Drainage pit for a bath: varieties and do-it-yourself construction technology. We make a drain of water in a private house with our own hands How to make a drain near the house

With the advent of summer, many people leave the stuffy city and spend time in the country. But not always on suburban area there are elementary amenities, including modern sewage. With urban housing (apartment), everything is clear: all waste and sewage "go" into the centralized sewerage system, but for a summer cottage / private house that is not connected to a centralized sewerage system, this is a kind of obstacle to a good rest. But this problem is completely solvable, and a do-it-yourself drain pit will bring life in the country closer to the civilized world.

A drain pit in a private house is the simplest, moderately convenient and functional example of an autonomous sewer. This system ensures the collection of used water into the storage pit. And without this, there is no way, because a person not only drinks water, but also actively uses it - he washes, takes a shower, bath, does laundry, cooks food. Water and amenities such as the indispensable washing machine are hard to come by today. Therefore, any summer resident or just the owner of private housing should think about where to put this used liquid.

Drainage pit - choice of location

Before making a drain pit, you need to decide on the choice of its location. The question is quite difficult, because it has a number of aspects. The first aspect: a drain pit - the distance to the building should be at least five to eight meters, these parameters must be adhered to and the drain pit should not be located near the house. Another issue is the length of sewer pipes, they should not be excessively long. Well, the third side of the issue concerns the cleaning of the drain pit, that is, there must be an entrance to the sewer truck to it. And you also need to pay attention to wells and wells: if they are present on the site, then there can be no talk of a drain pit with natural filtration. The minimum distance allowed between these two objects is 30 m.

As for determining the level ground water, then this argument does not play a big role in choosing a place for a drain pit, since groundwater only affects the type of such a structure: draining or sealed.

The volume of this effluent tank

Before digging a drain hole, it is necessary to correctly determine its volume. This parameter depends on the nature of the use of housing: people live there permanently or seasonally, on the number of family members, on the frequency of using a bathhouse, shower, etc.

Appearance of a typical drain pit

This may also apply clay soil not prone to rapid filtration, therefore, if the first year the storage pit still copes with its functions, then in the future the soil will become saturated with fats and will practically cease to absorb waste. Therefore, if possible, it is better to make a drain hole with a margin, for example, for a family of three people - 6 cubes.

Pipe laying rules

If the volume is already determined, then you can start laying pipes. On this stage a very important point: maintaining a constant slope of 3-5 degrees, this is approximately 4-7 cm per meter of pipe being laid. And you also need to take into account the fact that the longer the pipe, the greater the slope must be observed.

The choice of material for the construction of a drain pit

The device of the drain pit can be different:

- brick;

- plastic;

- concrete rings

The initial stage of construction - the foundation pit

All these materials are used to equip the drain structure. The walls of the pit can be overlaid with bricks, or you can use a container as a base: a barrel without a bottom, a body from an old washing machine, car tires that stack one on top of the other.

The shape of the waste collection tank

Usually, the drain pit in the country is equipped in the form of a cube. But this is not the best option. It is more rational to use cylindrical shape, since it is known that the cylinder is a more durable figure. The loads on its walls are evenly distributed, and the probability of destruction of a cylindrical drain pit is practically reduced to zero. And quite the opposite is the case with a cubic-shaped drain pit, its walls cannot withstand the load and the probability of its destruction is significant.

Drainage pit made of ceramic bricks

So, first, a hole is dug according to predetermined sizes. High-quality soil - black soil, can be distributed on the site, and it is better to remove loam, sand, clay and stones from the yard.

How to make a drain hole out of brick? Ceramic brick - the most best option. It has positive characteristics: it serves for a long time and does not collapse from the harmful effects of moisture. It must be laid on a light foundation. The thickness of the walls can be half a brick to save money; when laying bricks, you need to remember about the gaps between the ends for filtering (5 cm).

Important: the walls of the pit can be laid out not only with bricks, but also with natural stone.

After completing the masonry in the lower part of the pit, you can begin the process of drainage backfilling. To do this, the space between the soil of the pit and the walls of the drain pit is filled with crushed stone, pebbles or construction waste(concrete, brick battle).

Important: the layer of drainage backfill should be approximately 20 cm.

Masonry is not carried out to the very ground level, but 80 cm below. At this level, a reinforced concrete slab is installed for the ceiling. It can be factory or homemade. Do-it-yourself concrete slab can be poured over the formwork (20 cm thick).

Also in this concrete structure, it is necessary to take care of the drain hatch and arrange a reliable cover in order to fully exclude the possibility of children falling into the drain pit. Optionally, you can make the ventilation of the drain pit.

Important: if the drain pit is located at the entrance of the transport, then the stove concrete floor should be thicker (at least 25 cm), plus well-reinforced.

The remaining space is covered with earth. Everything, the drain pit is ready, you can safely walk and ride on it, and you can also plant a flower bed for the beauty of the yard, then such a device will not spoil the design of the site.

Construction of concrete rings

For people who want to make a drain tank on the site, the question often arises: how to make a drain hole from concrete rings? A drain pit made of reinforced concrete rings is easy to build, you don’t need special qualifications for this work, but you just have to work hard physically.

