How to make a viewing hole in the garage with your own hands. Do-it-yourself observation pit in a garage made of bricks How to properly lay out walls in a brick pit

Every car owner sooner or later faces minor repairs to his car. vehicle. An ordinary check of the technical condition of the machine can turn into hours of waiting. Saving money and time will allow you to have your own viewing hole in the garage, which you can do with your own hands.

Functions and necessity of an inspection and vegetable pit in the garage

The need for an inspection hole in the garage is obvious, since in cases of oil changes, minor repairs to the bottom of the body or a simple inspection, you have to set aside several hours for a trip to the station Maintenance and pay for expensive services.

The pit for technical inspection of the car can also be used as a cellar or vegetable store. For this, niches and shelves are constructed inside it.

Condition quality use inspection pit as a technical structure and a place for storing products is the observance of all construction standards and the availability of reliable waterproofing of the floor and walls.

Even such simple design requires careful planning. An important point in this case is the determination of the quality of the soil and the level of groundwater. The most suitable basis for such structures is clay soil. Its peculiarity lies in the fact that it does not allow moisture to pass through, which means it can become a kind of waterproofing layer.

With a large accumulation of groundwater and a high level of their location, the inspection pit is additionally equipped with a drainage system to remove excess moisture, as well as submersible pumps so that the room can be quickly drained.

Step-by-step guide to making a viewing hole

Installation of a viewing hole can be carried out independently. There is nothing difficult in this, if you follow detailed instructions.

How to determine size

To make a calculation of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future viewing hole, you need to take into account the thickness of the walls and base. For such calculations, it is necessary to remember the course of geometry and resort to a simple formula that determines the area - S \u003d ah, where a is the length, h is the width of the pit. The finished inspection pit will have dimensions of 75x185x300 cm. The thickness of the concrete walls and floor, as a rule, is about 10 cm. The calculations will be as follows: 0.85x3 \u003d 2.55 m² - this is the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit for the viewing hole.

Comfortable work in the inspection pit is created by a properly calculated space, namely, its parameters should be convenient for the build of the person in it. Usually the width of the pit is built in the range from 70 to 75 cm. This width is enough for you to move freely inside. The same distance between the walls makes the observation structure convenient for the arrival of a car.

The pit may be wider if the inspection pit is intended for large or trucks. The distance between the inner sides of the wheels of such vehicles is much larger (from 80 to 90 cm).

The observation pit is arranged in such a way that the walls narrow slightly to the floor. Schematically, in cross section, its design resembles an inverted trapezoid. This shape provides easy access to tools in niches and free movement.

The length of the inspection hole is selected based on the size of the garage. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then a staircase can be provided in the pit. To do this, the length of the pit is increased by 100–120 cm.

The depth of the pit "with a margin" for installing the floor

The height of the pit is at least 170–180 cm. These dimensions are relative, since the depth is made in accordance with the growth of the car owner. Being in the inspection hole, a person should not touch the bottom of the car with his head.

For additional safety of the car and its owner, the inspection pit is equipped with metal limiters. Usually they are four pillars fixed at the corners of the niche. They rise 10-15 cm above it. Sometimes not four pillars are used for technical inspection, but two metal corners. They are fastened against each other along the edges of the length of the pit.

The depth should be 25-30 cm more than the growth of the owner. With such a distance from the base to the body, the hands will not quickly get tired, as this makes it possible for them to be in a bent position.

Materials and tools

Most often, concrete, wood, metal or brick are used for manufacturing.

To calculate the required amount of concrete, you must use the formula that determines the volume. To do this, multiply the values ​​​​of the length, width and height of the wall. Similar calculations are carried out for the floor.

If a brick is used during the construction of the pit, then, knowing its parameters, it is easy to calculate the required amount of this material in pieces. The dimensions of the red brick are 250x120x60 mm.

When building a viewing hole, you can not do without the following tools:

• shovel and bayonet shovel;
• buckets for excavated earth and concrete mix;
• trowels;
• welding machine;
• hacksaws.

The following materials are also required:

• bricks;
• cement, sand, gravel;
• concrete M200 for the base;
• boards with a section of 400x50 mm;
• reinforcing bars;
• metal corner 50 mm wide;
• waterproofing material.

Instructions for making a viewing hole from bricks, boards, concrete and iron

All work must be done in a strict sequence of steps:

1. Before you make a hole in the garage, you need to mark the area. After the pit is dug, its bottom can be covered with a raised floor or convenient stands can be built. If the ground is unstable, then it must be strengthened with boards and struts. Remember that loosened earth is 25-30% larger in volume than the dimensions of the pit. It should not be taken out immediately, since part of the soil will be needed to compact the space between the wall of the pit and the brickwork (concrete, metal sheet, boards). The other part of the land will be required to level the floor throughout the garage.
2. At the stage of formation of the pit, it is necessary to take care of equipping niches in the walls. It is convenient to hold lighting fixtures, tools, materials in them. Niches are recommended to be placed at the height of the elbows. You don't have to bend down for the tool.
3. When the pit is dug, it is necessary to level and compress its bottom. For this, a rammer is used, which can be built using self-tapping screws, thick (with a diameter of 100 to 150 mm) and thin timber (for the handle). To do this, attach a thin one to the end of one side of a thick beam. The design will resemble the letter "T", where the shock part will be at its base. Pour medium-sized gravel onto the prepared surface, compress.
4. Then you need to prepare the concrete mixture for pouring the floor. To make the base more durable, it must be reinforced with a metal mesh or rods. The dimensions of the cells in the metal frame should not exceed 15 cm. The grate should not be allowed to touch the bottom of the pit.
5. Pour concrete, completely covering the metal frame. It will take from 7 to 21 days for the mixture to solidify. It depends on the air temperature.
6. When the concrete is completely hardened, you can begin to build walls in the viewing hole.

Features of the installation of partitions depends on the material used.

Observation pit made of concrete

Before pouring the mixture, it is necessary to make a formwork. For this it is best to use OSB boards. This material does not pass the poured mixture and does not deform over time. The plates are fastened together with the help of boards and self-tapping screws so that the distance between them is at least 15 cm.

To keep the shape wooden structure it must be secured with struts. Gaps in the joints of the plates should be absent or minimal. A reinforcing mesh should be installed inside the finished formwork.

There is an option for pouring concrete with one-sided formwork. To do this, it is necessary to cover the walls of the pit with waterproofing material. Further along the inner perimeter of the pit, OSB plates are installed. Between them and the waterproofing is placed metal grid. Concrete is poured inside this structure.

Observation pit made of bricks

A waterproofing sheet is laid in the finished pit. It should completely cover the floor and walls. The canvas must be laid with an overlap. So that the edges of the material do not bulge, they are pressed with boards. On top of the waterproofing, masonry is made “in half a brick”. When the wall reaches a height of 135 cm, you can make niches, and then continue laying to the top edge of the pit. It is recommended to install a metal frame from the corner on the last row, and it should be welded in such a way that one shelf of each side is parallel to the floor. Thick boards covering the pit will be laid on it. Next, they pour the concrete floor in the garage.

