Country house plans. Drawings of country houses. Country house made from old windows

If you think that the small area of ​​your country house is a good reason why it cannot be beautiful, comfortable and cozy, then think again! We have selected photographs of amazing country houses, the area of ​​which does not exceed 40 sq.m. And most of them are much smaller! You will see inspiring examples of successful organization of a small space.

Country house with two bedrooms on different levels: 7 photos

This house, excluding the porch and carport, has an area of ​​37.6 sq.m. Despite its small size, it has two bedrooms - one downstairs and the other in the attic.

The house combines a sitting area, a dining room and a compact kitchen built along the rear wall. At the entrance to the house from the carport there is a wardrobe closet.

In the other half of the house there is a small bedroom.

Next to the bedroom is a bathroom, which is accessible from both the living room and the bedroom.

There is a second bedroom in the attic above the bedroom and bath.

Because The upper bedroom is quite spacious, then if the family is small but likes to receive guests, you can increase the living room area on the lower floor by eliminating the bedroom there.

For the same purpose, you can make a wider terrace at the entrance to the house, which will also provide more space to accommodate guests.

Modern country house with a loft style: 6 photos

The area of ​​the house in the photo is a little more than 37 square meters, the house has a living room, a kitchen-dining room, a bathroom and 2 bedrooms.
Looking at the photos of the interior, it's hard to believe that all this fit into this tiny space.

Thanks to a large number windows and light, from the inside the house does not seem small at all. On the contrary, it creates a feeling of spaciousness and comfort at the same time.

Behind the kitchen are the bathroom and bedroom. The space under the stairs to the attic is used as a storage room.

Small bedroom downstairs due to large windows It seems bright and cozy.

In the attic there is a fairly spacious children's bedroom.

Country house with a bright interior: 3 photos

And this lovely house, surrounded by greenery, was built by a married couple with their own hands. They did absolutely all the work themselves (including making furniture!), and it took them six years to build this house!

The interior of the house is filled with retro features and bright colors.

As well as original design solutions.

Original hut house: 4 photos

This cute country house captivates with its atmosphere: wood is everywhere in it, and this creates a unique charm. But admit it, you are one of those who looks at such houses and sighs: “Yes, it’s original, but in such a house it’s difficult to properly place everything...”

Let's see its interior, how everything is conveniently placed in this small space. The stairs lead to a cozy bedroom.

And on the ground floor there is a neat compact kitchen, a living room and a surprisingly spacious bathroom.

The kitchen has access to the terrace at the back of the house.

But the main thing in this house is the spirit of privacy and quiet life.

Practical country house 25 sq.m.

Beautiful and functional - no extravagance. It is not difficult to imagine such a house standing in the most ordinary village or on a summer cottage.

The same can be said about the interior.

The house has everything you need, while its area is only 25 square meters.

Country house from a construction trailer.

It turns out that a construction trailer can be turned into a stunning open-plan holiday home.

At the same time, the space inside such a structure cannot be called cramped.

Inside there is absolutely everything for a comfortable life, down to the shower and toilet.

Unusual country house in the form of a castle.

This house rightfully bears the proud name of a miniature castle. Being located quite high in the mountains, it amazes not only with its design, but also with its picturesque views.

Despite its modest size, there was room for everything inside, including a bedroom, modern kitchen, fireplace and - of course! - rocking chair.

Country house made from old windows.

We replace everything with new ones, while throwing away many old windows of varying degrees of wear. The owner of this house is in the process of installing windows, and she has always been tormented by the desire to find a use for the still quite good old windows. This is how this country house was built.

Various cozy little things give this house a special charm: an iron bed, old paintings. Huge windows let in a sea of ​​light, so it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to sleep until twelve in such a bedroom!

Country house with a sleeping attic: 9 photos

This country house with an area of ​​31.2 sq.m. is made from used materials: wood and roofing iron, while at the same time, for safety reasons, the electrical wiring and plumbing in the house are completely new.

Downstairs, the open-plan kitchen is connected to the living room. This small room It is quite comfortable for relaxation and accommodates a sofa and an armchair. In addition, the kitchen island has a folding dining table on the back wall.

It is also possible to place dining area on the covered veranda at the back of the house.

The bathroom is located behind the kitchen and is equipped with a toilet, sink and shower.

As you can see on the plan, there is a storage room next to the bathroom, and at both ends of the house country house has sleeping attics.

On the one side sleeping area located above the bathroom. The upward staircase is successfully combined with the kitchen shelving.

At night the house is lit with candles, oil lamps and electricity accumulated from solar panels during the day.

Country house in the trunk of an old spruce.

But first place in terms of originality must be given to this incredible structure. It is so small that it is very difficult to call it home. But the story of its creation is truly fantastic! The fact is that this house is hand-carved from the trunk of a giant spruce. All this enormous work was done alone by the artist Noel Wotten. It took him 22 years.

The dream of many citizens is a beautiful small house outside the city, where you can escape from the city noise and bustle, hide from the heat, and feel the pleasant freshness of the earth under your feet instead of hot asphalt. But not everyone’s dreams come true; it seems that a country house is complicated, expensive, and time-consuming. In fact, building a country house with your own hands is quite simple.

Planning the space

Choosing a location for a future country house is not the time for hasty decisions, because there is not that much space. Thoughtful competent planning will help you use every piece of land as efficiently as possible. Even though this is your land, you will have to fulfill a number of requirements, maintaining a minimum distance:

• from the street – 5 m
• from the passage – 3 m
• from the neighboring plot - 3 m

We are not considering the option with a low area - water will accumulate there. Optimally, the highest place on the site is in its northern (northwestern) part.

Projects of small country houses

Considering typical designs of country houses, it is easy to notice that the undisputed favorite is a one-story building with an attic. This is a time-tested option for a country house, but you can dispense with the utility unit, because equipment and household supplies can be stored in the attic.

You can add a terrace to the house - in summer it can be used as a dining room. Two-story country houses often obtained without actually constructing a “clean” second floor, having arranged instead attic. Then on the ground floor you can plan a kitchen and living room, and the second floor - for the personal space (bedrooms) of the owners.

