How to make a self-leveling floor at home. How to make self-leveling floors with your own hands - from preparing the base to pouring the mixture. Methods for creating poured floors

For all its magnificence and strength, self-leveling flooring is quite simple to implement. How to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands, read our article.

Not so long ago, self-leveling floors became very popular in Russia. In order to properly fill the floor in your house or apartment, we will first find out what kind of animal this is, and then we will move on to the filling technology.

What is self-leveling floor

Many people, when starting renovations, wonder what flooring to choose. Now there is a large selection of different materials: linoleum, different types laminate, tile. We advise you to pay attention to self-leveling floors that are gaining popularity. This seamless coating, also called liquid linoleum, consists of polymer materials. You only have to look at the finished floor to appreciate it. Smooth, shiny surface, choice of any color. Such floors are warm, durable, hard - you don’t have to be afraid of scratching them. At the same time, making a self-leveling floor in an apartment with your own hands is quite simple.

Helpful information:

Types of self-leveling floors

• Plain, you can choose either a glossy or matte surface.
• With a photo drawing, with different patterns.
• The self-leveling floor is 3D, the proportions of the picture change and are stretched into perspective. The 3D effect is visible from only one point.
• Mosaic made of polymers, use of ornamental stones.
• Using colored quartz sand.

Self-leveling floor 3d - an original solution for brave people

The most important advantage of this coating is its ease of implementation. So how to make a self-leveling floor with your own hands? The work will be completed in several stages.

Preparatory step

The self-leveling coating can be poured onto wooden, concrete floors, cement screed and even onto tiles. The main requirement is a flat surface. Here's how to prepare it:

1. Remove debris, stains, old paint and etc.
2. Seal all cracks with a special adhesive.
3. Level if necessary with a sander.
4. Check using a building level.

It is best to use special mixtures to level any surfaces. They are called screeds. Such mixtures can be purchased at any hardware store. It is better to choose a universal mixture. In what proportions to dilute the mixture, see the instructions. This will be the basis for our floor. At the same time, the screed will give rigidity to the base and increase thermal insulation.

Before starting work, ensure perfect flat surface using screed and primer

After the screed is done, you can start priming. It is needed so that when pouring self-leveling floors there are no air bubbles, the mixture spreads better over the surface, and there is good adhesion of the base to the self-leveling floor. If the surface is dry, then the primer should be applied in several layers, each subsequent one applied no earlier than after 4 hours. Use a roller, brushes or spray. A little sand is poured onto the last layer of primer to roughen the surface for even greater adhesion to the self-leveling floor. After complete drying (after about 24 hours), you can proceed to the main stage.

Necessary tools for pouring the floor

Prepare the tools we will need:

1. Drill with a special attachment for stirring the mixture.
2. Roller with needles to level the mixture.
3. Spatula to get to hard to reach places(batteries, pipes).
4. To move on the surface, use a special sole with spikes, crampons.
5. Plastic container for mixture.
6. Large container for water (barrel, bathtub).

Leveling the filling mixture must be done with a special spatula

Pouring self-leveling floor with your own hands

Provide a certain temperature regime in the room where the floors will be poured. The recommended temperature is from +15° to 25°, but it is better to check the instructions. Next, it is better to work together: while one prepares the mixture, the other distributes it.

First prepare the mixture. According to the instructions, pour the powder into a container with water and mix it thoroughly with water using a drill. Make sure that there are no lumps or air bubbles in the resulting solution. The prepared mixture is not stored for a long time; it must be used within an hour.

The needle roller avoids the formation of bubbles on the floor surface

The floor of the apartment must be filled in portions, starting from the wall located opposite the entrance. The mixture is poured in strips, without interruption, using all prepared tools. The thickness of the self-leveling floor should be about 3-5 mm. If bubbles form on the surface, you need to roll them with a needle roller.

After pouring, allow the surface to dry. Do not try to immediately arrange the furniture, but wait at least 5 days: a long drying time will increase the quality of your floors, there will be no dents or cracks on it.

After finishing filling, leave the floor to dry for 5 days

Rules for caring for self-leveling floors

In order for your floors to look beautiful, you need to apply a protective mastic to their surface. She covers the floors protective film from dents and scratches. It needs to be updated approximately 2 times a year.

Floors should be wet cleaned as they become dirty; use a soft, non-aggressive detergent and fabric designed for such surfaces. You can use a vacuum cleaner with a wet cleaning function.

Thanks to regular care, your self-leveling floors will last for decades aesthetic appearance and will surprise your guests.

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Are you renovating your apartment and don’t know what type of flooring to choose? In addition to traditional materials - laminate, tiles and linoleum, polymer self-leveling floors have become very popular. They are good as self-covering, and a substrate for other materials, and in some cases they are simply irreplaceable. Let's figure out what a self-leveling floor is and how to make it correctly.

