We insulate the walls of a wooden house. High-quality insulation of a wooden house from the inside Insulate walls in a wooden house from the inside

Wood has been used in construction since ancient times. This material is valued for its affordability and thermal conductivity. A house made of timber requires proper care then it will always be comfortable. Many have noticed that two or three years after construction, the house becomes noticeably colder. This is due to the fact that all the walls of the building are in constant motion.

The position of the bars changes slightly and cracks appear along the seams, even correctly installed windows over time, drafts begin to pass. Construction flaws can also manifest themselves. In fact, fixing all these reasons is not difficult even with your own hands. If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the house, we will tell you how to insulate log house from within.

Why inside wooden house cold:

1. Walls. Small gaps in the seams of a wooden house - the most common cause lack of heat in the rooms.
2. Windows and doors. Eternal sources of drafts and heat losses in any home.
3. Ceiling. It is known from the course of physics that warm air rises up. If the upper part of the house from the timber is not sufficiently insulated, the heat simply escapes.
4. Floor of the first floor. In any house he has large area. Cold from the ground can greatly cool the air in the house.

Consider in order what you can do with your own hands with each of these reasons.

First, the walls of the house need to be caulked. For this, a special tool is used - a caulk. If it is not available, a hard spatula or a wide screwdriver is used. Tow, hemp, felt or jute rope are used as insulation. It is not difficult to do it with your own hands, the main thing is to correctly follow the sequence of actions.

You need to start caulking from the bottom seam around the entire perimeter of the house, only then move on to the next one.

The insulation must be driven into the cracks of the timber as densely and deeply as possible. You need to understand that after finishing work, the ceiling height will increase by several centimeters. Therefore, if you caulk each part of the house separately, one of the walls may collapse - the timber will simply pop out of the groove. Another way is to apply acrylic or silicone sealant at the junction of the beam.

If you are not satisfied with the result achieved, experts advise to additionally insulate the walls with thermal insulation. To do this, a guide beam is vertically attached to the wall, its height should be equal to the thickness insulating material. The entire surface is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Insulation is laid tightly between the guides, without gaps. For this purpose, any sheet material is suitable. After that, it remains only to make decorative wall cladding.

Windows and doors - how to get rid of the cold

The two main causes of cold entrance doors and windows - drafts and insufficient thermal insulation. Very often, cold from openings is confused with drafts. To determine the cause of a heat leak, you just need to make sure that the doors and windows are actually blowing or not. To do this, you need to hold a burning lighter at a short distance along the perimeter of the frame and sashes.

If the draft comes from the sashes, you need to seal all joints. To do this, it will be enough to stick a silicone seal with your own hands. You can also use foam rubber, but it has a short service life. You can also glue the windows with construction tape for the winter.

If it seeps through the perimeter of the frame, it is necessary to remove the trim and window sill to get to the opening between the wall and the frame. Then the opening is glued with waterproofing and insulated. As thermal insulation, you can use any roll insulation or mounting foam. From above, the insulation must be pasted over with aluminum or reinforced tape, after which the platbands are put in place.

If it feels cold from the door, but there is no draft, you need to check the thermal insulation of the door. To do this, experts advise simply knocking on the canvas. The hollow structure from the inside will have to be changed. A window with single glazing can freeze in the cold season. In this case, you will have to install new windows.

Insulation of the roof and ceiling of a wooden house

Many do not consider heat loss through the roof and ceiling significant. In fact, there are often gaps through which the log house simply heats the street. Also, the surface of the roof can heat up from poor thermal insulation of the ceiling. By getting rid of these losses, you can save up to 60% of heating costs.

Before you begin to insulate the upper part of the wooden house, you should seal the entire seam upper beam walls and roof structures.

If the attic in the house is non-residential, it is very simple to insulate the ceiling with your own hands. To do this, a layer of thermal insulation of about forty centimeters is laid there. You need to understand that the insulation for the ceiling should be light. Typically, sawdust, polystyrene, mineral wool and other lightweight materials are used for this purpose.

