We build ventilation ducts in the house from bricks and aerated concrete. Optimal ventilation of aerated concrete house Ventshakhty from aerated concrete

From the author: hello dear readers! On many construction forums country houses, the debate about whether ventilation is needed in a house made of aerated concrete does not subside. Opponents of the system argue that this material itself is "breathable" - which means that air exchange occurs naturally right through the walls.

Perhaps we will immediately destroy this myth. At the very least, there is a substitution of concepts here. "Breathable" is the name given to an appropriate material for its quality that has little to do with air exchange.

Basically, it is about moisture absorption. Such properties are possessed, for example, by brick and some types of concrete. When the room is too humid, the walls take in some of the water from the air and hold it. When, on the contrary, the house is too dry, moisture is given back. As you can see, there is no question of breathing as such.

This is the first thing. And secondly, the inside of the walls is usually covered with decoration. And the decorative material does not always allow moisture to pass through itself. In general, let's forget about the so-called breathing properties and focus on the fact that a house made of aerated concrete is a residential building, which means that it needs air exchange.

Arrangement options

Almost any ventilation system is based on the laying of special ducts. The exits from them are located in rooms where a high level of humidity is especially often observed: in the kitchen, in the bathroom, etc.

The principle of operation of natural ventilation has already been described on our website more than once, so we will outline it briefly. Fresh cold air, entering the house, pushes up the already heated one, the latter is sucked into the ventilation duct and goes out to the roof. This approach has its drawbacks, but we'll talk about that below. In any case, the arrangement of ventilation ducts is necessary.

In most houses, they are laid in such a way that their walls become the same material from which the walls of the building were erected. But aerated concrete has some features that require a different approach. This material is called cellular for a reason. In its structure, there are many pores filled with air.

Due to this, the material has a low thermal conductivity and other remarkable qualities. But it cannot boast of its density, and therefore the walls of the canal cannot be made of it in any way - it will turn out to be an absolutely impermeable structure, and the exhaust air will spread anywhere, but not along the desired route.

Therefore, a different method must be applied to the arrangement of passages for the movement of air masses. There are three options that can be used in this case:

install a box made of galvanized steel into the channel;
lay a plastic pipe as an air duct;
lay out the channel with ceramic bricks.

Let's take a closer look.

Plastic and steel duct routing

Plastic and steel channels look slightly different, but the essence is the same. You simply arrange a route for air, bounded by dense, smooth walls. Thus, air masses will freely escape to the roof, without harming the surrounding material from which the walls are made.

As for the placement of channels, it is worth talking about it separately. The system is as follows: a separate air duct is laid from the kitchen, bathroom, toilet and similar premises. Further, all these channels are combined in the attic, and from there they go out in one pipe to the roof of the house.

It is important to take into account that channels are not laid in the external - that is, load-bearing - walls. This applies to houses made of aerated concrete. If you neglect this point, then you will greatly reduce the strength of the walls, increase their thermal conductivity, you can provoke the formation of condensation, etc. In general, it will not be good. Therefore, the duct should only be laid in internal walls and partitions.

The installation procedure itself is as follows. WITH aerated concrete blocks channels of the required diameter or section are cut, a structure is inserted into them, which will serve as an air duct. The whole thing is held together with cement mortar.

In addition, it is necessary to additionally work with the pipes located in the attic, if it is not heated. During the cold season, a phenomenon called the dew point can occur. Warm humid air will flow inside the pipe. And outside will be affected by the cold. As a result, condensation will form on the inner walls of the duct.

This situation can lead to disastrous consequences, since practically no building material can withstand prolonged exposure to liquid. In addition, mold may begin to form - she is very fond of conditions of constantly high humidity. And this will already lead, at least, to a musty smell from the ventilation. And for health, such a neighborhood is definitely not useful.

So, to prevent this from happening, the pipes must be insulated from the outside. To do this, they can be wrapped in any suitable material... Very often mineral wool is used as insulation. There is no doubt, it has simply gorgeous characteristics. But the picture is spoiled by the fact that this material absolutely does not tolerate exposure to moisture. When wet mineral wool loses most of its insulating properties. At the same time, you will not wait for drying from it.

Thus, it is possible to wrap air ducts only if you place an absolutely sealed layer of some waterproof material on top of it. Then you will get high-quality and viable insulation. If this is not possible, then it is better to use other materials. Fortunately, the modern construction market offers options for every taste, budget and approach to installation.

Laying of channels with bricks

We will not describe the masonry process itself here, it is carried out in a standard way: brick, mortar, brick again, and so on. But there are several very important requirements that must be observed if you decide to lay out the air ducts with ceramic blocks:

only classic ceramic red bricks can be used. Silicate ones are not suitable for this purpose for two reasons. Firstly, they are too fragile, so they will constantly crumble. In this case, there is no need to talk about strength. Secondly, they do not tolerate temperature conditions close to that inherent in the ventilation duct;
bricks must be solid. If for some reason you still decide to use hollow, then the holes in them must be filled with masonry mortar so that there are no voids left in the block;
masonry is done in a single-row method;
channels must be tied with each other, while the separator is half a brick;
the brick channel must be laid so as to exclude its contact with wooden building elements... Otherwise, the wood will collapse under the influence of the air temperature in the duct;
the masonry must be done so that the inner surface of the duct is perfectly smooth. By the way, the same requirement is observed when erecting a stove chimney. The fact is that the presence of various protrusions significantly reduces the intensity of air circulation. Very often, a certain amount of solution crawls out of the seams and hardens, forming the very same obstacles. Therefore, in the process of masonry, excess masonry composition must be immediately cleaned off, and then carefully level the surface with a trowel. After drying, all seams are rubbed, this must be done after laying out every two or three brick rows. Grouting is done by hand, in a circular motion.

Before deciding to lay out the duct with a brick, it is important to take into account that no mechanical devices can be put into it.

Forced system

After arranging the air ducts, it is time to think about how the air circulation will be carried out. In principle, if the house is small, then natural ventilation may be sufficient. Exhaust air will leave through the made ones, and fresh air will come through windows and doors.

But for relatively large buildings, this approach is not the best solution... The following factors should be considered:

system power. If the room is large, then the entire volume of air simply will not have time to leave through the exhaust ducts. Accordingly, all waste products in it will accumulate in the house;
dependence of air exchange on external factors. For example, if it is hot outside, hot air entering the house will in no way provoke the already spent air masses to rise up. If in a small house you can at least arrange a draft and thus blow out everything unnecessary, then with a large one this operation is rather difficult.

At the same time, if the dwelling is not provided with normal air exchange, then the result will be stuffiness and bad smell, and mold. That is why it is recommended to equip a forced ventilation system. It can be exhaust, supply, but the best option is a combination of these varieties.

Exhaust devices

The equipment responsible for the removal of air from the premises is connected to the same ventilation ducts, which were mentioned above. However, there is also a device that can be positioned autonomously by laying it through the wall. This is an exhaust valve. It is usually installed in rooms where there are no ventilation holes, but there is a need for a constant outflow of air - for example, in workshops, from where it is necessary to remove various odors.

Appliances such as a cooker hood and a wall-mounted axial fan are much more common. The first, in accordance with the name, is installed in the kitchen. As a rule, the device is placed directly above the stove. However, options are also possible when the hood is hung in the middle of the kitchen - such varieties are called island.

In general, there are many different modifications of the kitchen exhaust equipment... Wall-mounted and built-in, with and without lighting, made of plastic, of stainless steel, tempered glass ... You can choose equipment for every taste and budget. But one of critical factors is the power. It is on her that you should focus, and only then evaluate the appearance of the device.

You can find the power indicator in the accompanying documentation. The volume of the room for which the hood is designed is usually indicated there. The number is only approximate, but it is quite enough.

Installation of the hood is not so difficult. The device itself is fixed in a designated place. Wall mounted, respectively, on the wall. Built-in replaces the bottom of one of the kitchen cabinets. The island is mounted on the ceiling anywhere in the kitchen (but keep in mind that you will have to somehow mask the air duct coming from it).

After installation, the hood is connected to the ventilation duct using a pipe. The latter can be plastic or corrugated. Plastic is stronger and lasts a long time, and the corrugation is more convenient to install, so choose based on your preferences. In conclusion exhaust device connects to the mains.

As for the wall axial fan, then the situation with him is even simpler. The device is usually placed in the bathroom and toilet. It is a housing with a cylinder with blades inside. The whole thing is covered with a front grill. Installation is carried out using ordinary waterproof glue or liquid nails. Apply an adhesive composition to the frame, press it against the wall, wait for it to dry, connect it to the network. That's all.

Supply devices

As for the air flow, this is also worth taking care of. Permanent ventilation with open windows- it's not very convenient. And sometimes it is dangerous if there are pets or small children. When closed, plastic double-glazed windows will not allow a single molecule to pass through. fresh air.

Therefore, the way out is to install a supply valve. It is installed in the gap between the window and the radiator underneath. In principle, this arrangement is not a requirement. But with this approach, the air will be heated immediately, entering the room. Therefore, the rooms will not be cold.