Advantages self-leveling coatings:

• The surface is solid and smooth, there are no joints or seams, so it is good to use in bathrooms and toilets, in a word, wherever good waterproofing is required.
• It has good resistance to mechanical, temperature and chemical influences. This coating will look great in the hallway, and there will be no problems with cleaning.
• Huge variety of color options and different design solutions will help transform your home beyond recognition.
• The self-leveling floor is hygienic and does not attract dust.

Classification of self-leveling coatings

All floors differ in their composition and purpose:

1. Methyl methacrylate is a quick-drying option; when working with it, the room should be well ventilated. Protective equipment will not be superfluous. There is no smell left after drying. It is possible to use various additives.
2. Acrylic-cement – ​​the most cheap option floor, but with good moisture resistance. An excellent option for bathrooms, saunas, car washes. Does not require preliminary surface preparation, and the layer thickness can reach 25-30 cm.
3. Polyurethane – characterized by high mechanical strength, therefore it is most often used in office, warehouse and industrial premises. The price of such a floor is high, but it pays off with its long service life. A wide selection of colors that do not fade in the sun and do not fade.
4. Epoxy flooring is impervious to chemicals, aggressive liquids, acids, and oils; it is durable and does not collect dust on its surface. Can be used in medical and educational institutions, garages.
5. Epoxy-urethane - the highest degree of wear resistance. It is used in crowded places, vestibules, passage areas and platforms.

In addition to differences in composition, the floor surface may differ in the following characteristics: matte, semi-matte, glossy, semi-gloss.

Separately, it is worth noting the screeds for leveling and rough finishing. They are necessary to level out significant differences in height. Cement mortar with the addition of plasticizers or a gypsum mixture can be used.

DIY pouring technology

When the design and type of floor has been selected, materials and tools have been purchased, you can begin to work. For convenience, all operations can be divided into several stages.

Surface preparation

Most often there are two base options: concrete floor and wooden base.

There are no difficulties with a concrete floor. The surface is cleaned, the humidity is checked - no more than 4%. If the foundation has been poured recently, it is advisable to wait at least four weeks. Tile tested for strength, dust and dirt are removed, uneven surfaces are puttied using fiberglass. Check the level deviations from the horizontal, correct the bending with a screed, if necessary.

Wood floors usually require more attention. First, we remove the old baseboards and remove paint using metal brush and a spatula. We finally bring the boards to condition with sandpaper, after which we thoroughly vacuum and wash the floor.

Now you can secure the loose individual boards and begin sealing the cracks with sealant. This mandatory procedure is done in order to prevent the solution from leaking into the joints.

If the base is heavily contaminated or its strength is in doubt, manufacturers recommend using a special separating layer made of ordinary polyethylene with a thickness of 100 microns.

A special damper tape is glued around the perimeter to compensate for thermal expansion and possible movements of the floor covering.

For an expected layer with a thickness of 1-2 centimeters, reference beacons may be needed. We install them level at an equal distance from each other. For an opaque floor, you can use regular self-tapping screws.

1. Priming the floor must be done to improve adhesion, fill micropores in the surface and better fillability with the solution. The primer can be penetrating or strengthening (Betonkontakt, St-17, Putzgrunt). Apply with a roller or brush over the entire floor area with mandatory drying between layers for 12 hours. From this stage, the air temperature in the room should be constant, drafts are excluded.
2. Preparation of the solution. To do this we need a plastic bucket or basin, a drill with an attachment or a construction mixer. Detailed instructions for preparing the solution and proportions are always indicated on the packaging.

A strictly measured amount of water at a temperature of about 20 degrees is poured into the container, then the dry mixture is introduced, continuously stirring, and finally brought to the desired consistency, stirring for 10-15 minutes. The lifetime of the finished solution is 40-60 minutes and depends on the base binder component. The longest-drying ones will be cement-based.

Important! For a high-quality self-leveling coating, the proportions must be observed very accurately. Excess moisture leads to delamination and deterioration of strength. A solution that is too viscous will be difficult to install.

You can do a simple readiness test. The prepared solution is poured into a ring made from scrap materials with a diameter of 5 centimeters and the same height. Then the ring is removed, the mixture spreads over the surface and the diameter of the resulting spot is measured. It should be between 16 and 18 centimeters.

Preparing to pour the floor

The tool at this stage is as follows:

• squeegee;
• wide spatula;
• needle roller with a long handle;
• solvent and polyethylene film;
• paint shoes;
• laser level (or similar device for determining the horizontal).

Before pouring the main component, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the mixture with a reserve. This can be conveniently done using laser level, when the height differences and thickness of the proposed layer are clearly visible.

If you are planning a backing with a pattern or a built-in composition with a 3D effect, then its placement occurs at this stage. Individual fragments are well fixed with glue or “liquid nails”.