Advice! You can save significantly on the heating system - even at the most modest prices for installing a classic one (boiler, pipes and radiators) accounts for 15-20% total budget. If you are building a small country house with your own hands, where you plan to live only during the “season” (late spring - early autumn), then to heat it in bad weather, you can get by with electric or infrared heaters.

Prefabricated country houses are becoming very popular - unpretentious, outwardly monotonous parallelepipeds with roof We replaced architecturally interesting buildings with an improved layout, one or two floors.

You are buying a kind of construction kit; such a country house can be easily erected with only basic knowledge about construction. The main thing is that it already includes all the systems - electrical wiring, ventilation, air conditioning, plumbing. This will help avoid many mistakes that beginners make when they decide to build a country house with their own hands.

A prefabricated country house is designed for a long holiday with family or friends; it is larger in area, can be one or two floors, with an improved layout. Such a house is equipped with a technical room, a kitchen, rest rooms and a bathroom, equipped with a heating, ventilation, air conditioning system, and supplied with electricity.

The house can be equipped with a water heater, sink, countertop, hanging shelves, shower cabin, necessary plumbing. After installing such a country house, no additional repair work, it is completely ready for use.

Laying the foundation

The choice of foundation type is directly related to the choice of material from which the house will be built, as well as the number of storeys. Light houses (from rounded wood, timber, frame houses and modular) can be erected on columnar or screw foundation, heavy (brick, aerated concrete, stone, concrete blocks) and two-story houses will require bookmarks strip foundation(as an option - prefabricated, made of reinforced concrete blocks) around the entire perimeter and under the load-bearing walls of the house.

It is important to know the depth of soil freezing - the foundation should be laid below this level, taking into account the level at which groundwater lies.

In the basement part it is required to install waterproofing at a level of 0.2-0.5 m from the ground. If the soil is dry enough (sand), you can use it as a screed cement-sand screed 2-4 cm thick. For wet soil, roofing material will need to be laid on top of such a screed - in two layers. As an option, roofing felt can be glued onto a dry screed using hot mastic. Waterproofing is installed below the expected level of laying the floor beams.

Advice! In the basement, to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, small holes are made, which are covered with a protective mesh.

A blind area is created around the base, its width is at least 70 cm (it should protrude further than the overhang of the cornice), with a slight slope directed from the walls of the house. To do this, the top layer of earth is removed, clay (sand) is poured, and on top of it is a layer of crushed stone (gravel, broken bricks) and filled with concrete (rolled with asphalt).

Floor and walls

Flooring begins with laying joists. To insulate the floor, insulation is laid between the joists, on top of which a vapor barrier is laid. It is attached to the joists with a stapler, and the joints are taped. Then the subfloor is laid, for which they use an unedged, cheapest board, having previously treated it with an agent against dampness and rot. And only then the finished floor is laid out. IN two-story house the frame for the floor on the second floor is ceiling beams first.

Even a small country house should have at least a kitchen and a recreation room. If you plan to spend the whole summer outside the city, in addition to often receiving guests, it makes sense to build a full-fledged building with all the amenities. We invite you to look at photos of country house projects.

Basic requirements of SNiP

To the building located on garden plot, the requirements are less stringent than for residential building. However, if during the construction process you create discomfort for your neighbors, you may be forced to demolish the finished building.

Therefore, before choosing a project, you should familiarize yourself with the basic requirements of SNiP:

• even on small area the building can only be located at a distance of 3 m from the neighbor’s fence
• the minimum distance from public territory (road) is also 3 m, and if there is a passage 5 m
• if there are other buildings on your site, in order to reduce the risk of their fire, the distance between block or stone buildings is left at least 6 m, between stone and wooden building 10 m, if both buildings are wooden - 15 m; when using wood only as a ceiling - 8 m
• if there is a nearby power line, the distance from it is from 10 m; from high voltage line it is even larger up to 40 m
• a certain distance (up to 4 m) must be retreated from tree trunks; 2 m is sufficient from low-growing trees.

Don't forget about building density. With standard dacha plot sizes of 6-10 acres, you have the right to occupy no more than 30% of the area with buildings.

The territory must have a mesh or lattice fence 1.5 m high. Solid fences are allowed only if this is agreed upon by the meeting of gardening members or both neighbors agree to this.

Do I need any permission?

According to Art. 51 clause 1 part 17 of the Civil Code of the Russian Federation in the event that the building is not intended for permanent residence, no special building permit is required. But to obtain ownership rights to an already built garden house, as well as to other outbuildings, you will need to issue a cadastral passport and register with the Registration Chamber (according to a simplified scheme).

If it is planned to erect a residential building on a garden plot with the right to register in it, then it will be necessary to obtain a special permit signed by the executive authorities and a construction passport. And also permission fire inspection. In the future, registration of ownership of the building will also be required.

Even a small building should last long enough

To make your country house as comfortable as possible, you should listen to the opinions of experts:

• No matter how much you would like to build something unusual on your site, with little construction experience it is better to settle on a universal project that has already been tested over the years
• when planning, you should immediately determine the size of the rooms and their location; this will allow you to immediately determine the supply of communications (sewage and water supply), which are laid at the stage of building the foundation
• In order to save your own money, the design of even a temporary building must be thought out so that in the future it can be used as a bathhouse, barn or summer kitchen
• be sure to take into account the possibility of further adding additional premises to the building: verandas, terraces, bathhouses and other buildings
• even in a small house it is worth providing not only a relaxation room, but also a kitchen area
• in the absence of other buildings, a separate place should be allocated for placing garden tools
• the building must be durable enough to last at least 25-30 years

How much will construction cost?

Regardless of the size of the future garden house Before starting construction, you will need to calculate the cost of its construction. To do this you need to think about:

• Main settings: length, width and height of the building
• type of foundation and its height
• the type of materials used to construct the walls and their thickness
• roof type
• materials used for flooring
• dimensions of each room
• heating methods (if planned)
• types of finishing materials
• communication methods: electricity, sewerage, etc.