The most simple modification of the supply valve is an air duct protected on both sides by grilles: protective and decorative. A filter is placed inside the pipe, which does not allow dust and insects into the house. A fan is also located there, due to which air is pumped into the room.

To install, it is not at all necessary to call the wizard. Drill through the wall (naturally, we are talking about the outside, so that there is contact with the street). Install the air duct in the hole, and in it the filter and fan. Next, fix the grates in the places provided for this. Finally, the device is connected to the network and tested.

Dear readers, now you know how to make high-quality ventilation in a private house with your own hands. Regardless of what your home is built of - aerated concrete, brick, wood, etc. - you can and should take care of the air exchange in it. Good luck!

Reliable and budget friendly. But will a building built in a short time be comfortable for living? Aerated concrete has powerful absorption properties, so it quickly absorbs moisture. Its excess in residential premises reduces the heat-saving properties of the walls and causes deformation of the finishing layer. Properly organized ventilation will provide a favorable atmosphere for human life and the normal functioning of a cottage made of aerated concrete. This system channels will provide air circulation in the house, preventing it from stagnating in the premises.

Features of air exchange in a gas block house

If in brick houses ventilation is organized by the construction of special channels in the walls, then aerated concrete buildings are difficult in this regard. The material of their construction has a high gas permeability, which violates the tightness of the air ducts. This problem can be solved by:

Installation of a duct-box made of galvanized steel. It can be insulated to avoid condensation and sheathed with small-sized aerated concrete blocks.
Layout of the ventilation duct and adjacent internal walls with bricks.
Sleeving with a plastic ventilation duct.

Air exchange system device

In order for the ventilation in the aerated concrete house to comply with the current sanitary standards, a complex of natural and forced systems is used. Air ducts are constructed from galvanized, plastic and asbestos-cement pipes and are pulled into each room. Exhaust ducts outgoing from the toilet, kitchens are combined at the attic level, insulated and sealed at the exit points to the roof.

For laying the natural ventilation system, pipes with a cross section of 15 cm are used, for forced ventilation - 13 cm. In aerated concrete blocks, holes are cut with a small gap (5 mm on each side), in which the air ducts are fixed with a solution. The openings for the pipe in the ceilings and partitions are additionally waterproofed.

Attention: ventilation ducts in the house made of gas blocks are not laid in the external load-bearing walls - this is fraught with a decrease in their heat-saving properties, the formation of condensation. Ventilation is arranged in a separate shaft, or along the inner walls and partitions. This allows you to organize air exchange even in a built cottage.

The most effective way of laying, built from aerated concrete blocks, is by means of a sleeve with a plastic ventilation duct. For this, pipes are used, the cross-sectional area of which is 150 cm 2. The vent is attached to the starting block and the system is wired from it. With further laying, holes of the appropriate size are cut out in the blocks, into which the air ducts are laid, making their docking.

Note: the advantage of plastic ventilation ducts is that they practically do not form condensation.

Additional actions

Along with the natural ventilation of the walls and roof of the house made of aerated concrete blocks, it is worth taking care of the supply, cooling / heating of fresh air. Modern ventilation systems of the recuperative type can reduce the heat loss of the structure by 20-30%. This allows you to completely cover the heat leakage caused by the air channels of the aerated concrete blocks.

The fact that a house made of aerated concrete can do without ventilation is nothing more than a myth. The porous structure of the blocks will not cope with the removal of moisture accumulated in the premises, which will lead to the destruction of the finish and a decrease in the operational properties of the dwelling. A gas block house needs high-quality ventilation, which makes it possible to create a comfortable environment for people to live.

It is necessary to approach the organization of ventilation in aerated concrete from the position that this building material has low strength and high hygroscopicity. Therefore, it is very important to comply with all the norms of correct construction. ventilation system... What are the three main construction options used for:

With galvanized iron box insertion.
With the installation of metal or plastic pipes.
By constructing a ventilation duct using brickwork.

In the aerated concrete itself, build a ventilation mine without additional protective structures forbidden. Because it quickly absorbs moisture, losing its already low strength characteristics.

Why do you need ventilation in the house

So, a house built from gas blocks is a budget option, pre-fabricated and with good thermal insulation characteristics... But, as mentioned above, this material has high hygroscopicity, that is, it quickly absorbs moisture. And even if the walls of the house were finished from the inside plaster mortars, this does not mean that this is one hundred percent protection against negative impact moisture. It penetrates the wall and causes delamination finishing materials from the base.

At the same time, penetrating into the body of aerated concrete blocks, wet vapors reduce them bearing capacity... Therefore, ventilation is required in such a house. It should work well with precise air exchange rates for each room.

And, of course, the ventilation system of a house made of aerated concrete is a network that will change the indoor air to fresh air from the street, remove unpleasant odors.

Kinds

In principle, any type of ventilation system can be used in a gas silicate block house. And this ventilation is natural or forced. They differ from each other by the presence (in the second) of fans, which form the inflow and exhaust of air masses.

Natural

Air exchange with natural ventilation is carried out by the natural movement of the air flow due to the temperature difference outside and inside the house. That is, there is a physical upward movement of warm air. That is why ventilation ducts are installed in such a way that their inlets are located as high as possible, closer to the ceiling.

At the same time, earlier the flow of air took place through leaks, cracks and gaps in wooden windows and entrance doors. Today, using sealed window and door designs such a possibility simply ceased to exist. Therefore, manufacturers of ventilation systems began to offer all kinds of devices, with the help of which it became possible to organize a natural flow of air.

Air valves installed in the walls of the house. The best option for many buildings, including aerated concrete.
Air valves installed in window constructions PVC models. There are several varieties from the traditional slotted to the new handle for opening the sash of the window. Depending on the room in a house made of aerated concrete blocks, one of the types is used, taking into account air exchange. For example, handle valves have a small hole area, which does not allow them to be used in large rooms... Most often they come as an auxiliary option, in addition to the wall model.

It is very important that natural ventilation will work only if the ventilation duct is clean and free of debris. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that his mine is always clean. Today, more and more often they move away from ventilation shafts located inside walls or in the form of boxes that go out vertical pipe outside the roof. As practice shows, no one monitors such channels, so over time they begin to work ineffectively.

Today, an option is used with the construction of holes in aerated concrete walls for both air flow and air extraction. That is, air valves are installed in each room: one at the top under the ceiling through which the outflow of air masses will be made, the second at the bottom - through it, an inflow of fresh air will be produced. This option makes it possible to avoid the construction of a ventilation duct inside the walls, which will ensure their guaranteed strength.

Forced

Forced ventilation in aerated concrete house is, in fact, the same scheme as in the natural one, only a fan is installed in it, which ensures the most efficient removal of air from the premises. There are three options for organizing ventilation:

Supply air - this is when the fan is installed on the supply channel. Not a bad option, but here it must be borne in mind that the fan works with a certain discharge, which causes the formation of air movement at a low speed. Therefore, it is very important to find the right place for installing the fan or place it so that the air flow does not move perpendicular to the wall, but along it. Therefore, such valves with fans are fitted with caps from the inside of the premises. This hood with slots along the wall organizes the flow along the wall planes.
Exhaust is the most common scheme. In fact, this is a fan that runs on the hood. It is installed in a wall or attached to the plane of the wall in which a through hole is made. In the first case, ducted models of fans are used - this is a pipe in which the fan is installed. From the outside and inside, it is closed with a decorative grill. In the second case, it is a wall model installed from the side of the room. It is attached to the wall in the place where the through hole is made. The main requirement for fans of this type is a precisely matched device in terms of performance, which must comply with the air exchange rate. For example, a fan with a capacity of 60 m3 / h must be installed in the kitchen, 25 in the bathroom, 30 in living rooms.
Supply and exhaust. This is when fans are installed on both the supply and the extract. Today, manufacturers offer whole blocks of this type of equipment, which are assembled in the attic in the form of air ducts in the rooms, entering through the ceiling, and a fan installation. Such units are additionally equipped with filters, recuperators, air heaters. For small houses from aerated concrete monoblocks of small sizes are offered.

Mixed system

Under this name, ventilation is used, which is divided into rooms. That is, in one the natural scheme works, in the other one of the compulsory ones. Most often, a natural air exchange pattern is established in living quarters, in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, closet and boiler room - forced. At the same time, a house hood is more often used in these rooms with the installation of supply ducts.

Pay attention to the fact that kitchen hood... In houses made of aerated concrete, it is better to install an exhaust model with the removal of polluted air through a wall or window to the street. This is an additional unit that will increase air exchange inside the house and specifically in the kitchen. Installation of a recirculation model is not recommended.

Standards

As for the standards, here, as already mentioned above, it is necessary to be based on the requirements of sanitary standards. And they are based on the exchange of air in one hour. The norms are different in each room. Some of them have already been said and indicated in numerical terms.

