We build an attic floor with our own hands. How to increase the usable area during the reconstruction of a house - add an attic. Stages of building a do-it-yourself attic roof

The attic allows you to significantly expand the usable area of ​​the house. At the same time, the arrangement of the under-roof floor can be carried out even in an already finished building. At the same time, financial expenses will be relatively small, because the basic necessary structures will already be present, and you will be able to cope with all the necessary activities on our own.

First of all, you must make sure that the foundation of the house can withstand the additional load from the attic floor. If necessary, the foundation must be strengthened or an attempt must be made to transfer new loads to a separate foundation. At this stage, you may need professional help.

Solve the issue of attic design. The under-roof floor can have a variety of shapes. Wherein inner space the premises are determined by the features roofing structure.

The attic roof must be designed in a special way. You will have to get rid of old rafters and related materials by replacing them new system, designed taking into account the upcoming loads, angle of inclination and other important design features.

Thus, the truss structure must be calculated and designed in a separate order, specifically for your attic floor.

The most optimal roofing structure for the attic floor is a broken line gable roof. A gable roof will place a much greater load on the walls compared to a lean-to system. However, more convenient option You won’t find a roof for the attic floor.

At the same time, a broken roof will “eat up” the least amount of free space in the attic compared to all other types of roofs.

It is important that the gable roof has a sufficient number of load-bearing supports. Typically, layered rafters are used to construct such a roof. In this case, the elements of the rafter system must rest on load-bearing walls that can normally withstand incoming vertical and horizontal loads.

Before starting construction, decide what area the under-roof floor should have, whether you will insulate it and whether you need to install heating in the attic.

In accordance with your own preferences, draw up (order, find in open sources) an attic project with sketches, drawings, calculations and explanations.

The design documentation should reflect the following important features of the attic:

• the presence of additional partitions and load-bearing walls;
• number of window openings;
• peculiarities internal device roofs;
• view roofing material etc.

After this, calculate the required amount of materials for arranging the attic. It is best to make an attic using the same materials from which the structure itself is built (brick, blocks, etc.).

If the attic is planned to be used exclusively for seasonal residence, you can make it out of more budget materials. Typically, wood is used in such situations. This material fits perfectly with most existing building materials and is perfect for furnishing an attic.

Start setting up wooden frame– roof basics. Select suitable places for placing blocks needed for arranging partitions.

First you will need to lay out the exterior and gable walls. Proceed with the arrangement of the attic roof only after the construction of the house itself has been completed.

To assemble the frame, use high-quality wooden beam dimensions 15x5 cm. When performing each stage of work, be guided by the sketches and drawings you have. It is impossible to explain everything solely in words.

First step

Strengthen the existing structure with slings. To strengthen the purlins, use special support blocks in the shape of the letter U. Blocks are installed and poured cement mortar. This strengthening will prevent further cracking of the walls.

Second step

Build solid gable walls and begin building the attic. After installing all necessary walls start installing the elements of the rafter system.

Third step

Install the rafters according to project documentation and make sure the installed system is reliable.

First you need to install the purlins, and only after that fix the rafters. First you need to lay out the stepped wall slopes, and then arrange the partitions of the attic floor. Be sure to make sure that the elements of the rafter system are evenly positioned.

Fourth step

Align the slopes of the gable walls using a band saw.

Fifth step

Nail batten boards to the rafters to install the insulating material. Secure the waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier, and then lay another layer of boards on top of the waterproofing.

Sixth step

Lay the chosen one on the crate finishing coat. It is better that the finishing roofing material is as reliable and high quality as possible, so that the attic is cozy, warm and safe.

After completing work on the walls and roof of the attic, proceed to insulation and interior design under-roof room.

A wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the attic. For example, mineral wool insulation, expanded polystyrene, all kinds of blocks, etc. are very suitable for performing such work. One of the most preferred thermal insulation materials is fiberboard. Using this material as an example, the procedure for insulating an attic room will be considered.

In the case of using slabs with a thickness of 1.2 cm, the thermal insulation characteristics of such insulation will be similar to the properties of a wall laid in brick, or finishing made of boards about 5 cm thick.

