How to make ventilation in a wooden house. How to make a hood in a private house: technical requirements and an overview of installation rules Proper ventilation in a wooden house

Ventilation is one of the factors that ensure comfortable living in a house. Thanks to ventilation, exhaust air flows, including carbon dioxide, vapors, and foreign odors, exit the building.

Instead, fresh air enters the house.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation systems are classified into two types and one intermediate type:
natural air exchange;
forced air exchange;

combined devices (a combination of natural and traction stimulation). Each of the listed varieties is characterized by both advantages and disadvantages. If the building is located in an ecologically clean area, the best choice - a device with natural impulse. However, if the air is in environment

contaminated, it is better to opt for a forced ventilation system.

Natural air exchange Natural urge - traditional way

air exchange in the house. Air flows through cracks and openings in the building's building elements, and exhaust is carried out through ventilation ducts located in kitchens and sanitary facilities. The draft occurs due to the difference between the temperature and pressure levels inside and outside the building. Note! Air ducts must not be laid horizontally or at an angle. Excessive channel irregularities lead to reduced efficiency.

ventilation system Air movement pattern in

wooden house Advantages:

natural ventilation
The cost of the system is low
Installation is not difficult. Right installed system
will allow you to regulate heat exchange in all rooms of the building, even where there are no heating devices (corridor, staircases, etc.).
Clean air, first of all, enters the rooms where it is most needed (living room, bedroom).

An optimal microclimate is provided in the premises, since ventilation allows you to achieve a comfortable level of humidity.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation:
There is no way to regulate the intensity of air flows; it is difficult to combat drafts and dust penetration into the room. There is also a problem with heat leaks. In winter and summer time air exchange is activated, but in spring and summer during stagnation is observed. Artificial injection with the help of fans can correct the situation, but this does not solve the problem of heat loss in winter.
Houses made of laminated veneer lumber are airtight. Therefore, it is impossible for air to enter the room through construction gaps. The situation can be corrected by using supply wall valves.

Note! Ventilation ducts are installed in kitchen and sanitary rooms, as well as storage rooms. It is desirable that these rooms are located close to each other, then the system can be connected into a single circuit. Separate hoods are required for boiler rooms and fireplace rooms.

Forced ventilation

Forced injection of air masses has a number of advantages compared to natural ventilation. Such a system is characterized by greater efficiency and is independent of weather conditions. Forced ventilation is the only possible variant if the air in the environment is polluted. Due to filtration, only clean air free of unpleasant odors will penetrate into the premises.

Types of forced ventilation:

monoblock device;
typesetting device.

Monoblock supply and exhaust systems are ideal for small buildings because they are compact. All the main components of such a device (including heater, humidifiers, filters, recuperator) are located inside a soundproof housing. As a result, a low-noise installation can be installed near residential premises.

Kit systems include air ducts, exhaust and supply units, air heaters, filters, humidifiers, and sound insulation. The principle of operation of such a system is to take air for processing from the street supply fan. The air is filtered, heated or cooled to desired temperature, and then served to the premises.

Exhaust air ducts are directed from the kitchen, sanitary facilities, boiler rooms and other similar premises, forming unified system with access to the attic. For camouflage, air channels are laid under a suspended or suspended ceiling.

Combined ventilation

In addition to the exhaust system, natural ventilation can be installed. The latter is used only if necessary, when the exhaust system does not fully cope with its functions. Combined devices are recommended for installation in cases where polluted air masses dominate in the room (kitchen, sanitary unit, boiler room).

Ground floor

Creating a plinth requires increased costs, but ultimately provides significant additional space. Usually, in houses made of laminated veneer lumber, basement rooms are not provided, but they can be created if desired.

A ventilation system is required for the base. Both forced and natural methods of ventilating rooms are used. Natural ventilation is carried out through vents, when every 2-3 meters there is an opening for air exchange. If the building is located in a low area, a higher density of air vents is provided. The inlet hole is made under the ceiling, and the pipe goes out onto the roof.

If the ventilation system is working properly, its operation is almost unnoticeable. However, as soon as the air movement is disrupted, it becomes noticeable: condensation appears on the walls, the air in the building becomes damp, and the well-being of residents worsens due to lack of oxygen. Therefore, you need to take care of creating ventilation ducts at the stage of creating a house project.