Required Tools

How to fill correctly

We always start on the far wall from the entrance. Pour the solution onto the floor and level it with a spatula. Pour the next portion next to it and also level it. Use a squeegee to adjust the thickness of the fill. The interval between fillings should not exceed 10 minutes.

We roll each section with a roller and smooth it out to release all air bubbles, the surface will then be dense, smooth and uniform.

Now it can take from 6 hours to several days until it dries completely. At this time, it is recommended to cover the floor with polyethylene for uniform drying. Drafts during the curing process of the solution are worst enemies and should be avoided.

After complete drying, inspect the floor for defects and cracks. If necessary, you can repeat the filling with a finishing thin layer. We coat the finished and cleaned surface with varnish or leave it as is. It will be possible to bring in and arrange furniture and other equipment 4-6 days after completion of the work.

A separate type of self-leveling floors can be considered transparent coatings with a pattern or decorative composition. Such a surface is obtained as a result of polymerization of the compound. When applied, it resembles regular varnish - it spreads well, and after hardening, a very transparent, durable film remains. This floor consists of six layers:

• Concrete or wooden base;
• Primer layer;
• The base polymer layer serves to level the surface and serve as the basis for the pattern. The base material must be compatible in its characteristics with the finishing layer;
• Decorative layer (banner fabric with print, stone chips, film, paint, wood, shells, etc.);
• A lens layer of special varnish to give a volumetric effect;
• Protective transparent layer 3-4 mm thick.

The fundamental difference from traditional self-leveling flooring is the finishing layer. It uses a two-component polymer or epoxy mixture consisting of a resin and a hardener. It gives the surface strength and elegant appearance.

You can order a banner with a printed design at any printing house. You can try to find the original drawing yourself. To do this, you will need a camera and any graphic editor, for example, photoshop. We load a photo of a room or a section of floor into the editor and begin experimenting with various pictures and drawings.

Looks good marine theme in the bathroom, landscapes and vegetation in the hallway and kitchen. We select the resolution of the drawings to be no less than 300 dpi, otherwise there will be no clear lines when printing in full format. By using this method, you can reduce the cost of purchasing a ready-made substrate for a 3D floor.

Pros and cons of self-leveling floors

If we summarize all the experience in operating self-leveling coatings, we can highlight the following advantages:

• Excellent wear resistance and impact resistance. Easily withstands heavy furniture and equipment;
• Practicality and long service life. Monochrome floors are not wiped, their color does not change under the influence of ultraviolet radiation and chemicals;
• Hypoallergenic, does not attract dust and is very easy to clean. The material is non-flammable, so in the event of a fire it will not be a source of toxic gases, unlike linoleum. It is good to lay under the surface of such a floor various systems heating (electric, liquid);
• Water resistance makes them indispensable in the bathroom and kitchen. Sudden leaks can be easily eliminated without flooding neighbors from the lower floor;
• The variety of bases therefore different price, designed for buyers of any income. Wide selection of colors;
• Does not require long preparatory work and very simple filling.

Unfortunately, there are also disadvantages:

• The appearance of the floor will not suit connoisseurs classic design– parquet and laminate have already become classics in renovation;
• The finished mixture in liquid form is toxic, so work must be carried out in protective equipment. This is especially true for quick-drying mixtures and epoxy-based finishing layers;
• To accurately fill, you will need a special tool;
• Price of one square meter still higher than traditional floor coverings and can easily reach 5,000 rubles per 1 sq. m.
• The surface will always be cold to the touch, this is especially noticeable on glossy and 3D floors.

I remember how a few years ago, having opened the door to my friends’ apartment, I froze in some fear on the threshold: right in front of me, a bottomless crack suddenly opened up, along the edges of which, in scraps of grass, stones were lying…. Only after a couple of minutes did I realize that there was a skillfully executed drawing underfoot: at that time we had still heard little about 3D technologies applied to such a familiar part of our home as the floor. Today, few people can be surprised by self-leveling floors with incredible beauty and amazingly natural three-dimensional patterns. But the most interesting thing is that you can make such extraordinary floors yourself, with your own hands.

What are self-leveling floors?

Very often self-leveling floors are confused with screed. And these are completely different types of floor treatment. A screed is a cement base; it is the leveling of the base, bringing it to a perfectly even state, used for final interior finishing. But such a coating is not finishing, it is preparatory stage before, laminate or linoleum. The basis of such floor screeds is cement mixture

. On top of such a screed, a thin self-leveling layer of fluid mortar is usually also applied. The fluidity of the mixture allows it to be most successfully distributed over the surface. It is this fluidity of the mixture that makes it possible to call such a coating a liquid floor. Another thing is self-leveling floors, which are based on a mixture of polymers. These can be epoxies, polyurethane and so on.

Thanks to these mixtures, you can no longer lay floors, suffering with seams and joints, but pour them.

