Do-it-yourself ventilation in a wooden bathhouse diagram. Proper ventilation in the bathhouse: main points. General rules when planning bath ventilation

Ventilation is needed in all rooms; the rules for its installation are prescribed in SNiP 41–01–2003. But they apply only to residential, public and industrial premises in which conditions favorable for humans are created. It is taken into account that people stay in such premises for a long period of time and the same standard microclimate and air quality indicators must be created for everyone.

Baths have completely different tasks; they create a microclimate that is stressful for the body - high temperatures (in Russian baths up to +60°C, in saunas more than +100°C) and high air humidity (up to 90%). Moreover, in one room, temperature and humidity indicators should vary within wide limits depending on the wishes of those being washed. Changes in microclimate parameters should be carried out as quickly as possible, and the achieved values ​​should be maintained for a relatively long period of time. And still very important difference baths from ordinary premises. If, secondly, people have the opportunity to “protect themselves” from temporary inconveniences with clothing, then this is impossible to do in bathhouses.

Illustration of the microclimate in a steam room - high temperature and hot steam

Based on these features, the ventilation of baths must fulfill individual tasks, and this affects the principles of its design and operating features. Ventilation in a bathhouse can be natural or forced; each type has its own characteristics, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In this article we will talk in detail about only one type of ventilation – natural.

We have already found out the tasks of bathhouse ventilation and how it differs from the ventilation of other rooms, now it’s time to tell you how they can be achieved. The methods depend on the architectural features of the room and your preferences.

First you need to remember your physics lessons from school. Ventilation of rooms occurs due to the difference in air density outside and indoors. Heated air has less weight and rises, cold air is heavier and sinks down, so-called convection occurs. Accordingly, in order for the room to be ventilated, hot air must be able to leave and cold air must be able to enter; inlet and outlet openings are needed. These can be ordinary cracks in windows and doors or specially made ventilation holes.

On the Internet you can find statements that these holes must have the same dimensions, otherwise the ventilation does not work or “blows in the wrong direction.” Only those who skipped classes can say that. The ratio of the sizes of air inlet and outlet does not affect the performance of ventilation in any way.

Square ventilation window

If the outlet, for example, can release only 1 m3 of warm air per hour, then exactly the same amount of cold air will enter the room, no matter what the size of the inlet, and vice versa. And the effect reverse thrust occurs in the case of wind pressure or in the complete absence of fresh air. In the first case, a strong external wind “drives” the air into the room; in the second case, after the air leaves the room, a small vacuum is formed, which draws the air back into the room. This is not to say that ventilation is completely absent, it just becomes cyclical and works on a “back and forth” principle. Of course, the efficiency of such ventilation approaches zero; the air moves a little only near the holes.

And these phenomena are clear, now let’s look at specific types natural ventilation baths Let's start with the simplest ones and end with the more complex ones.

The simplest, but also the least effective method ventilation.

In the steam room, a door opens or a door and a window open at the same time - ventilation occurs quickly, but not as we would like. Why?

Steam is removed from the bath, and this has negative consequences.

1. Firstly, if you open the door, the steam does not escape to the street, but to other rooms. The humidity in them increases sharply, the heated steam immediately condenses on all surfaces. There is no need to explain what can happen next.

   

2. Secondly. A decrease in temperature in a steam room is only a subjective phenomenon. There are two concepts of temperature - actual and perceived. Actual temperature is a physical indicator, perceived temperature is subjective. We feel the same actual temperature differently depending on surrounding factors. High humidity“increases” the temperature we feel, strong wind lowers. So, through simple ventilation it is possible to remove only excess steam, and the actual air temperature returns to its previous values ​​within a few minutes.

   

3. Thirdly, ventilation will never be able to establish stable microclimate indicators in the room. As soon as the doors close, the temperature and humidity rise sharply; as soon as the doors open, the humidity and temperature also drop sharply.

   

The result is that ventilation is not a ventilation method that should be used constantly. This is a last resort; it is recommended to resort to it only in case of urgent need.

This method can be considered more successful, but it is only possible in one case - a firebox sauna stove located in the steam room. Warm air is removed through the firebox and chimney; entry can occur through floor cracks, a slightly open window or door. Sometimes at the bottom door leaf a special hole is made, to improve the design it is covered with a decorative lattice.

Advantages of ventilating a bathhouse with a stove.

1. Ease of execution. There is no need to make special vents in the log house. Any additional hole in a wooden wall does not improve its performance, and this is putting it mildly. If mistakes were made during the process of making vents and installing decorative grilles, then the risk of moisture getting on the crowns of the log house increases. It will take a very long time for moisture to dry out, and prolonged exposure of wooden structures in a wet state has an extremely negative effect on their strength and durability of use.

   

2. Possibility of adjusting the frequency of air exchange in the room. Ventilation is “controlled” by a damper and stove doors. You need to speed it up - the gate and the firebox door open all the way, the temperature has become favorable - the gate closes a little. You can easily find the optimal position of the damper, the microclimate in the steam room is stabilized, the ventilation rate of the room has stable values.

   

   Furnace with gate - photo

3. Versatility of use. It doesn’t matter what materials the bathhouse is built from, what its dimensions and architectural features are. In addition, this system allows for simple upgrades. For example, it is worth making an inlet hole behind the stove and the air entering the bathhouse will be slightly warmed up. The chimney still serves as the hood.

   

There are, of course, disadvantages, let’s name the main ones.

1. Insufficient performance. It will not be possible to quickly change the temperature or humidity in the steam room.
2. Presence of “dead” zones. Air mixing throughout the entire volume does not occur; zones with drafts and zones with standing air appear.
3. Dependence of draft (ventilation) on weather conditions.

Despite some disadvantages, this method of ventilation in combination with ordinary ventilation is very often used in “budget” options for baths.

For a budget steam room the best option– oven ventilation and ventilation

Ventilating a bathhouse with a stove - diagram

The optimal ventilation device for most baths.

Advantages:

Important. It is advisable to consider the ventilation device before starting the construction of the bathhouse. Solve issues with the specific placement of holes and their overall dimensions. We advise you to make the height of the vents no more than the height of the beam, and adjust the holes to make them longer.

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Why is it best to provide ventilation at the construction stage?

1. Firstly, making holes in an already finished structure is much more physically difficult.

   

   Drilling a hole in a log house is a labor-intensive process

2. Secondly, there is a risk that the hole will hit the dowel, especially for the upper outlet vent. It is located in close proximity to the mauerlats of the rafter system, and they are fixed more often than conventional crowns and only metal rods or pieces of building reinforcement are used as dowels.