In addition, the slabs have good noise insulation properties. Factory treatment with antiseptic preparations makes the material resistant to adverse external factors, and the relatively low price allows almost everyone to buy such slabs.

Most suitable material for attic insulation - fiberboard

On one side the slabs have a slightly corrugated texture, and on the other they are smooth. To cut slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife. The material is not particularly afraid of temperature and humidity changes. At the same time, work on thermal insulation of surfaces using fiberboard will not take much effort and time.

Finally, you can glue wallpaper to the smooth side of the fiberboard (the smooth side is the front side) or do another finishing at your own discretion.

Walls

Traditionally, thermal insulation work begins with insulating the walls. It is enough to fix the slabs with nails. First, duralumin plates should be placed under the fastener heads. Place the nails themselves staggered.

If the walls are not made of wood, you may need to use other fasteners. Focus on the situation.

To attach slabs to plastered surfaces, you can also use PVA glue or various kinds adhesive mastics.

Ceiling

At the stage of covering the ceiling, try to enlist the support of at least one assistant - the slabs have quite big size and attaching them alone is not particularly convenient.

The cladding is carried out according to an extremely simple scheme: the slab is carefully applied to the fastening point and fixed using T-supports made of boards, nails and duralumin plates. Wear safety glasses at this point.

The floor can be insulated using two methods.

In accordance with the first method, the surface is first covered with a double layer of roofing material, after which fiberboard is fixed on top, and then the finished floor is installed.

In accordance with the second option, fiberboard slabs are nailed to the floor and glued on top of them carpet covering. This coating is very convenient. For additional convenience, it is recommended to impregnate it with a special composition that makes further care behind the carpet are lighter.

Before gluing the carpet, it must be unrolled and kept in the room for 7-10 days. Fiberboard boards are pre-coated with glue. After gluing the fiberboard, you need to additionally press it to the surface using boards and leave to dry for a day.

In conclusion, all you have to do is carry out a number of works on the internal improvement of the attic. Start from the ceiling.

Ceiling

The best option– arrangement of the lung suspended ceiling. Lining is well suited for the construction of such a structure. You can also use hardboard, plywood or other suitable materials.

It is more convenient to first make the ceiling to size, and then attach it to the crossbar of the truss.

Walls

Nail crossbars made of high-quality wooden beams to the rafter posts. Nail the chosen one to the frame finishing material. The best option is wooden lining.

Niches

In places where niches form (and they will definitely be present due to the peculiarities of the roofing structure), you can nail plasterboard or other suitable material, creating compact cabinets for storing various types of accessories.

Depending on the available space on the attic floor, you can arrange a bedroom, study, or children's room. Focus on the specifics of your situation.

Lighting

Consider the procedure for arranging the attic lighting. The best option is to organize local lighting for each corner of the room. This way the interior of the attic will be most expressive.

In matters of furnishing and further arrangement of the under-roof floor, be guided by your needs and capabilities.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself attic construction

Home is a place where each of us feels completely protected. Comfort and coziness are important components for a person’s relaxation, which is sometimes impossible due to lack of square meters. Thanks to new technologies in construction, it has become possible to expand the area of ​​​​houses, usually through extensions, but if the plot of land is small, then the attic would be the best option! Many designers have long considered attic spaces as a good option to increase the space in the house, although it is not always possible to do this without the intervention of builders. This often happens due to the fact that old buildings have low ceiling heights and a flimsy foundation, which must be strengthened for the safety of the future structure and the entire house as a whole.

An original attic can be constructed from a multi-slope sloping roof.

The main advantage of the attic is the ability to build it on any type of house (dacha, cottage, an old house with attic).

The only condition for the manufacture of an attic is the right approach, because there are quite a lot of subtleties that need to be taken into account, so it is better to trust the construction of the attic to professionals or to study all the stages of construction well.

Strengthening the foundation in an old house

The first thing you must do is check the foundation: are there any vertical cracks visible in it, are there any distortions in the windows or signs of destruction of the foundation masonry. If there is, the foundation needs to be restored. The second point is the analysis of the materials from which it is made a private house, because the restoration technology will depend on the material.

