Do-it-yourself stoves on sawdust drawings. The advantages of a do-it-yourself long-burning stove that runs on sawdust. Necessary tools and materials

Important technical features

During assembly and operation, long-burning boilers are distinguished by certain technical nuances known to professionals, and which users of such devices must know:

• Chimney pipes are assembled in the direction opposite to the movement of combustion products.
• For the chimney, such a design is selected, which, if necessary, can be disassembled and scheduled cleaning can be carried out.
• Boilers must not be located near objects and materials that cannot withstand high temperatures.
• Sawdust boilers must be tested in all operating modes before use. This determines the optimal temperature regime devices and the required amount of fuel to load.

The process of making a furnace with your own hands, with the availability of materials and experience in similar work, is simple. This will require an accurate drawing, necessary materials, tools, and just one day of time.
The main condition for the subsequent correct operation unit- this is the accuracy of manufacturing, the quality of materials and connecting seams. When operating the device, it must be remembered that the boiler is a subject of increased fire hazard, and it is not worth conducting various experiments with it.

The following videos detail how to make various kinds long-burning furnaces and the principle of their operation is shown:

With rising energy prices, more and more people are setting themselves the goal of getting as much energy as possible from sources that were previously considered junk. At the same time, used oil, household waste, old car tires are considered as fuel.

Today we will talk about how to arrange a sawdust stove inexpensively and with our own hands, and this will be a unit that works on the principle of long burning.

After all, it will not be a secret for anyone that in our country there are regions where wood chips and sawdust can be used for heating almost for nothing, except for the cost of their delivery.

There are long burning stoves with connected water and air circuits. Thanks to this, the sawdust stove allows you to heat a fairly large area.

In the article on heating stoves for greenhouses, we have already considered a do-it-yourself version of a sawdust stove, but this version of the stove is able to heat a relatively small area, and this is due not to the lack of a water or air circuit, but to a small area using hot gases.

The figure shows the drawings of this furnace.

Sawdust stove from a 200 liter barrel

As can be seen, at full load, the thermal area of ​​the furnace is about 1/3 total area . In the figure, this area is highlighted with red shading.

With this arrangement, there is a loss of thermal energy leaving through the chimney. Of course, you can try to get as much heat as possible by increasing the length of the chimney through the heated room. But this is not entirely rational, and in some cases it is simply impossible due to design features premises and areas.

This stove on long-burning sawdust is good for its simplicity, because according to by and large You can make it within a few hours from improvised materials.

Problem solving - loop device

But today we are interested in a long-burning sawdust stove, which can be used to heat rooms as large as possible.

Of course, you will need to install a water or air circuit, but first let's decide the question: is it possible to of this type increase the thermal area without increasing the length of the chimney?

The first shows a long-burning furnace with an external smoke circuit. The device completely repeats the previously presented sawdust stove. The only change is in the circuit through which the hot flue gases pass and the bottom position of the chimney.

The first shows a furnace with an external smoke circuit. The device completely repeats the previously presented furnace. The only change is in the circuit through which the hot flue gases pass and the bottom position of the chimney.

As you can see, the changes made it possible to significantly increase the thermal area of ​​the long-burning furnace without increasing the length. chimney. The volume of the furnace remained unchanged.

As you can see, the changes made it possible to significantly increase the thermal area of ​​​​the furnace without increasing the length of the chimney. The volume of the furnace remained unchanged.

In the second case inner contour arranged inside an existing kiln. The thermal area also increased. The only drawback of this installation is the reduction in the loading volume of sawdust.

But there is an advantage: it will not be difficult to arrange such a circuit, the only thing that is required is installation inside a 200-liter barrel smaller diameter and rearrangement of the chimney.

As we see, minor revision will significantly increase the efficiency of using such a seemingly simple furnace.

New system on old principles

But that's not all. A homemade sawdust stove allows you to create even more efficient designs.

The picture shows a long-burning boiler with the ability to connect to a water heating system. Remarkably, the boiler can be made by hand, it works on sawdust, small chips and various household waste. But of course, first of all it is designed to work on sawdust.

Upon closer examination, our readers will notice some similarities between this boiler and. But it is not so.