   

3. Thirdly, if you make a hole with a metal crown, then the expensive tool will fail after “meeting” the dowel. And it will not always be possible to “reanimate” a chisel or chisel after attempts to cut through metal.

   

4. Fourthly, the metal dowel in this place is almost impossible to cut off. You can’t get close with a grinder, you can’t use a hacksaw for metal, and you wouldn’t wish it on your enemy to cut with a file. We'll have to blow the air in another place. And who needs an extra hole in the wall of the bathhouse or an increase in its size? Moreover, if you have already made holes in the external and internal cladding according to its “planned” dimensions and bought ventilation grilles. A “meeting” with a metal dowel is a very unpleasant situation from all points of view.

Ventilation duct placement options and sizes

There are several general rules for all natural ventilation products. First, in order to improve the efficiency of the system, the cold air supply openings should be located below about 20 centimeters from the floor level. Exit openings should be located at the maximum height - under the ceiling or on the ceiling. Secondly, the mixing of different layers of air in the volume of the steam room is improved if the inlet and outlet openings are located at the maximum distance from each other, preferably along the diagonal of the room. In what places is it recommended to install them?

It can be done at the bottom of the steam room door leaf.

Advantages - there is no need to make an extra hole in the wall of the bathhouse. This saves time and effort; in addition, it eliminates the possibility of the lower crowns of the log house getting wet. Disadvantage - in most cases, the doors are located opposite the shelves for bathing procedures; cold air flows appear, creating a number of inconveniences.

Under the shelf.

Advantages - the inlet is invisible, the flow of cold air mixes well with warm air throughout the entire volume. Disadvantage: Access to the grille for opening/closing the damper becomes more difficult. If during washing you can regulate the intensity of ventilation only using the top grill, then after ventilating the baths you need to close both. This means that after some time you will have to visit the steam room specifically to close the vent.

Important. The dampers on the ventilation openings must be installed, two per each - outside and inside the steam room. After ventilation, both baths should be closed. Choose a technology for installing grilles that guarantees complete tightness of the external dampers. It is strictly forbidden for atmospheric moisture to enter the crowns of the log house.

Behind the stove.

Inlet opening behind the stove - diagram

Most best option. Cold air from the street hits the stove, warms up a little and breaks into several separate flows with low speed. Drafts are completely eliminated. Disadvantages - it is not always possible to install decorative grilles in this place. If the stove is close to the wall, then the high temperature negatively affects plastic or wooden materials decorative lattice. In addition, according to safety regulations, such places behind the stove must be insulated with sheet iron using thermal insulation.

No option is suitable for your specific case? No problem, make a hole where you see fit.

As for the outlet, there are fewer problems with its placement. Our only advice is don’t do it in the ceiling. Over-humidified air should not be vented into the attic; it will cause constant humidification. wooden elements rafter system, and its premature repair always costs a pretty penny. To protect the rafters, wet air will have to be taken to the roof. Why make an additional hole in the covering, why worsen the tightness of the roof covering with your own hands and at your own expense?

Opening sizes for natural ventilation

The technology for calculating the size of ventilation holes is specified in the current regulations. Determining the size of vents for natural ventilation is much more difficult than for forced ventilation - there are too many factors beyond the control of people. The main performance parameter of the ventilation system is the frequency of air changes. For residential premises it is regulated minimum value multiplicity, taking into account both the temperature in the rooms and the temperature outside. The temperature in residential premises fluctuates within small limits, this simplifies the work of designers.

In steam rooms the situation is much more complicated - temperature and humidity indicators vary within very wide limits. In addition, the speed of air arrival/entry into different situations may differ significantly. Such preconditions make it almost impossible to accurately calculate the optimal air exchange rate for natural ventilation.

Some bathhouse owners are afraid of suffocating during bathing procedures due to lack of oxygen. We bring to their attention that one cubic meter of air is enough for one person to breathe for an hour and a half. Calculate the cubic capacity of the steam room and find out how long you can safely steam; the count goes into tens of hours.

Carbon monoxide can cause problems. If you close the stove gate until the wood is completely burned out, then no amount of ventilation will help. It can ventilate the room only if carbon monoxide no longer enters. Heat the stove correctly and never burn out, do not rely in vain on ventilation.

How to make a ventilation hole in the wall of a bathhouse

For example, we will take the most difficult option– the external and internal cladding of the walls of the bathhouse has already been done. The hole can be round, square or rectangular.

Step 1. Mark the location of the vent on the inner lining of the steam room. Before starting work, you must not only know the location of the hole, but also its size and configuration. It is advisable that air ducts and decorative grilles be available; this will make it possible to accurately control the size of the opening and not do unnecessary work.

Step 2. Prepare a long wood drill; the working length should exceed the thickness of the bathhouse wall together with the outer and inner cladding. In the center of the drawn outline of the vent, drill a through hole from inside the steam room. The drill outlet outside the steam room will be the center of the air flow. Draw around it the dimensions of the hole, similarly made in the steam room.

Step 3. Remove the internal and external cladding elements in the outline. If your bathhouse is lined with natural clapboard on both sides, then the process is simplified, just carefully cut out the boards. If metal sheets were used on the outside, use a grinder.

Step 4. Inspect carefully bearing structures casings, if they are damaged, repair them. Drill through holes along the contour of the ventilation duct as close to each other as possible, constantly check where they exit from outside walls. The drill must always be perpendicular to the plane. Drill the same holes over the entire area of ​​the vent; the more there are, the easier it is to make a hole in the wall.

Video - How to drill a large hole in wood

Step 5. Next you need to work with a chisel and chisel, gradually removing the wooden bridges between the holes. It will not be possible to completely hollow out a hole on one side of the wall - it is too difficult to reach with a tool. Do half the work from the inside of the steam room, and the other half from the outside. There is no need to carefully level the surfaces of the holes, the main thing is that the air duct fits easily into the channel.

The most difficult physical work is done, you can begin installing the air duct and grilles. Don't be discouraged if it takes a lot of time to make holes; even experienced builders can rarely prepare more than two holes per day.

How to install ducts and grilles

For air ducts, you can use galvanized or plastic pipes, the length is determined by the length of the passage. Select the grille according to the size of the opening; to regulate the ventilation efficiency, it must have dampers.

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air duct

Step 1. Insulate the planes of the hole with mineral wool and carefully insert the air duct into place. In order to firmly fix the pipe in the desired position, use foam. Excess foam that appears should be cut off after hardening.