There are enough programs on the Internet that can calculate approximate cost construction of any type of buildings. Most of them have a free trial period. You can also use online calculators for calculations. Please note that the cost of materials may differ from those in your region of residence.

Since prices during the construction of a country house may increase if construction is planned for a long time, It is better to include a reserve of at least 10-20% of the total cost in the estimate. When calculating the cost, do not forget that such “little things” as roofing bolts, screws, primer, and plaster will also require considerable expenses.

It is better to purchase materials in one place - bulk purchases will be much cheaper.

Choosing a location on the site

Choice optimal location Location on

First you need to draw up a scale plan of the estate and mark the cardinal directions on it. We immediately mark on it existing buildings and large plants that are not subject to demolition. We shade all restricted areas on the plan (distances from the fence, power lines, etc.).

You should also not locate the building near compost pits and toilets - at the slightest breath of wind unpleasant odors will get into the house. We mark favorable zones in dotted lines. Try to plan the site in such a way that even after construction there will be space for outbuildings (if they are needed), recreation areas, for example, a swimming pool, gazebos, playgrounds, etc.

In addition to the distances from neighboring buildings and roads established by SNiP, you should also focus on other factors:

• It is better to locate a country house closer to access roads and sources of communications: loading and unloading crops and household items will not be a big problem in this case, and connecting to power supply and other communications will be cheaper
• wind direction: to prevent the building from drying out quickly, you should not place windows and doors on the side of the prevailing winds
• when the windows face south or east of the room in summer time will overheat quickly, it is better if the sun hits them in the afternoon
• so that groundwater does not destroy the foundation of the building, the house is located on the most elevated place; in wetlands, if no alternative is available, consideration will need to be given to reliable system drainage and foundation waterproofing
• pay attention to appearance from the window, because comfort always comes from such little things.

Take your time choosing a project. Start development at least six months before the start of construction so that you have the opportunity to think it through thoroughly and make calculations without rushing.

We are drawing up a project

Of course, the design of a country house can be ordered from a specialized organization, but the prices for such services are considerable. During construction small house much easier to use now ready-made diagrams, which abound on the Internet, and supplement them with your own calculations.

Building plan

You will need several drawings. The first one indicating the location of all premises, entrance and window openings, as well as the thickness of walls and partitions. The second figure shows the layout of the foundation and the roofing scheme.

Small building project

It is impractical to build too large a structure on 3-6 acres of land– it will take up most of the site. A grandiose structure is not required even if you spend little time at the dacha. In some cases, a small building without a foundation and assembled from boards or even plywood is sufficient. However, such a house will not last long.

Inexpensive panel or foam block buildings on a pile foundation will cost a minimal amount and will even go to your grandchildren. A small country house can have standard size 3x3 or 4x4 m, and it will be possible to provide even a separate small walk-through kitchen-dining room. The second room will have one or two sleeping places.

A small house may have only one room with space for kitchen cabinets, dining table and sleeping area. But even for a small country house, it makes sense to attach a winter glazed veranda or terrace along the long side of the building, 2 m long. The veranda is built on a common foundation or the foundation for it is poured separately.

Such a house can be made with a summer or winter attic. A medium-sized building will occupy a minimum of free space on the land plot, while the living area will increase. If there is an attic, bedrooms are located in it, and on the ground floor there is a kitchen and a bathroom.

Add such a building better veranda or a terrace where you can comfortably settle down to relax in the evening. For better heat retention, a vestibule can be provided in front of the entrance. Small Summer shower fits perfectly on the veranda.

If lightweight timber is used to build walls, and there are no problems with the soil (it is not too wet or loose, and groundwater does not rise too high), it is sufficient to erect a strip foundation. The foundation for the stove is prepared simultaneously with the foundation of the house. For a veranda, a columnar base will be sufficient.

For a log house made of 150x150 timber, a strip of foundation 25 cm wide is prepared. The terrace is installed separately on pillars with a cross-section of 25 cm, buried in the ground at a distance of 60 cm. When building in marshy areas or erecting brick walls, you will need a full-fledged deeply buried foundation.

To save money, the foundation for the veranda can be made as a separate lightweight foundation (column or pile). It can be added after construction is completed. But the option with separate suitable foundation only if there is soil that is not prone to movement, otherwise the foundation will move.

Large house project

If the family is large and the country house is planned to be used as a residential one, including in winter, it makes sense to build a permanent building from rounded logs, timber or even brick according to ready-made designs measuring 5.3x8.4 m, 7x8.4 m, 10x8 m and more. You can also order the development of your own non-standard project.

Such houses require a full strip foundation. It is laid below the freezing point of the soil, so that when seasonal temperatures change, movement and deformation of the structure does not occur.

A large country house can be two-story or consist of one floor and an insulated attic. It will have enough space not only for residents, but also for guests. On the ground floor there is a kitchen, bathroom and living room, and on the second floor there are bedrooms, children's rooms, an office and other rooms if necessary.

To avoid unnecessary problems with the supply of water, gas and sewerage, it is not worth moving the bathroom and cooking room to the second floor. It is also customary to arrange the living room on the ground floor, near the kitchen and away from the bedrooms.

If the building is planned to be used all year round, it is better to build not an attic, but a full second floor. Otherwise, almost the same amount of money will be spent on its insulation, wind and vapor barrier as on the construction of the second floor. It is also necessary to take into account heating costs - in winter cold capital walls will retain heat much better than even well-insulated ones thin walls attics.

House with an attic

A country house with an attic will cost less than the construction of a full-fledged two-story building only if it will be used only in the summer. But even when arranging it you will need insulation. Otherwise, on sunny days it will be too hot. The heat insulation layer is made slightly thinner than for winter use.

If only the first floor is heated, only the walls of the building and the ceiling are insulated, leaving the attic cold. The door/lid intended for access to the upper floor is made as tight as possible and additionally insulated.

When constructing a conventional gable roof, the living space in the attic will not be enough. To increase the free space, the roof is made broken. However, its construction is more complex, and more materials will be required.

