Encyclopedia of fire safety

Mansard roof truss system equipment: drawings. How to build a mansard roof with your own hands using a unique construction technology How to make a roof in the attic

Many male people, finding a family, sooner or later think about purchasing their own home. Someone takes an apartment on a mortgage, and someone saves money for. But save up for big house not many succeed and the alternative would be to build a house with.

What is a mansard roof

The attic can be built from or from a suitable material for you.

It will not be difficult to build an attic, but patience, diligence, suitable materials and availability of tools.

The shape and design of the roof must be included in the design of the house in order to avoid incidents during further operation.


You can take to build a house with standard project or order it from professionals. In such documentation, you will be able to understand where to start and choose the right materials for construction.

Now you can buy everything you need, but first equip a place to store building materials and tools. The storage area must be dry and free from rain or snow to damage the building material.

Also, under a canopy, it will be possible to equip a small workshop for the manufacture of some parts of the house or roof. For a house from or who does not have the opportunity to build a full-fledged second floor, the choice mansard roof would be the best option. House from will be a budget option. Next, we will consider the attic device.

Structural elements of the attic in design are practically no different from gable roofs.

Materials required for the construction of a mansard roof

The roof is the outer covering of the roof, it protects inner part attic and can be made of various materials.

For roofing, as a rule, such materials are used:


Stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands

After getting acquainted with the names of the roof device, we can continue to further disassemble the construction in stages.

First stage

The construction of the attic always begins with Mauerlat mounting.

When building on a stone box, you need to think about fixing with studs or anchors at a distance of no more than two meters.

At the locations of the anchors, the timber is marked, a hole is made in it and put on the anchor, then the Mauerlat is fixed with nuts to the wall.

To simplify the marking, it is necessary to put the beam on the anchor and lightly walk with a hammer from above, after these manipulations there should be traces, they will be the places for drilling holes.

Second phase

The second stage in the construction of the attic will be the installation of floor beams.

Actions must be consistent.

First of all, the extreme beams from the ends are installed, then the intermediate ones. Between the intermediate and extreme beams, it is necessary to pull a nylon cord or scaffolding, or you can still use a level. These devices are needed to indicate the plane.

Third stage


We install, align in a vertical position and fix the support posts.

We strengthen with jibs and make horizontal runs.

It should be borne in mind that the racks are placed in equal numbers with the floor beams on two parallel sides of the attic.

Rigidity supporting structure provide horizontal runs.


Fourth stage (truss system)

Template-prepared parts roof structure install according to and fix to the vertical supports.

Elements can be fixed using boards or metal plates with holes.

Fifth stage (pediments and crate)

W
we sew the gables, leaving room for, we attach the sheathing boards all over the roof. This is the most simple work during the construction of the attic.

Sixth stage

So we have almost come to the end of construction and this is the insulation of the mansard roof with our own hands.

IN modern construction use a variety of materials for insulation and, you can buy them at any hardware store.

final stage


After the roof is covered with a roof, we lay the drainage system, it is she who will give the finished look. Of course, this is not quite the final, because you have to interior work for finishing, but this is not the subject of this article.

The modern mansard roof is a great opportunity without any hassle to significantly expand the living space of your home. But, if you involve builders in the work, then this can cost a pretty penny. It is quite understandable that each of us thought about the question of whether it is possible to do everything on our own without experience. We assure you that a do-it-yourself mansard roof is more than real. We provide you with comprehensive instructions.

Currently the best optionbroken attic. It is quite spacious and can really become a full-fledged living space with a large area. Naturally, for this you need to make accurate calculations.

Building a mansard roof will require you to consider many factors before. Let's list the main ones.

Video about the mansard roof of the house with your own hands

It is quite clear that the smaller the angle of inclination, the more usable space will be in your attic. But it is far from always necessary to strive for the most gently sloping placement. Here are some features of the choice:

  • If your home is located in temperate climate, where the weather is often windy, and snow is rare, then you can safely make a roof with a slight slope;
  • If snowfalls and downpours are common in your area, a sloping roof should be discarded;
  • Do not forget that you need to take care of high-quality heat, sound and waterproofing. The attic is such a living space, like the rest of the rooms in your house;
  • The best roofing materials are tiles or slate. Many mistakenly put a metal coating, but with the advent of cold weather they face problems of heat conservation in the attic. Please note that the materials must be fireproof and moisture resistant. The roof always consists of wooden elements. In order to better preserve, it is recommended to treat all such surfaces with an antifungal solution;
  • An outdoor staircase for the attic will significantly save space in the house. Internal staircase- the option is much more convenient, but it also takes up a lot of space. Great if you take care of installing a ceiling ladder. She practically does not take up space. As an alternative, you can install a spiral staircase, but its convenience is often questionable.

