Fastening the lag to the concrete floor. Proper fastening of the log to the concrete floor: using different fasteners and instructions for doing it yourself What is the best way to fix the logs to the concrete floor

The floor on the logs is a frequently used design both in wooden houses as well as in apartments. The advantages are undeniable: such a device allows you to use different materials for rough flooring, insulation and sound insulation. They can level any base, and under the floor to hold any engineering Communication. The option is simple in execution, affordable, and the result is a structure that creates a minimum load on the foundation or floor slabs.

When installing such a floor on concrete base the question inevitably arises of how to connect such different physical properties materials. Another no less interesting topic that is discussed on construction forums is whether it is necessary to attach logs to the floor at all?

Opponents of fastening argue that such a procedure can destroy the screed, in addition, sound insulation is disturbed at the junction of the lag and the base and so-called sound transmission bridges appear, and the neighbors below will definitely not like it. But supporters of rigid fixation give examples from their practice, when the deformation of wooden beams nullified all efforts to repair the floor.

How is it really? As for the destruction of the screed, then it will not work with a drill, drilling holes in the concrete, if the screed is strong enough. BUT solid foundation- one of the prerequisites, without which they do not proceed to repair the floor. The old screed, if it has already begun to fall apart, must be removed.

The soundproofing issue is debatable. Yes, indeed, rigid structures are capable of transmitting sound, but is it really that bad? A layer of insulation is laid in the cells between the lags, which has soundproofing properties.

A shock-absorbing pad is placed under the lag supports, which also prevents the spread sound waves. The sound transmission bridge formed at the place of fasteners transmits vibrations into concrete, and this material is quite dense and does not conduct sound as well as, for example, wood. Therefore, the neighbors below are unlikely to feel the difference in the noise level before and after the repair.

The floor on the logs is a structure consisting of many elements: bars, fasteners, rough flooring. All these parts, moving relative to each other, will emit a constant creak, which is much worse and the neighbors will no longer like it. One way to avoid unpleasant creaking is to firmly fasten the lag to the floor.

Another argument in favor of fastening is lag fixation. It is impossible to check the degree of drying of the tree by eye, so you have to trust the seller. If the boards are not dry enough, they can bend and twist after a while, and this will lead to shifts in the coating, so everything complex device will be skewed.

Those who are still afraid can stop at a traditional floating floor, that is, a system in which the flooring does not have a rigid connection with load-bearing structures. This guarantees excellent sound insulation, but requires well-dried logs, which will definitely not lead over time.

The rigidity of the floating floor is given by the beams securely fastened to each other, forming a lattice. A heater is placed in its cells, and a rough flooring is attached on top, so that the entire structure will be pressed to the floor by its own weight. If everything is done correctly, then such a floor will not deform over time and will last a long time.

However, most often the logs are still attached to the floor: good points with more than possible disadvantages.

Work order

1. The main thing on which the success of the repair will depend - quality materials. Coniferous wood is suitable for logs, the humidity of which is not more than 18%. The purchased bars must be brought home and allowed to lie in the room for several days so that the material gets used to the microclimate of the room. Those of the logs that began to bend in the heat - discard. By the way, everything wooden elements the future floor must be treated with an antiseptic so that they do not mold and insects do not start in them. It will also require treatment with special compounds that reduce flammability.
2. Prepare the floor: remove all debris, wipe cracks, knock down obvious protrusions. Necessarily waterproofing, since the tree must be protected from moisture. For this, hydrophobic mastics, penetrating compounds, roll materials and even thick film.
3. You will need to stock up on tools, fasteners and substrates to raise the log. The substrates must be rigid, not sagging over time, in order to prevent the occurrence of play at the support points. Thin planks, pieces of plywood will do, and in hardware stores you can buy special plastic substrates.
4. Logs are laid perpendicular to the falling through the window sunshine. Wood is subject to temperature deformations, and with such laying, each log will warm up evenly. In rooms where there is a certain direction of movement, for example, a hallway, the logs are laid across it. This will make the floor more durable.
5. Arrangement pitch bars depends on the thickness of the rough coating. The thicker and stronger the sheets, the less often you can lay logs. Usually this distance is 40-50 cm. In this case, the extreme bars are placed 2-3 cm from the wall, and the rest, depending on the width of the room.
6. When the entire crate is assembled, it is brought to a horizontal plane. The ideal option is to have level ground, some particularly diligent craftsmen even perform a thin cement-sand screed. Of course, if the height difference allows. However, the lags are good because they allow you to level even the most imperfect floor, so you can do without a screed. In those places where the beam needs to be raised, substrates are laid under it until the level shows the presence of a plane.
7. Under all supports it is necessary to put a gasket - a piece of roofing material, linoleum or polyethylene foam. It will act as a shock absorber and also provide additional waterproofing to the tree. Gaskets should never be made of soft material! It will sag over time from the load, which will lead to the appearance of backlash, and as a result, to creaking and other sounds of friction of the structural elements.