Step 2. If there is waterproofing between the sheathing and the wall, treat the gap between the wall and the hole in the sheathing with foam, it will seal the cut and prevent water from getting into the wooden structures.

Step 3. Fasten the gratings; the method of fastening depends on the material of the wall cladding and sheathing.

We fix the ventilation grilles. In the photo there is a grate on the outside of the bathhouse

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mineral wool

Check the operation of the ventilation using a smoldering firebrand or other source of smoke. Bring it to the inlet and observe how and at what speed the air currents move in the steam room.

The photo shows the air supply valve and checking its functionality

Experiment with natural ventilation at different damper positions, from maximum to minimum.

Video - Installation of the KPV 125 valve

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with a Termofor stove-conditioner

State standards for room ventilation are regulated by SNiP 41–01–2003; the document establishes the minimum rate of air exchange in rooms depending on their purpose and features of use. In residential premises, ventilation must perform two tasks - to provide favorable indicators of the percentage of oxygen in the air and to remove exhaust gases.

SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. File for download

For a bathhouse, ventilation tasks become more complicated; it must additionally remove moist air as quickly as possible (providing rapid drying of wooden structures) and regulate the temperature in the steam room. There are times when it is necessary to quickly reduce the temperature in the steam room before small children, the elderly or large people undergo procedures. The stove continues to give off heat for a long time, it takes a very long time to wait until the bathhouse cools down on its own. With the help of room ventilation you can quickly install desired temperature and maintain it within specified limits the entire time people stay in it.

Ventilation valve prices

ventilation valves

What types of ventilation are there and how to calculate them

Ventilation can only exist in cases where there is an influx of fresh air into the room and an outflow of used air. You can often come across the concepts of “supply” or “exhaust” ventilation. These are not entirely correct concepts; it cannot be only an inflow or only exhaust ventilation, it is always only flow-exhaust. Why are these concepts used? Thus, it is emphasized that the influx or exhaust of exhaust air is carried out in a forced way, and, accordingly, the removal or supply of fresh air occurs naturally.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

When calculating the parameters of ventilation systems, the initial data takes into account the volume and purpose of the premises, the presence of special air conditions in them, the presence or likelihood of the presence of carbon monoxide or other chemical compounds harmful to health. Based on these data, government regulations set the frequency of air replacement per hour; it can vary from 1÷2 to ten or more.

Next, engineers determine the parameters and location of the channels to ensure the necessary air intake and removal, taking into account weather conditions and climate zone. If natural ventilation cannot provide the required frequency of air changes, then forced systems are used that supply/extract air with electric fans. Baths have their own characteristics for each type of ventilation; let’s look at them in more detail.

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air handling unit

General rules for ventilation in a bathhouse

The principles of ventilation in a bathhouse largely depend on the architectural features of its design. If the floors have slots for draining water, then supply air can also be supplied through these same slots; there is no need to make a special hole.

Quite often they are installed in the bathhouse small windows– when opened, they “turn” into exhaust openings. In addition, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, the room can be ventilated even easier - open the firebox and, by changing the position of the damper, adjust the frequency of air changes.

Photo - stove firebox and open door for room ventilation

This is the most simple options steam room (by the way, both the most effective and low-cost), but there are cases when the furnace firebox is located in another room, there is no window, and the floors are solid without cracks. It is this kind of bathhouse that we will focus on in our article. Why do you need ventilation in the bathhouse?

1. For better air mixing throughout the entire volume. Natural convection of air masses is not able to equalize the air temperature in height; the difference in values ​​under the ceiling and near the floor can reach tens of degrees. This negatively affects the comfort of acceptance water procedures.
2. To bring in fresh air. If one person is steaming in the steam room, and the stay time does not exceed 20–30 minutes, then the oxygen concentration in the air will not have time to drop to critical values. And if several people steam at the same time in a steam room for a long time, then the flow of fresh air becomes mandatory.

Quite often, developers go to two extremes: in order to save heat, they abandon ventilation altogether or make it too strong and unregulated. Both extremes have negative consequences; ventilation should not be neglected, it is cheap, and the positive effect is very impressive. But it should be done correctly, taking into account as much as possible the characteristics of the premises, temperature requirements in the steam room, materials for making walls and cladding.

In the case of a complete lack of ventilation, the risks of oxygen starvation and, if the furnace firebox is located directly in the steam room, increase in carbon monoxide poisoning. In the case of strong unregulated ventilation, the heating time increases significantly, warm air quickly removed from the premises. But this is not all the problems - the rapid removal of warm air automatically causes an equally rapid influx of fresh air - the floors will always be very cold, and this increases the risk of contracting colds.

Uncontrolled ventilation can lead to cold floors

The flow of fresh air into the steam room is arranged in two places: behind the stove or under the sun loungers.

There are many diagrams of air movement on the Internet, most of them were made by amateurs, you should not pay attention to them. Fulfill only two conditions: air flow at the bottom, exhaust at the top, placement of ducts diagonally in the room.

This is quite enough to ensure normal air circulation and mixing. Everything else is just speculation; it can only confuse inexperienced developers, significantly complicate the ventilation system, making it expensive and unreliable. There are options with two different-level exhaust valves, with two supply valves, etc. The holes for air removal are located at different heights.

One right under the ceiling, used only for complete ventilation of the bath after finishing the water procedures. The third is made 30÷40 centimeters below the first and is used during washing. Some craftsmen connect them together with internal air ducts, install several control dampers, etc. We assure you that these complications do not have any visible effect on the comfort of staying in the steam room.

A few words should be said about the ventilation ducts in the bathhouse; they are often suggested to be used in steam rooms. In large buildings, ventilation ducts serve to connect several various rooms to the general ventilation system, it does not matter which one - natural or forced. This is completely justified from both technological and economic points of view.

What other rooms can be connected? ventilation ducts to the steam room? Weird question. Then, why make complex channels under the wall sheathing? Isn't it easier to make ordinary holes in the walls and insert ordinary pieces of pipes and grilles with elementary valves into them? Of course, we will tell you about a real, effective, simple and cheap way to install ventilation; we will not lay any ducts anywhere. This universal option, is perfect for both “budget” and expensive exclusive doubles.

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PVC air vent

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Natural ventilation of the bath

The most accepted option for most baths, minimal in cost and safety and quite effective. The specific locations of ventilation openings should be taken into account the size of the rooms, the location of shelves, the stove and the material of the building. The general rule is that the openings should be located at different heights, as a rule, the inlet (supply) is 20 cm from the floor and the outlet (exhaust) is 20÷30 cm from the ceiling. When choosing holes, you need to consider where the holes will be located on the external walls. It is advisable that they do not stand out too much on the façade walls.

