Insulation of an aerated concrete house from the outside with foam plastic. Insulation of aerated concrete house, choice of facade material and method of insulation. At what stage of construction is it appropriate to do this?

Trying to build a house from modern building materials with, a person naturally strives to save on thermal insulation. Indeed, in theory, the thermal insulation will be carried out by the materials themselves.

For example, it is now very common to build from aerated concrete material. Aerated concrete is considered a porous and fairly durable material from which low-rise houses can be built.

Many people think that insulation is not required for a house made of aerated concrete. But it's not. Moreover, reviews from users of such houses, on the contrary, confirm the fact that aerated concrete walls need insulation. It is about the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete that we will now talk about.

1 Features and purpose

To begin with, let's figure out what this aerated concrete is, and why it is so popular with. Aerated concrete was invented not so long ago, if you look at more ancient materials such as bricks. However, in our area it has been actively used in construction for decades.

Aerated concrete is produced from a binder, fillers, additives from industrial waste and special chemicals.

Powder and aluminum powder are used as chemical additives. They are foam sample converters.

That is, when in contact with water, carbon dioxide begins to be released from a powder or powder. At the same time, the binders work to the full, so the block filled with gas becomes cellular and freezes in the same state.

The result is the same aerated concrete. It is relatively light, but at the same time quite durable material. From it you can assemble houses that have a height of up to 10 meters.

As a rule, houses up to 3 floors in height are assembled from aerated concrete without any restrictions. Everything above is equipped with reinforcing belts. It is impossible to build high-rise houses from aerated concrete. Also, this material is great for arranging baths, small buildings, etc.

2 The choice of material for insulation

Insulation for aerated concrete also plays a huge role. You can use different models of insulation, but not all of them are well suited for certain tasks.

So, the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete from the outside and from the inside is most often performed:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• Foamed heaters such as penoizol or polyurethane foam.

It is most convenient to insulate houses made of aerated concrete with mineral wool. It has a relatively low weight high level vapor permeability, does not burn in fire. Rodents will not start in it either, but for a house made of aerated concrete this is a big plus.

It is better not to insulate a gas concrete bath with simple mineral wool, as it reacts poorly to contact with moisture.

But with mineral wool from well-known manufacturers, the insulation of baths and other similar buildings, albeit with apprehension, can be carried out. And all because branded mineral wool insulation have much higher quality.

They are generally hydrophobic, and do not absorb moisture at all. The only serious drawback of mineral wool is its price.

Not everyone can afford to take enough insulation to completely finish a two-story house from the outside or from the inside.

Expanded polystyrene, if you look without asking the price, it turns out much better than mineral wool. According to its characteristics, expanded polystyrene is almost in no way inferior to it, and its price is much lower.

But it is worth taking a closer look and taking into account the special aerated concrete house, as the situation will immediately change. The main problem with polystyrene is its poor vapor permeability. The use of such materials will shift the dew point inside the wall, causing the blocks to slowly collapse.

You can mitigate these unpleasant consequences by using a vapor barrier film or something similar, but you are unlikely to be able to completely get rid of the problem. Expanded polystyrene can also become a home for rodents. They eat it with amazing speed.

As you can see, you can not use foam, but with great care. Sometimes you can combine foam and mineral wool. For example, foam parts of the house where there is minimal steam release. But rooms with a large selection such as a kitchen or bathroom should be insulated with mineral wool.

If you still cannot afford to work with mineral heaters, then foam plastic finishing is enough for you. It's still better than being cold in winter. Yes, and working with foam is very convenient. Just use it better from the inside, and do it wisely.

Polyurethane foam is also well suited for wall insulation. It is a foamy material that can be sprayed with special tools. It perfectly insulates the surface of the walls, moderately passes steam and is not afraid of moisture.

The only problem is its price. Polyurethane foam is very expensive. Moreover, both the material itself and its application will be expensive. That is why these solutions are practically not used in civil individual construction.

2.1 Wall insulation technology

As you yourself understand, it is possible to insulate a house made of aerated concrete both from the inside and outside.

Internal wall insulation is easier to perform. Such work is always easier to do, because you do not have to assemble large structures, take care of additional waterproofing and do a bunch of additional things.

Do-it-yourself interior decoration can be done by any man who has ever encountered construction work.

Of course, the first couple of hours will be spent on stabilization and stuffing your hands, but then work will go like clockwork. And the area inside is smaller than outside. This means that the possibility of making a mistake is reduced.

Insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is best done according to wet technology. That is, use dowels and a variety of fasteners to a minimum. Aerated concrete does not like such things very much, like.

If it is still necessary to resort to the use of dowels, then buy a special mount with a chemical base. It does not destroy the supporting structure of the block so much.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the wall, remove all unnecessary elements.
2. We prime the base.
3. We apply a solution to the insulation plates, glue them to the wall.
4. We cover the cracks with a solution, blow it with foam or glue it.
5. We apply a thin layer of plaster to the insulation. If mineral wool is used, then a mesh is also suitable.
6. We are finishing the wall.

When finishing from the inside, it is advisable to use only the wet method and not overdo it with plaster.

Moreover, we fix the plaster with the help of a grid. This is very important point. Without the use of a grid, cracks may develop over time on the wall. As a finish, you can choose any options you like.

Vapor barrier here is better not to use or put directly under the plaster. This essentially eliminates the advantages that the vapor permeability of the insulation and the aerated concrete itself gives.

The house will become a little stuffier and more time will have to be devoted to airing or installing a reliable ventilation system. But if there is no other way out, then it is better to ventilate the room than to suffer from a shifted dew point and all the consequences that will appear in the end.

External wall insulation is a much more complex process. Here it is better to involve specialists who have special equipment. You can work with both foam and mineral wool. However, using mineral wool, as noted above, will be more useful.

Stages of work:

1. We prepare the surface.
2. We mount ebbs, limiting elements, basement profiles, etc.
3. We prime and clean the base. We remove all unnecessary elements, calculate the insulation scheme.
4. We lay the insulation boards in a certain order. You can lay it on a layer of glue for insulation.
5. Additionally, we use special chemical dowels to fix the plates. dowel in without fail required for mineral wool. But they will not be superfluous if ordinary polystyrene foam is used.
6. We lay the waterproofing film.
7. We plaster the surface.
8. We apply the finish on the surface of the facade.

Today I want to talk about the insulation of aerated concrete outside. In order to perform high-quality thermal insulation of walls made of cellular concrete, it is necessary to choose the right material. Ideally, the heat-insulating layer should work in tandem with aerated concrete, leveling the shortcomings and emphasizing the advantages of the latter.

Therefore, the article is entirely devoted to the question of how to insulate aerated concrete from the outside.

The need for insulation of aerated concrete and features of the choice of material

Aerated concrete is a common building material that is used for the construction of load-bearing and internal walls of private houses and cottages. It itself has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, therefore it reliably holds thermal energy inside residential areas.

However, often there is still a need for its warming. I will list the most common cases:

1. When constructing load-bearing walls, reinforced concrete reinforcing belts were used to strengthen them. These sections of the enclosing structures become islands of cold, unless, of course, measures are taken for their external insulation.
2. Aerated concrete itself is a porous material, therefore it strongly absorbs water. If the wall surfaces are left unprotected from moisture, they will absorb a lot of liquid, which, when frozen, will quickly lead to the destruction of the building. Wall insulation installed outside will act as protection against getting wet.

1. To strengthen the walls of the house, aerated concrete of increased density (more than D500) is often used. The heat-preserving properties of this material are not enough to act as an independent heat insulator. Such wall blocks require additional insulation.
2. To save money on the purchase of building materials, the walls of the house were built from blocks 300 mm thick. This thickness is not enough to prevent the loss of thermal energy. To make the home energy efficient, you will have to additionally install a heat-insulating layer.
3. When laying the walls, instead of glue for gas blocks, an ordinary cement mortar was used, which has a high thermal conductivity and does not allow laying blocks as provided by the technology.

I note right away that due to the specifics of the material (low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability), it is necessary that the insulation for aerated concrete meet the following requirements:

And, of course, I would give preference to those types of heaters, the fastening of which would be easy to do with my own hands (without the use of special equipment or engineering equipment).

I can say that among the thermal insulation materials on the market there is no one that meets all the requirements for 100%. Therefore, I will dwell on the consideration of those options that I myself used in practice and note whether it is possible to insulate aerated concrete from the outside with one or another heat insulator.

Characteristics of individual heaters for aerated concrete

For thermal insulation of enclosing structures made of cellular concrete, several heaters can be used. I presented the most popular options in the diagram below:

Now let's see which one is better.

Styrofoam

This is perhaps the most popular insulation of all used in private construction. The reason for its success is its low price. Among the thermal insulation materials mentioned here, expanded polystyrene is the cheapest. However, is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with foam plastic? I will describe it to you specifications and then draw the appropriate conclusion.

Heat-preserving properties

The main thing you need to pay attention to is the ability of the material to store thermal energy inside the house, that is, the coefficient of thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam.

This material is somewhat similar to aerated concrete, that is, it consists of air bubbles, the walls of which are made of thin polystyrene. Atmospheric gas does not transmit thermal energy, so the foam can play the role of a heater.

The material has a very low thermal conductivity (λ is in the range from 0.028 to 0.034 W / (m * K) depending on the density of the sheets). Therefore, polystyrene foam can safely insulate aerated concrete walls.

Studies show that for effective work it is enough to fix a layer of polystyrene foam 10 cm thick on the surface of the walls. I had to mount a thicker foam. I described this process in detail in one of the articles on this portal.