Inspection pit made of metal sheets (caisson)

This design resembles a large box. In its manufacture, the sheets must be connected by continuous welding. Finished construction must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion coatings. The box should be equipped with fasteners. They are welded metal corners that rest on the ground by 100-150 cm. They are attached to the body with four sides. They will hold the box in place. If this is not done, the entire structure will simply float when the groundwater level rises.

Observation pit made of wooden planks

Wood without proper treatment quickly rots. Therefore, the material must be impregnated with special antifungal agents and additionally waterproofed. Boards for walls are better to take thick. The material is installed horizontally. Spacers are fixed along the edges of the narrow sides of the inspection hole.

Waterproofing device

This process is carried out both before the construction of the structure (external insulation), as well as after its construction (internal insulation).

If the garage is located on a site with a low level of groundwater, then many owners are in no hurry to isolate the viewing hole from moisture. However, the hydrological situation of any area changes every year, so it is recommended to take care of insulation even at the construction stage. For this, special films or membranes are used, for example, butyl rubber, aquaizol. They must be laid in a pit. The edges of the material should be laid with an overlap of 10–15 cm. To obtain a sealed seam at the overlap, use double-sided tape.

When installing a film or membrane, it is important not to damage their integrity. Otherwise, moisture from the soil will get into the pit.

The laid waterproofing layer is melted with a blowtorch. As a result of this, the film straightens out, adhering more closely to the walls and the bottom of the inspection hole.

Do-it-yourself internal waterproofing of a viewing hole in a garage involves treating the surface of a finished viewing structure with liquid substances, which, when dried, form a dense water-repellent layer. The composition for the treatment of pools has proven itself well. It is applied with a dense wide brush, and when solidified, the substance forms a waterproof material resembling rubber. For greater reliability, more than two layers should be applied.

The insulating material can be applied with a spray gun

There is another way of internal isolation from moisture - this is the use of special primers based on cements, which tend to be deeply absorbed into the applied material. This effect is achieved due to the polymer particles that are in the mixture. They block the capillaries that allow moisture to penetrate through the base material.

How to close the finished viewing hole

A covered inspection pit will not only protect the car from accidental failure, but also serve as an additional waterproofing layer. In the absence of a cover, evaporated moisture settles on the lower parts of the car body, thereby creating favorable conditions for the formation of metal corrosion. To avoid such problems, the viewing hole is covered. To do this, use sheets of metal or boards.

Wood is a relatively inexpensive and lightweight material. If necessary, the boards are easy to replace. They are selected from hardwoods, such as oak and larch. Before use, the boards are coated with antifungal impregnations and antiseptic substances. They are laid in the openings of metal corners fixed at the top of the viewing hole. The thickness of each board must be more than 40 mm.

The use of metal is less convenient, since this material is heavy, expensive and resistant to corrosion. During operation, its surface bends.

Video: do-it-yourself viewing hole in the garage

A step-by-step guide to building a vegetable pit with insulation

The construction of a vegetable pit has its own characteristics.

Drawing

For a vegetable pit, both the presence of waterproofing and depth are important.

The place for storing vegetables must be below the freezing point. Otherwise, the meaning of food storage is lost, as they will be spoiled by low temperatures.

The freezing point depends on the region where the garage is located, for example, Vin the northern regions the ground freezes up to 150 cm. Given this fact, it is necessary to dig a pit with a depth of at least 190 cm. From 10 to 15 cm must be allocated for the drainage layer under the base, about 10 cm more is required to install the ceiling. 170–175 cm remains for placing shelves, racks and niches for vegetables and lighting. Depth also depends on the height of the host.

Option with optimal dimensions for this structure

The optimal width of the pit for vegetables is 150 cm. This size allows you to optimally place shelves and racks, while the person will not be constrained in movements inside the pit. To select the length, you need to follow the rule - the pit should not reach the walls of the garage closer than 50 cm.

Necessary materials and tools

To make a vegetable pit in the garage, you will need the following materials:

• waterproofing sheet;
• reinforcing bars;
• sand;
• gravel;
• formwork boards;
• metal corners;
• wire;
• bricks, metal sheets, boards or concrete M 250.

During the construction of this structure, you can not do without such tools:

• bayonet and shovel;
• concrete mixers;
• containers for concrete mix and water;
• blowtorch;
• double-sided tape;
• screwdriver.

Calculations of materials for the construction of a vegetable pit are similar to a viewing pit.

Manufacturing instructions

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin to build a vegetable pit:

1. It is necessary to carry out the marking of the site for the pit. This is conveniently done with a stretched cord and pegs.
2. When the markup is ready, you can start land work. When determining the dimensions of the future pit, the thickness of the walls and floor should be taken into account in accordance with the chosen material for construction.
3. The walls and floor must be covered with a layer of bitumen. This procedure is mandatory if the groundwater level is quite high. Bitumen will serve as an additional waterproofing layer.
4. Now it's time to build the foundation. To do this, you need to level the surface of the bottom of the pit, then pour sand, evenly distribute it. After that, compress this layer until a thickness of 10 cm is obtained. Place gravel on top of the sand cushion, which also needs to be compacted.
5. The concrete base must be reinforced with metal rods. This requires rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The intersections of the rods must be fastened with wire. The result should be a metal grate with cells no more than 15 cm. This frame must be installed at a distance of 5 cm from the bottom of the pit. For this it is convenient to use fragments of bricks.
6. Having installed the grid, you can start pouring concrete. It should be borne in mind that the mixture must completely cover the metal frame with a layer of at least 10 cm. Leave for 14 days to solidify.
7. After the specified period, waterproofing works are carried out. Then proceed to the construction of the walls of the structure. For greater masonry strength, it is necessary to lay reinforcing material (mesh or wire) under each row of bricks. Continue building the walls to the level of the garage floor.

   Ventilation pipes contribute to the long storage of vegetables

8. From metal corner make a frame. The dimensions should match the top edge of the pit. Install this frame on top of the cellar. It will serve as the basis for the installation of ceiling boards. The top of the cellar can be left like this, but to create a more permanent structure, work with concrete will be required. Installed boards will serve as the basis for creating a concrete ceiling. To do this, it is necessary to carry out all the actions with a reinforcing lattice and pouring concrete. A place for a hatch should also be provided. Inside the pit, the top should be supported with logs. They will serve as temporary supports until the concrete mixture hardens. You also need to provide a hole in the ceiling of the pit for installing a ventilation pipe. For this, you can use any material. Most convenient option will use a plastic or asbestos-cement pipe.

Waterproofing device

On the question of isolation inner surface cellars from moisture should be treated especially carefully. This is important, as the smallest hole in the waterproofing will become a source of dampness and cause spoilage of vegetables.