The dimensions of the holes are approximately 300÷400 cm2, it is better to make them larger rather than smaller. In case of too rapid exchange of air, leading to a decrease in temperature in the steam room, the channels should be covered with control dampers. To improve the appearance, it is better to use decorative grilles; they can be purchased in specialized stores or made independently.

We wrote more about this type of ventilation in the article “. We'll tell you how to organize natural ventilation, how to calculate and make ventilation holes.

The ventilation system is somewhat complicated and installation of electrical equipment is required. Another problem is related to the microclimate in the steam room. There, high temperature and air humidity are the main enemies of any electrical equipment. Fans must have reliable protection of the housing from moisture; during connection, the recommendations of the PUE must be strictly followed. And in order to comply, you need to know them.

Forced ventilation - elements

The advantages of forced ventilation are that the rate of air change in the room is significantly accelerated and the control parameters are expanded. Natural ventilation is very dependent on weather conditions, and in some cases it can become ineffective. Especially if the wind is directed at right angles to the exhaust vent. Forced ventilation works with the same effectiveness in any weather and regardless of the direction and strength of the wind.

How to calculate forced ventilation in a bathhouse and what type of ventilation it is? How to choose fans? We answered all these questions in the article “. There are also detailed step-by-step instructions for installing ventilation and advice from professionals.

How to make ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands

Initial data. Architectural features baths do not provide for the flow of air through floor cracks, doors, windows or furnace fireboxes. It is necessary to make holes for both air inlet and outlet. Internal and outer skin There are no walls, the bathhouse is built from sawn timber.

Step 1. Decide on the location of the input and output channels.

We have already mentioned that it is better to place the inlet channel near the stove at a distance of about 20 centimeters from the floor level. The outlet channel is diagonally under the ceiling. This position of the inlet and outlet openings will ensure the distribution of air flows throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, the incoming air will not cool the flooring. Channels should be easily accessible. There are recommendations to make an outlet hole in the ceiling. We are against such a solution; humid air will certainly cause great damage to the entire rafter system.

Step 2. Purchase or make your own grilles and valves.

They can be various sizes and geometric shapes: round, square or rectangular. At the same time, take into account the materials of future cladding of external and interior walls, think about how the decorative grilles will be attached to them.

Important. Be sure to install grilles with adjustable clearances; only they can ensure smooth adjustment of the frequency of air changes in the room.

And one more thing - the holes on the outside of the bath should also be closed. Moreover, the closure should be as airtight as possible, preventing moisture from rain or snow from getting on the crowns of the log house.

Step 3. Make holes in the walls.

The most labor-intensive operation will have to be done manually. You need to pre-drill holes around the perimeter in the marked places. The closer they are to each other, the easier it is to hollow out the wood later. When the holes are drilled, take a chisel, chisel and hammer in your hands and begin to destroy the beams remaining between the holes. The holes for ventilation should be made 1-2 cm larger around the perimeter than the pipe being inserted. The fact is that this pipe then needs to be insulated to prevent the appearance of condensation on wooden structures.

Use only a sharp chisel and a chisel - you will have to cut the timber across the grain, this is quite difficult. If the thickness of the beam is 20 centimeters, then it is better to make half the depth of the hole from the inside of the bathhouse, and the other half from the outside. If you have extensive experience using a gasoline saw, then you can cut out the hole. But we immediately warn you that working with a gasoline saw in such conditions is very dangerous. You will have to cut with the end of the bar; when you grab the tree with the lower part of the chain, the saw will be pulled out of your hands. This method of using a saw is strictly prohibited by safety regulations, remember this.

If there is a need to separate the inlet hole in the wall and in the bathhouse, then buy a pipe with an elbow. It is advisable not to use round pipes, and rectangular, they occupy less space under the lining of the internal walls of the steam room.

Be sure to seal the joints between the elbow and the pipe with silicone and wrap it with tape for reliability.

Metallized adhesive tape

Step 4. Place foil or plastic film and mineral wool around the perimeter of the holes; the layer of wool should be dense, without gaps. It will not be possible to make the edges of the hole absolutely even; be careful that the waterproofing is not damaged by the sharp protrusions of the timber.

Step 5. Insert the pipes into the holes in the log house. They should fit in with little effort, quite tightly. In order to increase the reliability of sealing and fastening, be sure to use foam around the perimeter of the hole and pipe. Polyurethane foam eliminates all invisible gaps in thermal insulation between the pipe and the wall and firmly fixes it in the desired position.

We recommend foaming the holes and after covering the walls, the foam will eliminate the gaps between the wall and the vapor barrier. As the foam expands, the vapor barrier will press tightly around the uneven hole, all possible small damage will be automatically closed.

The exhaust pipe may not be insulated; warm air escapes through it. But we advise you to do all the operations for her, just in case. Firstly, you will lose a little time and money. Secondly, you will provide additional and reliable protection against penetration wooden structures atmospheric moisture.

Once both holes are prepared, you can begin covering the walls and installing decorative grilles with adjustable throughput parameters.

Important. When installing steam room ventilation, we strongly advise you to ventilate the space between the wall cladding and aluminum foil. The work is carried out according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Ventilation should be either constantly closed (during water procedures) or constantly open (during ventilating the bath). Using foil as a vapor barrier for walls has many benefits positive aspects. But there is one problem - the difficulty of removing condensation between the sheathing and insulation. An ordinary hole solves all problems and completely eliminates damage to wood.

Prices for hoods for baths

heat-resistant fan

Video - DIY ventilation

How to make a hole in a log house using a crown

If you do not want to make holes for ventilation manually, you can drill them with a special metal crown. They are sold in stores and are inexpensive. The only problem is that the crown requires a powerful low-speed drill or a hand-held drilling machine; ordinary drills can quickly fail due to the heavy load. Another limitation is that the maximum diameter of crowns is rarely more than 120 mm. But for most baths, small volumes of this size are sufficient.

Step 1. Select a bit of the appropriate diameter and secure it in the chuck. Mark the drilling location.

Step 2. To ease the cutting force, be sure to lubricate the bit with machine oil. Lubrication must be repeated periodically. Once the bit is about two-thirds deep, stop drilling, remove the bit and re-lubricate its internal and external surfaces.

Step 3. Mark the center of the hole with any thin drill bit. Insert the crown into the shallow hole and begin drilling the beam.

Step 4. Drill as far as the crown height allows. Carefully monitor the operation of the electric tool and do not allow heavy loads. Loads are regulated by the force of pressing the crown against the beam.