Vapor permeability

This section will focus on the ability of expanded polystyrene to pass air through itself during operation. I note right away that the coefficient of vapor permeability of building foam is on average 0.05 mg / (m * h * Pa). Naturally, this is much less than the same indicator for aerated concrete itself (0.11 mg / (m * h * Pa)). However, it is quite enough that the moisture from the enclosing structures comes out and evaporates from the surface of the insulation.

Experience in the operation of houses made of aerated concrete, insulated with foam plastic, shows that its installation on the outer surfaces of the walls does not reduce the life of buildings and does not impair operational properties load-bearing structures. But in order to regulate the level of humidity inside the premises, you will have to design a reliable supply and exhaust ventilation with forced air flow.

Do not confuse block polystyrene with extruded. The latter has a vapor permeability coefficient of 0.01 mg / (m * h * Pa) and is not recommended for thermal insulation of walls made of porous materials. It is more suitable for warming interfloor floors or foundations.

Water absorption

Now consider the ability of expanded polystyrene to absorb liquid. According to this indicator, the insulation is among the leaders, having excellent water-repellent properties. In direct contact with a liquid, the foam absorbs no more than 4% of its own volume, and does so within the first 24 hours, after which the absorbency becomes zero.

The peculiarity of this process is that water penetrates only into the upper layer of the insulation, the cells in which are destroyed during the process of cutting into slabs. It does not seep into the thickness of the material, so the insulation is able to withstand a large number of successive freeze and thaw cycles.

Thus, expanded polystyrene not only does not require additional protection against wetting in the form of a waterproofing membrane, but it itself acts as an excellent barrier that prevents moisture from porous aerated concrete.

Strength

The heat-insulating material used for external insulation of any enclosing structures, including aerated concrete, must withstand significant external mechanical resistance. The possibility of using certain materials for finishing the surface of the facade also depends on the strength.

When choosing, it is important to determine the compressive strength of the foam. So, depending on the density of the insulation at 10% deformation of the sheet surface, it is able to withstand an external force of 5 to 80 Pa.

From this we can make an unambiguous conclusion that the material will withstand the exterior finish with a thin layer of cement mortar without any problems. The latter will protect not only the insulation itself, but also the fragile surface of aerated concrete blocks. That is, the foam, in addition to insulation, will play the role of a protective layer for building envelopes.

The extruded polystyrene foam I mentioned is even more durable, but only certain types of material can be used for wall mounting.

Fortitude

When choosing a material for insulation aerated concrete walls it is important to consider the insulation in terms of its resistance to external biological, chemical and natural factors. Let's consider each of them separately:

1. Chemical resistance. Personally, I really like expanded polystyrene because it does not enter into a chemical reaction with substances used in the manufacture of mortars (alkalis, acids, salts). Therefore, it can be glued with cement or polyurethane adhesive, and then plastered with a reinforcing mixture based on the same binder. However, I do not recommend painting the foam with oil paints, pouring acetone or petroleum products on it. The heater will immediately become unusable.
2. biological stability. Expanded polystyrene is biologically neutral, so the appearance of mold or fungus on its surface can not be feared. And over time, it will not rot, as happens with organic materials. However, inside the foam, rodents are very fond of making moves. Therefore, it is better to plaster the surface of the insulating layer with cement mortar, and protect it from below with special galvanized starting profiles, which are too tough for mice.
3. Impact of natural factors. As for rain and temperature fluctuations, we talked about this. I want to note only the very low resistance of the insulation to ultraviolet radiation. Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside, but serious measures must be taken to protect it from direct sunlight.

Sound absorption

Aerated concrete, having a porous structure, absorbs well sound waves distributed through the air. And foam perfectly copes with structural (impact) noise. Therefore, using them in tandem, you can reliably protect the premises inside the cottage from extraneous sounds.

But it should be noted that absolute silence is unlikely to be achieved. To do this, expanded polystyrene will have to be replaced with materials with a higher sound absorption coefficient.

combustibility

Expanded polystyrene and autoclaved aerated concrete are antagonists in this aspect. If the insulation is very flammable (belongs to category G4), then porous wall blocks do not burn at all (category NG).

However, this does not mean that when using foam plastic for insulating the outer surfaces of walls, you do not need to take care of anti fire safety. In this regard, I can give some useful advice:

1. For insulation, it is necessary to buy polystyrene foam, in which substances are added that contribute to the attenuation of the material during a fire (flame retardants). Thanks to them, the level of fire safety of the insulation increases (it goes into category G3). You can recognize such a heat insulator by the letter "C" in the marking.
2. When arranging an insulating layer, special fire protection belts made of mineral wool can be mounted, which limits the spread of fire.
3. Use as an insulation finish cement plaster, the layer of which protects polystyrene foam from fire.

Environmental friendliness

I will not dwell on this point for a long time. I can only say that the material during operation and installation does not harm human health. This is evidenced by certificates issued by regulatory authorities for heaters presented in stores.

I note that the absence of harm is guaranteed only if the rules for installing the insulation and its subsequent use are observed. Therefore, if you have chosen this material for work, take the trouble to thoroughly study the technology of its installation on aerated concrete walls.

After analyzing all the listed characteristics, I personally do not understand why it is impossible to use foam plastic to insulate walls made of cellular concrete. Judging from the point of view of operational properties, there are no significant restrictions here.

Mineral wool

So, how to insulate the walls from the outside, in addition to foam. Of course, mineral wool. More precisely, the variety that is made from minerals of volcanic origin.

Heat-preserving properties

I will start, as usual, with the coefficient of thermal conductivity, since I consider this indicator to be the main one when choosing heat insulating material.

Mineral wool consists of microscopic fibers glued together with phenol resin. Inside the insulating mat, a huge number of layers of air are formed, which is a poor conductor of heat.

Due to this structure, the described insulation receives a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (from 0.032 to 0.048 W / (m * K)). Naturally, this is more than that of polystyrene, but it is quite enough to protect the aerated concrete house from heat loss.

For comparison: mineral wool 13.5 cm thick has the same thermal resistance as a wall of aerated concrete blocks 98.1 cm thick. The conclusion is simple: why spend time and money on building such thick walls when you can install mineral wool on the facade cotton wool.

Vapor permeability

According to this indicator basalt wool leaves far behind the expanded polystyrene discussed above. Air and the moisture contained in it easily penetrate through the layer of insulation, so thermal insulation in no way interferes with the “breathing” of building envelopes.

If speak about exact values, then mineral wool has a vapor permeability coefficient of 0.39 to 0.6 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, it is more than that of aerated concrete itself (0.26 for the D300 grade). From this we can conclude that basalt mats are a vapor-permeable insulation that is ideal for thermal insulation of walls made of cellular building materials.

This fact must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing. It is better to protect mineral wool with hinged materials with an intermediate ventilation gap. Cement, which can also be considered as an option, to reduce the overall vapor permeability of building envelopes.

Water absorption

Some experts do not advise using mineral wool, referring to its ability to absorb a large amount of liquid, which negatively affects thermal conductivity (it increases).

However, in this case we are talking about obsolete slag and glass wool. A modern insulation based on basalt fiber has almost zero water absorption coefficient.

The bottom line is that basalt fibers themselves are not able to absorb water, but they are glued into a ready-made insulation using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which have hydrophobic properties and contribute to the rapid removal of the liquid that has entered the insulation to the surface of the waterproofing layer.

The moisture-repellent properties of mineral wool are so high that it is often used for internal thermal insulation saunas, cellars and other similar premises with a humid microclimate.

However, when using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of walls using the hinged facade method, it is imperative to use a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane. Thanks to it, the efficiency of the insulation increases and its service life is threaded.

Strength

Despite the apparent softness, mineral wool is in no way inferior to the foam plastic discussed above in terms of strength. The high strength of the material is achieved due to the chaotic arrangement of basalt fibers, some of which are oriented vertically relative to the plane of the mats.

The specific strength value largely depends on the strength index, however, like foam, at 10% surface deformation, the material has a tensile strength of up to 80 kPa.

Therefore, mineral wool, like polystyrene, can be covered on top with a thin layer of cement screed. And installed in a crate on the walls, it retains its original dimensions throughout the entire period of operation, regardless of external conditions.

Fortitude

Basalt wool (unlike, for example, slag wool) is chemically and biologically neutral. Upon contact with mortars it does not enter into a chemical reaction with them. Insulation can be glued to porous aerated concrete with cement adhesive, which will firmly hold the heat-insulating layer throughout the life of the house.

In addition, the insulation is not subject to biocorrosion. Microorganisms - mold and fungus, as well as insects cannot develop inside the basalt wool and on its surface.

Another big plus is rodent protection. Mice cannot damage the layer of basalt insulation, which favorably distinguishes the latter against the background of polystyrene.

Sound absorption

This is another indicator that favorably distinguishes mineral wool against the background of polystyrene. Unlike the latter, basalt fiber insulation has an open structure, therefore it perfectly absorbs sound waves of structural and air origin.

If you want to reliably protect the interior of an aerated concrete house from extraneous sounds - the best material than basalt wool is not worth looking for. It is often used to construct soundproof partitions that prevent the propagation of sound waves inside living rooms.

combustibility

Basalt wool is made from minerals of volcanic origin. The fibers from which the insulating mats are glued are able to maintain integrity when heated above 1110 degrees Celsius. Therefore, in the event of a fire, the heat-insulating layer not only does not ignite, but also contributes to the attenuation of the flame and limits its further spread.