An outdoor staircase for the attic will significantly save space in the house

  • To begin with, you will need wooden beams 10x10 cm in cross section. They are applied over waterproofing. The best material for her is roofing material or roofing felt, which is sold in rolls. Working with them is quite convenient and you do not need any additional skills. If your ceiling is also made of wood, then there is no need to lay an additional beam under the main beams.
  • The next step is to install the racks on the beams. The same bar with a section of 10x10 cm will suit you. These racks are a kind of skeleton of the walls of your attic. In order for them to fully fulfill their functions, they must be placed no further than two meters from each other. Make sure each one is perfectly level. We recommend checking each with a level and, if necessary, filing in the right places. When the racks are installed, they must be sheathed on both sides. For the inside, a great option is drywall or ordinary plywood, for the outside - slab. It is important not to forget this stage lay the insulation between the racks. Each rack is separately fixed with spikes and staples. So that at the same time they do not lean, we recommend that they be properly fixed with temporary braces.
  • Next, lay upper beam. Its cross section should be the same as in the previous paragraphs. You can fix it the way you want. But make sure that the beams are held firmly and firmly.

Each rack is individually secured with spikes and staples

  • Now you need to install the Mauerlat. This is a kind of support for the rafter leg, which is located at the bottom of the structure. For Mauerlat, you will need a beam with a section of 40x40 cm or a board with the same thickness. Thanks to the Mauerlat, high strength of the roof rafters to the walls will be ensured. It allows you to redirect the weight of the roof directly onto the walls. More than 40 cm cross section is optional. All the same, the Mauerlat lies directly on the wall and the load on it is relatively small. Just remember to put waterproofing under it, otherwise it will start to rot over time.
  • High-quality fixed mauerlat protects your roof from the effects of wind, snow mass in winter and other loads. Therefore, make sure that it is fixed carefully. To do this, you can use a wire with a diameter of up to 5 mm. It is best to choose annealed wire, which is just designed for strapping. In order to make the walls more durable, the wire is embedded directly into them.
  • Now you need to install rafter legs. Make markings on the rafter frame and Mauerlat in places where the rafters will be installed. Usually the step is 1-1.2 m. For rafters, a board with a section of 4-5 cm and a width of 15 cm is suitable for you. Choose only perfectly flat boards. It is better to overpay a little money for them, but be sure that a do-it-yourself residential attic will not cause you to collapse the attic roof.

For rafters, a board with a section of 4-5 cm and a width of 15 cm is suitable for you

  • Rafter legs should rest on the ridge beam. If your attic has a large area, then the weight of its roof will be large. Therefore, the beam is an indispensable structural element. It is not needed only if the length of the rafter is less than eight meters. In this case, you can do with the usual stretch marks.
  • Filly installation. Produce it in the same way as the rafters. To simplify the process, start with the two extremes, pull the twine between them and align with it when installing the next ones.
  • Now it is necessary to nail the hem board to the fillies. It will become an obstacle to wind and almost any precipitation.
  • Before you make a mansard roof, you must consider where the windows will be installed. Remember that their area should occupy at least 12-13% of the area of ​​the side walls. Where you decide to put windows, you need to strengthen the rafters. To do this, install the cross bars. They will take on the role of the lower and upper parts of the opening, where the window frame will be installed and attached.

Before you make a mansard roof, you must consider where the windows will be installed.

When the previous ten points are completed, you need to carefully double-check everything that has been done. Already at this stage, you will understand how to make a roof with an attic without any problems, but you always need to play it safe. Especially if you are doing it for the first time.

Carefully go through all the rafters and beams with a level, check whether they really hold tightly and securely, whether there is insulation everywhere, whether problem areas need to be finalized. It will be better if you ask one of the more experienced builders to assess with a trained eye whether everything is really done the way it should. Remember that the roof in your house must be safe and strong. But if everything is fine and the design is held securely, you can proceed to further work:

  • You have already created the roof skeleton. Now you need to nail the battens to the rafters. The pitch depends on which roofing material you choose for your roof.
  • When the crate is installed, a hydrobarrier must be installed on it. In most cases, plain plastic film works best for this. It is inexpensive, qualitatively protects the attic from moisture ingress and is easily attached with construction brackets. The main thing to remember is that the layers of the film must be laid from the bottom up with the layers overlapping each other.
  • A heat-insulating layer must be placed on top of the film. One of the best materials, which serves for these purposes - mineral wool. It is lightweight, keeps heat well and is completely safe for your health, unlike many others. thermal insulation materials. In addition, it effectively prevents the spread of rodents in your home.

On top of the film it is necessary to put a heat-insulating layer

  • When you get to the roof, proceed in the same way as in the case of plastic wrap. The roofing ball also lies from the bottom up, and the elements are superimposed on each other. Make sure that in those places where there is a break in the roof, the upper ball of the roof protrudes above the lower one. It is very important. Otherwise, with the slightest rain, your roof will leak, and the structure will gradually rot.
  • The installation of the ridge should take place in such a way that its design completely excludes the possibility of rain falling under the roof of your roof.

Completion of installation

The main part of the work has come to an end. It is recommended to make mansard roofs multi-layered so that they provide the best heat, noise and waterproofing of the entire attic. Do not forget also that the attic must "breathe". Modern windows and doors are an essential element of any such roof.

If you have not fully decided on the installation of stairs, then for a start it is better to install an external one. It will be cheaper and easier that way. In any case, if you feel that this option does not suit you, you can make a staircase indoors at any time, sacrificing space in the house.

Video about a gable roof

Now you know how to build a mansard roof according to all the rules and not resort to the help of an expensive team of builders. Be patient, select high-quality materials and tools, and then follow our instructions. Good luck!