Step 5. The crown no longer works - take it out and gradually remove the cut wood with a chisel or chisel. It can be removed quickly, start gradually chipping away the holes in the corners. Do not cut the log across the grain with a chisel; chop it only along the grain, this makes it much easier to do the job.

Repeat the operations until the hole becomes through. If the timber is so thick that the drill cannot get through one side of it, move to the other. To do this, you need to find the center of the hole already made as accurately as possible. The crown has its own centering drill, but its length may not always be enough to reach reverse side. You'll have to find the center yourself. To do this, install a thin wood drill in the drill, insert it into the existing hole from center drill crowns and very carefully make a through hole. The more accurately you drill the center, the easier and faster it will be to work on the other side of the wall.

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hole drill bit for wood

Video - How to drill a hole with a crown

Heated sauna ventilation

Enough original way ventilation devices, not only fresh air is supplied to the bathhouse, it is immediately heated. This is very important in winter; it not only improves the comfort of your stay, but also speeds up the heating of the premises and saves firewood.

Air is taken from the bottom of the bath and, with the help of electric fans, is supplied to the air intake duct.

The stove has a metal chimney, a special screen is installed around the chimney, and air from the air duct enters the screen channels. The screen performs two functions: it protects the limbs from burns and serves as a radiator to heat the air coming from the air duct. The heated air exits the screen into the steam room.

If desired, you can improve the design a little. Place a tee with a damper on the air duct. This will allow you to take in both air from the bathhouse and from the street - the possibilities for regulating the microclimate parameters in the room are significantly expanded.

Video - Ventilation in a steam room with heated air

The ventilation system in the steam room is one of the most important components of comfortable water procedures and a pleasant pastime. If in a living space its main task is to provide the space with fresh air, then in a bathhouse it not only removes excess moisture, but also regulates the temperature. In some cases, it may be necessary to quickly cool the steam room (if the procedures are performed by overweight people or children). How to make ventilation in a bathhouse so that it sets the required temperature in a few minutes?

Today’s article is devoted to such an important issue.

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Air exchange device for a bath: rules and recommendations

The ventilation device in the bathhouse depends on the design features and architecture of the building. No special hole is required in cases where there are small gaps in the floor for drainage of liquid. Obviously, they will be enough to supply fresh air.

Most steam rooms are equipped with small windows. When open, they are delegated the role of a simple air exchange device. An effective way to change air is to adjust the position of the damper. But this rule is only valid in cases where the stove firebox is located in a steam room.

Experts state that the listed options are the most affordable and effective for organizing a ventilation system in a bathhouse. But what to do in cases where air does not penetrate from the underground, due to the absence of cracks, and the firebox is in next room? I would like to dwell on such pairs in more detail. So, is ventilation needed in the steam room and why exactly?

1. 1. For high-quality connection of air flows. Natural convection is not able to balance the temperature regime over the entire area. The walls have one meaning, the ceiling has another, and the floor has yet another. The difference can reach 10-20 °C. In such conditions it is not very pleasant to take any water procedures.
2. 2. To ensure the influx of masses from outside. For a sauna with only 1 person for no longer than 25 minutes, forced ventilation is not required. There is enough oxygen supply. In other cases, fresh air is an important component.

The most difficult cases arise when careless developers have an irresistible desire to realize the impossible. For some, the ventilation of the steam room is so powerful that the room simply does not warm up. Others do not have a corresponding system at all. There can be only one piece of advice here – don’t go to extremes!

Properly implemented ventilation in a Russian bathhouse, which takes into account regulatory requirements and the characteristics of each room, is inexpensive, and its benefits are enormous. The main task is to take into account all the nuances: wall thickness, material, cladding, etc.

If air exchange is not provided in principle, there is a high risk of oxygen starvation. In combination with high humidity and temperature, people can even be poisoned by gases. Excessively productive can contribute to longer heating of the room. Fresh air is directed inside very quickly, the floor remains constantly cold.

Bath ventilation



Where is the air exchange system installed?

Experts say that air supply solutions are installed in 2 zones: under wooden deck chairs or behind the base of the stove. Let's consider these options in more detail.

The World Wide Web contains a huge number of schemes for the movement of air masses, but in most cases they are implemented by amateurs and do not deserve any attention. Professionals recommend fulfilling just a couple of conditions:

• the hood is done exclusively at the top;
• air intake holes - in the lower part of the walls;
• ventilation ducts are located diagonally.

Such solutions will be sufficient for good oxygen circulation. Any other reasoning on this matter is the fruit of a sick imagination, nothing more. The corresponding valves can be located at different levels, in fact, as well as the holes for removing air masses.

Ventilation of the bathhouse in the form of a small hole under the ceiling is used exclusively after completion of water procedures, when it is necessary to completely ventilate the room. As for the second opening, it is advisable to arrange it 40 cm lower. The optimal period of use is during the washing process.

Advice! Some novice builders, answering the question of how to make ventilation in a steam room, advise connecting adjacent openings of the system into separate ones. internal air ducts. Then 2-3 valves are installed. This complication does not in any way improve comfort when taking water procedures. Don't experiment - simplicity is everything!

A well-organized air exchange system for a bathhouse is the simplest, in which there is no common channels under the casing. The optimal solution to the problem is to do it for each of the walls located in different rooms several holes and place small tubular elements in them. Grill valves can be used as a plug. This option is successfully used both in the case of a traditional Russian bath and exclusive steam rooms.



Natural air exchange

One of the most available options on the organization of ventilation in log baths. The main advantages are efficiency, safety, simplicity and minimal cost. The corresponding holes are placed taking into account the location of the stove, the material from which the building is made, and the number of shelves.

Proper ventilation will help general recommendation– the recesses should be located at different heights – it is enough to raise the inlet opening from the floor only 0.2 m, and the outlet – 0.25 m below the ceiling. When choosing, it is necessary to take into account their position not only inside the building, but also near the external walls. We do not recommend disturbing the façade composition of the property.

As for the size of the holes for natural ventilation in the bathhouse, they are chosen in the range from 300 to 400 cm2. If in doubt specific meaning, it is better to stay with the larger option. An incorrect system can lead to excessively rapid air exchange, and as a result, cooling in the steam room. In this case, you cannot do without dampers.

Advice! Ventilation in a steam room or bath will look aesthetically pleasing if the openings of the system are covered with decorative grilles.



Forced ventilation

Forced ventilation in a bathhouse is more difficult from the point of view of independent implementation, since it involves the installation of special electrical equipment. Often, competent implementation requires drawings, individual calculations of the power of the exhaust fan, intake, etc. During the installation process, you will also have to solve the problem associated with the special microclimate of the steam room.