According to the fire safety rules (NPB number 244-97), basalt wool belongs to the NG class in terms of combustibility. Therefore, it can be used for warming two- and three-story private aerated concrete houses(since high-rise structures are subject to increased fire safety requirements).

Environmental friendliness

Basalt insulation is made from a natural mineral that cannot harm human health. A small emission of phenol is due to the use of formaldehyde resins for gluing fibers.

In order to neutralize the negative effect of insulation on human health, mineral wool is subjected to additional heat treatment during the production process, which neutralizes adhesive composition.

As a result, the residual emission of harmful substances is much lower than the norm. This is confirmed by studies conducted by the Russian Research Institute of Building Physics. Moreover, they also studied the emission of fibers, which was also minimal even for a material aged 50 years.

Mineral wool is perhaps the best option for insulating aerated concrete walls, as it not only insulates the walls, but also does not stop air infiltration through cellular concrete.

However, in order not to be accused of a lack of objectivity later, I will consider another option that is only gaining popularity - polyurethane foam.

polyurethane foam

This material belongs to the category of sprayed insulation, that is, it is applied with a sprayer and forms a completely homogeneous, sealed layer, which adheres perfectly to the porous surface of aerated concrete.

However, how well is it suitable for thermal insulation of cellular walls? Now let's figure it out.

Heat-preserving properties

The thermal conductivity of the sprayed depends on the size of the cells, that is, the density of the hardened foam. Usually it takes a value from 0.019 to 0.035 W / (m * K). That is, it is in the middle between the foam, which is the leader, and mineral wool.

As in the cases described above, when insulating a house of aerated concrete blocks built in middle lane Russian Federation it will be necessary to spray foamy polyurethane with a layer 10, less often 5 cm thick (depending on the brand of material used in the construction of walls).

Vapor permeability

Polyurethane foam after hardening practically does not allow air to pass through the insulation layer. The vapor permeability of polyurethane of any density (from 32 to 80 kg per cubic meter) is 0.05 mg / (m * h * Pa). This is approximately the same as that of a reinforced concrete monolith (0.03).

Therefore, when deciding to use polyurethane foam for insulating "breathing" aerated concrete walls, it should be borne in mind that the insulation completely stops air infiltration through the building envelope.

On the one hand, this protects the material from moisture, on the other hand, it does not allow excess moisture come out of the walls. In addition, a large amount of water vapor will be concentrated in the premises, which should be removed from there using an effective ventilation system.

Water absorption

The material practically does not absorb water. In direct contact with a liquid in the first 23 hours, polyurethane foam absorbs no more than 2% of its own volume of water (the exact number depends on the foam recipe).

Moreover, substances are often added to the initial composition - water repellents, which 4 times increase the water-repellent properties of the insulation in question. Most often, castor oil plays this role.

Strength

Given the specifics of the preparation of insulation (mixing immediately before application), the strength characteristics of the material may vary depending on the needs of specialists.

Rigid polyurethane foams, which are used for insulation of residential buildings and commercial structures, at 10% surface deformation have a strength of 1.6-3.4 kPa (for a density of 35 and 60 kg per cubic meter, respectively).

Typically, polyurethane foam is sprayed on surfaces with pre-installed battens or brackets for installing external decorative cladding.

Fortitude

When compared with expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam better tolerates the effects of external natural factors and chemical compounds. The material is not destroyed by contact with such substances:

• highly concentrated pairs of acids and alkalis, as well as dilute acid and alkaline solutions;
• gasoline and other petroleum products;
• oils;
• alcohols;
• building binders, plasticizers and modifiers.

The material protects the metal installed in the reinforcing belts of aerated concrete walls from corrosion.

Sound absorption

Like polystyrene, the material isolates the room well from structural noise, but poorly absorbs sound waves propagated through the air. Therefore, it is not suitable for arranging soundproof partitions.

combustibility

Unlike the foam plastic considered at the beginning of the article, the material belongs to the category of flame-retardant, slow-burning and self-extinguishing. But not non-combustible (like mineral wool).

The fire resistance of the material used to insulate aerated concrete walls depends on the specific composition of the initial components. There are even special types that can be classified as non-combustible, but they are too expensive, therefore they are used to insulate those objects whose fire-fighting qualities are subject to special requirements.

Environmental friendliness

The polyurethane foam hardened on the walls is absolutely safe for humans under normal operating conditions. Only when heated above 500 degrees Celsius can the material emit carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, which are dangerous to human health.

However, during spraying, when a chemical reaction occurs between the components of the mixture, it is necessary to protect the respiratory organs, eyes and skin from the harmful effects of certain substances in the composition of polyurethane foam.

As you can see, polyurethane foam, with some reservations, is suitable for insulating aerated concrete, but I would still prefer vapor-permeable mineral wool or cheap foam.

Summary

You now have enough information to enable you to right choice Insulation: The outside walls of your home will be adequately protected. An approximate instruction on how to use basalt mats for this purpose is presented to your attention in the video in this article.

Let's think together whether it is possible to insulate the floor on the slab with aerated concrete in order to prevent heat loss through basement? Write your notes in the comments!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, which thermal insulation material choose? These questions concern many who have decided to build a house from cellular materials. Since the distinctive property of aerated concrete is vapor permeability, this property must be preserved.

For heat-insulating materials, this coefficient should be somewhat lower than that of the material from which the walls are built. If this parameter is higher, there is a possibility of moisture accumulation.

Is it possible to use foam plastic for insulation, a material that is very popular? How to properly insulate the gas silicate walls of the house?

Styrofoam properties

Like aerated concrete, foam plastic has positive and negative qualities.

Material advantages

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Low specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Foam properties - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Material disadvantages

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroyed in contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Doesn't let air through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents, so it needs protection.

When choosing a foam plastic as a heater for aerated concrete outside, it is necessary to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature fluctuations in the house, and reduce heating costs

The sequence of works on the installation of foam from the outside

To insulate the facade of the building, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The surface of aerated concrete must be cleaned of dirt, glue, dents and other irregularities should be leveled;
2. Application of a primer on the outside for porous materials;
3. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is recommended to reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm enter under the insulation;
4. Bonding foam boards. For this, a special one is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over a small section of the wall outside the house or onto a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are processed with glue;
5. For additional fastening outside, plastic long dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Application of the first plaster layer on the foam, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so that subsequently cracks will not form;
8. Application of the second layer of plaster;
9. Facade painting.

Highlights at work

In construction there is such a thing as "dew point". The formation of condensate will depend on its location. When erecting walls, the point is in the blocks themselves, but when they begin to insulate, there is a gradual shift, moreover, towards the heat-insulating material.

High-quality insulation is the key to comfortable indoor conditions

Consider the following points

• The house must be properly ventilated.
• It is necessary to choose the right thickness of the foam, taking into account the indicators for heat engineering. It is possible to insulate the walls from the outside with thin sheets of 2 - 4 cm, but this will be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick are the best solution, it is then that the house will be warmer.

We emphasize once again that the foam plastic passes vapors worse, thus, the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. , lightweight waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for facade insulation, such as extruded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to "breathe" is up to you. You can make the house "breathable" if you provide both good exhaust and air flow.

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to keep warm. With this problem, a material such as polystyrene does an excellent job.

A vapor barrier is not used to cut off the insulation from the wall, as it will cause the accumulation of vapors escaping from the wall array and wetting the gas silicate.

On the contrary, free passage of steam through the mineral wool is required.

At the same time, atmospheric humidity can adversely affect the properties of the insulation, and mineral wool is prone to getting wet from the action of humidity.

The solution is the outer layer of a vapor barrier membrane that releases vapor from the inside, but does not allow moisture to pass through from the outside.

The installation of the membrane is done with the most continuous layer, horizontal stripes (starting from the bottom), with an overlap of layers of at least 15 cm and obligatory gluing of joints with a special adhesive tape.

CAREFULLY!
No holes or violations of the integrity of the vapor-hydroprotective layer are allowed!

With the finishing layer of plaster, the membrane is not installed, layers are applied alternately instead of it exterior finish(Adhesive-fiberglass-primer-plaster), which together act as a waterproofing.

Features of insulation with various materials

There are many options for arranging a layer of insulating material. Manufacturers offer big choice the products you need at affordable prices. Consider the most popular options:

Styrofoam

One of economical options A that is only used outside the object. There are two types - foam and foam.

Styrofoam

The cost of the material is low, so it is preferred by developers seeking to save a budget.

It should be taken into account that it does not let steam through. For this reason, when installing an insulating layer, it is recommended to provide a ventilation system

The material is fixed on the previously cleaned walls with an adhesive composition applied with a spatula with teeth. Additionally, plastic dowels are used. During the gluing of foam sheets, their slight displacement is allowed. You can plaster and paint the surface after the adhesive solution has completely dried.

Penoplex

With its characteristics, the material resembles polystyrene, it is used for outdoor work. Before starting the installation, the surface of the walls is cleaned of gaps, chips, protrusions and cracks using a plaster mortar. This gives the surface of the walls evenness and additional protection from the penetration of cold air currents.

When the plaster mortar dries, the wall is treated with a primer to improve the adhesion of the foam insulation to the aerated concrete blocks. When installing an insulating layer, a cement-based adhesive and dish-shaped dowels are used. The final stage is the finishing of the facade walls with plaster mortars or siding panels.

mineral wool

The material has good strength and vapor permeability, goes well with aerated concrete walls.

The use of such material provides comfort and a moderate level of humidity in the room.

The insulation layer will last at least seventy years. The material is fastened with plastic dowels and glue, which fixes the mesh of fiberglass material. It will ensure the integrity of the plaster layer and paint applied from above. Some people prefer to arrange wall insulation from the outside with mineral wool for siding.