Foundation strengthening scheme: A – double-sided; B – one-sided; 1 – foundation; 2 – anchor; 3 – reinforcement mesh; 4 – formwork; 5 – concrete mixture.

1. The foundation in a wooden private house can be completely replaced. To do this, you need to dig under the old foundation (if there is one) and put the house on jacks. Then use iron reinforcement, 3 meters long, to make the initial frame. Next, you should fill the prepared frame with concrete to the required height. With this you can not only strengthen, but also raise the foundation.
2. Complete replacement of the foundation in an old brick or stone house is impossible. Repair is considered a more complex and important process that requires responsibility and caution! Due to the fact that the structure is heavy, it is impossible to dig under a weakened foundation, because severe settlement is possible, which can ultimately damage the structure in an old house. The only option is a monolithic belt (a reinforced concrete structure that helps hold the masonry at the base of the floor).

Creating an attic project

It is well known that no building can be built without a design. Extensions such as attics also require similar projects, but, oddly enough, they have their own characteristics, which are described in GOST. The main requirements for such projects are:

1. Security fire safety. Escape routes should be either through the premises in the old house or in its external part.
2. Height of rooms. The minimum permissible height is considered to be 2.5 m, but exceptions are possible for different roof slopes.
3. The volume of the premises should be calculated from the line dividing the premises into working and living areas. In their absence, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the entire room, taking into account all the slopes.

Removing the roof of an old house

The dismantled roof elements should be carefully lowered to the ground using a rope system.

Now, when we are talking about the process of building an attic, it is necessary to dismantle the roof in the old house in order to build a new attic. You should not avoid this process, because there is a double benefit here: firstly, you can be sure that the attic will be reliable, and secondly, in the future you will significantly save money on.

The first thing to start with is removing the slate or other covering. This process should not cause difficulties, because there is no complex technology involved. The slate should be lowered from the roof without breaking it, because it may be useful in further work. Following the slate, it is necessary to remove the roofing felt, which is held in place by metal strips. Removing the top covering is simple, and one person can do it, but when dismantling the structure itself, it is advisable to have a team, because difficulties may arise during dismantling.

Frame construction and roof construction

When constructing, you need to know the rule of the golden ratio. According to this rule, it becomes clear that, despite the external limitations, a circle can be inscribed in a section. From here you can derive the main stages for construction:

1. Working on the assembly rafter systems. Rafters are the basis of the roof, which consists of a rigid frame that carries the main load.
2. Preparation. Before installing the rafters, you need to assemble a template (it is advisable to do this on the ground, because this can simplify the manufacturing process of some components).
3. Installation. After making the template, it needs to be transferred to the roof itself. The best roof slope is considered to be 45-60 degrees. Reducing the slope may significantly reduce the living area of ​​the premises, but compared to increasing it, this is acceptable. Increasing the angle can make the attic vulnerable to strong gusts of wind.

Installation tools:

• several pencils of different types;
• nails (when working with wooden structures);
• hammers with nail puller;
• saw or chainsaw (for working with timber);
• meter or tape measure;
• set of drill bits with drill;
• Bulgarian;
• level.

After the frame is ready, you should decide on the material, because the lathing process will depend on it. If you use a soft roof, then before working with it, you will need to install OSB sheets on top of the frame. Only after this can you proceed directly to attaching the material itself.

Hydro- and thermal insulation of the attic

When making an attic, it is worth taking into account the fact that the ceiling in it will also be a roof, so warm air which will rise can cause significant damage to the floor, eventually destroying the beams. In order to avoid these unfavorable processes, it is necessary to insulate the attic space during the construction process. To do this, you need to clog all the through cracks with glass wool or fill them with foam. This simple process will help avoid problems with heat retention and waterproofing.

Separately, you need to pay attention to waterproofing, because if problems with steam that rises upward in an old house are easily solved, then during waterproofing it is necessary to install a special film. Due to water contact with insulating materials, their properties deteriorate, so the installation of such a film will be necessary. And so that water does not linger on the film, special outlets are made.

Interior work

When all external works completed, it's time to get started internal works. It is customary to sheathe with plasterboard, because this material is the most accessible and helps to hide inaccuracies. Then there are no new moments, as in the old house, because after installing the drywall, the usual process of wall covering begins (priming, putty, painting, wallpapering), that is, work on the design of the room.