The construction of attics has recently broken all records of popularity - the cost of housing is growing, and the attic allows you to get additional living space with minimal investment. However, the device of such a roof has its own specifics and nuances that should be taken into account in order to obtain the expected result. In this article, we will consider in detail all the subtleties of building an attic with our own hands.

It is necessary to start the construction of the attic by creating a plan and assessing the condition of the supporting structures. In some cases, the foundation will not cope with the additional load, for example, if you decide to build an attic on an old house. So that the foundation does not go into the ground and does not crack, it is necessary to conduct a study and, if necessary, strengthen the foundation.

The second issue that should be resolved is to decide on the type of construction of the future attic. This means choosing the shape of the roof and the finishing material. This will depend not only appearance facade, but also the dimensions of the interior space.

Drafting a project

The design stage, from which any serious construction must begin, is fundamental to all further work. Not only the final result depends on the accuracy of the calculations, but also the savings on building materials and personal time. It is better to immediately take the creation of the attic project seriously, so that later you do not spend money on correcting your own mistakes.

First of all, it is necessary to analyze the specifics of the layout of the building on which the attic will be attached. The analysis should include the dimensions of the walls of the future structure, the shape of the roof, finishing materials, the location of windows, doors, balconies, stairs, etc. It is important to take into account every little thing, down to which sockets you will install and what devices will be connected to them.

The relevant SNiP can help in drawing up the attic plan, which sets out in detail the standards and requirements for construction. For example, the joining line of the roof and the facade wall should be no less than 150 cm from the attic floor.

What should be given special attention when creating an attic project:


These points should form the basis of the attic project, and if you designate them, it will be much easier to work. If you have never done such work, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with attic projects on the websites of developer companies or private firms so as not to miss any important detail.

Rafter calculation

The calculation of the roof truss system must be performed very accurately and competently, since it depends on it whether the load-bearing walls can withstand the load of the attic. Depending on the angle of inclination of the rafters and the configuration of the roof, the load varies. If you doubt the strength of the walls, it is better to immediately strengthen them or choose a roof structure that is not too heavy.

The established building codes will help to perform the engineering calculation of the truss system:

The most common roof option for an attic is a gable broken roof, however, in this case, the load on the walls will be much greater than, say, a single-pitched structure. But the advantage of a broken roof is that it provides the maximum possible usable area attic. Regardless of the chosen type of roof, it is necessary to create a strong frame with a sufficient number of bearing supports that can withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

Design features

If you want to build an attic on an old house, you will first need to dismantle the old roof. After dismantling, you can proceed with the installation load-bearing elements designs - Mauerlat.

Mauerlat for attic

To fix the Mauerlat, experts recommend using anchor bolts with a diameter of at least 12 mm and fixing them in a layer of reinforced concrete. Before installing the anchor, bend its end so that you get a hook - this way you protect the fastener from accidental pulling out.

Professional designers make detail drawing attic, where the attachment points of the Mauerlat to the wall are displayed separately. In the same place, the required number of anchors and their sizes are usually indicated. The bolt pitch can be from 100 to 150 cm.

Mauerlat is a powerful bar with a section of 150x150 or 200x200, located at the point of convergence of the roof and the bearing wall of the house. For arrangement gable roof you need to install two beams, and for a 4-pitched one, you guessed it, 4 beams will be needed.

Mauerlat fasteners should be located between the rafters so that there are not too many tie-ins in it, which can negatively affect bearing capacity. For example, if you build an attic with your own hands with rafters located a meter apart, then the anchors should also go in steps of a meter, but with an offset of 50 cm, in order to stand just between the rafters.

Helpful Hint: always use only galvanized bolts to fasten the Mauerlat to prevent rust.

Install the support bar on the layer waterproofing material. It can be an ordinary roofing felt, plastic film or a modern waterproof membrane. If you make an attic in brick house, anchors can be placed at the time of the construction of load-bearing walls. To fix the beam in the Mauerlat, drill holes with a diameter equal to the diameter of the studs, and when the beam falls into place, secure it with nuts.

truss system

Mauerlat is the basis of the truss system, and it, in turn, is the "skeleton" of the roof. This Basic structure must bear the weight of roofing cake and external loads - wind, snow, water, etc. Requirements for truss systems are described in SNiP depending on the type of roof and climatic conditions region.

To equip the rafter system, you will need conventional tools that every owner has - a hammer, an ax, a hacksaw, a level, construction stapler, plumb line, tape measure. To build an attic from a bar and be sure of its durability, choose strong products without defects with a section of 100x100 mm for racks and rafters with a suitable section. Of the fasteners, you will need nails 100-120 mm, powerful metal staples and an antifungal compound for processing wooden elements. In a good way, all bars and boards should be treated with disinfectant and flame retardant compounds. The highest quality rafters are obtained from pine and larch. The moisture content of the material should be no more than 22%.

Rafters can be inclined and hanging. Inclined elements at one end abut against a load-bearing wall, and at the other end against a run or rack. Hanging ones allow you to organize a small canopy of the roof slope over the wall of the house, thus providing additional protection from moisture and cold. The rafters are connected on the ridge of the roof with an overlap or overhead dies.

