How to make a sconce with your own hands from improvised materials. DIY lamp (58 photos): options for table, pendant and wall lighting How to make a round lamp

In this article, we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the cycle - - were considered General requirements to quality, methods of forming a luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first of all - connection rules stationary luminaire to the mains. From the previous article, we learned how to make the main lighting parts of the lamp -. Now is the time to take on a solid, reliable and beautiful constructive foundation for all of this.

About LEDs

LEDs as light sources are becoming more and more popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which gives ample opportunities for independent construction and design. In addition, the low voltage power supply makes the LED light sources safe. Therefore, in this article a significant portion of the material is devoted to how to independently make LED lamp.

However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached ideal: his spectrum is quite tough. It can be softened by various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks to the low-voltage power supply, an outdoor or garden LED luminaire can be made independently without special precautions, as well as be autonomous; then voluminous earthworks and cable laying on the site disappear. In this section, we are more concerned with LED lamps.

Some examples of what can be achieved by taking up lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. Anyone who knows how to use the Internet will compose a similar selection "for ideas" or "for inspiration". And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to embody all this in the material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Desirable - at home, "on your knees."

Materials, tools, equipment, technologies

You don't need expensive and / or hard-to-find materials to make a good lamp. Previous technologies are focused on incandescent lamps, which are very hot and consume a lot of current. Current homemade products have economy and LED lamps that emit little heat, which simplifies the design.

For the manufacture of a lamp, neither in appearance nor in quality is not inferior industrial designs, we will need cuts of metal pipes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized sheet steel with a thickness of 0.4-1 mm and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to do with unnecessary trash. Wood processing for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not bypass it either.

Note: good old glass is also not to be discounted. Take a look, for example, a master class: diy.ru/post/3916/... This is what you can achieve by working at home with such difficult material. Only one small "but" - what the author of the product (a person, without a doubt, very skillful and sharp-witted) calls a cut, in fact, an edging. However, how to call is a matter of literary experts, and it is enough for a master to make a good thing.

Quite simple but tasteful

Examples of excellent lamps made from scrap materials, namely, scraps of wood and paper, are well known to everyone Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The base is most often a rack frame, pasted over with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of what is in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks are better (you can split an old rod into strips), or the ends of modern fiberglass rods; sold in fishing shops. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. After pasting, paper (preferably rice) is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. When dry, it will stretch. After that, for strength, the paper is varnished.

A Chinese lantern can also be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden twigs on which kebabs and kebabs are served to the table). Both are made of light wood that reflects light well enough. And its slightly rough surface effectively diffuses light, which softens it.

From the chopsticks, placing their broadened heads alternately to the left and then to the right, pick up the side light-transmitting panels, pos. 3. And from the table skewers you get a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.

Plastics

But back to the materials, they are not finished yet. Excellent parts for chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic utensils- bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut or grinded. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass - "velvet" - and polished with felt with GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.

The second type of plastic that allows you to make a very original lamp (see fig.) Is polymer clay or just plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens light very well.

Polymer clay is produced different colors direct-plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are at first quite hard, but soften when kneaded. To speed up and facilitate softening, you need to put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the bar, and start crushing when it is absorbed.

Lampshades are molded from soft plastic on a mandrel greased with petroleum jelly. Immediately, if necessary, fill the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in Fig. To obtain an openwork shade, the tip of the package is cut off and the mass is squeezed out with a sausage. After about a day, the product will dry out, then you can, while not removing from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, frills. The product dries completely in 3-7 days.

Bar plastic is used for the manufacture of lamp stands. Having formed the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, the gas is covered to a minimum and “baked” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is undesirable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawed, drilled, polished, painted. In this way, the bodies of the lamps are sometimes not just original, but also quite piquant (see Fig.), And even frivolous on the verge of decency, or even behind it.

Ceramics

Since we are talking about stands, let's try to make a lamp from a bottle. Ceramic drink containers, designed by brand designers, deserve better use than trash, moonshine or recyclable materials for a pittance.

There are 2 problems here: stability and openings for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand, poured into the bottle by 2/3 or 3/4. To solve the second, it seems, you need a tubular diamond drill, which is expensive, quickly wearing out, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:

• Let's select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
• We will securely fix the vessel, which we will drill, so that the drill enters along the normal (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
• Around the place of the future hole, we will mold a roller with a height of 4-6 mm from plasticine.
• Rub a couple of pieces of fine skin together over a tray to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
• Pour it into the hole and drop 3-5 drops of machine oil - you can drill.

For drilling, it is better to put a drill with a copper tube clamped in a chuck in a bed, which turns it into a tabletop drilling machine... These stands are sold at tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefit to the artisan is invaluable. Moreover, you can buy a turntable with a degree scale for the bed.

They drill ceramics with copper and corundum with jerks: slightly pressed - raised - pressed again - raised. The abrasive particles are first eaten into the copper and drilled, but then break off and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum "sputtering" on the copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube, with each feed, falls exactly into the already selected groove.

Electrical fittings

For a novice lighting technician, perhaps, it is best to use sockets for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27H, and the drawing is shown in Fig. It is not possible to fasten such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if there is a M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, with a hand crank, it is very difficult to cut a thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting it or twisting it, even with lubricant. For fastening with flanges, you will have to make a fastening ring, as described in the article on lampshades, this is much easier.

Note: if a wall lamp is made, in which the lamp is located along the base, then cartridges with a side bar are usually used, see Fig., but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also do with a flange chuck: an Ω-shaped clamp is bent from the wire and fastened to the base with self-tapping screws.

The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the luminaire to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for the sake of ease of installation, but also according to the safety requirements: suddenly the chandelier will break, its thinner wires will break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring will not suffer, which will prevent an accident and ceiling grooving repair work.

It is better to take a terminal block of the "scallop" type, see fig .:

Such are compact, reliable, exclude an accidental short circuit, and by biting the jumpers between the sections, it is elementary to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to enter into each terminal no more than 2 stranded wires with a cross-section of copper up to 1.4 sq. mm in total and no more than 1 single-core, regardless of the area cross section its conductive core.

About wooden lamps

Wood, on the one hand, is easy to process and looks solidly finished. On the other hand, in order to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological methods. Which we will consider.

Cable ducts

The first problem that arises in the manufacture of a wooden lamp: how to make cable channels in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, "on the knee", you can use a wood drill with a tapered 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly put on it, squeezed, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to make a manual crank; for easier and more accurate work, it is better to take a two-tape drill.

Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:

1. At both ends of the workpiece, blind holes of the required diameter are drilled, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to make them go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
2. Drill with the described manual crank alternately from both ends, passing each time no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
3. The shavings from the holes are carefully removed after each pass;
4. After connecting the jumper, the hole goes through twice, from one end and the other. This is necessary to remove the step inside, which the cable can catch on when tightening.

How to bend a tree?

It is quite possible to make a lamp made of bent wooden parts with your own hands: aged fine-grained wood softens under heating, without delamination, but after cooling down, retains the shape given to it. Bamboo, walnut and soft wood, eg. Linden. More difficult - wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. For bending oak, beech, mountain ash and other hard species, it is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to take it. MDF also bends well.

Wood is bent either steamed in boiling water, or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but it is suitable, except for bamboo, for few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because wood does not swell and, when cooled, does not shrink.

To bend wood, you need a piece steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both open for dry bending. The steaming pipe is installed obliquely, the workpiece is placed in it, poured over with water and boiled. Boiling water must be vigorous so that the workpiece bathes in bubbles of steam. The process continues for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can take out the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water instead of boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe with a construction hairdryer. First, on a sample of wood, you need to check what temperature it can withstand without charring and cracking.

How to tighten the cables?

Cables in the tubular parts of the luminaires are tightened using a guide rod - "fishing rod" - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. The "rod" must be completely flat; a smoothly bent wire wound from a spool can also be crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the "fishing rod" is straightened by pulling it through a rag tightly clamped in a fist. The best guides come from enamelled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.

The "fishing rod" is introduced from the far end. Before this, its tip is tightly bent, see fig., So that it is rounded. The traction is pushed into the curved canals, slightly feeding and turning. When passing from channel to channel (see below), the running end is directed with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.

When the end of the rod appears from the opposite side, it is cleaned by 20-30 mm and tinned. Cable wires are stripped and tinned by the same amount, up to 3 for 1 "fishing rod". Then everything is twisted together and soldered. The twist is bent in the opposite direction of tightening so that it does not cling. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and tightening the guide. When tightening, the cable in the duct must not be pulled all the time! If caught, pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull it again.

Note: in a straight metal tube with an inner diameter of 12 mm, you can tighten up to 4-x 2-wire cables in double insulation with a cross-section of copper conductors up to 0.5 sq. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree - only 1 of the same cable.

Starting from the ceiling

Suspension of the luminaire to the ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable node. Hanging lamps at the 1st point is allowed only if the base is viscous durable material e.g. oak beams, pos. a) in Fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the luminaire anchor must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must be in compression, pos. c) - e).

A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using a fixing bar, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the fastening holes in the strip should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is gypsum plasterboard, or suspended, or tension, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the decorative level with the help of wooden or metal crosspieces or plywood plates, at the top in the same place. How to make a suspension in some other cases, see below.

The main requirement for the suspension is that the luminaire should never hang on wires. It should be held either by a rigid bar, or a strong cord / rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. The power cable must be in a loose loop under the top suspension dome and must not be pulled, pinched or pinched anywhere.

How to make a lamp?

Now he will try to bring the information received into a single piece, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as sincerely as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:

• Complicated and / or requiring special skills of technological operations are avoided in every possible way.
• We use glue or solder joints only for auxiliary ones, which keep the abutting parts from displacement. Assembled without gluing and soldering, the product should, in the absence of external influences, be kept intact in the normal position for an indefinitely long time.
• From an additional tool, we will try to do with a manual electric drill and a small removable locksmith vice with screw clamp for attachment to the table.

Let's start with a chandelier as the most sophisticated type of household lighting fixture.

Chandelier

On a cord

The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in fig. In this case, 4 additional holes will have to be drilled in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green at pos. 1a. The knots of the cord must be knitted that do not slip and do not open, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any rotting strand (eg linen) with a loose diameter of 8 mm. Spiral cords and ropes are not designed for continuous tensile load!

The most important part is the suspension hook (red gearbox). It needs to be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod will withstand a weight of up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made chandelier hook, it won't get any worse.

Suspension rods with the same weight - from 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg, you can get by with 1.5 mm, and with a weight of up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheet 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for a weight up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.

Note: the technology of brazing steel at home is described in.

In this case, it is better to secure the upper cup from slipping with a rubber ring, because the spring washer can transfer the cable underneath. A good pallet comes from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the shade, it is turned downwards, respectively, with the painted or mirrored side. Radial cuts are made under the lampshade braces in the pallet.

The top cup and cap are made of plastic dishes, see above. The cap lies loosely on the pallet. Glue - any mounting glue.

Note: the bottom nut of the chuck fastening should go into the hole of the pallet, and not press it down. Otherwise, it may be difficult to repair or clean the chandelier.

On the tube

In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (pos. 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to knit a knot on their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of rods can be any from 3. Accordingly, the ring can be made without an additional row of holes, such as described in the article on lampshades.

It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut from the side at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link of a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. NS.

An eyelet for a hook in the suspension bar is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After that (and not before) a hole is drilled for the cable laying, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A rod for a luminaire weight up to 15 kg can be made of the following types of pipes:

1. Steel one-piece - inner diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing - painting or covering with a heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) of the desired color.
2. Steel with a seam - int. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finish is the same.
3. Copper gas in plastic sheath - int. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. No finishing is necessary, and so it shines with copper for years. You can not solder, under the glue joint you need to remove the plastic cover in that place.
4. For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper - int. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. It is very easy to solder and stick. To preserve the copper luster, you need to cover the finished bar twice with a transparent acrylic varnish water-based, diluted by half with distilled water.
5. Plain red copper - int. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is brazed after stripping, you need to use a flux paste with borax. It gets dark over time and under the coating, so it is better to make retro-style lamps from such tubes.
6. Taped propylene are very strong, but do not stick and, of course, are not soldered. It is useless to trim, the design is terrifying anyway.

Multihorn

The tubes can be used to make chandeliers with arm brackets for individual lighting fixtures. The device of the connection unit of the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. Horns with their even number are connected in pairs by through threaded rods M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for studs are located at different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can use horns, incl. with an odd number of them, fasten with pairs of small self-tapping screws for metal, but then tighten the cables very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.

Note: complex / extended bends of the tubes are formed in sections, gradually moving the hand pipe bender along the length of the future bend.

If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover the knot of their connection with the bar with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown with a dotted line in pos. 5). In addition, then the cabling will be much easier: a terminal block will fit under the hood, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire cable will pass up in the rod.