Premises inside wooden houses They have a very good microclimate. The fact is that logs and beams are able to “breathe”, that is, pass air through the pores. However, in most cases, artificial ventilation in a wooden house is still necessary. According to SNiP standards, the air in residential premises must be changed in full every hour. Therefore, even in wooden premises may not be sufficient.

for private houses

On currently In cobblestone and log structures, only two main types are mainly used:

With natural inflow through special valves.
With forced run.

Design features with natural inflow

This kind of ventilation in a wooden house is used most often, is the simplest in design and is very inexpensive. In this case, special valves are inserted into the walls, through which fresh air from the street enters the room. The exhaust in such a system is most often natural and is a regular pipe passing through all floors. Air circulates between rooms through openings and slits in doors and walls, covered with decorative grilles.

Installation of ventilation with natural inflow

Installing such ventilation in a wooden house is very simple. First of all, holes are drilled in chopped or cobblestone walls for valves, which can be purchased at any construction supermarket. It is best to install them close to radiators. Otherwise, the rooms will be cold in winter. Next, “passages” for air are arranged in partitions, walls and doors. An exhaust riser with exits to the toilet and bathroom in wooden houses is usually present initially.

Of course, even this simple system, like natural ventilation in a wooden house, should be installed with preliminary design. The calculation of the required number of valves is carried out taking into account their bandwidth and the total volume of all rooms in the house. The same applies to the exhaust riser. If necessary, you can additionally install special fans in it.

Forced run system

This is a much more complex ventilation design. In a wooden house it is usually used only if the volume of the premises is very large. The design of such a system, among other things, may include a recuperator, flexible air ducts, filters, decorative grilles, adapters, tees, etc. Of course, this is also the most effective type of ventilation. The principle of its operation is as follows:

Fresh air enters the room through a special air intake.
It is then distributed to all rooms.
The exhaust air is removed through the exhaust air intake.

Pros and cons of ventilation systems with recuperator

A recuperator is a special device designed to take heat from the air when it is released into the street and return it to the air coming from outside. Thus, the use of this structural element in the ventilation system allows significant savings on room heating. Systems with a recuperator are more expensive than any other, but they are also considered the most efficient. Using them, effective ventilation of a bathroom in a wooden house, living room, hallway, bedroom and other rooms can be arranged.

What types of recuperators are there?

On this moment There are only three main types of such devices:

rotary;
recirculating water;
lamellar.

Ventilation in a private wooden house is most often arranged using the latest type of device. Plate recuperators really have a huge number of advantages:

Simplicity of design. Recuperators of this type have no moving parts at all, so they break less often than other types.
The absence of elements in the design that require electricity to operate.
High efficiency.

Some of the disadvantages of such devices include the impossibility of moisture exchange in them. In addition, special valves have to be installed in such recuperators, since in winter their plate heat exchanger can freeze.

The principle of the plate recuperator

The main feature of plate devices is that the air entering and exiting the room does not directly intersect with each other. Contact occurs through special plates. The latter are most often made from aluminum foil. This choice is due to the high thermal conductivity of this metal. Sometimes the plates are also made of special plastic.

Externally, such a recuperator is a regular box, from which several pipes come out, intended for attaching air ducts. They can be located either above or below. To circulate air in the recuperator, a draft and a hole are installed at the bottom of the housing for draining condensate. The design of plate heat exchangers also includes filters and a damper for defrosting. In severe cold weather, the heat taken from the outgoing flow is often not enough to sufficiently heat the incoming flow. Therefore, the design of recuperators usually also includes a heater.

Which manufacturer to choose

Effective ventilation in a private wooden house is, among other things, right choice system manufacturer. The most popular companies producing plate heat exchangers are SHUFT (Denmark), SCHRAG (Germany), ELECTROLUX, REMAK, 2W (Czech Republic). The most popular Chinese brand is MIDEA recuperators.

How to choose air ducts

At the moment, there are several types of air ducts suitable for installation in a private home:

Round. This is the most economical variety. Air passing through pipes round section, does not encounter absolutely any obstacles on its way.
Rectangular. In such pipes the air resistance is higher, and therefore more powerful fans will have to be installed in the system.
Flexible. This is the most convenient, but also the most expensive variety. Such pipes can easily be brought to the most inaccessible rooms. For example, ventilation of a bathroom and even an attic can be arranged this way.