Stages of work:

• At the site where the planned placement of the drain pit, the first ring is installed. Under it, the soil is selected and the ring is lowered.
• The second ring (with the same size) is installed on the first ring. The edges of such rings have protrusions, it is thanks to them that the sewer rings are assembled into a single structure.
• The soil is selected until the second ring is also lowered.
• The drain pit may consist of 2-3 rings or more, depending on the planned size.

Important: the upper last ring must necessarily rise above ground level by 20-30 cm.

• The hole for the outlet pipe is easiest to make with a puncher using a drill bit. And if this is not the case, then you need to draw a circle on the ring for the location of the drain pipe, drill it with an ordinary drill, and then knock it out.
• From above, the drain pit is covered with a solid cover: reinforced concrete, cast iron.

A video clip will tell you how to remove sludge when digging a drain hole with your own hands.

Little tricks of arrangement

It is clear that sooner or later you will have to call a sewage truck for the fence Wastewater. But how to make a drain hole, so to speak, "long-playing"? There are several nuances that will help prolong the cleaning of the pit. First of all, you can divide the drain. That is, in addition to the main drain pit, equip another pit, but only a smaller one. Water without solid waste will be drained into it (from the washing machine, from the bathroom, shower). The water in the smaller drain pit will quickly drain into the ground, as there will be no accumulation of fat deposits on its walls.

And secondly, you can take advantage of the achievements of modern science. To do this, you need to purchase special tools consisting of a biological basis. This is a unique liquid with bacteria. Such bacteria recycle waste, drainage is cleaned, and the infiltration of water runoff into the soil improves.

The technology for arranging drain pits (with bricks and concrete rings) is simple and quite doable on our own, without involving a team professional workers. And the benefits of such a device are enormous: comfort, convenience and reliability.

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the country, to be closer to nature, fresh air and earth. But there one unpleasant discovery awaits them - the absence of the usual urban amenities, one of which is sewerage. There is no centralized system traditional for the city, therefore, for a comfortable stay, you have to lay pipes for wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drain pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

The modern dacha is fundamentally different from village houses last century. Economic townspeople replaced toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilet bowls, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should the dirty used water go?

This is how an elementary sewer system appeared: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank installed in a summer cottage outside the building. Different structures can act as a storage tank: an expensive biological treatment plant, a simpler device - a septic tank or a cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage through pipes enter the store, from where they are taken out at different intervals by special equipment.

Regular pumping out of the contents of the waste pit is a prerequisite for its use. The only way effective cleaning drive - call for vacuum trucks

Most vacationers, especially those who spend only their summer holidays in the country, dream of installing a suitable drive quickly and cheaply. The ideal option in this case is a do-it-yourself drain pit. For its construction, it will take several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised material: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each tenant. But you need to take into account the incalculable consumption of water during water procedures and use household appliances, therefore a tank of at least 6 m³ is required for a family of 4.

The slope of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for the full pumping of sewage by sewage equipment - a specially provided hose that is lowered to the bottom

The size of the structure depends on the volume of incoming effluents, but there are certain boundaries. For example, the depth of a country drain pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage equipment simply cannot cope with cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, the length is 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The soil level should exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against spillage of sewage beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to make a pit for a drain pit, so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to a residential building, a water source and the nearest obstacles

There are a number of rules:

• The minimum distance from the house to the drive is 5 m.
• The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
• The hole must be on open space not surrounded by buildings or fences.
• A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage truck.

It is necessary to consider the drain pit as an object heightened danger, so the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

An example of the construction of a brick pit

Stage #1 - earthworks and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so it is better to use an excavator if possible. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits and cylindrical configurations can also be found. During digging, the condition of the walls should be monitored: they should be even and protected from shedding.

If you haven't had to do it before brickwork, it is better to choose a rectangular building: straight walls and corners are easier to form

Features of the device of the drain pit largely depend on the material. Let us consider in more detail the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15 cm sand cushion, then a concrete layer, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multilayer base, iron can be installed on the bottom concrete slab suitable sizes.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for the construction of the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is made traditional way- with a shift of the brick by half in the next row. The minimum thickness of the masonry is 0.25 m. Brick walls are partially permeable, but how to make the drain hole airtight? And it's very simple - you need to use bituminous mastic or a similar waterproofing solution.

During the construction of the pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand, such as boards and beams left over from the construction of the house, are used.

Attention! Bitumen-based mastics cover only absolutely dry walls.

Stage # 3 - installation of the overlap

The most durable is the reinforced concrete floor. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have a too short service life. It is better if the upper part of the structure is blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. The structure for the concrete floor is created in several stages. The first layer of mortar (5-7 cm) is poured, then iron bars are laid on it, covered with a second layer of concrete on top. When the overlap is completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

Only the manhole cover remains visible on the surface of the earth. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal.

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drain pit, just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

• Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and ennoble it yourself, and to clean it, just call the sewers.
• Independence of installation from soil type. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
• Protecting groundwater from pollution. Concrete bottom and brick walls prevent runoff from penetrating into the ground, but if it seeps out, soil bacteria can handle the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should also consider its negative sides. One of the tangible troubles is the periodically occurring smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

A well-equipped road leading directly to the waste pit is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. Road construction is best done at the stage of building a house

It is necessary to get used to frequent visits to the sewers - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting occur. The service life of a brick drive is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool ceases to suit, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological wastewater treatment.