Important: The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat in case of use wooden beams floors, and if construction is carried out on a reinforced concrete slab, racks can be placed at any point.

During the construction of the mansard roof, it is very important to properly organize the system of diagonal braces and struts. To prevent the elements from bending over time, it is necessary to install a horizontal crossbar. For very wide buildings, it is recommended to set hanging rafters, tightened with a puff.

In some cases, not only wooden, but also metal elements are used to build a rafter "skeleton", however, the difference in the thermal conductivity coefficients of materials can lead to deformations. In addition, metal parts need additional waterproofing.

Roof installation

Each type of roof has its own installation technology, but there is general points requiring special attention. So, valleys, regardless of the roofing material, are more difficult to make than laying the coating, and with adjunctions, there may be additional problems. Therefore, it is important to strictly follow the installation instructions so that in the future the junctions with pipes or walls do not cause trouble.

How to build an attic:


A video on how to build an attic with your own hands will allow you to better understand the whole process:

Thermal insulation of the attic

Separately, I would like to dwell on the thermal insulation of the attic. Warming attic space consists of three stages: protection of the floor, gables and ceiling. For all surfaces, you can use one insulation, the main thing is that it is resistant to moisture, has low thermal conductivity, does not burn and is environmentally friendly. Many of these requirements modern materials different cost. Of the most inexpensive, foam plastic, polystyrene foam boards, and mineral wool can be distinguished. Fiberboard boards can be used for the attic, located above the bath.

Consider the most popular attic insulation:

  1. Glass wool - a variety mineral wool insulation and one of the most budget options, however, the installation of this material is quite specific. It is especially difficult to work with glass wool when insulating ceilings, since it releases a lot of dust that causes irritation. Work should be carried out in a protective suit covering the whole body, goggles, gloves and a respirator. Despite being tempting low price, many prefer other materials, such as foam.
  2. Styrofoam is a traditional insulation used in various areas of construction. It is easy to work with, it retains heat well, does not absorb moisture and will last at least 10 years. The only drawback is that in case of fire, the foam melts and emits toxic smoke that is hazardous to health.
  3. Expanded polystyrene - more durable compared to polystyrene, has a high vapor permeability and durability. Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate rooms with high humidity. It does not burn and does not emit toxic substances, therefore it is considered one of the best budget heaters for residential premises.
  4. Fiberboard - best option attic insulation above the bath. The material has excellent sound insulation, low thermal conductivity, does not deform. With it, you can quickly level the surface for laying the finish coat.

We told you how to properly build an attic, using the most economical materials and proven installation methods. Interior decoration carried out in exactly the same way as in the rest of the house. You can wallpaper the walls, paint with paint, lay the floor with laminate or lay a warm carpet.

The mansard roof is one of best ways increase total area your home, with minimal financial outlay. By erecting a similar design, you get an additional fairly spacious room, which can become a good nursery or yours. personal account. You can also just invite guests there, in general, there are a lot of options for you to choose from. Equipping it, you need to be prepared that everything is important to do correctly and step by step. The mansard roof itself is a converted attic, its creation requires a structural approach to the overall redevelopment, roofing and thermal insulation. roof construction attic type country house, almost does not differ from the construction of a conventional roof. Below we will carefully study how to properly build a mansard roof with our own hands.

First of all, you need to consider the advantages and disadvantages of such a roof, in order to finally decide whether to proceed with its construction.

Advantages and disadvantages of a mansard roof

The advantages of mansard roofs include:

  • additional room. As we have already discussed above, the main advantage of the attic is an additional spacious room that you can equip as you like according to your taste;
  • moderate financial costs. The second factor of such a floor is the relatively low cost of its construction. Indeed, the construction of an attic will cost you much less than an extension to the house additional rooms due to the general expansion of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house;
  • view from the window. Beautiful view from the attic window will not leave anyone indifferent, since a view of the world from a height is always beautiful.

To disadvantages attic floor it is possible, perhaps, to add the need for additional heating. On the video you can clearly see the construction process:

Types of mansard roofs

If you decide to start building an attic roof, then first of all you need to start by designing how your work will look like in end result and also how exactly to implement the plan. The main decisions regarding the type of roofs must be made taking into account the design features of the house.

The main types of roofs include:

On the video you can see how the mansard roof is being built:

Below we consider the device of this roof, which you can build yourself

Attic device

Mansard roofs are very similar to simple ones. pitched roofs. Each type of such roofs has its own design features, but in general they all have common elements Let's look at them:

  1. Roof. The surface of the roof, which is outside, serves to protect against rain, snow and other bad weather;
  2. Crate. Basically, these are wooden boards, a roof is attached to them;
  3. Skate ride. The outer part of the entire roof structure;
  4. Rafter. These are layered or hanging stiffeners of the entire structure. For the attic, it is the layered rafters that are used;
  5. Internal supports. Vertical beams serve to ensure the strength and stability of the roof;
  6. insulating layer. An insulating cake of several layers is placed between the walls of the premises and the roof, which makes it possible to observe temperature regime throughout the attic. Insulation includes soundproofing, vapor barrier, as well as a thick layer of thermal insulation. Of course, the safety of the roof itself directly depends on the correct insulation of the roof.