The main thing is that in order to make ventilation in a house made of aerated concrete efficiently, it is necessary to strictly observe these standard indicators. With fans it is easier, knowing their performance, you can easily select a device for the standard. Natural ventilation is more difficult, because it is just two holes, the cross-sectional size of which will determine the volume of exhaust air.

For example, a pipe with a diameter of 150 mm creates an air exchange of 30 m³ / hour. That is, for a bathroom, toilet and living room, one such hole will be sufficient for the exchange of air mass to comply with the standard. But it should be borne in mind that the hood depends not only on the channel cross-sectional area, but also on other factors. For example, from the strength of the wind outside, the temperature inside the house and outside, from how much the chimney was raised above the roof of the building. And all this must be taken into account when creating a ventilation system.

Optimal ventilation system for aerated concrete house

We must start again with a reminder that gas silicate blocks are highly hygroscopic. This means that the best option for constructing a ventilation system in such a house is the installation of vertical channels and shafts. Let it not be easy to install the ventilation duct, let it take a lot of time and money, but perfect option exactly this one.

Installation air valves into the walls gas silicate house- this is a high probability, firstly, to reduce the bearing capacity of the wall, and secondly, it becomes possible for moisture to penetrate into the body of gas blocks when warm air from rooms comes into contact with cold air on the street. That is, the appearance of condensation is a real possibility. And this is again moisture that destroys aerated concrete.

Therefore, an additional three options are offered to help avoid trouble.

Use only a supply system with an outlet through central risers.
Use materials for insulating air exhaust valves. By the way, many manufacturers do this today. Their models use a cylindrical shape thermal insulation material which is inserted inside the valve. It also protects the wall from condensation.
Use only window structures as air inlets.

By the way, the supply ventilation system showed itself much better in this situation than the exhaust ventilation system. But many craftsmen have found their way out of a difficult situation. For example, to install a valve with a diameter of 100 mm, a hole with a diameter of 130-150 mm was made in the wall. the valve was installed in the wall, and the gap between it and the wall was filled with polyurethane foam. The latter is polyurethane foam with high thermal insulation characteristics.

Another option that is well suited for aerated concrete houses is a system with recuperation or with an air heater for incoming air. That is, cold air, before entering the interior and passing through the wall, gains heat, which by itself excludes the formation of condensation. However, it should be noted that such ventilation systems are very expensive, and besides, they are energy-intensive, so you will have to pay your electricity bills all the time.

Calculation and design

Let's see how you can calculate the ventilation system using an example one-storey house from gas blocks. We will take into account what is used in the house natural air exchange where the hood is installed in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. And the inflow is made after three living rooms... It turns out that for the calculation it is necessary to take into account either the supply volume, taking into account the standard, or the exhaust volume. Therefore, both indicators are first calculated, and the larger one is selected from them.

The house has three living rooms with with total area 100 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m. Air exchange in them is 30 m³ / hour according to the norms. That is, total value- 90 m³ / hour.
Now there are three rooms from which the hood comes: a kitchen - 60 m³ / hour, a bathroom and a toilet 25 each. That is, the total air outflow will be 110 m³ / hour.

Of the two values, the larger one is 110. This means that we take it for the calculation. Now we need to turn to the tabular value, which is based on two indicators: the height of the hood, let it be equal, taking into account the height of the roof, 4 m, and the temperature inside the rooms - + 20C. For these two values, a channel with an area of 204 cm² (0.2 m²) is suitable, which allows 46 m³ of air mass to pass through itself in one hour.

Now you can find out how many ventilation ducts of this size are required for an air outflow of 110 m³. To do this, you need to carry out one mathematical action: 110/46 = 2.4, round up, we get "3". This is the number of required ventilation ducts installed: one in the kitchen, the second in the bathroom, and the third in the toilet.

DIY ventilation device

Ventilation system installation aerated concrete house Is not an easy process. If you are not a builder, then you cannot master it with your own hands. The thing is that the ventilation duct is assembled in place with the wall. More often it is raised inside the wall by installing a box or pipe.

There is an option for assembling a ventilation system that is formed outside structural elements buildings. To do this, you will have to assemble a modular system in the attic with the installation of a fan and air duct routing. In principle, there is nothing complicated in the assembly. It will not be easy to make holes in the ceilings, insert pipes there. For this, a perforator with a diamond crown is used. And here again, if you are not a builder, then it is better not to do it yourself.

Installing the supply valve

The easiest option is. Gas blocks - the material is soft and porous, so it will not be difficult to drill holes in them. This can be done not only with a crown, but also with an ordinary drill, making several small-diameter holes in the wall, located in a circle that defines the contours of the future through hole.

In principle, a natural ventilation system in a house made of aerated concrete can be assembled from air ducts with their output outside the building. How to do it right.

Installation of ventilation ducts

How is the process of assembling ventilation ducts in a house made of aerated concrete with your own hands?

First of all, the installation diagram of the air ducts is determined. If this is one system, then the line will cover all office premises with one duct running under the ceiling in a horizontal direction.
The cross-section of the duct is determined based on the calculation of the volume of the extracted air.
According to the scheme, the number of fittings and straight sections is calculated, with the designation of the length of the latter for each section.
The necessary materials are purchased, taking into account the fasteners.
It is better to start assembly from the side of the outermost room.
You will have to make holes for the diameter of the duct in each wall separating the rooms from each other.
The assembly is carried out on clamps, if they are metal air ducts, or on couplings, if they are plastic.
The outlet is usually led out through the kitchen, or rather through the wall adjacent to the street.
In all rooms, ventilation windows are made in the air duct, which are closed with grilles.

Exhaust fan assembly

If this is a duct model, then it is simply inserted into the wall through the hole that is made for the hood. If it is a wall model, then it is attached to the wall from the inside of the room. In the bathrooms, it is the last option that is used. The fan will work correctly if it is aligned exactly horizontally, meaning its shaft with the impeller.

Popular bugs

There are a lot of errors that may be present in the construction of the ventilation system of a house made of gas blocks.

You cannot make ventilation in the load-bearing wall, this will weaken its strength.
In the boiler room, it is necessary to immediately install both the supply valve and the exhaust valve.
If the room is separated from the room where the ventilation duct is installed by two doors, it is imperative to install both a supply and an exhaust valve.
A small section of the mine is installed, which cannot provide air exchange, calculated according to the standards of sanitary requirements. The minimum channel section is 0.016 m², which corresponds to a pipe diameter of 150 mm.

Natural ventilation itself is extremely simple in principle. Compressors are not needed here, polluted air goes out on its own, being replaced by clean air. This is due to the difference in pressure and temperature. If built correctly, the system works continuously and there is always fresh air and comfort in the house.

Of course, the room can be easily ventilated manually, using windows and vents. But this is not always acceptable, say in winter, and drafts have not been useful to anyone yet. And in other cases, ventilation is completely impossible, for example, in a bathroom, where there is often no window at all. Another disadvantage is the frequency. Ideally, air should always circulate in the room, which cannot be achieved with vents. Air conditioning does not solve the problem either. Even if there are two of them, they are not able to drive air throughout the house and replace it with clean outdoor air. In any case, you will have to make an effort and build a natural ventilation system. And the air conditioner is designed to solve completely different problems.

Primary requirements

So, private air exchange system must meet the following basic requirements:

The system should not significantly affect the air temperature in the room, especially in the winter season;

There should be a continuous full-fledged exchange of air between rooms with the street, and not with each other;

A good system should provide clean air all rooms;

Accelerated air exchange in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet is especially important;

Complete absence of drafts.

Thus, not just an exchange between rooms in the house is needed, but the replacement of polluted air with fresh air in each room. It is very problematic to create full-fledged ventilation in finished housing, so it is better to do all the work at the stage of wall construction. If you decide to make a major overhaul of your home, then right now you can build a high-quality air exchanger.

Passive house ventilation

Passive houses do not require heating! They are heated by the heat emitted by residents and household appliances, so each kilocalorie of heat must be stored and used rationally. Equipment that is successfully used for ventilation of brick houses is unacceptable here. Cold air currents should not be allowed inside, just as the loss of precious heat is unacceptable.

air movement in a passive house

Therefore, ideally sealed passive houses are equipped with special supply and exhaust ventilation units With. Energy efficient counterflow heat exchangers and fans with EC motors have been developed for passive houses. Such equipment returns up to 95% of the heat from the exhaust air and allows you to spend an average of 5 kilowatt / hour on heating per 1 sq. square meter of the house per year. One of the most important requirements for the ventilation of a passive house is the very quiet operation of the equipment.

Ground heat exchangers (heat pumps) are a good addition to the energy efficient ventilation of a passive house. Devices receive heat directly from earth or water. The air that has passed through the underground heat exchanger, even in winter, has a temperature of at least 17 degrees. In summer, the hot outside air is cooled in the same way. Therefore, in passive houses there is always a comfortable temperature.

Learn more about what an energy efficient home is and how to build one in the video:

Additional actions

Ventilation for a foam block house types of working schemes

Mixed ventilation is shown in a large foam house.