If the ceiling is a roof vault, insulation is a little more difficult. To begin with, the entire surface of the roof from the inside must be covered with a layer of waterproofing so that moisture does not get on the insulation. Roof insulation is done in two ways:

1. Sheet insulation is laid tightly to each other. At the same time, it is necessary to give Special attention the absence of gaps between the sheets, because between them the heat will still go out.
2. Sheet insulation is laid from top to bottom with an overlap. This is done for additional protection against moisture, it will simply drain over the sheets of thermal insulation.

After that, it remains to ennoble the surface with decorative trim. For this purpose, lining is perfect.

Solving the cold floor problem

Home heating will not work efficiently if the house has cold floors. They cool the room and do not allow the air to warm up.

The wooden floor is insulated very simply, for this it is necessary to remove the floor upholstery. In order not to confuse the order in which the boards lay, it is better to mark them in advance. This will save a lot of time during assembly. Then the entire surface between the lags is covered with waterproofing so that the insulation does not pick up moisture from the soil.

The heat-insulating material is laid on it in such a way that there are no slightest cracks over the entire surface of the floor. Insulation is used by anyone who is not afraid of moisture. On top, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing, because when cleaning the premises, water can get there and accumulate inside. After that, the floor boards will need to be laid in the reverse order.

The cement floor is insulated in two ways. If the height of the premises allows, logs are laid on the floor from wooden beam. Between them, a heater is laid, which is closed with waterproofing from above. Then the floor is upholstered with a board.

If the ceiling height does not allow you to raise the floor level, you need to remove cement screed and remove the backfill of the floor by about half a meter. After that, the pit is waterproofed and the insulation is filled up. Usually expanded clay is used for this. A layer of foam or other dense material is laid on top of it. A new screed is made on top.

Warming a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is not a mandatory procedure: according to by and large, with quality external thermal insulation you can do without it. On the other hand, we often strive to preserve the appearance of external walls made of logs and timber, so the heat-insulating contours willy-nilly have to be moved inside the room.

The process of thermal insulation itself is quite complicated and labor-intensive. That is why the work must begin with careful planning, since we will need a lot of time, effort, and money.

Approach 1. Interventional insulation

caulking slots

Starting the installation of thermal insulation circuits, it is worth assessing the condition of the walls themselves. As a rule, both in new houses and in structures that have already been in operation, it becomes necessary to seal the interventional seams. It is through these seams that a significant part of the heat flows passes, therefore, by blocking them, we will significantly raise the temperature in the room.

An additional plus is the absence of drafts, which also greatly reduce the level of comfort inside the house.

The simplest and therefore the most common way to seal the gaps between the crowns of a log or timber is caulking with various fibrous materials. I will describe the features of these materials in the table below:

The caulking process itself is simple. Below I will tell you how to caulk the gaps between the logs with your own hands:

1. We clean the gaps between the crowns from dust and debris.
2. If necessary (if signs of damage by fungi or bacteria are found), we treat the tree with antiseptic impregnation.
3. We put material for sealing in the gap.
4. We take a caulk - a metal or wooden spatula - and with the help of a hammer or mallet we hammer the material into the slot.

1. We repeat the operations until the gap is filled, and the tool begins to spring and bounce off the material.
2. After some time (we will give the bars time for a slight shrinkage), carefully cut off the excess material.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but I must immediately warn you - this is not a quick matter. Especially if you caulk the walls big house by oneself.

Warm seam

An alternative to caulking is the technology of the so-called warm seam. At one time, choosing the best way to finish a wall, the lining of which was not planned, I settled on this option. The advantages of this technique can be considered not only the neat appearance of the wall after processing (indeed, the log house looks much more attractive), but also the preservation of vapor permeability, which is not always obtained with standard methods of insulation.

To equip a warm seam, it is necessary to purchase a length of sealing cord sufficient to process all the crowns. Cords can be used different:

• acrylic;
• latex;
• polyethylene foam;
• butyl rubber;
• linen;
• jute, etc.

In addition, to fill the gap, you will definitely need a sealant, which is more convenient to apply with a special gun.