You can proceed to this stage only if the concrete is completely dry. You will need a waterproofing sheet or aquaizol. This material must cover the walls and floor of the vegetable pit. The canvas must be laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm. The joints are fixed with a blowtorch or double-sided tape. All actions with the lamp should be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the canvas, otherwise moisture will get inside the vegetable pit. The same materials cover outer part pit ceiling.

How to insulate a cellar in a garage

Solving the issue of insulating the cellar in the garage is just as important as installing waterproofing. The insulation will help maintain a stable temperature inside the pit. For this you can use mineral wool or foam.

To install foam panels, plastic dowels "umbrellas" will be required. The installation process is as follows:

1. With the help of a drill or a puncher, five holes are drilled in the plate attached to the wall (in the corners and in the middle of the material).
2. Plastic dowels are hammered into them, into which self-tapping screws are twisted.
3. The joints of the plates are filled with mounting foam.

In the northern regions, where the air temperature drops below 25–30ºС, it is also necessary to insulate the ceiling of the vegetable pit. So that over time the foam does not crumble, you can cover it with any finishing material. This will create an additional thermal insulation effect.

Video: how to make a dry pit, cellar, basement in the garage of the desired width

Make an observation deck in the garage or vegetable pit with your own hands is quite easy. It is enough to listen to the recommendations of experts and follow step by step instructions. If desired, these two rooms can be combined.

Before you build inspection hole in the garage with your own hands, let's figure out what it is.

viewing hole- this is the working space of a motorist, which should be as comfortable as possible, allowing you to turn around and stand up to your full height. If these conditions are not met, fixing even a tiny problem will turn into a nightmare, which should not be allowed.

How to make a hole in the garage?
First of all, we must measure the length, width and depth in order to find out inspection hole dimensions in the garage by hand.

Parameter length calculated from the length of the machine. Add one meter to it, it will be optimal space convenient for work.

The second parameter again directly depends on the dimensions of the vehicle. On average, this is 75 cm, but professionals use another way to measure the optimal width: you need to measure how far apart the front wheels are from each other. 20 cm is subtracted from the obtained value to be sure that during the drive into the pit, the car won't fail.

IMPORTANT: Before you make a hole in the garage, keep in mind that its width should be slightly less than the width of your vehicle, otherwise the car will simply fail.

And finally, the last parameter - depth. It is calculated from the calculation of the growth of the motorist, to which 20 cm is added. The obtained parameters need increase by 30 cm, which will make hydro- and thermal insulation. After the calculation, you can make drawing holes in the garage.

Do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage: dimensions - photo below:

Construction

Having received the required dimensions, we proceed to construction viewing hole in the garage by hand. Of course, building an inspection pit when the garage has not yet been built is much easier, here you need to do this work until the floors are filled with concrete, but even when you think about how to make a garage with a pit with your own hands, this question is quite decide.

Construction works are as follows:

1. Pit preparation. We mark the land according to the received dimensions. Before digging a hole in the garage, we stock up on shovels and a level. The pit should be the right depth and with a flat bottom.

REFERENCE: How to make a viewing hole in the garage when it is already built? We mark the floor, and then, according to the markup, we cut through the screed using a power tool, after which digging work is already carried out.

2. Formation of smooth walls. It is also necessary to carefully compact the bottom of the pit.
3. Arrangement inspection pit in the garage: floors, walls and niches.

We build a hole in the garage with our own hands step by step:

We lay a pillow of crushed stone on the ground, on top of which, by about 5 cm, we pour sand and tamp.

The next layer in this pie is 30 cm clay. Already laid on clay reinforced mesh, which becomes the backbone of our design, strong, reliable, durable.

Grid is poured concrete. We mix sand with cement, in a ratio of three to one, and fill it with a thickness of 7 cm.

We are waiting for the concrete to harden and only after that, we process the floor bituminous mastic solution. We put the roofing material and glue the joints with bitumen, be sure, hot.

Styrofoam is laid on the roofing material, and then the whole structure is generously poured with concrete, about 15 cm. And again we wait until the concrete dries.

After the concrete has dried, you can proceed to the design of walls and niches:

1. The walls are smeared with clay, then polyethylene is laid, which is well attached to oily clays.
2. A layer of roofing material is applied to the film and again, as in the case of the floor, we pass the joints with bitumen.
3. We repeat the technology of creating the floor, and fasten the foam layer to the walls using any construction adhesive.
4. The hardest part of the job is formwork erection. The formwork is made of plywood, if you want to get a more durable structure, then from boards, at a distance of 7 cm from the walls.
5. We carry out reinforcement along the perimeter of the wall and fill it with concrete mortar.

You need to pour concrete in layers, here you need to be guided rule, the quieter you go, the further you'll get. It is necessary to fill the hole in the garage within a few days, every day - 20 cm in height.

When the concrete hardens and you are satisfied with the result, remove formwork We don't need her now. Well, we proceed to the next stage, the creation of niches.

As in the construction of floors and walls, when arranging niches, we use fittings And clay. But here we no longer need concrete, there will be a viewing hole in the garage with our own hands brick with which niches are lined. If you don’t like this option and you are interested in more than laying out a viewing hole in the garage, then use ceramic tiles, it will be more effective.

See how to do do-it-yourself inspection hole in the garage- photo:

Hydro and thermal insulation

Before you make a hole in the garage, you also need to take care of waterproofing, because humidity is unacceptable in the inspection pit, where, not only do you need to work in comfortable conditions, but it is also important to observe safety precautions when working with electrical appliances of a car.

Today we can choose from a wide range of materials:

Polymeric. This is a material with a complex synthetic structure and excellent waterproofing properties. There are two varieties: multilayer And single layer, the former have best qualities and can last much longer, up to fifty years, the latter are cheaper. Polymer waterproofing laid on reinforcement with cells of size 10x10.

Be sure to cover the frame geotextile. Polymer plates, if they are with a self-adhesive base, are overlapped by 30 cm, if the memtrans are not self-adhesive, then the overlap is 10 cm. Without fail, the joints between the polymer plates are treated with a special adhesive.

Bituminous. This waterproofing option is represented by several types: rubemast, euroroofing material And ruberoid, each is interesting in its own way, each has its pros and cons.

Installation bitumen insulation, perhaps the simplest, in addition, this material belongs to the category of economical, although its service life is much lower, only 10 years, if the work is done efficiently, the shelf life increases to 15 years, but no more.

Bituminous insulation is applied in a double layer.

Dry mixes. This is one of the modern methods of isolation. It is effective, durable, allows you to eliminate even microscopic cracks in the walls and floor, which increases the service life of the inspection pit. Mixtures diluted with water in the consistency indicated on the package are applied to the concrete layer.

If dry mixes- This modern way, which, however, is often used as additional insulation supporting another, polymer or bituminous, then mixture of clay with petroleum products- this is the most old way isolation. It is good because it is easy to carry out work and requires minimal financial costs.

The disadvantage of this method is that the refined products toxic, and experts do not recommend working in a pit treated with such a composition for a long time.

