Growing citrus fruits at home. Citrus fruits at home - advice from experienced gardeners Citrus tree home care

Citrus fruits belong to the rue family. Lemon, orange, tangerine, grapefruit, kinkan and other citrus fruits are grown at home. Although it must be said right away that attempts to grow a fruiting citrus tree at home often break off when evergreen trees that have grown more than a meter in height do not bear fruit. Although with an annual cold wintering (+ 5-8 ° C), citrus fruits can bloom and bear fruit in 2-3 years (rooted cuttings).

If you decide to grow citrus fruits from seeds for their fruits, then even if you achieve fruiting, the taste of the fruits will most likely disappoint you, as it will be too sour and bitter. It is easier to buy an already fruiting citrus tree, in this case you will not have to worry about the vaccination and wait for years for it to bear fruit.

In general, at home, trees obtained from grafted or rooted cuttings will most likely bear fruit, and wildfishes grown from a stone do not bloom for a very long time - tens of years, but in their natural habitat, somewhere in the vastness of Spain, trees begin to bear fruit at the age of 6 -7 years. For some, it will be a pleasure to grow a tree from a stone, and it does not matter whether it bears fruit or not. Anyway, to citrus developed well, it is important to know the conditions in which it needs, and something about the formation of the crown.

Fertilizing citrus fruits

In the first half of summer, fertilizing is used. This increases the sugar content of the fruit and reduces the bitter taste that is characteristic of citrus fruits when room culture... The plant needs more fertilization, the older it is and the longer it is in the same container. Fertilizers are applied with water for irrigation, but only healthy, not weakened plants can be fed. With additional artificial lighting, citrus fruits in winter also need to be fertilized, but not more often than once a month.

If citrus fruits were transplanted into fresh soil in spring, then feeding after 1-1.5 months can be started with fertilizers for flowering plants... If the plants were not transplanted, then you need to start feeding with the introduction of organic matter: 2-3 times with an interval of two weeks, it can be an extract from a dry horse manure, well-laid humus, ready-made vermicompost from the store. It is very important not to overfeed citrus fruits with organic matter and check the acidity of the soil. After two fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, you can feed with complex fertilizers for indoor flowering (for example, Fertika Lux).

by the way

Sometimes on sale you can see citrus fruits with a shank - a small twig with a couple of leaves, mainly Chinese tangerines, passed off as Abkhaz ones. They taste good, but most importantly, if the branches are not frozen and did not have time to dry, you can try to carefully separate and graft them.

by the way

Light shading of citrus fruits from the scorching rays of the sun promotes healthy, dark green foliage. When placed in direct sunlight, the leaves of plants acquire a pale green color, and burns may appear after a gloomy winter in spring. On the contrary, in dark room citrus fruits gradually shed their leaves, and new leaves, if they appear, are small and deformed.

Therefore, it is recommended to keep plants in summer on a window facing north-west or southeast (these windows are less sunny, but also less hot), and in winter to south and south-west, so throughout the year there will be uniform illumination for the plant. But, of course, such rearrangements are possible in apartments and houses, where the windows are on opposite sides.

You can also push plants back into the room in summer, and in winter, on the contrary, move plants as close as possible to the window.

The fruits of orange and lemon are different when there is a lack of light. high acidity... However, in summer, plants should be shaded from the sun in the afternoon.

Citrus pests

Scabbards: this pest is not difficult to detect, scabbards are clearly visible on citrus fruits, but they bring significant harm - spreading throughout the tree, their brown shields stick around the stems, petioles, leaves. If you run your fingernail over the flap, a damp spot remains. In a microscope, these pests are similar in shape, excuse the comparison, to fascist helmets, shaggy from the inside, and just as nasty: they suck out cell sap, the leaves lose their color, dry and fall off.

Control measures: if your citrus tree is small, it is better to take it to the bathroom and wash the stems and leaves with a soapy sponge. If a large tree is in a bucket or tub, wipe all accessible areas with a cotton pad moistened with alcohol.

Now we need the Aktara insecticide (or confidor), it is effective against any worms, including scale insects. It is necessary to dilute the drug according to the instructions and pour a lemon or orange under the root, and then spray thoroughly over the leaves. Repeat the treatment a week later.

Other insecticides are also produced against scale insects and other insect pests: actellik, fitoverm, karbofos, decis and others. But they are more smelly, toxic and highly undesirable to use them at home.