Multi-arm chandeliers are most often made with switchable lighting. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Do not forget - SB switches (commutators) must be included in the phase wire! And yet, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped with protective grounding, under no circumstances use a ground wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply scheme (solidly earthed or isolated neutral)! The earthing switch is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in correctly arranged wiring is black. But in any case, before starting the electrical work, you need to find the zero and the phase with the phase indicator!

About phases, zero and ground

Safety regulations (PTB), electrical installation devices (PUE) and Codes of Rules (SP) for the production of electrical work for related industries (eg construction) unambiguously regulate the color of the insulation of only grounding wires - yellow with a green stripe; colors for phase conductors A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system with an isolated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to denote phase A in white or light gray. without a hitch ”is not always possible.

The chandelier is heavy ...

For ceiling luminaires weighing 15 kg or more, mounting on the 1st rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the luminaire with 3 times the headroom.

The cradle is attached to the ceiling using a triangular or square bearing plate made of steel with a thickness of 5 mm, pos. 7 in Fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is obligatory: without it, if one of the corner attachments becomes excessively weakened, the mechanical load will “bump” to the next weakest one, the suspension will break out according to the domino principle and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.

Corner attachment points should be located on a conventional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the weight of the chandelier in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in concrete ceiling should be from 9 of their diameters, as in the case of a 2-point suspension on a bar, see above. The lugs or hooks for the branches of the cradle are welded to the base plate. Homemade eyelets can be made from 6mm wire rod.

... and ultralight

Hobbyists make a lot of fixtures out of disposable plastic dishes, PET bottles, and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the cartridge in the lampshade / plafond from the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, take the cartridge E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. The "ears" of the cartridge with the help of a sewing needle are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with thread, thin copper wire or fishing line.

Secondly, the suspension of a lightweight lamp can also be made from a cradle, but from a fishing line. In the ceiling cap, its branches are introduced together with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (recall, it should not be pulled, pinched or pressed down anywhere) is twisted or twisted in a spiral, then an ignorant guest may at first be dumbfounded: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?

Floor lamp

A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is, in general, an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in Fig. above with luminaire designs. First: the rod (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an inner diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring - galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.

Further, in the lower support of the floor lamp, a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure must be provided for fixing the bottom of the rack. A crosspiece from about 450x450 mm from an oak bar 100x100 mm will go under a standard floor lamp. A blind hole 75-80 mm deep is drilled in it in the center along the outer diameter of the rack, and glued into the socket with mounting glue. They also glue the rack into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in design and in strength, to put on the glue a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum). The described design allows an amateur to do without turned-to-order parts in the manufacture of a floor lamp.

Table lamp

Worker table lamp on our principles of construction it is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: massive enough and solid foundation(wood, plastic) with a stepped through hole along the axis. The lampshade ring is placed on the step and fastened with self-tapping screws. Then it will at the same time press the mustache of the lampshade extensions and it will not dangle.

Note: for the base of a table lamp made of ceramic or glassware, you need to make a knob-top with a stepped hole fitted on its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.

For outdoor lighting

We will leave outdoor lamps for 220 V purchased: it is impossible to make “forever” a sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed case with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable gland turns out to be quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.

However, it may not come to electricity: for temporary lighting in a garden or at a picnic in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see the video:

Video: DIY candle lantern from a coffee can

Such a lamp is also suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be fixed to the lid, which is more reliable.

The permanent outdoor luminaire must already be electric. The main problem here is reliable sealing. Here again glassware with a screw lid comes to the rescue: an outdoor lamp comes out well from a jar. In this case, since a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a container from under conservation. The cable gland is made by punching the cover with a round pointed rod. To ensure complete tightness, aquarium silicone is once and for all applied to the rim of the lid from the inside before screwing it down.

The "once and for all" luminaire assumes the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, tk. not residential or working room... Taking into account these conditions, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from LED strip: it will give rather bright lighting with negligible electricity consumption. For an example of making such a lamp, see:

Video: DIY garden lantern in 15 minutes

In the garden and in general on the site, a high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, just not to leave the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, shed or bathroom. But it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp autonomous: here it is not about the costs of electricity, but of the cable, and who would like to chick a well-groomed area with trenches?

Garden lights powered by solar panels(SB) and a buffer storage battery (accumulator battery) are on sale but, or are expensive, or turn out to be short-lived. Let's try to figure out if we can do it on our own, especially since it is quite possible:

• 4 white LEDs with a current of each 20 mA in a shade made of milk glass or a frosted plastic bottle, more or less acceptable for garden needs, will illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m.With a current of 10 mA each in the light spot it will still be possible to see where the stone is, where is the pit. Total 60 mA on average.
• The battery, taking into account the weak recharge in winter and the decrease in capacity in the cold, should provide the maximum current of the illuminators for at least 30 hours. Finger-type accumulators for 2500-3500 mA / h, frost-resistant up to -20, are on sale. We take the minimum allowable battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
• Voltage drop across the luminous diode approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the discharge mode of the battery, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, and the total voltage of the battery is 6 V.
• SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery of 74%, should provide a current of approx. 75 mA. For winter in mid-latitudes, we take a nominal current of 100 mA.
• Also, taking into account the energy efficiency of the battery and voltage losses during charging, we take the SB voltage of 9 V.
• So that the battery resource does not fall from overcharging, the overcharge current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mA / h and a short circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is maintained, with a battery of 3500 mA / h, even more so. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply put a silicon rectifier diode.

A diagram of an autonomous garden lamp, built taking into account the described conditions, is shown in Fig.:

Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to the degradation of the active medium due to overcharging and only in exceptional cases can it reach a deep discharge; therefore, its service life remains normal when used in severe temperature conditions. The "highlight" here is SB. Their internal resistance is large and nonlinear, according to a power law, it grows with an increase in the load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly more than the nominal one. From this point of view, it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs in this scheme.

The CU control unit closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the “twilight” level. VD1 by that time has already closed and the battery charge will stop. It is connected to the UU battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, the reed switch is better, because a normal low-voltage coil will take more current than all LEDs. It is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S in this case: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, practically to zero. Since the current is constant, the thyristor, once opened, will not "quit" until the battery is completely seated.

About aquarium lighting

Special linear fluorescent lamps are used to illuminate aquariums. Not the same as phyto lamps for flower shelves: the range of aquarium lamps is tailored to the optical properties of the water and the needs of life aquatic plants... Both lamps are unsuitable for general lighting of premises: light that favors photosynthesis is by no means always useful for human vision.