One of the most important stages in the arrangement of the bath is the organization of timely disposal of wastewater in treatment plant. Most affordable option sewer system - a drain pit for a bath.

To provide safe use drainage system, before starting work, it is recommended to carefully study its design features and perform the necessary calculations, and at the construction stage, follow the main recommendations of specialists.

Types of drain holes

There are three types of waste pits: a sealed tank, a drainage pit, and a multi-chamber septic tank.

A sealed cesspool is the simplest and safest construction option, which prevents the penetration of polluting effluents and household chemicals into the soil and aquifer. It is being built on land plots with high levels of groundwater.

The design is represented by a simple sealed tank dug into the ground to the required depth. A feature of the cesspool is the need for regular pumping of accumulated water runoff. TO significant shortcomings a sealed tank can be attributed to the complexity and high cost of maintenance.

A drainage pit for draining is the most popular option for private baths that do not have bathrooms. In this case, an open container is arranged that does not have a sealed base. A gravel-crushed stone mixture is used as a bottom filter. Design drainage pit provides for the presence of special holes necessary for the withdrawal of the purified liquid into the soil.

The primary sealed chamber provides for the collection and initial filtration of wastewater: solid waste sinks to the bottom, and the liquid undergoes additional purification by aerobic microorganisms. The tank is connected to the second compartment by an overflow pipe, which provides the supply of purified liquid. The second chamber performs the function of a drainage pit, where water undergoes secondary purification and is discharged into the soil.

If the septic tank consists of three compartments, then the drainage chamber is installed last. In this case, more than deep cleaning from impurities and pollutants, after which the purified liquid enters the drainage tank.

Available materials for building a drain pit

Choice suitable material for the construction of a drain drainage pit under the bath depends on design features facilities, the volume of wastewater and the financial capabilities of the owner of the site.

barrel pits

Tanks can be built from barrels, metal and plastic, of various sizes. Such a system involves the use of one or two drainage tanks:

• One container. The bottom of the prepared pit is covered with a drainage mixture of crushed stone and gravel, then a plastic container without a bottom and with a perforated surface is lowered into it. The distance between the barrel and the pit is covered with drainage. A waste pipe is connected to the barrel at an angle. Part of the liquid through drainage holes will enter the soil for further purification.
• Two containers. Such a system involves the use of two barrels, with the first set 25 cm above the second. The tanks are connected to each other by an overflow pipe. Effluent enters the first tank, in which third-party impurities and solid waste settle. Further, the purified liquid is poured into the second tank, to which perforated pipes for drainage are connected. Waste elements are installed in trenches filled with drainage material and a dense layer of soil.

brick pits

For the arrangement of drain pits, ceramic bricks are used, the laying of which is carried out with small gaps - they provide drainage into the drainage pad and soil. The principle of operation of such a drainage system does not differ from the previous one, the difference lies in the material used. The distance between the brick tank and the earthen base is filled with drainage material designed to clean the drains and distribute them around the perimeter of the pit.

A brick pit is considered more durable and practical than a plastic barrel construction.

concrete pits

With technical equipment and financial capabilities, it is possible to build a drainage pit from concrete rings with a perforated surface, which are mounted in a prepared pit. After the installation of the rings is completed, the bottom of the structure is covered with a drainage cushion made of gravel and crushed stone.

In the case when the depth of the pit is at least 2 meters, and the bottom of the tank is concreted, such a structure can be used both for draining effluents from the bathhouse and for sewerage of a residential building.

Pits from tires

Cesspools from used tires are designed to drain liquid waste, so they are well suited for the needs of a bath.

The arrangement of the drain system during the installation of tires can be carried out in various ways, including lateral perforation of the walls, maintaining the technological gap between the installed slopes, cutting the outer walls while maintaining internal structure tires.

This is the simplest and most popular option for organizing drainage under the bath, according to which the work can be done by hand.

Step-by-step arrangement of a drainage pit for a bath

Now let's consider a question that interests many - how to make a drain hole for a bath with your own hands. The easiest option for beginners is a drainage pit from a barrel. A metal barrel with a volume of up to 250 liters is used as a drain tank.

First you need to choose a suitable place for the pit. The distance from the foundation of the bath to the cleaning device should be from 3 to 7 meters. When determining the depth of the sewer pit, it is important to consider the total volume of runoff and groundwater. Optimal value- no more than 7 meters.

The process of arranging a pit for drains provides for a phased implementation of work.

Pit preparation and pipe laying

• Preparation of the construction site for the pit. From the base of the bath, an earthen ditch should be dug, having the necessary slope for convenient drainage. The average slope is 4 degrees per linear meter. The bottom is insulated and covered with drainage from gravel and sand. A drainage pipe is laid on the pillow, connecting the steam room and the waste pit.
• Next, they dig a pit and also insulate. At the bottom, a drainage pillow is made of gravel and crushed stone (thickness up to 25 cm).