The pipe passing through the cover, although it is a blower, does not have the shape of a piston and is completely motionless during operation of the boiler. This picture shows a fully charged boiler. As you can see, the pipe is recessed almost completely inside; at the "Bubafoni" it would protrude significantly from the boiler.

Materials for the device

Let's look at how to make such an oven on sawdust with your own hands.

For its manufacture, without register, you will need:

• Pipe diameter 400 mm, wall thickness 10 mm. You can, of course, use a thinner wall, but then the life of the boiler will be significantly reduced.
• Blower pipe diameter 76 mm. When burned, it can always be replaced, so the wall thickness does not matter much.
• Metal for cover thickness not less than 10 mm. In this case, the cover must be reinforced at the edges. Otherwise, it will lead from high temperature.
• Chimney pipe diameter 100 mm.

Internal stuffing

How is this boiler arranged?

The figure shows that the boiler consists of three parts:

1. Boiler with register and chimney.
2. Boiler covers.
3. Pipes blew.

In this position, the boiler is before loading the fuel.

We build a boiler on sawdust

How to make such a boiler yourself?

A plug is welded to a pipe with a diameter of 400 mm on one side. This will be the bottom of the boiler. The height of the boiler depends on your needs. Calculate in such a way that during normal operation one bag of sawdust is enough for 8-10 hours.

Our advice: a 1500 mm high boiler with a full charge can work up to 40 hours without recharging.

• A cover is cut out of metal 10 mm thick.
• The picture above shows that it is made in the form of a polygon, this is not important, it's just that it's much easier to cut thick metal if you use a guillotine.
• Exactly in the middle of the cover, it is necessary to cut a hole of such a diameter that a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm can be freely inserted into it. The gap should not be too large.

Our advice! It is quite difficult to cut a completely even hole in thick metal at home. Therefore, on lathe make a thick washer. It should be freely put on the 76th pipe and at the same time cover the irregularities in the opening of the cover. By electrowelding the washer to the lid, you will get a perfectly even hole into which the 76th pipe fits perfectly.

• On the side, in the upper part of the boiler body, it is necessary to weld a chimney outlet from a 100 mm pipe.

Making a blower

Basically, the boiler is ready. It remains to make a blower.

The figure shows how it is arranged.

• A piece with a length equal to the height of the boiler is cut from a pipe with a diameter of 76 mm.
• In the lower part, 3 or 4 pieces of reinforcement or a steel bar are welded in such a way that the blower increases in length by 100-150 mm. This is just the distance that it rises above the lid.
• By using grinder holes 100 mm long and 5-7 mm thick are cut in the blower. The quantity directly depends on the diameter of the body pipe and its height. They are located on 1/3 of the blower.

How to load fuel correctly?

The picture shows an empty firebox. How does the stove work and how to use it?

Unlike, for example, "bubafoni", the blower pipe is inserted immediately into the firebox with the pins down. They should rest against the bottom, while the blower is located in the center.

Fuel Loaded - Start

• You can ignite the fuel.
• You can set it on fire without the lid installed, but it’s better to install the lid right away, and splash some mining with kerosene or gasoline into the blower, 50 g is enough.

Our advice: to adjust the draft on the blower, you can install a damper in the chimney.

• After the fuel ignites, it is necessary to cover the damper by ¾ of the hole.
• After 2-3 minutes, the damper should be slightly opened and adjust the desired air supply.
• When the oven comes into operation, you can hear a steady buzz. With the help of the damper, the operating mode of the furnace is regulated.

We install the register for the coolant

Now you can think about connecting the boiler to the heating system. To do this, you will need to install a register at the outlet of the chimney boiler.

The figure clearly shows the installed register with the connected supply and return connected to the central heating system. This is one option, you can use a completely different one. The main thing is that it corresponds to the thermal parameters of the boiler you made and fully satisfies the volume of the installed radiator system heating.

We will not dwell on the structure of the register in detail. Let's say one thing: the closer to the boiler it is installed, the more efficiently it works.

Pipelines connected to the register

Basic rules of thermal insulation

But that's not all. You can significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler if you perform its thermal insulation.