For any home, an important point is insulation. This factor is also important for ventilation. Ventilation can be divided into three main areas:

natural;
forced;
mixed.

In the first case, the circulation of air flows is carried out due to the difference in pressure outside and inside the house. Air can flow through windows, vents, doors, window valves... The exhaust air is removed through the ventilation shaft.

Such ventilation does not require large financial costs, does not depend on electricity. The only negative is the dependence on weather conditions. V summer time stagnation of "exhaust air" will be formed due to the lack of adequate draft.

Ventilation ducts in walls made of aerated concrete blocks engineering standards

The ventilation pipe must be insulated

In houses built of aerated concrete, special attention is paid to the construction of a ventilation duct. The ability of this building material to absorb moisture, gases, its fragility and inability to withstand high temperatures must be taken into account.

Therefore, ventilation ducts are performed in other ways:

laying out the channel itself and the adjacent brick wall;
sleeving with plastic, steel or asbestos-cement pipes;
installation of a galvanized box, which is sheathed with aerated concrete blocks.

Ventilation ducts are brought out to the roof at a certain height. Violation of the location of the pipe is fraught with poor traction or even its "overturning". So, the channel brought out at a distance of 1.5 m from the ridge should exceed it by 500 mm. If it is located 3 meters from the ridge - flush with it in height, more than 3 meters - not lower than an angle equal to 10 ° between the ridge and the upper edge of the pipe.

Important! It is categorically impossible to arrange a "work of art" from the ventilation duct and decorate it with devices that have nothing to do with the ventilation system. The end of the pipe can be an umbrella or a deflector, which will improve the performance of the natural exhaust.

General requirements for good chimneys

Chimneys with a certain power for boilers, stoves or fireplaces different sections channels. These sections must be calculated correctly and accurately. If the channel is too narrow, the smoke will not have time to be removed, the draft will be poor, and the heater will smoke. The type of material is often decisive, for example, chimney pipes in aerated concrete wall require more reliable thermal insulation than street pipes, but less than pipes passing through wood.

The round shape of the chimney is preferable, in this there are no eddies that cause poor or reverse draft. At the same time, the installation of any chimney through the wall assumes its optimal height of 5-10 meters. For individual construction, a 10-meter-long pipe is something of a fantasy. But chimneys shorter than 5 meters are quite common, people are not too interested in how to get the chimney out of the stove correctly. At the same time, what height is guaranteed to provide poor traction.

If roof covering is prone to fire, then a spark arrester must be installed on the output boiler or stove chimney in the form of metal mesh with cells of 0.5x0.5 centimeters. Near heater there must be excellent ventilation. Horizontal loungers should not exceed 1 meter (optimally 0.6 meters). Longer horizontal sections impair traction and can quickly become clogged with soot. In any pipeline, especially if it is a single-walled chimney and made of metal, a condensate collector and an opening (or door) for cleaning soot should be provided. It is advisable to avoid angles of 90 degrees, it is better to replace one such angle with two of 45 degrees.

Do-it-yourself ventilation ducts in a house made of aerated concrete brickwork

The construction of ventilation systems for a private house is best trusted by specialists. If you follow building codes and follow the rules of installation and installation, you can arrange the hood yourself. First of all, it is determined which of known methods the exhaust duct will be installed.

The ventilation shaft removes the exhaust air from different rooms

When laying channels with bricks, you need to consider:

Location - in one of the walls of the room, where moisture accumulates especially.
The fewer channels, the better. This issue is solved territorially - the premises of the kitchen, sanitary rooms are in close proximity to each other ("neighboring"). By the way, this requirement applies not only to ventilation, but also to sewerage and water supply systems.
The brick structure should not come into contact with the wooden building elements of the house - the temperature of the channel will gradually destroy the wood.
Used only solid brick... Laying from a facing hollow is also allowed, but with careful filling of the voids with a solution. Silicate, which has the ability to crumble, is not suitable for such work, it does not tolerate temperature regime formed inside the ventilation duct.
The channels are tied together, the dividers are ½ brick.
The brick is laid on a single-row ligation system. When applying the solution for the next row, it is necessary to ensure that the mixture does not get inside the channel.

Important! Ventilation in the load-bearing wall made of aerated concrete, as in other things and in houses made of other materials, is not laid! Is not mandatory requirement, but experts recommend due to the fact that, in general, load-bearing walls are located outside the building - condensation will form on them. ... The inner surface of ducts, ventilation and flue must be as smooth as possible

Therefore, during the laying of bricks, excess mortar is removed from the joints, and the surface is smoothed with a trowel (trowel). Also on inner surface there should be no protrusions or depressions - they impede normal air circulation.

The inner surface of ducts, ventilation and flue ducts, should be as smooth as possible. Therefore, during the laying of bricks, excess mortar is removed from the joints, and the surface is smoothed with a trowel (trowel). Also, there should be no protrusions or depressions on the inner surface - they impede normal air circulation.

Particular attention is paid to the seams, which must be filled with mortar and trowelled, in order to avoid the ingress of combustion products, exhaust air into adjacent channels or rooms of the house. Grouting is done after laying 2-3 rows of bricks

The process is carried out manually, in a reciprocating and circular motion along the inner surface of the structure.

Important! A feature of brick ventilation ducts is that they are not equipped with mechanical devices.

Channels Basis Principle

Channel entrances and exits are covered with decorative easily removable grilles. This will allow regular cleaning of the air ducts, from once to several times a year. The channels themselves are best made of stainless metals to ensure the required durability of the system. The possibility of heating the air will significantly increase the ventilation efficiency. If everything is done correctly, then outwardly the wall with the channel will be no different from the usual ones.

For heating, it is better to install a ventilation duct next to the stove or install a heater. Installing an "umbrella" over the stove solves several problems at once. This is not only the removal of the child and unpleasant odors from the kitchen, but also additional heating of the system, which significantly increases air exchange.

More and more often these days, round plastic channels are used. However, as practice shows, circular section channels dramatically reduces the efficiency of the system. The optimal pipe section is square. Saving is inappropriate here. Therefore, we turn to the tinsmiths to make pipes and collectors of square section. And only the inlet and outlet of air is permissible to carry out pipes of a circular cross-section.

House ventilation from SIP panels

breathable house system made of vulture panels

It is not for nothing that houses made of SIP panels are called “thermoses” for their high thermal insulation. Energy efficiency is achieved due to the absence of cracks, cold bridges and the special qualities of the SIP panels themselves. There is no need to talk about any natural ventilation in such houses. All air exchange is forced. But even here there are more or less costly options for ventilation of a house from SIP panels.

The most inexpensive solution is as follows: exhaust ducts are conducted only into the kitchen and bathrooms. These are two separate channels, they are not combined so that the smell from the toilet does not penetrate into the kitchen and vice versa. Thus, the house will have 2-3 air ducts (depending on the number of bathrooms). Before passing the roof, the ducts are combined together so as not to punch holes in the roof in several places.

At high-quality hood the inflow can be organized by micro-ventilation through windows or supply valves. This method slightly reduces the energy efficiency of the building. Therefore, such houses use ventilation supply units with heated air, which are difficult to assemble with your own hands.

The second option for low-cost ventilation of a house from SIP panels is the installation of breathers. Breathers are compact air handling units for one room. The breather delivers about 100 cubic meters of air to the house per hour. If there are 3-4 people living, at least two units should be correctly installed for ventilation of the house.

Each breather has two exits to the street: for air intake and exhaust. The air is heated by a recuperator or heater. Installation of breathers will cost 2-4 times less than a full-fledged supply exhaust ventilation... But what is the plan of ventilation at home without hoods from the toilet and kitchen.

The most expensive and effective option house ventilation from SIP panels - air handling unit, which serves all the premises of the house. Many owners finished houses such ventilation scares off the need to lay air ducts. Therefore, it is advisable to design it as early as possible.

Where is the best place to place the chimney outlet

It is best if the street chimney runs through the wall from the side of the pediment. If this is not possible, and the sleeve will come out from the side of the roof slope, you will also have to build a support post if the roof overhang is more than 40 centimeters. If the overhang is small, then the pipe can be passed directly through it. With proper fire protection, especially if a chimney is being built through a wall in a wooden house, it will serve as an additional fixer.

Very important correct fastening to the chimney wall from the street side. There are two options for such an attachment:. In the first version, the clamps, clasping the pipe, are rigidly attached to the wall on both sides.
The second option is a standard clamp, which is tightened and then attached to the wall with an anchor rod.

The third attachment element is the lower console, which picks up the pipe and prevents it from collapsing downward. This console has the form of 3-sided metal supports, one side of which is screwed to the wall, and the chimney rests on the other side, and so that the supports do not interfere with opening the door for cleaning. You need two such supports. The option with hairpins is traditionally considered more budgetary.