The arrangement of warm seams inside with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. All gaps between the crowns are carefully cleaned, and deep cracks in the logs are embroidered to prevent spreading.
2. Then, a sealing cord is laid into each cavity to a depth of 20-30 mm. Since elastic materials are used, the cord is fixed in the gap due to its own elasticity, without additional fixation.
3. A layer of sealant is applied over the cord, which fills the gap to front surface walls. If necessary, the sealant is smoothed down with a joint soaked in water, and its excess is removed from the surface with a wet rag.

After polymerization, the sealant with the cord forms a protective contour that effectively retains heat and prevents blowing, but at the same time maintains vapor permeability. This ensures natural ventilation premises and maintaining optimal humidity conditions.

Both caulking and the arrangement of a warm seam can be used even when the internal insulation of the log house is not planned. At the same time, these methods do not provide maximum energy savings, therefore, if you want to really save on heating and ensure that in winter wooden house it will not be cold, then you should think about installing an additional heat-insulating circuit.

Approach 2. Thermal insulation on the frame

Lathing installation

In this section, I will tell you how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside. If you understand how the heat-insulating circuit works, then there should be no problems, but still, before starting work, it is worth studying the optimal algorithm.

We start traditionally - with surface preparation and installation of a frame for insulation:

1. If the thermal insulation of the old house is being performed, then the walls must be cleaned of the remnants of the finish. Both wallpaper and dilapidated lining under a layer of insulation will not save us a single extra degree, but they will serve as an excellent substrate for the development of bacteria and fungi.
2. After that, we impregnate the walls with an antiseptic. deep penetration. It’s clear why: it will be warm and relatively humid under the skin, so if we don’t take care of comprehensive biosecurity, then the appearance of fungi will become a matter of time. And for a very short time.

Since we have taken up the impregnation of the walls, at the same time we can treat them with flame retardants. Of course, reducing the combustibility of wood will not protect us from fire by 100%, but this is exactly the situation when slowing down combustion for a few minutes can be decisive.

1. The next step is the installation of the membrane. Its main task is to protect the heat-insulating material from moisture in contact with wood. Important aspect: polyethylene cannot be used here, since it completely blocks the exit of water vapor through the wall to the outside, so either we take a diffuse membrane with a good indicator vapor permeability, or we refuse this layer altogether and hope that we have sealed the gaps between the crowns well.

1. Next is the crate. It can also be made from metal profile, but I prefer to work with wood. We install bars with a cross section from 30x30 to 50x50 mm either directly on the wall or on steel brackets, forming a gap, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the insulation.
2. Under the base of each metal bracket, it is worth laying either a piece of roofing material or a paronite gasket - in order to avoid the formation of a cold bridge.

Installation of insulation and cladding

The next step is the installation of thermal insulation material. Many use foam to save money, but it seems to me that the game is not worth the candle. Yes, we will save a significant part of the heat with this material, but due to the low (almost zero) vapor permeability, the natural ventilation of the walls will be disturbed. As a result, the humidity in the room will increase, and in order to normalize it, we will have to ventilate the rooms more often, losing the stored heat.

Therefore, before insulating a wooden house with my own hands from the inside, I considered two options - mineral wool and ecowool (loose cellulose insulation). I settled on mineral wool, which I mounted in this way:

1. material installed in the cells of the crate. I initially made the frame for the insulation in accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool boards, so I almost did not have to spend time and effort on trimming.

1. Fastened over a layer of mineral wool vapor barrier membrane. Both glassine and polyethylene can be used here, but I prefer membrane materials.
2. Then I installed a counter-lattice of 20x40 mm rails. I attached the bars of the counter-lattice to load-bearing elements frame in such a way that between the insulation and the skin was air gap in 30 - 50 mm for ventilation.

1. AT ventilation gap paved concealed wiring. At the same time, all the wires were packed in a metal hose with a wall thickness that completely eliminates burnout.

Do not use standard plastic corrugation - the risk of fire is too great.