The issue is handled responsibly because the height of the room is not the same, therefore, it is necessary to divide it. Usually, in places where the height is the smallest, a closet is placed, and where the height is greatest, a bed or table is placed. This way you can clearly outline the room into zones!

if you have Vacation home, then you have probably thought about it more than once. This is an excellent alternative to building a second floor. A do-it-yourself attic will allow you to significantly expand the living space, increase the number of rooms, and change the appearance of the house. It can be used as a place for gatherings with friends... How to build an attic and make these dreams come true - read in this article.

An attic or attic floor is a room built under the roof of a house. This concept was introduced by the French architect Francois Mansart, who came up with the purpose of the attic back in the 17th century. And today, attics are actively used to expand living space and increase the comfort of the home.

Do-it-yourself attic construction: stages

In order for the attic floor to become functional, it must be built or converted. Building an attic is difficult technological process, requiring precise calculations, not everyone can do it. The construction of an attic consists of the following stages:

• dismantling the old roofing system;
• strengthening wall structures;
• insulation and waterproofing of the room;
• construction of end walls;

What you need to know before making an attic with your own hands

Exist general rules. It is preferable to plan the installation of an attic at the design stage of the house. This will make it possible to correctly calculate its load-bearing structures and properly organize construction. If a house with an attic is built according to a ready-made drawing, it provides for the use of additional fortifications.

Scheme of the roof of the attic floor, construction of a house made of timber

But also on finished house an extension can be built mansard type. In what case can an attic floor be completed?

If you plan to build this room in a finished house, you need to take into account several important factors. Construction of an attic requires not only adherence to a certain technology for performing the work, but also an assessment of the condition of the house before construction. It is necessary to carry out a calculation that will show whether the house can withstand the addition of a floor. The foundation and walls of the building are checked.

If this is an old house, then the walls of the structure are dilapidated and will not support the weight of the attic floor. During the construction of an attic structure, the old foundation can crack and “float”.

Do-it-yourself construction of an attic floor is also not recommended on buildings made of brick and foam blocks. The reason is that these are very fragile materials from which load-bearing walls cannot be made.

Attic floor superstructure, photo

The construction project must include and. The extension must be well insulated so that it retains heat and the structure itself can breathe.

How to make an attic with your own hands with high quality

The construction of the attic floor requires the use of the following materials:

• wall panels for covering the ends of the building;
• beams for the construction of an attic roof;
• wooden crossbars;
• roofing material for the roof;
• insulation for walls and;
• insulating materials;

Design

The construction of a wooden attic begins with the development of a project. At the design stage, calculations and selection of the roof structure are made.

Roof structure

The constructed room can occupy space above the entire house, or only over part of it. It depends on the type of roof.

The most simple design- single-slope. It is a plane fixed on load-bearing walls different heights, and tilted to one side.

We build an attic with our own hands - a lean-to structure

The most common is a gable roof, which consists of two inclined planes, not aligned in opposite directions.

Cozy country house with a gable roof

There is also a broken attic design. It is used in small houses and consists of two or more parts that form a broken line.

A broken roof is used to increase attic space, or for decorative purposes

Found in construction country houses and a hipped roof.

A roof with four slopes makes attic structure comfortable for living

To give the house original form build complex conical, domed and pyramidal roofs.

Attic with a domed structure

The mansard roof can be of any shape. It is mounted on a special frame, built taking into account the desired parameters of the future room.

As a rule, the roof is laid on a frame with a slope angle of 30-60˚ and combines the roof itself, the ceiling and the walls.

The best option is a gable sloping roof, which provides more living space. For its construction, they are used, which are mounted on the walls of the building. They must be strong enough to withstand vertical and horizontal loads.

We are building an attic - general design structures

Rafter system - roof frame. Subsequently, the sheathing is attached to it and the finishing coating is installed. The building frame is processed by special means for protection against fire and moisture.

If the installation of the attic was not initially included in the house design, the room should also be thermally and sound insulated.

To maintain heat in the house, tiles, slate, and plastic coverings should be used as roofing materials.