IMPORTANT: do not forget to always glue the joints, whether polymer material, bituminous or some other. Failure to comply with this condition may result in to the destruction of the entire structure and nullify your work.

thermal insulation is an equally important issue, because in our country the warm weather is established only for five months, while the rest of the time - rains, colds and bitter frosts.

At inspection hole in the garage, as durable, effective insulation material can come out polystyrene. positive properties material is the minimum percentage of water absorption, versatility, excellent thermal insulation performance. Minus - fragility, about 10 years.

Finishing touches

As finishing touches, we designate:

• security (iron grate on the pit);
• niches;
• lighting;
• ventilation.

Safety implies the installation iron grate to the pit.

Inspection hole in the garage - how to close it? In no case should it be always open. You can think, forget, not see ... the consequences of such inattention are usually deplorable. So it's better trellis during the absence of repair of the inspection hole in the garage.

Niches in the wall are needed in order to store tools in them, so as not to run upstairs every time for pliers or a screwdriver. Niches also serve as room decor, creating an atmosphere indescribable in words, conducive to work.

For lighting it is necessary to conduct wiring, install sockets in the wall. You can, of course, use a portable lamp, but it will not be so convenient and aesthetically pleasing.

Ventilation- one of the main issues in the design of a viewing hole, because it is often necessary to use toxic substances, varnishes, paints, which are unacceptable to breathe in a closed room. Therefore, give the issue of ventilation a significant part of your attention.

In addition, ventilation is needed to eliminate the possibility of creating condensation effect: high humidity can lead to the destruction of the inspection hole and damage to the car, power tools. Ventilation can be built by displaying air outlet 30 cm from the garage floor. And in order to prevent any debris from getting into the ventilation pipe, it is covered with a net.

Now you know how to do inspection hole in the garage with your own hands. Believe me, this is not at all as difficult as it seems, looking at such a voluminous instruction. And, finally, it remains for us to wish you only patience and kindness!

How to build a hole in the garage with your own hands, watch the video:

Reading time ≈ 4 minutes

The presence of a viewing hole in the garage provides the possibility of carrying out self repair own car. You can make it with minimal knowledge in the field of construction and the presence of detailed instructions. Using a step-by-step master class, it will not be difficult to accurately and efficiently prepare and independent construction pits, regardless of the size and layout of the garage.

Determination of the optimal dimensions and shape of the inspection pit

The finished inspection pit should be both safe and convenient to use. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to study the geological survey data on the state of the soil and the location of groundwater under the garage. This will determine the optimal depth of the pit. If the groundwater is quite deep, then the recommended height from the floor to the "ceiling" may be about 2 m or less (owner's height + 20-30 cm). Please refer to the drawing for dimensions.

An inspection pit is made in the garage with your own hands after drawing up a project plan for the facility. Its width is determined according to the wheelbase of the car: it should be smaller, ensuring the safe arrival of the car. The length should be at least 1 meter longer than the length of the car: this will allow you to work comfortably in the pit.

Allows the device of a viewing hole the presence of small niches. They can be used to store parts, convenient location tools. They should not be made too deep. The sizes of niches are recommended to be determined according to the available number of auto tools and spare parts.

Laying walls and niches in the viewing hole

After digging a foundation pit with predetermined dimensions, you should begin to strengthen the walls, protect them and then lay the bricks. The use of bricks is optimal due to the ease of working with it and ease of purchase. How to build a viewing hole in the garage from the most affordable building materials can be found in the following instructions:

1. First you need to make the floor of the inspection hole in the garage: level the bottom of the pit, lay roofing material (with a swim on the walls of about 0.5 m for each of them). Concreting is carried out with the M-200 brand, the floor thickness should be about 10 cm. The size of the length and width of the floor should include the sum of the thickness of the two walls, the length / width of the pit itself and an increase of 10 cm. After pouring, leave the concrete to harden for 4 days.

2. The withdrawal of the walls begins with the laying of 4 rows and the subsequent waterproofing of the inspection pit with outer side using bituminous mastic. This will eliminate the destruction of the walls due to moisture from the ground cover adjacent to the brick. After laying out the walls, you need to fill in the remaining indent from the ground to the brick.

3. The final stage of work will be the installation of a metal frame around the entrance to the pit. It should protrude slightly above the floor level of the garage box.

Niche frames should also be made of a metal corner. This will prevent subsidence of bricks or their destruction.

Features of the ventilation device and the choice of stairs

High-quality ventilation in the inspection hole of the garage will prevent the appearance of mold and the gradual destruction of the walls. It can be made exclusively exhaust or supply and exhaust. In the first case, when laying out the last rows of bricks, it is necessary to install a pipe that will allow air to be removed from the pit through the garage box upwards (it will go to the garage ventilation pipe or be led directly to the street). In the second case, an additional pipe is installed, which is diverted to the outside. Its end should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the floor.

Craft comfortable stairs for a viewing hole can be made of wood, metal corners. For a small block, a repositionable ladder will be much more convenient. On the attached photos you can also see examples of pits in which the steps were laid out of brick or concreted.

Summing up lighting

In the process of laying niches, it is necessary to bring a wire to 36V in an insulating rubber hose. This will allow you to connect the light in the pit and conveniently carry out car lighting during repairs. It is advisable, when performing these stages of work, to invite a qualified electrician who will help to correctly determine the optimal location of the wire and guarantee its protection, and will correctly connect it to the power supply. At self-fulfillment work, you should study the auxiliary video tutorials on creating the right lighting in the viewing hole.

Do-it-yourself video of building a viewing hole in the garage

Own garage with viewing hole- the dream of any car owner. So why not bring it to life with your own hands? After all, a garage pit will provide access to important parts of the car, which will allow you to perform inspection and repair work without contacting the car service masters.

Why do we need a viewing hole and what should it be?

Garage pit - the main assistant of a motorist. It allows you to perform diagnostics, maintenance and small, and even overhaul car on your own.

It is worth remembering that the viewing hole is an increased source of moisture. Which means the most important task during its construction is waterproofing.

A damp inspection hole will quickly nullify the microclimate in the garage, which will inevitably lead to the appearance of rust and mold.

The dampness coming from the inspection hole drastically reduces the comfort of being in the garage, especially in the cold season. And this is already dangerous to health, so the pit must be kept perfectly dry: oil drips or puddles of water are not allowed.

Before carrying out any major activities in the garage, you must:

• study the features of the soil under the garage structure and establish the depth of groundwater;
• assess the condition of the foundation.

Based on reliable geodetic data, as well as the requirements of building codes, it will be possible to make a technically competent and economically sound decision.

Attention: when planning a viewing hole, it is imperative to provide material for closing during downtime. This will eliminate the effect of excessive moisture on the bottom and lower part of the car body.

Dimensions

It is reasonable to place an inspection hole not in the middle, but closer to one of the side walls and in the depths of the garage. The already small area of ​​a cramped or narrow room, of course, should not be reduced. But it would hardly be advisable to build an inspection pit less than 2 m long.