Installation of foam

Two types of glue can be used for gluing the foam. One of them is made on the basis of cement and is prepared by kneading. In this case, a significant part of the time is spent on the preparation of the composition. Another material option is special formulations that are similar to polyurethane foam, but have a lower coefficient of expansion. The application of such adhesives is carried out by means of a gun, which is used for polyurethane foam. If the base is made with a small border that protrudes outside the walls, then you can immediately proceed with the installation of the foam, if it is not there, then you will need to first fix the starting bar.

The latter is a metal profile, the width of which is selected according to the thickness of the foam used. At a height of 15–20 cm, a line is beaten off from the blind area with a coloring cord. A metal profile is exposed along this line and fixed to the wall with dowels and self-tapping screws. It must be fixed around the entire perimeter of the house. Next, glue is applied to the foam sheet with a snake, and it is tightly applied to the wall with support on the mounted profile. Installation must begin from one of the corners of the building. Each subsequent row is laid with an offset of half a sheet to ensure the interlacing of the insulation seams. In this case, it will be easier to eliminate cold bridges, as well as provide greater surface strength. Each seam is additionally filled with glue.

Laying material is made under the roof. In this case, glue alone will not be enough to fix the foam, because as the plane builds up, its weight increases. Plastic umbrellas are used as additional fixators for foam plastic. To install them on a foam sheet, you need to drill five holes. One of them is in the middle of the foam sheet and four others are drilled into the seam to secure two adjacent foam sheets with one umbrella. Umbrellas are hammered in so that their hats are flush with the foam, after which their position is fixed with a plastic nail.

After completing the installation of plastic foam fasteners, you can proceed to strengthen the insulated surface with a fiberglass mesh. For its fixation, self-tapping screws are not used. First of all, the entire surface of the foam is covered with a special cement-based material. The layer of material should be such that the mesh can be easily recessed into it. As soon as a layer of material is applied to the width of the mesh roll, the latter is applied to the surface and embedded in the adhesive with a wide spatula. Separate sheets meshes are overlapped on the foam to create a monolithic plane. As soon as the glue layer dries, it is grouted with fine sandpaper. Next, another layer of glue is applied to the foam, which is also cleaned with sandpaper. The process is repeated one more time to achieve the desired result. After curing with plaster, you can proceed to the finishing.

How to properly insulate a house from gas silicate

Regarding the insulation of houses, many articles have been written and no fewer opinions have been circulated. A very common approach is the idea that the bigger and thicker the cladding of the house, the warmer it will become. However, this is not always the case. In this article, we will try to figure out how to insulate a house from gas silicate, what materials are better to use for this, and whether it is worth doing it at all.

First of all, those who have already lived for some time in houses built from gas silicate blocks will tell you that this material itself has good thermal insulation properties. Sometimes they are already quite enough to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room. And not only in winter, but also in summer. Gas silicate is characterized by high thermal insulation performance, it maintains a warm climate in the house in winter and cool in summer. To increase the standard resistance to heat transfer of walls from such blocks is justified only in the case of the desire to bring the house to a state of energy passivity. However, in this case, the cost of equipment and improvement of engineering networks will increase, which will negate possible savings on heating. For this reason, the insulation of a house made of gas silicate is not always necessary and not always justified. Many do not even insulate the house from gas silicate at all, since the own heat-insulating properties of this material are quite enough.

If for some reason you still intend to insulate your cottage, you need to remember that internal insulation will not give any positive result, and sometimes it can even give a negative one - the building will become less thermally insulated. The following rule applies here: if the insulation material is attached to gas silicate blocks outside, then their heat-insulating properties are summed up, and if from the inside, then the wall is subtracted and almost does not participate in this process. For this reason, by gluing the insulation inside, on the contrary, it is possible to lower the resistance of the walls of the house to heat transfer. So how to insulate a house from gas silicate? Here are some recommendations.

Warming of the house from gas silicate blocks is carried out using mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The gas silicate wall itself has good thermal insulation qualities. Sticking a thin layer of expanded polystyrene on the outside of it, you will not get the desired results in insulation. The reason for this is as follows.

There is an opinion that if the house is “wrapped” in a thick layer of polystyrene foam, it will stop “breathing”. In part, this is true. But the ventilation of the house should not occur through cracks in the walls, but through ventilation systems and extracts. The thin, vapor-tight membrane on the outside provides only 25% of the wall's total resistance to heat transfer. It's pretty small. But it leads to the fact that moisture accumulates outside the gas silicate wall, the wall is impregnated with it and loses its heat-insulating characteristics.

In order for the insulation to really do its job, its layer must be at least 80 mm thick. If it is too thin, it will reduce the durability of the entire building compared to buildings that are simply painted over concrete masonry. In order for the insulation of a house made of gas silicate foam blocks to be effective, its layer must provide at least 50% of the total thermal resistance of the wall.

Mineral wool is used as a heater that fills the space between the wall and the cladding of the house. In the case of insulation with mineral wool, it should not stick tightly into the brick lining. This will lead to the accumulation of moisture at the junction of brick and mineral wool. Another option for insulation is mineral wool in combination with siding cladding. With this approach, the wall remains vapor-permeable.

Insulating a house made of gas silicate with foam plastic is a technically incorrect solution, since the same problem arises: moisture accumulates at the junction of the wall and the insulation. Recently, a material such as rockwool, or stone wool. It has a number of very good properties, such as vapor permeability, which allows it to be used in combination with gas silicate, high thermal insulation properties, incombustibility, sound insulation, resistance to deformation and water repellency. It is used as a heater also in combination with siding or other cladding.

Now you know how to insulate a gas silicate house. Finally, it should be said that when building from blocks of sufficient thickness, you may not need insulation at all, since gas silicate itself is sometimes used as a heater.

The choice of insulation

For the insulation of buildings and structures, different heaters are used. Often people ask themselves the question - is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with polystyrene foam? Apparently, the characteristics of this material, which has recently appeared in our country, are not so widely known. We answer: it is possible.

Styrofoam - very effective insulation. True, it takes a lot of time to insulate the walls with polystyrene foam, but installation is easy, and you can isolate any surface with it.

Therefore, there is no need to doubt whether it is possible to insulate aerated concrete with polystyrene foam.
After the insulation of the "gas silicate" blocks, the position of the dew point changes. It shifts into the coverage area, while before that it was in the thickness of the wall.

from gas silicate blocks implies high-quality fixing of the insulation on their surface. For this, special adhesives or dowels can be used. After installing the insulation, a reinforcing layer is made, which is a glass fiber mesh. At the end of the work, to give a good appearance, the insulation is covered with decorative plaster.

As a rule, siding is used for the final finish. This facing material is attached to the wall with wooden slats, serving as a kind of crate.

Aerated concrete walls let in four times less heat than walls made of other building materials. This suggests that a properly designed heating system is often enough. But, the use of a heater will not be superfluous for sure.

The structure of aerated concrete is porous, due to which, the thermal insulation properties of this material are high. Small pores are filled with air, resulting in one system with good thermal insulation properties.

Styrofoam properties

Like aerated concrete, foam plastic has positive and negative qualities.

Material advantages

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Low specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Styrofoam properties - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Material disadvantages

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroyed in contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Doesn't let air through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents, so it needs protection.

When choosing a foam plastic as a heater for aerated concrete outside, it is necessary to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature fluctuations in the house, and reduce heating costs

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

For thermal insulation of walls made of gas silicate using a wet method, plates with a density of at least 150 kg / m3 are used. To determine the thickness of the heat insulator, a thermotechnical calculation of the external enclosing structures is carried out. For the Moscow region, a wall with a thickness of 400 mm is required to be insulated with a layer of mineral wool board of 80 mm.

Materials required for work:

• adhesive composition from dry building mixes (CCC); basement strip with a shelf width equal to the thickness of the mineral wool board along the perimeter of the house; insulation - basalt slabs; alkali-resistant plastic mesh over the facade area plus an additional layer to a height of 2 m; protective corner meshes or additional the amount of mesh for a width of 600 mm along the height of each corner of the walls; plastic corners to protect the inner corners of openings; plaster composition and vapor-permeable acrylic paint for finishing; dowel-screws with a metal core and a thermally insulated head (fungi) at the rate of 5–6 pcs/m2.

Warming is carried out in several stages:

Base preparation - the walls are cleaned of dust, dirt, oil or solvent stains, excess mortar. Installing a base plate to support the bottom plate and protect the insulation from rodents. The bar is fixed so that the shelf is 2 cm below the junction of the wall and the foundation. On the back surface of the insulation plate along the perimeter with an indent of 1.5 ... 2 cm from the edge and 2 ... The adhesive should not get on the end of the insulation - this forms a cold bridge.

The plate is installed in place in the lower left corner of the facade. The operation is repeated over the entire surface of the walls, from the bottom up, placing vertical seams between the plates 300 mm apart. The heat insulator strips are glued onto the ends of the window and door openings. After a day, the plates are doweled, placing the dowel-screws in the corners and in the center of each plate, sinking the dowel head flush with the surface of the heater. The overlaps of the slabs at the corners are cut off, the seams more than 3 mm wide between the slabs are filled with scraps of insulation. A protective mesh is glued - an adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the basalt slab with a layer of 3-4 mm, a piece of mesh is applied and it is embedded with a spatula into the adhesive composition.