Where to place the elements

The recuperator is usually installed in the attic. You can also place it in the basement. Since in wooden houses there is usually no internal wall cladding, air ducts have to be installed in special decorative boxes(which are quite expensive). Sometimes they are also stretched along This is more cheap way when the ventilation system is installed simultaneously with the construction of the house. However, with this arrangement, in the event of a breakdown, it will be quite difficult to get to the elements. Below is an approximate diagram (ventilation in a wooden house).

Installation of the recuperator and installation of exhaust pipes

So, let's figure out how ventilation is actually installed in a wooden house. The recuperator will need to be installed on a completely flat horizontal platform. This element of the ventilation system should be located in an easily accessible place. The fact is that the recuperator plates need to be cleaned of dirt at least twice a year.

After the recuperator is installed, begin drilling holes in the walls. They need to be drilled into solid wood. That is, in the center of the log or timber. Next, special pipes are inserted into the holes, to which the air ducts will subsequently be attached. They need to be prepared in advance. A backdraft valve and an adapter are attached to each pipe.

Air duct installation

At the first stage, the main supply and exhaust air ducts are installed. One end of them is connected to the corresponding branch pipe of the recuperator, and the second - to the branch pipe inserted into the wall. The pipes themselves should be attached to the ceiling and walls according to the design. It’s easier to use flexible foil air ducts. After the main ones are installed, wiring is done to the premises. Each room in the house should thus be connected to two pipes - supply and exhaust. In this way, ventilation of the toilet in a wooden house, ventilation of the kitchen, living room and other rooms is arranged. Flexible air ducts are mounted on special clamps. To connect the outlet hoses, adapters and tees are used.

Ventilation of floors

Experts advise that it is imperative to ventilate floors in wooden buildings. This will significantly extend their service life. Ventilation is very easy to install. In each room, in its opposite corners, ventilation grilles with connections to them are cut between the logs supply air ducts. They should be placed under heating appliances. It is better to place exhaust vents at the top of rooms, since warm used air, according to the laws of physics, rises to the ceiling.

As you can see, installing ventilation in a country wooden house is not as complicated a procedure as it might seem at first glance. In fact, the difficulty lies only in drawing up a project and calculating the required number of air ducts, the power of the recuperator, etc. It is better to entrust this work to specialists.

An exhaust hood in a wooden house cleans the air from odors, dust and protects the building from mold and corrosion. If the building area is small, you can, of course, make do with fireplace or stove pipes, as well as cracks in the walls. But it is not best options: there is a risk of constant drafts, mold formation on surfaces and even leaks. The optimal solution would be dosed supply and filtration of air through air ducts, chimneys, kitchen hood.

Types of hoods in a wooden house: nuances of work

IN modern construction There are several types of ventilation for wooden houses:

coercive system;
natural air circulation;
combined system.

The forced air purification system is equipped with fans, pumps, air conditioners and two air ducts. One is supply, the second is exhaust.

The total length of the system for correct operation must be at least 15 m.

Thanks to the presence of powerful pumps, fresh air is pumped in and stale air is removed from the basement, rooms, kitchen and bathroom. Exit occurs through gratings in the roof slopes. You can also configure the system to supply heat.

Natural circulation is the simplest and most popular method. Exhaust in a wooden house through the wall occurs with the help of valves, grilles and ventilation ducts. It randomly “collects” or pumps air.

Combined ventilation combines both methods and combines the operating principles of natural and forced air systems.

The ventilation system is regulated by the project. Calculation of the number of valves, length and configuration of channels, air duct capacity is indicated in the specifications and sketches. For optimal functioning of the ventilation system, you should adhere to the following rules:

Even during the construction of the foundation of the house, it is necessary to prepare air vents.

Vents are openings in the basement of a house left to create natural ventilation.

Kinds kitchen hoods for wooden houses

The kitchen hood occupies the first place in the disposal of dirty air. Main characteristics when choosing equipment: type, dimensions, performance and operating modes.

Depending on the configuration, mounting method and purpose, a kitchen hood can be:

Classic version above hob. The main advantage of the equipment is its availability and wide choice when purchasing. Disadvantages - not always high efficiency, the need for periodic replacement of carbon filters.
. Mounted in kitchen furniture. Usually the kit includes 2 motors and a grease trap. Provides fresh ventilation and does not differ much in functionality from other types.
Dome. Installed under the ceiling.

