What fire-fighting equipment should be equipped with an apartment. Types of fire shields. Where to place the shield.

To fire shields (regardless of their execution), designed to eliminate many emergencies We have been accustomed since childhood. Without them, any institutions, industrial or other premises, territories are inconceivable. In the absence of such an attribute, the fire supervision simply will not allow the operation of any object.

But is a fire shield needed for a private house? Or is it a waste of money, nothing more than a "whim" of individual owners? Let's try to figure out why a shield is needed in the courtyard and how it can help if the house, in principle, has everything you need to put out a fire?

Availability of a fire extinguisher

Does every private house have this fire extinguisher? A small car doesn't count. But on the PS it must be mandatory, and not even 1, but 2. Often this is quite enough to eliminate the source of ignition “in the bud”.

Concentration of everything you need in one place

Of course, that such "accessories" as crowbars, buckets, shovels are in any farmstead. But during a fire, will all this be at hand at the very moment when every second is literally precious? The big question is if not a single person lives in the house, but a large family. During a fire, there is no time to find out "who took it, I put it here yesterday." The fire will not wait.

In addition, you do not have to look for sand or refractory fabric, which are equipped with PSH. Often they help to localize the place of ignition.

Separately, it is worth stopping at the buckets. How many wondered why they are cone-shaped on the PS?

• Such a bucket can be quickly filled with water from a barrel, as it sinks into it much easier.
• If the fire is extinguished by several people located “in a chain”, then it is much more convenient to transfer the cone bucket to each other.
• It is much easier to work with a container of this form if protective gloves are on your hands.

Lack of water is not a hindrance

It is essential to put out a fire. And if, according to a well-known law, it is in this moment did the water utility turn off the water supply due to repair, prevention, or an accident? PShch allows you to organize the fight against fire even without it, with improvised means.

Psychological aspect

Most people are only theoretically prepared for action in extreme situations. Practice shows that few people are able to keep their cool and think sensibly in a real danger. Many people are simply lost, not knowing what to do. If the house has a fire shield, then, saying plain language, even if “the head doesn’t figure it out”, the legs themselves will “run” in the right direction, the subconscious will work towards the shield. And this is already half the battle.

The procedure for completing the PS and the list of everything necessary are determined by the Rules fire regime(PPR) of 2012. The availability of appropriate accessories depends on its type. This is described in detail in Appendix No. 6 to the document.

It should be noted right away that the absence (or presence) of an ax is not a violation, since it is this issue that causes a lot of controversy when self-assembling or in the process of acquiring a finished shield. But still, it is desirable to have it on the shield. For example, if necessary, knock out the jamb of the door, window frame and so on it will be very useful. In some situations, a crowbar or gaff is unlikely to help.

For those who want to understand this issue in more depth, here is a list normative documents, which fully or partially reflect the requirements for the configuration and placement of the PS, as well as necessary tools and accessories:

• PPR-2012 - p.p. 483 - 485, adj. No. 6;
• GOST No. 12.4.009 of 1983 - p.p. 2.5.7. - 2.5.10;
• GOST No. 12.4.026 of 2001 - table 1, p.p. 5.1 and 5.2.

In these documents, you can find the requirements for color designation. constituent parts shield, and to the order of their numbering.

Conclusion

• The answer to the question of whether it is necessary to install a fire shield in a private house can be only one - YES. If only because in a fire you can lose EVERYTHING. So it makes sense to spend a little. By the way, experts pay attention to the statistics, according to which fires in individual buildings occur an order of magnitude more often than in apartment buildings.
• The configuration depends on the features of the structure - size, type of materials used in construction and decoration (flammability class) and a number of other factors. Therefore, the advice of a specialist will not be superfluous. But at least - a couple of buckets, a crowbar, a hook, a fire extinguisher, an asbestos sheet and a box of sand.

In principle, the PS can be made independently. For example, for a product open type All you need is a frame and trim. Even scrap can be made from thick. Everything else is for sale. But given the prices of components, it makes no sense to engage in "handicraft".

The shield itself (open) will cost about 645 rubles (wooden) and 710 rubles (metal). If it is equipped (at a minimum), then the cost, respectively, is from 940 and 1,200 rubles (it can reach up to 6,800 rubles). The price largely depends on the execution (the presence of a protective net, the capacity of the sandbox, etc.).