Video to help you get started:

Attic construction. Technology

Quite often, architects, when designing a roof, lose sight of significant errors in ventilation and insulation. These mistakes are fraught with the fact that mold, fungus appears on the roof and, in general, it begins to leak in just two years. This happens because the attic construction technology is violated. Due to the fact that it is strongly pressed against the wall inside the room, it is very difficult to achieve good heat transfer. The entire design of the attic should include good ventilation, thermal insulation, as well as a truss structure, which will be made of wood treated with fire retardants.

The thickness of the thermal insulation should be at least 20 cm, since the climate in our area is quite cold in winter, and quite hot in summer. The main disadvantages of the attic design are that a lot of heat is lost in winter, and it is very hot in the attic in summer. Proper thermal insulation can fully solve this problem, it will keep the heat inside in winter period, and will not allow a large number of warmth in the intense heat of summer.

It is also necessary to properly equip the ventilation of the roof. In the summer, with enough high temperature, the roof tends to get very hot, this process significantly increases the temperature inside the attic. Properly installed ventilation guarantees comfortable living indoors, and also protects the roof from damage in the winter. Soundproofing is necessary in order to reduce the noise level inside the attic when there is hail, rain or strong gusts of wind outside.

Important! Laying any type of insulation is preferably paired with a person with experience in this matter.

Step-by-step construction of the attic

Well, it's time to consider how you can build step by step this roof personally. To build an attic, you will need some experience in such work. To build an attic is much harder than a regular roof, since the angles of the slopes must be observed. To learn how to build such a floor with your own hands correctly, you need to carefully study the work plan:

Of course, you should start with the development of the floor itself. A specialist can help you with this or, if your computer knowledge is at a sufficient level, you can do everything yourself in a special program. Further, it is imperative for you to correctly calculate the slopes of the roof angles, loads, etc. To do everything correctly, you need to carefully study a book such as "Loads and Effects".

Advice! To understand everything correctly, the book "Loads and Impacts on Buildings and Structures" will help you, ed. Perelmutera A.V. 2007 or ed. Gordeeva V.N. et al., 2008 or 2009, which can be downloaded from http://dwg.ru/dnl/4183

How to make the rafters correctly will help the video:

How to build a truss frame

At this stage, you will have to work hard and for the quality completion of the task, you need at least 3-4 employees. We begin the construction of the roof by laying and fixing the Mauerlats over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house. In this case, a bar with a section of 100x100 mm is used.

This should be followed by installing the frame of the room, its racks will be used as supports for the entire truss structure. The sections of the beam must correspond to the sections of the longitudinal beams, because the racks will rest on them. To begin with, vertical racks must be installed on both sides of the building. They need to be fixed to the longitudinal beams, using self-tapping screws and metal corners.

Advice! A screwdriver will greatly facilitate the process of working on fasteners.

So, we got two arches, a cord should be stretched between them, if its direction is strictly horizontal, then this will mean that everything is done correctly, if not, then one of the arches will have to be shortened a little. Next, with the desired step for the rafters, we put the following arches strictly along the cord. With the help of jumpers we fix the arches, and to fix the jumpers themselves we use special stamped corners.

This is followed by the installation of the upper rafters, and this is quite hard work. They must be installed at certain angles and centering, and this is the whole difficulty. Make a template out of two boards, they should match exactly with the connected rafters we are planning to make. When using this template, you should cut the rafters that are on the ground, and then put them in the right place. Installation of rafters takes place in the same way as in the construction of the interior.

The installation of the truss structure ends with the need to nail the crate. The material from which it can be made is plywood, chipboard or simple boards.

How to equip a room under the roof, you can see about it in the video:

How to insulate a mansard roof with your own hands

After the installation of the battens and rafters is completed, we can proceed to the insulating layer. The vapor barrier is laid on the inside of the roof, for this we attach it with brackets to the rafters. This is followed by the installation of thermal insulation. It is necessary to carefully monitor that the thermal insulation layer is tightly laid on the surface of the rafters. There should be no gaps, otherwise it will lead to very negative consequences in the future. The crate is attached to the thermal insulation with a step of 50 cm.

Waterproofing is laid outside the rafters, its direct function: protection against moisture ingress inside. A roof is laid on the surface of the waterproofing.

Attention! When administering construction works safety precautions must be strictly observed.

How to build an attic with your own hands can be seen in the video:

I think you have noticed that the construction of the attic is quite a serious event. The durability of your creation depends on how responsibly you approach the matter.

There are many examples of what a mansard roof might look like. Among its varieties, everyone can choose something of their own. If you need sufficient daylight, a large window can be installed. Attic shapes can be rounded or with strictly right angles and lines. Whatever choice you make, the approach to this matter must be serious and well thought out.

A house with an attic is not only an additional living space, but also a respectable view of the entire building. Even if the room under the roof is made unheated and is used only in summer time, it still creates a powerful " air cushion", which contributes to the retention of heat inside the capital of the entire building.

And about, then - read on our portal.

Attic project

When drawing up a scheme for building an attic, it is best to do this in different projections in order to see and understand the placement of all elements of the truss system. It is very important to correctly calculate the height of the roof ridge, since the size of the area under it will directly depend on it.