In the corners of the house, special corner mesh elements or an additional layer of protective mesh are glued. With pieces of mesh 5x10 cm, they strengthen all the facade corners of the openings, stick special plastic corners on the inner corners of the openings. An additional layer of protective mesh is glued to a height of 2 m. After the adhesive has completely dried for 97 days or according to the manufacturer's instructions, the surface is primed with an adhesive primer, and the finish is performed.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to make a simple calculation. The data for the calculation is taken from the reference tables. SNiP-th standardizes the total required heat transfer resistance for walls (Ro) depending on the region (measured in m² ° C / W). This value is the sum of the resistance to heat transfer of the wall material (Rst) and the insulation layer (Rut): Ro = Rst + Rut. For example, choose St. Petersburg (Ro=3.08).

Heat transfer resistance is calculated by the formula R= δ ⁄ λ, where δ is the thickness of the material (m), λ is the thermal conductivity of the material (W/m °C). Let's say our house is built from aerated concrete blocks of the D500 brand, 300 mm thick (λ = 0.42 - we take from the reference table). Then the own heat transfer resistance of the wall without thermal insulation will be Rst = 0.3 / 0.42 = 0.72, and the heat transfer resistance of the insulation layer Rut = Ro-Rst = 3.08-0.72 = 2.36. As a heat-insulating material, we choose lightweight polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / mᶟ (λ = 0.044 W / m ° C).

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer is calculated by the formula δ=Rut λ. The thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene with a density of 10 kg / mᶟ - λ \u003d 0.044 W / m ° C.

The thickness of the insulation is δ = 2.36 0.044 = 0.104 m, that is, according to the norms and rules, standard polystyrene plates with a thickness of 10 cm are suitable for our house.

We check our calculations for the temperature of the "dew point" (condensation formation in the wall):

It can be seen from the graphs that the condensation zone (the area where the lines of the wall temperature and the “dew point” temperature coincide) is located in the heat-insulating layer and does not reach the aerated concrete even at an outside air temperature of -30˚С. Conclusion: our heat-insulating layer is calculated correctly, that is, even at the lowest temperatures, the aerated concrete wall will not be saturated with moisture.

Let's say you don't want to do any calculations and you decide to just buy a material 5 cm thick. Let's see what area the condensation zone will be in with this thickness and all other conditions being equal. For clarity, here is a graph:

We see that moisture is formed not only in the heat-insulating layer, but also in aerated concrete. The presence of water, the thermal conductivity of which is much higher (λ≈0.6) than that of aerated concrete and expanded polystyrene, leads to a decrease in the heat-saving characteristics of the walls of the structure, that is, as a result, we get a "cold house".

Facade insulation with expanded polystyrene

Step-by-step instructions for warming a house from the outside using polystyrene foam:

• Use glue to glue the styrofoam sheets onto the blocks and leave for 24 hours. Corner joints and dowels in the middle to secure the panels more firmly. For even masonry, use a level. Don't worry if the seams don't line up.

Styrofoam laying technology

• Attach fiberglass reinforcing mesh. It will prevent cracking of the plaster and improve the adhesion of the material. Reinforcement begins with fixing the corners, and only then the entire surface is fixed, starting from top to bottom.

• The surface is plastered, painted and sheathed with siding.

Scheme of insulation of gas blocks with foam plastic

If you use polystyrene foam to insulate the house from the outside, then additional protection is not needed.

It is important to remember that the thickness of the slabs for facade insulation should be calculated taking into account climatic features.

There is a large selection of adhesives on the construction market. You can use ready-made dry mixes (Kreisel 210, Ceresit CT85, etc.), liquid adhesive (Bitumast). You can also use ready mounting adhesive(Ceresit CT 84 “Express”, Tytan Styro 753, etc.). Glue should be applied around the perimeter of the slab, as well as additionally in some areas.

Installation of insulation on walls made of gas silicate blocks is not difficult and can be done independently, thereby saving money.

Do-it-yourself gas silicate bath insulation technology

For purposes of do-it-yourself gas silicate blocks, you can choose a heater for a bath based on basalt fiber. Basalt insulation for a bath is a good roll material for thermal insulation. Also, foamed polypropylene foam and aluminum foil coating can be used as a heater and vapor barrier. But this option of insulation and vapor barrier additionally requires a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool. It is necessary to fix steam, hydro and thermal insulation on a specially erected structure. For reliable fastening, they are fixed on the adhesive composition.

IMPORTANT: the design must have a ventilation gap for ventilation and drying of the blocks and insulation

Vapor barrier aluminium foil in the bath is attached to the crate. For this you can use construction stapler or small nails. Additionally, the foil reflects heat radiation. It is convenient to work if the foil is at least 65 microns thick. The sequence of operations for warming: A retaining crate made of wood is formed on the walls, the crate is made with slats 50 mm or more thick. A heater is placed in the formed cavities, if the thermal insulation material is mineral wool, basalt insulation or polystyrene insulation. The insulation must be waterproofed with a foil film. Do not forget to seal all seams with construction tape. The finishing of the gas silicate bath depends on the wishes of the owner. It can be covered with tiles or special clapboard, plastered. The main thing to remember about high temperatures and high humidity in the bath. By the way, if the steam room is finished with linden, then the linden itself plays the role of a heater based on the properties of this wood.

Wizard Tips: lining in the steam room must be fixed horizontally so that it is possible to change only the lower moistened lining in the steam room

How to fix foam insulation to the wall of a gas silicate house

• We purchased an adhesive mixture for thermal insulation boards made of expanded polystyrene. There are a lot of manufacturers of mixtures, we recommend that you take an adhesive mixture that is not very expensive, but you need to choose a reinforcing mixture that is more expensive: it will be easier to work with it in the future;

• Our walls are quite even, so when we worked, we did not pull the threads, but only worked with the level. If the walls are even, it is enough to ensure that the styrofoam (polystyrene) slabs are tightly joined to each other, and at the same time they are in the same plane;

• We mixed the glue in a bucket. First, water was poured into the bucket, approximately half of the bucket, then the mixture was poured in accordance with the instructions, then the glue was evenly mixed with water using a mixer;

• The finished adhesive mixture was applied to the foam with a spatula. Then, with a large-toothed comb (special notched trowel), the mixture was evenly distributed over the foam sheet. We apply an additional portion of glue in the center and edges of the sheet;

• If the wall is uneven, then it is better to apply the adhesive mixture to the wall. So you can level the wall a little by applying more glue into recesses on the wall and smaller - on the bulge. Also, in an intermittent row, apply glue to the wall along the perimeter of the sheet. This technology will allow you to tightly glue the sheet of insulation to the wall;

• Then we firmly press the plate with glue applied to it and tap it against the wall. The plates must be glued in a checkerboard pattern to form T-shaped joints, but you should start sticking the sheets from the bottom row;

• Our house has a protruding plinth. We decided on the width of the plinth, knowing what material for laying the walls and what kind of insulation we will then use, i.e. the width of the plinth was chosen taking into account the fact that after sticking the insulation (polystyrene 80 mm wide) and further plastering the wall surface, the plinth turned out to be sinking. We talked about this in detail in the article on the base;

• Because the basement of the house is protruding - the foam sheets of the lower row rest on it. If your house does not have a protruding plinth, you can nail a special profile along the bottom into which the foam sheets are inserted, as it were. If you do not “fix” the lower edge of the insulation sheets, then the sheets can crawl along the wall until the glue sets.;

• After a day or two, you can begin to nail insulation sheets with special dowels - “umbrellas”. Umbrellas are nailed 5 pieces per sheet: one in the center, four in the corners of the sheet. It is better to use "umbrellas" with a plastic rod to reduce the impact. It is necessary that the umbrella be sunk 1-2 mm into the insulation.

materials

• Insulation.
• Glue for insulation.
• Adhesive for reinforcement.
• Parachutes.

The amount of insulation should be slightly more than the area to be insulated, because the appearance of trimmings is inevitable, and it is very difficult to say exactly how many there will be. It depends on the size of the house. For example, an insulated wall has a height of 3.6 m and a length of 8.55 m. Calculate how much you need to cut off from a meter-long sheet of foam.

The consumption of glue for gluing insulation can also vary widely. If you do not take into account extreme situations, then one bag is enough for 5 - 8 m².

The amount of reinforcement adhesive is more predictable since the wall is already level. These data are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging - from 5.5 kg / m² to 6.5 kg / m².

We take the number of parachutes at the rate of 5 pcs / m², but with some margin, since these plastic products sometimes break.

What aerated concrete does not need to be insulated

The required thermal resistance is provided by the following options for single-layer aerated concrete walls: D300(300mm), D400(375mm), D500(500mm).

If you are a self-builder, then we would advise you to take high-quality aerated concrete of the D400 brand (375 mm), which just meets the requirements for thermal protection and does not require additional insulation.

The D400 is quite robust for a two-story building and its thermal efficiency is very high, which makes it optimal in all respects. D300 is too brittle and often cracked, while D500 is too heavy and costly in 500mm thick masonry.

How to insulate walls from gas silicate blocks

Gas silicate is made in an autoclave kiln when quartz sand, aluminum powder, white lime and water are combined together. The result is a foamed and porous material.

Houses with gas silicate do not have to be insulated, sometimes a simple finish is enough, if the climatic zone and the specifics of construction allow.

Is it worth trampling a house of gas silicate blocks?

The gas silicate itself is a good heat insulator, since there are pores with air inside it, which prevent the penetration of cold into the house. Ate, the installation was done at a high professional level and the blocks were glued with maximum density. Then the total area of ​​all "bridges" through which cold can penetrate into the building will be small.