1. I used pine as a sheathing, but you can use a blockhouse, a false beam, and even materials based on MDF.
2. In principle, the instruction also allows for sheathing with insulated log wall drywall, followed by puttying and finishing, but I don’t like this option. And really, why bother with the construction of a wooden house in order to get a result after all the work that can be reproduced in a typical panel high-rise building?

Ecowool is a good alternative to mineral fiber insulation, but I was stopped by the fact that it is necessary to involve specialists with sophisticated equipment to perform thermal insulation work. However, the money would have come out about the same. So this option is definitely worth considering:

1. For insulation with ecowool, we sheathe the frame with plywood about 10 - 15 mm thick.
2. We leave holes in the plywood sheathing for filling with heat-insulating material.

1. The hose from the compressor with cellulose fiber is inserted into the hole in the casing, after which the insulation under pressure enters the closed cavity.
2. Filling is carried out in layers to avoid the formation of air pockets that reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

Underground space as a separate area

The internal thermal insulation of a wooden house also includes the insulation of the underground space. To the question of whether it is possible not to insulate the floor, I would give a positive answer only in one case: if there is a basement with high-quality thermal insulation below. In all other cases, and especially if the floor is laid on the ground, you cannot do without an additional contour.

The general algorithm is:

1. We carefully compact the soil under the floor, after which we fill up a layer of gravel or a sand-gravel mixture up to 30 cm thick.
2. On top of the gravel we form a bed of expanded clay: the thicker the layer, the better.

1. Instead of expanded clay, you can use slab heat-insulating materials - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To lay them from below, we attach a plywood hemming layer to the lags, on which we place the insulation.
2. Lay on top of the insulated layer waterproofing material: foil film, glassine, paronite, etc. waterproofing should cover all logs, leaving only 5-10 cm free from each edge for moisture vapor to escape from the wood.

1. From above we lay a rough flooring from boards or thick plywood. There should also be an air gap between the flooring and the insulation for natural ventilation.

Reference materials for budgeting

As you can see from the description, we have a fairly large-scale project ahead of us. That is why it is worth approaching it with all responsibility, and most importantly, drawing up a fairly detailed budget.

This will help you reference materials given in the table:

Conclusion

Choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the inside is quite simple - not so many materials can be used for this purpose. It is much more difficult to properly mount thermal insulation circuits, and the tips above will help you here, as well as the informative video in this article. At the same time, of course, you can contact me with any questions: in the comments to the article, I will try to answer them as fully and reasonably as possible.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The owners think about the need to insulate a wooden house at a low temperature in the rooms in winter, the appearance of dampness and mold on the walls, high cost heating.

Professional builders recommend insulating the walls of buildings from the outside, but there are situations when this is unacceptable. In such cases, thermal insulation is mounted indoors. Such work will be inexpensive. The article tells how to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside and outside.

Features of wall insulation in a wooden house

The wood used in construction has features that must be taken into account.

Wood - vapor-permeable material, if used improperly, dampens, becomes infected with a fungus, covered with mold, destroyed by pests. Over time, the house settles in logs or timber cracks appear.

Old house made of logs, traces of aging of the outer walls are visible

Properly designed and installed system insulation reduces Negative influence to a minimum - otherwise there is no need to talk about the durability of the structure.

Comparison of thermal insulation methods

Insulation of wooden walls is possible from the inside and outside, each of the methods has advantages and disadvantages. To accept correct solution the information collected in the table will help about the method of installing thermal insulation.

Before deciding on the method of carrying out the work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the options for insulating a wooden house from the inside or outside.

Material selection

For warming internal surfaces walls of the house and facades, many specialized heaters have been developed, each of which, however, requires proper use.

Insulation is supplied in the form of piece products or rolls.

When choosing, take into account:

• price;
• service life during which performance characteristics and the geometric shape of the thermal insulation;
• fire and sanitary safety (availability of certificates);
• thermal conductivity characteristics;
• resistance to mechanical damage and climatic conditions.