When drawing up a scheme-project for the construction of a mansard roof, you need to calculate the height of the ridge, the ceiling and the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

The minimum height from the floor to the ridge should be 2.5-2.7 m, if this distance is less, then the room is not an attic, it can only be called an attic. This parameter is set by the norms of SNIP.


To ensure that all elements are drawn accurately and have the desired location in common system you need to start from a figure with right angles, that is, a rectangle or square - a section of the created attic room. Based on the sides (height and width of the future room), it will be almost impossible to make a mistake with the angles at which roof slopes are located, with the location of the ridge, rafters and all retaining elements. Determining these parameters, they must immediately be entered into the drawing.

First you need to find the middle of the width of the front wall. Starting from this point, the parameters of the height of the ridge, the future ceiling of the attic, the location of the rack-walls and the size of the cornice overhang are determined.

Due to the fact that each of the structures has a certain number of connecting nodes that have different configurations, it would be nice to draw each of these ligaments separately in order to understand their features of conjugation among themselves of all elements connecting at this point.


Any truss system consists of basic elements and additional ones, which may not be in every design. The main components of the mansard roof are.

  • Floor beams, which are the basis for the rest of the elements of the truss system. They fit on capital walls buildings.
  • Rafter leg, straight in gable system roof or consisting of two departments - in a broken pattern. In this case, the upper rafter is called the ridge rafter, as it forms the highest point of the roof - and the rafters that form the walls of the attic are called side rafters.
  • Ridge board or timber - required element for a gable roof, but not always used when constructing a broken roof model.
  • Mauerlat - a powerful bar, fixed to the main side walls of the building. Rafter legs are installed on this element.
  • Racks are supporting elements necessary to strengthen a gable and broken structure. In the latter case, a ridge and side rafters are attached to it, and in the first case, the stand is a reliable support for a long rafter. In addition, the racks serve as a frame for insulation and sheathing of the attic walls.
  • Diagonal braces or bevels additionally hold the posts or stringers and rafters together, making the structure more durable.
  • beams attic floor are used in all variants of the attic - they connect the racks, and they are also the frame for the ceiling device.
  • Interrafter runs are installed in a broken form of the roof for structural rigidity.

To be sure that the prepared project is developed correctly, you need to show it to a specialist. Only he can determine whether the attic parameters are correctly selected for the width and length of the walls of the building.

Video: professional mansard roof calculation using special software

Parameters of materials for the construction of a mansard roof

If the graphic project is ready, then, starting from the dimensions marked on it, you can calculate the amount of materials needed to build a mansard roof. Materials must be selected according to their characteristics, which must meet the requirements of fire and environmental safety. For wood, it is necessary to provide special treatment with fire retardants, which will reduce the combustibility of the material. So, for the construction you will need:

  • Boards for rafter legs. Their cross section is selected according to the results of special calculations - this will be discussed in more detail below.
  • A beam having a cross section of 100 × 150 or 150 × 200 mm - for floor beams, depending on the selected rafter system and the width between bearing walls, as well as for runs, diagonal legs or valleys - if they are provided for by the design.
  • Beam with a section of 100 × 150 mm or 150 × 150 mm for laying Mauerlat.
  • For racks, a beam of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm is usually used.
  • Unedged board for subflooring and some fasteners.
  • Annealed steel wire with a diameter of 3-4 mm - for fastening together some parts.
  • Nails, bolts, staples different sizes, corners of various configurations and other fasteners.
  • Metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1 mm - for cutting overlays.
  • Lumber for battens and counter battens for roofing material - depending on the type of roofing chosen.
  • - for thermal insulation of the roof.
  • Waterproofing and vapor barrier membranes.
  • Roofing material and fasteners for it.

What section are required rafters

Rafters are roofing elements that will perceive the main external loads, therefore, the requirements for their cross section are very special.

The size of the required lumber will depend on many parameters - on the step between the rafter legs, on the length of these legs between the support points, on the snow and wind load that falls on them.

The geometric parameters of the design of the truss system are easy to determine in the drawing. But with the rest of the parameters - you will have to refer to the reference material and carry out some calculations.

Snow load is not the same for different regions our country. The figure below shows a map on which the entire territory of Russia is divided into zones according to the intensity of the snow load.


There are eight such zones in total (the last, eighth, is more likely to be extreme, and it can not be considered for the construction of a mansard roof).

Now you can accurately determine the snow load, which will depend on the angle of the roof slope. For this, there is the following formula:

S = Sg × μ

Sg- tabular value - see the map and the table attached to it

μ — correction factor depending on the steepness of the roof slope.

  • If the slope angle is less 25° then μ=1.0
  • With a steepness from 25 to 60 ° - μ=0.7
  • If the roof is steeper than 60 °, then it is considered that the snow does not linger on it, and the snow load is not taken into account at all.

It is characteristic that if the mansard roof has a broken structure, then for its different sections the load can have different values.


The angle of the roof slope can always be determined either by a protractor - according to the drawing, or by a simple ratio of the height and base of the triangle (usually - half the width of the span):

The wind load also mainly depends on the region of construction of the building and on the characteristics of its environment and roof height.