However, if the installation of gas silicate blocks was carried out using a cement mortar, and not a special glue, then there will be significant heat loss at the seams. Such a structure needs additional insulation. Also, buildings with gas silicate need insulation, where the density is less than 400-500 kilograms per cubic meter(depending on the climatic zone of the location where the house is located).

Video: Is it worth insulating a gas silicate house?

Gas silicate blocks perfectly tolerate temperature fluctuations and retain heat well, but they have a minus - this is a hygroscopic material. What should be considered when choosing a heater, it should protect the walls well from the external environment (mainly from moisture).

Also, this minus determines the fact that buildings built with gas silicate need to be insulated from the outside. Thus, you will save the internal damage of the house, and the dew point will shift inside the insulation.

Note that if such walls are not properly insulated, moisture will settle on their surface and, as a result, the structural integrity of the structure will be at risk, up to destruction. Therefore, carefully approach the choice of specialists in the insulation of buildings from gas silicate blocks.

What material to insulate gas silicate blocks?

Profile experts do not recommend the use of foam plastic for insulating houses with gas silicate (although it is sometimes used), since the foam allows water vapor to pass through, which negatively affects the gas silicate. Especially in the cold season, when moisture can concentrate inside the structure and freeze there, which can lead to destruction. However, if you have chosen foam insulation, then vapor-tight plaster, wallpaper or a special latex primer should be applied over it. And instead of the usual foam, it is worth using expanded polystyrene (extruded polystyrene).

It is best to insulate walls with gas silicate blocks - mineral wool. It is a safe and non-combustible insulation, which is optimal for residential buildings. Since mineral wool is an environmentally friendly material.

Works on the insulation of buildings from gas silicate blocks

Work on insulation begins with fixing a reinforcing lattice on the walls, for a heat insulator. They are fixed with dowels and special glue. For external insulation it is necessary to use frost-resistant plasters.

Insulation of gas silicate walls with mineral wool, when using a half-brick masonry facing material, will be very durable and at the same time will be reliable and environmentally friendly. With this method, a small space is deliberately left between gas silicate wall and masonry (optimally 2 cm), for ventilation.

Insulation of the walls of the house with polystyrene foam, followed by facing them with bricks

The veranda of the house is insulated not only with polystyrene, but also with bricks. In our case, the brick is not only a heater, but also an element of decor. For cladding, old brick was used, from which, among other things, the columns of the veranda were laid out. Such a naturally aged brick looks very decorative after coating it with varnish.

In addition, the brick previously used in construction is of good quality (which is important) and a lower price, which is also very important when building an inexpensive house. We are building an inexpensive, but comfortable and reliable home, remember? . The foam attachment technology is exactly the same as described above.

The foam attachment technology is exactly the same as described above.

Now we veneer the walls with bricks as follows:

• We provide a gap of 1-2 cm between the insulation and brickwork;
• We lay a row of bricks using a masonry mortar;
• Then, over the stacked row of bricks, we drive nails into gas silicate blocks through the insulation so that part of the nail with the cap lies on the brick. The next layer of mortar is laid on driven nails and bricks;
• Nails need to be driven in every 3-4 rows of brickwork.

Thus, breaking through the wall with nails at regular intervals, and lay out the brick to the required height. Depending on the appearance of the brick used, you can get a different effect.

In addition to the method described above for tying brickwork with nails, you can use galvanized strips 3-4 cm wide. Clamps are L-shaped and are attached to the wall (the long part is laid in brickwork, the shorter part is attached to the wall). In order to save money, clamps can be cut out of a galvanized sheet by yourself, the quality will not deteriorate)

We all love what we got!

Good luck and see you soon, dear readers of our blog ""!

More about the advantages of aerated concrete

Less significant, but still important advantages of the material are:

• Relatively low cost.
• A light weight.
• Ability to pass steam and gas.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• Strict linear dimensions of blocks.

Walls of aerated concrete blocks should be designed so that the vapor permeability of the surface decreases towards the inner layer from the outer one. outside should be carried out with this in mind.

If carelessly treated present moment, the steam that accumulates in aerated concrete blocks will lead to increased humidity, which will negatively affect not only the quality of the building material, but also the entire structure. Additional advantages include frost resistance and fire safety.

The need for work on the insulation of private housing

It should be noted that the load-bearing walls of the house with a thickness of at least 30 cm, constructed from aerated concrete blocks with a strength class of D400, fully meet all the standards in terms of thermal insulation. Therefore, they do not need to install an additional layer of insulating material.

Scheme of the construction of a gas silicate wall.

However, in suburban one-story construction, gas silicate is often used not 30 cm thick, but 20 cm thick with a D200 strength class. Walls made of such material have poor thermal insulation, so they need additional insulation. Not the last role in the issue of the use of insulation is played by the external cladding. No matter how carefully the laying of blocks is carried out, such a house will not have a beautiful appearance without exterior decoration. Therefore, to make housing presentable, an external finish is used, which is best mounted on a heater in compliance with all standards for vapor and waterproofing.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that it is necessary to insulate walls made of gas silicate in the following cases:

• during construction, cellular concrete with a density below D500 was used;
• wall thickness does not exceed 30 cm;
• masonry seams turned out to be thick;
• The house is located in a region with harsh climatic conditions.

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Gas silicate blocks are an excellent masonry material, however, it should be purchased from trusted manufacturers, with a certificate of conformity, so as not to throw money away on low-quality handicraft material.

When performing work, it should be remembered that this material has low mechanical and impact strength, the use of an impact tool for a perforator is unacceptable.

Since the blocks have a high moisture absorption, it is advisable to hydrophobize them with a special primer before starting to stick the insulation.

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Insulation of gas silicate walls outside and inside the house

Insulation of the walls of the house from gas silicate blocks

The issue of solving the problem associated with heating the house must be approached comprehensively. The materials used in the construction of the house and the heating system must be planned in advance. Only in this case you will achieve the optimal ratio of the maximum degree of comfort and the minimum level of costs. Quite often, they try to compensate for the shortcomings of the building material used in the construction of the house, using additional wall insulation outside the house.

Scheme of wall insulation from gas silicate blocks.

During construction low-rise buildings the allowable thickness of gas silicate blocks is 0.2 m. This indicator was calculated based on the optimal level of load on building blocks that the house can withstand. At the same time, under the influence of humidity, the thermal insulation of the gas silicate house is gradually reduced. By themselves, such blocks are very sensitive to moisture and absorb it very well.

Due to the porous structure of the walls of gas silicate blocks, all the moisture that gets on them is retained in them, gradually destroying the gas silicate blocks from the inside.

Due to moisture, the thermal conductivity of the blocks is rapidly increasing, so additional insulation of the walls outside the house is a necessary task.

Wall insulation inside the house

Warming inside the house.

To achieve maximum effective insulation at home, the surface of the walls inside it should be clean and even. Places that protrude from the wall must be rubbed, and hollow areas filled with glue or cement-sand mortar.

After the surface has dried, it will need to be cleaned of dust and treated with a primer to increase wall adhesion. After the primer layer dries up (1-3 hours), you can start plastering.

If there are areas on the wall of the house that are often exposed to dampness and moisture, they must be treated with a waterproofing solution and plastered with a moisture-resistant cement mixture. After the treated wall gets stronger, it can be given a flat surface.

This technology involves wetting the wall with a plastered layer, which gives it the necessary evenness. For best results, repeat this procedure several times.

Internal wall insulation.

After all this, you can start covering the wall. finishing materials. It is best to use a special gas silicate paint with a vapor-permeable effect here.

The interior decoration of the house can be done using drywall, after pre-treating the walls with a primer. Drywall can be attached directly to the wall or to metal carcass. The frame is constructed from special aluminum profiles for drywall.

If the room has high humidity and dampness, it is more expedient to use a tile as a cladding. The main thing in the internal insulation of a gas silicate house is to use vapor-permeable materials so that the house is not stuffy.

Wall insulation outside the house

Wall insulation from gas silicate blocks along the facade: 1 - gas silicate block; 2 - horizontal lathing - LVL timber 45 * 45mm; 3 - plate Ursa PureOne; 4 - vertical lathing - LVL timber 45*45mm; 5 - hydro, windproof membrane; 6 - counter-beam LVL 30*45mm.

The first step is to treat the vulnerable sections of the wall with an adhesive solution: the joints of gas silicate blocks and window and door openings. The easiest way to insulate the outer wall is to insulate it with foam. Any beginner will cope with this task. Styrofoam has a relatively low price, which will save your family budget. The only negative in using foam is its throughput couple, or rather, its absence. This finish will not allow the walls to "breathe". Therefore, with such a finish, the ventilation system must be thought out thoroughly.

If you make insulation inside the house exclusively from vapor-permeable materials, and use impermeable materials when finishing the facade of the house, the steam that will accumulate in the blocks will not have an exit. In this case, the formation of condensate and dampness in the house is inevitable. Therefore, for exterior cladding are not suitable:

Finishing work with facade decorative plaster for insulation

After reinforcement, we apply a special primer Contact - plus.

As a plaster, we used bark beetle facade plaster. There are also a lot of manufacturers of such plaster - choose any. The bark beetle can be both colored (with the addition of pigment) and for painting. The material is expensive but worth it. The facade will look decent for a long time.

How to apply bark beetle plaster correctly? On the facades, plaster with solid particles of 1.5 - 3.5 mm in size looks more interesting.

The plaster must be applied with a metal spatula with a thickness equal to the size of the bark beetle particles. Immediately, without waiting for drying, with a grater we make circular movements or up and down movements. The further “drawing” of the plaster will depend on this.

Moisten the grater more often - it will be easier to work. After drying, go over the grater again, but with great effort

Here it is important to “catch”, “feel” the material in order for the drawing to turn out spectacular.