The problems with the choice of lamps are familiar to many. Luminaires are purchased last, so it can be difficult to combine them with all other interior elements. But you shouldn't despair. After all, spectacular lamps can be made independently, without spending a lot of time and money.

1. New Year's decor on the chandelier

You can decorate a finished lampshade with plastic beads, which can be purchased in the New Year's decor department. Bright colors and brilliance will turn the lamp into a real decoration of any interior.

2. Cityscape

The outlines of city roofs, cut from dark paper, are pasted onto a light-colored lampshade. Such an applique can easily transform a boring monochromatic lamp.

3. The whole world at a glance

In every house there are old cards that have been unused for years. You can make a lamp from them with your own hands. Just wrap a piece of the card suitable size old lampshade. For a cleaner look, the paper can be coated with acrylic varnish.

4. From papier-mâché

To make an original lamp with your own hands, you will have to remember the papier-mâché technique, familiar to everyone from childhood. The paper must be torn into small pieces and left for a couple of hours in an aqueous solution of PVA. Then, layer by layer, the object of the desired shape is covered with paper pulp - for example, inflated balloon... After the papier-mâché has dried, the lampshade is ready.

5. The second life of old newspapers

Simply covering the lampshade with a newspaper artificially aged with tea or coffee is too simple a solution. Cut circles out of it and glue them so that they partially cover each other. Interesting game light and shadow guaranteed. Additionally, it is better to varnish the lampshade.

6. Eternal lampshade

From an old metal basket or ordinary wire, you can make a lamp with your own hands, which will become a champion in strength and durability. In addition, such a lampshade is also completely fireproof.

7. From bright cocktail tubes

The lamp made of cocktail tubes looks democratic, but at the same time spectacular. Proto glue the tubes on one side of the old lampshade using silicone glue. If you cut the tubes in half, then the lamp will turn out to be smaller.

8. Chic and shine

Beads that have not been used can be used to decorate the lamp. String them onto fine jewelry wire (available at craft stores) and attach it to the metal base of the lampshade.

9. Clear geometry

Cocktail tubes, painted in gold or silver, will become the material for making a lamp with your own hands. They are fastened together with a threaded thread.

10. Lace patterns

Just cover or glue the plain lampshade with contrasting lace. In the first case, it is better to use elastic laces: they will fit more tightly to the surface of the lampshade and look neater.

11. Paper chaos

Plain white paper, rolled into tubes, becomes the raw material for the original lampshade. Glue them together in a chaotic manner, moving from bottom to top.

12. Cozy lamp for needlewomen

All buttons that do not find a use for themselves can be used to make a cute lamp. String the buttons on strong threads and secure them at the top of the lampshade.

13. In harmony with nature

An intricately shaped branch will be an excellent basis for an unusual lamp. In addition to her, you will need several bulbs in sockets. Just wrap the wires around the branch.

14. Almost edible chandelier

The base from the old lampshade, decorated with cutlery, looks quite brutal. Such a lamp will perfectly fit into the interior of a country-style or loft-style kitchen.

15. Delicate textile petals

For the manufacture of such a lamp, a fabric is selected, the edges of which do not crumble. The petals cut from it are attached to the lampshade with glue.

16. From decorative rope

Spread generously the base for the future lampshade with a thick one and wrap it tightly with a rope with a rough texture. It is not at all necessary to use an old lamp as a basis. Even old dishes, such as glasses or bowls, will work.

17. Lamp in a skirt

Translucent textiles, for example, tulle from old curtains, can find a second life. Gathering it in folds at the top, fix it on the annoying lampshade.

18. In patchwork style

Many colorful shreds are tied on a base from an old lampshade. The more, the better.

19. From favorite postcards

Often, postcards and photos, even those that you like, lie idle for years. Cover a boring lamp with them, and it will instantly transform.

20. Our whole life is a game

A deck that is missing a few cards should not be thrown away. Thick glossy paper with a contrasting pattern is an excellent material for lampshade decor, practical and beautiful.

So, the lighting problem has been resolved. It's time to get acquainted with

Lamps are not just a source of artificial lighting in the interior, but also an important element of decor, without which the composition looks incomplete. You can create bright accents by making a plafond for a chandelier with your own hands, because it is not at all necessary to spend huge amounts of money on the purchase designer models... Read about the nuances of work in our article!

Where to begin?

When creating a plafond with your own hands, keep in mind that using a conventional incandescent lamp is not a good idea. It is better to focus on energy-saving light bulbs that do not heat up so much and, accordingly, do not heat up closely spaced parts, thereby ensuring safety. In addition, they are quite economical, which allows you not to spend money on electricity, and are also durable.

When choosing a material for a plafond, be guided by both aesthetic properties and specifications... Firstly, it should be environmentally friendly, preferably natural bases that will not spread unsafe substances with minimal heating.

Secondly, the shade should not collect a lot of dust: some surfaces, like fabric, are more prone to this than others. Choose an option that is easy to clean and can be easily wiped off with a damp cloth. This does not apply to paper, but due to the cheapness and simplicity of the material, such a chandelier can always be replaced if necessary.

Thirdly, the chandelier should illuminate the room well without darkening it. However, for some interiors, subdued light is more suitable: in a nursery, bedroom or living room for an intimate atmosphere. In such cases, you can show your imagination by making a lampshade that creates light patterns in the room. You, as an author, can implement any of your decisions - and this is probably the main advantage of homemade shades.

We select a plafond for the style of the interior

The chandelier can become bright accent in the interior or its imperceptible, but important addition. With any choice, the plafond should harmoniously match the style of the room.

Unfortunately, not every product can be created with your own hands. For example, classics are characterized by graceful crystal, glass or metal products that cannot be made on their own. But there are other options as well.

Minimalism

The laconic and laconic composition of minimalism can easily be broken due to one extra detail, which will be especially noticeable in such an interior. Regardless of the type of room, simple geometric shapes, the absence of hanging elements, as well as a uniform color scheme, which is included in the general palette of the space, will look appropriate here.

Metal fit well frame structures that darken the light a little, or paper shades without decorative details.

Loft

Here's where you can really roam, so it is in the loft interior, in which homemade products from unusual materials will organically look. It is not scary if the appearance of the chandeliers betrays their non-production origin, because many details of this style put forward their imperfection as the main advantage.

For shades, it is permissible to use even familiar objects: transparent cans, metal devices, frames made of threads or wire. If the height of the ceilings allows, then a long pendant chandelier with a minimalist hood would be an excellent option.

Scandinavian style

Despite its northern origin, this trend in the interior looks very cozy and modern. Minimalist in nature, the Scandinavian style prefers natural materials, as well as light, predominantly white, colors.