The optimal depth is taken equal to the average human height (170-180 cm) in total with a small margin of 15-20 cm to increase the viewing angle of the bottom of the car.

The main requirements for entering the inspection pit are safety and ergonomics. If the garage is short, but wide enough, the entrance to the viewing hole can be made side.

The width of the garage pit directly depends on the size of the room and, of course, the dimensions of the car. In private garages, this value is assumed to be 70–80 cm for passenger cars and 110–120 cm for trucks and vans.

Attention: it is better to take the depth of the inspection hole with some margin. At the bottom of the structure, it is always possible to equip an elevation, which will ensure the convenience of performing certain technical operations, while the passage under the machine placed on the pit will not be embarrassed by anything. In addition, special niches and recesses should be provided on the walls of the pit, in which it will be possible to fold tools or car parts.

Features of waterproofing and thermal insulation of the garage pit

It is necessary to choose materials for waterproofing and insulation of a viewing hole at the planning stage. This will allow you to correctly calculate the parameters of the structure and make a decision on its interior decoration.

Waterproofing materials

As a waterproofing for a garage viewing hole, you can use:

• bituminous materials (roofing material and its varieties, bituminous resin; service life 10–15 years);

• polymeric geotextiles (single and multilayer polymer membranes on a self-adhesive basis; service life is at least 50 years);

• penetrating compositions (dry mineral or mineral-organic mixtures, diluted with water immediately before use; the service life is equal to the service life of the treated surfaces);

• oily clay in combination with refined products (in combination with modern materials, oily clay will increase the operational period of the main waterproofing);

• liquid rubber (emulsion, which includes latex, polymers and stabilizing agents; service life is about 25 years);

Waterproofing the garage pit must be carried out in conjunction with thermal insulation measures. The latter allow to reduce heat leakage through the floor and walls of the structure, as well as to minimize the amount of condensate formed due to temperature differences.

Thermal insulation measures

Extruded foam and expanded clay are excellent for thermal insulation of the inspection pit. The first is laid on the waterproofing of the walls of the structure and covered vapor barrier film, after which the concrete screed is poured.

Expanded clay is filled with sand and gravel cushion, equipped at the bottom of the pit. A vapor barrier is installed on the rammed pillow, after which the floor is poured or laid.

Attention: if the groundwater level is less than 2.5 m, it is necessary to organize a drainage system with drainage outside the garage.

Pit lighting and ventilation

The presence of a lighting system in the inspection pit is a prerequisite for comfortable and safe work. Lighting equipment should have low power and it needs reliable protection from moisture and mechanical damage.

In the garage pit you can install:

• lamps with voltage up to 36 V (fluorescent lamps);
• low-voltage lamps with a voltage of 12 V (LED lamps);
• lamps with a voltage of 220 V in a waterproof design (not lower than IP54);
• accumulator lamps with the tight case.

One of the most popular solutions is 36 V fluorescent lamps in a protected waterproof case. They consume a small amount of electricity, which is beneficial for long lighting periods. The same can be said about LEDs, the use of which provides a high level of electrical safety.

When illuminating the inspection pit with equipment operating under a voltage of 220 V, it is necessary to perform hidden gasket electrical wiring with mandatory waterproofing of the latter, and close the lamps with shades with a grill; all metal elements of the system should be grounded from a single circuit led outside the garage.

Battery-powered lamps are rarely used to illuminate inspection pits due to the high cost, as well as the difficulty of repairing or replacing damaged elements. However, if it is impossible to equip stationary lighting, such equipment is the most suitable solution.

Attention: sockets and switches cannot be installed in the inspection hole. For the convenience of performing certain types of work, it is recommended to equip a garage pit with a portable lamp with a special housing (with a carrying handle, a stand for stationary installation and a hook or clip for hanging) on ​​a protected electric cord with a length of at least 4 m.

As for the ventilation of the garage pit, in most cases it is left natural.

It is advisable to organize forced air exchange in cramped rooms where exhaust gases quickly accumulate, as well as in garages installed in areas with high level ground water.

Ventilation in the garage is equipped in the following way:

1. An exhaust outlet with protection against wind blowing and rainwater ingress is arranged under the ceiling of the garage on the leeward side.
2. The supply hole is made at a distance of no more than 50 cm from the floor, preferably closer to the inspection hole, on the windward side.
3. The exhaust and supply ventilation openings are closed with a metal or plastic grate.

Attention: to increase the intensity of air exchange, the exhaust outlet of the garage ventilation can be equipped with a fan of small or medium power, powered by a switchboard or battery.

We build a viewing hole in the garage with our own hands (with drawings)

The garage pit should be located in such a way that it is possible to park the car on it at a certain angle. This will facilitate access to certain parts of the machine, as well as simplify the performance of many technical operations. The length of the structure depends on the length of the machine (including a margin of 1 m).

Project

Thoroughly approach the matter in the construction of a garage pit will help nothing more than advance paynemt its parameters. And it is performed based on the size of the machine, but with some margin in case the latter is changed in the future. For example, if the length of the Opel Kadett is almost 4 m, then the length of the Scoda Octavia is 4.6 m.

Let's take an average value of 4.5 m and get that, taking into account a margin of 1 m, the length of the inspection pit will be 5.5 m.

The depth of the structure should be taken in accordance with the growth of the garage owner. With an average of 175–185 cm, the normal depth of the inspection hole for work will be at least 195 cm, and the width sufficient for free movement and performance of technical operations will be at least 0.8 m. viewing hole parameters:

• length 5.5 m;
• width 1 m;
• height 1.95 m.

You can transfer the obtained dimensions to paper using an axonometric projection or a flat image.

In the second case, two drawings will be needed - for the projections of the structure on the vertical and horizontal planes.

When creating a drawing of an inspection pit, it is necessary to take into account the thickness of the hydro-, heat- and vapor barrier, as well as the concrete screed. This will allow you to more accurately determine the volume earthworks.

Attention: if the garage is used only for storing the car, it is more convenient to place the inspection hole in the center of the room. In the event that, in combination, the room is used as a mini-workshop or storage room, it is better to move the central axis of the structure closer to one of the walls. With the car put on the pit in such a garage, there will be enough space for passage and work at the workbench.

Instrument preparation and material collection

After approving the construction project, you can start purchasing materials. In order not to waste time, it is worth preparing in parallel the tool that will be needed in the process. It doesn't hurt to include in the list of necessary:

• construction tape measure, marker, knife;
• pickaxe, crowbar, shovels and bayonet shovels;
• building level;
• concrete mixer;
• welding machine;
• powerful puncher or chipper;
• concrete cutter;
• hammer, pliers and a set of screwdrivers;
• circular saw with cutting circles for metal;
• construction trowel;
• electric drill with a mixer for mixing the solution;
• buckets and containers for water, building mixtures and mortar.
• bitumen heating tank;
• burner for gluing roofing material;
• shaft for laying bitumen;
• grater for leveling concrete surfaces.