According to the types of fasteners, hoods are: wall-mounted, corner or island. Selected depending on the area.

When deciding which kitchen hood to install in a wooden house, you should pay attention to a number of factors. Whether it’s price or features is up to the consumer to decide. The main thing is to look at the quality of the model. After all, a hood is not only a filter, but also health and safety.

How to properly make a hood in a wooden house on your own

A rural building rarely has a ventilation shaft, so you can make a kitchen hood in a wooden house yourself.

The simplest option is to make a hole in the wall and lead corrugated or PVC pipes outside the wall.
Drill a ventilation hole above the exhaust equipment.
The height of the hood above the stove should be 70 cm.
Walls and ceiling next to kitchen stove must be isolated.
Round pipes create the least resistance and are considered the most convenient to install.

Any building is exposed to physical and weather factors. Cold, heat, temperature changes - all this negatively affects the condition of any building. This has a particularly negative effect on houses made of wood, since it reacts more strongly to the mentioned impact categories. For this reason, such buildings are in great need of ventilation.

Is air circulation necessary?

Many experts claim that buildings made of wood are “breathable”; they do not require special ventilation systems. In their opinion, it is sufficient that air enters the building through the windows, as well as the gaps between wooden elements. Previously, this probably could have been the case.

But today, wooden buildings are built in such a way that there is simply no natural ventilation in a wooden house. Builders are trying to make such a house as high quality as possible and to prevent the presence of cracks and drafts in order to save heat as much as possible.

The installation of windows and doors is also carried out as tightly as possible, and joints and gaps are treated with special substances. That is, in such a house there is simply no possibility for fresh air masses to enter the premises. Another problem arises - the exhaust air must also go somewhere. At a minimum, for these reasons there should be a ventilation mechanism in a private house. But that’s not all, because

there are other reasons.
Wood absorbs moisture very easily, which can cause it to break down and rot. Due to humidity, fungus and mold may appear.
Despite the fact that wood can pass air better than concrete, without specially forming the ventilation mechanism there is no effect.
Maintaining temperature balance. It is thanks to ventilation that it is easy to use used air masses to heat the room.

Water, heat and carbon dioxide cannot be removed by wood, which means that an air circulation system is indispensable.

In general, as you can see, the need for air circulation in a wooden house is very, very high.

Design and principle of operation To make it pleasant to be in such a building, it is necessary not only to have clean air

, he must still have the appropriate temperature. Yes, and the air must arrive at a certain speed. And the lower this indicator is, the more comfortable it is to be inside the building. Air exchange using a mechanical supply and exhaust ventilation system will be significantly greater than in the case of a natural analogue. For a system with a hood, this figure varies in the range of 3-5 cubic meters per hour, and in the version with a natural one it does not exceed one cubic meter in the same time. For this reason, natural ventilation provides slightly more comfortable conditions.

For a hood with a throughput capacity of three hundred cubic meters per hour, a channel with a diameter of 35 centimeters will be needed for natural transportation. For mechanical exhaust, you will need a channel with a diameter of only 20 centimeters. A large channel cannot always be placed in the wall. But its installation along the wall or under the ceiling, from an aesthetic point of view, may not be the best solution.

Types of systems

How exactly the air exchange will take place in a particular wooden house should be thought about before the start of construction and even before the start of the design stage. Ventilation in such a house is usually organized using a natural method. The passive option involves air flow through a number of channels:

special vents that are made on the ground floor;
window slits in wooden windows, although this option is no longer relevant today;
microcirculation mechanism in new plastic windows;
open windows and vents in summer;
supply valves, which are quite interesting modern solutions.

The first type of ventilation that you should pay attention to is passive. Passive ventilation provides for the exhaust of used air through vertical channels beyond the roof. A classic is the creation of exhaust ducts from the toilet and kitchen. IN last years optimal solution It is considered to place vertical mine hoods separately for living quarters, kitchen and toilet. And if there is reverse thrust, this avoids the risk of mixing odors.