And again, for the calculation, the initial data on the map and the table attached to it are first determined:

The calculation for a particular building will be carried out according to the formula:

Wp = W × k × c

W- tabular value, depending on the region

k- coefficient taking into account the height of the building and its location (see table)

The following zones are indicated in the table with letters:

  • zone A - open area, steppes, forest-steppes, deserts, tundra or forest-tundra, open to the winds of the coast of the seas, large lakes and reservoirs.
  • zone B - urban areas, wooded areas, areas with frequent obstacles to the wind, relief or artificial, at least 10 meters high.
  • zone IN- dense urban development average height buildings above 25 meters.

With- coefficient depending on the predominant wind direction (wind rose of the region) and on the angle of inclination of the roof slopes.

With this coefficient, the situation is somewhat more complicated, since the wind can have a double effect on the roof slopes. So, it has a direct, overturning effect directly on the roof slopes. But at small angles special meaning takes on the aerodynamic effect of the wind - it tries to raise the plane of the slope due to the emerging lifting forces.


In the drawings, diagrams and tables attached to them, the sections of the roof that are subject to maximum wind loads are indicated, and the corresponding coefficients for calculation are indicated.

It is characteristic that at slope angles up to 30 degrees (and this is quite possible in the section of ridge rafters), the coefficients are indicated both with a plus sign and negative, that is, directed upwards. They somewhat extinguish the frontal wind load(this is taken into account in the calculations), and in order to level the effect of lifting forces, it will be necessary to very carefully fix the rafter system and roofing material in this area, using additional connections, for example, using annealed steel wire.

After the wind and snow load calculated, they can be summed up, and, taking into account design features created system, determine the cross section of the boards for the rafters.

Please note that the data are given for the most commonly used coniferous material (pine, spruce, cedar or larch). The table shows maximum length rafters between support points, the section of the board depending on the grade of the material, and on the step between the rafters.

The value of the total load is indicated in kPa (Kilopascals). Convert this value to more familiar kilograms by square meter- not difficult. With quite acceptable rounding, you can accept: 1 kPa ≈ 100 kg/m².

The dimensions of the board according to its section are rounded up to standard sizes lumber in a big way.

rafter section (mm)Distance between adjacent rafters (mm)
300 600 900 300 600 900
1.0 kPa1.5 kPa
higher40×893.22 2.92 2.55 2.81 2.55 2.23
40×1405.06 4.60 4.02 4.42 4.02 3.54
50×1846.65 6.05 5.28 5.81 5.28 4.61
50×2358.50 7.72 6.74 7.42 6.74 5.89
50×28610.34 9.40 8.21 9.03 8.21 7.17
1 or 240×893.11 2.83 2.47 2.72 2.47 2.16
40×1404.90 4.45 3.89 4.28 3.89 3.40
50×1846.44 5.85 5.11 5.62 5.11 4.41
50×2358.22 7.47 6.50 7.18 6.52 5.39
50×28610.00 9.06 7.40 8.74 7.66 6.25
3 40×893.06 2.78 2.31 2.67 2.39 1.95
40×1404.67 4.04 3.30 3.95 3.42 2.79
50×1845.68 4.92 4.02 4.80 4.16 3.40
50×2356.95 6.02 4.91 5.87 5.08 4.15
50×2868.06 6.98 6.70 6.81 5.90 4.82
total snow and wind load2.0 kPa2.5 kPa
higher40×894.02 3.65 3.19 3.73 3.39 2.96
40×1405.28 4.80 4.19 4.90 4.45 3.89
50×1846.74 6.13 5.35 6.26 5.69 4.97
50×2358.21 7.46 6.52 7.62 6.92 5.90
50×2862.47 2.24 1.96 2.29 2.08 1.82
1 or 240×893.89 3.53 3.08 3.61 3.28 2.86
40×1405.11 4.64 3.89 4.74 4.31 3.52
50×1846.52 5.82 4.75 6.06 5.27 4.30
50×2357.80 6.76 5.52 7.06 6.11 4.99
50×2862.43 2.11 1.72 2.21 1.91 1.56
3 40×893.48 3.01 2.46 3.15 2.73 2.23
40×1404.23 3.67 2.99 3.83 3.32 2.71
50×1845.18 4.48 3.66 4.68 4.06 3.31
50×2356.01 5.20 4.25 5.43 4.71 3.84
50×2866.52 5.82 4.75 6.06 5.27 4.30

Tools

Naturally, during work, one cannot do without tools, the list of which includes:

  • Electric drill, screwdriver.
  • Building level and plumb line, tape measure, square.
  • Axe, chisel, chisel, hammer
  • Circular saw, jigsaw, hacksaw.
  • Carpentry knife.

Installation will be accelerated if the tools for work are of high quality, and the work is carried out with competent mentors, with assistants, carefully and in stages.

Installation steps

It is necessary to strictly observe the sequence of work - only under this condition the design will turn out to be reliable and durable.

Mauerlat mount

The installation of any truss system begins with fixing a powerful supporting structure at the end of the side walls of the structure. timber - Mauerlat on which it will be convenient to install rafter legs. Mauerlat is made from a high-quality bar with a cross section of at least 100 × 150 mm. It must be laid on the roofing material waterproofing laid along the upper end of the wall (regardless of the material).

Due to the Mauerlat, the load will be evenly distributed along the walls and transferred to the foundation of the building.