In the first version, the clamps, clasping the pipe, are rigidly attached to the wall on both sides.
The second option is a standard clamp that is tightened and then attached to the wall with an anchor rod. The third attachment element is the lower console, which picks up the pipe and prevents it from collapsing downward. This console has the form of 3-sided metal supports, one side of which is screwed to the wall, and the chimney rests on the other side, and so that the supports do not interfere with opening the door for cleaning. You need two such supports. The option with hairpins is traditionally considered more budgetary.

Benefits of Wall Passing

Saving space, i.e. useful area;
A chimney through the wall can be built not at the beginning, but at the end, if the budget for building a house is limited;
Installation and passage of any chimney through the wall is easier than building a standard one indoors;
Increased fire safety. When making your stove gas outlet, you must remember that sooner or later, soot can spontaneously ignite in it, and the temperature inside the pipe reaches 1200 degrees. If the chimney is metallic and is located indoors, especially near flammable walls or decorative elements, then a fire will happen with a high degree of probability. Hellfire in a chimney on the street does not threaten such catastrophic consequences;
Indoor brick chimneys eventually begin to leak smoke and carbon monoxide through the seams, and the installation of the chimney through the wall and its connection to the street pipe reliably protects against this;
In case of problems with draft, it is much easier to adjust the external chimney in height, without touching the node of the pipeline passage through the wall and the section to the boiler.

Kinds

Any building requires a private design of the duct system. But there are two main types of systems:

Natural

Forced

A simpler and most affordable option for organizing air circulation.

If you introduce this system into an aerated concrete structure, you can exclude the use of auxiliary equipment: air movement is carried out by natural climatic features external environment.

The parameters of the location of the system, the length and cross-section of pipes depend on the temperature background inside and outside, pressure and wind speed.

This species is suitable for normal climatic conditions, when the temperature does not rise above 45 - 50 degrees Celsius.

Provides for the possibility of ventilation regulation by means of specialized valves.

The hood is capable of changing the air, the number of times in one hour, as it was planned in advance.

Before implementing the system, you need to make preliminary calculations, during which special attention is paid to:

The conditions that should be created in the end.
The size of the room for which the project will be carried out.
The number of people who regularly stay in the house.

If the houses are made of aerated concrete, then such systems are needed that, taking into account the total area and the number of people, can completely change the air about 5 times.

What decorative materials are used to decorate weak areas

Starikovsky expanded clay is rarely used in modern pass-through devices; now, to a greater extent, they use various basalt fillers or various fiber cement slabs. They look like drywall and cut well. This is generally the most best material on the this moment... Fiber cement boards have many commercial names.

Brick is often used, here the rule is simple - the brick is laid from the pipe to its entire length, and this, in principle, is enough for fire protection. The heat is mainly removed with bricks, but a little fiber cement slab around the perimeter still does not hurt.

Porcelain stoneware tiles are great because they can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and can be used for decorative finishing together with fire protection. You can put its analogue - this is a very resistant special heat-resistant tile called terracotta. An excellent tile that is used for thermal protection and at the same time for decorating a room, both on the floor near the stove and on the wall at the chimney outlet.

Air ducts in a brick house

Brickwork ventilation ducts is the most common way of organizing air exchange in private houses. The brick does not collapse under the influence of hot air, pollution does not form on its walls and moisture does not settle, therefore the material is often used to organize chimneys and air ducts.

The ventilation duct is a solid vertical structure extending to the mark above the roof

It is important to organize a constant movement of air masses in the mine; for this, turns and irregularities inside the duct should be avoided.

The bricks for ventilation ducts are resistant to moisture and hot air. A mixture of sand and cement diluted with water is used as a bonding solution.

Dimensions are usually 12 × 15 cm, for brick structures- 12 × 25 cm. The thickness of the walls should not be less than 10 cm. Since the brick ventilation shaft is heavy and creates a strong load, it is installed directly on the foundation of the building.

Stages of work on laying brick ventilation

The process of installing brickwork with your own hands takes place using a template that can be made from plywood or chipboard sheet... This part has a square or rectangular shape, depending on the cross-sectional shape of the future duct. The length of the template is 8-10 bricks in thickness.

Brick ventilation ducts are laid from the corner of the wall. The first duct is created after 2 layers of bricks have been laid. To be guided by the template during operation, it must be installed vertically using a plumb line. A distance of one brick should be left between the two channels.

Bricks must be mounted end-to-end, and excess mortar must be removed with a spatula. The rows are stacked with a slight shift relative to the previous row. After laying out 5-7 rows of bricks, the plywood template must be transferred.
If a chimney is located next to the ventilation duct, between them there should be a continuous brickwork with a thickness of at least 40 cm.This will avoid mixing of air flows and the ingress of combustion products into the ventilation system.

PVC air ducts

An important feature is the material from which the ventilation duct is made. PVC air ducts are very popular due to their low price

They are most often used in the installation of ventilation and plumbing systems. According to their characteristics, they have a number of advantages, namely:

resistant to many aggressive chemicals;
do not rust;
light in weight.

PVC is often used for installation forced ventilation... But, while more expensive plastic pipes for metal base... They are more perfect in their design, do not require an additional insulating layer.

System design

A medium-sized private house should have at least two hoods. You don't need to install a chimney in every room. As a rule, the hoods are sufficient for the bathroom and for the kitchen. The chimney is not just a hole in the wall. All of this is a fairly complex system that is best designed at the stage of housing construction. The main thing here is a delicate calculation, only in this way the system will work as efficiently as possible.

If the construction of the system itself can be done independently, then it is better to entrust the design and calculation to a professional. Take advantage of finished project much easier, because you will not need to take into account many of these or those factors necessary in the calculation.

Forced ventilation

Such a design is both more difficult to install and more expensive, and its operation implies the use of electricity, as well as various devices. But the cost of all equipment quickly pays off due to the fact that the microclimate in the house becomes much better.

Let's highlight several features of the system:

Exhaust fans are installed on the air ducts, air from the outside enters through a network of channels.
In order not to disturb the temperature regime in the cold season, it is necessary to install devices in the ventilation system to warm the air.
The cheapest heating method is not an electric heater, but a recuperator. This is a kind of heat exchanger, which has two fans - exhaust and supply. Heating of the air entering the house is carried out by gas, which is discharged into the street.

Please note that when installing a system with a recuperator, heat losses are reduced by about 30%. As a rule, the device is placed in the attic and connected to a common channel.

It combines air ducts that go from all rooms. It is necessary to provide free access to the recuperator - sometimes it will be necessary to clean the plates and change the filter elements.

Installation highlights

In standard buildings, the ventilation system is implemented using specialized ducts that are installed in the walls. Aerated concrete houses need a different system, so they are difficult.

The material used has gas permeability, which has positive and negative consequences.(violation of the tightness of the air ducts). To solve the problem, the following options are used:

Installation of a central duct made of durable galvanized steel. To avoid the formation of condensation, it can be insulated (sheathed with small-sized aerated concrete blocks).
Bricklaying of the channel and internal walls.
Casing with a channel made of high-quality plastic.

Additional steps

It is important to take care of temperature conditions, that is, heating or cooling of the supplied air. If preference is given to recuperative systems, then this will reduce the level of heat loss by 25-30 percent

This action takes place by shutting off the heat leakage caused by the air passages.

The uniqueness of aerated concrete lies in the porosity of the structure, so the blocks are simply not able to cope with the removal of the accumulated amount of moisture. The level of operational properties decreases and the interior and exterior decoration begins to deteriorate.

Professionals say that such houses are extremely necessary quality system air duct, which allows you to create the most comfortable (no moisture, drafts, quick and regular air change) and acceptable living conditions for people.

Types of ventilation systems

Ventilation in an aerated concrete house has its own characteristics. If in buildings made of traditional materials, ventilation ducts are laid only in rooms with high humidity air, then here it is desirable to arrange them in each room.

Advice. If it is too difficult, then such rooms as a kitchen, a bathroom, a boiler room and a basement must be equipped with a ventilation system. And in residential premises, interior doors must be equipped with ventilation grilles or leave a small gap underneath for free air circulation.

Door with ventilation grill

Ventilation in a private house can be natural, forced or mixed.

Examples of different schemes are given in the table.

Ventilation scheme	Explanations
Passive ventilation	Ventilation takes place naturally through ventilation ducts that lead to the roof of the house.
Mixed ventilation	Mixed ventilation system with exhaust fans in rooms with the highest air pollution. The fans are turned on as needed manually or automatically at regular intervals.
Forced exhaust ventilation	The exhaust fan is installed in a common duct that unites all air ducts coming from the rooms.
Forced supply and exhaust ventilation	The inflow of fresh air and the outflow of waste air are forced by means of a mechanical ventilation system with a recuperator.

Now more about each species.

Natural (passive) ventilation

In order for the passive ventilation of a house made of aerated concrete to work normally, you need to make some effort.

Namely:

Arrange channels for draining dirty and humid air from home. In order for it to stretch itself, these channels must go to the roof of the house to a certain height. If they are one and a half meters away from the ridge, then they should be 50 cm higher than it. At a distance of up to 3 meters, the canal head can be on the same level with the ridge. And if this distance exceeds 3 meters, the top of the channel should not be lower than the line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 100 to the horizon. Failure to comply with these requirements will result in poor traction or even "rollover".