Sometimes such floors are called “liquid linoleum,” but I think this name does not fully reflect all the advantages, all the excellent qualities of self-leveling floors. Why is this floor better than, say, linoleum? There are no seams, absolutely smooth coating. And one of the main advantages is wear resistance. In addition, the widest range of colors of this coating is pleasing.

• From a chemical point of view, polymer floors can be divided into several categories:
• Methyl methacrylate - made from methyl methacrylic resins
• Epoxy - with the addition of epoxy resins
• Cement-acrylic - the composition of this coating includes the so-called liquid component and dry building mixtures

Polyurethane - contains polyurethane According to experts, methyl methacrylate, epoxy and cement-acrylic self-leveling floors are suitable for production premises

, and polyurethane self-leveling floors are used for finishing residential premises.

Surprisingly attractive, bright, varied in design and resistant to abrasion and damage - the coating has a lifespan of as much as 40 years! Not only is the coating beautiful, it is also warm! Such beauty as in the photographs, you want to immediately take it and make it yourself at home. And, as it turns out, this is a completely doable task. Let's get started?

Preparatory work

The base for self-leveling floors can be cement screed, ceramic tiles, and even wooden floorboards. The main and basic condition: any of the surfaces must be absolutely clean, smooth and even. We check the horizontal lines of the base using a regular level in all directions. We remove any possible traces of glue, paint, oils - all this can interfere with good adhesion of the base to the self-leveling floor in the future. We remove all irregularities and rub in depressions.

If the base is wooden, you will have to tinker a little longer:

• Using a spatula, scraper or grinder remove all old paint and varnish.
• Checking the humidity wooden covering: it should not be higher than 10%
• We find all the existing cracks, open them, and go over them with coarse sandpaper.
• We carefully remove the garbage, it is best to do this with a vacuum cleaner
• Fill the cracks with construction mixture

To prepare the concrete surface, we will do the following:

• If concrete covering was done recently, then work on laying the self-leveling floor can begin no earlier than in a month
• With the old one concrete base existing coating needs to be removed
• Check for moisture
• Remove stains of oil, glue, mastic and other substances
• Repair cracks and chips using a special mortar with resin content
• Level the surface using a sander

Advice: it is best to make a solid screed under self-leveling floors using a viscous putty mixture.

You can prime the surface using a brush or roller, depending on your preference. The primer must be applied until we see that the solution stops being absorbed. Before applying each new layer, you must wait until the previous one has completely dried. After applying the last layer, you must wait at least a day until the primer dries completely.

And now a day has passed, the prepared surface pleases the eye with a slight gloss and does not absorb moisture. You can move on to the next stage: pouring the self-leveling floor.

Preparing the fill and tools

So, the base is ready, you can start preparing the main material. To do this we must have at hand:

• Low speed drill with special stirrer
• Clean buckets (20 l)
• Spatula for spreading material in corners, under radiators and in other hard-to-reach places
• Adjustable notched spatula
• Squeegee with pins on retractable handle
• Needle aeration rollers to remove surface bubbles

Let's prepare the mixture itself. In general, there is nothing complicated in this procedure. If the mixture is dry, then, observing the required proportions, you need to dilute the components in water. To do this, pour the required amount of water into a clean bucket, then gradually add the dry mixture, constantly and thoroughly stirring with a mixer-drill until the mass becomes smooth and homogeneous. Then we pause for 3-5 minutes so that the solution “ripens” and mix again. The prepared solution must be used within 30 minutes.

In order for the mixture for self-leveling floor to turn out to be of high quality, the dry component must be poured into water, and not vice versa. There should be exactly as much water as written in the instructions; excess liquid will not allow the coating to dry well and the floor will not be of good quality.

If the work uses ready-made liquid mixtures, then the sequence of actions is slightly different. We open the large and small buckets. In a large bucket - semi-finished paste (component A), in a small bucket - hardener (component B). Within 2-3 minutes, you need to thoroughly mix the mixture in each bucket separately, checking whether the sediment is mixed at the bottom. Now pour the stirred mixture from a large bucket into a clean container, making sure that there is no sediment left in the bucket itself. Then, without turning off the drill, we begin to pour in the equally thoroughly mixed component B and stir the mixture for 2-3 minutes.

Filling the floor

Filling the floor with your own hands is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. It is important to follow several important conditions. First of all – temperature conditions. Usually the packages indicate exactly what temperature should be in the room where the work takes place. On average - from 18 to 25 degrees Celsius. Drafts and direct Sun rays. It’s better to work with an assistant - the two of you can make the pouring process continuous: one spreads, the other pours.

Having installed the guide beacons, we begin to pour the solution from the far wall opposite front door. The work must be continuous; the evenness of the coating in height depends on this. We begin to pour the solution in strips parallel to the wall. You need to cover no more than 2 square meters at a time. We stretch the layer with a wide spatula, making movements from the wall towards ourselves, level it with a squeegee with a movable bar - use the bar to determine the thickness of the coating. The recommended thickness ranges from 1.5 mm to 5 mm. After this, we go over the surface with a needle roller to get rid of possible bubbles. Immediately pour the next strip and continue until we fill the entire area.

