Finishing a steam room in a bathhouse. Finishing a bathhouse with clapboard: how to properly line the walls inside bathhouses. Prices for lining

Everyone dreams of having their own steam room; building it is not difficult, but finishing it is difficult. I will tell you how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards and clearly demonstrate all stages of the work with photographs.

Briefly about the bath

Before we tell you how to line a bathhouse from the inside with clapboard , a few words about what I have already done:

Interior work

Lathing

Now I’m telling you how to line a bathhouse with clapboard from the inside .

You need to start with the sheathing:

• Beam. We use only well-dried material. I did not treat it with an antiseptic, because... the clapboarded wood will still heat up, and all the chemicals will creep out.

Note! Since the task was to build a budget bathhouse and use it once a week, it was decided to save on impregnation. After 6 days of inactivity, the wood dries perfectly.

• Screws. Since I have gas silicate, which is quite soft, I used copper-plated screws to secure the sheathing to the walls. They are correctly called - roofing copper screw A2, and come complete with a copper rubberized washer.

Note! I placed this washer between the wall and the beam to provide a ventilation gap.

• Ventilation gap. This is provided by the washer. First, I drilled the beam, inserted the screw, then put on the washer and only then applied it to the wall and tightened it with a screwdriver.

Important! I did the same procedure with the ceiling. Additionally, I taped all the joints with tape, which I bought along with the foil.

Don’t forget to carry out all work with the sheathing with a plumb line and level in your hands - the assembled sheathing must be installed perfectly level, so as not to listen to reproaches from relatives later, such as: couldn’t you ask how to sheathe a bathhouse with clapboard evenly and without jambs?

Fitting the lining

I give advice on how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboards without excess dust - carry out the entire cutting process outside the room. I did the same with the clapboard and brought it inside, already cut to the size of the walls.

1. Kleimers. Best to use hidden installation, then the lining inside will look very good. Plus, metal is a good conductor of heat, and you can easily get burned by leaning on nails and screws. This situation will not arise with clampers;
2. Nail finisher. Because I spent money on roofing fasteners, but they are not cheap - almost 8 rubles apiece with a spacer washer, it was decided to fasten the clamps with nails;

1. Lining. Just like everyone else, I thought for a long time about what clapboard to cover the bathhouse with. , but in the end I settled on . It smells nice and feels very good;
2. Nails. The included nails for the clamps turned out to be too soft, so I bought 3 packs of new, more durable ones.

Installation

Let's get started:

• First bar. I nail the first one into the timber. Using a hammer, I deepen the caps inward for safety;

• Second plank. I attach it to the clamp, fitting it tightly along the entire length;

• Third and next on the list. Methodically, without haste, I fasten all the other boards to the end of the wall;

• End board. I fasten it with nails, having previously adjusted it to size.

So, step by step, we line the bathhouse with clapboard. It turns out that visible fasteners are only in the corners of the outer planks - the rest of the lining is installed.

Pay special attention to the junction points wooden products to the stove - in this case it is better to play it safe than to do it at random.

There were also no special problems with the ceiling - the technology is the same as on the walls: the first and outer ones are secured with nails, all other boards between them are fastened with clamps.

My story about how to properly line a bathhouse with clapboard would be incomplete without mentioning the insulation of the roof from the attic side. Everything here is quite simple - using ISOVER slabs, I laid them between the beams that hold the boards of the rough ceiling.

A couple of annoying mistakes

1. First mistake. There is no honey without tar... Same with me - I didn’t take into account that moisture accumulating on the foil under the lining flows down, but I didn’t leave gaps so that it would flow onto the floor, and in winter the boards began to become damp. This was not the case in the summer, but in winter period appeared as dark spots.

The question was resolved simply:

• I trimmed the bottom edge with a circular saw and removed 4 cm;
• I drilled holes along the bottom edge just above the bottom beam of the sheathing.

I’ll tell you more about this error in the video in the article.

1. Second mistake. The sheathing should have started from the ceiling, but I started from the walls. This saves material and makes the work easier.
2. Third mistake. Still, a gas silicate block is not the best solution for a bathhouse if it remains unfinished for a long time. In my case, it began to shrink, so something needs to be decided in the near future.

In conclusion

Actually, this is where my story about how to line a bathhouse with clapboard with your own hands has come to its logical conclusion. There are plans to finish the dressing room and decorate the facade with something more interesting, for example, imitation timber or eurolining. If you are interested in how to line a bathhouse with eurolining, follow my publications, I’m sure you will like it.

The main functional room of any bathhouse will be the so-called steam room or, as it is also called, steam room. Its high-quality arrangement makes it possible to make health procedures more effective, high-quality and enjoyable for people and significantly increase the popularity and demand for the bathhouse as such. And it’s simply impossible to imagine that a Russian bathhouse does not have a steam room.

Device Features

Device of this premises It should not only be simple, but also at the same time as comfortable and convenient as possible for those who will use it. The most important thing is that it should contain required quantity shelves and racks. It should be said that the stove is the main component of any steam room, because it is responsible for ensuring the correct microclimate, as well as the comfortable required temperature in this room. Today in the steam room it is possible to easily install any type of stove: stone, electric, or made of metal and brick.

If we talk about shelves, they are formed from boards and left small space between them, thereby forming a drain. By the way, it is better to use any wood for shelves, except coniferous species. Shelves should be fixed so that there is as much free space as possible and there is an opportunity for quick cleaning after visiting this room. Under them you can place various kinds of bath accessories such as various ladles, buckets, and brooms. In general, the distance between the floor and the shelves should be maximized, because cold air masses accumulate precisely under them.

The steam room must have ideal proportions so that it warms up well to the required temperature level.

It is best to design an option with an area of ​​2 by 2.5 meters. Its height should be 2.10 - 2.15 meters. This size is enough for both a brick and a wooden steam room.

Its walls must also be covered with special insulation materials, which will retain heat inside for a long time and at the same time under the influence high temperatures will not emit harmful substances into environment. If speak about floor covering, then it is usually made either from boards or from tiles, which are quite easy to care for.

The door must have minimum dimensions, because it can become a source of additional heat loss. It is better if it is located near the stove. It should not be constipated and should be easy to open and close tightly. The latter is extremely important due to the fact that there are often cases when such doors jam due to swelling of the wood due to high humidity. There cannot be any windows in such a room at all, but if you still want to make them, then they should be very small, blank and located as high as possible to the ceiling.

Required element, without which efficient use such a room is impossible, is ventilation system, which will remove excess moisture and provide a constant flow of fresh air.

Materials

Such a room can be built from various materials - brick, stone (natural), foam and gas blocks. But of course, the best material there will be a tree. As a rule, rounded or planed logs are taken for the steam room. There are often cases when timber can be used. Glued laminated timber can also be a good solution due to its maximum moisture resistance. But it also has a corresponding cost.

The most convenient to lay and the most affordable is profiled timber, which is also quite resistant to various types of deformation. Wood species such as aspen, birch or larch and linden are ideal for constructing a steam room. The mentioned species of these trees do not emit any resins at all. You must be extremely careful if you decide to choose pine. It is better to make only walls from this wood, but it is better to finish them inside from non-coniferous wood.

Also, for the steam room in general, linden is an excellent solution, because it has wonderful cleansing and diaphoretic agents. In addition, this material has excellent strength, durability and hardness, and its price is attractive.

Design and calculation

You need to create a project before starting construction work. Sizes will vary taking into account a large number of nuances. First, you need to understand how many people will be steaming here at the same time. The overall dimensions of the room will directly depend on this indicator. If we talk about standards, then at least 0.7 m2 should be allocated for each person.

To calculate the height of the room, you can select the height of the tallest family member and add 20 centimeters. When making calculations, you need to understand that the ceiling will receive additional insulation

, which means that its level will be slightly lower than originally expected. Making the steam room too high is also not the best solution, as this can cause not only insufficient heating, but also unnecessary energy consumption to compensate for this deficiency.

Hot air masses will simply go to the ceiling and will not have any necessary effect on those in the steam room. It is best if the height of the steam room is 2.2-2.4 meters.

Placement of people in the sauna can be either lying down or sitting. The sitting method of arrangement in the steam room will make it possible to make it more compact. The shelves on which you are supposed to lie require significantly more space. In this case, the minimum length will be 20 centimeters greater than the height of the tallest family member. It is also necessary to work out the issue of the ventilation system. Since this room is not a wash room or a rest room, so much steam will accumulate here that in the presence of permanent and constant humidity, all wooden elements

will quickly become unusable, and this will also cause the formation of mold, which will make the microclimate unfavorable for humans.

Where to put the oven?

Another important question that we will try to answer in this article. If you refer to SNiP number 41-01-2003, then the stove in the bathhouse should be located at a distance of at least 32 centimeters from wooden structures. If the walls are protected by materials that are not subject to combustion, then the distance can be reduced to 26 centimeters. These standards are very important, since any steam room has its own central element - the stove. Its location is very important, because the effectiveness of the entire system will depend on it. As a rule, it is installed next to external wall , which allows you to remove the chimney pipe through the wall on the street without damaging it attic floor

and roofing. But there is an option to create a traditional design with, passing through the entire construction of the bathhouse. To do this, a special hole is made in the ceiling, through the attic, which is passed through the roof. After which the gaps between the pipe and the roofing material are covered with waterproofing. This option is more difficult to implement in terms of chimney installation. But if you give it preference, it will significantly save space in the steam room due to the distance from the wall. But here we should not forget that the oven should be compact.

By the way, on the market today you can find quite small options that are highly effective and will be an excellent solution for any steam room.

Tools and accessories

In order to make a steam room, we will need:

• timber for the construction of walls and partitions;
• concrete-based mortar;
• clay, sand, crushed stone;

• reinforcement for creating a foundation;
• boards for creating formwork;
• waterproofing materials;

• fire brick;
• tile;
• lining;

• mineral wool or any other insulation;
• slate and galvanization;

• antiseptics;
• lamps, cables, distribution boxes, switches and fans.

If we talk about tools, you will need:

• shovel or small excavator;
• saw (electric or gasoline);
• axe;

• electric drill;
• hammer;
• electric screwdriver;

• construction stapler;
• caulk;
• mallet;
• level and rule.

Once everything mentioned above is at hand, you can proceed directly to construction.

Installation and insulation

After the project has been completely drawn up, and the calculations you have made have been checked for inaccuracies and errors, you can begin building the foundation of the future steam room and walls with your own hands. The following step-by-step instructions will help with this.

So, the first stage of work will be laying the foundation. To do this, you must first dig a pit in the shape of a rectangle. Its depth should be at the level of 1/2 freezing of the ground. The height above the ground should be 17-19 centimeters. If there is no base, then you can raise the structure by 60 centimeters. It is also important that the width of the foundation is 10 centimeters greater than the width of the beam itself. After this, we install the reinforcement on which the first crown will be attached. Next, we make the formwork and fill the foundation with prepared concrete. If bubbles appear during pouring, remove them using a special tool. Now we dig under the sink drain hole with dimensions 1.8 x 1.8 x 1.5 m and its walls are filled with concrete.

After this, the foundation must be allowed to settle for 6-7 days. In the upper part it is necessary to make ventilation holes, which should be located on walls opposite to each other. At the next stage, we build a blind area around the foundation. To create it, take clay and mix it with crushed stone, pouring a layer 5-10 centimeters thick.

Now we need to lay roofing felt around the perimeter of our foundation. It will be best if it is laid in several layers. It should extend beyond the dimensions of the base by 50 millimeters. To build the walls, you can use factory wall kits if desired. You can also cut the timber into pieces of the length we need. They require special tenons and grooves to be made. After this, we make markings in the initial row in accordance with the installation of the reinforcement and drill holes 25 millimeters deep, after which we can begin laying the first crown of the bathhouse walls. To do this, we place it on the pins, connect the beams, and then seal the connection points.

Then we lay the second row, drill holes that will go half the height of the first row. Now we take out the second row and drive dowels into the holes of the first one at 1.5 parts of the height of the beam. After that we stuff next row. Now we connect the crowns with dowels, and insulate the grooves with jute. We also leave room for doorways. And thus we build a bathhouse with a steam room up to a certain height level.

Now we cut into the upper crown beam floors, and at their lower ends - rafter ends. The upper ends should be connected in the ridge. We take steps of 1–1.2 meters between the rafters, after which we nail the ridge board and sheathing to them. A vapor barrier and waterproofing, which can be foil, is laid on top, after which we place it on top of any roofing material, for example, slate. It is also worth considering the presence of embedded pipes in advance. After this we can say that the frame of the bathhouse with steam room is ready.

Ceiling: proper ventilation

In order to reduce high humidity in a room of this type, as well as prevent the appearance of mold and mildew, the steam room in the bathhouse must have a truly effective and reliable mechanism exhaust ventilation. Such a system will be the best solution for timely withdrawal excess moisture and supply clean air from the street. According to experts, it is best to install a supply and exhaust ventilation mechanism in rooms of this type, which will have a built-in air duct.

In this case, the supply channel should be located near the firebox in the lower part of the steam room. In this case, the hood should be installed in the upper part of the opposite wall, almost under the ceiling. The size of the exhaust duct should be twice the diameter of the supply duct.

And you can regulate air flows using the most common built-in valves.

Floor

Installation of the floor can be done immediately after the frame of the room has been built. If we are talking specifically about a steam room, then the floor level here should be significantly higher than in other rooms. Let's look at how to lay the floor correctly.

We place logs made of wooden beams on an already prepared foundation, and then nail boards onto them. The distance between them should be 6-9 millimeters, and the distance between the floor and the ground should be at least half a meter. After this we make holes for ventilation.

It should be said that a concrete floor will be more durable and stronger, but its cost will be significantly higher. In the washing room, where the shower cabin will be located, and the steam room, we dig a pit 12 cm deep to drain the water. We make its walls from concrete mortar. We lay a metal sheathing on top. From here the water will flow into the sewer drain. When it is ready, we make a screed. First, we need to mark the points to which the floor level will be raised, after which we measure the distance from them to fill the screed. Now you need to level the ground and remove a little of the top layer, after which we pour a layer of sand up to 45 centimeters, moisten it with water and compact it well, making a slope towards the drain.

Now we pour the first five-centimeter layer of concrete mortar. After the screed has dried, we roll out glass insulation or roofing material on it, and then lay a layer of thermal insulation half a centimeter thick. On top of all this we put a metal mesh reinforcement, on top of which we pour a second concrete layer already 10 centimeters thick. Now we level the concrete and remember the slope of the drain. Tile or other floor covering is laid on top of the entire structure.

Walls: “pie”

If the walls of the steam room are made of foam blocks or using the so-called frame technology, then they require additional insulation. In fact, inside we should get a thermos where cold air will not enter and which will retain the heat emanating from the stove. This will make it possible to significantly save resources that will be spent on heating, as well as maintaining a certain temperature regime. Essentially, you need to create a “pie” of the wall. It is called that because the materials are laid in layers, which makes it look like a pie.

Before starting, a hole is made in the wall where the stove will be installed. After this, a windproof film is fixed to the walls and bars 5 centimeters thick and 4 centimeters wide are screwed on. The step between them should be equal to the width of the insulation tiles. After this, basalt insulation, which belongs to the category of non-combustible, is placed quite tightly between the mentioned bars. Now you need to nail the waterproofing to the bars. It is best to do this using galvanized staples. As protection, you can use one of three options:

1. waterproofing bath membrane;
2. high density foil;
3. penoizol based on foam type foil.

Strips of one of these materials are nailed using the same staples with an overlap of at least 15 centimeters. All joints must be sealed using a special adhesive tape, and only then slats with a thickness of 25 mm and a width of about 40 mm are fastened with galvanized screws every 70 centimeters from each other. Now we install the sheathing evenly using a laser level.

Its installation starts with 2 slats along the edges, between which a string is pulled, which serves as a guide for nailing other sheathing elements. After which the clapboard board is already attached. To secure it, you can use special galvanized nails. After this, all that remains is to make holes in the wall for ventilation, which must be masked with plugs or dampers.

If necessary, you can install a fan in one of the ventilation holes.

Installation of windows and doors

As mentioned above, construction separate steam room does not provide for the installation of windows, so artificial lighting will be more than enough. By the way, we should not forget that all windows require thermal insulation of the blocks, which will entail additional costs. Alternatively, you can install 1 blind window measuring 50 by 50 centimeters. In order to make the steam room really high-quality, you should definitely buy the best double-glazed windows that have maximum efficiency in matters of heat and sound insulation.

Naturally, you need to make doors in the steam room. It should be understood that the door frame is at a level lower than usual, and the threshold is slightly higher. This solution will reduce heat loss and prevent drafts from forming. Optimal height The threshold is considered to be thirty centimeters. The door is installed in such a way that people entering it cannot get burned by the material heated during the operation of the steam room.

Wood has good thermal conductivity, which is why it is better to sheathe the door on both sides with foil and special insulation. And on top they can be disguised with the same clapboard.

An alternative to this solution would be to simply purchase and then install glass doors. Outwardly they look great and will be perfectly used in any conditions that may arise.

Finishing and arrangement

For finishing you should choose suitable tree. We are talking about oak, cedar, larch or linden. The sheathing should not be made of resinous species such as pine. Before installation inside, it is better to treat the wood with oily substances. Such impregnation will reduce the hygroscopicity of the material. Decorating with clapboard starts from the ceiling. It is mounted on the sheathing using a tongue and groove mechanism or secured using clamps.

When the lining is mounted on the ceiling, work begins with the walls. The covering will go in parallel with the installation of shelves and will occur in a certain sequence. First, use a level to mark the surface of the walls. At the same time, markings are being made on how the sunbeds with all the elements, including backrests, will be placed.

After this, the side and front parts of the shelves are covered. After this, the remaining walls are sheathed. Now all that remains is to install the skirting boards, both ceiling and floor. Sheathing parts are usually used only in special case, if at the joints it fits one under the other very sloppily. It should be said that this point must be approached carefully, because moisture may begin to collect in the gaps, which may cause the development of fungus and mold in these places.

Already at the end of the work, doors are installed, as well as various lamps and fixtures. The wires must be carefully insulated so that moisture does not get on them and a short circuit does not occur with subsequent fire.

In addition, after this you can, for example, make a couple of hangers or additional shelves to place some accessories.

It should be noted that the most beautiful bathhouse It works for those who want to introduce some of their own ideas into it and do something non-standard. And a steam room is a room where any material can become a work of art, be it wood, stone or metal. The main thing is that your imagination and finances allow you to realize your ideas.

You can make a steam room with your own hands, although this requires a considerable amount of knowledge. At the same time, if you do everything really correctly, then you can be sure that it will turn out just as good as if you ordered the development of the project and its subsequent implementation from professional builders. Moreover, technology self-creation This kind of construction has already been tested by more than one person and has proven its high quality and viability. In general, if you want to build a steam room with your own hands, then thanks to the knowledge described above, you can implement such an idea without any problems.

The use of a bathhouse has long been considered not only a hygienic, but also a health-improving procedure. People who visit the sauna are less likely to suffer from colds, cardiovascular diseases and diseases nervous system. Considered traditional wooden sauna: the walls of the steam room “breathe” in it, which contributes to improved ventilation of hot air.

Peculiarities

Today there are many different options interior decoration baths are gas silicate blocks, and brick, and so far only gaining popularity, magnetite. However, the most suitable finish continues to be considered natural materials, namely, made of wood. Thanks to wooden lining, it becomes possible to create the specific microclimate and cozy atmosphere necessary for a bath or sauna. When planning to cover a bathhouse with clapboard yourself, you need to take into account not only all the nuances, but also carefully follow the rules for such finishing indoors.

Selection of lining and calculation of area

For quality work, it is necessary to select the right material and calculate its quantity.

It is necessary to sheathe the inner surface of a room such as a bathhouse only with materials that can withstand:

• large temperature changes;
• high humidity;
• constant contact with water and various substances.

Board type and material grade

Today's market building materials filled with a variety of lining from many manufacturers. Lamellas are produced both Russian and foreign. Eurolining is produced with various options profile sections. Also, wooden lining can vary in the surface quality of the back and front sides of the board, the shape of the lock and its dimensions, the type of material and other equally significant parameters.

Most often, lining of several popular profiles is used.

• Eurolining, which has clear sharp edges and forms seams visible to the naked eye when covering.
• Softline with more rounded corners.
• Calm. The seam with this finish is almost invisible, because it does not have recessed shelves. It can imitate timber and have both quite sharp and smoother rounded edges.

• A lawnhouse, the front side of which is not smooth, but with various patterns. The design on the lamella of the lawnhouse is applied using figured milling on more expensive materials and using hot stamping on cheaper ones.
• Blockhouse (siding).
• Double-sided lining. Both the groove and the tenon of such a board are located exactly in the middle, so both sides turn out equally smooth - you can choose between them. However, this material has almost no ventilation (the ability to “breathe”), so it is not very well suited for interior decoration of such wet areas like a bathhouse, swimming pool or sauna.

To determine the type of purchased lining, you can use the European DIN standard. The difficulty is that many manufacturers use various GOSTs and even their own specifications, so first of all it is necessary to look at the surface quality of the material itself, and not at the markings. All lining is produced using the same equipment and using the same technology, so the grade of material is determined during inspection after the completion of the manufacturing process.

• Premium (or extra). Almost perfect quality of the lining. Neither branches nor cracks are allowed on the slats. A light blue tint, small chips, roughness and imperfections are possible only on the inside.
• Class A. The branches on such a board should not be more than 1 cm in diameter and should not occur more often than once in an area one meter long. Cracks, if any, should be very small and, of course, not through. It is advisable that the manufacturer putty them himself. All other defects are allowed only on the inside.
• Class B. Knots in diameter can be no more than a third of the lamella, but in any quantity. The presence of through cracks and open pockets is also allowed.
• Class C- this is all the remaining lining, on which blue spots and a large number of large knots are visible. There may even be gaps on the surface of the side that is visible after installation. However, it is believed that lining of this class cannot be used for finishing walls.

Wood

A bathhouse is not only a steam room, but also a wash room, a dressing room or even a swimming pool. For each room it would be more appropriate to choose wood of a certain species.

Wood is divided into two categories:

• coniferous: pine, spruce, cedar;
• deciduous: linden, aspen and others.

One of the most popular material options for eurolining is linden board. Linden is quite durable, does not change the fiber structure for a long time and is resistant to various negative factors. The atmosphere of the linden bathhouse is full of freshness and cleanliness.