Spider mites are one of the nastiest and most common pests on citrus fruits. Ticks are dangerous because:

multiply and develop rapidly
it is extremely difficult to wash them off - they hide in the axils of the leaves, in the buds, in the upper layers of the soil
ordinary insecticides are not effective against them, but only special preparations - acaricides
after two treatments, resistance is formed in ticks - the new generation is more resistant to the active substance of the drug.

Signs of ticks on citrus fruits

yellowish or whitish spots on the leaves without clear boundaries
streaks and dots are gray or silvery, especially visible on young leaves
deformed flower petals, young leaves, shriveled buds
on back side leaves, small grains, crumbs, husks - the pests themselves and skins from molting
at high magnification (magnifying glass, microscope), the thinnest cobweb is visible.

Therefore, if you have ticks at least once, you will have to observe and observe and periodically, at least once a month, carefully examine the entire plant.

Control measures. First, wash off or wipe off the pests by hand. To do this, you will either have to take the pot to the bathroom or shower, put the pot on its side so that the leaves are in weight, and water with a powerful pressure of a hot shower; or wash each leaf by hand - take it and wipe it on both sides.

The problem is that there are no systemic drugs against ticks - so that you water it - and the ticks die. Only intestinal contact: sprayed, took out a tick. Where the solution does not get, the mites will survive and continue to multiply.

Against ticks, it is worth trying remedies such as Apallo, Vermitek, Oberon, etc.

More about pests indoor plants read in the section "pests"

Citrus indoor plants are not only a wonderful home decoration, but also useful plants, the fruits of which are rich in vitamins and excellent taste. Growing these southern treats in the home, however, requires special conditions that differ for each type of fruit. In this article, we will look at how to grow citrus fruits in a pot in a city apartment.

Growing citrus fruits at home involves adhering to the basic rules of caring for southern crops.

First of all, indoor citrus fruits need a properly selected soil. For the base, you can take the soil "flower" or "lemon", diluting it one part at a time with foliage, sand and humus and three parts of turf. In structure, this will be low-acid, lumpy and loose, which will provide free access of oxygen and moisture to the root system of the plant.

It is better to plant the plant in clay pots, which, due to their properties, are excellent conductors of heat. In addition, these pots "breathe", which will allow excess moisture to evaporate without lingering in the soil.

Potted citrus fruits need maintenance optimal level humidity - not less than 65%. Grown in humid air the fruits will turn out juicy and tasty, however, with an excess of moisture, they are threatened with rotting and falling off. Citrus houses should be watered as the soil dries up: in winter this happens once a month, in summer - once every 1-2 weeks. On hot days and during the heating season, the plant needs regular spraying.

In an apartment, most often citrus fruits stand on the windowsill, since it is there that the plant will be provided with sufficient access to light and heat. If there is not enough lighting (for example, on the north or north-west side of the apartment), then it is necessary to provide citruses with additional lighting using ordinary lamps with good heat transfer. The temperature during the entire period of development should not fall below +8 degrees. In winter temperature regime should be maintained in the region of + 12-15 degrees, and with the onset of spring - not lower than +18. Thanks to warm temperatures and high-quality lighting, the plant will begin to release buds, the flowering of which will mark the proximity of fruiting.

Reproduction of citrus fruits is carried out at the end of summer by separating the growing shoot from the main cutting. Such a shoot is carefully trimmed and cleaned from the bark below, after which it is lowered into a pre-prepared pot with nutrient soil, which is fertilized with moss, manure and a small amount of peat. The pot must have holes in the bottom, which are necessary for the outflow of excess water.

You can propagate by seeds and grafting, but for this it is better to familiarize yourself with the varietal characteristics of the plant, since even fertile trees can become inedible during propagation.

Pruning citrus fruits is essential not only to maintain the health of the plant, but also to form a beautiful round shape that can be created after the second year of the plant's life. If the aesthetic side requires pruning too long shoots, then the vegetative side requires too thick ones. Shoots that grow inside the crown and hinder the free development of buds due to their large numbers should also be removed. Pruning is done in the spring, all cuts are made at an angle.

If you are interested in how to grow a citrus tree on your own, then there are two options - cuttings or from a stone at home. The apartment is ideal for this, since it is possible to create conditions in it that are as close as possible to those of a greenhouse. In the best way growing from cuttings is recognized, since this method will provide you with fruits in the coming years, while plants obtained from seeds begin to bear fruit, at best, no earlier than 10 years later.

Lemon care is simple: regular watering, bait, crown pruning. The only thing that can be difficult is the need to replant annually lemon Tree into a larger pot.