You can not discount the various regulations which are accepted for regional level. Therefore, it is advisable to seek detailed advice from the local department of the Ministry of Emergency Situations. At the very least, this will eliminate the waste of money (and time) on something “extra”, since it is unlikely that a non-specialist will be able to understand all the intricacies of even such a seemingly simple issue as a complete set of a fire shield.

You should not particularly count on the Seller's awareness in this matter, since his main goal is to sell. And the professionalism of many of them causes quite justified doubts.

The fire shield is designed to accommodate primary fire extinguishing equipment, mechanized tools and fire equipment in production and warehouses not equipped with fire-fighting plumbing and automatic settings fire extinguishing, as well as on the territory of enterprises that do not have an external fire water supply or when removing buildings (structures), external technological installations at a distance of more than 100 m from external fire water sources.

Types and equipment of fire shields.

Shield fire ShchP-A class A

Equipment:

• gaff
• Shovel shovel
• bayonet shovel
• Two conical buckets
• Two powder fire extinguishers

Shield fire ShchP-V class B

Equipment:

• Fire cloth
• Shovel shovel
• bayonet shovel
• Conical bucket
• Three powder fire extinguishers

Shield fire ShchP-E class E

Equipment:

• Hook with wooden handle
• Shovel shovel
• Dielectric scissors
• Dielectric gloves
• Dielectric bots
• One powder fire extinguisher
• Two carbon dioxide fire extinguishers

Shield fire SCPP

Complete set of a mobile fire shield:

• gaff
• bayonet shovel
• fire canvas
• Conical bucket
• Two powder fire extinguishers
• Fire hose with barrel

Standards for equipping buildings (structures) and territories with fire shields.

sand box Sand boxes should have a volume of 0.5; 1.0 or 3.0 cubic meters and be completed with a shovel. The design of the box should ensure the convenience of extracting sand and exclude the ingress of precipitation. Sand boxes, as a rule, should be installed with shields indoors or in open areas where spillage of flammable combustible liquids is possible.
Barrel for water Barrels for storing water, installed next to the fire shield, must have a volume of at least 0.2 cubic meters. and complete with buckets. Barrels must be protected from precipitation.
Fireproof cloth The fire-fighting sheet is designed to extinguish fires of substances and materials on an area of ​​​​not more than 50% of the area of ​​​​the sheet used, the combustion of which cannot occur without air access. In places of application and storage of flammable liquids and combustible liquids, the dimensions of the sheets can be increased to 2x1.5m or 2x2m. The canvas should be stored in a waterproof, resealable case that allows quick application of this remedy in case of fire.

One of the necessary attributes of any public building- fire shield. Since from fire fighting measures depends on the safety of people, and the likelihood of fire in public place much higher. Shields are delivered to the market already fully equipped, but you can assemble this design with your own hands.

The main thing at the same time is to strictly observe all the requirements: due to an incorrectly installed and equipped shield, you can pay a fine. But this is far from the biggest problem. It is much worse if the structure turns out to be non-functional in emergency.

GOST

The section GOST PPR-2012 (Appendix 6), as well as 12.4.026 and Model Rules fire safety. It says the following:

1. The complete set of a fire shield depends on its type. The requirements for different shields are described in detail in various sections of the appendix.

2. All fire equipment- shields, stands, water barrels, sand boxes, tools, equipment - marked in red.

3. Fire shield edging - from 3 to 10 centimeters wide. The tool placement field is contrastingly white. The edging can be made with alternating slanted white and red stripes, the angle of inclination is from 45 to 60 degrees.

4. The shield must contain the contact details of the nearby fire department. The inscription "fire shield" is not required.

5. The dimensions of the fire shield are up to one and a half meters in height and width. Depending on the required kit, the size should be such that all the equipment placed can be activated instantly in an emergency.

6. The tool is placed on the hooks. Screwing and nailing is prohibited.

7. Fire shield according to GOST is placed in an easily accessible place.

Where are shields installed?