Another way to expand the space in the attic is to raise the walls just above the first floor. Such houses are called “one-and-a-half story houses.” By raising the walls, the area of ​​the premises will increase slightly.

Project of a house with a glazed veranda

The veranda can be attached to only one side of the house or run along two or even three walls. On heaving soils, it is better to build the foundation for it simultaneously with the foundation of the house. After all, when making a separate shallow foundation, you will gain only 1-2 m.

Most often, the veranda is completely glazed or the lower half of the wall is covered, and double-glazed windows or single frames are inserted along the top. You will receive a full-fledged room in which you can equip a dining room, living room or kitchen. In the warm season, the windows can be opened wide.

The veranda can also serve as a continuation of the living room. It can also be equipped with a small sports section, children's game room or even an office.

House with terrace

On the covered terrace you can not only sit down for tea on a warm summer evening. On hot or rainy days, you can use it to do some current chores without littering the house. Often it is built upon completion of the main construction on a separate columnar foundation.

The garage is built as an extension to the house or is located on ground floor. The walls and foundation can be made of brick or concrete blocks. If the soil is wet or loose, the house is installed on a reinforced concrete pad.

Two-storey house

If the family is large enough, and the size of the plot does not allow building a large country house, it makes sense to build a two-story building. In this case, you will be able to squeeze the maximum benefit out of even a small piece of land. The size of such a structure can be any from 4x4 m to 10x10 m or more.

The construction of a second floor will not cost much more. The load on the foundation increases by only 60%. Costs for flooring and roofing do not increase at all. Only the cost of materials for walls and floor coverings will be added. Thus, square meter area will cost less than in the case of a one-story building.

Experts do not advise overloading houses made of timber with an additional floor. It has enough advantages, but its strength has limits.

Country house combined with a bathhouse or sauna

If land plot does not allow you to allocate a separate place for the construction of a bathhouse; it can easily be attached to a country house. Such a project is also economically beneficial - after all building materials a separate building will cost much more. There will be no need for separate communications - light and water supply.

Very often, a bathhouse or sauna is added to a house after construction is completed. The foundation for it is selected depending on the type of soil and total weight building. To protect against moisture, the walls are carefully waterproofed.

Even if a bathhouse is being built simultaneously with a residential building, the foundation for it is made separate so that due to the difference in humidity, cracks do not appear and it does not move away from the general structure. The foundation must be built separately from the foundation of the house.

Indeed, due to high humidity, cracks may appear in it, and the base of the bathhouse will begin to move away from the foundation of the entire structure. It contains sewer pipes and water supply pipes. A separate drainage pit is prepared at a distance of at least 3-5 m from the foundation.

To prevent moisture from entering the room, the entrances to the bathhouse or sauna and the house are made separate. Between them you can build a covered corridor-transition, a veranda, a gazebo, or at least a canopy - in this case, when moving from a bathhouse to a house in winter period the likelihood of catching a cold is reduced. Since baths and saunas are a source of high humidity, you should carefully consider the ventilation system and waterproofing of the room.

In addition to ventilation holes, it is advisable to provide a window or small window for ventilation. The most acceptable option is to connect the steam room to a wall with a stove located in the house. In this case, the bathhouse or sauna will dry out much faster.

House with bay window

A bay window is a small part of a room protruding beyond the facade. Such structures will look ridiculous against the background of a building of a regular shape. A bay window will look harmonious only if there is complex architecture, unusual shape windows, roof or entrance area.

It can be built into only one of the floors or pass through two floors at once. The bay window can have any shape: from semicircular to trapezoidal or pentagonal. With its help, it is possible to expand the area of ​​the building - in such extensions there are dining areas, winter gardens or offices.

In the absence of experience in construction, it is hardly possible to create such a structure, and the project will need to be ordered from specialists. However, such a house looks very unusual.

It is possible to attach a bay window after the construction of the country house. In this case, cantilever slabs are used as the foundation, which are built into load-bearing wall. Such a foundation is buried to the same level as the foundation of the entire house. To lay out shaped protrusions, brick or profiled timber with a special locking system is most often used.

The protruding elements of the bay window lead to a weakening of the rigidity of the entire structure, so the frame of the house must be strengthened.

How much will it cost to purchase a finished building?

If you have no experience in construction, it makes sense to purchase a ready-made turnkey building. Depending on the allocated amount, you can buy either a simple panel structure or a full-fledged structure made of timber or logs. Since the cost of materials in each region may vary, it is better to find out the prices for such houses on the relevant websites.

• Eg, small house made of 3x3 m timber with clapboard cladding will cost 60 thousand rubles.
• An average-sized building of 5x3 m will cost about 10 thousand rubles.
• A full-fledged log house with a veranda can be purchased for 270 thousand rubles.

Materials used for construction

The choice of foundation type depends on the type of soil and the total weight of the structure:

• columnar or pile foundations made from concrete blocks, bricks, reinforced concrete, rubble stone in increments of 1-2.5 m; to combine them into one structure that serves as the support of the house, a grillage made of wood or metal is used; most economical option, more suitable for light timber or frame buildings, log cabins; in country construction, screw piles are mainly used; driven, driven and drilled piles are used less frequently;
• strip foundation: a more durable support made of reinforced concrete, brick or rubble, such a tape runs along the entire perimeter of the house and internal partitions; is divided into two types: shallowly buried in the ground at 40-70 cm and deeply buried (used for heaving soils) 1.5-1.8 m below the freezing level; strip bases can be used for any type of house from cast, block to brick;
• slab base in the form of a monolithic reinforced slab located on a sand and gravel bed; when the soil heaves, such a foundation is capable of lowering and rising without any deformation; such a base simultaneously serves as a subfloor; Suitable for all types of buildings, including large ones.

Columnar foundation on loose soils or in close proximity groundwater unacceptable. In these cases, strip foundations are used.

Most types of foundations are built on a 20-30 cm sand and gravel cushion, which protects the foundation from groundwater and capillary moisture. It is especially important in the presence of heaving (peaty and clayey) soil, which, when frozen, changes its volume and rises to the top. In the absence of a sand and gravel substrate, this can lead to warping of the foundation and cracking of the walls.