Indoor tangerines

Mandarin, like lemon, requires regular transplanting in the spring. In addition, it is more thermophilic and picky about the level of humidity. Homemade tangerine it is better not to keep at temperatures below +20 degrees, otherwise the plant will quickly die. However, a clear advantage of the species is its faster term of entry into fruiting - within 5–6 years, the development of fruits is possible.

Mandarin, in addition to the requirements for lighting and moisture, also needs regular feeding and pest treatment. Unfortunately, these plants are very susceptible to aphids, spider mites and mealybugs. Also, the problem of mandarin is the complexity of the flowering process, which often needs stimulation.

Orange

Calamondin is best grown from cuttings or store-bought annuals. Such a tree will begin to bear fruit as early as 2-3 years.

Despite the resistance to cold, optimal temperature cultivation in the summer are 21-25 degrees with a humidity of 70%, and in winter - 10-16 degrees with a humidity of 50%. This regime will provide the plant with healthy and abundant fruiting.

Grapefruit

Homemade grapefruit can be obtained from Duncan and Marsh varieties. This variety of citrus fruits resembles a lemon in terms of keeping conditions. However, the grapefruit needs more abundant and frequent watering and the maximum amount of sunlight.

Citron

Citron is a plant with very large yellow fruits (from 15 cm in length) and thick skin. For home cultivation the varieties Pavlovsky, Buddha's Hand and Mir are suitable. It should be remembered that the size of the fruit needs tall tree(1.5 m), which should provide plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures throughout the year.

Video "Growing citrus at home"

From this video you will learn how to grow and care for lemon, tangerine, lime at home.

All citrus fruits are light-loving plants. Orange, tangerine and grapefruit houseplants prefer southern windows. Lemon can tolerate a little shading, and southeast facing windows are most suitable for it.

For citrus fruits, you need to provide long daylight hours daily. They need 12 hours of light. The local climate fully satisfies the need for lighting only during the spring-summer period.

The citrus family does not tolerate even the slightest frost.
These plants tend to grow unevenly. This feature can be clearly traced during the active and passive periods. First, the plant grows - new shoots and leaves are formed in it. And with the onset of autumn, the plant stops growing, and its wood begins to ripen. And only after that, in the spring, new growth of shoots is activated again.

Most citrus plants are capable of blooming and producing fruit ovaries several times a year. A grafted plant, or one grown from a rooted cuttings, can bloom pretty soon. In nature, seedlings bloom around the fifth year, and some varieties can wait up to 15 years. But in indoor conditions seedlings bloom very rarely.

For fertilization of citrus flowers, which can be of both sexes, the favorable temperature is + 18C, and the humidity is 70%. Some citrus varieties can be self-pollinated. But to be sure, you need to help the plants using a soft brush. Not all ovaries remain on the plant after flowering. Some of them fall off.

Citrus diseases

Growing citrus crops in our climate it is not easy, but pleasant. Planting and transplanting citrus plants, which will be discussed in this article, are also not without nuances.

The best utensils for growing citrus fruits indoors are clay pots, wooden boxes, wooden barrels. The dishes must be well drained so that water does not stagnate in it. The best, of course, are pottery pots, which, in addition to the drainage hole at the bottom, have porous walls. Across drain hole excess water flows down with excessive watering, and the soil is well ventilated through the pores.

Water pots and plastic pots are considered inferior because there are no pores in their walls. Wooden barrels (boxes) have the disadvantage that they can quickly rot, but when growing large plants you cannot do without them. Inexperienced citrus growers plant plants in buckets, glassware, on the days of which there are no holes and no air passes through the walls. In such dishes, very often, especially with excessive soil moisture, the plant suffocates and gets wet.

Growing citrus fruits indoors, they need to be transplanted into other dishes from time to time. bigger size... The dishes should be of such a size that the root system of the plant is freely placed in it. Opinion not experienced gardeners that a small plant is planted in a pot big size will enter fruiting faster - false, the plant will grow violently (fatten), and the entry into fruiting will be delayed.

In addition, in a large bowl, the underdeveloped root system does not master (does not penetrate) the entire soil, as a result of which the irrigation water is not completely used by the plant and stagnates, which leads to acidification of the soil. This is often seen when the ground is heavy and poorly ventilated. Young roots, having penetrated over time to a layer of such soil, become ill, so the plant stops growing, the leaves turn yellow and gradually crumble. Therefore, if the soil is not urgently replaced, the plant may die.