The Mauerlat is fixed to the wall with metal studs, which are pre-embedded in a concrete belt or crown running along the upper edge of the wall, or anchor bolts with a diameter of 12 mm. They must go deep into the wall by at least 150 170 mm. If the Mauerlat is installed on wooden wall, then the bars are attached to it with the help of wooden dowels.

Installation of the truss structure

  • Installation of the truss system begins with the installation of floor beams. They can be mounted on the Mauerlat from above if the beams are planned to be taken out of the perimeter of the building and thereby increase the attic area. In this design, the rafter legs are fixed to the floor beams.
Floor beams fixed on top of the Mauerlat (Fig. A)
  • Otherwise, they may fit into waterproofed walls and fastened with corners or staples to the inner edge of the Mauerlat. This option is used when the rafter legs are planned to be fixed directly to the Mauerlat.

Another option - only rafter legs are attached to the Mauerlat
  • Next, you need to find the middle of the floor beam, since this mark will become a guideline for determining the location of the support posts and the ridge.
  • Racks should be located at the same distance from the marked middle of the floor beam. In the future, they will begin to determine the location of the walls of the attic room, that is, its width.
  • Bars for racks should have a cross section equal to the size of the floor beams. Construction sites are attached to the beams with the help of special corners and wooden slips. However, to begin with, they are first baited with nails, then carefully leveled with the help of a building level and a plumb line, and only then they are fixed thoroughly, with the expectation of future loads.

  • When the first pair of racks is installed, they are fastened together from above with a bar, which is called a puff. This puff is also connected to the racks using special metal corners.

  • After fixing the puff, you get a U-shaped design. Layered rafters are installed on it on the sides, which are attached to the floor beam with their second end or are laid on the Mauerlat.
  • A special notch (groove) is cut out on the installed supports for the timber or in the rafters. With its use the rafters are tightly installed on the mauerlat beam, and fastened with metal brackets.

  • For structural rigidity, struts can be additionally installed from the base of the rack to the middle of the installed side rafter. If this seems not enough, and saving material is not in the foreground, then you can strengthen the overall design with additional racks and contractions (they are indicated in the drawing in Fig. A by translucent lines).
  • Further, the middle is calculated on the puff - a headstock will be attached to this place, supporting ridge connection upper hanging rafter subsystem.
  • The next step is to set ridge rafters, which can be attached to each other different compounds- it can be a metal lining or powerful bolts with metal plates or washers.

  • After their installation, a headstock is attached to the ridge and the middle of the puff.
  • Having completed work on one part of the truss system, you need to make all the rest according to the same principle. The distance between adjacent rafters in such a system should be no more than 900 950 mm, but the interval of 600 mm will probably still be optimal - this will give both the necessary rigidity and structural stability, and will be convenient for insulation using standard mats mineral wool. True, this makes the structure heavier and requires more materials.

  • First, the side parts of the complete system are installed, and then the intermediate ones. Between themselves, they are connected by runs, which are installed between the upper ends of the racks and act as spacers. Thus, a rigid structure of the attic rafters will be obtained, in which the frame for wall cladding will already be ready.

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Mansard roof waterproofing

When the truss system is built, you can proceed to finishing it and their accompanying materials.

  • The first coating to be fixed immediately on top of the rafters will be waterproofing and windproof film. it is attached to the rafters with staples and a stapler, starting from the eaves. Cloths are overlapped by 150 200 mm, and then the joints are glued with waterproof tape.
  • On top of the waterproofing, a counter-lattice is stuffed onto the rafters, which will more reliably fix the film on the surface and create the necessary ventilation distance between the windproof and roofing material. The counter-lattice is usually made of boards with a width of 100 150 mm and 50 thick 70 mm.

  • A crate is fixed perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will then be laid. The step between the rails must be calculated depending on the type and size of the sheet roofing material, taking into account the overlap required for it.
  • If chosen soft roof, then plywood sheets are most often fixed to the counter-lattice.

Roofing installation

Roofing material is fixed on the prepared crate or plywood. Its installation usually starts from the roof eaves and runs in order, from one of the edges - depending on the type of roof. roofing sheets overlap mounted. If used for coverage metallic profile or metal tile, then such material is fixed with special self-tapping screws with elastic gaskets. Fasteners are usually matched in color to the roofing material.


The most difficult thing in covering the attic broken roof- this is the transition from layered side rafters to hanging ridge rafters. There may be certain difficulties in the event that ledges are provided on the roof for roofing over balconies or windows.

In addition, if a chimney pipe enters the roof, it requires a separate opening inside the rafter system and the insulation layer, and on the roof, a reliable waterproofing device around the pipe.

How and what is better to cover the roof, you can find out in detail on our portal, there is a whole section in which you can find answers to many questions, including recommendations for reliable insulation of the attic room.

Prices for popular types of corrugated board

Decking

Video: a detailed video tutorial on building a mansard roof

It should be noted that the work on the construction of any roof, and even more so complex as an attic, is not only responsible, but also quite dangerous, it requires special, increased security measures. If there is no experience in conducting such construction processes, then it is better to entrust their implementation to professionals or to perform all actions under the supervision of an experienced craftsman, and with the utmost care and accuracy.

Similar posts