Drain tank preparation

• The side surfaces of the barrel are perforated with a grinder in increments of 18 cm in a checkerboard pattern.
• A hole is made in the bottom for mounting the pipe, which will be connected to the drain pipe with a fastening sleeve. The connecting joint is treated with sealant from the inside and outside.
• The barrel is wrapped with geotextile material, which will ensure reliable drainage of wastewater and prevent foreign objects from entering the container. Geotextiles are fixed over the entire surface with twine or construction tape.

Installation of the tank in the pit

• The barrel is installed on a drainage cushion so that the pipe is located on top.
• All formed voids between the walls of the pit and the barrel are covered with fine gravel.
• The branch pipe is connected to the sewer pipe laid earlier.

Features of laying a sewer pipe

Laying a drainage pipe is an important stage in the arrangement. According to building codes, the pipe is laid at the stage of foundation construction. It is located at the bottom of the base with a slope towards the drainage pit. When pipe laying is required for the finished building, installation is carried out under the floor of the steam room.

To properly install the pipe, the following rules must be observed:

1. Bends, turns and joints are not allowed during installation of the product. This can lead to blockages in any part of the pipe.
2. After the installation of the drainage system is completed, a concrete screed of the bath floors is carried out with a slope towards the drain hole. After the screed has completely dried, the floor is tiled or porcelain stoneware, on top of which wooden lattices of a removable type are installed. They will provide protection against burns in direct contact with a heated floor covering. In addition, the grids are easily dismantled for drying and treatment with antiseptic compounds.
3. The drain is closed with a protective grate to prevent possible clogging of the sewer pipe.

Important! Bath floors do not require additional insulation. With high-quality concreting and cladding, such a base warms up during the heating process and prevents the penetration of cold from the outside.

How to make a drain hole for a bath is a question that will not take the owners of such buildings by surprise. After all, organize reliable system drainage from improvised materials and without involving construction team It is not difficult, the main thing is the attitude and a serious approach to business.

Plumbing, bathroom and toilet work country house requires the arrangement of a competent system for the collection and disposal of wastewater. And if, in the presence of a centralized sewage system, it is enough to obtain permission and make an insert into the communal system, then in the absence of the benefits of civilization near the site, the problem of waste disposal will have to be dealt with independently. Currently there are options to address this issue, including factory cleaning systems, but the simplest option so far is the cesspool, a structure proven by more than one generation of homeowners. This type of sewage tank is good because it can be easily built with your own hands, and the emergence of new technologies and materials makes it possible to do this in record time.

Design features

Depending on the design, any cesspool can be attributed to filtration (absorbing) drain structures or sealed sewer tanks. Sewage collectors of the first type ensure the absorption of wastewater into the ground, where they are decomposed by microorganisms into water and organic matter, while the latter are storage tanks that require pumping and removal of domestic wastewater from the site.

The cost of arranging a cesspool will pay off handsomely: this structure will give an urban level of comfort even far from civilization

Many sources on the network claim that the choice of one or another design depends on the daily amount of waste being drained. The authors recommend using sealed cesspools with a volume of more than one cubic meter per day. We believe this statement is only partly true. Judge for yourself: the maximum depth of the structure is 4 m (otherwise the hose of the sewage machine will not be able to reach the bottom of the pit), while more than 1 m goes to deepen the sewer line. Therefore, about 3 m of usable height remains. Even if the pit has an impressive diameter and volume of 5-6 cubic meters, it will have to be pumped out at least once a week. The filtration design will make it possible to increase this interval by a third, especially since, if necessary, the process of pumping it out does not differ at all from servicing a sealed container. The only thing that can deter the construction of absorbent sewage pits is their low environmental friendliness, because the a large number of runoff can contaminate aquifers. If the hydrology of the site, as well as its size and landscape features, allow the construction of a pit of any type, then the filtration system will be unrivaled.

A feature of absorbent sewer collectors is the presence of a drainage layer

Sewage pits without pumping are characterized by the presence of side walls and a floor slab, while instead of a bottom, a crushed stone pillow is equipped in the structure. Thanks to it, wastewater is filtered from large fractions of sewage and absorbed into the ground. Often, the walls of absorbent structures are perforated, which increases the absorbency of the pit. The cover of the structure prevents debris from entering the pit, avoids freezing of the sewer in winter and protects against the spread unpleasant odors. A hatch is built in the upper part of the structure, through which the level of effluents is monitored and the pit is pumped out.

Design features of sealed and filtering sewage pits

The advantages of absorbing tanks are their simplicity and low cost. In addition, when using them, the operational interval between pumping out sludge and waste masses increases significantly. However, the presence of many shortcomings does not allow us to call this design ideal:

• limited daily volume of wastewater;
• the impossibility of building a structure with a high level of groundwater;
• low degree of wastewater treatment;
• decrease in filtration capacity during operation;
• unpleasant odors around the building.

Despite these disadvantages, leaky cesspools attract with their simplicity and the ability to use materials that often remain during the construction of a country house.

A factory plastic container is one of the most durable and easiest ways to equip a sewer

Sewer pits of a sealed type are free from the disadvantages of absorbing structures, but require regular pumping of waste. They differ from filtration wells in that the bottom and walls of the tanks are made waterproof, and their design involves the installation of a ventilation riser. The construction technology of both cesspools differs only in terms of sealing and has much in common. As for the choice of location, for hermetically sealed structures, the norms are more democratic, although they require to think over the ways of the entrance and the arrangement of the site for the sewer truck.