In this case, the circulation of air masses between rooms will be ensured by a gap from the floor below door leaf. The entrance to the exhaust shaft will be at the top of the wall. To lay the shaft itself, it is best to use pipes made of metal with a minimum number of bends or plastic pipes with smooth surface.The advantages of such a system include:

low cost of arrangement;
durability;
ease of installation;
reliability;
low cost of components, which includes ventilation pipes, supply valves, ventilation grilles;
no need to spend money on electricity;
ease of operation;
ease of cleaning air ducts.

But a house made of wood, the ventilation of which is made using passive technology, has serious disadvantages:

inability to accurately regulate temperature and humidity characteristics;
the efficiency of air exchange in the summer period is significantly reduced.

Another option is active ventilation. This solution has high efficiency air exchange, the ability to accurately determine temperature and humidity values. In this case, supply equipment with a fan, humidifying mechanisms, cleaning filters and noise absorbers is used. If such a system is installed in a house with an attic floor, then you can increase its efficiency by placing a fan exhaust type. Using the system allows you to provide Better conditions in any weather and make your stay indoors comfortable. But such a system also has significant disadvantages:

high price;
difficulty in installation;
high costs of electricity and operation of such a system.

Another option that can be made is a combined solution. This solution will be especially effective if the exhaust intensity is improved by using axial category fans at the entrance to vertical air shafts. In this case, air access to the premises is carried out using natural technology, and at the exit from the ventilation system a device will be installed that causes a powerful air outflow.

Design

Creating an effective ventilation mechanism in the type of buildings under consideration involves the need for certain calculations based on the following factors:

the number of people living in the building;
air volume in the building;
a technique used that forms a field of an electrostatic nature, due to which the air composition changes and air ions disappear.

The project creation scheme will start with the implementation of air exchange calculations. This parameter will be key and it will make it possible to determine the category of ventilation. If it belongs to the natural group, then the speed of air flow will be about one cubic meter per hour. If he talks about supply and exhaust system, then the value will increase to three cubic meters per hour. The speed of movement of air masses is also taken into account. When designing natural exhaust ventilation in a wooden house, it is assumed that the speed of transport of air flows will be less than with forced ventilation.

The higher this characteristic, the lower the cross-section of the air duct will be needed. As an example, we note that to pass 300 cubic meters of air per hour through the exhaust of a forced mechanism, a cross-section of 16 by 20 centimeters or a diameter of twenty centimeters will be sufficient. Speaking of natural circulation, the cross-section should be 25 by 40 centimeters or a diameter of 35 centimeters. The calculation must be made in accordance with the following characteristics:

sanitary and hygienic requirements;
air exchange rate;
building area.

By the way, the frequency of air exchange will be directly related to the purpose of the building. Kitchen ventilation in the type of buildings under consideration has a value of factor 1. At least if we are talking specifically about the standard value. If there is an error, then the final value should be rounded up.

Note that you can ensure good air circulation yourself without the involvement of specialists. But you need to know how to use tools. First, as already mentioned, you should calculate all the indicators of the ventilation system in a wooden house. It is necessary to understand how intense the air flows are, so that you can then calculate the desired air exchange rate. Usually a value of 150-200 cubic meters per hour is sufficient. Now we determine the frequency of air exchange, that is, how many times will it take for the air in the building to be completely renewed.

To increase the efficiency of the ventilation system, the size of the building is taken into account, as well as the number of people who live in it on a permanent basis. To ensure better air exchange, it would not be superfluous to add supply valves to each room, including the toilet and bathroom. According to many, these devices make too much noise, which is actually not entirely true. The reason is that they are equipped with a special noise-insulating material. In addition, ventilation of such a house also means that you will often have to carry out the installation yourself. supply valves homemade type. But this will be necessary only when the sound insulation is not in the air duct, but only at the outlet. You can choose an exhaust fan with a power reserve, which will give you the opportunity to equip your home with the quietest devices.

If desired, ventilation in such a building can be provided by a monoblock system with filters of various purifications, as well as the possibility of low flow electrical energy. This is usually achieved through the presence of a built-in recuperator. In this case, you should definitely take into account the air flow pattern. Then warm air, according to the laws of physics, will rise up, and the cold one will remain below. For this reason, ventilation of the floor and subfloor will be extremely important, and this should also be taken into account in the calculations that will be carried out.