It is advisable to cover the resulting surface with foil or polyethylene for better hardening, and at the same time to prevent dust or dirt from getting on it. It usually takes 6 to 10 hours for the floor to harden. During this time, drafts or temperature changes should not be allowed.

If we consider the work completed at this point, we will simply cover the resulting floor with a special decorative layer of varnish, which will add greater shine and increase the durability of the coating. But this must be done no later than after 2 days, and better – after 24 hours. Otherwise, the adhesion of the layers will not be of high quality. If we are not aiming for 3D self-leveling floors, then we can simply apply special chips to the base layer for beauty. Very interesting option: coins are laid beautifully on the base layer and filled with transparent protective varnish on top

The thickness of the decorative layer should be approximately 5 mm; it is applied using the same technology as the base layer. On a base that has not yet been strengthened, in order not to cause damage to it, it is better to move around in special slippers with spikes. In a day, the floor is ready. Complete hardening occurs after 3-5 days. After this it will be possible if you have “warm floors”

The pinnacle of craftsmanship: we make 3D self-leveling floors ourselves

We now already know how to make a self-leveling floor. But for some, this may not seem enough and they will want to create the illusion of a three-dimensional image or simply a beautiful design on this excellent coating. Then let’s figure out what is the difference between a simple self-leveling floor and a self-leveling floor with a 3D image? In the picture below you can see that another additional layer is added to 3D - decorative.

Possible in special program create the desired design and, using an airbrush, brushes and special paints, apply it directly to the base surface. You can make such a design differently: the design is applied to banner fabric or vinyl film in special workshops.

It is necessary to take into account that the size of the ordered canvas must be several bigger size than the floor itself, onto which we will then paste the drawing.

Having prepared such an image, we return to the floor. It must be primed with a finishing transparent polymer layer (see instructions for use on the packaging). Apply it with a roller or flat brush and level it out. Leave for some time - up to a day - so that the primer sets and polymerizes. Then carefully glue the vinyl film with a self-adhesive layer onto the prepared surface. At the same time, you need to constantly smooth it, press it so that there are no voids or bubbles. If our design is applied to banner fabric, then we will have to use glue, the role of which will again be played by the finishing polymer, applied in a thin layer. We leave our floors alone for one more day.

And now we just have to apply finishing coat and varnish. The thickness of the finishing coating varies from 3 to 6 mm. Again, mix the base and hardener in a bucket, using a drill with an attachment, pour the mixture onto the drawing and repeat almost all the procedures that were carried out when pouring the base layer, evenly distributing it over the surface with a squeegee with a rubber insert, scraper or roller, then rolling it with a needle roller. We will continue rolling until we feel that the layer begins to thicken. Do not forget that you can only move on the applied coating in flip-flops with high spikes. Covering the floor again plastic film or foil so that it “grabs” more firmly and we leave our work for a day, or even two.

It is advisable to apply a protective varnish 2-3 mm thick after the finishing layer has dried. This will allow the coating to retain its beauty longer.

OK it's all over Now. Two days later the floors are ready. You can please yourself, your family and surprise your guests.

The goal of developing self-leveling floors was to reduce the labor costs and installation time associated with outdated leveling and finishing schemes. A wide range of compositions are excellent in solving both problems, allowing in a short time to create a durable, perfectly smooth, monolithic surface, pleasing with tightness and the absence of seams. Technological priorities are justifiably added to the list of operational advantages, thanks to which a home craftsman who does not have a construction specialty on his track record can fill the self-leveling floor with his own hands, subject to scrupulous observance of the rules.

Specific features of self-leveling floors

To the family of self-leveling floors, popularly called self-leveling mortars, we, with some degree of misconception, include:

• and new plastic levelers, which are used to perform rough screeding. The thickness of the layer they create varies depending on the formula and the manufacturer’s promises from 1 cm to 30 cm, which is rarely in demand due to its high cost;
• and finishing compounds used for thin-layer final leveling. Their thickness ranges from a couple of mm to 2.5 cm.

Despite the fact that they work predominantly in a well-coordinated tandem, are produced by the same manufacturers, and have a similar basis, this different materials, both by purpose and by installation methods. Levelers different from the old ones cement-sand mortars optimized spreadability and plasticity, applied to the floor in the usual way with leveling along the beacons. They do not have the ability to independently form a flat plane under the influence of gravity.

In terms of thermal conductivity, progressive and outdated leveling materials differ slightly. Therefore, in order to increase the thermal insulation qualities of the floor, they are laid over the same insulation materials. And they are also used as a heat-conducting element in “” systems, if the manufacturer has indicated this opportunity in the labeling.