Practical experience of specialists shows that young vigorous plants should be transplanted into larger dishes annually, and plants that have already entered fruiting once every 2-3 years, perennial fruiting plants - once every 5-6 years.

In order to make it easier and more convenient to transplant plants, pots, boxes and even barrels are made cone-shaped (narrower from below than at the top). Annual plants it is best to grow in pots with a diameter at the top of 20-25 cm, 2-3-year-olds -25-30 cm, 4-year-olds - 30-35 cm, and 6-10-year-old plants are grown in pots with a diameter of 35-40 cm or in barrels with a diameter of 40-45 cm.

A guideline that indicates that the plant needs to be transplanted from a smaller dish to a larger one is the appearance of the tips of the roots in the hole in the bottom of the pot.

The best potting soil mixtures for citrus fruits

When growing citrus crops indoors, it is very great importance has soil. It must contain a sufficient amount nutrients, be of light texture, water and air permeable, have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction (pH 6.5).

Heavy in texture clay soil it compresses strongly, dries up, cracks and tears the roots of the plant, and due to excessive moisture of such soil, the roots suffocate and get wet. Too heavy soil in pots is the main cause of homoz disease.

Soils that contain a lot of lime are also unsuitable: root poisoning occurs. Plants do not develop well when the soil is very acidic (peaty, podzolic). The roots of citrus plants absolutely cannot withstand peat and saline soils. Unsuitable and too light texture of the soil. They let water through very quickly and do not retain nutrients, so the plants in them starve.

Under natural conditions, it is impossible to find such a soil that would fully meet the requirements of citrus crops when grown in limited utensils. Therefore, for growing citrus fruits in room conditions, a soil mixture is prepared from sod land, deciduous soil, rotted manure and river sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 2: 1. In such a soil mixture, plants for regular watering and top dressing grows well and bear fruit. In order to properly prepare the soil mixture, it is necessary to know the characteristics of its constituent components.

Sod land Is the most important component nutritious soil mixture (garden soil). It is prepared by laying cut layers of sod for decomposition into compost. It is best harvested where perennial legumes or meadow grasses grew, especially where there was grass.

When cutting the sod, the thickness of its layer should be no more than 10-15 cm. During the compilation of the pile, the layer is laid with the grass down. After decay, such soil will be rich in organic matter and have a neutral reaction. After 6-8 months after repeated shoveling, the earth is sown through a sieve and used for its intended purpose.

Deciduous land- it is obtained from rotting collected in heaps of leaves woody plants... In order for the leaves to rot well and completely mineralize, they are kept in piles, shoveled several times, avoiding overdrying. The nutritional properties of deciduous soil depend on what species the leaves are harvested from and how long such land is preserved. The best leafy soil is obtained from the decay of beech, linden, maple leaves, the worst is obtained from horse chestnut leaves.

Often in the forest in the early spring period, under the crowns of well-developed trees, a layer of soil 6-8 cm deep is removed along with fallen leaves and all this mass is piled under open air... Over the summer, shovel several times, if necessary, moisturize. In the fall, such land will be ready for use. It is passed through a sieve and then used. Deciduous soil is usually neutral. All types of deciduous soil are considered poor in nutrients.

Humus- this is manure that rotted well. The best is horse humus. Used in small quantities as organic fertilizer.
Sand- component a large number soil mixtures. As a rule, it is used to create tighter soil mixtures. It is recommended to use river sand, because it consists of fractions of various sizes - grains of sand. When compiling soil mixtures, it is better to take the medium and coarse fraction of river sand.

Types of citrus indoor plants

Citron (Citrus medica Citron) - along with two other ancient species, mandarin and pomelo, is the progenitor of modern citrus fruits.

Currently in room culture you can find a very interesting variety "Buddha's Hand". Citron fruits have a lot of zest and very little pulp.

Mandarin, or citrus net, unshiu (Citrus reticulate var. Unshiu) is the earliest species with abundant fruiting. In tub culture it grows up to 1.5 m.

This type of citrus indoor plants has a spherical crown with slightly drooping branches without thorns, dark green oval-elongated leaves; white, highly fragrant flowers are arranged in pairs or small groups in the axils of the leaves. Fruits are medium-sized, pear-shaped, orange or orange-red, with easily peeling skin and juicy, sweetish pulp without seeds.

All types of indoor citrus plants are grown in winter garden or as tub plants. Miniature citrofortunella will feel great on a sunny windowsill.