Aspen lining is easy to work with; time only makes this material stronger. If the surface of such a lining darkens, it is easy to return it to its original appearance by sanding the surface. Both linden and aspen are used for finishing the hottest and wet room in saunas - steam room.

It is also possible to use cedar for its finishing, however, due to the fact that cedar heats up very quickly, discomfort may occur when touching the sun loungers and walls made of this material. Coniferous trees are used mainly to cover the washing room or dressing room. Pine and spruce release resin abundantly and, like cedar, have a high heating rate, but using this material will save money and choose from an extensive decorative range of linings. It should be noted that coniferous wood must first be deresined in order to avoid a large number of stains on the walls.

Mounting options

There are two options for placing elements when tiling a sauna. You can upholster a wall with eurolining by placing the boards both horizontally and vertically. For each of the options, a certain type of frame is required, which is also made of timber connected to each other with ordinary nails. Each method has both advantages and disadvantages.

The advantages of the horizontal option are:

• reducing the chance of water getting into and stagnating in the seams, since the fastening is carried out with the tenon facing up, which allows the water that has already got inside to drain down;
• the frame for this method of fastening the lining is made vertically and allows air to circulate more evenly in the room;
• even the highest quality wood is subject to rotting processes, and the horizontal method of attaching the lamellas will allow you to replace only the material that is located below and is more damaged, without dismantling the entire wall;
• When laying the lining horizontally, drying out of the wood is less noticeable, which will inevitably occur with any type of material.

Vertical finishing of a sauna with eurolining is faster and easier than horizontal finishing. This method also has its advantages:

• rapid flow of moisture along vertical seams in the wall;
• when using the tongue-and-groove system, the risk of water stagnation and destruction of material fibers from constant humidity is reduced;
• This finish better maintains the high temperature of the room.

Step-by-step instruction

Before you begin the sheathing itself, you need to calculate the area of ​​the surface to be sheathed and choose exactly how the lining will be attached to the walls: horizontally or vertically. The floor and ceiling of the sauna can be insulated from the inside using cotton wool or another type of insulation. Any insulation must not only be correctly selected and installed, but also covered on top with a layer of insulating material with foil to avoid exposure to moisture. Such material must be nailed to the wall before installing the sheathing. It is also necessary to install a ventilation system and a stove, and only then can a frame be nailed to the walls on which the eurolining itself is attached. First of all, they install the sheathing and cover the ceiling with clapboard, and only then they begin to work on the walls.

Lathing

After all preparatory work you can proceed to creating wooden frame- laths. First you need to carefully prepare the timber itself. It can be either planed or left in its original form, the main thing is that the timber is treated with impregnations. First of all, the racks are attached - they are installed perpendicular to the future location of the lining. In some cases, it is necessary to clearly calculate the location of the beam in advance, since vertical and horizontal layouts can be combined on the same wall. The profile can be fastened with ordinary nails if the bathhouse frame is also made of wood, but it is better to mount it to the wall using dowels. It should be noted that the length of the beam needs to be made slightly longer than the length of the insulation nailed to the wall.

Next, the racks are mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. For more accurate calculations, you can use a plumb line, tape measure or level. If the wall is not level enough, you can lay down an additional piece of board or use a hanger for the frame made of plasterboard slabs.

Ventilation

For the full functioning of a bathhouse or sauna, as well as for safety reasons, good ventilation is required.

The technology for its installation is as follows.

• Already during the installation of the sheathing, it is necessary to mark in advance those places that are intended for ventilation holes. One hole is placed near the ceiling, and the second - no higher than 150-300 mm above the floor level. It is better if the second hole is located near the stove.
• For the air duct, it is better to use aluminum corrugation with a cross-sectional diameter of 100 mm. Holes for installing corrugations should be placed in easily accessible places in order to be able to quickly adjust the flow of fresh air.

• The use of polystyrene foam as a thermal insulation material when installing ventilation is strictly not recommended. It is better to use non-flammable materials, for example, basalt (mineral) wool.

Insulation

It is necessary to dwell in more detail on the insulation of walls. The bathhouse is constantly high humidity requires special fastening and multi-layer insulation.

First, you need to lay waterproofing material on the wall so that moisture does not begin to destroy the insulation. You can nail the waterproofing to the wall itself or additionally fix it on the wall surface wooden slats. The wool itself must be laid between the frame (beams) of the sheathing with an overlap of 10 mm.

On top mineral wool it is necessary to lay a foil film, which not only protects the insulation from moisture and steam, but also reflects the escaping heat into the room. Such a vapor barrier can be attached with a construction stapler directly to the overlapping beams of the sheathing.

You can also use more in a simple way and insulate the walls of the sauna using already foiled basalt wool, which is laid with foil to the lining.

Installation

Fastening eurolining in baths and saunas is done only using a hidden method. Firstly, the hardware that attaches the slats to the frame gets so hot that it can cause pain when you touch its head. Secondly, the fastening metal can rust from constant contact with water and damage the surface of the lamella. And finally, thirdly, these fasteners look too sloppy, especially when using very light-colored lining.

The lining of the steam room in the bath should always be done on the ceiling first. It starts from front door. The lining is attached either with nails or with the help of a clamp, since a small finishing nail will not be able to withstand the weight of the lamella hanging on the ceiling in this position. A clamp is a kind of clamp (clothespin, bracket), which is made of stainless materials and better preserves the lining board from damage during installation. The last boards are quite difficult to nail into a groove or place on clamps, so you can use a hidden nail without a head. When driving such a nail, it is very easy to hit the board itself and damage it, so you need to use a hammer. It is necessary to leave a gap of 40-50 mm at the joints with the walls so that air circulates freely and the lamellas, slightly swollen from humidity, do not break each other.

The cladding of the walls of the steam room is carried out by analogy with the cladding of the ceiling. It is better to start from the corner, leaving a gap of 10-30 mm near the floor to avoid rotting of the boards at the junction with the floor. It is not worth joining individual parts of the lining closely when finishing a room such as a bathhouse. It is better to leave a small margin so that when swelling occurs, the entire wall cladding does not deform and “wave” due to constant contact with water.

The gap is made as follows:

• Initially, the lamella is driven all the way into the groove of another lamella already installed, small marks are made along the seam line of the connection of the two boards with a sharp object;
• the board is slightly removed relative to the marks made and leveled;
• the algorithm is repeated with each subsequent lamella;
• The joints of the lining will look more neat if you maintain equal indentations both on all walls and on the ceiling lining.

Using slats you can also sheathe doorways, cutting the boards to the required length. The openings themselves can subsequently be framed with platbands.

The window slope is installed using starting bar attached to a plastic lamella. In this case, the wooden lining is attached with one end to a wooden beam, and the remaining end to the plastic. This simple option is suitable for metal-plastic windows. You can also use a more complex method: install a separate frame on the slope and lay it on it wooden lining. This method is good for wooden windows, having decent depth. If the slope of the wall is not very wide, you can simply cover it with a wooden strip.

The finishing of the washing room is carried out similarly to the finishing of the steam room, however, it is necessary to fix the lower ends of the boards (or the boards themselves, which are laid near the floor with a horizontal installation method) at a height of at least 30 mm from the floor. You can also use PVC lining or plastic panels, which are decorated with wood to create a unified design. Tile and ceramics are also perfect as alternative option finishing.

Installing a dressing room is no different from installing a wash room, but lining cannot be installed near the firebox. It is better to line the walls near the stove with brick or stone. Sheets of metal or other non-flammable coating are often used. The chimney pipe must not be connected to anything other than a metal screen fixed to the ceiling. It is advisable to wrap the chimney behind the screen with mineral wool.

Interior decoration of the bathhouse, and steam room wall cladding in particular, has great importance. Without doing this, you cannot count on the durability of the structure itself. After all, heat loss, especially in a steam room, will not add to the pleasure of visiting it. Therefore, the presence of thermal insulation of walls is a necessary condition at .

All this fully applies to non-log buildings. But what to do if the bathhouse is a log house, the material of which is an excellent natural heat insulator? Let's try to figure this out together.

This question is asked by many log bathhouse owners. Ideally, there is no point in insulating such a bathhouse and sheathing it with clapboard. After all, wood itself is an irreplaceable natural heat insulator. In addition, it has been proven that a steam room with log walls - steam from the stove-stove is reflected from them without a shock wave, creating a more favorable internal environment.

The useful area of ​​the steam room is also important. Whether we like it or not, covering a room will inevitably entail a reduction in its area. And financial costs have a certain, and often primary, significance.

If, nevertheless, you decide to insulate and sheathe the steam room with clapboard, then it is recommended to take into account the following thermal insulation characteristics walls made of logs depending on its diameter:

• 200 mm or more - no insulation required;
• 150 mm – insulation can be omitted, but warming up the steam room will take considerable time;
• 100 mm – insulation is required.

In any case, the decision is up to you. It all depends on individual preferences - some people like the traditional style of a Russian bath, while others will like a modern design.

Necessary tools and accessories

1. Electric drill with a set of wood drills.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Wood saw.
4. Set of wood rasps.
5. Hammer.
6. Hatchet.
7. Mallet.
8. Furniture stapler with a set of staples.
9. A device for sawing bars at an angle.
10. Level.
11. Roulette.
12. Yardstick.
13. Carpenter's square.
14. A ruler for drawing the outline of a log house.
15. Plumb.
16. Rope.
17. Metal clamps for lining.
18. Pencil.

Selecting materials for cladding

Pine or spruce beams for sheathing		Sections 45 x 120, 40 x 50
Skirting boards and corners for finishing trim		Hardwood
Windproof waterproofing membrane "Tyvek Housewrap"		Protection of thermal insulation from moisture penetration from the outside. On the insulation side it freely allows steam and moisture to pass through, while simultaneously preventing moisture and wind from entering the insulation.
Self-adhesive tape "Isofix"
Waterproof basalt wool “Rockwoll”, mats 100 x 600 x 1200 (thickness x width x length, mm)		Made from natural basalt rocks. Has a high environmental indicator.
Reinforced with glass mesh aluminium foil"Armofol" type B		Designed for temperatures from -60 to +200 °C. High coefficient of thermal reflection and low vapor permeability
		Temperature range: -30 to +150 °C. Has increased strength
Eurolining 14 (12.5) x 96 (thickness x width, mm)		Abashi, alder, black alder, linden, aspen. Divided into classes Extra, A, B, C depending on appearance(presence of knots, texture, etc.)

Covering the walls of the steam room with clapboard

Choosing a cladding method

There are two types - vertical and horizontal. In our example, the lining is positioned vertically. If desired, you can also orient it horizontally. In this case, there is no need to install on top of vertical posts horizontal slats(slats). In this case, the width of the racks must be taken in such a way that the thermal insulation wool is recessed by 20-30 mm relative to their longitudinal end. This will ensure ventilation of the air space between the insulation and the inner surface of the wall sheathing.

It is important to know that when horizontal view it is necessary to sheathe from the bottom up, placing the tenon at the top. This will subsequently prevent water from getting inside the joint grooves when it flows down the walls of the steam room.

Laying the first moisture-proof layer and vertical posts

1. First, we make markings for installing vertical posts, starting from the corners of the steam room with a step of 590 mm between their inner edges. These dimensions will allow you to fit tightly basalt wool 100 mm thick.
2. The decoration of the walls of a bathhouse built from logs has its own characteristics. The fact is that fixing the sheathing slats strictly vertically is not so easy. To achieve this, it is necessary to process the vertical posts from the side where they contact the logs. For this purpose, a special copier is made, which is a thin ruler pointed on one side and holes drilled along it for a pencil. By attaching the stand to log wall, the copier is carried along it and lines are drawn that repeat the profile of the log house. Further actions come down to processing the racks along the drawn lines. It is enough to ensure a tight fit of the rack to the logs in several places with a step of 600 mm, maintaining a strictly vertical level. The length of the contact surface of 20-30 mm is quite sufficient. Don't forget to treat with an antiseptic.
3. We lay the protective membrane from bottom to top. Top film overlaps 20-30 cm on the bottom. We level and fasten the upper edge to the protruding parts of the logs with staples using a stapler. We glue the overlaps self-adhesive tape"Isofix".
4. Trimming protective film under the racks, which we install in the corners according to the previously made markings. Using a level or plumb line, set them strictly vertically. Fastening to logs is done with galvanized nails or screws. To avoid using long screws, drill a 2-3 mm blind hole in the rack larger size screw head diameter.
5. We stretch the rope between the outer posts in two places: below and above. It will serve to base the internal racks.
6. We install all internal racks according to the example in step 4.
7. Align and carefully staple the protective film. Where necessary, additionally glue with self-adhesive Isofix tape. This operation should be performed with particular care. It is important to completely eliminate the possibility of air entering the area of ​​open logs.
8. Note: During the installation of corner posts, it is necessary to simultaneously lay thermal insulation wool in the corners.

What kind of materials are used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wooden panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technical progress, the production of different types of lining has also stepped forward. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on the human respiratory system.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , the moisture content of wooden products is allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during the operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from coniferous and deciduous wood. Best options for the steam room - aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. total area rooms: 6 (ceiling) + 7.5 (first long wall) + 7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m 2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​window and door openings, and then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated per square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed for cladding inner surface baths

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, count the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a product Low quality, which will quickly lose its properties and the lining of the bathhouse will have to be completely or partially changed.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Prices for PVC lining

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check the correct fastening of the slats using a stretched fishing line/cord or laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when you need to do more low ceiling in the bathhouse, metal hangers are used to fasten the lathing.

In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the batten, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. For horizontal arrangement strips of lining, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and on top of them vertical slats.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wooden wall planks, you must leave a gap of 2 cm.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the self-tapping screws, place the board on the sheathing (always with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.