Polystyrene has long been successfully used for thermal insulation of buildings. The mechanical properties and size of the sheets allow you to insulate the house with your own hands, and if you have the skill, you can do without helpers. There are two types of thermal insulation sheet material made from polystyrene. They differ in the way they are made.

Expanded polystyrene is called polystyrene foam. Represents plates white color. Balls are visible on the crack different sizes.

Erudite polystyrene is most often light yellow or orange color, it is denser than foam.

Styrofoam

The material is well suited for warming a wooden house.

Advantages:

• light weight - 98% of the volume of the product is occupied by air;
• maintaining dimensional accuracy during long-term operation;
• low thermal conductivity;
• the possibility of mounting in different ways;
• self-extinguishing within 4 seconds - without maintaining combustion with an open fire, the foam goes out.

Foam Disadvantages:

• releases toxic substances when heated above 80 o C;

• easily damaged by mechanical action;
• quickly destroyed by exposure to sunlight;
• low vapor permeability, which must be taken into account, and facade ventilation should be provided.

When buying a heater, it should be borne in mind that a material with a density of 15 kg / m 3 cannot bear a mechanical load, so it cannot be plastered. Styrofoam with a density of 25 kg / m 3 can be plastered and used for street insulation. With a mass of insulation of 35 kg / m 3 and above, you can walk on it and most often the material is used for thermal insulation of floors. It is not economically feasible to use foam with such a density for walls.

Extruded polystyrene

Insulation on sale is found under the names Penoplex, Penoplex. Sheets have grooves (selections) along the edges, which allows them to be stacked with an overlap. This eliminates additional sealing of seams. The density of the material is higher than that of polystyrene, any extruded polystyrene can be plastered.

As with the use of foam plastic for insulating wooden houses, ventilated facades are arranged.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is obtained by melting rocks. It consists of fibers, between which is a large number of air, which provides thermal insulation properties. AT trade organizations Supplied in rolls or as slabs in standard sizes.

Material advantages:

• ease of installation;
• democratic price;
• does not support combustion;
• high rates of heat and sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• high vapor permeability, commensurate with wood;

The main disadvantage is the ability of mineral wool to absorb water, while losing thermal insulation properties. Over time, the material shrinks and shrinks, and performance decreases.

To reduce the impact of water and moisture from the air, mineral wool is protected with a special waterproofing film.

glass wool

The structure of glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but inferior in performance and manufacturability. When exposed to water and humid air quickly loses its thermal insulation properties. Over several years, it becomes caked, which leads to a deterioration in performance. The installation of glass wool requires strict adherence to safety precautions - the smallest particles penetrate the lungs during breathing and enter the eyes, causing irritation of the mucous membranes.

Ecowool

The material is obtained from waste paper and cardboard during the processing of waste paper, as well as waste from the textile industry. Additives prevent rotting, caking, combustibility of ecowool, insects and rodents consider the material unattractive for eating and nesting.

Laying ecowool on your own will not work - the material is sprayed, mixed with water by special installations.

Isoplaat

Wood fiber boards from sawdust coniferous trees produced without the use of chemical components.

The surface of the pressed sheets is treated with paraffin, which reduces the susceptibility to decay. The vapor permeability of the material is approximately equal to the characteristics of wood, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate between the wall and the insulation. Used for outdoor and internal way installation.

Foil insulation

The material is a foam substrate with a glued layer aluminum foil. It is found on sale under the names Penofol, Isolon, Izodom, etc.

The material performs several functions:

• thermal insulation;
• soundproofing;
• waterproofing;
• wind protection.

Products are resistant to chemical, thermal, biological effects and decay. Installation is reduced to fixing on wooden surface stapler or with nailed rails. When using foil materials, the insulation is nailed with a stapler, then the master has to decide how to sheathe the wall - drywall, distillation, plastic siding.

Warming process

Thermal insulation in log house It will be of high quality if you follow simple rules and a sequence of manipulations. Deviation from the algorithm and incorrect alternation of layers will make the results of labor meaningless.

There are two methods: frame and frameless. They are applicable for outdoor and indoor use.