Fortunella, or kumquat, "golden orange" (Fortunella margarita) - looks like a miniature orange. Fruit elongated shape with a sweetish peel. Variegata has striped green-white or green-yellow leaves

Calamondin, or citrofortunella (Calamondin) - a hybrid of mandarin and fortunella. This type of indoor citrus is an ornamental rather than an edible plant.

It has compact size (up to 1 m in height), glossy dark green oval-pointed leaves and numerous small (up to 4 cm in diameter), round, yellow-orange fruits, bitter in taste and with a large number of seeds.

How to transplant correctly?

It is very important to correctly plant (transplant) a citrus plant. Cook the dishes before planting. The drainage hole in the bottom of the dishes is closed with a convex shard, side up, so that drainage material does not spill through the hole, and excess water flows freely. Then, drainage material is poured onto the bottom of the dishes with a layer of 2-4 cm. Most often, coarse-grained river sand is used for this, you can also gravel, pebbles. A layer of soil mixture is poured over the drainage.

Before planting, the roots of seedlings are carefully examined, if there are damaged or broken roots, they are removed with a sharp pruner or shortened to an intact place. It is advisable to trim the tips of the roots a little, this prevents them from rotting, helps to accelerate the formation of callus and restore growth.

On a thin layer of soil mixture, which is poured into the bottom of the dishes, place the root system of the plant, evenly spreading the roots into different sides, and gradually fall asleep with soil mixture, while shaking the plant to fill the air gaps between the roots. The soil is carefully compacted with the fingers of both hands to the roots and walls of the dish so that the plant is well fixed and there are no air gaps between the roots.

The root collar of the plant should be at the level of the soil surface. The dishes are not completely filled with soil, but 2-3 cm are left to its upper edge so that watering can be carried out.

The planted plants are watered with plenty of water and placed in a warm shaded place from direct sunlight for 2-3 weeks, watered regularly, and the crown is sprayed with water. Such care for the transplanted plants will contribute to their better engraftment and restoration of the growth of the aboveground part.

Distinguish between transplanting and transshipment of plants. When transplanting, the plant is transferred from one place of cultivation to another (from one dish to another) without soil. This work should be done in early spring before the start of sap flow. In the case when, during transplantation, the plant loses a significant part of the roots and the remaining roots cannot fully provide the aerial part with moisture and nutrients, to restore the balance between the aerial part and the root system, it is necessary to prune the plant crown. At the same time, branches are removed that thicken the crown, grow in the middle of the crown, and the remaining branches are shortened by a third of their length.

When transferring a plant from a container of smaller volume to larger plants They are taken out of the cramped dishes and, trying not to disturb the main root layer of the soil (lumps), they are placed in a larger bowl, the soil mixture is poured and gradually compacted, leaving room for irrigation water. At the same time, there is no need to trim the aerial part, since the root is not damaged and is almost not lost. Plant handling can be done at any time of the year.

Watering and spraying citrus plants

Timely and correct watering of citrus plants that are cultivated in indoor conditions has essential to ensure their normal growth, development and regular fruiting.

Citrus moisture is needed to dissolve soil nutrients and transform them into a form accessible to plants, transport these substances from the soil through the root system to the aboveground part.

Citrus fruits especially require a lot of moisture for transpiration (evaporation), which occurs when the organic mass of plants is created. It is known that due to moisture evaporation, plants not only regulate their nutritional and water regime, but also normalize the temperature.

Lack of moisture in the soil leads to the death of delicate active roots, which in turn causes yellowing and shedding of the leaves, and if this continues for several days, then the entire plant dries out.

It should also be remembered that excess moisture in the soil negatively affects the general condition of the grown plants. Often inexperienced amateur citrus growers ask why the leaves on the plant wither and young shoots droop when the soil in the dishes in which, for example, lemon grows, is sufficiently moist and even waterlogged. They do not take into account the fact that for the normal functioning of the root system, any plant (not only citrus) must be provided with both nutrients and moisture, and air for the respiration of the roots.

When the soil is waterlogged, an excessive amount of water displaces air from it and disrupts both the normal respiration of the roots and the course of microbiological processes in the soil, and this, in turn, inhibits the mineralization of nutrients and their transformation into an easily accessible form for plants.

