). Thus, the minimum height of the room will be about 240 cm, and the maximum - 245 cm;
• if the room is high, then you will need the same CD and UD for the upper tier, but for the lower plane you can freely use even 100 mm profiles;
• but, if there is a need to save materials, then only CD and UD can be dispensed with;
• to stiffen the corners, metal and plastic corners are used;

• in the two photos above you see two types of suspensions and, as a rule, a two-level ceiling device needs only one of them - tape;
• wire suspensions with traction are needed only when there is a need to lower the ceilings - in old houses they can reach 4-4.5 m;

• for joining the profiles to each other, as well as for fixing them to the suspensions, special small self-tapping screws are used (they are also called "fleas" or "fleas");
• they have a length of 9-11 mm, the tip is tapered or cutting, but I recommend choosing a cone - this way you will lose screws less when using;

Recommendation. When buying "fleas", it is advisable to check the quality of the cross so that they do not fly off the screwdriver during twisting. To do this, put a screw on the nozzle and lower it a little below the horizontal - if it holds, then this is a good batch. In some cases, they break off the nozzle even before it takes a horizontal position - this is defective material.

• for fastening UD and UW profiles to the wall around the perimeter, as well as for fixing hangers to the ceiling, dowels 6 × 40 or 6 × 50 mm and self-tapping screws 70-75 mm long are used. But I do not recommend using impact dowels on a two-level plasterboard ceiling - this is too weak a mount;

• sheets of drywall to the frame are fastened with self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm long;

• finally the most main element, which is needed for a two-level ceiling in this case, is ceiling drywall. Sheet thickness can be 6.5 mm (China) or 8 mm.

Stage one - measurements and marking

It all starts with marking with a water or laser level - for this we select two heights - one for the upper, and the second for the lower tier. Just do not forget that the ceiling sinus in the lowest place must be at least 30 mm, otherwise you simply will not have a CD on the crate - it will rest. Below this point, set the second one, and the distance between them will be the difference in the difference in tiers.

Now, from these two points, transfer marks to each corner using the same level, just try to do it as accurately as possible. After transferring the points to all corners (they need to be placed on each side of the break for greater accuracy), connect the marks with a chokeline. This job requires at least two people.

In the same way, you need to mark the ceiling so that the lines pass through it every 50 cm, but there is one caveat here - these are the corners of the room. You need to choose the most flat wall, and finding an acute angle, measure 50 cm from it - then such markings are carried out along the wall along the entire ceiling.

With the help of a building corner, draw the segments with your own hands in the direction of the opposite wall and then, focusing on them, beat off the control lines with a chokeline to the opposite wall.

This is important, because on the upper level you can not completely install the GKL along the perimeter, and you don’t need to do this, since it will overlap with the lower tier. And now, just for the lower level, these estimates are needed - you will have 5 profiles across the sheet, and when at one end, where 50 cm, it will reach the wall at an angle, and at the other it will rest, because there is 47 cm , then it is simply cut off. I want to say that there are almost never perfectly even corners (90 °) in apartments, therefore, do not forget about this measure.

Stage two - frame

Now we are starting to make the frame of a two-level ceiling and, first of all, we will fasten the UD along the upper perimeter in increments of no more than 30 cm - some manufacturers make profiles with pre-drilled holes, while others do not. Therefore, if there are no such holes, you can make them with a puncher when drilling the wall for dowels - right through the profile.

Since the dowel has 6 mm, the drill will also be of the same diameter, but the head of the seventieth self-tapping screw is 2 mm larger, therefore, you can easily press the profile with it.

When you're done with the UD, you can screw in the hangers, just try to make sure that the guide line cuts through the hanger exactly in the middle. When you screw it, do it not by the ears, but from the inside of the “Peshka” (suspensions for the crate as in the photo above), since when it is pulled back, it will sag under the mass, already when the ceiling is being installed.

Keep the distance between the suspensions in a row no more than 50-60 cm, as they are waiting for an additional load.