We have talked many times on our pages about the thermal conductivity of materials. The article has a video where it is accessible to talk about such an effect as thermal radiation.

Let us briefly note that during the operation of any furnace, thermal radiation is generated that freely passes through the metal. If our boiler worked without a register, it would be great, it would easily heat the room in which it is installed.

• But after all, our boiler is mainly aimed at heating the coolant passing through the register installed on the chimney.
• This means that we absolutely do not need heat losses leaving through its walls, they must be directed into the chimney.

Lossless thermal radiation

In the above article and in the video, this issue is discussed in detail. It becomes clear that lining the boiler with bricks close to its walls will create an excess of thermal radiation in the boiler furnace, which, together with the exhausted, hot gases, will rush into the chimney. What we need, and the damper installed in the chimney after the register, will allow you to well regulate the operation of the boiler and the heating of the coolant.

It is possible to overlay the cauldron and the register basalt wool, and on top make a casing of tin.

Boiler device on a permanent basis

If there are no problems with sawdust in your region, and this heating method is the most profitable, you can install this boiler more rationally and conveniently.

The figure shows the installation diagram of the boiler:

• For its device, a pit of the appropriate size was dug.
• A foundation is laid at the bottom of the pit.
• The walls of the pit must be strengthened from sprinkling.
• The boiler is installed in the pit.
• Around the boiler, inside the pit, thermal insulation is arranged.
• The lid of the boiler is thermally insulated separately so that it can be removed.
• Heat carrier pipelines are connected.
• The register is also insulated.
• The chimney is connected.
• The boiler is ready to work.

Service? No problem!

As can be seen from the figure, excellent thermal insulation of the boiler is achieved and maintenance is greatly facilitated. With a sufficiently high boiler, loading fuel is not entirely convenient, but in this embodiment it is not difficult.

• It is enough to open the lid, which is almost at floor level, and you can load fuel.

Many may have a question: how to clean the boiler? We can assure you that there will be no problems.

• During the operation of the boiler, the fuel burns completely.
• At the end, there is a small handful of ash that fits into one scoop.
• It seems that for a person who makes sawdust stoves himself, it will not be difficult to make a brush and a long-handled dustpan.

Can the boiler be installed outside?

What else is worth noting, you can install the boiler in this way generally outside the heated room. You just need to install a box on top and insulate the pipelines well. In this embodiment, the boiler will not cause any trouble at all and will not take up extra space in the room.

Having considered the issue of constructing a boiler on sawdust, assembled by oneself, it becomes clear that with certain skills and knowledge, a quite decent heating boiler can be obtained from a simple unit.

Electronics to the rescue

We submitted an idea and considered one of the options. But if you want, you can still improve this unit:

• Install the electric boiler draft control damper.
• Install temperature sensor.
• Install smart thermostat.

By connecting all this into one circuit, you can get a boiler that can successfully maintain a given temperature.

Knowledge and skills are the key to safety and success

The installation of a highly efficient register can further increase the efficiency and will completely allow even a small house to be heated with this system.

In conclusion, a few words about security. Assembling the boiler with your own hands, do all the work efficiently and accurately. This is especially true for welding and working with a grinder.

If you do not have sufficient experience in working with these types of tools, it is better to invite a friend or hire a specialist who can perform these types of work.

Remember that any stove and boiler are fire-hazardous units, the consequences of which can be catastrophic if used improperly.

Good luck and warmth to your home!

You can heat a utility room, a greenhouse, a workshop, a garage with a stove into which sawdust and other waste from the wood industry are rammed. In some regions, they can be found for free, or extremely cheap, so these stoves are popular. The advantages include the fact that this furnace, after it is kindled, can not be approached during the entire period of fuel burning, which can be stretched for 12 hours or more.

Sawdust stove construction

The combustion of fuel takes place in a round or square shape approximately 100 liters in volume, which is considered optimal in terms of the duration of work on one tab, and, if possible, the burning of the entire pledged volume. At the bottom of the tank in the center is done round hole approximately 110 mm in diameter for air supply.

