How to make a gable roof for a bathhouse. Bathhouse roof - basic recommendations for selecting the type and construction instructions (90 photos). Collection of loads on load-bearing roof elements

Bathhouse is an indispensable addition country houses. None the most modern baths or showers cannot replace a bathhouse, these are not only premises for taking water procedures and improved health, but also a place for mental relaxation.

The algorithm for fastening rafters is largely determined by the type of rafter system. In the vast majority of cases, the bathhouse is small in size. Such parameters, on the one hand, simplify and reduce the cost of the rafter system, and on the other hand, limit the choice various options its arrangement. Currently, the following types of roofs and rafter systems are most often used for baths.

Table. Types of rafter systems for baths.

There are quite a few ways to fasten rafters; each craftsman decides on the spot, taking into account the peculiarities of the structure, the wishes of the developers and the qualifications of the contractor. But the most important factor, affecting final decision– the chosen method of fixing the rafter system should be as reliable as possible.

Methods of fastening rafters on a gable roof of a bathhouse

Such a roof is a little more complicated than a pent roof, but has undeniable advantages; therefore, gable options are used most often. The rafter system can be hanging (the ends of the legs rest against the beams ceiling) or layered (rafter legs rest against the upper crown of the frame or mauerlat). In bathhouses built from foam concrete blocks or other masonry materials, for a layered rafter system it is necessary to make a reinforcing belt around the perimeter and install a mauerlat. This greatly complicates the construction process; the method is used quite rarely. How are the rafters attached at the main nodes?

Professional builders in all cases recommend strengthening the structures of rafter systems with the help of additional supports and braces.

What and how many reinforcing elements to use when fixing the rafters is chosen by a professional on the spot. As an example, let's look at several options for attaching rafters to a bathhouse.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Video - Knots of the rafter system

Fixing rafter legs on a bathhouse made of foam blocks

The rafter legs in such baths are attached to a mauerlat mounted on a reinforcing belt. Accordingly, you need to start work by pouring the reinforcing belt and installing the Mauerlat.

1. Install formwork on the walls along the entire perimeter of the room for pouring concrete. Can be used for formwork edged boards approximately 20 mm thick, the boards are fixed to the foam blocks with ordinary nails. The concrete force is insignificant; there should be no deformation of the formwork. Align the top edges of the formwork horizontally.

Bathhouse - complicated engineering structure, the construction of which with my own hands feasible, but will require engineering knowledge and time. The roof requires special attention and calculation, since the greatest heat loss occurs through the coating - from 30 to 45%. Construction of a roof requires a balanced approach and an accurate understanding of the type, structure of the roof and the material of its covering even before construction begins.

Stages of building a roof over a bathhouse

Work on installing a roof on a bathhouse, taking into account all standards and rules, is carried out in several stages:

1. Choosing a roofing option, covering material and load-bearing structure.
2. Collecting loads, performing drawings and calculations of the supporting structure, drawing up estimates and a list of necessary materials.
3. Purchase of materials, preparation construction site and the necessary tools.
4. Construction.

Choosing a roof option

The choice of roof structure is influenced by the covering material, the purpose of the attic space - whether it will be heated with a residential attic or cold, as well as the level of wind and snow load in the region where construction is taking place.

Kinds pitched roofs, used in individual construction:

1. Single-pitch. Sloping roofs with one slope are often used to cover small structures such as bathhouses when it is necessary to build quickly and inexpensively.
   

   A pitched roof has the most simple design and is built very quickly

2. Gable. If you need a larger roof slope and want to have a full-fledged attic space, they build a more complex gable roof.
   

   A gable roof is more difficult to install, but it allows you to get a full-fledged attic space for storing bath accessories

3. Hip and half-hip. Such roofs have 4 slopes - instead of gables, the ends of the house are also covered with a slope. Roofs of this type are built in climatic regions with high wind loads. A roof in which the end slopes - hips - descend half the length of the main one roofing, are called half-hip.
   

   The hip roof resists strong winds well due to the installation of additional slopes instead of end gables

4. Tent. This is a special case hip roof, which is built over houses that are square in plan, as well as over bases that fit into a circle.
   

   A hip roof is constructed in the same way as a hip roof, but does not have a ridge, since all the hips converge at one point

5. Multi-pincer and combined. Multi-gable roofs are used to cover complex L-shaped or U-shaped buildings, and can be used simultaneously in coatings different types roof shapes.
   

   Multi-gable roofs consist of several roofing structures combined into one whole

6. Attic. This is a very popular type of roof for residential buildings. They happen the most different shapes, but they are united by the presence of a warm living space in the attic space. Such roofs are also found on bathhouses.

   The installation of an attic roof allows you to get a full-fledged living space on the second floor

The simplest option for construction is a pitched roof. It is often used when the bathhouse is attached to the main house, and with slight slopes of the roof. During construction separately standing bathhouse The most popular type of roof is the gable roof.

Roof design

Factors influencing roof design:

• snow load on the roof, which is determined based on the geographical location of the construction area;
• standardized heat transfer resistance, also depending on the climatic region. This parameter affects the choice of insulation thickness;
• weight of the structure. It depends on the roofing material;
• choice between attic and attic. Insulation of the roof above the attic affects its design and puts additional load on the rafters;
• type of bathhouse - an attached room or a separate building: the extension can be covered with a single-pitched structure, while it is more economical to complete a separate building with a gable roof;
• roof slope angle. His choice is influenced by the roof material, as well as the intended purpose of the roof space and the personal preferences of the owners.

Collection of loads on load-bearing roof elements

Snow and climatic regions are determined individually using maps attached to SP 50.13330.2010 “Thermal protection of buildings” SNiP 23–02–2003, updated edition. These maps are used to determine the specific snow load on the roof in winter period. The load from the weight of the coating varies from 6 kg/m2 (Ondulin) to 55 kg/m2 (ceramic and cement-sand tiles).

Having planned a warm attic over the bathhouse, the weight of the insulation, vapor barrier layer and internal lining of the room is added to the weight of the roof - from 30 to 55 kg/m2, depending on the type of insulation and facing material. If the attic above the bathhouse is not heated, then only the weight of the under-roofing membrane is added, which can be neglected.

Wood weight coniferous species(pine, spruce, larch), from which roof structures are most often made, is defined as the product of density and volume. The density of wood is 600 kg/m3.

Table: specific snow load depending on region

The region number is determined from the distribution map snow loads, which is produced by Roshydromet.

Each region of our country is assigned a number depending on the average intensity of snow load

The height of the passage under the roof slope is standardized and must be at least 1.6 m to allow periodic inspection of the technical condition of structures.

When choosing a roof slope angle of up to 20 o, the coating can be made of metal profiled sheets, including metal tiles; with a slope of 20 to 40 o, any roofing material can be used, except for rolled bitumen-polymer roofing materials.

Table: roof angle depending on roofing material

Structural calculation of rafters

Calculation of roof structures is carried out in accordance with SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures”, but you can use tables with averaged data. This method is much simpler, although the result will slightly exceed the design minimum, since the tables are designed taking into account the maximum loads from snow and the weight of the roof. To determine the cross-section of the rafters, it is enough to know the span of the building and set the distance between the rafters.

Table: length and cross-sectional size of rafters depending on the distance between them

When purchasing material, remember that the length of the rafters in this case is the size from support to support, that is, in fact, the rafters will be longer by the overhang of the roof eaves and trimming in the gable.

Sheathing design

The design of the sheathing depends on the coating material:

• metal tile covering on the eaves and ridge of the roof requires a continuous flooring with a width of 450 mm, the pitch of the intermediate sheathing corresponds to the transverse profile of the corrugation and is prescribed by the material manufacturer;
• Roofing made of bituminous tiles (for example, “Shingles”), tiles, low slope roofing made of corrugated sheets(Euro slate Ondulin) require continuous flooring made of boards or moisture resistant slab materials(OSB, DSP).

The Code of Rules for Roofing (SNiP II-26–76) standardizes the minimum size of sheathing elements at 30x50 mm.

Execution of a set of drawings

The set of roof drawings includes:

• roof plan;
• installation diagrams of load-bearing elements;
• detail drawings of each structural element;
• attachment points;
• section of the roof with a flag showing the layer-by-layer composition of the roof;
• statements of material requirements;
• general data on drawings with installation instructions and material requirements.

The most commonly used sections of a timber rafter system

When calculating the distance between rafters, it is necessary to take into account the presence of vertical structures, for example, a chimney.

Without an engineering education, it is impossible to make drawings, so individual builders draw elements by hand or print out detailed components from technical literature and specialized Internet sites. However The best decision- ordering a roofing project from companies specializing in this type of work. This way, all requirements of current standards will be met, which guarantees the durability of the roof structure.

Video: designing a gable roof

Photo gallery: drawings of a gable roof

On wiring diagram rafters indicate all dimensions in horizontal projection The sections show required dimensions, elevation marks, system elements and nodes are marked The design of the connection of elements has been worked out on the drawings of the units The assembly shows the required dimensions, layer-by-layer composition of the roof, and individual elements are marked. Based on the drawings, item-by-element statements are drawn up indicating quantity/volume/weight

Installation of a roofing system for a bathhouse

Let's look at the sequence of installing a roof for a bath using the example of a gable roof structure.

Required Tools

To build a roof you will need a set of measuring, cutting and carpentry tools:

• roulette different lengths from 5 to 20 meters;
• marker, pencil;
• cord along the length of the skate;
• claw hammer;
• metal scissors;
• roofing knife;
• putty knife;
• scotch;
• hacksaw, electric saw, electric drill and screwdriver, various drills and attachments for them;
• horizontal and vertical level;
• rod, ruler;
• polyurethane foam and silicone sealant.

Tools must be kept in a tool bag while working on the roof.

For the safety of work, the following is required:

• safety belt, rope;
• protective glasses;
• mittens;
• set of workwear.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gable roof

The construction of the roof begins when the beams are installed attic floor. Before starting work on the beams, running flooring is made from boards or slabs of chipboard, fiberboard, OSB, capable of withstanding the load from a person and the structure being mounted. All wooden roof structures are impregnated with a fire retardant, antiseptic and fungicide or a complex protection product against fire, rot and fungus.

All covering elements are prepared for installation on the ground using a template. The finished trusses are lifted to the installation site and temporarily secured with boards.

Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Installation of the support beam - Mauerlat. The Mauerlat, which ensures the stability of the roof and transfers the load from the roof to the walls of the house, is preferably made of dense hardwood that is resistant to rotting (oak, maple, larch). Minimum size timber 100x100 mm, most often a beam measuring 100x150 mm is used, placing it at least 5 cm from the outer edge of the wall. The beam is attached to the wall through a gasket of waterproofing material on the studs laid during the construction of the wall. The holes for the studs are placed evenly along the length of the beam, not aligned with the rafter attachment points. The holes for the studs are marked and drilled before the beam is lifted into the design position.
   

   The Mauerlat is attached to the wall with evenly spaced studs, pre-embedded in the frame

2. Assembly of the rafter system. It is easier to assemble a structure consisting of a pair of rafter legs and a tie on the ground using a template. In this case, all trusses will have identical dimensions. True, the weight of the structure can be significant, and a crane will be required for lifting.
   

   Rafter trusses are easier to assemble on the ground and then lift to the roof

3. Installation of roof trusses. First, the structures are installed at the ends of the house, temporarily securing them with mounting boards, racks and struts. For ease of installation of subsequent elements in the ridge, a cord can be pulled between the installed trusses. Then intermediate trusses are installed. After all elements of the rafter system have been installed, they are finally secured at all points and temporary supports are removed.
   

   To simplify the installation of intermediate trusses, a cord can be pulled between the outer rafters

4. Installation of a superdiffusion membrane using a counter-lattice, installation of the main lathing. Using a counter-lattice, we attach a superdiffusion membrane to the rafters. Depending on the chosen covering material, we install the sheathing - sparse or slab flooring.
   

   When installing a roofing pie, it is imperative to maintain a ventilated gap between the membrane and the roofing covering

5. Covering installation. The coating material is laid from bottom to top from the left corner. The work is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. Make all necessary connections to vertical structures(for example, a chimney), the roof ridge is covered with a special ridge element.
   

   Sheets of metal tiles are attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws with a neoprene gasket

6. Installation drainage system(if provided by the project). The drainage system protects the walls from excessive moisture. With a cornice height of up to 4 meters, its installation is not necessary, but the presence of a gutter and pipes will increase the service life of the building, and the costs will pay off handsomely. It is better to purchase a drainage system kit at the same time as purchasing the roofing material, matching the color of the roof or a contrasting color, depending on the taste of the owner. The drainage system includes:
   
7. Installation of building gables, filing of cornices. In masonry buildings, the gables are usually made from wall material. In houses made of timber or logs, the gables are sewn up after installing the rafters, securing racks and purlins to the end pairs of trusses, along which they are covered with boards or metal profiles.
   

   The gables of bathhouses are usually covered with siding or wooden clapboard along the sheathing fixed to the end truss

Lastly, the cornices are hemmed and the soffits are installed in the eaves overhang.

Video: roof, attic and rough ceiling of the bathhouse

If you do not feel able to correctly calculate the rafter system, complete the drawings and build the roof, entrust this part of the work to professionals. If you decide to overcome difficulties on your own, remember that building a roof will take more than one week, because all work requires precision and consistency.

In private construction, the construction of a bathhouse is a special ritual, which involves not only the desire to create a room for washing, but something more. The bathhouse is a reflection of the soul of the house, a place to relax in spirit and body.

The construction of a bathhouse is completed by erecting a roof over it, which must meet many quality and appearance criteria at once. We will figure out how to make a gable roof on a bathhouse on our own, and also highlight other possible options for roofing structures applicable to covering a bathhouse.

In this article

Selection and calculation of design

Depending on the plans for the attic space and aesthetic preferences, the roof for the bathhouse can be made of two types:

Before you make a roof on the bathhouse, you need to calculate it. Let us consider in detail the process of calculation and design of a gable structure, as the most popular and widespread:

• Measuring the structure and checking the level. Design begins with measuring the bath. As a rule, baths are rectangular or square structures, convenient for rapid construction gable roof. We transfer the obtained data onto paper in the form of a drawing.
  Particular attention must be paid to checking the level of the walls of the building - building regulations allow deviations from the horizontal level of no more than 1 cm per 5 linear meters.
• If the deviation is greater, this must be taken into account when laying the Mauerlat. Calculation of the slope angles and height of the ridge.

The calculation of these parameters depends on each other: the higher the ridge of the bathhouse, the steeper the slopes and the greater the usable space in the attic.

Tilt angle The angle of inclination depends on the weather conditions of the region - its choice is influenced by wind and snow loads. The steeper the roof, the better it gets rid of snow masses

The slope of the slopes also depends on the selected roofing material, each of which assumes the presence of its own interval of possible slope of the slopes. You can get acquainted with this data in specialized tables or characteristics of roofing materials.

Thus, the choice of inclination and height cannot be done “at will”, but must be the result of painstaking computational work.

Choice building materials. Design and calculations are important when choosing and purchasing building materials. Accurate calculations make it possible to determine the required beam sections for rafters and the need to create sparse or continuous sheathing. These parameters are related to the obtained roof load data.

Amount of insulation waterproofing film and roofing depends on the area of ​​the planned roof. When purchasing building materials, you should always purchase 15-20% more materials to account for potential waste due to overlapping or waste.

Having created a plan for the future roof, you can move on to the main issue - building a roof for a bathhouse with your own hands.

Construction of a gable roof for a bathhouse

Construction of the rafter system

At the core roofing structure lies a rafter system representing a complex of wooden elements:

• Mauerlat - a base that creates support for the entire structure on the walls of the building;
• Rafter trusses are elements in the form of isosceles triangles, the legs of which are the rafter legs. It is the shape of the triangle, as the most stable figure, that allows the gable roof to withstand large external loads;
• Lathing is a sparse or continuous system that allows roofing material to be attached to the rafters.

All wooden elements rafter structures are made from dried wood with a moisture content of no more than 20% without knots and cracks. Before installation, the wood is treated with special means to prevent the formation of mold, mildew and pest damage to the wood.

There are two ways to build a truss structure:

When calculating and choosing material for the rafter system, the total load on it is taken into account, which depends on the weight of the structure, snow load, etc. As a rule, rafters are made of wooden beam sections 50*100 mm.

Let's look at how to properly make a rafter system for a gable roof:

• The Mauerlat is laid on walls insulated with a layer of roofing material and attached to them anchor bolts, pins or twisting. In a bathhouse made of timber, the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crowns, fastened with staples;
• The trusses are fastened at the top with a metal plate. First of all, the outer trusses are mounted, and then, according to the level specified by them, the rest are set at a interval of approximately 60 cm. The rafter legs can be attached to the mauerlat by notching or metal elements.

Roof lathing and insulation

An important point in the construction of a roof structure is its vapor and waterproofing. The protective material is spread over the rafters with an overlap of up to 10-15 cm at the joints of the material and fixed with nails or staples. It is important to create ventilation gaps between waterproofing and roofing. To do this, a counter-lattice is created under the lathing system.

Next, the sheathing is filled, the pitch of which depends on the selected roofing material. Under soft roofs A continuous sheathing is made of moisture-resistant plywood; for other materials, the pitch of the system can be increased to 40-50 cm, depending on the slope of the slopes.

If desired, create warm roof Insulation is used in the bathhouse, which is laid on the attic side between the rafters and covered with a layer of vapor barrier material.

Installation of roofing material and pipe outlet

One of the final types of work is the installation of roofing material on the bathhouse roof. Regardless of the chosen roof, the work order will be as follows:

• Laying the first row of roofing along the eaves, maintaining the level and firmly fastening the first row of material;
• Installation of the next rows of roofing from the eaves up to the ridge. Each next row is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm with the previous one to avoid roof leaks;
• Lastly, the roof ridge is installed, the options for which vary depending on the chosen roofing material.

An important point when building a roof on a bathhouse is the question: how to make a chimney? It is most advisable to route the pipe in the bathhouse through the roof 30-50 cm from the ridge with an elevation of 50 to 100 cm above the roof. The passage of a pipe through a roofing pie, the materials of which easily and quickly catch fire, must be associated with mandatory insulation of the pipe. To do this, a special hole is made in the constructed roof, the walls of which do not allow the pipe to come into contact with the flammable elements of the roof.

The final work is the installation of a drainage system, covering the roof overhangs and cladding the roof gables.

Other types of roofs for baths: main points of design and construction

To cover the bathhouse, other types of roofs can be used - single-pitched or unequal. Compared to a gable roof, they are not as practical, but they have a number of reasons for building over a bathhouse. Let's consider their main features.

Shed roof

Let's look at how to make a bathhouse roof in the form single-pitch design. This type roofing can be used if it is necessary to cover a bathhouse of a fairly small size or in the case where the bathhouse is an extension to the main building. To use such a design, one of the walls of the building is made higher in order to obtain required angle roof slope. It is recommended to maintain a slope slope of at least 20° for less load on the floors, and in regions with snowy winters increase this figure to 45°.

Calculation and construction of a pitched roof for a bathhouse with your own hands, in principle, repeat all the points given above for a gable structure. Let us dwell on some points characteristic of a roof with one slope:

• When calculating the angle of inclination of a pitched roof, an indicator of the amount by which one of the walls of the building must be raised is taken into production. The larger it is, the steeper the erected roof will be and the less load on its rafter system;
• The support points of the rafters are the mauerlat, fixed to the walls of different levels.

The remaining operations for the construction of a pitched roof are identical to the procedure for a gable roof described above.

Roof with unequal slopes

An interesting roof option for a bathhouse is a design with two slopes of different lengths and angles of inclination. A longer and gentler slope in this case can be a canopy over the veranda adjacent to the bathhouse. Despite its apparent attractiveness, this type of roofing for a bathhouse has two disadvantages:

• Due to the small height of the roof above the bathhouse, the dimensions of the veranda will be very small;
• The dimensions of the attic are very small and do not allow it to be fully used for storing household items.

Considering that the calculations and construction of an uneven-sided roof are fraught with many difficulties, the construction of such a roof over a bathhouse is irrational.

Let's sum it up

The construction of a roof over a bathhouse generally follows the basic rules of roof construction. The predominantly small size of the baths dictates special wishes for the roof being erected, which best suits gable roof. It allows you to create a durable, comfortable and visually attractive roof over a bathhouse structure with the lowest economic and construction costs.

The construction of an object such as a bathhouse has long become a very popular and, in turn, in-demand process. Owners of many private houses want to have this product to relax their soul and body in their home. Some people prefer to hire specialists to build this structure. But there are also many who want to do the entire installation process exclusively with their own hands.

Many people want to build a bathhouse on their territory country house and you can do it yourself, the main thing is to pay attention Special attention roof installation.

One of key points In the construction of a bathhouse, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all the main stages of installation. Every element is important, its correct planning and implementation in practice.

Therefore, one of the central processes during the construction of this unique facility is. It would be a mistake to think that all elements of a bathhouse or sauna are no different from other similar objects. The features of the construction and operation of a bathhouse are completely different from similar criteria for other structures.

The roofing system of this facility is no exception. Besides external factors, which affect the period of operation of the roof, there are also many internal impacts. These include frequent temperature changes in the bathhouse, which contribute to sufficient heavy load on the roof. Based on this, you need to take the roof installation process very seriously. It is important to know all the aspects and nuances of the correct roof construction system, especially if you are going to do all the work yourself.

Basic roof parameters

For a bathhouse, two types of roof can be distinguished: attic (more advantages) and without attic.

Before you build a roof for a bathhouse, you need to clearly decide what type it will be. It is very important to make this choice correctly, and in no case is it recommended to experiment with any complex elements. Mounting an exact copy of the roof of a private house on a bathhouse would not be entirely appropriate. The main rule here is simplicity and reliability.

When starting to build a bathhouse roof with your own hands, you need to consider the following parameters:

• type of construction;
• choice of roofing material;
• number of roof slopes;
• slope angle.

The bathhouse mainly uses two structures: attic and non-attic roofs. As for the first type, many positive aspects can be highlighted here. Firstly, the attic itself is a useful device in any facility - it will be very useful in a bathhouse. Secondly, if it is done correctly, then, for example, you can hold brooms and other special equipment on it. Large attics are often used as a recreation room or as a drying area for clothes.

The second roof design option will cost you much less than the first. But, as a rule, it is relevant to make an attic-free bathhouse only if it is of relatively small size. Usually they do not exceed 14-15 sq.m. This design can be made for a small country bathhouse, which is most often used in the summer.

Sheets of metal tiles are perfect for bathhouse roofing, you just need to properly organize the “roofing pie”.

Today there is a large number of high-quality and reliable roofing material for the roof. When building a bathhouse, it is recommended to use sheet or roll types. It could be:

• ondulin;
• roofing felt;
• bitumen or asbestos cement slate;
• metal tiles;
• roofing steel.

As mentioned above, when building a bathhouse roof, the main thing is to adhere to maximum simplicity. Therefore, experts recommend making it single or gable. The first option is suitable when the bathhouse is connected to the house. Well, if you plan to create a steam room or sauna as a separate building, then it is best to make the roof gable.

The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on many factors. As a rule, it is greatly influenced by weather conditions, climate features and even the type of roof. Its parameters vary from 20 to 65 degrees. In areas where there are usually long snowy winters, the roof slopes on the bathhouse must be made at an angle of no less than 45-50 degrees, and in areas with strong winds this parameter must be minimized in order to improve aerodynamics.

Materials and tools

In order to install a roof for a bathhouse, it is advisable to prepare in advance all the materials and tools necessary for this process. The main requirement for the former is maximum quality, strength and reliability. Materials are usually selected depending on the style of the roof and its type. But for most designs you will need the following materials:

• wooden beam;
• roof insulation material;
• edged boards;
• fastening and nails;
• roofing material.

For relevant installation work you will need these tools:

• level;
• measuring tape;
• chainsaw;
• drill and screwdriver;
• ax and hammer;
• electric jigsaw;
• construction stapler and staples;
• hacksaw for wood;
• plane;
• file.

Features of installation of a roof frame system

The quality and reliability of a bathhouse roof largely depends on the phases of its construction. This condition is the same both when installing it yourself and when hiring professionals. It is necessary to follow all points very clearly and competently construction process

• roofs for baths. The first and main stage is the construction of a load-bearing frame system. It includes creating elements such as:
• Mauerlat;
• rafter system;

installation of sheathing. Mauerlat is a wooden beam that is designed to connect finished wall With load-bearing frame baths. Very an important condition installation of this element is a requirement for the quality of its surface. If the walls of the bathhouse are made of brick, gas block or foam block, then the mauerlat is installed only after their construction is completely completed. They must also be covered with a special waterproofing material

. In the case of building bathhouse walls made of wood, the topmost beam of the box can serve as the mauerlat. Under any circumstances, this roof base must be installed correctly and very securely. The entire rafter system is attached to the mauerlat. It is made in the form of a bundle of quality beams . The main function of the rafters is to take on and support the entire weight roofing system . Special elements are mounted with them: crossbars, couplers, lintels and spacers. They serve auxiliary elements

for rafters. Installing a rafter system for a bathhouse with your own hands will not be difficult. Diagram of a bathhouse with a high roof: 1 - lower trim; 2 - wood paneling ; 3 - frame racks; 4 - top harness ; 5 - fencing of the loggia; 6 - front board

; 7 - rafter leg; 8 - sheathing; 9 - strut.

The shape of the rafters depends on the characteristics of the ceiling and the type of roof. For a gable surface they are made inclined or hanging. The latter rest against the building at one end, that is, the walls of the bathhouse, and at the other they are connected to each other. Inclined - rest on the base, which is made in the middle of the object, and the mauerlat.

These “triangles” need to be connected on the ground. It is recommended to begin mounting the rafters only after complete installation all ceiling beams. First of all, it is necessary to attach the outer rafter systems to the Mauerlat using special screws. Next, using a rope, the top point or ridge is marked and the remaining rafter “triangles” are mounted. The distance between them should be approximately 1-1.3 m. After installing all the “triangles”, a canopy is mounted on the top point of the roof.

It is much easier to make a rafter system for a single-pitched surface than for a double-pitched one. In this case, the rafters will rest against the walls of the bathhouse. The greater the height difference between them, the higher the angle of inclination of the system. Accordingly, with a lower angle, all roofing work will cost you much less.

One of the disadvantages of a fairly flat pitched roof of a bathhouse is the retention of snow and rainwater on it. Roofing felt with a double layer can provide protection against such threats. It is also necessary to completely clear the roof of snow. These simple preventive measures can greatly help in this situation.

Once the rafter system is completely installed, you can begin installing the sheathing. It is made from boards or bars. The sheathing is attached to the rafters and acts as a support for more tightly fastening the roof. When installing sheet material such as corrugated sheets, the distance between the lattice elements should not exceed 0.5 m. Accordingly, for roll types roof, this value should not be more than 10-12 mm.

Insulation system and roofing works

When building a bathhouse roof with your own hands, you must pay special attention to its insulation system. To protect against destructive action To combat external and internal moisture, it is correct to use a special membrane film. The waterproofing protection system is attached to the rafters and covered with lathing on top, and the vapor barrier is between the lining and the ceiling. Membrane film It is necessary to install with an overlap of 19-20 cm and not stretched. To prevent the sheets from tearing when cooling or heating, they must be glued with tape. Basalt mineral wool is used as a heat insulator. It is placed in a checkerboard pattern in a double layer.

Do-it-yourself roofing for a bathhouse is the final stage of the construction process. Its technology completely depends on the material chosen for this work. Roofing for a bathhouse is no different from similar work on any other facility. For coating, you can use a wide variety of materials available on the market, as well as alternative types. These include clay-straw mixture, turf and even reeds. These materials are considered environmentally friendly, but they will be more difficult to install than standard ones.

Very important point In the installation of roofing for a bathhouse, the installation of the highest point or ridge for a gable roof is necessary. It is recommended to use special galvanized metal for the construction of this element. It is considered very reliable, impervious to moisture and resistant to corrosion. Externally, such a skate will look very stylish. In order for the roof of the bathhouse to have beautiful view, it is necessary to design the end part of the roof or gables accordingly. Wood is usually used for these purposes, but they can also be covered with siding. After this, the roof you make will have an excellent appearance and, most importantly, will be built correctly.

Depending on the linear dimensions of the bathhouse and the wishes of the developer, the roof in the bathhouse can be single or gable, flat or sloping. The most commonly used option is a sloping gable roof, according to its operational characteristics it is suitable for all climatic zones of our country; under such roofs it is possible to arrange residential attic spaces.

Gable roofs can be layered (often used on buildings more than six meters wide) and hanging. To increase stability, the layered roof type has additional rafter supports, hanging rafter systems have support only on the mauerlats or ceiling beams (this option is rarely used), and in the upper part of the rafters they are held by crossbars. For example, let's take the most common option - hanging gable roofs.

Hanging rafters Hanging rafters spans from 13 to 17 m
Types of layered rafters

Kinds hanging rafters Design diagram of hanging rafters Options for cornice assembly solutions

Let's take into account that the dimensions of the bathhouse are 5x5 meters, the bathhouse is made of sawn timber, the top row acts as a mauerlat. The roof is gable, hanging, without insulation.

Before starting the manufacture of rafters you need to make preliminary calculations, with their help we will determine the angle of inclination and parameters of the rafter legs.

The following loads act on the rafter system:

• permanent. Weight of the rafter system, sheathing and roofing. The weight of the roofing covering depends on the specific roofing material and is indicated by the manufacturer;
• temporary. Wind and snow loads, worker weight;
• spontaneous. Earthquakes, hurricanes, etc. Natural loads are not taken into account during calculations of the rafter system in our country due to the low probability of their occurrence.

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafters, you need to take into account the sum of the maximum values ​​of all types of loads. In order to make the calculation technology clearer, you need to understand a little about the loads acting on each individual roof unit.

The lower part of the rafter legs sits on the mauerlats; the assembly must absorb vertical and lateral loads. The crossbars only work to break and absorb horizontal loads. The upper (ridge) part of the rafter legs must absorb horizontal compression forces. Rafter spans bend under load. We hope that this knowledge will help you choose the most reliable fastening methods architectural elements in nodes.

If the weight of the roofing material is indicated by the manufacturer, then the wind and snow loads must be calculated independently.

Indicators depend on the maximum depth of snow cover in each region. Based on the snow load map, the specific area of ​​residence is determined and the maximum force is determined using the table.

Table of correction factors A – for open areas. B – for terrain with obstacles.

The region of residence is determined from the map; using the table, the correction factor is determined, depending on the height of the bathhouse and its location.

To determine the load, you need to multiply the standard value by a correction factor.

For the Moscow region, rafter parameters can be found in the table.

Practical advice: if it is difficult for you to make calculations yourself, take the dimensions of the rafter system on existing buildings of a similar type. During calculations, an inclination angle of 20° was assumed.

Instructions for manufacturing a gable rafter system

First, some tips on choosing material. For rafter legs, you can take boards 50x150 mm, the pitch between the rafters is 90 centimeters, the slope angle is 20°. Select only high-quality material, without deep cracks and bends.

It is very important - do not allow even healthy knots at the joints. To select a rafter system, you will need to carefully inspect the lumber; workpieces should be taken of increased length, taking into account the cutting of unsuitable sections from the ends.

Use only the highest quality materials for rafters

Maximum amount preparatory work must be done on a flat piece of land, it should be lifted onto the roof already ready-made designs for fastening.

Temporary fixation of the rafter system should be done with various substandard boards, they also need to be lifted to the roof in advance.

Step 1. Check the Mauerlat parameters. Check the parallelism of the opposite bars of the Mauerlat; the deviation in parallelism should not exceed ±2÷3 cm. Make sure that the Mauerlat fixing pins are installed correctly and at the required distances. Check that they are vertical.

Step 2. Making rafter legs. For the size of our bathhouse, six pairs of rafter legs are enough.

Important: if you have to make a large number of identical elements, be sure to make one template. Each individual marking produces small errors, which in total can add up to a significant amount. In addition, using a template significantly speeds up the work process.

For the rafter legs template, take 20x100 mm edged boards approximately 3 meters long. At the top, connect them overlapping with one nail (the knot should be movable), nail a horizontal section of the board to one board, it will serve as a template for the crossbar. The distance of the crossbar from the ridge part is within 40÷50 centimeters. Fix the crossbar on only one board; it is nailed to the second after selecting the angle of inclination of the rafter legs.

Lift the template onto the roof and temporarily place it at the intended location of the rafters. Change the angle of inclination and the amount of offset, making sure that the ridge is located exactly in the middle of the bathhouse. We found the optimal place - nail the crossbar to the second board, strengthen the fastening of the boards and the ridge part with a few more nails.

Again, place the prepared template on the Mauerlat and mark the location of the rafter connection. You can connect them different ways, we chose the simplest one - using a support bar and metal corners.

Attach the strip to the template in place of the support bar.

Step 3. Along the edges of the bathhouse (in the place of the gables), nail vertical bars 50x50 mm.

The height of the bars should be equal to the height of the rafter system; check their verticality, stretch a strong rope or thread between them. Now a very important job - checking the template along the entire length of the bath. Install it in increments of about one meter and look at the slope and location of the support bar. It goes without saying that the ridge part should be along the thread. Dimensional problems within one centimeter were discovered - no problem, these irregularities will be eliminated during the installation of the sheathing under the roofing. If the spread in size is greater, you need to adjust the template in such a way as to achieve its optimal average performance. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template to the ground, if necessary, additionally strengthen all the nodes.

Prices for boards

construction boards

Video - Assembling rafters

Step 4. Place the template on a flat surface and place one rafter leg against it. Pay main attention to the position of the ridge part; if there are knots, cut them off. The overhanging part of the rafters can be leveled at the last moment before installation or after the complete installation of the rafter system.

The rafters in the ridge part can be connected in several ways.

The tenon is the most reliable, but in our case it is not suitable - too thin boards. We recommend using a half-tree ridge connection.

It will be easier for you to use this option for connecting the rafters with a stop at an angle of 90°. To avoid displacement on both sides, the assembly must be fixed with metal plates on self-tapping screws, make sure that the screws are not located against each other, place them evenly over the area of ​​the rafter legs.

You can make the top connection even simpler - end-to-end. But this is quite risky; the resulting structure will be too unstable. For climatic zones It is still suitable in a warm climate, but if the snow cover in your area reaches large amounts, and there are often strong gusts of wind, then this method is not recommended.

Step 5. Make marks at the top and bottom of the rafters. In the upper part you need to cut at an angle, the connection will be butt. The cutting line should connect the top and bottom connection points of the template. It is very important - do not cut off two legs symmetrically at once; you need to take a drawing on each leg on the corresponding side. This unit is connected on both sides by metal plates with a thickness of at least 2 mm. Make sure that the screws are not opposite each other; place them as evenly as possible over the area of ​​the rafters.

Step 6. Using the template, determine the place where the rafter leg rests on the mauerlat, and secure the board that rests on the mauerlat in this place. It can be fixed from the bottom of the rafter leg to the edge of the board or from the side. This unit must withstand significant shear forces; use powerful screws or bolts to secure the stop.

Step 7 Place the two prepared rafter legs on a flat place, check their position and the placement of the nodes again with a template. Everything is fine - carefully remove the template from the boards to the side, fix the crossbar in place.

Components roof truss
Assembling a roof truss

Make sure that the upper ends of the rafters rest against each other over the entire cut area. The upper (ridge) node is considered the most loaded, it is subject to the greatest compressive forces. Small gaps can still be trimmed; if there are gaps of more than 3-4 mm, you have made the markings carelessly; you will have to trim the ends again. It is for such unpleasant cases that we recommended taking boards with a margin of length, otherwise we would have to use new material, and this increases the cost of the rafter system.

Fix the crossbar with an overlap to the rafter legs; for fixation, you need to use long bolts or studs, the nuts are tightened on both sides. Two such bolts for each leg are enough.

Do not forget that the crossbar works in compression; do not allow vibrations in the connections. In order to eliminate the risk of cracking of the rafters during installation of hardware, drill holes for them with a diameter smaller than the diameter of the stud (or bolt) by 0.5÷1 mm. The pin should fit into the holes with force. The protruding part of the stud after tightening with nuts must be cut off with a cylindrical grinder (grinder).

Prices for self-tapping screws

self-tapping screws

Video - How to cut rafters at the right angle and size

Step 8 Using the same scenario, prepare and assemble all the remaining rafters. Place them in a stack on top of each other and check the dimensions. Carefully inspect all load-bearing components. If you find problems, fix them immediately, don’t put them off until later. Firstly, it is much more convenient to do this on the ground. Secondly, “later” can be forgotten.

The set of rafter legs is assembled, place it on the roof and begin assembling the rafter system.

Installation of the rafter system

All work must be done with maximum responsibility; violations of technology or poor-quality connections will definitely make themselves felt. Repairs will have to be difficult and expensive.

Step 1. Secure the outer (gable) rafters. Temporarily fix them with scraps of boards. Carefully position each foot at all nodal points, do not rush, check each size. Stretch the ropes along the ridge and sides. It is better to pull the side ropes at the overhangs of the rafters; in this position they are easier to install.

Step 2. Mark on the Mauerlat the installation locations of the remaining rafter legs; the distance between them should be within one meter and the same.

Step 3. Carefully lift each rafter leg in turn, position it along the ropes and temporarily secure it with boards. The boards should arrive both at an angle to each leg and between the already installed rafters.

Step 4. All rafters are pre-installed - check their correct location and start fixing the nodes metal corners and strips with self-tapping screws. Metal thickness is at least 1.5 mm. Do not skimp on the corners; install them on both sides of the rafter legs. As a result, you should have a structure that is resistant to multidirectional loads. Straighten the length of the lower part of the rafter legs; they should protrude beyond the perimeter of the bathhouse by 30–40 centimeters. The dimensions should also be adjusted to fit the tensioned rope.

Metal plates for connecting rafters Rafter fasteners

Step 5. Quite often, inexperienced builders make minor mistakes; during the installation of the rafter system, they have a mutually reinforcing effect. This leads to weakening, the structure weakly resists longitudinal ridge loads, and the rafter system wobbles a little. This problem is solved by installing corner stops made of boards under the outer (gable) legs. The thrust boards, by the way, will later serve as a frame during the cladding of the gables.

Diagram of the racks that are the frame of the pediment and the additional jib

Depending on the type of roofing, the lathing is made. For soft coverings have to do continuous sheathing from plywood, OSB boards or cheap unedged boards. You can also take edged boards, but such sheathing will be very expensive.

Connection plate prices

metal connecting plates

How to make a rafter system sheathing

Let's consider two options for sheathing: solid and slatted.

The sheathing is ready, you can start covering the roof with roofing materials.

It is not worth repeating how important the roof of a bathhouse is and what consequences errors during its construction can lead to. Let's give some advice to “beginning” carpenters; this will help them feel calm throughout the entire period of operation of the bathhouse.

The more complex the type of connection individual elements rafter system - the more reliable it is. For example, a tenon joint supports both vertical and horizontal loads, while a lap joint only handles vertical loads.

We described only the simplest connection methods in load-bearing units, taking into account that many developers do not have enough experience to make complex connections. For such connections, “feel free” to use additional fasteners (metal plates and corners, homemade wooden supports, etc.). Even if you “degrade” the appearance of the rafter system a little, you will greatly increase its stability. In addition, no one except you will see the roof of the bathhouse from the inside. A emergency situation everyone will see.

Carefully select lumber for the rafter system. Try to avoid longitudinal connections of short rafters. The tree always shrinks/swells a little, which leads to changes linear parameters. And this, in turn, gradually weakens the connections.

If you have the slightest doubt about the stability of the hanging rafter system, install vertical headstock, struts, tightening, etc. Does not have of great importance a specific type of additional stops, the main thing is that they have a positive effect. An ordinary ridge beam greatly increases the resistance of the rafter system to longitudinal loads.

Two 25 mm thick boards have a bending strength that significantly exceeds the strength of a 50 mm thick board. Of course, with the same width. These are the laws of strength of materials, use them. Connect the boards together using spacers made from scraps of boards of any thickness. By the way, such “double” rafter legs are distinguished by increased stability characteristics. As for the cost of the rafter system, it remains almost unchanged.

Self-tapping screws are excellent hardware. But only on one condition - they are not made in China. These “craftsmen” use very low quality alloys for their manufacture. Even large diameter substandard hardware has very low physical strength characteristics. It’s easy to check the quality of self-tapping screws - bend it at a right angle; high-quality material should withstand at least three bends. The Chinese ones will crack, at best, on the second try.

If you have never dealt with a roof before, seek help from more experienced friends. It is not necessary to call an “expensive” mother for help; it is enough for your assistant to work as his assistant. And one last thing. Always provide for the possibility of getting under the roof. This could be a hole from the dressing room or an opening window on the pediment. With their help, you can carry out periodic inspections of the condition of the rafter system and roofing. The sooner leaks or problems with roof geometry are detected, the easier and faster it is to fix them.

Roof sheathing (supported by rafters) and gable window
A window will be inserted into the opening. You can get to the roof by placing a ladder


Stairs to the sauna attic

Video - Do-it-yourself roof for a bathhouse

Video - Installation of rafters

Video - Installation of gables

Video – Roof installation (part 1)

Video – Roof installation (part 2)