Scheme of outputting ventilation ducts to the roof

Advice. To the top chimney it is necessary to install an umbrella for protection from precipitation or a deflector to improve the work of natural ventilation.

Provide fresh air. Sealed plastic windows he is practically not allowed into the house, but you can find a way out. For example, set window blocks with supply valves or ventilators built into the outer walls.

Advice. If the ventilators are installed directly under the windows, the air coming from the street in winter will be warmed up by the heat coming from the heating radiators.

Forced ventilation

Such a system will be more expensive both in installation and in operation due to the use of electricity and special devices for forced circulation air.

But their price pays off with greater ventilation efficiency and an improvement in the home microclimate.

Air ducts in such a system are equipped with exhaust fans, and air from the street is supplied through its own network of channels.
So that in cold weather the temperature regime in the premises is not disturbed, the ventilation system is supplied with units for heating the outside air.
The most economical option in this case is to use not an electric heater, but a heat recuperator. This is a heat exchanger with two fans - supply and exhaust, in which fresh air is heated from the heat of gases removed from the house.

The principle of operation of the recuperator

For reference. When using systems with a recuperator, heat losses in a heated building are reduced by 20-30%.

Typically, the recuperator is installed in the attic of the house and connected to a common duct into which air ducts from all ventilated rooms are combined. Access to it should be free, as it requires maintenance - cleaning the plates when changing seasons and changing filters.

Attic recovery unit

Mixed ventilation

In such a system, the inflow of fresh air occurs naturally, and exhaust fans are installed to remove the exhaust air masses.

It can be:

Appliances built into the outer walls or windows of each ventilated room;

Exhaust fan in the wall

One powerful duct fan in the attic, to which several ventilation ducts are supplied.

Duct fan

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Optimal ventilation system for aerated concrete house

It is necessary to start again with a reminder that gas silicate blocks are highly hygroscopic. This means that the best option for constructing a ventilation system in such a house is the installation of vertical channels and shafts. Let it be difficult to install the ventilation duct, even if it takes a lot of time and money, but this is the ideal option.

Installation of air valves in the walls of a gas silicate house is a high probability, firstly, to reduce the bearing capacity of the wall, and secondly, it becomes possible for moisture to penetrate into the body of gas blocks when warm air from rooms comes into contact with cold air outside. That is, the appearance of condensation is a real possibility. And this is again moisture that destroys aerated concrete.

Therefore, an additional three options are offered to help avoid trouble.

Use only a supply system with an outlet through central risers.
Use materials for insulating air exhaust valves. By the way, many manufacturers do this today. Their models use a cylindrical thermal insulation material that is inserted inside the valve. It also protects the wall from condensation.
Use only window structures as air inlets.

We create coziness and comfort

Ideally, ventilation ducts should be built into the walls of the building. This will save space and will not spoil the interior of the room. Each channel should have an exit to the inside of the room, covered with a decorative grill. And the entire system should have at least two exits to the street. One duct is designed to take in fresh outside air. The best option is to place it in the wall at a height of 1.8-2.2 meters above the foundation level. A decorative baffle will protect the entrance from foreign debris and improve the efficiency of the system. The second outlet is designed to remove polluted air from the room. It is located on the roof and connects all ventilation ducts. The diameter of the exhaust pipe must be large enough to avoid air pockets.

To ensure the required efficiency, we place the pipe 70 cm above the roof level. In the case of a large household, there can be up to five such pipes. The installation of deflectors on each of the pipes will help to increase efficiency.

Foundation ventilation

fastening of plastic pipes in the foundation formwork

Taking care of proper ventilation at home, it is important not to forget about the safety of the enclosing structures: roofs, floors, foundations. Ventilation of a private house should be designed in a complex, including auxiliary buildings and sewerage

It is advisable to plan ventilation of the foundation of the house during the construction of the foundation itself. When a floor slab has been installed on the first floor, it may not be possible to reach the required areas.

House foundation ventilation is a system of holes (air vents) located in the basement. The total area of the vents and their placement depends on the size and location of the house.

Rules for arranging ventilation of the foundation of the house:

The area of one vent should be from 0.25 sq.m. You can make several adjacent holes of a smaller area or one larger. The total area of the holes should be 0.25 square meters for every 100 square meters of the house area.
The vents are evenly distributed, otherwise areas of stagnant air will form.
From a blind corner to the nearest air outlet, the distance is up to 1 meter.
On each side of the foundation, 2 air vents are made.

If the cottage is located on a hill or plain and is well blown by the winds, for high-quality ventilation of the foundation of the house, it is enough to equip 2 air vents with a diameter of 0.15 m on each side.

If the vents are covered with nets or decorative grilles, the net hole area decreases. Therefore, it is advisable to make one additional vent on each side of the house.

In winter, the ventilation in the foundation of the house is closed, some air vents are periodically opened for ventilation. Then the floor in the house will retain its temperature, but excess moisture will not accumulate in the subfloor.

Ventilation in the foundation of the house can be done after its construction. Holes are made with a carbide-tipped hammer drill suitable size... If the plinth reinforcement is cut during drilling, the foundation will weaken in this place.

Galvanized ventilation ducts

Galvanized stainless steel ventilation ducts also have their advantages. They are fireproof, easily tolerate temperature extremes and excess moisture (with condensation). The downside is the weight - the pipes are quite heavy, which makes installation and fixation difficult.

It is often practiced that in the ventilation system I use PVC pipes intended for sewerage. This is allowed. If we compare ventilation ducts made of polyvinyl chloride and metal, then it is better to choose the former. They are both cheaper and more practical.

Important! Pipes from polymer materials cannot be mounted next to chimneys. They are not fireproof

Installation of ventilation ducts

When selecting ventilation ducts, it is necessary to focus on the material of which the pipe is composed, and to choose the correct cross-sectional diameter. After all, the better the ventilation duct, the longer it will last

In terms of shape, air ducts are:

rectangular;
round.

The latter have less sound insulation. Pipes with round diameter sections are mounted in houses with high ceiling... Ventkanal rectangular looks more impressive. However, both those and those can be decorated with a box made of thin plastic.

When laying, it is more convenient to make a rectangular channel

By design, air ducts are:

flexible;
tough.

Corrugated pipes are easy to install, because they can take any position and direction. However, when installing on site, the corrugation must be stretched to the maximum. This is done so that the "accordion" does not create unnecessary noise when the air passes through the duct. Corrugated pipes are fastened with clamps. Such an air duct is suitable for a kitchen hood.

Important! When installing ventilation, it is necessary to avoid unnecessary bends. They increase the aerodynamic resistance of passing streams

When the ventilation system is operating, dust particles settle on the inner surface of the "accordion", clogging it up. Rigid pipes, due to their smooth inner surface, not only have high noise insulation, but also prevent dirt from settling on the inner walls. They are more reliable in operation, as they are not subject to mechanical damage, dents.

Calculations of performance and optimal dimensions

Only a specialist can handle calculations that take into account the temperature, the number of people living, the area of the glazing and other parameters. However, every owner of a building is able to make a simple approximate calculation of the ventilation of his home using just a few parameters.

So, before building a ventilation duct in a load-bearing wall made of aerated concrete, it is necessary to calculate its performance. For example, let's take: a one-story house, the area of five residential premises is 80 sq. m, ceiling height - 2.7 m, kitchen with electric stove, combined bath and toilet, boiler room - 10 sq. m and data from SP 54.13330.2011 "Apartment buildings."

Inflow - 80x2.7x1 = 216 m3 / h.
Required exhaust air removal: kitchen - 60 m3 / h; bathroom - 50 cubic meters / h. boiler room - 100 cubic meters / h - 60 + 50 + 100 = 210 cubic meters / h.
The estimated rate is 216 cubic meters / h.

The height of the ventilation duct of a one-story house is 4 m. At a temperature of 25 ° C, the exhaust capacity is 58.59 cubic meters / h, therefore, 216 / 58.59 = 3.69. Based on the calculated data, it is necessary to arrange 4 air ducts, which will ensure effective ventilation of the house.

Ventilation in a brick house

ventilation of a brick house is planned at the earliest stage of construction

When creating a ventilation plan for a brick house, special attention must be paid to the location of the ventilation shafts for natural ventilation. Brick ventilation ducts in private houses can be carried out:. parallel to chimneys;
install with separate risers.

parallel to chimneys;
install with separate risers.

In any case, the exhaust shafts are led out through the roof. The draft is formed due to the difference in air pressure in the house and above the roof, carrying vapors and gases outside the home. This type of ventilation in brick house most effective during the cold season.

Channels are most often placed inside masonry walls:

with a wall thickness of 0.38 m - in one row;
with a thickness of 0.64 m - in two rows.

For ventilation of a two- or one-story house, it is most convenient to make channels with a square section of 14x14 cm. The brick is placed on the mortar for laying the walls, but you can also make a clay-sand mixture.