In search of forces and means to implement the project, one should not forget about the impressive list of building materials. It includes:

• cement, sand and crushed stone or gravel (for the production cement mortar, concrete and sealing pad);
• expanded clay and / or gravel (as a stabilizing and heat-insulating pad under the floor screed);
• insulation (extruded foam);
• surface waterproofing (penetrating composition for the treatment of concrete surfaces);
• drainage pipe;
• reinforcement with a diameter of 10–12 cm (for reinforcing the floor of the inspection pit);
• boards, wooden blocks, nails and wire (for the construction of formwork);
• brick (in the case of building walls using brickwork)
• vapor barrier film (to prevent the accumulation of condensate on the walls and floor of the inspection pit);
• steel corner 20 * 20 mm (for framing the upper perimeter of the viewing hole);
• boards and beams treated with an antiseptic and waterproof paint (for the manufacture of a viewing hole cover);
• rolled roofing material;
• bituminous resin (mastic).

Attention: the amount of building materials is accepted depending on the size of the pit with a 2–10% margin.

Garage floor demolition and excavation

For implementation building plan The first step is to clear the area. Everything superfluous from the garage will have to be removed for a while, as well as prepare a site outside the premises for storing land.

The next steps will be:

1. On the floor of the garage, with the help of chalk, a corner and a rule, the outlines of a viewing hole are drawn.
2. The resulting rectangle is increased by 10–15 cm on each side, which is necessary for the convenience of earthworks.
3. Along the lines that turned out this time, the floor is being disassembled.
4. If the floor of the garage is made of concrete, you will first have to work with a concrete cutter, and also get acquainted with the capabilities of the chipper found on this occasion (in extreme cases, a high-power puncher armed with a chisel).
5. When working with reinforced concrete, you need to remember about reinforcement. In a standard reinforced concrete slab, it is located at a depth of 5 to 10 cm. The metal skeleton of a concrete screed must be carefully cut with a circular saw, for which you first need to expand the cut with a puncher or a chipper.
6. After removing the layer of concrete with reinforcement, it remains to remove the remains of the screed.
7. The dismantled concrete floor opened up access to the ground under the garage, in which it is necessary to dig a foundation pit 195–200 cm deep, 115 cm wide and 5.5–5.6 m long.
8. When performing earthworks, you should regularly monitor the vertical level of the walls of the pit and the depth of the latter, and also make sure that there is no water in the pit, and that its walls do not crumble as they deepen.

Attention: if necessary, the walls of the excavation can be temporarily reinforced with wooden beams. It is advisable to take the earth obtained in the process of digging a trench outside the premises so as not to clutter it up. In the process of preparing the pit, you need to work in warm clothes, because as the pit deepens, the humidity level will increase, and the temperature in the garage will also decrease.

Waterproofing a garage pit: important points

No tricks will save the viewing hole from flooding in the event of groundwater rising or heavy rainfall, and the garage itself from dampness, fungus and mold, if you do not pay due attention to water drainage. This can be done only with the help of a drainage system: it will provide protection against the penetration of rainwater and soil moisture under the inner perimeter of the room.

Self-installation of drainage

To install a drainage system, you will need drainage pipes wrapped with geotextile, as well as a pipe section PVC diameter 100 mm and connecting elements.

The length of the drainage will correspond to the outer perimeter of a separate garage building. The output of the system is arranged at a distance of at least 5 m from the garage. It is highly desirable that the drain be carried out into a nearby ravine or other natural depression in the soil.

If there is none on the site, the drainage outlet will need to be brought into a special container, which must be buried at least 20 cm below the drainage level and equipped with a pump for pumping water with a float.

The drainage must be equipped with a manhole, in the role of which you can use a PVC pipe vertically installed and connected to the drainage perimeter. The upper end of the latter is closed with a protective cover.

Installation of the drainage system is carried out in several stages:

1. Around the garage building, at a distance of up to 0.5 m, a trench is dug with a depth equal to the depth of the garage foundation and up to 0.5 cm wide.
2. A 10 cm cushion of sand and gravel is laid at the bottom of the drainage ditch (to protect the system from destruction under the influence of soil pressure).
3. The sand cushion is covered with a geotextile film.
4. Drainage pipes are laid in the trench and connected into a closed system with an outlet to a tank or a natural depression on the ground.
5. The drainage is covered with a pillow of a mixture of sand and crushed stone (gravel), which in the process must be carefully, but carefully (so as not to damage the pipe) tamped.

With the installation of drainage most weakness in the garage waterproofing system - the sole of its foundation - will be reliably protected from water penetration from outside the structure. As a result, the requirements for moisture protection of the inspection pit will decrease.

Attention: from above, the drainage can be covered with soil, turf or concrete screed (the choice is at the discretion of the garage owner). It is better to install a plastic water drainage tank, since it will last much longer than a metal one, and use the drainage drain to water the garden, provided that chemicals used in car care do not get into it.

Protection against moisture and dampness

With the waterproofing of the pit, the main construction begins. This problem is solved in several steps:

1. A pillow of gravel 10–15 cm thick is laid and compacted at the bottom of the pit, which is covered with 5 cm of sand on top.
2. The walls of the inspection pit are laid with a layer of greasy (red) clay.
3. A ruberoid is spread on the surface of the floor. This must be done with an overlap of 10–15 cm and with the same margin protruding onto the surface of the walls.
4. The overlap lines of the roofing material laid on the bottom of the pit are soldered with a burner or glued with molten bituminous mastic. The latter is laid using a special shaft.
5. Similarly, the roofing material is laid on the walls. The vertical and horizontal corners of the pit are additionally glued with bitumen or soldered using a special burner.
6. On top of the roofing material with mandatory gluing of all corners and joints, a vapor barrier made of a thick polyethylene film is laid.

Do-it-yourself floor and walls of a viewing hole

If the hydro and vapor barrier of the pit is ready, it's time to proceed directly to the construction. To do this, you need to prepare in advance construction site, tools and materials necessary for the preparation of concrete, insulation and reinforcement of the screed.

Filling the floor

Construction begins with floor screed. Its filling is carried out according to the following method:

1. At the bottom of the pit, covered with waterproofing, it is necessary to lay 10–15 cm of rough concrete (grade not lower than M200). The latter is prepared on a concrete mixer in proportions from 1: 3: 4.5 (cement: sand: crushed stone).
2. After partial drying, the surface of the rough screed is leveled with a special grater made of wood or hard foam.
3. If necessary, the rough screed is covered with a layer of insulation (extruded foam 5 cm thick).
4. On top of the thermal insulation gasket or, in the absence of one in the project, a rough screed is mounted reinforcing cage floor screeds. To do this, you will need steel reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm and wire or welding, with which the mesh will be fixed before pouring the screed.
5. On a concrete mixer or using a mixer is prepared cement-sand mortar in a ratio of approximately 1:4, which is poured onto the reinforcing frame so that the thickness of the screed is at least 5 cm.
6. 2-3 hours after pouring the concrete, its surface is leveled with a grater, after which you can begin to build the walls of the inspection pit.