• warehouse and industrial premises, in which there is no automatic equipment for fire fighting or internal fire water supply;
• buildings where there is no external fire-fighting water supply, or more than one hundred meters away from it.

Types of shields

The main division is open and closed. Metal shields are usually closed.

An open fire shield is a flat sheet of metal or waterproof plywood. Hooks for the tool are fixed on the sheet. The design can be fixed on the wall or placed next to it on racks.

It is used most often in closed enterprises or territories: the safety of inventory is ensured by the fact that the room is closed, and the absence of additional barriers allows you to remove the tool as quickly as possible.

A closed fire shield is a metal cabinet, the doors of which are made of metal mesh. Inside, the same hooks, and the structure itself can also be mounted on the wall or placed side by side.

Doors are sealed or locked with a simple padlock. Such a shield can be installed outdoors, including in public places.

Attention: the equipment must be protected from direct sun and precipitation. Therefore, in street conditions it is permissible to place only closed structures. An exception is an open shield in a closed area, located under a canopy.

There are shields and stands. Functionally, these are the same designs, but the stand is equipped with without fail sand box.

Classification and equipment

1. ShchP-A is designed for class A fire (this includes the ignition of solid materials):

• two fire extinguishers with foam;
• barrel under water 0.2 cubic meters;
• two buckets;
• two shovels, shovel and bayonet;
• gaff and crowbar.

2. ShchP-V - ignition of liquids:

• two fire extinguishers with foam;
• one powder fire extinguisher;
• sand box;
• two shovels;
• bucket;
• fire-fighting cloth;

3. ShchP-E - burning of electrical equipment:

• carbon dioxide fire extinguishers, two pieces;
• powder - one OP-10. Instead, the kit may include powder OP-5 - two pieces and freon OX-2 - two pieces;
• fire-fighting cloth;
• shovel (scoop);
• sand box;
• dielectric scissors;
• hook with a wooden shaft;
• a set of rubber shoes and gloves;
• rubber mat.

4. ShchP-SH - fires at agricultural enterprises:

• foam-air fire extinguishers, 2 pieces;
• powder - one OP-10 or two OP-5;
• two shovels;
• two buckets;
• fire-fighting cloth;
• a barrel of water 0.2 cubic meters;
• pitchfork;
• gaff and crowbar.

5. ShPP - mobile shields:

• air-foam or powder fire extinguishers, two pieces;
• asbestos cloth;
• bayonet shovel;
• bucket;
• protective screen with racks;
• hand pump;
• five-meter sleeve for the pump;
• water tank 0.2 cubic meters;
• transport trolley.

It is now known which fire shield to install and where, but for fire safety purposes it is better to always install it and have more fire extinguishers.

• Primary fire fighting equipment ( primary funds firefighting)- these are devices, tools and materials designed to localize or extinguish a fire at the initial stage of its development (fire extinguishers, sand, felt, felt mat, asbestos cloth, bucket, shovels, etc.). These funds should always be ready, as they say, at hand.
  It would be more correct to call these means means fire extinguishing, because extinguishing a fire with their help is impossible and even life-threatening.
• To extinguish fires of various classes, powder fire extinguishers must have appropriate charges; for class A - ABC(E) powder; classes B and (E) - BC(E) or ABC(E).
• It is forbidden to use powder and carbon dioxide fire extinguishers to extinguish electrical equipment that is energized above 1 and 10 kV, respectively.
• Carbon dioxide fire extinguishers with a diffuser that creates a jet of OTV in the form of snow flakes, as a rule, are used to extinguish class A fires.
  Carbon dioxide fire extinguishers with a diffuser that creates a gas jet of exhaust gases should be used to extinguish class E fires.
• Freon fire extinguishers should be used in cases where effective fire extinguishing requires fire extinguishing compositions that do not damage the protected equipment and objects (computer centers, radio-electronic equipment, museum exhibits, archives, etc.).
• Air-foam fire extinguishers are used to extinguish class A fires (usually with a barrel of low expansion foam) and class B fires.
  Air-foam fire extinguishers should not be used to extinguish equipment under electrical voltage, to extinguish highly heated or molten substances, as well as substances that enter into water with water. chemical reaction, which is accompanied by intense heat release and fuel spraying.
• Chemical foam fire extinguishers and fire extinguishers activated by overturning them must not be put into service. They should be excluded from fire safety instructions and recommendations and replaced with more efficient fire extinguishers, the type of which is determined depending on the possible class of fire and taking into account the characteristics of the object being protected.
• It is forbidden to use water fire extinguishers to extinguish equipment under electrical voltage, highly heated or molten substances, as well as substances that enter into a chemical reaction with water, which is accompanied by intense heat release and splashing of fuel.
• In the event of a fire, call immediately fire department. This must be done even if the fire is eliminated on its own. Fire can go unnoticed in hidden places (in voids wooden floors and partitions, attic etc.) and the fire may subsequently re-ignite. This is possible even after a few hours.
• Do not attempt to extinguish the fire if it begins to spread to furniture and other objects, or if the room begins to fill with smoke. It is advisable to extinguish a fire on your own only at its early stage, when a fire is detected, and in case of confidence in own forces. If the fire could not be dealt with within the first few minutes, then further struggle is not only useless, but also deadly.