You should also be aware of the standards for optimal air exchange, which are specified in SNiP. These standards must be strictly observed. Only then will ventilation be able to provide comfort in the house. Speaking specifically about various rooms, then it should be said that:

in the toilet the indicator will be 30 cubic meters per hour;
in the kitchen 50, if installed electric stove, and 70 if gas is installed;
in utility rooms this figure is 15 cubic meters;
in residential premises - 30;
in the bathroom - 50.

How to install it yourself?

Now let's talk about how to make ventilation in a house made of wood with your own hands. Let's show this using the example of a building with an area of 150 square meters and the use of an air distribution mechanism with flexible corrugated air ducts.

It is best to place ventilation mechanisms in the attic in such a way as to make it as efficient as possible without damaging the roof. And along the riser and under the ceiling in the ceilings, make hidden lines for supplying and venting air on several floors of the building. You can, of course, draw a conclusion through the wall, but in this case it was decided to do it in such a way as to preserve the beauty of the building.

The installation of the mechanism starts with installation distribution boxes for 10 nests. The first box will be responsible for the air supply, and the second for the outlet. In addition, they will play the role of a muffler, since the boxes are wrapped in a two-centimeter layer of noise-absorbing material.

Now the installation of two noise suppressors and a ventilation unit equipped with a recuperator is underway. Its wall can be easily dismantled to replace air filters. Now the marking is carried out and a passage is made through load-bearing wall from wood to the street for installing an outlet that will supply fresh air to the house.

The next step is connecting the ventilation unit with noise silencers, insulating the air supply and exhaust lines and subsequent installation. If the air intake was made on the side of the house, then the exhaust air should be removed through the roof. Then the installation of the so-called passage element would be carried out. To do this, a passage is made through the roof. After installing the fungus, a pipe is connected to it, through which exhaust air will be discharged. A little lower, already in the house wall, you need to make a round hole for air intake, which should be covered with a ventilation grille.

The next step is to connect to the tap system. To do this, a connection is made between the insulated pipe of the installation and the passage in the roof. Now another insulated outlet is being installed nearby. He will be responsible for the supply and removal of air. Such a pipe can connect the kitchen hood to the installation through a kitchen socket. The next step is to place and install the ceiling linings. This must be done in accordance with the ventilation design. Subsequently, when carrying out finishing works it will be possible to make a ceiling, and then the protruding part of the boxes will be cut off, after which special poppet valves will be installed.

When this is done, flexible corrugated air ducts should be prepared. It is necessary to outline the highways, measure desired length and cut everything off exactly. Now we connect them using special rubber sealing rings and a set of strong latches. We close the nests that need to be left free with plugs. Having secured the air duct, we get a finished pipeline. After this, we finish connecting all the ceiling-type boxes and move on to flat pass-through solutions through the wall.

For installation, we adjust their thickness, attach and install the grille. If desired, you can change the grille tilt, which will allow you to direct the air flow in a certain direction. We connect the second parts of the air ducts to the distribution boxes that were mounted on the roof.

Each air duct fits into its own slot. That is, one part supplies air to the premises, and the second takes it away. And this should be the case for all highways. This completes the installation of the ventilation system in a wooden house. The final touch there will be installation of poppet valves after completion of finishing work and street ventilation grille, which should also be installed at the end of the work.

To learn how to make ventilation in a wooden house, see the following video.

Any a private house needs effective, well-equipped ventilation. This statement also applies to wooden residential buildings. Let's figure out how to ensure a favorable microclimate in them without extra financial costs, as well as extend the life of houses made of wood.

Houses made of wood - they breathe, why do they need ventilation?

Housing built from wood makes it possible to enjoy peace and comfort. In such buildings you can literally physically feel the positive energy of Mother Nature; they are filled with the aromas of the forest and freshness. Almost every person has heard that wooden buildings are breathable. Often people are sure that this is enough to create an optimal microclimate in the house. And this, of course, is not true. The point is that breathable dwellings built according to modern technologies, cannot be named.

Any developer strives to create a house in which there are absolutely no drafts, and heat is retained for as long as possible. To achieve this goal, builders use various techniques, ranging from installation plastic windows, preventing air from entering the premises, and ending with the treatment of all corners and joints of the building with special compounds and sealants. As a result of such actions, the house becomes like a tightly locked box. It is as airtight as possible. It is clear that under such conditions there is no need to talk about any wood breathing.