The use of special bacterial agents makes it possible to increase the efficiency of waterproof drainage structures. Bacteria process sewage into bottom sediment and water, which can be used to water the garden.

The choice of material for construction

The filtration pit can be built from whole or broken bricks, gas silicate blocks or concrete rings. Also, the walls of the structure are made of concrete, they use capacious iron containers without a bottom or old car tires. In a word, any suitable materials will fit for arranging a leaky structure.

For the manufacture of drain collectors of the second type, solid concrete structures are used, as well as sealed containers made of metal and plastic. In addition, it is possible to build a pit in the traditional way - from bricks or reinforced concrete rings, concreted its bottom, and ensured the watertightness of the walls.

brick

Brick pit absorbing type

A waste tank built of brick is one of the most inexpensive and simple options, especially if it is necessary to build a pit without pumping out. Brick allows you to make the walls solid or with gaps that increase the filtration capacity of the structure. The advantages of this design include the possibility of building a pit of any size and configuration. Brick absorbent wells are not without the disadvantages inherent in any leaky systems - silting and negative impact on ecology. In addition, masonry brick under aggressive operating conditions quickly collapses, which causes short term service of filtration systems - about 20 years.

From car tires

Worn tires for trucks are a cheap and durable material for arranging a sewage tank without pumping

Build drain system for the bathroom and toilet of a country house with minimal cost possible, using car tires as a building material for an absorbent cesspool. To do this, it is enough to dig a pit of sufficient size and equip a filter layer of crushed stone at its bottom. Tires installed one on top of the other form a durable structure that prevents shedding of the walls of the structure.

As in the previous version, the negative aspects include a high probability of contamination environment wastewater and tire decomposition products, rapid siltation and reduced system efficiency.

To increase the filtration capacity of the cesspool, spacers are installed between the tires. The resulting gaps work in the same way as the perforations of concrete and brick pits, increasing the area of ​​​​contact of wastewater with the soil.

From monolithic reinforced concrete

A concrete tank is one of the strongest and most durable sewer structures.

A cesspool of this type is a structure with concrete walls and a bottom, built by pouring concrete mixture into an installed crate. Despite the fact that such a container is considered the most reliable and durable, high labor costs do not allow us to call this design the best. At present, this method of construction is being crowded out by ready-made sets of reinforced concrete rings and covers.

From concrete rings

Depending on the tightness requirements, concrete rings can have solid or perforated walls.

Arrangement of a cesspool from cast concrete rings to inexpensive options can only be partly attributed. This is due to the fact that building materials will not only have to be bought, but also to hire equipment for loading and transporting to the site. In addition, the installation of heavy concrete products will also require the use of lifting mechanisms(later we will tell you how, if you wish and have free time, you can get by with just a shovel). Nevertheless, it is this option that is the simplest and most durable way to equip both absorbent cesspools and hermetic structures. Reinforced concrete rings with perforated walls are currently being produced, which are ideal for the construction of waste collectors without pumping.

From metal and plastic containers

Even from an old metal barrel, you can build a filtration pit, which will ensure the efficiency of the sewerage of a country house

The easiest way to make a sewer pit is to bury a plastic or metal container of a suitable volume at a depth. Moreover, this method allows you to get both a sealed structure and an absorbent system. The difference between the second option and the first one is the absence of the bottom of the tank and the presence of perforations in the walls. In addition, in the latter case, you will have to additionally prepare the bottom of the pit by making a crushed stone filter pad.

Project for a summer cottage

Those who think that building a cesspool does not require preliminary calculations are wrong. In order for the operation of the sewer system to take place without emergency stops, it is necessary not only to calculate the required volume of the sewer well and consider its design, but also to choose the right construction site.

The size of the waste sewer facility

The size of the cesspool depends primarily on the daily amount of wastewater, design (with or without pumping), mode of operation (regular or occasional use), soil type and other factors.

To calculate the sewer tank without a bottom, the following factors are taken into account:

• the volume of wastewater per family member when using the bathroom, toilet and washing machine taken equal to 200 liters. Depending on the specific conditions, this figure is reduced to 150 liters;
• the calculation is carried out according to the maximum daily wastewater consumption;
• when determining the size of the cesspool, its volume must contain at least three times the daily amount of wastewater. That is, for a family of three people The container must hold at least 1.8 cubic meters of liquid.

The dimensions of the sewer well are determined for reasons of convenience, given that the depth must be measured from the entry point into it of the sewer line. As for the proportions of the structure, its depth should be at least 2–2.5 times greater than the vertical dimensions (length, width or diameter). Due to the fact that the effluents are cleaned by anaerobic bacteria and go into the ground, the size of the absorbing system will be sufficient for efficient operation.

When determining the volume of the filtration cesspool, the composition of the soil on the site must be taken into account. Sands and sandy loams perfectly pass water, while clay or loamy soil requires larger area contact of wastewater with the soil, and consequently, an increase in the size of the pit.

For the construction of a storage sewer tank, the same averaged data on drainage are used as in the case discussed above. In this case, the daily volume is multiplied by the interval between pumping in days. For example, if it is planned to pump out a hole every two weeks, then for a family of three, its volume should be 150x3x14 = 6.3 cubic meters.

Most sewer trucks will be able to take away a little more than 3 cubic meters. m of wastewater, therefore, a comprehensive analysis of the arrangement of a large-capacity sewage tank is necessary

Before making a final decision on the size of the sewage facility, be sure to consult with utilities or private individuals performing sewerage pumping. The fact is that the volume of most sewage trucks is 3.6 cubic meters, and only some models have a tank increased to 5–8 cubic meters. If your area is being served for the first time, then you need to carefully consider whether it makes sense to build a sewer with a larger capacity than the sewer can pump out. At the same time, it is necessary to lay down additional volume if the arrival of service vehicles may be difficult or irregular.

Choosing a place for construction

When choosing a place for construction, they are guided by the norms of sanitary and epidemiological legislation, construction SNiP and common sense. If you collect all the recommendations, you get a rather long list. Nevertheless, we advise you not to neglect the rules, since their failure to comply is fraught with both inefficient work and inconvenience in sewerage maintenance, as well as administrative responsibility under the current Code of Administrative Offenses.

Restrictions on the choice of location for a cesspool

1. It is not necessary to place a cesspool in the lowest part of the site in order to avoid its flooding with flood or rainwater.
2. It is forbidden to equip filtration facilities if the groundwater level is less than 4 m.
3. The hole must be removed:
   from the foundations of buildings - not less than 10 m;
   from fences - more than 1 m;
   from roads and trees - 4 m.
4. Distance from sources drinking water should be:
   For clay soils- not less than 20 m;
   for loams - at least 30 m;
   for sand and sandy loam - from 50 m.
5. When choosing a place for a cesspool, be sure to take into account the possibility of a sewer truck access.

Blueprints. Photo gallery

At the final stage of designing a sewer tank, a drawing of the structure is drawn up indicating the dimensions and distances from nearby objects. In addition, the entry points of sewer lines and other design features are indicated. For those who consider such a structure to be so elementary that its design does not require "excessive gestures", we recommend that you draw up at least a simple sketch. Believe me: it is better to correct mistakes made with a pencil on paper than to redo a multi-ton reinforced concrete structure. The presented drawings of cesspools can be used in your project, adapted to specific sizes and conditions.

Drawing of a filtration sewage facility Drawing of a sewer tank made of concrete rings Drawing of a sewer pit with overflow Drawing of a cesspool for a country toilet

Instructions for making sealed and seepage pit latrines

Having decided on the location of the drain pit and making necessary calculations start earthworks. If the sewer is equipped using a plastic or metal container, brick or concrete, then a pit of the required dimensions is prepared. It is dug by hand or with the use of earthmoving equipment.

The excavator will save time and effort when preparing the pit, but in some cases it will not be possible to use earthmoving equipment

For the construction of a sewer, it is also easiest to use the services of an excavator and a crane. However, there are cases when the use of equipment on the site is impossible for a number of reasons - there are no access roads, power lines interfere, etc. In this case, they use the old method that our grandfathers used. One of the rings is put in place, they climb inside and, using a shovel with a short handle, they remove the soil, gradually removing the earth from under the walls. It is necessary to constantly monitor the level of the product, since it is important that the reinforced concrete element goes into the ground strictly vertically. After the upper cut of the structure is flush with the site, the next ring is installed and the soil is continued to be removed until the desired depth is reached.

Necessary tools and materials

Depending on the design of the wastewater tank, bricks, concrete rings or a precast concrete structure with a lid, tires from trucks, formwork boards, etc. are prepared before construction begins. In addition, you will need the following tools and materials:

• cement and sand for mortar preparation;
• small rubble and crushed stone for arranging the filtration layer;
• metal bar or reinforcement for the manufacture of a concrete cover;
• a hatch with a frame or metal corners and metal for its manufacture;
• waterproofing;
• buckets and a container for preparing a solution;
• trowel, mason's hammer;
• bubble level, cord and plumb;
• shovel and bayonet shovels.

If a large volume is planned concrete work, then it is best to use a concrete mixer, which you can borrow from friends or rent.

Brick building for a private house

For the construction of the sewer, red solid brick is used. It is best if it is burnt material, which is considered a defect in production. Silicate products are not recommended due to their low resistance in a humid environment.

The order of work is as follows:

1. After the pit is dug, its bottom is leveled and covered with a 50-cm layer of rubble or concreted, depending on the tightness of the structure. The latter option is carried out with the arrangement of an armored belt, which strengthens the concrete base of the drain collector.

   Arrangement of the filtration layer

2. Perform wall laying. Depending on the project, the structure may have a round, square or rectangular shape. The masonry of the sealed container is continuous, with careful filling of all seams with sand-cement mortar. To make a pit without pumping out, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, increasing the filtration efficiency of the structure.

   This is what the masonry looks like sewer pit absorbing type

3. Around the sewer pipeline, it is better to make a window with a side and upper gap between the pipe and the masonry from 5 to 10 cm. Such a solution will not affect the tightness of the structure, but when the structure shrinks, this trick will save the pipe from damage.
4. The walls are laid out to a height below 20–30 cm from the level of the site, after which they begin to arrange the floor. To do this, a sealed crate with a hole for the hatch is installed on the pit, an armored belt is constructed and the slab is poured with concrete mortar. The frame and the manhole cover can be bought or made from improvised materials: cuts metal corners, profile pipes and steel sheet.

   Overlapping the sewer tank with a hatch for pumping wastewater

5. The slab is covered with a layer of soil and rammed.
   In regions with a harsh climate, the distance from the stove to zero mark the plot is increased to 50–60 cm. This allows you to fill the pit with a thick layer of soil, which prevents the sewer from freezing in winter.

Video: the secrets of building a brick pit

Sewage well made of reinforced concrete rings

To date, manufacturers offer rings in a wide range. It must be understood that for the diameter of additional elements of more than 1.5 m, you will have to use lifting equipment, therefore the best option for the manufacture of a cesspool with their own hands are products with a size of Ø1 × 0.89 m. Together with the rings, you can purchase a concrete bottom and cover. This will reduce construction time to a minimum.

Table standard sizes reinforced concrete rings for wells and cesspools

Instructions for the progress of work:

1. By analogy with a brick structure, a crushed stone filter layer is built at the bottom of the pit, a concrete pad is poured, or a factory reinforced concrete base slab is installed (in the case of using an excavator). At the same time, it is imperative to control the correctness of the work performed by the construction level.
2. 3-4 rings are stacked on top of each other, reaching the top level. If necessary, the desired height can be achieved with several rows of brickwork.

   When installing rings large diameter without lifting equipment

3. Using a perforator, holes are made in the concrete wall for sewer lines. We remind you that their size must ensure the integrity of the pipes during shrinkage.
4. If it is necessary to obtain a sealed structure, the joints of the rings are sealed with a mortar, and after it dries, the outer surface is sealed with bituminous and other moisture-proof compounds, and the inner one is plastered.

   The design of imported rings will ensure the required tightness immediately upon completion of installation

5. Install or make your own floor slab.

   When buying concrete rings, you can also purchase a finished floor. This will reduce construction time, but will lead to additional costs.

6. The structure is covered with a layer of soil.

Video: construction of concrete rings

Concrete pit from monolithic reinforced concrete

sewer well from monolithic concrete provides excellent tightness and is one of the most reliable designs. Note that in this case it is better to dig the pit by hand. This will allow you to install the crate on only one side and will reduce the consumption of concrete. Construction works carried out in stages.

1. The bottom of the pit is leveled and tamped, after which a concrete screed is made at least 10 cm thick with internal reinforcement.
2. After the concrete has set, the side surfaces of the pit are covered waterproofing material. This will avoid shedding of soil during concrete work.

   Installing the armored belt and pouring the base

3. At a distance of at least 4 cm from the walls of the pit, a vertical armored belt is mounted and formwork is installed. It should be said that a wall thickness of 15–20 cm will be enough for a pit of any size.
   If there are not enough boards for the manufacture of the crate, you can use the sliding type formwork.

   Adjustable (sliding formwork) construction

4. Install mortgages in order to obtain openings for the installation of sewer pipes.
5. When pouring concrete, be sure to perform its bayonet or tamping. This will remove air bubbles from the mixture and increase the strength of the structure.

   A large pit will provide additional convenience during work, however, it will require the use of double-sided formwork

6. Sewer pipes are brought into the inlets and ventilation is installed.
7. Fill the top plate with soil and install the hatch.

   Pit cover. Pay attention to the outlet of the ventilation riser - for sealed waste systems it's a necessity

Video: reinforced concrete drain pit

Do-it-yourself cesspool from tires from vehicles

Tires from heavy vehicles and buses are used to make a sewer pit. Given the width of the wheels, you will need at least 8-10 tires. The pit can be dug both manually and with an excavator. It is better to make its diameter 20–30 cm larger than the external dimensions of the tires. This will make it easier to install and increase throughput absorbent system. In some sources, you can find recommendations to remove the side surfaces of tires to increase the internal volume of the pit. We consider this statement to be incorrect, since this will make it difficult to install them on top of each other and reduce the strength of the structure. If we take into account that tire pits are used for absorbent systems, then it is easy to conclude that the area of ​​contact of the liquid with the soil has priority over the volume of the container.

At a certain height, a hole is cut in the tire for the drain pipe

According to the laying method, the option with tires is identical to the method using concrete rings. The only thing I would like to note is the possibility of installing 5-6 spacers between two adjacent tires, which can be used as a red brick. The gaps between the wheels will allow the filtration pit to work more efficiently. For the same purpose, the gap between the tires and the walls of the pit is filled with rubble or brick fragments, after which an overlap is installed on the pit and covered with soil.

The walls of the pit can be strengthened not with rubble or bricks, but with the remaining tires. Such a solution will also increase the absorption capacity of the sewer system.

It is possible to increase the absorbency of pits without pumping out by installing drainage pipe more than 1 m high and at least 20 cm in diameter, which is dug halfway into the ground. In its hidden part, holes are made with a diameter of not more than 5 cm. Of course, the best material will not be metal, but plastic.

Video: tire pit in a country house

Decoration of places for installation of cesspools. Photo gallery

Thanks to the layer of soil that covers the cesspool, it is not difficult to hide it from the eyes. To do this, shrubs are planted over the sewer, a flower bed is set up or a lawn is sown. To decorate sewer manholes, wooden and stone elements are used, showing ingenuity and imagination. Perhaps from our photo gallery you can draw interesting idea or use a ready-made solution on your site.

Garden stand mounted on the cover of the pit Lawn decorative elements in the form of wooden circles Such a hatch is completely invisible against the background of the lawn. Decoration natural materials Even the ventilation riser can be beaten gracefully and beautifully Aerobatics - use the place and create a real masterpiece landscape design Flowerpot installation original form with flowers Decorating with artificial stones Installation of decorative figures on the hatch - a mill, a well, a hearth

A huge variety of designs of cesspools allows you to build a sewage facility in full accordance with the needs and financial capabilities. Finally, I would like to remind you of the need to comply with sanitary norms and rules, especially in terms of the danger of groundwater pollution. Let's take care of the cleanliness of the environment together, thinking about what will go to our children and grandchildren.

Living in an apartment, you probably don’t think about how underground sewage works. You do not need to worry about pumping out the pit and in general about its presence. But life in the countryside is a completely different matter. When installing a bathroom or toilet, you need to make sure that the drain pit is not only roomy, but also properly made.

And then the question arises, but how, so that in a year it does not crumble? We suggest you read the article to the end and find out the answer.

Location selection

Before building a pit, you need to decide on a place and take into account some of the nuances. Firstly, important rule, which cannot be neglected is the distance from the house or fence to finished construction. It should be at least 5 m, but 7-8 m is better.

Secondly, to pump out the pit, they resort to the services of vacuum trucks (if you have not bought a special pump, which we will talk about) and, naturally, the car needs access. Therefore, build the structure as close to the gate as possible, if possible. But in pursuit of convenience, do not forget about the mandatory five meters.

Thirdly, consider the presence of wells or wells on the site. If they are, then the distance between the pit and the well should be at least 30 meters. As for groundwater, this is not a decisive factor in choosing a location. The type of pit depends on their presence.

Types of pits for draining

Despite their simplicity, they can be of three types:

• Two-chamber. It consists of two chambers connected by an overflow. In this case, the first will be sealed, and the second - filtering. Pipes coming from the house carry waste, which is separated in the process - solid inclusions fall to the bottom, and the liquid is transferred to the second chamber and filtered into the ground.
• Sealed. This type of cesspool is the most environmentally friendly, because all waste is stored in a pit and waiting until it is pumped out. But along with this, this plus turns into a minus, because you have to constantly pump out the pit.
• Filtering. Such a pit can be built only if the total amount of waste per day does not exceed 1 cubic meter. In other cases, according to sanitary standards, it is necessary to build pits of the first type.

Whichever hole you choose, sooner or later it will need to be cleaned. In order to simplify this process, use processing biopreparations.

Scope and choice of building materials

The drain pit in a private house should be roomy so that you do not have to pump it out every week. It is impossible to calculate its exact size, because it all depends on how much water is spent on washing, washing dishes, hygiene procedures, and so on. But there are certain rules from which you can build on.

For example, if three people live in a family on a permanent basis, then the size of the pit should be 6 cubic meters.

Separately, it is worth talking about the material with which the drain pits are lined.

Typically the following is used:

• Concrete;
• Brick;
• concrete rings;
• Plastic.

In the first case, a formwork is built into which a concrete solution is poured. In order for the pit to be stronger, do not forget about reinforcement. The thickness of the bottom and concrete walls should be at least 6-7 cm. Using plastic is the easiest option. It is enough to dig a hole and install a plastic container of the appropriate diameter. But there is one downside. Plastic, under the pressure of the soil, can be deformed and to avoid this, the pit still needs to be concreted. In addition, you need to install special loops to which the tank is attached.

Brick is the best option for those who live in a private house or have a summer cottage. Pit lined with ceramic brick, serves for a long time and does not collapse under pressure, but subject to proper masonry. Also, do not forget about the filtration slots, the size of which should be 4-6 cm. Concrete rings are also not a bad option, but installing them yourself will not work. At a minimum, you need a crane or a few helpers. Usually 2-3 rings are used for pits, but it all depends on the size.

Knowing the above information, let's talk about how to make a drain hole with your own hands.

Construction stages

1. The first step is to dig a hole of the appropriate size. Its shape can be both square and cylindrical. Usually, they try not to dig holes more than 2 meters wide, but this is discussed on an individual basis.
2. After the hole is dug, you need to level the walls so that they do not crumble.
3. The third stage is the piping. Important nuance, this is the slight inclination of the pipe necessary for the fluid to drain by gravity. If the pipe has a diameter of 100 mm, then the slope is 20 mm. If the diameter is 160 mm, then 10.
4. After the pipes are installed, 10-20 cm of sand or gravel should be poured into the bottom of the pit. Then, pour the “pillow” with water and tamp a little. If the pit is a filtration pit, then we leave it that way. And if it is sealed, then the bottom must be concreted or a concrete slab laid.
5. Next, the walls are strengthened by the method you have chosen: brick, plastic, and so on.
6. If your pit is airtight, then after strengthening, you need to carry out waterproofing work.
7. The pipeline is connected.
8. The cover is installed.