Attention: pouring rough concrete and reinforced screed must be done in 1 step. Therefore, for work you will need at least 2, and preferably 3 pairs of hands. Draft concrete before warming must be allowed to dry completely, which will take at least 3 days. The same period is necessary for the upper reinforced screed in order to be able to walk freely on it during the construction of the walls of the inspection pit.

Wall construction

The walls of the inspection pit can be made of both brick and concrete. In the second case, before starting work, you will have to install the formwork. For this, a cut board or plywood and wooden beams are suitable. In addition, it is desirable to reinforce the walls of the inspection pit with a mesh of steel wire or reinforcement.

At this stage, it is necessary to deal with the laying of electrical wiring, which, according to electrical safety requirements, must be hidden. To do this, you need to hide the wire in the corrugation, stretch it along the surface of the walls and bring it to the installation points of the lamps, and then fix it on the reinforcing mesh, for example, using plastic ties.

The walls are poured in tiers of 30–40 cm in height. In the process of pouring the walls, the mortar should be carefully tamped with a crowbar or a bayonet shovel - this will remove air from the concrete. Before pouring each subsequent tier, it is necessary to let the previous one dry, for which you will need to wait about 2-3 days.

When building brick walls, the thickness of the masonry is taken equal to the width of the latter. Masonry is carried out in a checkerboard pattern with the obligatory binding of corners and careful grouting. At the final stage of the construction of the walls, care must be taken to ensure that the latter protrude above the floor screed in the garage room by at least 5 cm. This will eliminate the possibility of foreign objects slipping into the pit or accidentally driving a car wheel when placing it in the pit.

After installation brick walls it is necessary to wrap the hydro- and vapor barrier inside the structure and backfill the soil with outside walls. In this case, the soil should be carefully compacted.

Attention: when laying brick walls or pouring them out of concrete, one must not forget about auxiliary niches. In order to make them in concrete walls, you will definitely need to build formwork liners of the appropriate size from the boards. When working with bricks, there is no need for such liners, but with them it will be much more convenient to lay bricks around a niche. Upon completion of pouring the concrete walls of the inspection pit, the formwork can be removed no earlier than after 6-7 days. brickwork can be considered ready for further work in 4-5 days.

How and with what to close the viewing hole?

Even before the start of pouring or laying the walls of the inspection pit, it is necessary to prepare a mortgage frame. She will crown the side of the structure - the latter is set up a little higher than the garage floor or flush with the latter.

For the manufacture of the frame, you will need a pre-stocked steel corner, Circular Saw with cutting discs for metal and a welding machine with electrodes.

The size of the frame is selected according to the inner or outer perimeter of the walls - the corner must stand as required by the cover sheet. By the way, if it is planned to equip the inspection hole with one, the frame must be turned downward at an angle.

fixation metal structure best done with anchors or dowels, for which you will have to make appropriate holes in concrete or brick, as well as in metal. Finally, so that the frame does not rust during the operation of the garage pit, it must be sanded, primed and painted before installation.

Various materials can be used to make the pit cover. For example, you can make it sectional from metal frames covered with steel mesh, or in the form of a wooden shield made of edged board thickness from 35 mm.

It should be remembered that the thinner the canvas, the easier it is to lift it, so you should not take too thick a tree or shields with a heavy frame.

You can make a cover for a viewing hole in the following way:

Attention: when closing the pit, the outer edge of the lid sheet is in contact with the mortgage frame. Therefore, often the structure is additionally sheathed along the edges of steel or plastic tape. The thickness of such a sheathing will have to be taken into account even before cutting the canvas, and to fix it in advance, buy special fasteners. By the way, the lid can be equipped with special mechanisms that will allow partial opening of the inspection hole.

Video: step-by-step independent construction of a garage pit

Building a viewing hole in the garage is not an easy task. Therefore, their solution should be started, thoroughly prepared and, preferably, in consultation with those who have experience in such work. Competent layout, as well as an attentive attitude to the issues of thermal and waterproofing of the premises, antiseptic finishes and electrification will ensure comfortable operation of the cellar and will expand the amount of home food stock. At proper organization work on the construction of a viewing pit should take no more than 10 days, while the construction of a cellar may take about a month with a medium density schedule.

Arranging a viewing hole in the garage helps to carry out independent car repairs much faster and cheaper, without the involvement of specialists. In addition, with its help, periodic technical inspections of various types of equipment are carried out. Proper arrangement a viewing hole has a lot of advantages, but for its implementation it is required to follow a certain technology, which we will talk about later.

Advantages and disadvantages of arranging a viewing hole in the garage

Arrangement of a viewing hole in the garage has both positive and negative sides. At a time when the network of service stations was poorly developed, inspection pits were in almost every garage. When a large number of service stations appear, many motorists refuse to build an inspection pit, primarily due to factors such as lack of time to repair a car, accumulation of excess moisture in the pit, additional time and material costs for building a pit.

In addition, increased humidity in the pit contributes to faster damage to the car, since moisture evaporating from the pit gets on the lower part of the body, thereby accelerating its corrosion.

Despite this, the viewing hole has a number of advantages in favor of its arrangement in the garage. First, the ability to self-repair or test the car. This fact allows you to save on a trip to the service station. In addition, for some men, checking the car is a kind of hobby. Periodic oil changes in a garage with a viewing hole become quite possible at home.

Arrangement of the correct viewing hole in the garage

If you still decide to build a viewing hole in the garage, this is not always possible, primarily because of the height of the groundwater. If the water is located at a distance of about 200 cm from the garage, then the construction of a pit is unacceptable, since you will have to constantly pump water out of it.

Although during the proper waterproofing and installing a drainage system, this problem is completely solvable.

The arrangement and installation of drainage requires the advice of specialists, since even the smallest mistake will lead to the malfunction of the entire system. If the drainage system is laid during the construction of the house, then it is quite possible to build a viewing hole. Otherwise, this procedure will be too costly and troublesome.

If the groundwater is too high, then the only option would be to equip a viewing hole of a recumbent direction.

To check the level of groundwater, you will need to consult specialists, although it is quite possible to cope without them. To do this, you should dig a small pit at the location of the inspection hole and measure the level at which the water begins to rise. The water will begin to rise during heavy rains, so the pit is not concreted until this period.

The dimensions of the inspection hole in the garage: features of the calculations

In relation to design features inspection hole is:

• complex, consisting of a pit and a cellar;
• narrow, in this case, in order to descend into it a fairly small staircase;
• the recumbent option involves staying in the pit, exclusively in the supine position.

In addition, these options differ in various modifications of the pits. The size of a standard inspection pit in a garage depends, first of all, on the number of people who will be in it, on the size of the garage itself, on the type of car or other equipment that will be in the garage.

If you have multiple vehicles, it is better to use classic version, which assumes the following dimensions:

• the width of the inspection hole in the garage - from 80 to 100 cm;
• the depth of the inspection hole in the garage is about 170-200 cm;
• the length of the inspection hole depends on the length of the garage and is at least 160-200 cm.