It is desirable to apply the plaster on the entire surface immediately from corner to corner. Otherwise, the joint may be noticeable.

After complete drying, paint can be applied. On this wall insulation, at the same time, the decoration of the facade is completed.

Consider the following points

• The house must be properly ventilated.
• It is necessary to choose the right thickness of the foam, taking into account the indicators for heat engineering. It is possible to insulate the walls from the outside with thin sheets of 2-4 cm, but this will be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick are the best solution, it is then that the house will be warmer.

We emphasize once again that the foam plastic passes vapors worse, thus, the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. , lightweight waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for facade insulation, such as extruded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to "breathe" is up to you. You can make the house "breathe" if you provide both a good exhaust and air supply

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to keep warm. With this problem, a material such as polystyrene does an excellent job.

Reinforcing mesh

The reinforcing mesh protects the plaster, which is applied to the heat-insulating material, from cracking.

The coefficient of thermal insulation, strength, moisture resistance and other performance characteristics depend on the density of the material used. The better the insulating properties of the material, the lower the density. This means shorter service life.

It is very important to consider all this when choosing a heater.

Insulation of the building begins with the facade. The material used for thermal insulation of walls must be environmentally friendly. That's exactly what polystyrene foam is.

A good insulation must be hygroscopic, permeable, breathable, fireproof, plastic, strong and durable; biologically and chemically resistant.

Extruded polystyrene foam is used not only for external wall insulation. It is also used for device pavement, facade insulation and much more. Road insulation using this material reduces the negative impact caused by soil freezing and damage to the roadway during its operation.

Surface preparation

The surface of gas blocks requires some preparation before proceeding with the installation of foam. Due to the fact that the blocks are made in molds and then cut, one of the surfaces can be quite smooth, so for better adhesion it must be roughened. To do this, you can use coarse sandpaper, which you just need to walk over the surface. Due to its porosity, aerated concrete can quickly absorb moisture from the adhesive, which will create difficulties in warming. Therefore, in some cases it will be appropriate to treat the walls with a primer. Since the primer absorbs rather quickly, several layers of material can be applied. Each is laid after the previous one has dried. It is more convenient to use a roller with a long handle for these purposes.

Reinforcement of insulation Applying a reinforcing layer to the foam plastic together with the mesh

• Before proceeding with the reinforcement of the insulation, it is necessary to level the walls:

1. putty umbrellas;
2. align the protruding fragments of polystyrene with a special grater;
3. to eliminate the gaps between the sheets of foam using putty, polyurethane foam or pieces of foam (depending on the width of the gap);
4. we attach a layer of putty to the foam part of the grid located near the window, the lower part of which is under the foam layer (we wrote about this above);

We prime the insulation, because during the work with it it got smeared.

As a result of the work carried out, a leveled, clean, primed wall surface with insulation should be obtained, ready for reinforcement.

Now we apply a reinforcing layer with a mesh. It is recommended to apply first one layer, then the second layer, into which the mesh is puttied.

• It is more correct to start reinforcing the insulation with a reinforcement mesh (fiberglass mesh) from the corners of the house. You can (and more correctly) use a plastic or metal perforated corner - this method is used for pasting the catch on the first floor of the house, because. blows or pressure on the corners of the first floor of the house are possible with further possible deformation of the insulation;

• puttying the mesh on the corners, as well as on the walls, occurs as follows:

1. measure and cut off the required piece of mesh;
2. with a spatula, a solution is applied with a thickness of about 2 mm;
3. a mesh is applied;
4. then, with a spatula, the grid is tightly pressed against the foam plastic with movements to the sides and down - as when pasting walls with wallpaper;
5. the mesh must be laid with an overlap of about 10 cm.

Reinforcement with a mesh creates a single surface on the insulation, which will then help to avoid cracks and delaminations on the facade.

If you have financial problems or winter is very close, the house can be left to winter in this state. Don't worry, our house has already survived the winter and nothing happened to it - in the spring the house looked the same as before.

Features of insulation of gas silicate blocks

Three-layer insulation technology

A similar approach to the construction of gas silicate blocks involves the installation of the following three-layer structure: 1st layer: wire anchor for the manufacture of reinforcement (reinforcement is fixed with dowels and washers) 2nd layer: heat-insulating layer made of modern insulation with waterproofing layer 3: facing layer of brick Anchors in the reinforcement structure should be installed at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. It is fittings that are an important step in the technology of insulating gas silicate blocks. It allows you to keep the heater. The facing brick itself is designed to create a presentable appearance and protect the gas silicate block from wind and precipitation. But the role of thermal insulation is played only by a heater, which is located between the brick and the gas silicate block.

vapor barrier

The gas silicate block has not only good heat transfer, but also high vapor permeability. The blocks perfectly absorb water, so they need to be protected not only from direct precipitation, but also from condensation. If we are talking about the classic insulation of gas silicate blocks with mineral wool or foam, then a prerequisite for high-quality construction is the gap between the gas silicate block and the insulation layer. The gap makes it possible to organize proper ventilation of surfaces. This is a good way to get rid of excess moisture in a timely manner.

The gas silicate block has not only good heat transfer, but also high vapor permeability.

Standard insulation technology

The classic way to insulate gas silicate blocks is thermal insulation made of mineral wool. Mineral wool is not only the cheapest insulation for gas silicate blocks, it belongs to the category of breathable insulation for the home. Based on the air circulation system between the gas silicate block, the heat-insulating layer and the brick, mineral wool will well complement the three-layer housing construction technology.

IMPORTANT: worth paying Special attention density of ventilation holes in the wall of the gas silicate block; ventilation holes are provided directly above the surface of the foundation and under the structure of the eaves of the house

The choice of insulation material

Experts argue that it is more expedient to insulate a structure made of aerated concrete from the outside than from inside the house: firstly, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is not lost; secondly, the “dew point” shifts beyond the aerated concrete blocks. A wide variety of materials are used to insulate buildings made of aerated concrete from the outside: mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex), polyurethane foam and polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). Expanded polystyrene is the most popular, due to its low thermal conductivity, durability and low cost. This material is fireproof due to the fact that it contains fire retardant. Also, the advantages of the material include ease of processing and installation: it is easy to cut into pieces of the desired shape, and the plates standard sizes(0.5 x 1, 1 x 1, 1 x 2 m) it is convenient to attach to aerated concrete walls. The thickness of the material (from 20 to 100 mm) allows you to create a sufficient heat-insulating layer (if necessary, the panels can be folded in half). Also, to order, plants produce non-standard sheets of expanded polystyrene with a thickness of up to 500 mm. That is, for the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, there is a large selection of finished products.

Materials for insulation brands, types, characteristics

For the insulation of gas silicate walls, there is a wide selection of materials that have their own advantages and disadvantages.

Synthetic heaters or based on natural minerals have a lot of positive properties:

• do not change shape under the influence of moisture;
• do not rot;
• have a long service life;
• have low thermal conductivity.

To a greater extent, these properties are possessed by: mineral wool, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam. We should also mention thermal panels. Appeared given material on the market relatively recently. Thermal panels are characterized by high properties and give the building a great look. However, the cost of thermal panels is much higher than the cost of other heaters.

Materials are produced in the form of a plate, which is convenient for insulating the walls of the house. In order to make the right choice, it is necessary to compare the characteristics of gas silicate and the listed heaters.

When choosing a heat-insulating material for insulating gas silicate walls from the outside, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with their advantages and disadvantages.

Styrofoam

A common material for facade insulation. Polyfoam is characterized by good heat-insulating abilities, as well as windproof and soundproofing properties. The material is easy to transport and has a light weight. In addition, it is cheap and easy to install. For gas blocks, it is better to use foam with a thickness of 100 mm. Styrofoam does not change its properties for a long time.

Styrofoam slabs

The most important indicator of the quality of the foam is its density. The optimal density of the material for insulation of the facade from the outside is from 15 to 25 kg/m3. Typically, this density has a foam brand PSB-S-25.

Mineral wool

This heat-insulating material passes steam and is the most demanded in construction. It will not only protect the walls, but also extend the life of the gas blocks, and also avoid problems that may arise during the installation of internal thermal insulation. Mineral wool as a heater is characterized by high soundproofing properties, as well as fire resistance.

Mineral wool is one of the popular thermal insulation materials.

Mineral wool is sold under different brands, for example, KNAUF, ISOVER, URSA. The plate thickness can be up to 200 mm.

polyurethane foam

It belongs to the group of porous gas-filled polymers based on polyurethane components.

Polyurethane foam has high technical characteristics

Is different mechanical strength, lightness and expandability. This material is easy to apply and use at work. However, polyurethane foam is characterized by low fire resistance. In addition, this material is afraid of many acidic and alkaline solutions.

Styrofoam

For the production of the material, gas is used, due to which volume is created. It is characterized by low thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and moisture resistance. The material is durable and harmless. There are fire-resistant grades of material that, when exposed to a flame, can fade.

The gas silicate is vapor-permeable, i. passes water vapor

Expanded polystyrene is actively used to insulate not only walls, but also floors, roofs, ceilings

Styrofoam and polyurethane foam are characterized by low vapor permeability, and basalt wool allows steam to pass through and helps to remove it from the insulation. Therefore, mineral wool is most often used. You can use other heaters, but there will be additional costs for the forced ventilation system.

Important! To calculate the amount of the selected insulation, it is recommended to proceed from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls. Next, from the amount received, you need to subtract the dimensions of all windows and doors. At the same time, it is important that there is a margin of at least 5%. Surplus material can always be used on the farm.