Now that the lag system is completely ready, it remains to attach them to the floor. The fastening itself is carried out in three ways: dowels + self-tapping screws, anchor fasteners and galvanized corners with self-tapping screws. Which one to prefer is a matter of budget and personal preferences of the developer, since each method has its own characteristics.

Video - How to lay logs

Fastening the lag with self-tapping screws

Perhaps the simplest and cheap option for excellent results. Through holes are drilled in the bars, and symmetrical at the base are made through them. A plastic dowel is inserted there and a self-tapping screw is screwed. Step - 40-80 cm, depending on the situation.

The length of the self-tapping screw depends on the thickness of the beam and should allow it to go into the base by 5-6 cm. By the way, some craftsmen recommend self-tapping screws with a neck, that is, those in which the thread does not reach the cap. This will allow you to better pull the lag to the floor.

Fastening lag anchors

Anchors guarantee the reliability and durability of fastening. Their main advantage in this case is that they not only hold the beam in place, but also attract it to the floor, giving the structure additional rigidity.

In fact, the anchor is the same dowel, but more powerful. Its advantage is pull-out resistance, so it is used in the installation of heavy structures that create a high load on the fasteners. The floor laid on the logs, most likely, will not have such situations when its entire complex structure will be completely torn off from the concrete surface, so you can limit yourself to self-tapping screws, but the use of anchors is a very common practice.

Mounting is carried out in the same way as in the previous case. Holes are drilled in the logs, which are then duplicated on a concrete base. The logs additionally need to be countersunk to hide the bolt head without damaging the wood.

As a rule, on the scale of a room, 3-4 anchors are enough to fix one log. The locking part of the anchor is inserted into the floor holes, and the bolt itself is screwed into it through the timber.

The length of the anchor bolts can be very different, from 45 to 200 mm. You need to buy those that will go deep into the base, stitching through the log, by 6 cm. The recommended diameter is 10 mm.

Galvanized metal corners- Another option is to attach wooden beams to concrete floor. For this, one side of the corner is connected to a beam, twisting a self-tapping screw into a tree. Depth - 3-4 cm, and it is recommended to do it at an angle to increase strength.

The remaining side of the corner should rest on the floor. It is fixed on this basis by the methods already described above: dowels or anchors. Alternatively, you can use not the corners, but the U-shaped profile.

An adjustable system is more expensive, but easier to use and will make it easier to achieve levelness. Here, instead of anchors, plastic racks screwed into a tree and attached to the base with dowels. The height can be adjusted by turning special bolts, the protruding part of which is cut off after the adjustment is completed.

So, to fix the logs to the floor or not - you have to decide on your own. In wooden houses, this should definitely not be done, and as for rooms with a concrete base, fastening will not hurt. The technology is simple and accessible to everyone, the main thing in such work is to choose high-quality materials and strictly follow all the rules. Then none of the structural elements will loosen over time, and the floor on the logs will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Video - Fastening the log to the concrete floor

Today, there are a huge number of technological possibilities for arranging a concrete floor in an apartment or a private house. You can use a variety of insulating, warming, flooring materials, apply the “warm floor” technology, level concrete surface self leveling solutions.

If a moisture-proof membrane is spread on the floor, then the logs are laid on it without a gap.

However, such an option as laying on a concrete floor does not lose its relevance. This option of flooring on a concrete floor is especially in demand in the construction of private houses, where the ceiling height allows it. In addition, laying on a concrete floor makes it quite easy to use inexpensive types of insulation materials.

For logs, dried forest of coniferous trees is most often used.

When fastening to concrete of one or another building material different fasteners and tools can be used. Mounting is quite simple. Today, even the option is becoming popular, assuming the absence of fastening the lag to the floor.