Note. The “underground” water heating system is filled with leveling agent layer by layer, in at least two stages. The pipes are pre-filled with liquid at room temperature.

Secrets of using finishing mixtures

Thin-layer final fill mixtures can be applied over virtually any substrate. You just need to select products in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions regarding compatibility. The priority is still cement and polymer bases. Leveling proudly appears among the functions of finishing compositions, but since they are mainly filled with a layer of up to 5 mm, it is advisable to exclude gross flaws in the “relief”. Even if the bumps and depressions can be smoothed out with a leveling mass, there is a strong argument in favor of first eliminating the defects. Self-leveling floors of different thicknesses will harden unevenly, and strength indicators will vary significantly.

If previously the colorful range of finishing self-leveling compounds was dominated by dull gray and cream tones, now home craftsmen figuring out how to make a self-leveling floor can actively fantasize about their future decor. The result can be a single-color coating with the color specified by the manufacturer or covered with an epoxy transparent layer on top.

Why is composition information needed?

Regardless of the basic or final purpose, the mixtures include a similar set of components, these are:

• binders, such as good old cement, which gives the floor a gray color, gypsum, which attracts with a pleasant beige palette, or compositions of the mentioned materials, including polymer components;
• fillers– traditional sand or limestone chips, the fractional size of which in basic leveling agents reaches 1.2 mm, and in leveling compositions averages 0.5 mm;
• modifying additives, introduced into the formula of floors to improve spreadability, to increase ductility, improve important property– adhesion.

The binding components of foreign mixtures are polymers, due to which the characteristics are improved along with a parallel increase in prices.

The formulas of dry mixtures also include dyes that determine the color of the future floor or base background for applying stencils, hand painting, banner images, etc. To increase the bonds between the hardening components of the self-leveling floor, microfibers are included in a number of self-leveling mixtures. Their chaotic direction firmly connects the ingredients in all possible directions, eliminating the possibility of cracks.

The main component that influences the choice of a mixture suitable for arrangement is its base. Owners who want to install a self-leveling floor with their own hands need to deal with this issue before purchasing the material:

• dry compositions with cement as a binder are suitable for pouring floors in kitchens, showers, bathrooms, separate bathrooms, i.e. in rooms that require regular wet hygienic care and in rooms with characteristic high humidity;
• mixtures with gypsum as a base are applied to the subfloor in “dry” rooms.

To install heated floors, you will need a leveling mass with increased elasticity, capable of expanding and contracting without forming a network of cracks. If you want to complete finishing at an extremely high pace, you need to pay attention to fast-hardening products. There are also universal dry materials suitable for rough and final leveling; you can buy a mixture labeled “extra strong” for laying coatings without first strengthening the base. Information about specific properties is available on the packaging.

About various ways pouring polyurethane floors and useful design tips you can read in the material on our website: .

Options for installing self-leveling floors

The layout of the floor using self-leveling solutions depends on the planned thickness of the fill, on the degree of destruction and on the material from which the base is made:

• Thin finishing layer up to 0.5 mm, a fresh screed is poured, the surface of which complies with technical regulations. Thin layer liquid linoleum must adhere firmly to the base. To increase adhesion, the rough base is coated with primer. Often, to improve adhesion, the underlying cement floor is pre-treated with a coarse abrasive or scraper, and then coated with a primer.
• Self-leveling floor, cut off from the base by a separating layer, arrange over a wooden base and over any type of screed with a layer of 1.0-2.0 cm. To form a separating layer between the wooden floor and the fill, oiled paper is laid with an overlap. The boundary between the screed and the self-leveling floor is created by treating the surface with waterproofing impregnation. In this case, the poured layer does not adhere to the surface rough foundation. Thanks to the separator, the eternal movements of wood will not cause damage to the floor, and the cement screed will not draw out moisture, creating unwanted cavities and sinks in the body of the fill. By the way, this principle is used to create 3D floors with a volumetric effect, only the separator is a banner with a design, a sticker or an original image made with acrylic paint.
• Floating type self-leveling floors suitable for subsequent installation of laminate, linoleum, parquet flooring - i.e. coatings that tend to change in a linear direction with temperature fluctuations and unstable humidity levels. The reason for preferring a floating floor may also be a thickness of 2.5 cm or more, which does not allow self-leveling floor harden without defects. The separating layer is created from polyethylene, rolled waterproofing or parchment, laid in strips with an 8-10 cm overlap. It is necessary to lay the divider with 10-15 cm allowances on the walls. The floating layer is cut off from the walls with a damper tape used to ensure floor movement and for sound insulation. The separator and damping material, which rises above the floor plane, is cut off before installing the baseboard and the seam is covered with it.

These are only the basic schemes for constructing self-leveling floors, which, if necessary, require modification and modernization taking into account specific conditions. In reality, there are many more options, but the principles are general.