There are many options for the design of a chandelier - the style does not greatly limit its forms. But not everything can be created on your own. Ball-shaped are suitable, air models made of thread or paper.

Provence

Coming to us from distant French villages, Provence prefers simple, cozy aesthetics natural materials, floral patterns, as well as light shades. Something like this should be the shade for the chandelier.

Products made of fabric or lace of a rounded shape look appropriate. With a small level of skill, you can ennoble the glass bell with decoupage, thereby saving money - after all, despite its simplicity, authentic Provence involves significant costs in the arrangement.

Plafonds made of paper

Although paper is not considered the most a solid foundation for lampshades, but the ease of working with it and the noticeable cheapness made this material very attractive among needlewomen. In addition, with its help, you can update the interior at least every month, creating new crafts.

Origami plafonds

Who was not fond of origami in childhood, designing animals or complex modular paper products? Now you can apply your skills for more practical purposes. However, even people who first encountered this activity can also easily master it and make origami shades for a chandelier with their own hands.

These are laconic designs of various geometric shapes that fit perfectly into a modern interior. It is not recommended to use very strong paper as it does not transmit light well.

Curly products

However, lovers of a more varied decor can create plafonds of a wide variety of shapes from paper. For example, surround the lamp with paper houses, butterflies, or envelopes.

The appearance of such a plafond also depends on the surface - monochromatic, patterned, newspaper, and so on. By combining these materials, completely different effects can be achieved.

Chinese lanterns

If you have paper lanterns at home, do not rush to use them as an independent plafond, because this is an excellent basis for other experiments.

It can be pasted over with anything, but to avoid a homemade look, we suggest decorating the ball with small paper scales or long "feathers" that will gracefully hang down to the bottom.

Plafonds made of threads

Various threads and ropes are an excellent base for a lampshade, which is suitable for creating an intimate atmosphere with a darkening effect.

Graceful cocoon

A round shade made of randomly wound threads looks very simple and at the same time stylish. In order for such a material to keep the desired shape, it is fixed with glue on a balloon, which is delicately removed after the end of the work.

Although the field for creativity here is small, you can always experiment with colors, weaving in several shades.

Knitted shade

Such a solution from threads looks less chaotic. The main conditions for its manufacture are the ability to knit or the presence of a grandmother who will kindly knit a napkin for you. The finished product must be placed on any base - metal carcass, transparent container, Chinese ball. Similarly with the first option, you can fix the lampshade on the balloon with glue.

Plafonds from bottles

Stylish indoor chandeliers different types you can even create from bottles. This includes both glass and plastic containers.

Glass bottles or jars

The principle of working with such a base is simple: choose the most beautiful one and hide the lamp in it. Elongated bottles or small jars can be used. It is necessary to make sure whether the glass allows the amount of light necessary for the room to pass through, and in case of a lack, several sources can be used.

If the chandelier plays more of a decorative function, the bottle can be covered acrylic paint or painted.

Plastic shades

Plastic bottles should not be used intact. But making cheap parts for a homemade plafond out of them is quite realistic.

Chandeliers from the bottom of ordinary bottles, which resemble a flower in shape, look luxurious (as far as this word is generally applicable to plastic). They are fastened together with a wire for better fixation, creating a variety of compositions.

Another option is a 10-liter eggplant covered with plastic spoons, which are lined up in several rows, like scales. The design will transmit a subdued but uniform light, which will further decorate the product.

Plafonds made of metal elements

Enough unusual solutions metal products are also offered for chandeliers. Fortunately, you don't need to make them yourself, so you don't need any special metalworking skills. But a spectacular appearance is provided in any case.

Kitchen appliances

Do not rush to throw away your old spoons and forks - they will come in handy for creating an original design. By placing a dozen fixtures around the lamp, you get a great kitchen chandelier shade that fits perfectly into the theme.

The same effect can be achieved using, for example, a grater. In general, you can experiment with any appliances, especially if your interior is decorated in a loft style. Just make sure that the metal parts are not very hot.

Gear dome

If you want to add a little steampunk to your life, make a gear chandelier shade. These can be obtained by dismantling an old bike, or bought at a flea market. But the result is definitely worth the effort!

We examined the features of making plafonds for chandeliers with our own hands and the most popular solutions from various materials... But, of course, there are many more interesting options - as evidenced by our selection of photographs. Happy viewing!

Self-made sconces from scrap materials will decorate any interior. This does not require special skills and large financial investments. Purchase a lamp holder in advance. hardware store, and already to come up with a lampshade. There is only one requirement for materials: they must withstand high temperatures if the luminaire is used with incandescent lamps.

From paper

Openwork

To make a sconce, a base for a floor lamp is cut out of paper, and with the help of a clerical knife, neat holes are made, imitating lace. This option allows you to diffuse light from the source.

From the cylinders

Shades can be easily glued from a variety of colored paper strips.

From paper tapes

Origami

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

Herbarium

Materials:

Manufacturing:

Paper shade decoration

A Chinese paper shade in the shape of a ball can be easily turned into original item interior.

Made of cardboard

Cardboard is used like paper, but for a solid form it has a wider range of applications. Cardboard is used without consequences with incandescent lamps.

Round shade

Thick cardboard is used for its texture on the cut. Such products are usually not dyed. The sconces from corrugated cardboard, which are made in the form of a ball. It will take a lot of material, but manufacturing will not take much time.

It is necessary with the help of a compass to draw circles on cardboard, cut them out with a clerical knife to get an even cut and glue them together in the desired shape.

Square lamp

Materials:

• corrugated cardboard;
• PVA glue;
• stationery knife;
• scissors;
• cartridge;
• pencil and ruler (triangle).

Manufacturing:

1. A large square with an edge of 20 centimeters or more is drawn on a sheet of cardboard using a ruler.
2. Then, with a step of 1 centimeter, so many smaller squares are inscribed inward until there is no free space in the center. As a result, the largest square will have an edge of 20 centimeters, the next one 18, 16, and so on.

   

3. With the help of a clerical knife, the cardboard is cut into blanks, several square frames are obtained.

   

4. There are 4 such blanks that must be made so that the largest square always has the same rib length. Those details that will be inside can be reduced by a different number of centimeters.
5. After everything is ready, each side plane of the future luminaire must be decorated. The outer square will always be the same, and inside the frame, they will be placed at will. Glue them together using PVA.

   

   

   

   

6. For the base, thin strips are cut out of cardboard, equal in length to the edge of the square. They are folded in 4-5 pieces and glued together. A hole is made in one place to stretch the cartridge.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

7. When everything is ready, the side edges of the lamp are glued together and the bulb is screwed into the socket.

   

   

   

From newspaper tubes

To create a sconce, cut the newspaper into identical strips, twist into tubes and, putting them in the desired shape, glue them together. The finished product is put on top of a cartridge with an energy-saving light bulb.

Made of wood

The tree offers a wide variety of ideas. Smooth blocks are folded like a tower when playing mahjong, they create a frame from them and stretch paper (Japanese style), connect together in a chaotic manner, like a nest.

Lamp-dog

Materials:

• Wooden bars 30 by 25 millimeters in cross section;
• Metal planter for flowers;
• Light bulb wire;
• The cartridge is the size of the pots;
• Black paint;
• 6 bolts;
• drill.

Manufacturing:

From threads

The original thread lamps are designed for use in dry rooms, so they are not suitable for the bathroom, but they look good in the kitchen and living room. They are made with the help of balloons, which are wrapped with threads greased with glue. When the structure is dry, the ball is burst, and the rest of the rubber is removed. It turns out a fairly dense braided frame.

Threads allow you to experiment with the shape, size and color of the finished product. Such a lamp is decorated with beads and beads, artificial flowers or decorative butterflies cling to it. Initially, you should leave holes at the bottom and top for the cartridge and the possibility of replacing bulbs. In this case, it is better to use energy-saving lamps that do not heat up.

From the pipes

Loft sconces are best made from metal pipes and fittings.

Materials:

• Fittings - the amount varies from a specific composition;
• Wire and lamp holder;
• Drill;
• Adhesive for metal.

Manufacturing:

1. Connect the fittings together in a single composition. Lamps in the form of people or dogs look the most interesting. Some parts are connected to each other using a ready-made thread, others will require glue.
2. A small hole is made in one of the "legs" of the object through which the cord will stretch.

   

   

3. When all the parts are connected to each other, an electric cable is run in the hollow tubes. It is pulled out from the side where the lamp will have a lamp.

   

   

   

4. The wire is connected to the socket into which the lamp is inserted. Due to the flat and heavy parts, such a lamp does not require an additional stand and can be used just like that.

   

   

   

   

   

   

   

Wire

Often a frame is made from it, which is then covered with another material. If the material is taken too dense, then individual parts will have to be welded or soldered. It is enough to wind the thin wire in an inconspicuous place.

Wire helps to create unimaginable products, imitate other materials, and make antique sconces.

Ball with butterflies

Materials:

• The wire is thick and thin;
• Nippers;
• Lamp holder;
• Braiding form (ball, vase, bottle).

Manufacturing:

From bottles

From a dark bottle with a narrow neck, you can make a fairy lamp in a couple of minutes. To do this, immerse it in LED garland with small bulbs and plugged in.

You can cut the bottom off the bottle, and then insert a suitable shade inside.

It will be effective if you connect several of these bottles by twisting the wires together.

To detach the bottom glass bottle you will need: a woolen thread, a lighter and a flammable liquid (alcohol, ignition fluid).

1. Block the drain in the sink and fill it with water. It is important that there are no flammable objects nearby during the process.
2. Remove the labels from the bottle, wash it thoroughly.
3. Where the cut should pass, wind a thread soaked in a flammable liquid several times.
4. Set fire to the thread.
5. Hold the burning bottle over the sink and slowly rotate it along the axis so that the fire touches the entire surface of the future cut.
6. After 2 minutes, sharply immerse the bottle with its bottom in water, after which the bottom will come off by itself and remain in the sink.

From the branches

It is difficult to make a plafond for a sconce with your own hands made of wood if you have no experience with this material. A simple way is to use small branches by gluing them together in any shape you like. It is convenient to connect natural wood with a glue gun.

Small lamps may not require a special frame, and floor sconces require a ready-made base from an old lamp or a large amount of wire. Such sconces look beautiful in an interior where elements from natural materials are already present.

From plaster

Gypsum cannot be classified as improvised materials, but beautiful laconic works are obtained from it. To make a lamp, you will need a form into which the plaster mixture will be poured, so you will have to think about it in advance. You will also need tools that will have to make holes for the cartridge and wire.

Creative stores have foundations for lamps in the form of different shapes. They are usually made of disposable plastic and are easy to handle. To make several of the same lamps, you will have to find a silicone mold.

Materials:

• large glass flask;
• medical bandages;
• gypsum;
• water;
• lamp holder.

Manufacturing:

In order for the lamp to transmit light, the mixture is made strong enough, but the bandages are wound in a maximum of 3 layers, leaving holes. The finished lamp, if desired, can be painted with spray paint.

Plywood

Plywood is easier to handle than solid wood, but it also requires basic carpentry skills, since to make a sconce, you first have to create a drawing and accurately cut every detail.

Plywood luminaires can be of different shapes. For the manufacture of flat wall lamps, 2 identical figures are cut out, which are fixed at a short distance from each other. A cartridge with a light bulb is inserted inside. When the light in the room is turned off, and only the night light is on, a person sees only the outlines of a plywood figure.

Flat light

Materials:

• plywood;
• 3 brackets;
• jigsaw;
• dye;
• cartridge;
• self-tapping screws;
• glue gun.

Manufacturing:

Pendant lamp

Materials:

• 1 sheet of thin plywood 1 square meter;
• Wood glue;
• Grinder;
• Electric Circular Saw for small jobs;
• Lamp holder;
• Pencil;
• Compass.

Manufacturing:

1. On a sheet of plywood, 2 figures are marked with a compass. The first has a diameter of 10 centimeters, while another circle with a diameter of 4 centimeters is inscribed inside. The inner circle should correspond to the size of the future lamp holder, so it can be larger.
2. The second circle is drawn with a diameter of 14 centimeters from the outside and another one with a diameter of 8 is inscribed there.

   

3. 2 rings are cut from the blanks, which are the top and bottom of the lamp frame.
4. On the remaining plywood sheet, side wedges are drawn in the amount of 20 pieces, in the same place they make recesses 1 centimeter deep and 4 millimeters wide.

   

   

5. All parts are carefully sanded so that the cut parts become smooth.

   

6. Side blanks are connected to rings.

   

7. A cartridge is inserted into the upper ring. The lamp is ready for use.

   

   

Lamp in the shape of a letter

Lace

Usually this material is used for classic floor lamps. Balls, thick paper or wire are taken as a basis. Lace on the base is fixed with threads or glue. Some specifically soak the material in starch so that it holds its shape well.

Materials:

• cut of lace;
• starch, PVA glue, gelatin (optional);
• balloon;
• cling film;
• bulb holder;
• sharp scissors.

Manufacturing:

1. Cut out circles of the same shape from lace, for this it is convenient to use a large plate.

   

   

2. Lower the workpieces into a container with diluted starch to make the material stiffer.

   

   

3. The balloon will become the basis. To make it easily fall behind the lace, the ball should be covered with cling film.

   

4. Glue the entire ball with lace, trying to carefully smooth out the folds. The layers must be on top of each other. If the lace is thin, then after the first layer the structure should be left for an hour, and then the second layer should be applied.

   

   

5. After 2 days, pierce the ball and remove.

   

6. Make a hole in the resulting sphere to insert the cartridge and fix the suspended structure.

   

   From yarn

   If you have the knitting skill, neat crochet and knitting floor lamps look beautiful.

   Materials:

   

   

   • wooden plank;
   • electric cord;
   • lamp holder;
   • gelatin;
   • yarn.

   Manufacturing:

   1. Using a hook or knitting needles, they knit a blank for a shade, which should resemble a dome in shape.

      

      

   2. 2 packs of gelatin are diluted in a glass of water, the future shade is placed on a vase or other suitable surface and smeared with dissolved gelatin. Leave for a day.

      

   3. A blank is made of wood in the form of a circle, it will be attached to the wall. A hole for the cable and a small groove are made in it so that it does not interfere with the lamp from adhering to the surface tightly.

      

      

   4. A cable is inserted into the hole, then a dried knitted shade. The cable is connected to the socket, the structure can be hung on the wall. If desired, you can find a metal nozzle on the plafond so that it better keeps its shape at the base. In the same way, a lining is made to match the lampshade in the form of a wooden plate on the wall.

      

      

      

      

      

      

   In addition to knitting, yarn is also used for wrapping the warp. You can focus on one color or take several, forming stripes. With enough skill, yarn can be used to make designs, logos and words.

   

   It is best to take acrylic yarn for lamps and do not use incandescent lamps.

   From cutlery

   Unusual compositions are created from metal cutlery. To make a sconce out of them, you will first have to perform a solid foundation from dense wire. Then drill a hole in each handle and then secure all fixtures to the frame. A similar product looks good if different cutlery of the same size is used.

   

   In a room where there are many metal parts in the interior, multilevel lamps are made from spoons that resemble flowers. To do this, 7-8 spoons are fixed around the cartridge with the help of a wire, forming petals. Use teaspoons or coffee spoons with small cartridges. These flowers are beautifully collected in one chandelier.

   

   Made of plastic

   The basis for the sconce can be plastic bottles. The same type of parts are cut out of them, which are then connected to each other. To make the product look neat, the sections are processed with a lighter. Often a ball-shaped lamp is made in this way. You can connect the fragments together with a glue gun, but you can only use an energy-saving lamp with such a floor lamp.

   

   

   From spoons

   Another option for a plastic lamp involves the use of disposable plastic spoons. The result is a bump-like lampshade that can be spray-painted if desired. They take as a basis plastic bottle, for 3 or 5 liters. Cut out the bottom of it. And then spoons are glued along the rows, from which the handle was previously removed. A convenient way is a glue gun. Manufacturing starts at the bottom and imitates scales.

   

   From the plates

   Materials:

   • 50 flat plates with a diameter of 18 centimeters;
   • a ready-made drum-shaped lampshade with a diameter of 15 centimeters and a height of 13 (if it is made of paper, the excess can be cut off);
   • glue gun;
   • base for the lamp;
   • ruler, scissors, pencil and stationery knife.

   Manufacturing:

   
   

   From clothespins

   Materials and tools:

   

   • cartridge and light bulb;
   • construction metal mesh;
   • clothespins for linen;
   • spray paint of the desired color;
   • scissors for metal;
   • metal paper clips.

   Manufacturing:

   
   

Taking on the arrangement of the interior space, it is important to think over every little thing. After all, we all subconsciously strive for comfort and precisely smallest details able to create a special atmosphere, convey the general idea, mood and character of the room. Professional designers claim, and interiors clearly prove that the right choice of chandeliers can not only decorate the interior of a room, but also make life brighter and more fun. Beautiful shades for chandeliers with an original design give special grace and gloss to the lamps. You can find out how to make them yourself and what materials are better for this to be used in this article. A detailed, step-by-step master class, as well as a visual photo, will be an excellent help for you in this exciting process.

Material selection

When making a chandelier, it is difficult to single out any one material that would meet all the requirements. Each of them has its own individual characteristics and characteristics. For example, paper, which is the most simple and available material, lends itself well to transformation.

Luminaires made from shards of glass and strips of metal have a dazzling shine and beautiful appearance. Wood and fabric add warmth and comfort to the interior. Lacy lampshades are distinguished by their special beauty, captivating everyone at first sight.

In a word, you can make a chandelier with your own hands from anything, the main thing is to be smart in time and turn on imagination.

A paper napkin chandelier is a bold but justified experiment

We will describe in detail in this article how in an ordinary object you can see its creative potential for creating an exclusive decor element.

Step-by-step instructions, with a description of each action, will help you make incredibly beautiful and unique lamps from available tools, which will be a great addition to your favorite interior.

What you need to pay attention to before making a chandelier

Many are interested in how to properly make a chandelier in, and other rooms. After all, I want this element of the interior to be not only beautiful, but also functional.

On the one hand, the chandelier is lighting fixture, capable of providing the proper level of lighting in the apartment. Indeed, a lot depends on the choice of light in the room, including the safety of the eyes. On the other hand, I want ceiling structure complemented the interior design, creating a special atmosphere of warmth and comfort.

When making a chandelier, the first thing to consider is the height of the ceiling. For example, a chandelier with a bar mount is suitable for low ones. So, the ceiling will look visually higher. If the ceilings are high - 3 m and more, then it is better to make your choice in favor of a pendant lamp with a hook mount.

Lamp selection

For any room, you need to individually approach the intensity of its lighting.

A small bathroom will require 80-100 watts.
Kitchens need a minimum of 120-150 watts of lamp power.
The living room and the hall cannot do without light bulbs in the range of 150-300 W.

The number and power of lamps is calculated based on established standards - 20 watts are required for 1 m². electricity. It is also necessary to take into account the parameters of the room, its dimensions and reflective properties.

Edison's designer lamps - look beautiful and unusual

Plafond decoration

The appearance, decor and design of the plafond play an important role in the design of the chandelier. It is selected for the interior of the room, depending on the style. Crystal for classics, metal and glass for, wood will perfectly fit into country or chalet style, fabric and silk will perfectly suit Provence style.

To illuminate a room in several levels, you can additionally make wall sconces or floor lamps.

Step-by-step manufacturing workshop

You don't have to start from scratch to create a beautiful ceiling decoration. Take a look around, for sure you have a thing in your house that you have not used for a long time. And who knows, maybe it is she who will become the main subject in the manufacture of the original lamp. Moreover, there are now more than enough ideas and inspirations for creativity on the Internet.

Important! It is best to start searching for the necessary things from the kitchen or balcony. It is there that we store all sorts of rubbish that was once so necessary for us and with which, as often happens, it is so difficult to part later.

Spectacular mug chandelier

As strange as it may sound, but it is from dishes and other kitchen utensils that the most unusual and interesting models of lamps are obtained. For example, tea mugs are the ideal material for making a spectacular light fixture.

For work we need:

• Mugs
• Saucer
• Drill
• Porcelain drill with special hole

We make it quickly and easily

1. At the bottom of the mug, make a small hole for the wire with a drill, attach the electric cartridge and bring the wire out. It is advisable to close the hole with a plaster mixture.
2. Next, the mug must be glued to the saucer, where there should also be a hole, insert a light bulb and hang the newly made lamp in the right place.

As you can see, the original and fashionable design can be obtained from completely ordinary objects.

Mesmerizing yarn chandelier

Since this is quite simple product, for its manufacture we need a minimum of things, namely:

• Wire with a cross section of 4-5 mm.
• Nippers
• Thin thread
• Multicolored yarn

Manufacturing instruction:

1. A ring is made of wire, the diameter of which will correspond to the future size of our chandelier. To get a perfectly even circle, you can wind it around any object that has a cylindrical shape.
2. We bite off the excess wire with pliers, leaving 2-3 cm in stock on each side. We tie the ends with a thin thread.
3. It remains to dress up our chandelier beautifully and brightly. To do this, we cut the yarn threads in such a way that the length of each segment is twice the height of the shade.
4. Alternately, on a knot, we tie the resulting strings until we hang the whole ring with them. From the same yarn, we make a fastener for a hook.

You can use such a lampshade both as a chandelier and as a decorative element that decorates the interior of the room.

Combining the skills of macrame and papier-mâché, you can get a stylish chandelier for the bedroom

Important! For the manufacture of such a lamp, instead of woolen yarn, you can use any other thread. The main thing is that it fits harmoniously with your interior.

Unusual teapot lamp

You will learn how to make a chandelier from an ordinary teapot on your own from this master class. Here's what we need for this handmade masterpiece:

• Kettle
• The wire
• Electro cartridge
• Metal chain

Step-by-step manufacturing guide

1. First of all, the lower part of the kettle is cut out. This is done in such a way that the resulting cutting edge is not sharp, otherwise it will be possible to injure yourself.
2. Next, an electric cartridge is fixed to the lid of the kettle, the wire of which is led out through a small hole drilled at the top.
3. A chain is attached to the handle of the kettle, through the links of which a wire is threaded. The lamp is ready.

Let's breathe new life into bottles

Glass bottles, especially if they have beautiful shapes, can be used to make a wonderful chandelier. Required material:

• Thin rope
• Flammable liquid (alcohol or gasoline)
• Glass bottles (preferably colored)
• Edison lamps (having a beautiful spiral)
• Wire and electric cartridge

Do it yourself

1. We wind a rope on the lower part of the bottle, having previously moistened it in a flammable liquid. Then we set it on fire and let it burst, and we begin to slowly rotate the bottle around its axis until the rope burns out to the end. After that, we lower the bottle into a container with cold water, wrap it with a towel and, with a little effort, break off the bottom.
2. To prevent the cut edge from being sharp, it must be sanded. To do this, it will be enough to twist the bottle in sand or fine gravel for a couple of minutes.
3. It remains to correctly mount the electric cartridge, stick out the wire through the neck, screw in the light bulb. From the leftover bottles in a similar way the rest of the shades are made.

This chandelier will perfectly fit into the interior made in any, especially if you hang it over the bar counter.

Decor from cans

Lamps made from cans are no less beautiful. They are made in a similar way as from bottles. The only difference is that the bottom of the can does not need to be cut off, as clear glass is usually used for shades.

We need:

• Beautiful thick-walled cans (preferably with a relief pattern)
• Hammer and nails
• Wire, electric socket
• Spray paint
• Edison lamp

How to do it right

1. To begin with, using a nail and a hammer, holes are filled in a circle in the lid, after which inner part gently squeezed out. The diameter of the circle must match the diameter of the base in the chuck.
2. We insert the cartridge into the cover, mount the wire.
3. Next, paint the cover together with the cartridge in the color of our choice. Metallic paint with a golden overflow will look best.
4. It remains to screw in the light bulb, close the lid and install the lamp in its proper place.

We all know what a globe is, but not everyone knows what delightful things can be made of it. For example, a nice lamp shade for a chandelier that will perfectly fit into the interior of a child's room.

Here's all we need:

• globe
• Bulb
• Electric chuck with retaining element

Step-by-step master class

1. Usually, the design of the globe is not integral, so in order to get the desired element, it is necessary to divide it into equal two parts (hemispheres).
2. Further, at the top of the hemisphere, you need to make a hole for the cartridge. The best way to do this is to use a drill with a crown.
3. The electric chuck is installed in place and securely fixed with a retaining element. Congratulations, your chandelier is ready!

Suspended horn structure

Making a unique lighting device out of deer antlers is quite a simple matter, the main thing is to have the necessary material on hand.

Such structures are famous for their special sophisticated appearance and are best suited for high-rise rooms. Such chandeliers are used in many interiors, but they look especially attractive in country, chalet or rustic style.

As a rule, the shades of such chandeliers have various forms, and only natural material is used for their manufacture.

We will need:

• Antler
• Rope
• Copper wire
• Electric socket and wire
• Bulb

Make a chandelier like this

1. Observing the safety rules, according to the diagram, we connect the wire to the electric cartridge.
2. Next, the wire must be beautifully wrapped with a decorative rope. For better fixation, you can use an all-purpose transparent adhesive.
3. With the help of copper wire, horns are attached to the bottom of the resulting rope, placing them 2 cm above the cartridge.
4. We repeat a similar procedure with the rest of the shades, then combining them into a single composition.