Frameless way

Without pre-fabrication of the frame, it is possible to insulate with polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene, basalt mineral wool, Isolat - that is, materials with structural rigidity. The foil material also does not imply a frame structure, although it can be used as one of the layers of the "pie".

Before installing the insulation, the walls are thoroughly cleaned of dust and dirt. Cut off or grind irregularities - the insulation should fit snugly against the base.

The simplest and fast way insulate the house - use Isolate plates. They are simply nailed with wide-head nails or screwed with self-tapping screws. Of the tools you will need a hacksaw for cutting sheets to size, a hammer or a screwdriver. The surface of the slab is plastered or trimmed with siding. Absence finishing will lead to the destruction of sheets under the influence of climatic factors.

Polystyrene sheets are attached to wooden base self-tapping screws using wide plastic washers. Under the influence of ultraviolet, the foam quickly loses its mechanical properties, therefore, with external insulation, plastering work will be required within 20-30 days.

At the first stage, cement-based adhesives are used. Use a special mounting adhesive for polystyrene foam or adhesive for ceramic tiles.

The surface of the foam is covered with a thin 1-1.5 mm layer of glue, a fiberglass mesh is applied and sunk into the applied solution. Reapplying and leveling adhesive composition. After drying, the base is treated with a primer and plastered using any composition compatible with cement. For example, plaster bark beetle. Surface can be painted facade paints.

Similarly, insulation is carried out with basalt slabs.

Frame option

Frame method installation of insulation can be used for any materials, but mainly it is used for the installation of mineral wool. In the case of using foam, the grate can be used to fasten a finish on it, for example, siding.

Installation sequence:

• surface cleaning;
• treatment of wooden walls with a bioprotective primer (antiseptic) and flame retardants (fire retardant impregnation);
• frame installation;
• installation of insulation between the crate;
• installation of a windproof membrane or plate;
• finishing installation.

The opinion is often expressed about the need to install a vapor barrier film between the beams of the walls and the insulation. Such a membrane can fulfill its purpose if the insulation is. For materials that are not vapor-permeable, such a layer is useless - moisture will accumulate at the “wood-insulation” border, accelerating the processes of decay.

For roll materials, the sequence may be different:

• surface preparation, chemical treatment;
• fixing brackets on the wall surface, on which the crate will be attached in the future;
• consolidation roll material using dowel pins.
• Cutting holes in mineral wool through which the brackets protrude outward;
• Installation of a hydro-windproof membrane;
• Fastening finish coat to the frame.

Choosing the right thermal insulation material and following the above rules, you can qualitatively insulate a wooden house from a bar or boards. Comfort on winter evenings and lower energy bills will be a reward for hard work.

Everything about wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house: what material is better to use, the need internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate with mineral wool inside.

According to the masters, the external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than the internal one. This is related to the concept of dew point.

The formation of condensate on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on outside it will not go beyond the hydro- or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house is possible only if other options are not acceptable for any reason.

The need for internal insulation

Before deciding on such interior finishes, you should consider what they can be fraught with:

1. Violation of the natural "breathing" of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
2. Changing the microclimate in the rooms due to high humidity.
3. Reducing the area of ​​each room.

If such good reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then it is worth looking positive sides internal insulation and focus on them:

1. The ability to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to this as possible.
2. A beautiful view of the facade, especially if it is made of logs, can be preserved in its original form.
3. Such work requires more easy installation that even a beginner can do.
4. The internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house is several times cheaper than the external one.

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to produce construction and Finishing work of any complexity and quite at a decent price. Before deciding to take any action, you should be well acquainted with what materials it offers. modern market and answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.

Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this frame house, then these will be some properties, and for a log house of thick logs - others.

Today, manufacturers of heaters offer the following types of materials:

All of these materials have a place to be in the modern construction market, but the choice is up to the consumer, to which of them he entrusts the safety and warmth of his home.