With this option, the floor structure is toughened due to the fastening of the floorboards or other flooring material. However, in this case, there is a high risk of shifting, the congress of the floor covering. So it's better to use classic version when the logs are attached to the concrete floor with self-tapping screws or anchors.

Choice

It is also important to choose the right lags themselves. In this sense, attention should be paid to the following criteria:

• suitable type of wood;
• section dimensions;
• price.

It is best to use not very expensive coniferous wood (pine, spruce, fir). At the same time, wood of 2-3 grades, dried to a moisture index of 20%, is quite suitable.

The size of the cross-section of the bars is selected depending on what kind of insulation layer will be laid between them. In addition, here you need to take into account the height of the ceiling.

If it is not very large, then you can not raise the floor much so as not to compress at all inner space rooms.

Tools for the job

The specifics of work related to fastening to a concrete floor is that you will need tools for both processing wood and drilling a concrete base. To perform standard manipulations you will need:

When setting the lags, make sure that they lay down in level.

• perforator;
• self-tapping screws with a diameter of 6 mm and a length depending on the size of the bars, with polypropylene dowels, which should enter the concrete by 6 - 8 cm;
• anchor metal fasteners (selected depending on the size of the bars);
• carpentry tools: hacksaw, plane, circular, etc.

Choose between self-tapping screws with dowels and anchors metal fasteners should take into account the planned financial costs. The first option is much more economical, the second is more reliable. Most often, dowel fastening is enough, especially since inexpensive self-tapping screws can be screwed in with a smaller step. The advantage of anchor fastenings is that they will not only fix the position of the beams, but also press them to the concrete base, which is very important in cases where the finished flooring is quite massive and is often subjected to strong mechanical external influences.

You will also need waterproofing material, which must be laid on a concrete floor before installation. Here you can use dense construction polyethylene or roofing material. You will also need mixtures for priming and antifungal wood treatment. These mixtures must be pre-treated wooden bars. If the concrete base is not quite even, then you need to stock up on material for creating linings. Boards, chipboard, plywood can come in handy here.

The process and features of fasteners

Having prepared everything necessary materials and tools, you can proceed directly to the fasteners to the concrete floor. Mounting them is not difficult and fast enough. All work can be carried out independently, without the help of an assistant. The standard version of such an attachment goes through the following steps:

Floor on logs - perfect option if the house has high ceilings.

1. First you need to lay the concrete base of the floor with roofing felt or other selected vapor barrier material. The joints of roofing felt or polyethylene sheets are glued together with construction tape.
2. Next, spread over the surface of the floor. Two of them will be laid along opposite walls. The rest are located between them with a certain step, which is calculated taking into account the density and stiffness of the material that will be laid on top. The stiffer such material, the greater the step between the lag bars. On average, such a step ranges from 40 to 80 cm.
3. If the length of the room is greater than the length of the bars, then the latter can be laid butt-to-butt. When using high logs or with large expected loads on the floor, it is necessary to make end cuts to connect the log to each other.
4. First, two parallel ones are laid along the walls. With a level and wooden plank equalize their height. A cord is stretched between them, along which all the other bars will be laid.
5. Logs are attached to concrete very simply: a hole is drilled in the bar and a corresponding hole in the concrete base. In the latter, a polypropylene dowel or spacer is laid metal anchor. Then screws or bolts are screwed in. Anchor fastenings for one beam require two or three. Self-tapping screws can be screwed in increments of 50 to 80 cm.
6. If necessary, leveling pads are laid under the log beams, which are made of boards, chipboard, plywood or other rigid material. The linings must be firmly held after the installation of the timber, so that subsequently the floor does not sag or creak. Of course, it is better to do without gaskets. May need to be cut in some places small plot on the log, if there is a slight bulge on the concrete base.

After the lags are installed, one or another can be laid between them. insulation material. Then, before laying the flooring, it is desirable to stretch the vapor barrier layer along the logs. Such a system of insulation is quite effective, and the floor is durable and warm. Thus, the concrete base of the floor can be very successfully equipped using a technologically simple fastening procedure. wooden lag to the concrete floor.

The device of a floor on logs from a bar is a very practical and easy way to get a functional flooring. In such a floor, you can install any base for the floor, lay heat and sound insulation, hide any engineering communications such as electrical wiring or a heating system.

It also creates conditions for freer air circulation in the room. In addition, a perfectly leveled surface is obtained on which any final design can be placed. decorative coating without the risk of deformation.

There is nothing difficult in installing such a coating, installation can be done on your own without the involvement of specialists, and hence additional costs. The price of this kind of work, taking into account the cost of all materials, will suit almost everyone. As a result, a structure is obtained that does not overload the foundation of the house or the ceiling between floors, but can itself withstand significant loads.

When considering this issue, doubts will inevitably arise whether it will be possible to securely fasten such materials with different physical properties to each other. In this material, we will consider fixing the log to the concrete floor.

What is the floor on the logs

The floor on the logs is a structure consisting of several functional elements:

• bars;
• fasteners;
• Black flooring.

Proper installation involves rigid fastening of all elements relative to each other in order to avoid displacement, deformation and permanent creaking of the floors. True, opponents of this method argue that the rigid fastening of the beam destroys sound insulation and contributes to the destruction of the screed.

As for the first doubt, it can be easily dispelled by studying how the lag is laid. Indeed, a rigid connection can create sound transmission bridges. But at the same time, a special shock-absorbing layer is laid under the base of each beam, which has the property of sound absorption.

Some more noise is “eaten up” by the insulation laid in the cells. In addition, solid concrete conducts sounds quite poorly, unlike wood, so it is unlikely that the noise level will noticeably change after the repair.

Ideas about the possibility of destruction are also unfounded, since a well-made screed does not crumble when trying to fix the logs. If the screed began to fall apart even before trying to fix the logs, then it needs to be removed and the floor refilled, since such a base will not provide high-quality flooring.

Another argument in favor of rigid fastening is the inability to independently check how well the materials are dried. Floating (not bonded to other elements of the system) laying will save the maximum high level soundproofing. But insufficiently dried logs will eventually bend and distort the entire complex structure.

The floating floor receives a margin of safety literally under its own pressure. In the lattice, assembled from the bars, a heater is installed, a rough flooring is laid on top. But still, it is better to give preference to rigid fixation of the log from the timber.

First of all, it is necessary to choose the highest quality materials. Great for this task conifers trees. It is necessary to ensure that its humidity is not more than 18%. After buying the bars, you should give them a little rest, leaving them to lie in the room where the floor is planned to be laid. During this time, the wood will get used to the new conditions. After that, the material must be treated with antiseptics and liquids that impede the combustion process.

After making sure that the tree is ready, you need to prepare the floor. It is cleaned of debris and dust, all cracks are sealed, bumps and protrusions are knocked off. Then you need to take care of waterproofing to protect the tree. Suitable special mastic, roll materials and even ordinary thick film.

It is required to lay substrates under the logs. You can make them yourself from thin pieces wood, plywood or plastic, as well as buy ready-made materials in hardware store. Make sure that these elements do not sag or deform, as gaps that are detrimental to wood can form because of this.

When laying, you need to make sure that the logs rise perpendicular to the sunlight falling from the window. Such laying will allow to achieve uniform heating of each beam, which will reduce the likelihood of material distortion.

If rather strong and thick sheets are chosen as a black coating, then the bars can be laid with a fairly large step. It must be assumed that the average width of the space between the lags is about half a meter, and the extreme bars are placed at a distance of a couple of centimeters from the walls.

The crate after assembly must be placed horizontally. If desired, you can level the floor with cement-sand screed, but the design of the lags allows you to lay them on the floor without additional alignment. Instead of a screed, it is enough to put pre-prepared substrates in the right places.

Each support at the bottom must be padded with a piece of rigid material that is not subject to deformation (for example, linoleum). soft materials over time, they will “fail” and lead to squeaks and noises.

Among the necessary tools:

• Perforator (or a drill with a special mode);
• fasteners;
• Tools for preparing timber and other elements.

Legs can be fixed in several ways. Each owner chooses the method that is clearer to him or more affordable for the budget. Can choose:

• self-tapping screws;
• anchors;
• corners.

Self-tapping screws are the simplest and cheap way. It is enough to drill through holes in the bars and continue them into the bases. A dowel is inserted into the hole, inside which a self-tapping screw is screwed, which should go a few more centimeters into the base.