Excessive waterlogging of the soil, especially in winter, can lead to acidification. In this case, the plant should be rearranged in a warm place, so that it evaporates from the waterlogged soil. excess moisture... When it happened that the soil in the dishes was already nitrous and the leaves began to turn yellow, the plant urgently needs to be transplanted and freed from the sour soil. If, during transplantation, it turns out that there are already dead roots, then their dead part is cut out with a sharp pruner to healthy non-dead tissues, and the plants are placed in dishes of a slightly smaller volume and covered with fresh soil mixture.

The aerial part of such a plant is accordingly reduced by pruning in order to restore the correlations between it and the root system, which were disturbed by the loss of some of the roots. The more the roots are cut, the more the branches of the crown should be shortened. Plants transplanted in this way are watered moderately and placed in a place shaded from the sun for engraftment.

The need for watering can be determined by the condition of the soil in the dishes: for sufficient moisture, it has dark color and not compacted, but when the soil dries up, it acquires a gray tint and becomes dense.

There is another way to determine your watering needs. It is necessary to take a lump of soil and, when it crumbles from light pressing, then you need to water, and if the lump does not crumble when you press on it, watering is not needed.

The frequency of watering the plants depends on the size of the dishes, the age and size of the plants, the quality of the soil mixture (density), the temperature and humidity in the room, the season, and the state of the plant. In summer, those plants that grow in small containers are watered daily or twice a day, in large boxes - once every 2-3 days, and in tubs - once every 4-5 days. So, the smaller the crockery, the faster the soil dries out in it and you need to water it more often. During the period of growth and flowering, plants require a lot of moisture and this should also be taken into account when watering.

In winter, lemons are watered less often, and those that grow in small containers or are placed on a windowsill, where the air is warm and dry, are watered daily. As spring approaches, when the ambient temperature rises significantly, so that the plants do not suffer from a lack of water, they are watered more often.

It is very important to set the watering rate. It should be remembered that the water should soak all the soil in the dishes, not just the top layer. It should be noted: if during planting or transplanting the plant, the soil mixture is prepared correctly (it is fertile, structural and loose), then watering is not difficult. Irrigation water is poured over the entire surface of the soil and it is absorbed by it without delay. With a sufficient watering rate, drops of irrigation water appear in the drainage hole in the bottom of the dishes. This means that the soil is sufficiently moist.

When the soil is not structural, but heavy and dense, then the irrigation water is absorbed by the soil very slowly and first flows down the inner walls of the dishes. Water can appear in the drainage hole even when the entire root layer of the soil remains dry. In this case, watering should be carried out in small portions of water and longer, until the water penetrates into the root layer of the soil.

If water is absorbed by the soil very slowly during watering, then watering should be done in a different way. The pot with the plant is placed in a wide vessel, into which a certain volume of water is poured. Irrigation water by this method of irrigation penetrates into the roots through the drainage hole in the bottom of the pot, by suction. When the irrigation water is completely absorbed by the soil, which is in the pot, but its top layer remains dry, then irrigation water should be added to the dishes.

In the case when the top layer of soil in the pot is wet, but water remains in the vessel, this indicates, however, that the root layer of soil is sufficiently moistened. Then the pot with the plant is removed from the dishes, and the excess water is drained. During repeated watering of the same plant, you can already roughly know the watering rate. It should be remembered that excessive watering leads to the leaching of dissolved mineral salts and depletion of the soil.

What kind of water is needed to water citrus plants?

It is best to use clean fresh water for this: rain, snow or river. When using water from water supply network it is necessary to defend it or boil it for a day, or simply stand it in a place illuminated by the sun in a wide dish in order to reduce the content of chlorine and other disinfectants harmful to plants in it.

Tap and well water often contains various mineral salts. With the systematic use of such water for irrigation, after a few months, the soil in the dishes is saturated with harmful salts (like the scale that appears on the walls of a kettle when water is systematically boiled in it). This gives the soil an alkaline reaction.

On the surface of the soil and along the edges of the pot, salt crystals or white-yellow bloom appear. In such cases, plants lose the ability to normally absorb the necessary nutrients and lag behind in growth, begin to hurt, so they should be transplanted and the soil mixture in the dishes should be replaced. Therefore, tap water and well (hard) water must be boiled before use for watering plants.

The temperature of the irrigation water should be 2-3 ° C higher than the air temperature in the room where the plants are located. For watering citrus fruits, it is not advisable to use either cold water, nor very warm, because in both cases delicate roots die off, the condition of the plants deteriorates.

For economical use of moisture, the soil in the dishes must be loosened at least once a decade. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the soil and improves its air regime.