Before planning a viewing pit, individual structural features should be taken into account, which will affect the determination of the size and configuration of the pit. The pit is dug with allowances, which are about forty centimeters in length and width, and about twenty in height. If it is necessary to carry out wall insulation, the size of the pit should be increased by the size of the material from which the insulation will be made.

How to make a viewing hole in the garage: the initial stage

After arranging the necessary pit and after setting it up before the first rain, an important process follows - the construction of the floor of the inspection pit. If you adhere to all the technological points associated with the conduct of this process, then problems with the accumulation of excess moisture will not appear.

First of all, the inspection pit needs natural ventilation, so when arranging the floor, you should take care of the presence of a hole through which the hose will pass in the form of an air duct.

This hose is closed with a cap, and is inserted at least twenty centimeters. Next, the concrete pad is prepared, which consists of two layers. First, gravel is poured, at least ten centimeters thick, and then sand, about six centimeters thick. Thanks to this, a drainage system is equipped, which is responsible for removing moisture from the pit.

Each of the previously covered layers requires careful tamping and leveling. For these purposes, a special tool and water are used.

After that, metal reinforcement is laid on it, and the surface is poured with concrete mortar. When the concrete dries, another waterproofing layer is laid, and only after that, the pit passes finishing or treatment with thermal insulation materials.

If the groundwater is too deep, it is possible to lay the floor in the inspection hole with bricks.

Waterproofing a viewing hole in the garage: features

The modern building materials market offers a huge number of waterproofing materials different shapes, size and purpose. The main requirements for the material for waterproofing inspection pits are efficiency and high quality work at a moderate cost.

Therefore, based on these criteria, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the main options that help to waterproof the inspection pit:

• polymer single-layer membrane - the thickness of this material is about two millimeters, it is durable and high resistance, but at the same time, this option has the highest cost, in addition, for the installation of the membrane, you will need special equipment and tools to work with it;
• materials based on bitumen in the form of roofing material or bituminous lubricant - they are distinguished by affordable cost and ease of installation, the duration of operation of this waterproofing option is at least 15 years, but at the same time, you do not need to hire specialists, the material has a roll shape, it is easy to fit and cut, for gluing joints it is heated or a bituminous solvent is used;
• grease for waterproofing the inspection pit is notable for its low cost, ease of application, for its installation, the surface must first be moistened with water.

The choice of insulation for a viewing hole in the garage

The procedure for insulating the inspection pit is an uncommon option that needs to be carried out only if additional material resources are available, and when working in a heated garage room.

Insulation will reduce the amount of electricity required to heat the garage. The material in the form of insulation is glued to the wall and floor of the pit. After its installation, the walls are finished.

Among a large number of heaters, it is best to give preference to expanded polystyrene, which has the following advantages:

• duration of operation;
• high resistance to thermal losses;
• moisture resistance;
• affordable cost;
• Fire safety.

Please note that the material for floor insulation is chosen more dense than for the walls of the inspection pit.

How to build a viewing hole in the garage: wall technology

In the process of erecting the walls of the inspection pit, there are two options for further action:

• concreting;
• brick.

After that, tiles or other finishing materials are laid on the walls.

Before laying bricks or pouring concrete, a series of preparatory work, which consist in applying clay to the surface of the walls, laying a dense film in the form of waterproofing, installing formwork, the thickness of which is about 12 cm.

Please note the technological nuances associated with the implementation of these works:

• so that the car wheel does not accidentally fall into the inspection hole, you should take care of the presence of an insurance rail in it, in addition, it will prevent the ingress of moisture and dirt from car wheels;
• the viewing rail has a T-shape, for its manufacture metal is required, which is fixed on the surface of the formwork, and is a supporting element on which the cover is put on;
• in addition, it will not be superfluous to arrange ledges and niches in the wall, on which various kinds of accessories will be conveniently located.

Do-it-yourself inspection pit in the garage - arrangement of lighting and covers

Lighting in the viewing hole is not necessary, as the use of a portable lantern or light bulb is sufficient. However, if the viewing hole is used too often, then it is better to foresee this moment in advance.

The maximum voltage of the outlet, which is installed in the inspection hole, should be 35V. In addition, in connection with high humidity, it must be of high quality and moisture resistant. The use of standard two hundred and twenty volt lamps in a viewing hole is prohibited, as they pose a threat to the life of a person who works in a hole.

When choosing lighting device, should be based on the power of the outlet for which they are designed special types lamps.

The installation of a cover, which is most often made of wood, completes the work on arranging the inspection pit. The minimum thickness of the material is 3 cm, as too massive boards will be difficult to lift.

There are several options for making a cover for a viewing hole:

• when using a metal corner, for the manufacture of the lid, several shields on small rollers will be required, it is with their help that the shields are shifted among themselves. A wooden plank is designed for each shield, the width of which is about 25 mm;
• if there are only two corners fixed along the contour, two shields are used to make the cover, which are located on different areas, rollers are installed on the movable shield, and limiters are installed on the extreme parts of the slats, so when the shield is moved, the pit opens halfway;
• covers that open according to the roller shutter principle are made of wood, about 4 cm thick, and long, depending on the width of the pit, each board is processed in such a way as to build a groove hole on it, a metal cable is installed in them, between which the installation is carried out springs, with light pressure on the handle, the pit opens, this cover is convenient, but in the process of its manufacture it should not be treated with an anti-corrosion compound and a waterproofing solution.

How to fill a viewing hole in the garage

As mentioned earlier, the walls of the inspection pit are made of concrete or brick. The first option is less expensive financially, but requires higher time investments. concrete walls are distinguished by higher strength, durability, reliability.

Inspection hole in the garage photo:

After compacting the rubble, the arrangement of the concrete floor begins, its height is about six centimeters. Previously, the floor needs to be reinforced. For these purposes, a wire mesh with a mesh size of 15x15 cm is used.

To prepare one cubic meter of concrete, you will need:

• three hundred kilograms of cement, more than 400 brands;
• 700 kg of sand;
• 200 liters of water;
• 1200 kg of crushed stone.

If the concrete mixture is mixed manually, then more water should be added. When using a concrete mixer, the proportions are preserved.

When increasing the water in the concrete mix, add a little cement. This type of concrete is characterized by good strength and durability.

The optimal thickness of the walls is about fifteen centimeters. To prepare the solution, you will need:

• 350 kg of cement;
• 660 kg of sand;
• 1200 kg of crushed stone;
• 210 liters of water.

For concreting walls, the technology of layering should be observed. That is, the concrete composition is applied in layers. The height of each tier should not exceed thirty centimeters. To compact the composition, use a bayonet shovel or a deep concrete vibrator.

The arrangement of the walls of the inspection pit requires reinforcement, using the same mesh as on the floor. The mesh is installed in strips, just like concrete is laid. After the work, the concrete is left for three days, and then the formwork is removed.

Inspection hole in the garage video: