Do-it-yourself electrical work. Do-it-yourself wiring wiring: from circuit to installation. Why do you need a wiring diagram in the apartment

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, should be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with electricians that repairs begin in new apartment or home. With it, any overhaul housing. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they are overgrown primer, paint mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer

electrical wiring will rest for more than a dozen years. That is why, before installing it, you need to carefully consider the future wiring diagram in the apartment.

Where to start execution

As a rule, at the first stages of repair, people usually still have little idea of ​​the final result. And for competent electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since this will depend on the functionality and consistency of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and indeed, all wiring in general. The wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let's say you made repairs, while not really thinking about end result, as the electrician advised, they did it. All is ready. We put the furniture in place, placed the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in a cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third chest of drawers and a fourth bedside table, even near the TV and your favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here, a very fun and exciting game begins, called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring, so that later you could walk and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in the apartment, this is still half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, the wiring changes on average, every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings much less frequently or never at all. Yes, and how many extension cords are needed, for two or three storey building, but they still I need to buy, how much money will be spent? And how many nerves will be spent every time, as you once again, stumble about the pilot's wire lying on the floor.

What to do? Sit down and calmly think, decide on the arrangement of furniture and consumer electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: air conditioner, Dishwasher, freezer, electric water heater, electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can move. Consult with your family, wife and children, in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

We draw the circuit - the power part

As detailed as possible, with all the explanations and pictures, the installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is set out in a step-by-step guide

So, you've made up your mind. Now, you need to put all the ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's as good example Let's take a standard one-room apartment. To complete the scheme, we need:

• notebook sheet
• ruler
• a pen
• colored pencils or markers

On the diagram we indicate the location of the walls and doorways. Specific dimensions are not required, only the general picture.
This is how we got the layout of the apartment. Simple and clear.

In order to make it clear what is at stake, I will number and sign the rooms:

• Room 1 - hall
• room 2 - kitchen
• room 3 - bathroom
• room 4 - hallway

Now, we need to draw on our diagram, the location of furniture and household appliances.

Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means that in these places we will need sockets. Now, we simplify the scheme, remove the furniture, and in places where there will be consumer electronics, draw designation of sockets on the diagram. This is the diagram we should have.
Now let's be clear conventions, which we have used and will continue to use in our schemes.

I'll duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:

• socket
• double socket
• single-gang switch
• two-gang switch
• lamp, chandelier, light bulb
• junction box (junction box)
• end of the wire, for further connection of equipment
• force shield

The specific dimensions, the location of the sockets, will need to be indicated on the diagram, as soon as you finally decide on the places for arranging furniture and appliances.

Drawing a diagram - lighting part

In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing, from the room, number 1 - hall. Fixtures location coordinates, length and width, if available exact dimensions premises, you can specify immediately. For our example, there are no specific sizes, so let's do everything necessary measurements, during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I'll show you how to find the center of the room. First, we measure the width of the room, divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turned out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 \u003d 2, it turns out 2 meters.
Now, we measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, 6 meters long, divide in half, 6: 2 \u003d 3, it turned out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. According to the given values, mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross.
Similarly, we mark all other rooms.
L - shaped room, at number 4 (entrance hall), we divide into two parts and also mark it.
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the fixtures and get just such a picture.
To complete our circuit, we need to draw the switches. To do this, we again need to think and decide, this time, with interior doors. Namely, on which side they will open, to the left or to the right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out by accident. outside the door when the repair will be fully ready. Usually, opening doors is done in the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but also not forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.

Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside the rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when you leave. The control of the light of a particular room will be completely in the hands of the one who is in it. They went to bed, turned off the light, and there was no need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is raw and wet rooms such as bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken out, as the constant ingress of moisture into the switch will lead to its fast failure.

We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before starting the installation of electrical wiring, it will be necessary to indicate on the diagram, the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and indent from the edge of the door.

So, in the end we got two pictures:

1. socket layout
2. diagram of lamps and switches

The first stage has been completed. As a result, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.

Stage two, wiring diagram

To begin with, you need to calculate in detail and think over the route of laying the wire. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which the installation is planned. Know exactly what finishing and finishing work will be done. What should be of interest:
hanging, stretch ceiling
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. Let me explain with a specific example.
Let's say that in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, stretch ceilings are planned. From an electrical standpoint, it's just wonderful. The point is that now if electric installation work are performed independently, you can save a lot of time and effort, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings are due to the fact that now, there is a choice combined method mounting concealed wiring.
We install the wire on the ceiling in a non-combustible corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical strobes.
See how many benefits we get by using this mounting method:
If there is a replacement of electrical wiring, a hidden version, without updating the plaster layer, you do not need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal strobes for laying the wire. This type preparatory work, takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire wiring installation cycle.
No wire pulling required in plate channels ceilings. This method spacers are used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room, to power a chandelier or lamp. We save time and effort, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
Significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, performing installation on the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out, in the standard way of laying, hidden along the walls.
Very desirable, try to bypass concrete floors above windows and doors. The first reason is that it is very problematic to ditch them. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels pass in the floor slabs, since wires will be laid in them for chandeliers and lamps.
Calculate the location of the junction boxes. With the right number and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on the supporting structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we proceed to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we got in the first stage. We superimpose the schemes on top of each other and get the big picture.

Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel ceiling plate. In this room, there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, there will be a junction box.

I would not recommend making sockets with a loop, this will significantly reduce the throughput of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we lead the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.

Now, we draw the route of laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.

From switch to box.

All wires are collected in one place, we sketch the location of the junction box.

Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying wires in other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the floor slab channel to shorten the wire route to one of the outlets. We pass the wires in the channel of the plate, thereby saving time and wire.

Electricity is a serious and responsible business. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Correct wiring electrical wiring in a private house is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to specialists, only proven ones.

Action plan

Wiring in a private house is done before the start finishing works. The box of the house has been kicked out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determining the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
• Entering electricians from the pole into the house. It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install a shield, bring electricity to the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
• Ground loop device and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining an act.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with getting specifications electrical connection and project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to the energy consumption standards for a private house for a single-phase network, the maximum consumption for a house can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380 V network are much tougher: the voltage is higher, there are more chances of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think to heat it with electricity, it is better for you to use 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale, and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal location of the inclusion points is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

Determining the total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be in your house, sum up its power. Average capacities can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there is, take into account the starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the stock to the amount found. The result will be the required power.

You indicate it in papers submitted for obtaining permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are allocated the declared capacity, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private house.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is diluted with an electrician for lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. Just in a separate group stands out the lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms as well as street light.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most powerful and also: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in a modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a summer house, for example, then there can be two or three groups in general: it is for all lighting fixtures, the second - for the street and the third - for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number of machines on the switchboard in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something powerful new, divide the group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.).

By the number of groups, the switchboard and the number of machines in it are selected: for each group there is a separate machine. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The place of installation of the shield is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in the boiler room: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield.

The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the automatic machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the input machine is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not - choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private house, it is better to use cables, not wires. They have at least twice the insulation, so the laying requirements are not so strict, and it is safer to use them. All internal wiring in a private house must be made with protective earth. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and for safe work require grounding. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

AT electrical cables conductors are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is hard, breaks more often, and is more difficult to work with. With self-wiring in a private house and lack of experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used at all in wooden houses inside.

Determining the cross section of the cores

After you have decided on the material, you can choose the diameter of the cable cores. They do this depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

The cross section of the core is selected by current or by the power of all consumers connected to one machine. This is where the house electrification plan comes in handy again, where you have drawn consumer groups. Count the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross section of the wires according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part of it, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. It will compare the found power of all consumers connected to the group (it is easier to find and calculate it).

In the part dealing with copper wires stacked in trays, voids, channels, in the "220 V" column, find the nearest higher value. On this line, move to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The figure indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter, it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, mark the conductors of the same diameter on the plan certain color(Write down so you don't forget what color you marked). After the diameter is determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, a margin of 20-25% is added to the figures found. You have calculated the wiring for your house.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrics in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double (VVG) cable insulation there. Houses made from less combustible materials can use any kind of insulation.

The main thing is that it be intact, without cracks, sagging and other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, sauna, etc.).

Choice of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers, they are standard. You need to know what they are:

• External - when the body sticks out of the wall. They are easier to install: a substrate is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it from above. But few people use such models now, even in summer cottages. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. Under the electrical part, a recess is made in the wall, it is installed and walled up in it mounting box. Inside this box is inserted the electrical part of the socket or switch.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most commonly used today. They are decorated in different styles, painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are put in white.

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends include hidden wiring. It can be laid in grooves specially made in the walls - strobes. After laying and fixing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing with the surface of the rest of the wall.

If the erected walls will then be faced sheet materials- drywall, GVL, etc., then strobes are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The sheath with laid cables is fastened with clamps to the structural elements.

When laying, you need to remember that the internal wiring of a private house is done in accordance with all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all connections must be made in mounting junction boxes;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from them the cable goes down to the outlet or to the switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during the repair or modernization of wiring. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole, hammer in a nail. The main task is not to get into the cable.

Wire connection methods

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

• Twisting. Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into chemical reaction. It is impossible to twist copper and aluminum categorically. In other cases, the length of the bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. Two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are stacked one next to the other. From above, the connection is wrapped with electrical tape and / or packed with a heat shrink tube. If you want the contact to be 100%, and the losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.
• Connection via terminal box with screw terminals. Metal terminals are soldered in the case made of heat-resistant plastic, which are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket, fixed with a screw, using a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.
• Connecting blocks with springs. In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket, which is clamped by a spring. And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.
• Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your private security and the security of your private property. After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - they ring the wires among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate. Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

In the event that a specialist will install the electrical wiring in your house, this information will not become useless for you.

You will need such knowledge in order to control whether the installation is carried out correctly and efficiently, and will also help you understand what is needed to carry out such work: materials, tools and equipment.

Among other things, when living in a house, there are situations in which repair or replacement of individual electrical wiring links in the house is required, but it is not always possible to call an electrician. This is where you will need this information. Knowing how the wiring was installed, you will definitely have an image, the path where it was laid, from what material, what section of the wires, what load they are designed for.

You can determine the appropriate cross-section of the wire by dividing the maximum load current in a certain section of the wiring by the current density for this type of conductor, or you can select it from a special table. Those. with a current strength of 22.7 A, and a conductor density of 9 A / mm2, a cross section of 2.5 mm2 is suitable.

When calculating the total power of energy consumers throughout the house, one must take into account the fact that usually everything does not turn on at the same time. In this case, a demand correction factor is used. In the case when the total power is less than or equal to 14 kW, it is equal to 0.8, up to 20 kW - 0.65, up to 50 - 0.5.

How to markup correctly?

Work on marking for wiring installation begins, with marking the main path of the wires from the electrical panel, as well as all their turns, branches and passages through. When marking, we observe following rules:

• wires on the wall must be mounted either parallel or perpendicular to the floor;
• the marking of the path of horizontal sections should be 0.2 m below the ceiling, which will reduce the likelihood of damage to electrical wiring;
• when turning the electrical wiring, vertical or horizontal, an angle of 90 ° must be observed;
• when installing the route along interfloor or attic floors the path to the lighting devices is marked as short as possible from the junction box.

To mark the track, you can resort to help, you can buy it, or you can make it yourself by painting a regular cord with paint, charcoal or chalk.

When marking, one end of the cord is fixed at the starting point, and the other is stretched parallel to the wall or ceiling, pressing it to the end point of the segment. With the other hand, the middle of the cord is taken away and thrown. Hitting a wall or ceiling, the cord leaves a clear mark.

After the markup is completed, do not rush to throw away wiring diagram electrical wiring, it can be useful in case of repair.

The installation of junction boxes is marked at the points of branching of the electrical wiring, descent to sockets or switches.

If you plan to install hidden wiring, in this case, mark the points for the installation boxes where the switches and sockets of the hidden version will be placed.

Switches, as a rule, are placed at the entrance to the room from the side where door handle, it is possible inside, and it is possible outside it.

Switches are mounted at a height of 1.5 m or 0.5-0.8 m from the floor - this is the standard. The most popular option is number two. When marking the path of wires to the switch, it should be remembered that the distance to the door jamb cannot be less than 0.1 m.

• Currently, the height of the installation of sockets is not regulated. Convenience will be the main argument here.
• When do you plan to install in the room desk, then the socket must be mounted so that it is above the table top.
• In the kitchen, sockets are placed above the kitchen countertop at a height of 0.9 m. It often makes sense to install double or triple sockets.

For a washing machine, an electric stove, an electric water heater, and an electric boiler, it is necessary to provide individual sockets, with separate wiring from the switchboard.

When marking the installation of sockets and switches in a room, bathroom, shower or sauna, do not forget that these rooms have high humidity.

The second zone defines the space within a radius of 60 cm around the bathroom, shower, washbasin, sink, even if they have stationary partitions; the third zone is the space within a radius of 240 cm around the second zone.

Switches and sockets can only be installed in the third zone; they must be protected by RCDs for currents up to 30 mA.

The ceiling lamp is usually mounted in the center of the room.

To determine the location of the lamp on the floor of the room, we mark out two diagonals, the place where they intersect is the center. Using a plumb line, we transfer the central point to and then mark the path for mounting the electrical wiring from the junction box to it.

If you decide to install several lamps on the ceiling of this room, then first of all determine the center line at the center in the length of the room, and then mark the points of placement of the lamps on this line, which are then transferred to the ceiling.

Before starting the installation of electrical wiring, it is worth cutting the wire into pieces, their length will be equal to the space between the junction and installation boxes, lamps and other devices. The wire should be cut into pieces with a small margin of 0.1-0.15 m, which is necessary in order to connect them together and connect them to electrical appliances.

You can fix the corrugated hose to the wall or ceiling using plastic holders, which are fastened with screws, self-tapping screws or dowels - it depends on the material or wall.

To attach the cable channel, you must immediately fix the lower part, then lay the wiring in it and close it with the upper part of the box, by pressing it to the bottom until the lock clicks. If it becomes necessary to check the wires, the upper part of the box can be easily snapped off.

In places of branching of the electrical wiring, special junction boxes are installed.

Installation of sockets and switches open method, is produced on "socket boxes" from insulating material, which can be dry wood, plexiglass, textolite or plastic.

The socket box is cut out in the shape of a circle, with a diameter of 6-7 cm and a thickness of about 10 cm. First, the socket box is attached to it with countersunk screws or glue, and then a socket or switch that does not have an outer plastic case is attached to it.

After that, the "phase" and "zero" are connected to the outlet, and in protected outlets and "ground".

The switch is connected to a break in the “phase”, which means that only the “phase” is led from the junction box to it, which, passing through the switch, will again return to the junction box along another wire and in it is connected to the “phase” that goes to the lamp, and "zero" is brought directly to the lamp, bypassing the switch.

You can determine the "phase" by marking the wiring with a tag or remember the colors of the wire insulation. When the wiring is installed and connected, the indicator will help determine the "phase".

Concealed wiring

Installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out in monolithic houses, houses from, as well as artificial and natural stones, etc.

In houses made of stone or brick, installation of hidden electrical wiring is carried out in special channels, the so-called strobes, they are cut along the path of future wiring, and at the end of the installation they close up

Do you want to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit, or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you don't have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself - this article is for you.

Calculations and scheme

One-line diagram according to GOST

First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you do not need to be an engineer, because you do not need an intricate linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing "by hand". The wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly scatter the cable around the apartment, and calculate its approximate number, as well as determine the load on each future line.

wiring diagram

Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, consider what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.

It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one loaded line, for example, in the kitchen, it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.

Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.

Cable selection

In order for electrical appliances to work without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate section. And if, on the same line (for example, to the kitchen), there are several consumers (and it will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave margin of "strength" of the cable, that is, select the desired cross section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances always specified by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.

In order not to bother with calculations, follow one simple rule. - For outlet lines, use copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm., for all lighting 1.5 sq. mm, and for hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. mm - and everything will be fine with you!

Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in watts.

Simplified power formula

The cable must be three-core (phase, zero, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (grounded), because everything modern appliances have an additional protective output, and protective automation works only with the use of grounding .

To replace the wiring, it is best to use the VVG-ng cable. Of course, you can use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft must be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller strobes, and it is possible to push the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm)

Uncrimped wire with sleeve

Always take only cable according to GOST! For example, an excellent cable is Gost's VVG ng. This is a very important point in preparing for the wiring replacement! You can save on automation or sockets (you can always change them), but do not save on cable - take a good one.

markup

Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located, the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after repair is 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and put a mark every 7 cm (socket size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.

For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for kindergartens, kindergartens and schools where sockets and switches are installed at a height not less than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially at home, you can do as you like. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.

Preparing for chipping

Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as cable routing under baseboards or boxes.

Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a stretch or suspended ceiling, if they are not planned to be done, then the ceiling is to be shredded. And since, a monolith of ceilings shuffling is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster on the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We highly do not recommend chasing the ceiling on our own, since it is necessary to know the technology of proper chasing so that later the whole house does not collapse someday.

In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and a new one is pulled in its place.

With a crown for concrete at 70mm or 68mm (nozzle on a puncher), holes for socket boxes are drilled. With a wall chaser or grinder, strobes are cut for laying the cable. The grooves in the walls must be strictly vertical rather than horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the shield are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.

If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugations is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed, the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation according to GOST! Save on corrugation, if you do not have drywall and wood (or other flammable materials) - then corrugation is not needed!

Noisy works

When you start pounding walls, don't forget about the law. Make noise with a perforator apartment buildings possible only in strict certain time, each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan it is necessary to obtain the permission of the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they begin to hammer in response. It is better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.

Shtroblenie

Before you start chasing, it is highly desirable that the walls and ceilings are plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since all socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw a monolith.

Check in advance the places where you will ditch, so as not to hurt communications, old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't figure out where old wiring, call an electrician, or just disable it in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For the convenience of work, make yourself a temporary carrying (extension cord).

The hole for the sockets is grooved to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, after which, with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown, drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference. After that, chasing with a crown will go much faster, you can say - it will go like clockwork. When hitting the rebar, it is best to use another crown, in extreme cases, you can knock it down with a spatula. It is better to use a puncher more help (do not forget about the neighbors and the police).

Working with a wall chaser or grinder

Strobe for cable laying, go from the socket to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the strobe down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these cases, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder, with diamond disc by stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, put on a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to isolate dust from entering adjacent rooms.

Cabling

It is not difficult to lay the cable on the floor, it is enough to grab it to the floor in any way so that it does not pop up when the screed is made. Usually the cable is laid along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall), so that later you know exactly where the cable goes.

It is worth noting that it is better not to lay the cable under the doorways! For cable laying on the floor, it is better to make through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a chance of damaging the cable when installing interior thresholds.

Laying the cable in the strobe is also not particularly difficult. You can fix the cable in the strobe using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (gypsum plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use it for mounting socket boxes. But before smearing them with strobes, it is necessary to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.

If the cable is securely fixed in the strobe and does not stick out anywhere, the strobes can be covered with ordinary plaster mix, this will save a lot of time.

About junction boxes

Soldering (or junction boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.

Today professional electricians will tell you that it is not necessary to install junction boxes in modern apartments! They can play a cruel joke with your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing off, neighbors flooded, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It is easy to refuse junction boxes - do all the switching in the sockets! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Usually, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is necessary to branch the outlet lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.

Electrical panel installation

Most a budget option- this is the installation of all circuit breakers in the stairwell in a common shield, where your old circuit breakers and counter are already standing. To do this, it is necessary to bring all the cables to the access shield. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.

Built-in or overhead shield, it's up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetic, the invoice is easier to mount. All lines from the apartment go to the shield, and already one thick cable goes from it to the access shield, the cross section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example, VVG 3 * 6.

Installation of circuit breakers

Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable section. According to the rules, it is impossible to insert more than two lines into one machine, if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.

Today, there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. Most necessary condition- this is the installation of circuit breakers for protection against overloads and short circuit currents (ordinary single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional device protective shutdown- UZO (protection against current leakage).

RCDs are best installed on the zone line heightened danger: wet rooms, children's rooms. It is not necessary to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! One common RCD is installed only with the goal of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a malfunction in case of a leak, + the whole apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, on lighting or street lines, RCDs are not installed.

Installation additional species protection, this is already a luxury: a thermal relay (protection against cable heating), lightning protection, a stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), a fire alarm, etc.

Shield Assembly

One of the most crucial moments is the assembly of the shield. If you use a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be of any color except blue and yellow), all the rest (zero N Blue colour, ground PEN yellow-green) are inserted into their tires. When using RCD or difavtomatov (automatic and RCD "in one bottle"), neutral wire inserted into its groove (marking N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers from wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.

For all connections in the shield, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and zeros by automatic machines with a cable with a section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fall into the clamp, or it is bad to hold on to it.

Final installation. Sockets and switches

Sockets and switches are installed last, after clean finish(painting or wallpapering). The most important rule good installation is a good contact!

Most of the outlets in your apartment are walk-through, that is, a cable goes through them with a loop to each subsequent outlet. In order to avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example, IEK), they have a very bad (to put it mildly) clamp, and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, stretch all the connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumped out of the clamp, then you clamped it badly or the clamp turned out to be defective.

Among professionals, it is believed that LeGrande products and Schneider have the best clamps in sockets.

In order for the frames to lie evenly and tightly, install a group of sockets or switches in level, butt-to-butt, and screw them to the sockets with small self-tapping screws from two opposite sides close to the wall. Then screw the spacers inside the outlet (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or self-tapping screws!