Rules for pouring self-leveling mortars

You can pour the sealed leveling mixture onto the floor in rooms with equipped window and door openings. There should be no drafts, ventilation using natural and supply ventilation you need to forget while the floor is hardening. The solution, without external coercion, needs to lose moisture during the ripening process. The temperature during this period should be stable without readings below 5º C and without rises above 20º C. Priority humidity is 60%.

We will assume that the leveling and climb to the planned altitude have already been completed, i.e. We have already created the base layer or we use an existing tiled, cement or plank floor as it. Next, we find out how to make self-leveling floors with our own hands and say the magic word “so.”

Preparing the surface for the upcoming treatment:

• We repair a concrete or cement subfloor, widen the cracks to the width of a centimeter and fill them with a repair compound, cement-sand or a mixture intended for future filling. We cut off noticeable raised bulges with a puncher and remove unreliable segments. The cavities and small depressions remaining after removal are filled with mortar and leveled flush with the plane of the rough base.
• We check the floor tiles for strength of fixation. We treat unreliable elements like concrete hills. Fill the seams and recesses with mortar.
• We repair wooden floors according to the rules for their restoration. We replace questionable elements, renew fasteners, foam the cracks, fill them with wood glue with sawdust or sealant.

We remove oil paint, grease stains, and residual detergents using solvents, then carefully remove dust and dirt from the floor with a damp cloth and a vacuum cleaner.

Depending on the chosen scheme for pouring the leveling mixture, we prime or cover the insulation layer. We place a damper tape around the perimeter if a floating floor is to be constructed.

Filling process step by step

The solution must be mixed strictly following the instructions of the material manufacturer. Violations of proportions and deviations from instructions, entailing a deterioration in technological qualities and operational characteristics, are not allowed.

Important. Polymerization of the mixture for manual pouring occurs after 35-40 minutes. after cooking. Accurate data on the life of the solution must be indicated on the packaging.

Due to the short period of time when the solution is suitable for pouring, attempts to install a self-leveling floor without an assistant must be nipped in the bud. It is better to enlist two pairs of friendly hands and initially distribute responsibilities. One prepares the mass, the second pours it, the third distributes it with a spatula or a long-handled iron.

All that remains is to list the actions, following the sequence:

• Install in doorway limiter - a lath, a piece of drywall or profile. We will do the same if it is not possible to fill in one step in too large room or it is planned to install combined floors.
• Pour the mass prepared according to all the rules into strips no more than 50 cm wide. The first strip runs along the wall located opposite the entrance.
• Avoiding any breaks, fill in the second strip, at the same time evenly distributing the solution with a spatula or iron. And we continue like this until the end of the work.
• We treat the filled layer with an aeration roller, due to which the self-leveling floor will be free of air bubbles. During processing, we move along the surface in paint shoes - shoes with support spikes on the sole.
• We cover the filling with polyethylene and wait the time required according to the instructions for the self-leveling mass to mature.

If the surface needs to be given anti-slip properties, the poured floor is sprinkled with washed sand or not too zealous, expelling air from the mixture with an aeration roller. The “craters” left from the bursting bubbles will interfere with sliding.

It’s not difficult to understand the technology of applying self-leveling flooring, and it’s also easy to do it with skill. Just find out everything important points you need to take into account the technological specifics in advance and plan your actions correctly. Knowing the nuances of pouring will not harm those who decide to entrust it to workers.

A self-leveling floor can be called a polymer coating for finishing a floor, which has a uniform structure without seams. It is performed on various reasons. For example, on a floor made of wood or concrete, ceramic tiles, cement-sand screed. Making a self-leveling floor with your own hands is not difficult. To do this, you need to follow the instructions exactly and study the types and features of this coating.

Self-leveling floors are divided into:

• Cement-acrylic;
• Epoxy-urethane;
• Methyl methacrylate;

Each type of self-leveling floor has its own characteristics that allow you to use this coating V various types premises. Polyurethane flooring is used in residential areas. It is the warmest and has good external characteristics. It is characterized by a beautiful shine, and the choice of different colors allows you to choose the topcoat to suit any interior.

When installed, the self-leveling floor looks like a mixture that needs to be distributed over the surface of the base. There are also - they are distributed by gender independently.

The thickness of the mixture being poured should be 1.5-2 mm. If this indicator increases, it becomes uneconomical, and if the thickness is reduced, the quality of the coating deteriorates.

Preparing the base

Do-it-yourself self-leveling floors begin with preparing the base of the floor. The difference in preparatory work depends on the type of foundation.

Wooden base

Must be completed next steps work to prepare wooden base gender:

1. Dismantle the old skirting boards and thoroughly clean the surface of paint and varnish. On at this stage you can use tools: a wire brush, a spatula or a grinder;
2. By using sandpaper clean the surface - this will ensure the greatest adhesion of the floor to the mixture;
3. Remove all dirt, dust and debris;
4. Degrease the surface using cleaning powder;
5. Seal all cracks using mortar.