Anchors are, in essence, almost the same self-tapping screws, only with a much greater margin of safety. They not only firmly attract the floor, but also have resistance to tearing.

It is unlikely that the floor will ever be subjected to such loads, but the method, nevertheless, remains quite popular. Two or three anchors are enough for one room in the apartment. Their length ranges from 4.5 to 20 centimeters, it is better to choose those that go to the base of the floor by 5-6 centimeters.

Metal corners are fixed on the log with one side, and on the floor with the help of self-tapping screws or anchors on the other.

There is also such a solution to the issue as the acquisition of a regulated system. It will cost more than all the listed options, but the height of the structure can be adjusted almost perfectly. The system includes special plastic bases and self-tapping screws, which are screwed in at the right level, and then the excess is cut off from above.

At the final stage, it is desirable to lay a vapor barrier layer on top of the timber. And on top of the resulting result, plywood or boards are laid. The result is a perfectly even surface on which any decorative flooring can be laid.

Keep in mind that in wooden houses it is not worth attaching logs from a bar to the floor.

No modern material does not fully replace the traditional wooden floor. True, its installation is fraught with some difficulties (the need correct selection wood for logs, their strictly horizontal mounting, careful fitting of the floorboards), however wooden floor there is still no alternative in terms of environmental friendliness.

Wooden floors have always been highly valued. It is natural, attractive and safe.

It would seem that floorboards can be laid directly on a leveled screed, however, logs are necessary to sufficiently ensure normal floor ventilation and the most optimal heat exchange in the room. Of course the fit is perfect. smooth screed will simplify the task of installing the floor log, so the very first preparatory work when installing a wooden floor, there should be maximum leveling of the base.

Required materials, tools and fasteners

As for the question of how to fix the logs, it should be said that not every type of wood is suitable for their manufacture. best material for them are coniferous trees: spruce, fir, pine and larch. As a rule, a material with a cross section goes to the bars, in which the aspect ratio is 1: 1.5. In addition, before you start fastening the log, the boards and beams must be thoroughly dried. The wood moisture index should not exceed 20%. It should be noted that the installation of a wooden floor is advisable only in rooms with high ceilings.

For high-quality fastening a lag to a concrete base requires a thorough approach to the choice of tools and fasteners. In the work it is necessary to use:

To install the log, you will need a hacksaw, a building level, a screwdriver, self-tapping screws, a construction pencil, etc.

• tools for woodworking (planer, circular saw or hacksaws, drills, etc.);
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• perforator (well, if there is universal tool, capable of chiselling, drilling, and screwing);
• self-tapping screws with a section of 6 mm with plastic dowels (plugs should be driven into concrete by 6-8 mm, and the length of the fastener depends on the thickness of the bars) or anchor screws, whose dimensions depend to the same extent on the cross section of the bar.

The choice of fasteners depends on your preferences and the thickness of the wallet, but it must be said that anchor fastening much more reliable than a dowel, since the anchor shank, when screwed into the concrete body, bursts its sleeve and tightly fixes the fasteners. Nevertheless, it is often enough to use polypropylene dowels with self-tapping screws to fix the floor lag, since most coatings will not have to experience extreme mechanical stress.

For the waterproofing device, roofing material is required.

In addition to the listed tools and fasteners, the log must be prepared for the device:

• waterproofing agent (roofing material and similar rolled bituminous materials);
• primer mixtures for processing screed and wood;
• antiseptic compounds (you can always pick up multifunctional products in the store, which will significantly speed up the process of processing the bars).

You should stock up on pieces of plywood, chipboard or wood, which may be needed as linings for logs to the floor to level the plane.

Operating procedure

So tools and expendable materials prepared. You can start attaching the lags. Work is carried out in the following order:

1. Make sure that concrete screed dry, and treat it with a primer.
2. Lay a waterproofing layer on the screed. Its adjacent sheets should be laid with an overlap of 10 cm.
3. Glue the edges of the vapor barrier tapes with bituminous compound or adhesive tape (depending on the material of the water-repellent membrane).
4. Treat the bars with an antiseptic.
5. Cut the logs according to the dimensions of the room and spread them over the floor surface. It is desirable that only 1 beam is used for each log. Joints are allowed with large sizes rooms when the length of the timber is not enough. The location of the joints on adjacent beams should not match. They must be spaced apart from each other by at least 0.5 m. There must be a support under the joints.
6. Put 2 extreme logs at opposite walls. Place the rest of the bars perpendicular to them. The distance between adjacent lags depends on the thickness of the flooring. The stride range ranges from 40cm to 100cm (more on that below).
7. Fasten the extreme lags. Using a hydraulic level and a chopping cord, set the end bars. Drill holes in them and in the concrete base, insert fasteners and fix the logs in concrete. The fastening step with self-tapping screws is from 50 to 80 cm, and the anchor screws are screwed in every 1 m.
8. Attach the cross joists to the floor. For better orientation, pull a cord between the extreme bars.

It is desirable that there are no linings under the bars, but with an uneven screed, they cannot be dispensed with. Make sure that the pads fit snugly into the space between the timber and the screed. If there is a bulge under the log on a concrete base, lightly trim the edge of the beam adjacent to this place with a planer or chisel.

Only when performing these procedures, the floor will not creak under your feet in the future.

Now back to the question of the step between the lags. Its dependence on the thickness of the floorboards is as follows:

• floor thickness 2 cm - the distance between the lags is 30 cm;
• for a board of 2.5 cm, the step is 40 cm;
• for 3-centimeter boards, the distance between the bars will be 0.5 m;
• for 35 mm, a 60 cm step is required;
• 40 mm boards are placed on logs, the distance between which is 0.7 m;
• for 45 mm flooring, a step of 80 cm is provided;
• under the floorboards with a thickness of 5 cm, the logs are attached at a distance of 1 m from each other.

Under the plywood floor, the distance between the lags is calculated a little differently. A pitch of 40 cm is enough for a 15 or 18 mm decking, and for 22 mm plywood, a spacing of 60 cm between the bars is suitable.

After mounting the bars, you can fill in expanded clay between them or lay another heat insulator. Until the flooring is laid, some communication lines can be laid. Before installing the floor on the logs, it is advisable to lay a vapor barrier film.

Laying beams on the ground

There are cases when the bars under the floor have to be laid not on a concrete base, but on the ground. To fix the logs in this way, it is necessary to clean the soil from the top layer and carefully compact it. It would be even better if the surface is covered with rubble. The backfill layer can be up to 5 cm. After leveling the rubble, waterproofing is laid on the ground.

On the walls of the building, it is necessary to mark the horizon along which the logs will be installed. Markings are made using a laser or water level and a chopping cord. First of all, bars are installed along 4 walls. Logs are placed on stands made of bricks, boards or other materials. All wood products must be treated with antiseptic compounds, and roofing material must be laid between the logs and supports. Between the brick stand and the floorboard should be wood spacer. Its thickness cannot be less than 25 mm. The distance between the extreme beams and the walls should be at least 2 cm. Threads can be pulled between opposite walls, which will serve as guidelines for mounting the beams.

Now the rest of the lags are attached. Their location should be perpendicular to the direction of the floorboards. It is recommended to lay the support bars transversely to the direction of lighting through the window opening. The step between the lags during their installation on the ground depends to the same extent on the thickness of the flooring, as well as when fastening to concrete. The cross section of the beam must correspond to the distance between the walls of the room (span):

• for a 2-meter span, a beam of 110 x 60 mm is used;
• if the walls are located 3 m apart, bars 150 x 80 mm are used;
• 4 m - 180 x 100 mm;
• 5 m - 200 x 150 mm;
• 6 m - 220 x 180 mm.

The use of logs shorter than the span when they are installed on the ground is highly undesirable.

Adjustable lags

Need to talk about modern means lag level adjustment. Manufacturers produce special racks that can change the height of the beams from 10 to 25 cm. Such devices are very useful when installing a wooden floor on an uneven base. They are threaded racks attached to the ceiling with dowels and nails. Changing the height of the beam is carried out by screwing or unscrewing the threaded rod, fixed in desired position locknut. Supports for timber can be inserted into holes drilled in its body. Often they are equipped with corners with holes through which self-tapping screws are screwed into the logs.

Despite the apparent complexity, setting the log is not so difficult. If you do not violate the installation technology, then the wooden floor within years will serve without the slightest creak and deflection of the floorboards.