This cushion also helps to perfectly level the base before pouring the foundation. With its help, the pressure of the building on the ground is distributed more evenly. If it is absent and the structure settles unevenly, it may simply warp. They don’t make such a pillow only for sandy soils or very wetlands.

When laying the foundation, sewerage and water supply pipes are immediately laid. Their depth is 0.5 m below the freezing point of the soil. If this is not possible, the pipes are additionally insulated. To ensure gravity flow of liquid, they are laid at a slight inclination of 4-7°.

Wall materials

The choice of materials for the walls of a country house depends on many factors: personal preferences, region of construction, duration of residence (all year round or only in the summer), project requirements and, of course, the allocated amount:

• frame or panel buildings: their main advantages are low cost and ease of construction; The disadvantages include high flammability, low wind resistance and poor thermal insulation - a few years after the shrinkage of mineral wool or polystyrene foam laid between the frame posts, it will be difficult to heat the house; service life 30-40 years;
• slag-cast: inexpensive buildings, for arranging the walls, formwork is prepared into which a mixture of cement and coal slag is poured; this method was even used in the construction of residential buildings several decades ago; the main disadvantage of this material is its low moisture resistance: inside such rooms, due to dampness, fungus quickly grows; service life up to 50-70 years;
• lightweight houses made of gas or foam blocks: these inexpensive materials are 8 times larger than ordinary bricks, so the construction of the building will be quick, in addition, the blocks are easy to saw or drill; due to their high porosity they have high heat and sound insulation; the service life of aerated concrete is up to 50-80 years, foam blocks are slightly lower;
• sandwich panel houses: unlike frame and panel panels, the strength element in them is not racks and crossbars, but the panel itself, filled with polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Such structures do not require assembly - fragments of the future building are delivered ready-made, all that remains is to assemble them; although such products are more expensive than panel and frame products, the disadvantages are the same - high flammability and short service life; although manufacturers claim that such a house can last up to a hundred years, in practice, within a couple of decades after the insulation shrinks, it will be problematic to live in the house permanently;
• houses made of timber or log cabins: durable eco-friendly building; excellent heat retention; service life 100 years or more; garden houses made of timber can be purchased ready-made, “turnkey”;
• brick or stone buildings: their construction will cost much more, but they will also last 100-150 years or more.

Roof

For an inexpensive country house, it would be optimal to use a roof made of metal tiles or corrugated sheets. Such a roof is quite durable and not afraid of bad weather and can last up to 40 years. Rolled metal coated with color protective film, looks quite aesthetically pleasing. Metal tiles are more convenient when arranging roofs of complex shapes.

The disadvantages of these two materials include high level noise during rain or wind - the impact of every drop will be heard in the room. That is why it is worth considering soundproofing the ceiling.

Inexpensive polystyrene foam is a good heat insulator, but there is no point in using it as a sound insulator - it conducts sounds quite well. In addition, this material is flammable.

When using roofing felt as a roof, it is better to choose a material with additional protective coating in the form of abrasive chips - it will last longer. However, service life inexpensive materials based on bitumen is short-lived and lasts only 12-15 years. For euroroofing felt based on fiberglass, it lasts a little longer - 20-30 years.

The most optimal material for the roof of a building used not only in summer, but also in winter, is slate. At a relatively low cost, it has excellent characteristics - it is not afraid of temperature changes, is chemically resistant, and its actual service life is up to 30-40 years. However, slate weighs a lot and increases the load on the foundation, so this fact must be taken into account when laying the foundation.

Arrangement of partitions

There is a rule in construction: partitions should not exceed the weight of load-bearing walls. The simplest inexpensive structures are frame, panel or plank. It is better not to use drywall in an unheated building - it quickly absorbs moisture and will warp over time.

In such a house it is better to use ordinary partitions made of boards, then covered with shingles and plastered with lime. Any types of partitions are installed only on the subfloor. After installing the frame, which is attached to the frames to the floor and ceiling, heat insulators are laid inside, with the help of which heat is more evenly distributed indoors.

When constructing walls from timber or logs, the arrangement of partitions begins only after the wood has settled. The timber will settle for at least 6 months, but it will take at least a year for the logs to dry out. Glued laminated timber almost does not shrink, so the installation of partitions can begin immediately after construction is completed.

Facade finishing

Facade plaster

Cinder block houses or cinder-cast structures can simply be plastered and then painted facade paint. Frame houses they are covered with wood, finished with siding, block house (log panels) or thermal panels. It is also possible to plaster them.

If you have available funds, you can clad your country house with a ventilated facade with porcelain tiles or bricks. However, the cost of these materials cannot be called democratic.

Insulation

If a heated building is not insulated sufficiently, this will lead not only to increased costs for coal or gas, but also to the appearance of condensation in the premises due to high temperature differences. Protecting the building from temperature changes and excess moisture by installing insulation will significantly extend its service life.

It is better to insulate a building only from the facade side, so that the dew point (the temperature at which water vapor turns into water) does not move inside the building. Insulation will be required as a foundation, a ceiling above the basement (between joists or under a screed), attic floor, and the walls themselves.

Can be used as a heat insulator inexpensive foam plastic, expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, sawdust or expanded clay. The last two are used as foundation insulation and attic backfill. Extruded polystyrene foam, resistant to rotting, can be used both for thermal insulation of walls and insulation of the foundation of a house.

To insulate the walls, a frame is prepared, between which waterproofing and a layer of insulation are laid. It is recommended to install a film on top of the heat insulator to serve as a wind barrier. Next, the frame is covered with any finishing material.

A country house for those who like to relax on a summer cottage is often necessary not only for short-term seasonal residence, but also for a longer period.

Therefore, when choosing buildings on a summer cottage, you need to carefully read all modern offers in the construction market, think about the material and functional purpose future home.

It is necessary to immediately decide what communications will be needed in the house. It depends on how much time you plan to spend at the dacha.