If the building does not receive a constant flow of air, air stagnation occurs. It becomes difficult to breathe in the house, as its microclimate leaves much to be desired. Stale air causes the appearance of various microorganisms and the development of allergic manifestations in household members. People's general health deteriorates. This cannot be tolerated. You can't rely on breathable wood. There is only one way out - to organize effective ventilation of your home. Such work can be entrusted to specialists. But it’s better to do everything on your own. This matter, believe me, is not so difficult if you understand the main features of the arrangement of different ventilation systems.

Design and air exchange standards

In the houses we are interested in, it is allowed to install forced, natural, supply ventilation. The latter type of systems can be organized using recovery (heating of incoming air) or without it. We will describe in detail all the specified ventilation options and give useful tips for their independent installation. But first, let's look at the basic rules for designing such systems.

Ideally, all ventilation parameters should be calculated by specialists. Using special tools, they establish the intensity of air flow throughout the house, and also take into account:

the number of people permanently residing in the building;
geometric parameters of premises, including bathroom, basement, toilet;
features of each room.

Based on the data obtained, the required air exchange rate is calculated for each room and the house as a whole. And this already allows you to accurately calculate the performance of the entire system and its individual parts.

If the calculation is made independently, you should know that there are standards for optimal air exchange. They are specified in SNiP. They should be strictly adhered to. Only in this case will the ventilation built in a wooden house provide a comfortable microclimate in it. Air exchange rates for different rooms are given below:

toilet - 30 cubic meters per hour;
kitchen – 50 (if the room is equipped with an electric stove) and 70 (gas stove);
utility rooms – 15;
living rooms – 30;
bathroom – 50.

After determining all the necessary technical parameters of the system, you can begin to draw up a diagram for laying air ducts, installing ventilation ducts, and installing special equipment.

Natural ventilation is not always effective, but it is simple

The natural system is the simplest option for arranging ventilation. Anyone can do this type of work. House master. With natural ventilation, the movement of air flows occurs due to the fact that heated air rushes upward. Its movement is organized along specially constructed vertical channels. It is advisable to cover the latter with plugs or equip them with valves, which will allow, if necessary, to adjust the intensity of air exchange.

Measures to organize natural ventilation always start from the basement. Air from the street must enter it first. When building a foundation, vents are made in it - small openings. As a rule, they are installed under each wall of the house. Products cannot cope with the provision of construction fresh air on one's own. Therefore, an additional supply channel should be installed at the base level. Experts advise doing it on the north wall. It is constantly exposed to a cool air, which significantly improves the draft of the entire ventilation system.

If the house made of wood is small, it is enough to organize only one supply channel. For large buildings, several of them can be made. But this is optional. High-quality air circulation can easily be achieved in another way - leaving 1.5–2 cm gaps under everyone, without exception. interior doors in the home. It is through them that fresh streams will begin to disperse throughout the house.

We will install exhaust ducts under the ceilings of all rooms. Exhaust air will be displaced through them. We arrange the outlets of these channels as high as possible above the roof line wooden house. And we cover the openings inside the rooms with decorative grilles. The selection of such products is huge. It will be easy to choose suitable grilles for the existing interior of the room.

Each room and utility room should have a separate ventilation duct.

Some craftsmen make only one hole in the roof. They pass the only channel into it and believe that they did everything right. At the first strong wind Such Kulibins will understand how wrong they were. Backdraft may form in the channel during bad weather. This will lead to the fact that the “aromas” from the bathroom will penetrate into all rooms without exception (there is only one shaft). A couple of days of living in such a house will force the experimenter to redo the entire system as needed, and not as desired.

Ventilation shafts in large wooden houses are usually made of brick. In more modest-sized dwellings, it is allowed to install channels from ready-made plastic or steel blocks. There is minimal hassle with them. And most importantly, they have a smooth inner surface which promotes good traction.

Natural ventilation does not function well in the summer. This is due to the lack of draft in the channels (the temperatures at their upper and lower points will be the same). In such situations, you will have to open the doors and windows in your home more often and ventilate it. One more thing. If the house has an attic (living area), it will also have to be ventilated according to the scheme we have already described.

How to improve a conventional ventilation system?