Prepare solid fired brick, displacers, test ball, and template in advance. As inventory buoys, plank boxes with a section of 14x14 cm, up to 10 bricks long are used. The template is a board 2.5 x 0.14 x 0.025 m, holes are cut out in it, with the shape and location corresponding to the future air ducts.

During laying, it is necessary to check the vertical with a plumb line. At the end of the work, the walls are mopped. The laying is carried out vertically. Distance to corners and doorways from 38 cm. Thermal insulation must be installed between the exhaust shaft and the chimney.

Important points when building home ventilation with your own hands:

Set the template with its end to inside transverse wall. Mark the location of the holes with chalk and check the template from time to time during work;
The walls of the channels are made 1 brick thick;
The solution is trimmed and the channels are stacked end-to-end;
Next to the ventilation ducts, the ligation of the laying is performed in one row;
To make the shaft stronger, you can lay bricks across the channel, but it will be more difficult to clean such a channel;
Branch channels are laid out of bricks hewn at the desired angle (more than 60 degrees to the horizon). The diameter of the main and outlet ducts must match;
The ligation of the wall and the shaft is done in three-quarters and halves of bricks;
The buoys, which are repositioned from time to time, simultaneously help maintain the shape of the canal and keep it clear;
When mopping, the walls are moistened and thoroughly rubbed.

Channel deviation from the vertical impairs traction. In this case, there is only one outlet - an exhaust fan.

Forced ventilation

The circulation of air flows in the foam block house is carried out using mechanical devices. Ventilation of the room can be carried out according to three different schemes:

mechanical exhaust;
mechanical supply;
supply and exhaust mechanical.

In the case of mechanical removal of dirty air, exhaust fans are installed in the air ducts. These devices are divided into:

centrifugal;
axial;
kitchen.

Unsuitable air can be discharged directly into the street or into the ventilation mine. In the latter version, in order to prevent the backflow of dirty air, it is necessary to equip a check valve.

Mechanical supply ventilation is carried out by supplying fresh air through the ventilation ducts using air dampers, ducted air conditioners. It complements natural ventilation. The incoming air stream can be cleaned and heated.

In the supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery, the supply air is heated at the expense of the exhaust air. That is, the air flows do not mix, but pass through adjacent parallel channels. In this way, supply air warms up. The recuperators use little electricity during operation. Another plus is that the mechanical device is not noisy. The air inflow and outflow are balanced, so the circulation of air flows inside the house will be carried out evenly.

Why choose inertial hoods

If a person asks the question of choosing an air duct system in the house, then it is worth considering inertial supply and exhaust structures. Before making purchases, it is worth calculating the length and cross-section of the channels.

Then the location of absolutely all valves is determined. For correct execution, a complete ventilation circuit at home, which is based on the characteristics of the interaction of air. According to the laws of physics, warm air rises and cold air descends.

Even if the ventilation system is installed independently, then you need to think about what materials and tools are needed for installation. At the moment, stores offer a wide range of goods with which you can as soon as possible install an air circulation system.

What are the ventilation ducts and what for?

In a house made of aerated concrete, ventilation should ideally be built along with the construction of walls.

Ventilation ducts are an extractor hood for a natural ventilation system. Natural ventilation can also be called round-the-clock, without mechanical induction

The device of ventilation ducts in houses made of aerated concrete blocks is very important. Such buildings especially need good ventilation, since aerated concrete, due to its porous structure, is an excellent moisture absorber

He tends to absorb it not only from the outside, from the environment, but also into wet rooms inside the house. Because of this, when the temperature drops, the moisture in the pores freezes and expands, which leads to the appearance of cracks. That is why it is necessary to timely remove moisture from those rooms in which it can linger.

Ventilation ducts in aerated concrete house should be provided for the premises:

bathroom;
bathroom;
kitchens;
pool;
boiler room;
garage;
cellars.

Also, this list includes a room located directly above the boiler room, regardless of its purpose. Such safety measures are taken to avoid the possible ingress of exhaust gases there.

The ventilation duct is a sturdy structure that leads a continuous duct to a height above the roof and allows for constant air movement. Basically, the dimensions of the ventilation duct are 120x120 mm, for brickwork - 120x250 mm, wall thickness - 100 mm. Due to the fact that the channel made of bricks for a two-story house weighs approximately 5.5 tons, it is installed on the foundation.

What parts does a street chimney consist of?

As already mentioned, the most popular and most reliable of the street ones are sandwich chimneys. The standard pipe sleeve must be led out through the tree with the particularly careful fire protection that only sandwich technology can provide. At the same time, there should be no pipe joints at the place of transition through the wall! So, what parts does a street chimney usually consist of, which is led out through the wall? This:

Pipes;
Tees;
Elbow for bending the pipeline in the desired direction;
Chimney support;
Clamps. Distance between the clamps when fastening to the wall: 60-100 cm;
T-piece with revision, i.e. a door for cleaning the chimney;
Condensate collector with a spout for removing it.

Ventilation of aerated concrete house

The big advantage of turnkey gas silicate block projects is their quick erection and reasonable price. But having built a house quickly, it is not at all necessary that it will be possible to live in it comfortably and with dignity. Correct calculation will help to avoid climatic discomfort - minimum value the air exchange rate for residential buildings and premises is 1m3, and the temperature is 22 ° C.

Ventilation and air conditioning system in a house made of foam blocks Photo: a cottage made of gas silicate blocks in Odintsovo

It is possible to achieve values corresponding to sanitary standards without serious costs using a complex of natural and forced ventilation. A modern ventilation system is designed with air recuperation, which reduces heat loss by 20-30%. This corresponds to the heat loss from the air channels of aerated concrete blocks.

The project of the climatic system of a house made of gas silicate blocks

In a cottage near Moscow, the principles of climatic comfort and budget construction were embodied. In order for the temperature and humidity parameters and the frequency of air exchange in the aerated concrete house to comply with the SNiP standards, the following equipment was installed:

ventilation shaft on the roof - natural ventilation;
Helios fans, Wolf air handling unit, Hidria air handling unit - supply and exhaust ventilation;
compressor and condenser unit with freon lines - air conditioning;
fire damper, air damper - smoke exhaust;
automation for Klimair2 / Topair - automation;
silencers ГТП1-5, galvanized air ducts - consumables.

The house was made of ultra-lightweight autoclaved aerated concrete blocks. After the commissioning of the ventilation and air conditioning system with automation and smoke removal, climatic comfort was provided, the house began to "breathe" and was no longer afraid of humidity. Despite the low permeability of the walls made of foam blocks, thanks to forced ventilation in the living quarters, it has ceased to be stuffy, it has become more environmentally friendly and easy to breathe.

How to build a climate-friendly house

The specialists of the climatic company LLC "StroyEngineering" will help you to build a house correctly and organize the best ventilation and air conditioning system for your cottages made of foam blocks, summer cottages made of aerated concrete, private houses made of foam concrete. Experienced designers will select the optimal technical equipment and prepare high-quality climatic systems for internal comfort in townhouses and cottage settlements on a turnkey basis.

We offer excellent conditions - favorable prices, fast terms of execution, revision of projects, guarantee of a SRO participant. Management companies, homeowners' associations, construction and repair organizations from Moscow and the region - special treatment, discounts for service maintenance of air conditioners!

Qualified specialists will carry out professional installation of ventilation equipment, strictly in accordance with the technologies and requirements of the installation of supply and exhaust ventilation and central air conditioning. Your home made of foam concrete blocks will be provided with a well-thought-out, comfortable and environmentally friendly climate.

What projects will help create comfortable living conditions

Calculation and arrangement of ventilation in the cottage
Supply and exhaust ventilation of the basement - diagram
Ventilation system in saunas and steam rooms
How to properly ventilate the garage?

Construction of houses from turnkey foam blocks according to low prices helped to carry out qualified designers and contractors who ordered the development of a climate system in our company.

Panel house ventilation

ventilation scheme of a panel house

Ventilation system panel houses is a set of concrete structures assembled together, as the children's designer... The ventilation of all panel houses belongs to the uncontrolled natural type and is based solely on the use of natural phenomena. Air removal occurs due to the temperature and pressure difference in the ventilation shaft and above the roof of the house. In the apartments, a vacuum is formed, which is replenished by the supply air.

According to the ventilation plan of the house, the exhaust ducts are bred in such a way that air flows do not flow from one apartment to another. It is correct to bring a satellite channel to each bathroom and kitchen at home, which flows into the ventilation shaft on the next floor. To in ventilation last floors Stalinist houses did not arise reverse thrust, air ducts emit gases into the atmosphere, bypassing the common riser.

The air inflow into the apartments is planned through the slightly open vents, door and window cracks. The ventilation of prefabricated houses is not designed for modern construction technologies providing complete isolation of apartments from the outside world. Therefore, without modernization, the ventilation of multi-storey buildings is inactive.