Country house project

Typical projects

Offer construction companies. The projects are universal, they are completed on a turnkey basis and have all the necessary drawings. The risks of construction according to standard projects are minimal, and the cost is acceptable.

Individual projects

They are ordered from developers or architects if the layout, exterior and interior of the house must be unique. Such a project will be completely exclusive and designed for the customer. It will cost more and take longer to develop.

Building material for a summer residence

Wood is the leader in the market of building materials for country houses. Behind it comes brick, stone and foam block. Rounding out the list of the most popular materials are frame products. Let's look at their advantages and disadvantages.

Foam blocks

Quite a young material that is used for suburban construction not so long ago. Such houses are considered durable and comfortable to live in.

The cladding of such houses is done with decorative panels, which gives the dacha a solid and attractive appearance.

Advantages of the material:

• affordable price;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• comfortable microclimate;
• resistance to climate conditions;
• the load of the building on the foundation is low.

Disadvantages of the material:

• the need for additional costs for the construction of the foundation;
• construction time is increased compared to the frame option.

Stone or brick

A good option for building a house for year-round residence. Caring for such a building will not require much investment, and it will serve for many years.

Advantages of the material:

• moisture resistance, resistance to temperature changes;
• excellent sound insulation qualities, heat capacity;
• durability, reliability and strength of the house.

Disadvantages for country house construction:

• the high cost of working with stone and brick;
• the cost of the material itself;
• building even a small country house made of stone will take a lot of time;
• the need to build a monolithic foundation;
• increased mass of walls.

A cottage made of stone or brick is suitable only for those who are planning a long-term vacation.

Tree

The most popular material for the construction of country houses. They remain cozy and environmentally friendly. Small one-story buildings are most often built of wood. You can also find houses with attics made of wood (as well as full-fledged two-story buildings).

Advantages of wooden houses:

• environmental friendliness, thermal insulation, sound insulation;
• pile-screw foundation on any soil;
• price-quality ratio (building a summer house from wood is cheaper than from stone);
• short construction time.

A wooden house is perfect for those who are building a summer house for a short stay (for example, for a weekend).

Flaws:

• fire danger (it is necessary to specially process the material, which deprives it of its environmental properties);
• Fungus may appear on the tree (or rotting may begin).

Foundations for wooden houses can be monolithic or columnar piles.

Frame country houses

A successful solution for country house construction in many respects. A frame house is erected very quickly.

It is enough to choose a project for such a house from construction company, and in a few days this house will be produced in production. It will be brought to the site in the form of a construction kit and erected in a matter of days.

The foundation for frame houses is made of piles, due to the fact that the weight of the house is small. Pile foundation It also requires very little time and materials. Which is very beneficial for those who do not want to invest huge sums in the construction of a country house.

Frame houses look very decent, and in terms of final cost they are much cheaper than building a wooden or brick house.

Flaws:

Frame house is only suitable for seasonal residence(during the warm season). The production technology was developed for regions with a warmer climate than in Russia.

Some people use insulation during construction, but the heat loss of the house will still be large. And the costs of heating such a house in winter will be significant.

In summer there is intense heat in frame house It is also poorly tolerated. The walls become very hot and the rooms become very hot. Air conditioning needs to be installed.

Operating a house will not be as cheap as building it. Wall insulation does not allow the walls to let air into the rooms.

Photos of beautiful country houses

Since you are reading this article, holidays outside the city on your own site are attractive to you. A country house is, of course, necessary for this. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. Not only for the sake of saving Money and their labor, but also the land area. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands as simply, quickly, easily and cheaper as possible. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allow you to wait out long periods of bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and that the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.

Where to start

The first question that needs to be resolved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where is already known, the site cannot be transported anywhere. Based on the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, developed or selected for it finished project, and then - estimates, purchases, and off to work. We will start with the choice of material.

What to build from?

Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: building them yourself is very difficult. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal soil movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a full-buried strip foundation (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the base of the strip). A fully buried foundation must be able to withstand its own shrinkage from at least the end of summer until the full warmth of spring next year. Insulated slab foundations require the same endurance, for example. Swedish stove. There is, however, a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but even the timber or log structure itself must be allowed to shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles/sq. m) and difficult to build independently.

The same situation occurs with brick houses And . Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be advisable only on very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built with 2 floors; brick and timber technologies allow an untrained, but attentive and careful builder to build a 2-story house. Examples of layout of compact 2-story brick and timber house are given in the figure:

Note: It is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. Building a country house from foam/gas blocks makes sense if the country house is visited all year round - no need additional insulation and there will be less heating costs.

The simplest and quick ways building a small house - assembly from a ready-made panel house kit or structural insulated panels (SIP). A prefabricated panel house 20x20 feet (6x6 m) is erected within a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental abilities trained according to the instructions for the kit. It’s no joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles/sq. m. Without foundation.

A house made of SIP will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rub./sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held together with locks between the panels. For a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have quite a lot of internal partitions made from the same SIPs with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.

So, we come to the conclusion: to build a country house quickly, simply and inexpensively from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.

Project

It is better to build an inexpensive garden and/or compact country house according to a standard design; For significant construction details, see below. Ready free project It’s quite easy to find a country house using any search engine. Or for a fee - detailed standard project garden house for 300 rub. can actually be found on the relevant sites.

How to choose easier and cheaper

On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. The square-cube law, well known in technology (and stubbornly unnoticed by amateurs), applies here. It’s easy to test it experimentally: glue together cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple both. The third factor is the soil’s own cohesion is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.

Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in the plan fits into a circle of a certain diameter, then ordinary soils garden plots it can be built on a shallow foundation, which is much faster, simpler and cheaper. Which circle should the project fit into? wooden house in plan, so that it can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including medium heaving, shown in Fig. Here everything depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more “square” the house is, the better it copes with seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tram” houses for narrow areas, without looking closely, on a foundation of normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1

Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected to its structure. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or an articulated connection with it are excluded from the house plan projection.

Foundation

We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. Let us only remind you that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils except non-heaving soils, you need to lay a normally buried TISE strip or foundation. A slab foundation with insulation “settles” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to crack. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, you can lay a foundation using geoscrews (see below) with a steel grillage.