Sweep and prime with penetrating primer
- With a water level we transfer the floor mark from under front door, taking into account the clean floor (which now, in general, is unknown what it will be, so I took the maximum margin - 2 cm). We transfer to the wall, raising it by 1 m.
- We make several level marks +100 mm on the walls with a water level.
- Starting down from the +100 marks, we draw a height contour (-18 mm) on the walls along the perimeter
- Calculate and draw on a sheet of paper the scheme of laying plywood sheets and the log - taking into account that the joints (longitudinal or transverse) of the sheets should lie on the log, etc.
- Linings under the logs are formed from 1 layer of glassine (to the screed) and pieces of fiberboard 3.5 (as well as layered fiberboard) 8 by 12 cm in size.
- Approximately lay the extreme log on the lining, then with a level and a tape measure we achieve three parameters- height (the contour on the wall helps), horizontality and the desired distance from the walls
- stepping on the log, we drill the log, lining and screed through the win 6.0x300, insert the plastic dowel at 6, and using the "thick" long (4x90) self-tapping screw as a doboy, drive the dowel all the way with a hammer. We unscrew the self-tapping screw, screw in a 3.5-thick self-tapping screw of suitable length, tighten it, the head sinks 1-1.5 cm in the log.
- With even planed lags, you can step over one self-tapping screw and screw in the next one, the rest later.
- We fix the log at the opposite wall
- We fasten the intermediate logs, checking the thread stretched between the extreme ones. You can lay logs through one, and then without a thread - at a level of 1 m or a short rule.
- Install all lags
- We lay glassine between the lags
- We put noise insulation on glassine (something like a thick padding polyester, although after a long search we found something natural, which we were glad about)
- We attach 2 mm soundproofing (something like thin dense foam rubber) on top of each lag over the entire surface with double-sided tape
- We put a sheet of plywood according to the scheme
- We impose on the plywood area above the lag a pattern of fiberboard - a 152cm x4cm strip with holes at an equal distance, mark the drilling points with a pencil.
- We insert a 3 mm drill into the drill until it stops - so that only 25 millimeters sticks out, we drill a hole until it stops, while the lower edge of the cartridge countersinks a hole for the screw.
- We screw 41-45 mm self-tapping screws until the head is completely buried.
- Before laying an adjacent sheet in those places where the second joint fundamentally falls into the space between the lags, we fasten (in advance!) A small bar of 10 cm exactly in the middle, the protruding part of which will be a support for the adjacent sheet, which is also screwed to it.
- Look like that's it...

Important:
- We put plywood apart
- When splicing the lag, we do not allow the repetition of the splicing place on neighboring ones in order to avoid the effect of "folding"
- At the stages of laying the lag, it is very useful to sometimes impose a sheet of plywood and see how it all turns out in reality
- When splicing the lag, we do not allow line violations - we splice by applying additional. bar on the side - so as not to guess later where to screw
- In case of uneven screed, when choosing the level of the subfloor, we take into account the level of the high point- so that even when the lag is trimmed, it does not become thinner than 30 mm.
- In the case of laying on slabs, cleaning and foaming of joints are added to the work
- About the bundle was recently posted
- Sometimes (always?) already after fixing the lag, in some places you find differences in height (the level "mumbles"). To straighten the "holes" we use additional. fiberboard gaskets with a cut to the middle (so as not to completely unscrew the screw), to straighten the bumps, either we pull out the excess, or we clean off these miserable 0.5 mm with large sandpaper. We even built a "two-handed" nazhd for this purpose. on the bar - very effective. Maybe because there was no planer in this apartment :)))

After leveling the log, the level of 1m, after a small push, slid freely across the log without stumbling - it’s very nice to watch :))) The black floor itself almost does not sound (and they were very afraid of it), and after laying the finishing (any) I think it will completely calm down.

Pine logs (dry ???) 50x50 and 50x40, distances between logs 35-45 cm, plywood FK 18, non-sanded, lag fastening pitch - 50 cm, pitch of self-tapping screws on plywood - 16 cm.

A lot of me taken from a respected forum.

I won’t write about my wife’s exclusives like “pouring a bottle of lavender oil evenly on the soundproofing under the floor”, implemented by us - this is an amateur :))))

I will be glad if it helps, as well as if there are additional. questions.
Photo here:
http://mfoto.ru/ru/470797778

And, of course, the inevitable criticism...

Sincerely,