DIY ventilation modernization

Dampness, crying windows and stuffiness make residents think about how to properly ventilate the house. Most often, attempts to make ventilation in the house with your own hands begin with the installation of an exhaust fan and a kitchen hood. Before doing it yourself, understand the principles of ventilation in the house:

The house ventilation plan includes an extract and a supply.
Free passage of air flows inside the apartment.
Clean air is supplied to bedrooms and living rooms, exhaust air is removed from the toilet, bathroom, kitchen.

supply valve

This is a minimum of conditions for proper ventilation in the house. Correctly installed ventilation in the house, in addition to the hood, also provides air supply. For this, a variety of supply devices have been developed:

wall and window valves;
compact supply units;
ventilators.

Any of the listed devices will cope with the ventilation of an apartment in a multi-storey building, providing more or less comfort. Valves they serve outside air without heating, only by filtering it. But supply units and compact ventilators warm the inflow without disturbing the temperature regime of the apartment.

Before starting work, order diagnostics of general exchange exhaust ventilation in a Stalinist house. If the mine is blocked by neighbors or littered with debris, an exhaust fan will not help.

Calculation and design

Let's look at how you can calculate the ventilation system using the example of a one-story house made of gas blocks. We will take into account that natural air exchange is used in the house, where the hood is installed in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. And the inflow is made through three living rooms. It turns out that for the calculation it is necessary to take into account either the supply volume, taking into account the standard, or the exhaust volume. Therefore, both indicators are first calculated, and the larger one is selected from them.

The house has three living rooms with a total area of 100 m² and a ceiling height of 3 m. Air exchange in them is 30 m³ / hour according to the norms. That is, the total value is 90 m³ / hour.
Now there are three rooms from which the hood comes: a kitchen - 60 m³ / hour, a bathroom and a toilet 25 each. That is, the total air outflow will be 110 m³ / hour.

Features of the layout

For good air exchange interior doors should not close too tightly. It is necessary to provide special ducts for the passage of air. However, the design itself interior doors does not provide for density. Interior suspended doors create ideal conditions for natural ventilation of the house. Windows in the house should also be equipped with vents, which will allow you to regulate the rate of air exchange in one direction or another, this is especially true in the off-season. The stove or fireplace itself is part of natural ventilation. As an addition to the system, a special fan can be installed in the kitchen window. All this will allow you to very efficiently ventilate the room.

The basics of arranging ventilation ducts

The ventilation duct device assumes the obligatory sealing of the seams

SNiP 2.04.05-86 contains all the requirements for ventilation ducts. Ventilation pipes, mines are combined into one common system ventilation. In the event of a fire, they can be dangerous, therefore, their construction must comply with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003.

Ventilation ducts in a house made of foam blocks cannot be erected in the outer walls. Due to the high probability of condensation formation during the cold season.
The mine should be built upright. In the case of erecting its horizontal orientation, the angle of inclination should be at least 60 ° to the base of the house.
If the house has rooms with high humidity, then the construction of ventilation ducts in their walls is prohibited. From dampness, they can collapse over time.
When the air duct is led out through the roof, at a distance farther than 3 m from the ridge of the roof, the height of the duct must be at least 50 cm from the roof.

The size of the vertical ventilation shafts depends on two main factors - the heat source and the air exchange required for a given building.

For example, if equipment with a thermal power of 3.5 kW, then the ventilation mine is erected with a section of 140 x 140 mm. If the heat source is 5.2 kW, the size of the ventilation shaft is 140 x 200 mm. If the power is greater, then the diameter of the shaft is, respectively, 140 x270 mm.

Important! Ventshakhty are erected at a distance of 40 cm from windows and doors. This indicator also applies to the installation of ventilation ducts.

The inner part of the canal of any diameter should be smooth, the seams should be carefully rubbed.

Natural ventilation channel in a private house placement rules

Ventilation ducts represent the hood of a natural ventilation system. The air flow into it is carried out through leaks in windows and doors, as well as through special channels in the walls. Air from the street passes through all the rooms and is discharged into the general ventilation duct, which has branches throughout the house.

In a private house made of brick or aerated concrete, the laying of ventilation ducts should be provided for the following rooms:

bathroom;
bathroom or shower room;
kitchen;
garage;
cellar;
boiler room.

It is in these rooms that a high content of moisture, heat and various contaminants in the air is noted.

For safety reasons, special attention should be paid to the ventilation of the boiler room and the rooms adjacent to it - gas accumulates in this place.

Why ventilation is needed

Poor air exchange in rooms creates noticeable discomfort for all domestic inhabitants, from pets to humans. Not only does this cause significant damage to the wallet, but health first of all suffers. The accumulation of waste products - carbon dioxide and moisture - has an extremely negative effect on a person. In addition, the smell of dampness creates discomfort, so natural ventilation is essential for any household.

Typically, poor ventilation will drastically shorten the life of a home. Mold and mildew, sudden changes in humidity and lack of running air negate all efforts to keep the home in good condition. Unlike multi-storey buildings, where everything is provided for by the project, in a private house you have to think over the ventilation system on your own. This is a rather laborious process that requires knowledge and experience. However, contrary to popular belief, if you wish, all the worries about the design and construction of the air exchange system can be placed on your own shoulders. If you doubt your abilities, it is better not to tempt fate and seek help from a specialist.

What not to do

Professionals strongly recommend not to install ventilation system ducts in aerated concrete houses in load-bearing walls. This leads to negative consequences, since the creation of condensate in the premises begins, and the indicators of heat-saving qualities decrease.

Aerated concrete houses require special attention, therefore, the systems are equipped in mines or partitions designated for these purposes, which are located between the inner walls. So you can create an excellent air exchange with your own hands, even in a large building.

Most effective method gaskets - casing using plastic ventilation ducts. In the aerated concrete structure, a ventilation outlet is attached, this is done in the first block and the system is wired from it.

Further installation involves cutting holes of a suitable size, where the air duct is laid. Plastic ventilation ducts have their advantages, if they are introduced into the aerated concrete of one of the private houses, the owners can forget about condensation.

If ventilation is needed in an apartment building, then two types of systems are offered:

Valve in the window profile.
Wall recessed.

The second option is not always available, because certain technical capacities are needed, so window valves are a simple solution, even if you have aerated concrete walls.

If the air flow increases, then you will have to install a reliable and powerful exhaust fan in a multi-storey building, which provides a high rate of air exchange. The device is selected based on the parameters of the room.

In some cases, you will have to install a powerful fan

In this material, we will talk more about ventilation ducts (ventilation ducts), but other engineering holes in aerated concrete masonry will be considered. We will talk about several ways to create ventilation ducts, as well as related questions that may arise when working with their installation.

Let's start with the fact that the ventilation ducts belong to the utilities of the vertical type, the task of which is to create a directed air flow for ventilation of the room.

Channels and grooves for engineering communications are divided into horizontal and vertical. Horizontal grooves in aerated concrete are made shallow, since horizontal grooving along the entire length of the wall greatly weakens the masonry, especially if the thickness is small. Horizontal and vertical grooves / channels are made for electrical, plumbing, sewerage and heat transfer systems for heating.

For the ventilation system and chimney, strictly vertical channels of a certain diameter are usually made. To make the draft in the ventilation ducts higher, it is useful to use plastic or metal sleeves. For the chimney, strictly metal sleeves must be used.

It is worth noting that brick inserts in aerated concrete are not needed, since there is little sense in them, except that the brick absorbs heat from the fireplace better and gives it to the room better.

Methods for creating ventilation ducts in aerated concrete

There are 4 ways to create end-to-end ventilation ducts in aerated concrete masonry:

Drill aerated blocks with large diameter crowns and drills.
Lay out channels in the wall from thinner partition blocks.
Purchase ready-made O-blocks from aerated concrete.
Make shallow grooves.

If you use the method of drilling aerated concrete, you will have to consistently drill each laid out block. That is, they laid the gas block, drew a vertical line of the ventilation duct and cut out a hole along this line, in the next row the hole should strictly coincide with the lower one vertically and indented from the edges of the block.

Remember that in some rows of the masonry there is reinforcement, and its location should be suitable for the plan of the ventilation ducts and for their diameter. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the wall and indents from the edges, choosing the diameter of the hole itself.

It is worth noting that it is difficult for a self-builder to take into account all the moments in construction from his first construction site, there are always jambs on which extra time and money is spent. And in order to avoid unnecessary expenses, it is useful to develop or order a ready-made construction plan, for example, a project for a three-story house made of aerated concrete, in which all the details will be taken into account and provided.

The chimney is also a ventilation duct in which the temperature and draft are higher. In chimneys, a stainless steel sleeve is required. The liner reduces soot build-up, eliminates turbulence and provides better traction with a smaller cross-section, since air permeability through the aerated concrete masonry is eliminated.

The gap between the sleeve and the aerated concrete masonry must not be sealed with mortar or glue. The gap is filled with sand, perlite or decaying materials, which eliminate the vibration of the ventilation duct.

You will learn more about the nuances of ventilation from the video by Gleb Green.

For a visual explanation of the installation of ventilation ducts, see this video.