If natural ventilation does not provide a high-quality microclimate in the home, the problem can be solved with minimal costs funds. It is enough to install fans powered by electricity to the ventilation ducts. They significantly increase the power potential of the hood and make the atmosphere in the house fresh and pleasant. Fans are most often mounted:

in toilets;
bathrooms.

We install the electrical device directly at the mouth of the exhaust shaft. Recommended for light switch. In this case, the device will start when the lamp is turned on and turn off when the lamp is turned off.

We select the fan strictly according to the cross-section of the channel. Let's pay attention to its power. If it is insufficient, the benefit from the fan will be zero and it will have to be replaced. In some cases, in addition, you have to purchase and install another fan, which will pump air from the street into the shaft.

Supply ventilation - if you want to do everything perfectly

A hood equipped with a fan and natural ventilation are economical options for air exchange systems. They are simply installed and do not require, in fact, any regular maintenance. But their effectiveness usually leaves much to be desired. Truly high-quality ventilation of wooden house buildings is guaranteed only by supply and exhaust ventilation.It performs several important functions:

1. Directs fresh air flow into the premises.
2. Removes polluted (exhaust) air from the house.
3. Heats the air mass entering the home.
4. Cleans the flow coming from the street from dust and additionally filters it.

Supply ventilation guarantees optimal air exchange in all areas of the house, from the attic to the foundation. It consists of several separate elements. Air flow is provided by a special fan (called a duct fan), heating is provided by an electric heater. Vibrations arising during equipment operation are suppressed by a noise suppressor. Warm and dry air entering the house in the summer is saturated with moisture by a humidifier. The system also necessarily has filters that trap dust, preventing it from entering the home.

It is most convenient to purchase a ready-made kit supply and exhaust equipment. Such sets are produced by different manufacturers. Their products differ in both quality and price. The consultants of the store where you purchase the equipment will help you choose the appropriate kit. Experts advise purchasing air supply units, equipped with automatic devices for controlling and monitoring the operation of the system. They cost more conventional systems. But they are completely safe to use, which is very important for a wooden house, which has a relatively low level of fire safety.

The layout and rules for laying a particular set are indicated in the instructions for it. When installing a ventilation system, we simply follow the provisions of the equipment installation manual. There shouldn't be any serious problems. They definitely won’t exist if we take into account the following recommendations:

1. We install air ducts under the ceiling surface and hide them in the ceilings so as not to spoil the interior of the room.
2. We install the units included in the air exchange system on a slight elevation. This will protect the floors from the risk of fire and strong vibrations.
3. The supply system is assembled using plastic or metal air ducts. Their individual sections can be connected to each other using corrugated flexible pipes. Important! We use air ducts of the same section. It is prohibited to use products of different diameters. Strong air deceleration will be observed in the areas of their joints. This will result in decreased cravings.
4. We install an outlet for polluted air on the roof, and a shaft for taking in fresh air flow in the pediment of a residential building.

And one last thing. The air duct laying diagram must be drawn up correctly. We must ensure that the distance between the ventilation unit installed in the attic and the air exhaust points in each room is minimal. In this case, the system will function efficiently and flawlessly.

Checking the system operation - what have we built?

After completing all installation work and connecting electrical equipment, if provided in the system, you need to check its quality. An anemometer, a special measuring device, will give an accurate result. It is clear that a simple home craftsman does not have such a tool. No problem. We use improvised means.

We open a window in the window or a supply channel. Take a small strip of paper napkin (the thinner it is, the better). We bring this piece to the exhaust opening (to decorative grille). If the paper strip begins to stretch towards the mouth ventilation shaft, we did everything right. The system is functioning normally. Some people use a lit candle to test. This technique is only acceptable for analyzing new ventilation systems. If you bring a candle to an old mine, in which a lot of cobwebs and dust have accumulated over the years of operation, there is a high probability of the channel catching fire. It's better not to take risks.

Finally, we add that you need to constantly monitor the effectiveness of the ventilation. No special knowledge is required here. We just look to see if the walls in a wooden house are getting damp, if mold is appearing in its corners, and if condensation is forming on the windows in the fall and winter. If we notice at least one of these phenomena, we immediately perform preventive cleaning of the system. If this simple condition is met, ventilation in the home will work for decades, giving all household members an excellent microclimate and an optimistic mood in life.