Electrical equipment is incompatible with high air humidity, hard temperature conditions. For these purposes, it is better to use fans installed in a protected case. To make the ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands as high-quality and safe as possible, we recommend that you study the relevant instructions, regulations and recommendations of the PUE. Preliminary theoretical preparation is the key to successful endeavors.

Forced ventilation of the steam room allows you to flexibly regulate the input parameters of the rate of renewal of air masses in the room. It does not depend on environment, weather. Floor ventilation in the bathhouse using the forced principle has also proven itself to be excellent. It remains effective regardless of the strength and direction of the wind.

Option for forced ventilation in a bathhouse (video)

Ventilation in the bath

We make the system ourselves

So, main question– ventilation in the bathhouse with your own hands – how to implement it, what should it be like? First of all, you shouldn’t rush and cut from the shoulder. Secondly, carefully study the source data. In most buildings, holes and cracks in the floor, doors and windows are simply not provided. This is a typical situation for a modern Russian bath.

The corresponding holes must be made by hand. Do-it-yourself ventilation in a sauna should include recesses for the intake and removal of air masses. A building made according to traditional standards does not include external and interior lining, since the main building material sawn timber protrudes.

Step 1: Determine the areas where the input and output channels will be located

We have already talked about how to make ventilation in a sauna . If you forgot, we remind you: from the floor at a height of 0.2 m - entrance, under the ceiling diagonally - exit. This is an effective way to distribute air masses inside a Russian bath. Special attention You should pay attention to the availability of channels.

Ventilation in a bathhouse is not only comfort, but also an urgent necessity. It is needed both during and after bath procedures:

• In the process it is important so that no one gets burned. Danger of poisoning carbon monoxide always exists - this is the result of incomplete combustion of fuel. Therefore, ventilation is necessary for the safety of people in the bathhouse.
• Besides the air that is inhaled and exhaled becomes “waste”, and it must be removed and replaced with a new one with a higher proportion of oxygen.
• Adjust the temperature Monitoring the condition of people can also be done with the help of ventilation, especially when this needs to be done urgently.
• Any stove runs on oxygen (combustion is oxidation), so it also needs ventilation. And with the right device, you can also get fuel economy.
• And finally, drying after, on which the durability of the structure, especially its wooden parts, directly depends. Ventilation can be good prevention of fungi and rotting.

At the same time, bath ventilation is quite complex and varied in design. Of course, the issue can be reduced to financial investments, but in reality you just need a good ventilation specialist who will find the optimal solution in each specific case. We will look at all the capabilities and features of the device.

Ventilation system in the bathhouse: what could it be like?

Ventilation systems in baths are divided according to several parameters:

• forced or natural;
• exhaust, supply or supply and exhaust;
• local or general exchange.

Let us explain that forced differs from natural in the presence of fans that force air in or out; local differs from general ventilation in its local character, for example, a chimney above the stove is local ventilation, and vents are part of general ventilation.

As for the supply, exhaust and their combinations, these are designations of what air is directed where: the exhaust drives exhaust air outside, the supply drives fresh air inside, and their combination creates a balanced air exchange inside the room.

These are general terms for any ventilation, but our task is to consider a bathhouse, which has its own specifics. We advise you to familiarize yourself with (8 types) along the way.

Useful video

Watch a short video as one of the options for organizing ventilation in a bathhouse:

Natural ventilation in the bath

It works on the principles of physics, which say that heating makes air lighter and causes it to rise. And an increase in the volume of cold air accelerates the movement of hot air. Knowing about this property, you don’t have to install any appliances at all, just ventilation holes, the location of which will make some of them supply air, and others exhaust.

There is also a stove in the bathhouse, and this is a very favorable circumstance for directing air circulation. If the natural ventilation inlet is located near the floor next to the ash pan, then the stove itself will draw in fresh air, without any fan. Raising the finished floor slightly above the hole under the firebox also improves traction.

The exhaust hole is usually made on the side opposite the wall with the supply hole, but this is not the only option.

Forced ventilation

If you install fans in the same holes, then you don’t have to worry about calmness or other weather conditions that have a bad effect on air circulation in the bathhouse.

In principle, there is no big difference between natural and forced ventilation in the design itself; it is just a matter of which holes the fans are in. Because you can’t install them everywhere, enhancing only the exhaust or only the inflow. But by creating a large difference between the inflow and outflow, we change the pressure in the room. This is easily detected by the way the door slams. The task is to create a balance between outflow and inflow, and the air during bath procedures should circulate slowly, without causing a draft. And when drying, a draft is only beneficial.

IMPORTANT! The direction in which the fan blows air depends on the location of its blades, so it is important to ensure that there is no exhaust fan and vice versa.

Ventilation device in the bath: principles of operation

Bathhouse ventilation can be divided into permanently functioning (roof, foundation, wall) and periodically functioning, during bathing procedures and stove operation. Both are parts of a single ventilation system, which is laid during construction.

The principle of operation of the ventilation system: displacing exhaust air with fresh air. In the most primitive case, two holes are enough for this, but in practice the directions of flows also matter, so the number of supply and exhaust openings can be increased, and they themselves are equipped with dampers, which are a means of controlling flows, their volumes and speed.

Regardless of the location, the supply air is always made lower than the exhaust. Sometimes air flow is provided through the blinds at the bottom of the door to the steam room. But there is one rule: Where the air comes from is where it must be given. If we take it from the premises, we need to return not to the street, but also to the premises. Otherwise it won't work.

Calculating the area of ​​ventilation windows is quite simple: we must proceed from the fact that each cubic meter of room volume requires a window with an area of ​​24 cm². Under no circumstances should the windows be made directly opposite each other at the same height.

1. When the bathhouse warms up, the vents in the foundation close and the dampers in the steam room move back.
2. During vaping, the windows open slightly as needed.
3. After completing the procedures, the bathhouse is completely ventilated.

There are also 10+ different schemes prepared to help you.

Ventilation in the bathhouse

Bastu-type ventilation, named after the convection Swedish baths, is becoming increasingly popular in Russian baths. It is simple to do and highly effective.

The air flow under the furnace is carried out using ventilation pipe from the street. In this case, you definitely need a damper to block it.

For air outflow, a box is installed, which starts 20-30 cm from the floor and goes outside. The location of the box is diagonal from the stove. The material is best stainless steel. The box must also overlap 100%.

So, it works as follows: if a certain volume enters a room, then the corresponding volume will be pushed out of there if there is an exit. A working furnace actively sucks in cold air from supply air duct. Part of it is used in combustion (and leaves through the chimney), and part rises upward, heating up along the way from the stove. Excess volume in parallel begins to escape through the box, which takes air from the floor. Therefore, fresh heated air ends up in the breathing zone, and exhaust air ends up below and leaves.

Video

Watch how Bastu is explained and done in these videos:

Bastu ventilation is “turned on” and “off” by manipulating the valves. At the same time, the furnace must work, because it is the heat pump responsible for air circulation. If the stove goes out, the ventilation in the bathhouse will not work.

Bastu ventilation is ideally used in a sauna, where you need to change the air 6-8 times per hour. But in a Russian bath, the conditions are somewhat different, and although basta can be performed in it, there are restrictions on its use.

Ventilation bastu in a Russian bath

A Russian bath is not too high a temperature and an abundance of steam. In such conditions Basta ventilation in a Russian bath should not be “turned on” while steaming.

But you can safely start it at the very beginning, at the stage of warming up the steam room. In this case, the heating time will increase, but it will be uniform. If you leave the valves open, the basta will dry out and overheat the steam room. You can try to “turn on” basta at the last stage soaring - the air will be light, hot, you can breathe freely. The perfect end to your vaping experience.

That's it in the Russian bathhouse also useful for drying after procedures- she copes with this perfectly and there will be no odors or mold with such drying.

Floor ventilation in the bathhouse

The floor in the bathhouse needs to be completely dry after the procedures. The first condition for this will be the organization of proper drainage, with a slope that will drain water into the sewer. Of course, there are several options for flooring.

For pouring (wet) floors, ventilation is especially important. Therefore, gaps between the boards, reaching a width of up to 1 cm, are needed not only for water drainage, but also for drying the boards. And the discovery of vents in the foundation, which we will discuss below, will help with this.

A dry floor does not have any gaps between the boards, because it is installed from tongue-and-groove boards. This means that the principle of its ventilation is somewhat different. You will have to dry from above using burst ventilation (this means opening all windows and doors) and the system provided in the bathhouse, for example, forced supply and exhaust.

Useful video

Look at what dampness can do to a dry floor, even if it is covered with yacht varnish:

The ventilation riser in the washing room will be discussed below, but it also affects floor ventilation.

And the floor is also well ventilated during operation of the stove, if (as already mentioned) you raise its level above the ash pit and leave small gaps between the boards in the floor itself.

Bathhouse foundation ventilation

Actually, it all starts with it, because it is installed when laying the foundation. To do this, cut pieces of asbestos-cement pipes are taken, filled with sand and laid in this form among the reinforcement, fastened with knitting wire between the rods at a height of 5 to 12 cm above the ground level. After stripping, the sand is removed.

There can be two such holes in total, laid on opposite sides base However, in reality, it is necessary to take into account a number of different factors, on which both the number of holes and their diameter ultimately depend. By the way, the usual diameter is 11 cm.

Useful video

See what the lack of ventilation for the floor and foundation can lead to:

Before designing ventilation, the following are taken into account:

• distance of the bathhouse from the reservoir;
• location (high or low);
• surrounded by other buildings on all sides;
• wind rose of this area;
• bath area.

It is clear that if the bathhouse is in a lowland or surrounded by solid buildings, it is necessary to do more holes and even from all sides. You can also increase the diameter, but install a louvered grille or a damper.

CAREFULLY! Rodents can enter unprotected vents, so it is also recommended to tighten them with a metal mesh.

The plugged holes are usually left closed during procedures, but are opened for drying.

Ventilation of different rooms of the bath:

Due to differences in temperature and humidity conditions of each bath rooms, ventilation in them is organized differently.

car washes

The washing compartment is the wettest, so it is recommended to equip it with a ventilation riser, which is located in the corner, under the floor. This is an asbestos-cement pipe, which is then brought to the roof and is equipped with a deflector on top. Ventilation in the sink occurs due to the pressure difference between the room and the end of the pipe above the roof; the air tends outward, taking with it excess moisture.

The reason why it is necessary to vent it to the roof is simple: if the humid air is immediately expelled to the street, then the wall where this hole will be located will quickly deteriorate from the outside.

steam rooms

attic

Attic ventilation is a special song. This is done at the stage of roof installation.

1- ceiling 2- soffits 3- roof ridge

IMPORTANT! The opinion that a window in the gable is enough to ventilate an attic is incorrect. These windows will not replace supply and exhaust system in the roof.

Supply openings are made under the roof canopy (between the roof sheathing and the upper part of the wall, where the rafters rest on the power plate), and exhaust openings are made at the ridge. There should be holes on the gables, but they are small and very high.

It is also important to take into account the ratio between the area of ​​the supply and exhaust openings on one side and the total area of ​​the attic. It is optimal that the first ones are 1/500 of the second. The ratio between the area of ​​the supply and exhaust is not 50 to 50; the exhaust should be 10-15% larger in area than the supply.

This system is suitable for those baths whose attic is cold. And there are also bathhouses with attics. There, ventilation is also done at a time when the roof is still open from the attic.

To ventilate the under-roof space (between the roofing material and the membrane), either natural or forced ventilation can be used. But for both to function, aerators and soffits are needed.

Aerators are installed either on the roof slope or on the ridge (these are the most effective). They serve for extraction. And the soffits are responsible for air flow. These are siding panels for covering roof overhangs, some of which must be perforated. The ratio of the area of ​​the ventilation holes to the ventilated area is the same as mentioned above 1/500.

IMPORTANT! The efficiency of aerators will be higher if you install only conventional or only ridge aerators.

Fans for the under-roof space are used as supply fans. Particular attention is paid to the wiring so that it does not cause a fire.

baths in the basement or ground floor of the house

Some owners country houses allocates a basement for a bathhouse or ground floor. A similar arrangement of hot and wet room presents special requirements to ventilation, on which the durability of the whole house now rests.

Note that the redevelopment of a former residential or utility room also includes the redevelopment of ventilation. In general, this is more expensive than a bath included in the design of a house under construction.

One way or another, you need don't forget about ventilation gap between walls and insulation. This will protect against damage to the insulation by condensation. But the moisture in the air corridor must also go somewhere. Therefore, for basement and basement baths, professionally made supply and exhaust ventilation is recommended, and it is better not natural, but forced. Both are accompanied by the installation of a base deflector.

The location of basement ventilation depends on the specifics of the project and will not be given here. It is also possible to install a special dehumidifier.

A good option would be to choose bastu ventilation - it is not so expensive, but very effective. The bastu device was discussed above.

shower

If there is a shower stall or open shower in the bathhouse, it is worth installing forced ventilation nearby, which will speed up the drying process.

If we assume that the air flow is ensured by the existing supply openings located in the washing room and other rooms, then you can install the fan only on the exhaust opening, which is located near the shower. (You can do the same if the bathhouse has a bathroom.)

dressing room

The dressing room suffers from condensation due to the temperature difference between it and the hot rooms of the bathhouse. That's why ventilation is necessary in it just like everywhere else in the bathhouse. One vent is located at the bottom, the other at the top. The lower one is responsible for the inflow of air, the upper one for its outflow. Installation of forced ventilation is not prohibited. In addition, you can ventilate the dressing room using the door and (if there is) a window.

In contact with

Bath procedures are healthy and relaxing. However, without good air ventilation in the steam room, staying in it can result in problems. In addition, if wooden shelves and walls are not regularly dried, they will not last long.

Wood will inevitably begin to deteriorate due to the abundance of moisture. However, making effective ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands is not so difficult. There are several schemes for its arrangement in this room. You can always choose the most optimal option for independent implementation.

Main types of ventilation for baths

The classic Russian bathhouse is a small room. Not all types of ventilation can be implemented in it. Often, complex air exchange systems are not necessary in this case. And most of the owners country cottages and those who build a steam room with their own hands prefer to look for the simplest solutions.

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into:

• natural;
• forced (supply, exhaust and combined).

Air distribution in a steam room with proper ventilation

In the first case, ventilation is arranged so that air exchange processes in the room occur due to natural draft and convection. In the second, the air is forced to move around the room using a fan installed in the exhaust, supply, or both directions at once.

To organize ventilation in the bathhouse, you can use all these methods. However, the natural option is more preferable. It is cheap, energy independent and does not require supervision of electrical equipment. But in some cases it is not enough.

Air flow during natural ventilation

For example, it was decided to build a steam room in the house itself, and not as a separate building on the street. Then only exhaust or supply ventilation can help. It is not recommended to install a combined supply and exhaust analogue with a recuperator or electric heater in a bathhouse due to the high cost and complexity of installation. And in a steam room, this option with additional air heating is simply not needed.

Air circulation in the bath depending on the location of the stove

Ventilation schemes for steam rooms and baths

It doesn’t matter whether there is a fan in the air duct or not. Ventilation in a bathhouse is always done so that there are two ventilation ducts (windows or openings to the street). One input goes to the inflow, and the second output goes to the exhaust. Moreover, ideally they should be located on opposite walls and have doors, valves or latches to adjust the draft.

On the one hand, proper ventilation in the steam room should ensure a constant flow of oxygen inside, and on the other hand, it should not draw heat out too quickly. If the air exchange is too intense, then you won’t have enough firewood for such a bathhouse. All heated air will immediately escape outside.

Temperature distribution in a steam room with ventilation

The wood stove and electric heater continuously burn oxygen during operation. And the ventilation in the bathhouse must also continuously replace it, so that those who come to take a steam bath do not feel discomfort. That's why bathhouses ventilation windows and must have valves that will allow you to regulate the volume of air supply and exhaust.

The most effective schemes for placing ventilation windows in a bathhouse are (direction “inflow” - “exhaust”):

1. On the wall near the stove - on the opposite wall above the shelf.
2. On the wall near the stove - through the cracks in the floor and further into the vent of the dressing room.
3. On the wall under the shelf - into the chimney.
4. Through an outlet in the foundation and cracks in the floor - on the wall under the ceiling.

Types of hoods

In the first case, cold air heats up near the stove and goes up to the opposite wall, where the shelves are located. When implementing the second option for bath ventilation, the heated air masses first rise to the ceiling, and then, due to draft, they lower and are pulled out through the cracks between the floor boards.

In the third scheme, a small pocket with standing hot air is created above the shelf. But such ventilation still draws oxygen into the steam bath in sufficient quantities.

The fourth option involves the presence of vents in the underground. It is more difficult to perform it in an already built bathhouse with your own hands. In the flooded concrete foundation Punching holes for ventilation is a problematic task. But with him floor boards from below the ground will always dry quickly after bath procedures and will last longer.

Methods for arranging ventilation in the bathhouse

The entrance window should be located from the floor at a height of 20–40 cm, and the exit window should be 15–20 cm below the ceiling. It is best if both are the same in size. And both should have blinds or a shutter.

Exhaust and forced ventilation usually done with duct fan, which is mounted directly into the air duct. You should choose it for a bath with increased protection from steam and high temperature. All mechanical and electrical elements This fan must have improved waterproofing. IP protection here should be set to at least “54”.

You can always ventilate a steam room by simply opening the doors and windows. You don't even need vents for this. So the internal hot air is literally replaced by cold external air in just a couple of minutes.

Circulation of hot air in the steam room

However, it is difficult to call proper ventilation through open doors. In this case, all the steam ends up in the dressing room, where it instantly turns into condensation on the walls and interior items. This type of “volley” ventilation should be resorted to only in extreme situations.

Important nuances of do-it-yourself sauna ventilation

If everything is done correctly, then you need to plan ventilation in the bathhouse at the design stage. In a completed building, it is more difficult to make ventilation holes even in the wood than at the same time as laying the frame. The area of ​​the vent should be about 200–300 square meters. cm. This is more than enough for most small-sized pairs.

Ventilation diagram in the bathhouse

Another important point- dowels in the walls, fastening logs together. If they are metal, then when creating vents it is important not to run into these rods.

It is better to generally move the ventilation holes away from them as far as possible to the side. It’s still not possible to completely get rid of moisture, so the metal fasteners should be kept away from it.

Steam room plan with ventilation

It is not recommended to place vents on one wall. In this case, the ventilation will be such that the air flow will immediately go from bottom to top, without circulating through the steam room. The holes should be made in height no more than the cross-section of the log (timber). It is easier to select the required opening area by increasing its length. You cannot build an vent between two logs. This is more difficult to perform and can lead to damage when the frame settles.

Forced ventilation in the bathhouse

Steam room ventilation air duct outlets with external wall must be protected from precipitation. If water gets inside the holes, it will end up inside the wooden walls. And for a long time after this, the wood is unlikely to stand unrotten.

When making ventilation in a Russian wooden bathhouse, the outlet should be led into its wall, and not into the ceiling. The steam from the bath should go straight out into the street. He has nothing to do in the attic. There wooden rafters, for which excess moisture is contraindicated.