Now you need to put the CD profiles in their places, that is, insert them into the UD under the hangers, but only insert them, not screw them on. Measure the distance between the walls, and make the profile 5 mm smaller - it will be easier to insert it there so as not to bend, just take measurements along each line so as not to be mistaken if the wall is uneven.

Now you need to pull the thread under the crate, but the profiles will interfere with this - lift each of them a little higher than the level - for this, use the ears of the middle suspensions, bending them under the CD.

Note. Pull the thread like this: screw the “fleas” into the bottom shelf of the UD so that they turn out across the direction of the CD, wind the nylon thread tightly around them and clamp it.

When the thread is taut, you have a ready-made guide, and you can do without a level, that is, the CD is held on two edges, and you will only adjust them in the middle, along the thread. You can start from anywhere, even from the edge, even from the middle, the main thing is that the thread should be lower under each profile by about 0.5 mm. It is better to screw two “fleas” into each ear, so the ceiling will turn out to be less booming due to the lack of a slight backlash.

Now you should think about wiring and other communications that may be hidden in your bosom. Calculate where the fixtures will be, make (draw) a plan and make the wiring with taps, but, of course, do not power it until you have completed the entire installation. Wires, if they are not double-insulated, lay in a tubular corrugation and fasten to the draft ceiling - for this you can use the same suspensions, fixing them between the rows.

Stage three - installation of GKL

When the frame is ready, you can proceed with the installation of the GKL, but given that we have bunk ceiling from drywall, we can roughly estimate where the second tier will pass and do not mount the first level plasterboard on that plane - this is economical. Now we simply sew the sheets to the frame with twenty-fifth self-tapping screws at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other.

Only in order to correctly apply the sheets (so that there are no gaps), it is advisable to work with three or at least two together - only fairly experienced drywall workers work alone.

Another very important point, as a reminder (I already talked about this above) - to fix the GKL, be sure to use a nozzle, but not the usual PH-2, but with a lampshade, as in the photo above. It will not allow the head of the self-tapping screw to push through the cardboard and will be recessed on the 0.5-1 mm laid down by SNiP.

Now, according to your existing plan, make holes for recessed lights and pull out the bends. This is quite simple to do - if your hand does not fit, then take and make a hook out of aluminum wire.

Stage four - second tier

Now everything is much simpler - the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling continues in the same way that it started. That is, you draw the edges of the figure that you planned for the second tier, and screw the hangers along the upper level CD (here you can use both 50 mm and 70 mm self-tapping screws).

And here is another version of the second tier - wavy figures are located on two sides of the ceiling. There are a lot of such examples, and everything, for the most part, depends on your personal imagination, the size of the room and its purpose. Please note that a wider CW and UW profile is involved here - as I said above, you will have to determine the width yourself.

The top image shows very well the principle of bending a galvanized profile, and 2-level ceilings almost never do without it. At the same distance (it depends on the steepness of the bend), the shelves are cut, and you can safely bend it. But if it is in inside, then at the place of the cuts it is necessary to remove the triangular elements - so the petals will not overlap each other.

After you assemble the frame, it is best for you to close the vertical plane with a sheet and cut off the excess with a hacksaw only after screwing it on - this will turn out much more accurately. After that, make holes for the lamps and remove the wiring outlets. And then it will be already possible to move on to the vertical plane, which, most likely, has bends.

Pay attention to the top photo - in this case, I want to offer you the most convenient way to bend drywall sheets. Again, the size of the notches will depend on the steepness of the bend, but for example, I can say that for a circle of 1m, they are made at a distance of 50 mm. And one more very important point - dissections are made only from the convex side, and each of the fragments is screwed.

Note. I will not tell you how to putty a plasterboard ceiling for two reasons, firstly, this is a topic for an entire article, and secondly, I have already talked about this on my page.

Conclusion

If you decide to make a two-level drywall ceiling on your own, but at the same time you have never seriously engaged in the installation of plasterboard, then I do not advise you to invent too complex structures. In most cases, simplicity borders on genius! Well, if you have something to say, I invite you to leave a comment.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!