Glazing

The phased construction of the roof also includes the installation of windows in the attic floor. They are vertical and pitched. Their angle of inclination must coincide with the slope of the roof. The windows are located at a height of 70 cm, 1 m from the floor.

Installing pitched windows allows more light to enter the room on the top floor, and at night they offer a beautiful view of the starry sky

The choice of windows for a built attic depends entirely on the preferences of the home owner, but we should not forget that they must be of high quality.

Installation of an attic window

When the room is built and the windows are installed, the attic floor is connected to the rest of the living space using a ladder and.

How to properly and efficiently organize the construction of an attic with your own hands - video:

Construction of an attic - options

Behind short time can be erected frame attic with your own hands.

It can be built simultaneously with the construction of a house made of wood or timber.

DIY wooden frame attic, photo

This perfect option for a quick and inexpensive expansion of living space by adding an attic floor.

The log attic looks beautiful and colorful

Also, an additional floor can be added to the finished foundation of a brick house.

Wooden structure on the base of a brick and aerated concrete house

In large houses with a strong foundation, the frame of the structure can be made of metal.

Metal frame of the attic floor

An example of how an old attic can be converted into cozy attic do it yourself - video:

Bottom line

The attic floor in many houses has long ceased to be empty - they began to use it. Completing an attic in a house or in a country house with your own hands will give you the opportunity to get a full second floor, which you can use at your discretion.

Mansard is the roof under which the living rooms. The shape of the attic roof can be different, but most often the attic is equipped under a gable roof. The most rational solution to obtain the maximum usable area of ​​a residential attic is a mansard roof with a broken slope line.

The stages of building a mansard roof with your own hands are in many ways similar to the construction of a regular roof, as are the names of the elements that make up its frame. These include:

• Mauerlat - a support beam that transfers the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
• Floor beams - boards that form the attic floor and the ceiling of the lower floor;
• Racks – vertical supports supporting the rafter system;
• Purlins – horizontal supports for rafters;
• Crossbars are transverse horizontal elements that tighten the roof slopes together, otherwise they are called puffs;
• Rafters - boards that form the main contour of the roof;
• Suspension - a suspended rack that supports the tightening and redistributes the load between the rafters;
• Lathing - boards or sheets of plywood designed to be laid over them roofing and transferring the load to the rafter system;
• Rabs are boards fixed along the axis at the bottom of the rafters and designed to form a roof overhang.

The cross-section of roofing elements is determined using calculation; the article presents the most commonly used materials in private construction.

Construction of a sloping mansard roof and its differences

As already mentioned, a roof with broken slopes is somewhat different from a simple one gable roof. The difference lies in the shape of the opposite slopes: they are not a straight line, but consist of two slopes connected at an obtuse angle. The roof can be either symmetrical or have different shape opposite slopes - it depends on the project.

Thanks to the broken shape, the usable volume of the attic space significantly increases. Bottom part rafters are usually installed at an angle of about 60 degrees to the horizontal, and support posts, supporting these rafters, play the role of a frame for the internal walls. The upper part of the rafters is most often installed at a slight angle, from 15 to 45 degrees - this allows you to save materials, but maintain the functionality of the roof and its resistance to snow loads.

Vertical posts resting on floor beams, purlins and tie rods connecting them form a parallelepiped that limits inner dimensions attics. To give the structure additional rigidity, struts are installed between the floor beams and the lower rafters. After installing the upper rafters, hanging supports - headstocks - are installed to strengthen the truss and eliminate sagging of the crossbars. To further strengthen the lower rafters, they are pulled together with the racks using contractions. The elements are fastened using nails and bolts or studs.

Calculation of the dimensions of the attic roof

The main condition for a comfortable attic installation is the ceiling height - it should not be lower than 2.5 meters. To ensure such a height of the room, the break line of the attic roof must be at a height of at least 2.8 meters, taking into account the thickness of the insulation layer and internal lining attic, as well as the thickness of the finished floors.

Before you start purchasing materials and building a roof, you need to draw detailed drawing, which will indicate dimensions houses, slope line and attic height.