Wall preparation and lathing

As always, the insulation of walls in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:

1. Even the most best wood may form gaps at the joints during shrinkage. They should be sealed with sealant or in another way.
2. It is imperative that as a preventive measure it is necessary to carry out bio- and fire protection of the walls. Since thermal insulation is mounted for years, this will save it under any unforeseen circumstances.

   To keep the house from rotting, in without fail when laying thermal insulation, you need to make an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to walls made of logs.

3. Caulking of walls is necessary if they are made of timber. Jute is well suited for this, as the cheapest and proven by many generations of builders material.

In no case should the preparation of the walls be ignored, as this may affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.

Owners should think not only about how to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of it that, first of all, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room inside decreases, but it also gives the entire structure a shape and the necessary stability.

For the crate, a square bar with a section of 50 mm is used, and the step depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the cells formed, if it is mineral wool, or they are exactly sized for expanded polystyrene boards.

Prior to installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall with screws.

After the crate is installed in each room, you can proceed directly to solving the question of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.

Wall insulation from the inside of a wooden house

mineral wool

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a “mat” is used to insulate walls from the inside. To cope with the first, you will need work in 4 hands, while the second can be handled on your own.

Laying is carried out from the floor to the ceiling, observing a tight fit so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, then they need to be repaired, and then proceed with laying the next layer of the “pie” - the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary rather to protect the mineral wool from exposure external environment rooms than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped with a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, then they must immediately be covered with tape.

After the work done, it is necessary to mount another crate, but opposite to the first. It is on it that the finish coating will be attached.

Styrofoam

This material can also be attached to the crate, but there is an easier way that does not take up much living space. The prepared and processed wall must be smeared with a layer of glue and put foam sheets on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base is completely dry, the plates can be fixed with nails, cover the gaps and proceed with the finishing.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not desirable, but is acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for these works.
3. Before proceeding with the insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If there is not enough knowledge on the composition of the material and the correctness of its installation, you should consult with a specialist so that after years you will not regret the wasted money. Even such a simple, at first glance, work as caulking the walls requires skills and attention, and without creating ventilation, the “life” of the building can be significantly reduced. All this should be considered before the start of warming. internal walls wooden house.

Wall insulation in a wooden house from the inside must be done, of course. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this, the room will be damp.

How to insulate the walls in a wooden house from the inside, we will consider today. Also on the video in this article and the photo you can see the whole process of doing the work clearly.

Preparation for the main types of work

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the desired sequence. This will depend on the quality of the work performed.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And so, it is necessary to make calculations for the further choice of insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that during such work, membranes are used (steam insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, set:

• Dew point output. This is one of highlights, with this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how, in the end, it will be humid in the room, it directly depends on this, even in cases of high-quality material, and well-done work. Both the location of the membranes and their properties are taken into account (for different manufacturers they can differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to wetting).
• Calculation of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, given that it will decrease. It may not turn out to be a comparison (an increase in slopes, and in the presence of a furnace, it will change safe distance, between the wall and the stove, which is unacceptable for fire safety).

Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. It is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. It must be understood that the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity is decay, smell, and, in the end, premature decay.

Rules for performing insulation work

Do-it-yourself wall insulation of a wooden house from the inside is done if there is quality materials. Preference should be given to trusted brands, you can save a little on Chinese material, but you will significantly lose in performance.

What is needed to carry out the work

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside is done with heaters, there are quite a few of them. But you need to start from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.

By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:

1. Have low thermal conductivity;
2. Meet the requirements of fire safety;
3. Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.

Attention: When choosing a heater, the density and heat transfer qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature characteristics, as well as the state of the building itself.

• The material used must not support combustion, emit hazardous compounds into the air, contain hazardous chemical elements. For internal works, the material is selected with great care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can be dangerous, both for people and for pets.

Types and types of insulation materials

When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide what material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depends on the type of material.

From possible ways used indoors - use:

Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from a practical point of view.

Sealing gaps, preparing the surface for insulation

From the moment the building was built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks”, the constant movement of materials. As a result, gaps and cracks are formed that must be repaired to stop heat loss.

• Joints between logs (or timber) - caulk. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.