• Water is the most widely used fire extinguisher. Fire extinguishing properties it consists mainly in the ability to cool a burning object, to reduce the temperature of the flame. Being fed to the combustion center from above, the unevaporated part of the water wets and cools the surface of the burning object and, flowing down, makes it difficult for the remaining parts not covered by fire to ignite.

• Everyone can pour water from a bucket, but it is correct to use it to extinguish a fire, perhaps only after some training. Not every container is suitable for quickly pouring water to the required distance. Buckets are most effective in this case. If you take a bucket by the handle and, swinging, pour water forward, then in a rare case you can water the place that you need. Most often, in this case, the water will pour out all at once along a certain arc described by the bucket when swinging. Only part of the water from the bucket will fall on the fire, and most of it will spill to the side. In order to use water from a bucket economically and only with the benefit of extinguishing a fire, it is necessary to pour it in parts directed by strong jets. The best way to do this is to fill the bucket with water to two-thirds of its capacity, then right hand grab the near edge of the bottom of the bucket, and with the left grab the near part of its side. Leaning the body back a little, make a quick energetic movement forward. At the same time, stretching out both hands, direct the water poured from the bucket to the lowest point in front of you. In the absence of a bucket, water can be poured out of a saucepan, basin, can, etc. by the same methods.

• In extreme cases, instead of a shovel or scoop, you can use a piece of sheet steel, plywood, a baking sheet, a frying pan, a ladle to carry sand.
• It is prohibited to extinguish burning gasoline, kerosene, oils and other flammable and combustible liquids with water in a residential building, garage or pantry. These liquids, being lighter than water, float to its surface and continue to burn, increasing the burning area as the water spreads. Therefore, to extinguish them, in addition to fire extinguishers, you should use sand, earth, soda, and also use dense fabrics, wool blankets, coats soaked in water. Do not use synthetic fabrics that easily melt and decompose under the influence of fire, releasing not only toxic, but also flammable gases.
• Used to extinguish spilled flammable liquid foam fire extinguisher, it is necessary to direct the jet to the burning surface in such a way that the foam, without penetrating into the liquid, smoothly spreads over the surface of the burning liquid and covers it all. If the jet of foam coming out of the fire extinguisher under pressure falls into the burning liquid, then the latter can be sprayed onto the surrounding combustible objects and ignite them.
• When extinguishing a burning surface of a liquid spilled on the floor, one must not forget to also extinguish burning or smoldering surrounding objects. Even a small ember or spark left in a place inaccessible to observation can ignite the vapors of the burning liquid, and the fire will resume with the same force.
• Having discovered that the electrical networks caught fire, it is necessary first of all to de-energize the electrical wiring in the apartment, and then turn off the general switch on the input panel.
• Turning off the current, you should begin to extinguish the fire, using a fire extinguisher, water, sand.
• Until the moment when the electric current is turned off, the burning wire insulation can be extinguished with dry sand, throwing it with a shovel or shovel. At the same time, the flame will be knocked down, covering combustible objects located near the wires. Extinguishing burning insulation electrical network in the apartment, you need to find out if it burns further behind the group shield, at the entrance to the house.