This container is placed in another large sizes, such that between their sides there is a gap of at least 50 mm. For example, you can take two barrels - one for a hundred liters, and the other for 180 liters.

In a large container on the bottom, an ash pan-blower is installed in the center - an oblong box, while the hole in the first container is directly above this blower. Thus, air enters the small container from below.

At the top of the large container, along the edge of the sides, a sand castle is made, on which the lid is installed. To do this, a corner is welded around the perimeter, the resulting gutter is covered with sand. The sides of the lid rest on it, so tightness is ensured.

For square shape optimal dimensions 40x40 cm are considered for the inner container, and 50x50 cm for the outer, with a height of 1 meter or a little more.

How does a long-burning sawdust stove work?

A long pipe with a diameter of 100 mm or more is installed in the hole in the center of a small container (the combustion power depends on the diameter), then the container is filled with sawdust, into which larger ones can be mixed wood elements, sawdust is rammed, after which the pipe is carefully removed. In the stove there is a bookmark of fuel with a through hole in the center.

It remains to set fire to the bookmark from below, for this, wood chips are laid in the ash box and set on fire. The fuel burns out from the center to the edges, the air is supplied from below, passes through the fuel and the already hot gases go down between the sides of the large and small containers, and go to the chimney connected at the bottom of the large housing.

Thus, the stove initially has a considerable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe body, which only increases the percentage of the amount of heat given off.

How the sawdust stove works - watch the video.

Is it possible to warm up from a potbelly stove - the real power of the sawdust stove

How much energy is in the sprinkled sawdust?

• We take the average calorific value of large pine sawdust as 2.5 kW / kg.
• The mass of sawdust in the barrel is about 20 kg, with their bulk density of about 200 kg / m 3, and the backfill volume of about 100 liters.
• The energy from the combustion of the entire volume is 50 kW.
• If combustion is extended for 12 hours, then on average we get 4 kW / h.

Taking into account the efficiency of not more than 50%, we get the real heat transfer of our stove no more than that of an electric heater of 2.0 kW. Which, in principle, is enough to warm up a garage or a medium-sized workshop, while being much cheaper than electric heating.

But to get a great energy return and quickly warm up a cold room using sawdust, of course, will not work ....

Ways to increase energy efficiency

Sometimes you need to get more power, for example, 5 kW instead of 2 - this is not difficult to achieve.

• Use dry sawdust, dried for a long time in heat, their real calorific value can be up to 1.5 times greater than that of wet sawdust.
• To shift sawdust with small dry firewood, their calorific value is even higher - up to 4.0 kW per kg.
• Burn faster - do larger diameter holes in the tab, - the initial volume of fuel combustion also increases, give maximum amount air...

In addition to increasing the quantity and quality of fuel, it is possible to increase the energy efficiency of the structure itself, i.e. efficiency.

• Make vertical ribs on the body.
• Leave a large length of the chimney inside the room - make an inclined chimney to the far wall with hatches for cleaning soot.

To quickly warm up the room and increase energy efficiency, you can put a small load of firewood in the stove, which will burn merrily ...

Another video about the design of the stove on sawdust and features of work

sawdust - lovely material for heating houses and greenhouses.

They are made of wood, which means that when correct use they are only slightly inferior in heat capacity to firewood.

You can get them cheap, and in some cases even is free.

• houses;
• makeshift;
• greenhouses.

Let's take a closer look at all types heating stoves and long-burning boilers that can use sawdust as fuel.

Before talking about the features of boiler houses on sawdust, you need to deal with yourself combustion mechanism this fuel, because it is very different from the mechanism of burning wood.

No matter how tightly the firewood is stacked, between them there is always air passes, and in sufficient quantity to support combustion.

Even loosely laid sawdust skips much less air, so the smoldering quickly dies out without supplying additional air to the combustion zone.

Sawdust burners work effectively only when fire moves from top to bottom. Therefore, only a layer of sawdust 2–5 cm thick is constantly burning.

Due to the fact that only a small amount of fuel is involved in combustion, power boilers on sawdust and stoves working on them, with the same with wood and coal heating appliances 2-3 times less.

Another factor that reduces the power of a boiler or furnace is low temperature burning sawdust.

If firewood burns with the right air supply, then the flame temperature exceeds 1000 degrees, often reaching 2000 degrees in tongues of fire. And this powerful fire, because the whole mass of firewood emits pyrolysis gases.

The temperature of the fire near burning sawdust, even with the right air supply, does not always reach and 1000 degrees due to low flow of pyrolysis gases.

Pyrolysis gases effectively exit only from the upper layer with a thickness 5–15 mm.

From sawdust that is burning or heated, but located below, the gas escapes with difficulty, because the sawdust located on top interferes with it.

Despite these shortcomings, sawdust perfect fit for boilers and long-burning furnaces.

After all, well-compacted sawdust burns a very long time.

Often, a home-made iron stove burns for 5–8 days from one filing of sawdust, providing heating for the entire house.

Suitable heating systems

For heating with sawdust of private houses and any buildings use such systems:

• heating stoves;
• heating furnaces with a water heating register or heater;
• water heating with radiators;
• water heated floor;
• air heating;
• air heated floor.

Heating stoves heat space around you and therefore only suitable for not big houses . At a distance of 10 meters from the oven, the temperature drops by 10-15 degrees, so in big houses the stove can only act as an additional heater.

Heating furnaces with water heating register or heater combine the advantages of furnaces and boilers. They give the same heat as a conventional heating stove and heat the coolant, which enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts.

The large mass of the furnace turns it into heat accumulator, thanks to which you do not have to re-heat the boiler every 2 hours or throw firewood into it every hour. The oven will maintain temperature coolant up to 6–10 hours, so you can heat 2-3 times a day.

Water heating with radiators in each room can be used with both a water boiler and a sawdust stove if it is built into it. water register. Like any other water heating, it can work on natural or forced circulation of the coolant.

In systems with natural circulation hot water first rises to the ceiling, then descends into each room and enters either radiators or warm floor. In systems with forced circulation water is driven by a pump, so all pipes can be laid under the floor.

Water and air underfloor heating not only heats the room, but also improves its microclimate. In winter, it is very pleasant to walk barefoot on the floor, feeling its warmth with your feet. Main lack of underfloor heating- the high cost of materials and work, because it is necessary not only to lay air ducts or water pipe, but also qualitatively insulate the space between the floor and the ground or foundation.

Air heating also costs expensive, as well as a warm floor, because it is necessary to lay air ducts throughout the house, as well as put automatic humidifiers due to the strong drying of the air. A furnace with a heater can be used as a heat source.

The difference between furnaces and boilers is only in the presence of a boiler water jacket, that is, the space between the hot body and the outer casing is filled with water.

Here distinctive features each heater:

• bake– direct heating of air and surrounding space;
• heater– air heating for delivery to other rooms without heating the surrounding space;
• furnace-heater- heating of the surrounding space and heating of air for delivery to other rooms;
• oven with register– heating of the surrounding space and water for delivery to other rooms;
• boiler– heating water for delivery to other rooms.

Therefore, heaters and boilers are installed in utility rooms and often insulated from the outside. It doesn't make sense to spend thermal energy for strong heating of the utility room, and the less heat it takes, the more other rooms will get.

Requirements for heating appliances

For heating with sawdust, it is necessary to use long-burning boilers and stoves that comply with the following conditions:

• fuel burning top down;
• big outer surface area(important for ovens);
• big heat exchanger area or water jacket;
• big firebox volume;
• possibility air supply into the combustion zone.

Due to the small size of the sawdust, it can be fed into the furnace or boiler automatically, which is even more increases battery life heating device. Most often, auger feed is used for this - a rotating auger raises or lowers sawdust from the bunker and scatters them in the combustion zone.

When there is too much ash, the heater is stopped and cooled to clear of ashes and reload with fuel.

For heating with sawdust, boilers and long-burning stoves of the Stropuva type (the Russian analogue of Bubafonya) are well suited. These devices have firewood burning principle, and air enters directly into the combustion zone.

Furnaces and long-burning boilers that run on sawdust can not only be bought, but also made by hand. AT homemade devices the requirements for heating devices described above are also implemented.