Drawing - dimensions of the attic roof

Technology for constructing a sloping mansard roof

1. Install a Mauerlat around the perimeter of the house. IN wooden buildings serves as a mauerlat top beam or a log. In stone - brick or block - buildings, the mauerlat beams are attached to studs or anchors, fixed in the walls during laying at a distance of no more than 2 meters. Align the Mauerlat along the inner plane of the wall; the remaining wall outside is laid later decorative masonry. Mauerlat timber made of dry wood coniferous species usually has a cross-section of 100 or 150 mm. Sawing off timber required length, straighten the anchor pins if necessary and place the timber on top of them. Tapping lightly with a hammer. Indentations from the studs remain on the timber; a hole of the required diameter is drilled along them. You can also mark the timber using a tape measure, but the likelihood of error in this case is higher. Placed on the wall roll waterproofing, you can use regular roofing felt in two layers. The Mauerlat is put on the studs and the nuts are tightened.

   

2. For floor beams, coniferous timber with a section of 100x200 mm is usually used. The floor beams are placed either on top of the mauerlat, extending 0.3-0.5 meters beyond the plane of the walls, or in specially designed pockets in the masonry. In the first case, the beams are secured using corners and self-tapping screws. To make the ceilings even, the beams are laid in strict sequence: first, the outermost ones in level, then, by pulling the string, the intermediate ones are aligned along them. The pitch of floor beams is usually from 50 to 100 cm, but the most convenient is a step of 60 cm, which allows you to lay insulation boards without trimming. To level the height of the beams, they are hemmed or pads made from boards are used. If the beams are placed in special pockets in the masonry, their ends must be treated with coating waterproofing and wrapped with roofing felt. Align them in the same way.
3. Racks are installed on the outer floor beams. The outer racks are made of 100x150 mm timber; the height and installation line of the racks are determined according to a previously prepared drawing. The racks are leveled using a level and plumb line and temporarily secured with jibs in perpendicular directions - along and across the axis of the roof. This will allow you to install the racks without deviation in any direction. The jibs are made from any board and nailed. A string is pulled between the outer drains and the remaining racks are placed along it with a pitch equal to the pitch of the floor beams, that is, on each beam. All racks are secured in the same way as the outer ones. You should end up with two rows of posts of the same height, running parallel to each other.

   

4. Purlins from 50x150 mm boards are laid and secured on the racks, the purlins are secured to 150 mm nails and to corners using self-tapping screws. Place crossbars made of 50x200 mm boards on the purlins with the narrow side down - this will increase their rigidity. Since there will be no load on the crossbars during operation, such a section of the board is quite sufficient; however, in order to prevent their deflection and increase reliability during the installation process, when installing the crossbars, temporary supports made of boards no thinner than 25 mm are placed under them. The top of the crossbar is fastened with one or two boards - also temporarily, until the rafters are installed. In this case, the boards should not be placed in the middle of the tightening - there they will interfere with further installation, but retreating about 30 cm. After installing the racks, purlins and crossbars, you have a rigid structure that limits the interior spaces of the attic. To increase its strength, it is subsequently secured with struts and contractions.
5. Installed from 50x150 mm boards. First, a template is made from a 25x150 mm board - it is easier and faster to process. A board of the required length is applied to the upper purlin, the shape of the cut is drawn directly on the board and it is cut out. Apply the template to the purlin in the places where the rafters are installed, and if it matches everywhere, then the upper part of all rafters can be made according to the template. The lower part, resting on the mauerlat next to the floor beams, is cut out in place each time. The rafters are secured using corners and self-tapping screws and nails.

   

6. To make the upper rafters, you need to mark the center of the roof. This can be done using a temporary stand nailed to the Mauerlat and an extreme tie from the end of the roof so that one edge of the board runs along the center line of the roof. The rafters are aligned along this edge. Next, prepare a template from a 25x150 mm board, placing it at the edge of the installed board at the desired level and to the purlin on which the lower rafters rest. Mark the upper and lower cuts and cut out the template. Apply it alternately to both sides of the roof, checking how accurately its center is marked. If the rows of racks are made in parallel, then there should be no problems with installing the upper rafters - they will all have the same size.
7. The required number of rafter legs is made according to the template. The rafters are installed on purlins and connected at the top using overhead metal plates or cutting boards with self-tapping screws. In the purlin, the rafters rest on the notches and are secured to the corners. In order for the rafters to stand straight, they are secured using struts, installed with the lower end on the ties. This is how all the rafters are placed. Attach hanging racks - pieces of board 25x150 mm. The upper edge of the board is fixed at the junction of the rafters, the lower edge - to the tie.
8. Place struts under the lower rafters from 50x150 mm boards, resting them with the lower oblique cut against the floor beam and securing them to the corners, and the upper edge is attached to the side rafter leg, nailed onto one or two nails, after which a through hole is drilled and secured to a bolt or stud. After installing the lower struts, remove all temporary supports and posts.
9. Sew up the gables, leaving door and window openings. If the floor beams are laid in wall pockets, fillies are attached to the lower rafters - boards that continue the line of the rafters and form the roof overhang. When laying floors on top of the mauerlat, the beams already protrude to the required distance, and there is no need for fillers.
10. , corresponding to the type of roofing - continuous or sparse. Waterproofing is placed on the sheathing and installation of the roof covering, for example, begins.

A broken attic roof usually does not need insulation - only the walls and ceiling of the attic are insulated. The air space created under the rafters ensures good ventilation of the attic, reduces heating of the attic rooms in the summer and provides additional thermal insulation in the winter. Therefore, when sewing up the gables, it is important to leave ventilation windows in the upper part of the roof, above the ceilings of the attic floor.

Video - instructions for constructing an attic roof

When building a residential building, owners always want to find as much living space as possible, ensuring space and comfort in the house. One great way to make efficient use of your living space is to build a loft space instead of a conventional attic.

The addition of an attic floor is the most rational use of space under the roof. If we add to this the special charm and attractiveness of attic rooms in private homes, we can understand why they became widespread first in the West, and then in other countries.

However, in order for such a structure to bring aesthetics and pleasant feelings to private life, it must be properly equipped to protect it from rain, wind and other negative external factors.

Features of the design of the attic superstructure

Construction mansard building if you have construction skills, it can be done on your own or entrusted to professionals, but in any case, before building an attic floor, you should take care of its design.

The design of the attic superstructure can be different, but you need to know that any, even a light attic, is a power structure that carries significant loads during operation. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to take care of the strength of the load-bearing structures and the foundation of the attic structure. It is on them that the bulk of the load falls. If their strength turns out to be insufficient, then outside houses are erected pillar-columns on a separate foundation, performing additional function supports for the frame of the attic floor.

Support columns can also be used in another situation: when the supporting structures are generally reliable, but are subject to significant wear. This may happen, for example, if you need to build an attic on an old house with your own hands. In this case, worn-out roof structures are dismantled, after which a new frame is built on such supports. In this case, the load-bearing structures of the external walls do not take on the entire load, but only a certain part of it.

The superstructure of a frame attic floor necessarily includes the installation of a strapping belt. Most often it is made from reinforced reinforced concrete beams in the form of a cantilever crossbar, located in the outer walls of the building under the ceiling and monolithically connected to the walls of the attic being built. The function of the strapping belt is to distribute the load of the superstructure onto the residential building, as well as to combine the attic with the main part of the building.

Frame structures the attic and the usual attic are generally identical to each other. In fact, the attic is an attic floor equipped for living, which entails certain changes in the arrangement of thermal and waterproofing, as well as the interior.

How to make a rafter system

The initial stage of attic construction is the installation of the rafter system. This is a very important process that should be given maximum attention when building an attic floor with your own hands. The reliability of the entire structure as a whole largely depends on the strength of the rafters.

When installing a rafter system for the attic floor, climatic and weather factors should be taken into account. Rafter structures must be able to withstand wind and snow loads along with the mass of the roof itself. You should decide on the material for their construction even before building the attic.

The main materials used for the construction of attic rafters are the following:

• black metal;
• thin-walled galvanized profile;
• wood;
• combinations of these materials with each other.

Ferrous metal is the best in terms of strength, but products made from thin-walled galvanized profiles are more convenient to use for installation in difficult areas. They can be installed either by welding or using bolts and rivets. Wood is used where the welding process is impossible, for example in the absence of electricity. Before use, it is treated with an antiseptic - to protect against putrefactive processes, and with a fire retardant - to impart fire resistance. Depending on the situation, there may be a need for various combinations of the listed materials with each other.

The rafters, like other load-bearing structures of the attic (rod trusses, frames, etc.) are attached to the mauerlat, which is located along the perimeter of the building wall. If the gaps between load-bearing elements are significant, then in order to give additional strength, purlins are mounted on them.

Walls and gables of the attic floor

In terms of its design, the attic structure is a kind of box, the formation of which involves wall and roof structures. The choice of material for walls and gables has some important features. They should be mentioned when talking about how to properly build an attic floor.

In particular, if the construction of an attic is planned from the very beginning when building a house, then the foundation of the building is calculated for the corresponding load, which means the choice of material can be anything: concrete slabs, brick, metal constructions etc.

If initially the construction of an attic was not planned, and only then the decision was made to build it, then the material for construction should be light: most often wooden beams, aerated concrete and sip panels are used here.

Wall and pediment structures are closely matched with the walls of the main building. The most commonly used option is the construction of attic walls, which are a superstructure to the load-bearing walls of the building.

Do-it-yourself attic roof installation

The attic roofing pie consists of the following structural parts:

• vapor barrier layer;
• waterproofing material;
• insulation;
• ventilation slot;
• sheathing;
• directly the roofing itself.

Laying the thermal insulation layer can be carried out in two options: either over rafter structure, or under it. In most cases, the first option is preferable.

The best insulation material for flat roofs is polystyrene foam, and for pitched roofs– basalt insulation. Use of materials that are not resistant to fire or exposure high temperatures, is not recommended as it carries a certain risk.

Attic roofs are always pitched, and therefore, to arrange the roof of the attic floor with your own hands, you should prepare slabs basalt insulation. They are laid in several layers with overlap, in order to prevent cold penetration through the free gaps.

In order to protect the insulation from moisture and vapors from the room, with inside a layer of vapor barrier is laid from it. As vapor barrier material You can use regular polyethylene, be sure to glue it with mastic at the joint areas. It will cost significantly more to purchase a special vapor barrier film. True, this material is of higher quality, since it allows vapors to pass both in and out, ensuring the “breathing” of the heat-insulating layer.

Another undesirable process from which the attic roofing should be protected is condensation due to temperature changes. This can lead to rotting processes inside the layers of the roofing cake, as well as to wetness of the walls of the building. To protect against condensation and getting wet, a ventilation space is installed between the roof covering and the insulation, and a layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the insulation. For this purpose, special “breathing” membranes are used. Their structure is different from vapor barrier film, and one material cannot be used instead of another.

Selection of roof windows

There are two types window designs for the attic: vertical and inclined. Sloping windows are located in the plane of the slopes and provide significantly greater illumination, but at the same time, snow can accumulate on them in winter. Therefore, the choice of one or another type of window structure largely depends on climatic and weather conditions.

Vertical windows have special ebbs at the bottom to drain water, and inclined windows are equipped with a system of gutters through which water flows from the roofing. The specific arrangement of windows in the attic is determined by the design of the roof and the preferences of the home owners.

Interior

The final stages of arranging a beautiful and stylish attic are its interior decoration And decorative design. In general, there are a lot of options here, and a lot depends on individual preferences. However, some general recommendations Regarding the interior design of the attic, it should still be taken into account.

The height of the attic wall structures is usually small compared to the roof slopes. If it does not exceed 0.5 meters, then “dead” zones appear in areas near the walls, which are difficult to use rationally. They can contain bedside tables, small built-in wardrobes or shelves. If the height of the walls is 0.8-0.9 meters, then you can place a bed in this place, and if the height is more than 1.3 meters, you can arrange work area with a table.

IN attic room You can equip a bathroom and toilet. When choosing a location for them, you should again take into account the rational use of living space as much as possible.

The main nuances associated with the construction and arrangement of an attic structure, as well as its internal design, should be thought through when drawing up a project, before building on the attic. By approaching the construction process wisely, you can get excellent replacement second floor, as well as a cozy place to relax and have a good time.