Citrus plants are native to the subtropical zone, so they are demanding on both soil moisture and air humidity. When growing such plants in indoor conditions, the air should not be very dry (humidity not lower than 70-75%), but in most cases it is not only dry, but also hot, so the plants need to be periodically sprayed clean water... This can be done with a hand spray that housewives use when ironing their clothes.

Spraying citrus plants with water is best done in the evening or in the morning. With a clear sunny weather, especially when the plants are in a sunlit place, you cannot spray them during the day. This can cause burns, especially on young leaves and shoots. When spraying plants, water on the leaves and bark of the shoots settles in the form of drops, especially when the plants are covered with dust, and the sun's rays, passing through the drop, which is a lens, refracts, as a result of which burns appear on the bark and leaves, sometimes quite strong.

Winter content

Species originating from the subtropics require a mandatory decrease in temperature in winter, this is their physiological need. Illumination and temperature of the content affect the degree of plant metabolism: the higher they are, the more actively the vital processes proceed. The most hard times for citrus crops at home, it occurs from the end of autumn, when the amount of light drops sharply. It is through light that the plant receives energy in the process of photosynthesis. If little energy is produced (in conditions of a lack of light), but a lot is spent (in a warm room), the plant gradually depletes, sometimes "eats" itself and dies. In our winter conditions, even the lightest window sill does not provide the insolation that the plant receives in its homeland, therefore citrus fruits in winter will always, with any illumination, suffer from a lack of light. To help them survive the winter successfully, it is necessary to lower the temperature of the content and increase the illumination.

An insulated loggia or greenhouse with a temperature of about + 14 ° C and additional lighting is suitable for wintering (in cloudy weather - during the whole day, in clear weather only - in the evenings, so that the total daylight hours are 12 hours). Citrus fruits winter well in cool apartments or private houses. V warm apartment you can fence off the window sill from the room with a third frame or film, so that more low temperature

In the absence of cool wintering, citrus plants usually do not live longer than 3-4 years, they gradually deplete and die. Rest lasts from November to February. In early-mid February, when the day is noticeably increasing, most citrus crops "wake up".

Content temperature

Temperatures that are too low or too high inhibit the normal development of citrus plants. In summer, it is desirable that the temperature be kept within + 18 + 26оС, in winter, coolness is needed, + 12 + 16оС. Never expose the plant to freezing temperatures.

Different parts of the plant (roots and crown) must be in the same temperature conditions... If the temperature in the zone of the root system is lower than in the zone of the crown, the roots do not have time to absorb the right amount water. Otherwise, the roots absorb too much of it. These differences are stressful and can cause the plant to fall out of leaves. At the floor, the temperature is always several degrees lower than at the crown level, so it is better to put the plant on a small stand. If the room has warm floors, there is a risk of overheating for the root system.

In spring and summer, it is useful to put citrus fruits on the balcony or take them out into the garden, where they grow and bloom beautifully. However, the pots need to be shaded from the sun. Through the heated walls of the pots, the roots get burned, the temperature balance of the roots and foliage is disturbed.

When the plant returns to the room in autumn, abundant leaf fall is often observed due to a sharp change in conditions. To avoid it, you should not wait for a strong cold snap and turn on the heating systems, but bring the plant in early. Then there will not be a large difference in temperature and humidity. You should also take care that the illumination does not drop too much.

Organize your home tropics - plant indoor citrus plants. They will diversify the interior and will delight you with delicious juicy fruits. These plants have a special charm, because for us they are a manifestation of something exotic. V...

Organize your home tropics - plant indoor citrus plants. They will diversify the interior and delight you with delicious juicy fruits.

These plants have a special charm, because for us they are a manifestation of something exotic. V middle lane Citrus fruits in Russia cannot be seen on the street or in the park, this beauty is available only in indoor conditions. And even here they show their rather capricious disposition, and above all this concerns wintering. This is the most difficult period for lemons and oranges, not everyone can survive it. What do citrus fruits need in general and in winter in particular?

Lighting

The number one task is to provide plants with sufficient lighting, because they are very photophilous (they should only be protected from the midday summer sun).

The most optimal is to place exotic plants on the south-east or south-west windows, and in the summer - in the garden, under the light shade of trees. V winter time it is desirable to provide "pets" with additional intense lighting so that the daylight hours are at least 12 hours. If there is not enough light, the plant, alas, will not be able to fully develop.

For the summer, it is advisable to take citrus plants into the garden and be sure to put on sunny place.