Furnaces and boilers for sawdust

There are 2 types of fireboxes, which differ in air supply method:

• above, through the descending air duct;
• from below, through a pre-made channel in sawdust.

The most famous furnaces and boilers of the first type are devices under the Stropuva brand. They are produced both in the form of furnaces and boilers.

As we said in the article (Fuel from sawdust), the difference between stoves and boilers is that the first heat the air directly, and the second heat the coolant. Then the coolant, which can be either water or air, enters the rooms through pipes and heats them.

With drop down duct

Furnaces and long-burning boilers Stropuva arranged like this:

• body is made of pipes with a diameter of 50–70 cm;
• cut into this body two doors- loading from above and cleaning from below;
• passes through the lid telescopic tube(in home-made devices it is replaced by a regular pipe great length) - air duct;
• welded to the bottom of the duct steel circle thickness 10 and a width slightly less than the inner diameter of the body;
• attached to the top of the disc. chain or steel cable for lifting the air duct;
• welded to the underside of the disk corners or channels, creating an optimal gap between the disk and the fuel;
• smoke outlet made a little higher than the cleaning door.

Such boilers and furnaces work on sawdust as follows:

• lifting the air duct with a cable or chain, the furnace or boiler is loaded with sawdust, tamping as much as possible them;
• loading sawdust, from above lay the kindling- paper and various chips;
• waiting for the kindling to flare up, lower the duct and close the loading door;
• air supply is set to maximum, due to which the top layer of sawdust flares up and the furnace / boiler goes into operating mode;
• fire and smoke rise through the space between the disc and the body and heat both the air duct and the housing;
• oven starts radiate heat, and the boiler heats up the water jacket;
• as the sawdust burns out, their level becomes lower and the air duct descends after it, such a system provides a constant flow of air into the combustion zone and optimal fuel combustion mode.

With bottom air inlet

Boilers and furnaces without a descending duct are designed and operate somewhat differently. They have the air duct goes to the furnace from below.

Such heating devices upload via flip cover. The chimney is connected just below the hinged cover.

flip cover seal asbestos cord or tape.

During loading, a long cable is inserted into the duct. wooden plug conical shape(the upper diameter is 1.5–3 times larger than the lower one).

The sawdust is compacted tightly and after the loading is completed, the plug is pulled out - air enters through the resulting channel to the upper burning layer of sawdust.

Kindling is placed on sawdust and set on fire. When the kindling has flared up, close the hinged lid by setting the chimney damper and the air supply regulator to the maximum draft mode.

After the sawdust flared up, reduce air supply and the stove or boiler goes into long burning (smoldering) mode.

Furnaces, boilers and heaters: which is better

When choosing heating that runs on sawdust, the following must be considered:

• volume of water in the water jacket the boiler should be 10–15% of the total volume of water with the heating system, therefore it is advisable to use forced movement of water through thin tubes;
• water boiler cost"Stropuva" starts from 65 thousand rubles, and the price of do-it-yourself sawdust boilers - 30-50 thousand rubles, including the cost of the material;
• air heating not only heats, but also dries the air;
• water heating pipes can be hidden under the finish, and pipes air heating have to lay in plain sight due to the large cross section (pipe diameter in cm is equal to half the area of ​​​​the room in m²);
• find industrial heaters that work on sawdust (boilers and stoves that heat air, which is then delivered through pipes to rooms) of long burning very difficult, and their cost often exceeds the price of the Stropuva boiler;
• the cost of manufacturing heaters is comparable to the price of manufacturing a boiler;
• the costs of material and laying of water and air heating are approximately the same and amount to 15-20 thousand rubles for one room measuring 15–20 m 2;
• furnace manufacturing costs are 20-50 thousand rubles depending on the size.

Heaters and boilers are well suited for heating big houses, because they heat the coolant, which then enters remote rooms through pipes or air ducts. For small houses it is preferable to have a stove installed at the junction of all rooms.

If someone is not satisfied appearance iron oven, it can be overlaid brick lattice- it will improve the appearance of the oven and will not interfere with the movement of air.