Non-buried

The easiest and cheapest way to assemble a non-buried foundation for a compact country house is a columnar one from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. The blocks are laid out on cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; the top ones cross the bottom ones. Thus, the column is 400x400 mm in plan.

The pits for the posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15+15 cm is made up of an anti-heavy sand and crushed stone cushion. There is no point in deepening the pillars of blocks by more than 20 cm: the ligation of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the forces of frost heaving will tear the pillars. The number of rows of blocks in a column is made more than 2, if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. The maintenance break after installing a columnar foundation made of blocks is required to be minimal, for hardening of the masonry mortar, this is approx. a week.

Recessed

The buried foundation of a compact house is often made, following the example of large buildings, on bored piles in soft roofing felt formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are placed on the shell of the piles, which makes it possible to compensate for the difference in height along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast, small-scale construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - they must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring.

Note: There is no point in laying a TISE foundation for a light compact house - the “caps” of TISE piles work normally in the ground only under sufficient weight load from the building. Of small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one can create one.

Geoscrews

The best option for a buried foundation for a compact house is with geoscrews. Geoscrews are a type of shortened screw piles specifically for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, geoscrews are not designed for muddy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a homemade strip foundation, because... Geoscrews themselves are not cheap, but for a small house this is not so bad, since few screws are required.

A geoscrew for low- and medium-density soils, by the principle of holding it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a confirmed furniture screw and also looks like it in appearance, see fig.:

The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Both geoscrews can be used on soils up to excessive heaving. You can either lay the wooden bottom frame of a building on the heads of geoscrews or mount a steel grillage. For information on how to build a wooden house on screw piles, see, for example. track. video:

Video: installing a frame house

The advantages of geoscrews for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are enormous:

• No preliminary geological surveys are required.
• Geoscrews can be wrapped in fairly heavily clogged soil: a cobblestone or piece of concrete the size of a child’s head will push the screw to the side.
• There is no need for special equipment or access roads for it: 2 people use a crowbar or a homemade collar from a piece of pipe to wrap up to 10 or more geoscrews in a day.
• No preparatory excavation work is required: the screw is simply placed with the end into the hole on the bayonet of the shovel and twisted. It is leveled vertically when the pointed tip enters the ground by a third to half.
• Screwed geoscrews can be turned/unscrewed to align the heads to the horizon.
• There is no need for a technical break to settle the foundation - construction can continue as soon as the last screw is screwed in.
• An incorrectly screwed screw can be unscrewed and screwed back in close to the previous hole.

Note: If you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them on whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil.

What kind of house should I build?

Let's get to the point: what kind of simple country house will be cheaper and more likely to be built? In order of increasing cost, complexity and construction time, as well as potential aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are arranged as follows. way:

1. House from a military kung;
2. Hut house;
3. Bungalow house;
4. Frame house.

When there is no time for excesses

KUNG is an abbreviation for Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Dimensions. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War, and thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung cabin from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and placing it on posts, concrete supports for grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone cushion (so that weeds do not sprout and annoying living creatures do not appear). A foundation for a kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle.

The kung as a country house has only one drawback: its utilitarian appearance, which any design efforts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages:

• Excellent insulation - a stove the size of a desktop computer system unit heats the kung from the most severe frost.
• The price is more than an order of magnitude less than that of a construction shed, a residential container or a section of a modular country house.
• High resistance to external influences - warehouses, change houses and utility rooms made of kungs have stood practically without maintenance for more than 50 years, and they are not in sight of demolition.
• Fire safety is built into the design.
• Built-in electrical wiring or channels for it, electrical input panel (ISB) and terminals for grounding connections.
• Wide possibilities for redevelopment, internal equipment and finishing (see below).
• No legislation or installation permission is required. Bought - brought - installed - live.

It is better to look for a kung for a country house from a ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 car (see figure): they have a flat floor and it is easier to place them on posts due to the small or absence of recesses for the wheel arches. You need 6 pillars (you can use dry stacked brick ones): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and can be converted into housing more easily than Ural and KAMAZ ones.

Note: Don’t take non-standardized “booths” from ancient ZiSs and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and the insulation is no good.

The width of the kung is standard according to zero vehicle dimensions (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. If your site is long and narrow, then a “tram” house made from a kung on it is practically the only way to do without laying a buried foundation.

For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-compartment kung (double-compartment), on the left in Fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. The kung cabin (top left and right in the figure) already provides normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung cabin from old communication hardware. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some effort, such a kung turns out to be not a house, but a piece of candy, below right in the figure. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance) compartment for the autonomous power supply unit (BEA): in its place is a mini-toilet with a shower. By removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get space for a gas stove with 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself is purposely designed for gardening tools, planting material, etc., with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, communication equipment shelters have side windows, which cannot be said about all military shelters.

Chalet

Chalet means hut, but what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. The country hut house is almost as durable as a kung, because... its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small hut house (up to approximately 4x6 m) can be placed on a shallow foundation on any soil except excessively heaving soil. A hut house requires 1.5-2 times less materials than a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimal set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage, inherited from its ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any decoration into any landscape, see fig.:

There are few disadvantages to the chalet house. The hut house retains all its advantages up to a size of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small hut house, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that’s all.

In America and Canada, single-occupancy hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal tenants and sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare owner, who remembers), left and center in the figure:

Construction of a single house hut - shelter and a 3-bed country house

But the hut house, only 3x3 m in plan, can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. Heating costs in both cases are small, because the relative heat loss area of ​​the hut house is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your summer cottage is habitable from the first warmth of spring until the winter cold, then a hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung.