Cool wintering

The second condition for good growth of bright exotics is a decrease in temperature in winter to 12-16 C. In the absence of cool wintering, citrus fruits usually do not live longer than 3-4 years, gradually deplete and die. The rest of the southerners lasts from November to February. In early - mid-February, when the day begins to increase, most citrus crops wake up and grow.

A winter garden or a greenhouse heated to 3–12 ° C are ideal places for wintering Calamondin:

And clementine:

Fruits hang on branches all winter and begin to ripen only in spring.

Watering

Harvest is impossible, and plant life in general without the correct irrigation regime. Do not allow too long breaks between watering, during which "pets" suffer from an excess of moisture, then from a lack. Citrus representatives of the flora should be "watered" so that the substrate in the pots never dries out and is moderately moist to the very bottom.

During the period of active growth in spring and summer, especially in dry and hot weather, this means that the watering can should be handled daily! In winter, it is necessary to check every 2-3 days how wet the substrate is, and, if necessary, water the exotic.

Pest control

If you water your plants properly, they don't experience stress. And this is very important, since this negative factor reduces the resistance of your pets to attacks of pests, such as spider mite and a shield. Fight them with special means protection for residential use. Later, you can safely use the fruits for food, since the active ingredients usually disintegrate within a few weeks. But a healthy plant that is properly watered and from March to October weekly (the rest of the time 2 times a month) is fed with fertilizers for citrus fruits, is able to withstand enemies itself.

Black plaque is a consequence of the vital activity of the scale insects. Pests secrete a sticky secret on which a sooty fungus settles. To get rid of the misfortune, spray the plant with this solution: dilute 20 ml of vodka and liquid soap in 1 liter of water. Wipe the leaves with a soft cloth.

And one more good news: caring for all citrus plants, regardless of the type and variety of by and large not much different. Once you figure it out, you can literally reap even the most exotic fruits, such as citron.

Such different citrus fruits

Citron, or citrus (Citrus medica), has the largest citrus fruits. Get from the peel essential oil, which is used to flavor drinks, confectionery and culinary products.

Three-leaf poncirus (Poncirus trifoliata) is one of the most cold-resistant citrus fruits: it can withstand temperatures as low as –20 ° C. You can harvest its beautiful, but juicy fruits from September.

Common lemon (Citrus limon) ‘Variegata’ is a real delight for both the eyes and the stomach. The flesh of its striped fruit is very juicy and pleasantly sour in taste.

Lemons ripen all year round... Therefore, you can pick organic fruits whenever you want and use them in food with the zest.

The hand of Buddha is the so-called citron (Citrus medica) ‘Digitata’, the fruits of which are distinguished by a bizarre shape and a very fragrant rind.

Oranges (Citrus sinensis), such as the ‘Ovale Calabrese’, taste sweet, even if they are grown in our latitudes.

Oranges (Citrus sinensis) ‘Vainiglia’ have a particularly delicate taste.

Fortunella oval, or kumquat, or golden orange (Fortunella margarita), leaves no one indifferent: some simply adore it, while others feel real disgust.

After all, its small fruits are eaten whole, that is, the zest is not removed. Their peel is sweet, and the flesh is sour - together they form an incomparable combination.

Wealthy aristocrats have been growing southern citrus plants since the 17th century for their own needs, and also wishing to surprise their guests with rare fruits. Greenhouses were built for bright thermophilic exotics: rooms with large windows, later - whole buildings made of glass, which were heated with wood, which was very expensive.

Particularly popular with collectors was the orange (Citrus aurantium), or bitter orange (citrus fans and gourmets still appreciate the ‘Fasciata’ orange, with its bright yellow-orange striped fruit to this day). By the way, classic English orange jam is made from the pulp and strips of orange peel.

Tips and Secrets

When to prune citrus fruits?

Pruning shears can be taken from March to August, shortening shoots that are too long. Trimming the tops of the shoots makes the crown thicker and stimulates fruit formation.

Why do citrus fruits often shed many ovaries?

Young plants are not able to "feed" all the fruits until they are fully ripe. That is why they shed excess ovaries. This is a completely natural process, since then the remaining fruits grow to normal size and become the most fragrant.

By what signs can you determine that the fruits are ripe?

If the fruit is slightly rolled, it will easily separate from the branch when fully ripe. You need to make an effort to tear it off It's too early to shoot.

What if the citrus plant doesn't want to bloom?

For the formation of flowers, the tub with the "pet" for the summer must be taken out into the garden and placed in a sunny place. By the way, citrus fruits bloom and bear fruit from the age of 4.