Useful video

In this video, the owner of a private house tells how prolong burning sawdust in the kiln:

Results

Cheap or free sawdust effectively replace firewood or coal as fuel for heating. However it is not worth burning them in ordinary furnaces and boilers because they are designed for other fuels.

For such heating, do-it-yourself burners on sawdust are made or ordered from a master. The cost of purchasing or manufacturing such heating appliances will pay off in 5-10 years if you have the opportunity to get sawdust for free or cheap.

In contact with

Very often there is a need to purchase a stove that runs on sawdust and small chips. This is especially true for those who have at their disposal a carpentry workshop or a woodworking enterprise in the immediate vicinity.

Sawdust is environmentally friendly, burns well, is cheap, has high temperature and duration of burning. They are used as fuel in bulk or pressed into briquettes and pellets. Sawdust stoves are good for heating greenhouses, garages, utility rooms, workshops and other similar premises. They are easy to make with your own hands from brick, metal, or by combining these materials. Most simple models collected from steel barrels, scraps of thick-walled pipes or from spent gas cylinders.

A sawdust stove without an external circuit consists of a fuel compartment, under which there is a second bottom, an opening with a door for loading firewood and a blower for oxygen to enter the stove. Also, the sawdust stove is equipped with a lid and a chimney. A metal valve is placed on the chimney to reduce heat loss.

Sawdust stove scheme

How to fire up the stove

We prepare fuel - sawdust, chips and medium-sized firewood. We load sawdust into the upper part of the firebox for 2/3 of the volume of the firebox. To do this, we insert a cone-shaped pipe, tightly press the sawdust around it. Firewood is placed in the lower part of the furnace through the blower. We remove the cone-shaped pipe, close the stove with a lid, open the damper on the chimney. We burn wood. The heat from burning wood causes the sawdust to smolder.

The principle of operation of the furnace

• Option 1

The hot furnace gases released during the combustion of fuel rise up through the channel in compressed sawdust and enter the chimney.

• Option 2

During the smoldering process, sawdust emits heat, which, in turn, rises to the furnace lid and enters the external contour of the furnace through the "board". Here, hot furnace gases cool down and are disposed of in the chimney.

We build a stove on sawdust with our own hands from a thick-walled pipe

For the fuel tank, we use a piece of thick-walled metal pipe. The optimal diameter is 40 cm. For a chimney, you need a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. In addition, it is necessary to prepare black tin or sheet steel with a thickness of at least 5 mm.

Procedure

1. Let's start making the fuel tank. To do this, cut a hole with a diameter of 10 cm in the upper part of the existing pipe.
2. Next, prepare the bottom of the oven. Cut out a circle from sheet metal. The diameter of the circle and the pipe - the firebox, respectively, are equal. To make a cut, we make a markup. We put the pipe on a sheet and circle it with a marker or a can of paint, after which we cut a circle along the contour with a grinder. In the center of this circle, it is necessary to make a hole (diameter 5-8 cm).
3. We make a pipe that provides oxygen access to the combustion zone. We take a pipe segment equal to or longer than the fuel tank. The diameter of the pipe should be equal to the diameter of the hole in the firebox (5-8 cm). Using a grinder, we cut several longitudinal lines in the pipe, or use a drill to make a perforation (at least 50 holes, diameter 0.8-1 mm).
4. We insert the perforated pipe into the hole in the bottom of the furnace and weld it. We make a cover. From sheet steel we cut out a cover of a round or polygonal shape. In the center we make a hole equal to the diameter of the perforated pipe (the lid should fit tightly on the pipe with slots) and another hole closer to the edge. It is necessary for the access of oxygen to the furnace and draft control.
5. You will definitely need a shutter. As it, you can use an ordinary metal lid from a can or cut a circle out of steel, weld a bolt vertically to the hole located at the edge of the lid, drill a hole in the flap, put it on the bolt and tighten it with a nut. Thus, an axis-shifted damper-blower will be obtained. For convenience, the lid can be equipped with two handles in the form of brackets made of metal rods.
6. We install a chimney for an exit flue gases from the combustion zone. To do this, we use a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm and the corresponding pipe, which we will connect to the pipe, connecting them with a clamp. The branch pipe is hermetically welded to the hole on the upper side of the furnace.
7. We connect the chimney, putting it on a couple. We seal the connection with heat-insulating material. From above we tighten with a wire or a strip of metal with holes for bolts.
8. The oven must be placed on a support. For support, metal profiles are required. Cut out 3-4 sections of equal length metal profile and weld them to the furnace body on sawdust.