How to build a chalet

The construction of a hut house measuring up to 6x4 m in plan is carried out step by step. in this way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins):

1. Lay a columnar or pile screw (on geoscrews) foundation;
2. The load-bearing A-shaped frames of the frame are assembled from boards (130...150)x40 lying on the plaza - any sufficiently hard, flat surface;
3. The assembled frames are stacked in order to check for distortion and size; for a hut house this is extremely important;
4. The calibrated frames are transferred one by one to the foundation and laid flat with the sole in place;
5. Each frame transferred to the foundation is lifted with a rope, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary jibs;
6. When all the frames are in place as they should, fix the frame in the corners - at the bottom with cornice boards (see below), at the top with a ridge purlin, also made of a pair of boards;
7. When building a house more than 3x4 m, the frame is reinforced with additional longitudinal ties;
8. At the level of the tie (transverse tie of the A-frame) the ceiling is assembled; without it the house will not be strong;
9. The floor of the house is assembled using the usual technology for wooden houses;
10. The wings of the frame are sheathed with 40 mm boards lengthwise, preferably tongue-and-groove;
11. Assemble window and door frames;
12. Facades are sheathed;
13. Carry out the remaining required construction work.

The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason that few people build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw further.”

Drawings of a hut house 3x3 m for two or three are given in the figure:

The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, like the intermediate frames, is 150x75 timber. Firstly, on facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tie (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge girder, a ridge beam of the same cross-section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and top strapping (longitudinal stiffening links) made of the same timber. Longitudinal and transverse connections are connected by a half-tree insert. Those. Using the example of a 4x6 m house, you can already see how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house increase with its size.

Note: On the bottom screed, 2 more ends of the 100x75 timber are visible on the sides of the window. The internal partitions rest on them. The door frame on the other façade extends up to the tightening and is made of 75x150 timber; The lower screed of this facade is split. If the house does not have a basement, the window frame is made in a similar way.

Bungalows and... bungalows

In the general concept, a bungalow is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, which is structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, the “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because... spacious, well ventilated, not overheated by the Sun, and the construction is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive.

However, little is known to construction specialists outside the tropics these days that bungalows are also a type of construction technology. The hut-bungalows built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the forest wilds of Russia, the northern United States and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still suitable for habitation. The house, built using bungalow technology, is easily recognizable by its 2-layer cladding made of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right.

The bungalow as a wooden construction technology combines elements of half-timbered and frame structures with working cladding. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a trace. advantages:

• In wooded areas with developed logging, it is cheaper, despite the increased consumption of material for cladding, because unseasoned low-quality materials are suitable for it (cladding), including unedged boards and waste in the form of slabs.
• The bungalow house is quite simple and can be built on a shallow foundation on soils up to and including highly heaving.
• In damp places, houses built using bungalow technology are very durable due to the fact that the paths of penetration of atmospheric moisture into the skin are minimized: the upper ends of the boards are covered with roof overhangs.

The disadvantages of construction using bungalow technology are, firstly, increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of the openings: the outer cladding boards need to be cut in place to fit the platbands, otherwise pockets will form - moisture traps.

Bungalow like a bungalow

Bungalows as shelter houses are generally more popular than hut houses due to their better habitability. In a bungalow, you don’t have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat lunch.

The structure of a bungalow-type shelter house is shown in the figure:

Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelter

The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, a non-buried strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If it is columnar or pile, then you need 12 supports: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical post) on the others. This house can be extended up to 3-3.5 m in length. Then, if you do not extend it accordingly. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies.

A “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation measuring 4x5.875 m in plan is, of course, more complex (see next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of “real” recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev This option also works well on heavily heaving soils.

Bungalow as technology

The main features of the bungalow as a construction technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from timber from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is provided by cladding made of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use because... Under each joint of the sheets, backing posts and lengths are needed.

Bungalow construction diagrams are shown in the figure:

The rafter floor structures are not shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled by cutting into half a tree and into a tenon, and the tenons of the racks are located on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the corner reinforcement diagram in the center of Fig. The use of steel corners, overlays and other innovations in this case is unacceptable! You have to pay for the Old Testament “stupidity” with labor.

The sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (convexities of the annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: internal inward, external outward. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of the “humps” it will split and the whole house will weaken.

All boards are attached to the frame along the short (end) edges with triplets (not pairs!) of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also attached along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or in a snake (zigzag) with a pitch of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along the short edges with pairs of fasteners; along the long ones - in a row with the same step.

Assembling the bungalow's load-bearing frame is a very important stage of work. And labor-intensive, because You can’t hammer in staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were installed using wedging. The frame of the house is assembled using bungalow technology. order:

1. Assemble the lower frame on the foundation;
2. The racks are installed, aligned vertically and fixed with temporary braces;
3. Assemble the upper frame on the racks;
4. Drill pioneer holes for the staples (marking with the staples themselves at an angle of 45 degrees). The depth of the pioneer holes is 2/3 of the length of the staple bar, the diameter is 3/4 of the diameter of the bar;
5. Choose grooves for the shelves of brackets, because staples must be recessed into the wood;
6. The staples are fastened with a hammer;
7. Once again check the verticality of the racks and install the upper steel fasteners;
8. They hammer in the staples with a sledgehammer;
9. Produce wall cladding;
10. Remove the temporary braces and carry out the rest of the work.

Frames

A frame mini-house does not have any special features compared to a large residential one; a diagram of its device is shown in Fig.:

The construction procedure is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a “classic” frame house 6x4 m:

Video: 4x6 country house using frame technology

The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut and bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take up time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: its simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig.

Also, the design of a frame house is very flexible. On the one hand, it forgives the rather serious mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative amateurs some scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about building a small frame shelter house:

Video: DIY mini frame house

To this story we only need to add that the viewers’ comments about insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive” the dew point out once and for all, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used that do not allow condensation to form in the insulation layer and further inside: EPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) .

In conclusion about the roof

The roof beam (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a peculiarity. It is determined by its small size, and, as a consequence, by the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the lack of a load-bearing partition (internal capital wall) in it (excuse the bureaucracy). To support the latter, a fully connected foundation is required; at a minimum - a tape of normal depth.

Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof crossbar) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b):

In the first, the truss rack rests on a transverse beam-screed, and in the layered version on a load-bearing partition; split screed. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like based on your skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum standard size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge beams - 100x75 and mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame mauerlat, the timber of the top frame can serve directly.