Track the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use too long self-tapping screws, which can touch the wires.

At each stage of the repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after final finish it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finish.

All installation and replacement work old wiring regardless of where they will be produced, in an apartment or a private house, in a country house or in a garage, they need a competent and thoughtful approach. It is necessary to start this complex process with the preparation of a power supply project, based on a thorough consideration of the plan for arranging all the electrical installations of the home. The project can be drawn up in the old fashioned way on paper using colored markers, or done on a computer using a simple graphics program. In this article, we will take a step-by-step look at how the wiring diagram is drawn up in an apartment and a private house.

Determine the location of furniture and appliances

Before drawing up a diagram, it will be important to take into account the layout of the premises, the planned arrangement of furniture and the placement of stationary electrical appliances. The installation locations of electrical fittings in the room should be chosen so that they are not crowded with sofas or cabinets and provide comfortable access to turn on / off lighting and electricity consumers. It would be better if the discussion of this complex issue is brought to the family council.

The first step is to make a plan of the premises indicating window and door openings. In order to make it easier in the future to calculate the required amount of cable and wire, it is better to draw up a plan on a scale in compliance with the dimensions. The process of designing a wiring diagram will be considered using an example one-room apartment. It is better to number the name of the premises on the plan and separately indicate the transcript.

Where: 1 - entrance hall, 2 - bathroom, 3 - kitchen, 4 - hall.

Optimal outlet locations

After that, it is necessary to put on the diagram the places where it is planned to place furniture and stationary electrical appliances. If household appliances are highlighted in red, this will greatly simplify the work on further drawing up a wiring diagram. All items of electrical engineering are recommended to be numbered and fixed in decryption: 1 - washing machine, 2 - dishwasher, 3 - electric stove, 4 - acoustic center, 5 - TV, 6 - music center, 7 - personal computer.

Drawing up a plan for the location of furniture and appliances will determine the points optimal installation sockets. Layout of outlets in the apartment:

Read more about what to look for and how to place sockets in the kitchen and bathroom in the articles:

To design a wiring diagram, we recommend using special programs. We have provided the best in a separate article!

Lighting scheme

AT classic version ceiling lights should be located in the center of the room, the location of which is at the intersection of lines passing through the middle of the length and width of the room. In the hallway, made in the form of the letter G, 2 lamps are installed.

When drawing on the layout of the switches, it must be taken into account that the door can open inward or outward, be of right or left execution. Opened door should not interfere with free access to it. Switches are usually located inside the rooms. Exceptions are rooms with a high moisture content, which include laundries, baths, bathrooms. This is done in order to ensure the electrical safety and safety of the switching equipment.

This wiring plan shows the bathroom light switch outside.

Routes for laying cables and wires

After determining the installation location of fixtures, switches and sockets, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of electrical wiring routes, this design phase is the main part of the work. The wiring diagram and installation is greatly simplified if suspended ceilings are equipped in your house or apartment. In this case, the wires are laid in corrugated pipes and attached to the draft ceiling.

In order to save wire, wiring routes are selected according to the shortest distance. A wire is laid in the strobes under the plaster, connecting the junction boxes with switches and sockets. With the standard arrangement of ceilings, the electrical wiring is laid in pre-punched strobes along the walls of the room. To connect lighting fixtures the wire is passed through the channels of the ceiling. Gasket example cable line, in accordance with existing standards, is provided in the diagram:

Drawing up a plan for the route of electrical wiring must begin from the farthest point electrical network. In this case, it will be a double outlet in the hall, it must be connected to a junction box, which is advisable to install at the entrance to the room. Then the route of the wire connecting the second outlet is applied to the circuit.

The lighting network will consist of wires, the first of which runs from the box to the switch, the second connected to ceiling lamp, laid in the channel of the floor slab. Junction box in the hall receives power supply via two wires from the switchboard installed in the hallway. It is also necessary to provide, if possible. In this case, the wiring will be three-core.

According to this principle, it is necessary to draw up a wiring diagram for the remaining rooms. To complete the picture, we can assume that the kitchen is mounted suspended ceiling. In this case, the electrical wiring will be laid in the corrugated pipes, the dowel fixed with nails to concrete slab overlap, its laying routes will be selected taking into account the shortest distance. Descents to electrical fittings will be made under plaster.

It should not be forgotten that the power supply of the premises is carried out by at least two groups of wires, one of which provides power to the power network, the other is intended for the lighting network. More details about that, we talked about in a separate article.