All metal parts of the oven get very hot. It is not recommended to install the oven near flammable liquids, materials and surfaces, as well as to touch hot metal without protective gloves. Do not leave the oven unattended. By doing these few simple rules safety, you will protect your property from fire, and the stove will work efficiently, heating the room.

Sawdust stove without external circuit

The advantage of the design is that it does not require the use of a cone pipe for laying fuel and the convenience of cleaning the furnace from combustion products.

To make such a stove on sawdust, you will need a barrel / pipe / piece of a gas cylinder with a wall thickness of 5 mm. Also useful: grinder with cutting and cleaning wheels / hacksaw / chisel and hammer; welding machine; Sheet steel; metal fittings; hairpins; chimney pipes.

1. Making a fuel tank

To do this, prepare a metal barrel or pipe. If a balloon is used, then it is necessary to cut off the top from it, from which we will later make a cover. The optimal volume is 200 liters. We use a pipe segment with a wall thickness of 10 mm and an inner diameter of 40 cm. In the upper part of the fuel tank, we cut a hole with a diameter of 10 cm for the subsequent installation of a pipe attached to the chimney. In the lower part, we drill a hole with a diameter of 5 cm. Here we attach a pipe of the appropriate size with a perforation pre-drilled in it (about fifty holes of 8-10 mm each). We seal the top of the perforated pipe hermetically.

2. We weld the pipe on side wall fuel tank. It will serve as a chimney.
3. Lid on the stove

We cut out the lid from a thick sheet of metal and reinforce it with reinforcement / corners along the edges. We weld a handle on top for ease of use. If we mount the stove from a cylinder, then we fit the remaining upper part under the cover, similarly strengthening its edges.

So that the stove can be conveniently cleaned of ashes, we weld two studs to the outer sides of the stove and assemble from metal corners support structure (two corners-racks and a base in the shape of a square). Thus, to clean the oven, it will be enough to turn it over.

The furnace consists of two main parts: in the first, combustion takes place; the second is a heat exchanger.

1. We prepare two metal barrels. The thicker the walls, the more durable the structure will be. We take the first barrel with a volume of two hundred liters, the second - fifty liters. Covers can be used washing machines square section.
2. Cut off the top of the casing. From the smaller part we make a lid, reinforcing its edges with fittings or corners. Weld the handle-bracket to the lid.
3. From three corners (length 10-12 cm) we make legs. Length 10-12 cm.
4. We cut out a sheet of metal with a grinder, which we install as a partition-support for mounting the chamber in which the fuel combustion process will take place. We drill a hole with a diameter of 6 cm in the center of the partition.
5. We insert a smaller tank with a drilled hole (6 cm) inside the structure. The hole in the bottom and the hole in the baffle must match.
6. We lay the partition on a support in the shape of a triangle (stand) from steel rods welded together. The height of the support is 15 cm. We install the triangular stand itself on the bottom of the outer casing.
7. Under the partition we mount a box for collecting combustion products. The box consists of a bottom, side and end walls and a handle-bracket for easy opening and closing of the oven. We cut a 30x13 cm hole for it in the wall of the outer tank. We weld a steel box (1 mm thick) to the hole.
8. We hermetically weld a pipe into the central part of the tank, having previously cut a hole of a suitable size for it. We will connect the chimney pipe to the pipe using a clamp and heat-insulating material.

Next, we lay down the fuel, still using a cone-shaped pipe around which we carefully tamp the sawdust. Then we take out the pipe, set fire to a long match and throw it inside the channel left after removing the pipe.

To protect the metal parts of the furnace on sawdust from corrosion, we cover all parts with heat-resistant paint or a mixture of aluminum chips and liquid glass.

Video - do-it-yourself stove on sawdust