Features of warming a bath from gas silicate blocks

Gas silicate can be used not only for building a house, it is also good for building fences, building a bath. The popularity of gas silicate is explained by its high performance and low cost. Therefore, now baths and houses are often built from gas silicate. Advantages of building a gas silicate bath:

• Low material cost
• Short construction times
• Strong and reliable walls
• The lightness of the main material of the bath

But these advantages also come with disadvantages. Indeed, gas silicate blocks are very light due to their porous structure, but that is why they perfectly absorb moisture and do not retain heat at all. Therefore, a bath from a gas silicate block needs special protection, both from high humidity and from heat loss. No one will like it if the bath will easily give off heat through the walls, and it will need to be constantly heated. How to achieve the desired heat resistance? First of all, you need to take care of the antiseptic treatment of the walls. high humidity can lead to the appearance of mold, the spread of fungus and rot. That is why gas silicate blocks must be treated with an antiseptic, which is suitable for rooms with a high humidity index. Next, you need to decide which insulation to choose for a gas silicate bath? Material selection criteria:

• The heater for the bath should retain heat well
• Materials in the bath should not emit harmful substances when heated
• Do not forget about the vapor barrier in the bath
• Insulation for a bath needs a fireproof
• Thermal insulation should be light and not weigh down the gas silicate

The sequence of works on the installation of foam from the outside

To insulate the facade of the building, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The surface of aerated concrete must be cleaned of dirt, glue, dents and other irregularities should be leveled;
2. Application of a primer on the outside for porous materials;
3. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is recommended to reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm enter under the insulation;
4. Bonding foam boards. For this, a special one is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over a small section of the wall outside the house or onto a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are processed with glue;
5. For additional fastening outside, plastic long dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Application of the first plaster layer on the foam, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so that subsequently cracks will not form;
8. Application of the second layer of plaster;
9. Facade painting.

The scheme of insulation of the facade of aerated concrete foam

How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside

Such buildings are best insulated in two layers. The first is an insulating material that is able to absorb moisture, and the second is an external one that can withstand atmospheric influences.

As a warming material, the best option is to use isover. Isover is a modernized glass wool, which consists of organic fibers, which, in turn, are able to give and absorb moisture in significant quantities. Its feature is that moisture is retained strongly enough so that nearby surfaces remain practically dry.

Foreman's advice: some suggest using foam as a heater. This option is not bad, but not suitable for such buildings, since the foam does not absorb moisture, but, on the contrary, can lead to its accumulation, which will only help accelerate the process of block destruction.

A wide variety of materials can act as the second layer, all that are suitable for outdoor use. These can be plastic panels, wood or special boards made from complex polymers. The choice always remains with the consumer. It all depends on the desire and financial abilities.

One common option is to use plastic panels. They are relatively inexpensive and look great. There are a large number of colors, which allows you to decorate the outside of the house to the taste of any person.

Foreman's advice: You can save money on outer skin, but in no case should you save on isover, because the effect of warming and protecting your walls will depend on it.

The warming process is as follows:

1. Creating a frame outside the house - a frame is made to fix the insulation and plastic panels.
2. Strengthening the insulation in the frame - it is fixed so that it fits snugly against the wall of the house and does not have cracks and gaps. Thus, the ingress of moisture on the wall is almost completely excluded and the amount of condensate that forms on the walls during temperature changes is minimized.
3. Sewing the frame with an outer material - it is carried out so that there are no holes and cracks, which provides additional protection and simply provides a beautiful look.

Some materials for the top layer of insulation require additional finishing. Accordingly, you will need to choose the type of exterior finish to complete.

Insulation of buildings and structures is a fresh and relevant topic that generates a variety of materials and technologies for performing this process. Thermal insulation of aerated concrete walls from the outside is an operation that will give the building additional warmth, coziness and comfort.

At what stage of construction is it appropriate to do this?

Before answering the question of how to insulate walls made of aerated concrete from the outside, whether it is worth insulating a building built of aerated concrete blocks, it is necessary to understand the question: what is such a material as aerated concrete. So, aerated concrete (or aerated concrete blocks) is a material in shape akin to brick, cinder block, shell rock, that is, belonging to the category of cellular blocks. The production of gas blocks is carried out from quartz sand, cement, with the addition of blowing agents. Thanks to a special technology, as a result of production, a porous structure is obtained inside the building material, which is a poor heat conductor. This is also the main positive feature (along with verified shapes and sizes), which makes this building material more and more preferable compared to, for example, cinder block.

The technology, as well as the proportions of the components of different manufacturers may differ from each other. But the very physics of the process of molding and manufacturing aerated concrete blocks is the same - mixing, laying out components in molds, drying products, during which, under the influence of chemical processes, a large number of pores are formed that are responsible for the thermal conductivity of the building material.

So, it is worth noting that aerated concrete blocks are a material that is characterized by a fairly low thermal conductivity and, in a mild climate, buildings will not need additional wall insulation. But, if the region is characterized by severe winters, and the task is to reduce heating costs, the insulation of walls and facades of aerated concrete houses will be a prerequisite for putting housing into operation.

When it is necessary to insulate the walls of aerated concrete blocks

At first glance, it may seem perfectly logical to the average reader to insulate immediately after the erection of the wall of the building, or even in the process of its erection. However, this is a big misconception! It is important not to isolate aerated concrete blocks from the external environment immediately after unpacking them from their original packaging. The thing is that after forming and drying, the blocks are formed into packs, packing them with plastic wrap. Thus, the blocks retain a sufficiently high humidity, which, under the influence of negative temperatures, will certainly destroy the material, rendering the building as a whole unusable.

Thus, the insulation of a house from aerated concrete blocks can be carried out immediately only if, during the construction process, measures were taken to protect the structure and materials from moisture. Otherwise, exposure is required for 2-5 months (depending on the climatic features of the area), and only after the walls have completely dried, an insulating layer can be applied.

How to insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside

Currently, siding is becoming an increasingly common material for decorating the walls of buildings and structures outside, as a relatively inexpensive, practical and durable material. Sheathing the facades of buildings with siding is also good because there is a gap between its plates and the base of the walls, which it is advisable to fill with insulation. So, how to insulate the walls of an aerated concrete house for siding?

• penoplex - slab building material with a thickness of 3 to 5 cm, which is characterized by high thermal insulation. Penoplex plates have a dense structure. This heat insulator is one of the most popular methods for increasing thermal insulation properties structures due to ease of installation and subsequent maintenance;
• polyurethane foam - a foam-like mixture that is applied using special equipment and, bonding to the wall surface, forms an insulating layer that reliably protects the structure from cold and frost. Polyurethane foam compositions must be applied with special machines, while having some experience in working in this direction;
• mineral wool is another popular insulating material. However, experts do not recommend this component for thermal insulation of walls from the outside. It is important to remember that mineral wool easily absorbs moisture. Therefore, it is often used indoors, insulating on both sides with film barriers.

Insulation of aerated concrete from the outside with foam

Styrofoam or expanded polystyrene is one of the most common and inexpensive materials for thermal insulation of buildings, including those built from aerated concrete blocks. Why does the foam need to be fixed outside the building? The answer lies in the formation of the dew point, as a plane with a temperature difference. It is the desire to move the dew point to the outer surface of the insulating material that determines the use of foam for thermal insulation work outside the premises.

The process of arranging thermal insulation from expanded polystyrene is carried out in three stages. The first is surface preparation. The walls of aerated concrete blocks are regular in shape, they are smooth and even. All that is needed to prepare such surfaces is sealing cracks, chips, etc. with adhesives and mixtures. After the surfaces are plastered and dried, the walls are treated with a primer. And only when the primer dries, you can proceed with the installation of foam panels. Styrofoam slabs are laid along the wall area with cement-based glue, and for control, they are fixed in several places with dish-shaped dowels (umbrellas). The final stage of the work will be the installation of the siding strips themselves.

Insulation of aerated concrete house with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam - the material is akin to ordinary foam sheets. However, thanks to English production technologies, its thermal conductivity tends to zero. Thus, extruded polystyrene foam is an almost ideal material for thermal insulation of buildings and structures from the outside.

The negative point in working with this material is its low adhesion and roughness, which has an extremely negative effect on the work of adhesive mixtures. Therefore, when installing extruded polystyrene foam plates, craftsmen additionally apply notches on its surface or rub sheets to roughen the surface and ensure better contact of the material with the wall.

How to insulate aerated concrete walls with your own hands

So, it is worth recalling that the walls of a house built from can be insulated different ways. However, often experts resort to methods and methods that can be done independently, with their own hands, without the involvement of specialized organizations. For these purposes, you can use any board material that has excellent heat-resistant characteristics, and is mounted without much difficulty and without the use of additional highly specialized tools. So, do-it-yourself insulation of aerated concrete walls will mean the following sequence of actions for the owner of the house:

1. The distillation of the walls from the described material in full, that is, the completion of the construction of the box of the future house.
2. Exposure for 2-5 months to dry and remove excess moisture from aerated concrete blocks.
3. Carrying out work on thermal insulation of the building from the outside. This will require the material itself, adhesives, control dowels-umbrellas and traditional manual construction tools for drilling, mounting plates, kneading the adhesive solution, and other production processes.

Thus, it is clear that all work on the arrangement of the heat-insulating layer of the building can be done independently, without resorting to the services of specialized organizations. Adhering to the basic requirements in the production of these works, observing the installation technology, the building will certainly receive an additional thermal layer, which, in combination with heating system, will give the rooms inside comfort and coziness.