In preparation wooden base, it should be taken into account that its humidity should be no more than 10%.

Concrete base

Before preparing the concrete surface, you need to check its moisture level. It should be no more than 4%. If a new base was laid, then self-leveling floors can be installed on it only after 28 days. If the concrete surface is old, perform the following preparatory work:

1. Dismantle the previous coating;
2. Remove any remaining paint, glue, mastic, etc.;
3. Clean the surface from dirt;
4. Fill existing cracks, chips and cracks. Can be used to repair minor damage glue solution, and for more significant ones - construction with the addition of resin;
5. Remove small irregularities using a grinding machine;
6. Using a leveling rod (2 m), check the horizontal position.

The following video will be very useful because... will show all the stages of preparing the base and pouring the self-leveling floor clearly:

It is recommended to check the strength before carrying out work. concrete base for compression. For this you need a Schmidt hammer and a Dean type device. The indicator must be at least 20 MPa, and the test for peeling strength must correspond to at least 1.5 MPa.

Ceramic tile

To prepare a floor covered ceramic tiles, you need to do the following:

1. Check all tiles for fastening strength;
2. Remove poorly fixed tiles and fill voids;
3. Remove all debris and dirt from the surface of the tiles;
4. Using a solvent, it is necessary to degrease the surface of the tiles.

Floor priming

Before making a self-leveling floor with your own hands, you must also prime the surface, which will ensure improved adhesion and the best distribution of the mixture. If the subfloor has a dry and porous surface, it is best to apply priming in several stages. This must be done until all the pores are filled. To provide best result, in this case, high viscosity primers can be used.

• For work, use a roller or a wide brush;
• Apply each subsequent layer of primer only after the previous one has completely dried;
• After priming, wait a day;
• Needs to be supported constant temperature indoors when working - this will help avoid the formation of air bubbles.

Step-by-step instruction on how to install a self-leveling floor with your own hands contains clear recommendations about preparing the solution. To prepare a solution of the required consistency yourself, you need to follow the technology:

1. Pour water into the prepared container;
2. Then pour the dry mixture into it;
3. Mix the solution thoroughly for 10-15 minutes. A drill with a special attachment or a construction mixer are suitable for this.

The proportions of water and dry mixture can be found in the instructions for preparation and use supplied by the manufacturer.

To check the correctness of the proportions, you need to place a plastic ring 5 cm in diameter and the same height (from scrap materials) on a flat surface, for example glass. You need to pour the solution into it. After which the ring will rise, and the solution itself will begin to spread. It is necessary to measure the diameter of the spreading solution. It should not exceed more than 18 cm and be at least 16 cm. If the figure is less, then you need to add a little water, but if it is more, then increase the consumption of the dry mixture.

It is very important to comply correct proportions when independently preparing a mixture for self-leveling flooring. If there is an excess of water, the self-leveling floor will be less durable, and if there is too little, the mixture will be poorly distributed.

Installation stages of self-leveling floor

To work you will need tools and materials:

1. Raquel;
2. Wide spatula;
3. Polyethylene film;
4. Solvent.

You should start pouring from the wall that is located as far as possible from the entrance to the room.

Instructions for self-installation self-leveling floor contains the following stages of work:

• Pour the solution onto the base of the floor and spread. To do this, use a spatula;
• Pour the next portion of the mixture next to the previous one and distribute it in the same way;
• Using a squeegee, adjust the required thickness of the fill;
• Each poured portion must be smoothed, leveled and rolled until the entire base of the floor is filled;
• After completing the work, cover the surface with polyethylene film to prevent contamination.

When carrying out work, the room temperature must be maintained within 15-25 degrees Celsius. Air humidity – no more than 80%. This will ensure an excellent levelness of the floor and will help avoid the accumulation of condensation on its surface.

It must be taken into account that the prepared solution must be poured within 40 minutes. After this time, it loses its fluidity properties. The interval between pours should be no more than 10 minutes to avoid unevenness and differences in the self-leveling floor.

To give the most attractive appearance, you can coat the self-leveling floor with varnish. Specialized technologies also make it possible to perform or using decorative ornaments.

Conclusion

We can conclude that these instructions on how to properly make a self-leveling floor yourself will help you achieve the desired result. All stages of the work are simple, which allows you to make a self-leveling floor yourself at home, without the involvement of specialists.

However, it’s still worth getting an assistant to quickly prepare the mixture and distribute it, so that it doesn’t turn out like in the next video. The floor dried out before the next portion was prepared and distributed over the surface; as a result, the base was not ideal, see:

And finally, a couple of useful videos from professionals:

Leave comments on the article and share your experience in pouring self-leveling floors!