Do-it-yourself clapboard covering of walls and ceilings. Finishing the ceiling with wooden lining - nuances of work, tips on covering. Ceiling profile prices

One of the common ways to finish the ceiling is to cover it with clapboard. Materials used for this include solid wood, MDF and plastic. In any case, the ceiling surface correct installation turns into a perfectly flat surface with a characteristic appearance. The placement of stripes can contribute to the correct visual perception of the room. Any interested owner who is not afraid of work and is not averse to working can make a lining ceiling with their own hands construction tool. Having become familiar with detailed instructions and having purchased everything necessary materials, you can begin to implement your plans.

In the usual sense, in order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, a frame is first formed. Its purpose is to separate the future finishing surface of the ceiling from the uneven and unattractive base, to bring out a single level plane and ensure the strength of the entire structure. It is on the frame that both the lining and the lighting. The lining of the selected type is already sewn on top of the frame. Even when they say that they sew the lining directly onto the wall or ceiling, it seems like without a frame, a sheathing is still formed.

Strips of material (actually “lining”) are fixed across the frame guides. The general direction of the stripes is selected in accordance with the requirements of the room design. Visually, the room will appear longer, precisely in the direction in which the lining is laid.

You can form a frame from. The same ones used to secure drywall. Besides classic version There remains the option of using wooden beams.

What exactly should you choose from these materials? It all depends on the material from which the lining is made and operating conditions. So for wet areas like a bathroom or kitchen would be better suited metal frame and plastic lining for the ceiling. Wooden or MDF lining is allowed in the kitchen, again with a metal frame.

various types of wooden lining

In residential premises, wooden beams in combination with any material you like are perfect. On the positive side wooden frame The process of installing the lining becomes simpler. It is easier to nail small nails to wood, tighten screws and attach clips.

What will you need?

You will need the following set of tools, which should always be kept nearby when covering the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands:

Hammer;
Impact drill or hammer drill, screwdriver;
Construction corner, water level, bubble level or rule;
Tape measure, centimeter;
Hacksaw, metal scissors (for metal profile).

The material is naturally selected from the selected materials. So for a wooden frame it is best to use timber 20X40, 40X40, 50X50 mm. The entire structure will be made up of the selected timber and its derivatives. To fasten the beams and attach them to the ceiling and walls, plastic dowels are used together with nails-screws (8X45) or anchors, and hardened wood screws (4X50, 4X75).

For metal frame the list of purchases will already increase, at least in the number of components:

UD profile for forming the perimeter;
CD profile as the basis of the frame;
U-shaped fastenings and cross fastenings “crab”;
Flea-tapping screws with a drill tip, metal screws with a piercing head.

The instructions below will help you find out how much material you need to purchase, after reading which you will be able to calculate the quantity based on your needs.

To fasten the lining to the ceiling, or rather to the frame, staples of a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer, nails, special clips are used, the latter mainly for plastic lining, also called PVC panels. Nails can only be used in combination with a wooden frame.

Frame installation

Even before starting the main work, the lowest point on the ceiling is selected and a measurement is made from it 6-10 cm down the wall, where the first mark is made. Next, the mark is transferred to all four walls using a water level. In the best case, a laser level is used. As a result, a line will be obtained along the perimeter of the room, along which the installation of the frame will be verified.

Important: If wooden beams and boards are used in construction or renovation, they must also be treated with a fire retardant to protect them from rot, pests and increase fire safety.

Option 1: frame based on wooden beams

The beams must be fixed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to how the lining will be sheathed. The distance between the bars is selected in the range of 40-60 cm for plastic and 60-100 cm for wood. The beams must be mounted so that their lower edge is strictly parallel to the floor and at the same level as all other beams. You can check this using a water level.

So, at the beginning, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room at a distance of approximately 10-15 cm from the wall. Be sure to check the level not only at the edges of the beam, but also in the middle. For every 60 cm it is necessary to attach a beam to the ceiling. Impact screws and dowels or anchors are used for this. If the beam is distant from the ceiling, wooden plates made from the remnants of the same beam are placed.

A rope or fishing line is stretched between the installed beams along their lower edge. Using the line on the wall and the stretched line as a guide, the remaining beams are installed. Once everything is ready, you can start strengthening.

For reliability, you can install jumpers between the main beams. So, from the same timber, pieces are cut with a length equal to the distance between the installed beams and attached to them in the middle of the ceiling. However, it is enough to install jumpers only in those places where an increased load on the frame is implied, that is, places where lamps are installed. At this point the frame is considered ready.

Option 2: frame based on a metal profile

The rules for constructing the frame are the same as for and. Along the perimeter of the walls, according to the drawn line of the suspended ceiling level, a UD profile is attached using dowels. Next, the first two outer CD profiles are attached at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall, also perpendicular to the direction of the lining. Along the length of the profile, it should be secured with U-shaped fastenings to the ceiling, with a frequency of every 40-60 cm. Using a stretched rope or fishing line, the remaining profiles are installed and secured along the ceiling at a distance the same as when using timber. Jumpers in places where reinforcement of the frame is required are mounted using crab crosses.

Before installing the lining, wiring for the lighting system is also laid. Loops or wire leads are left in the right places. After covering with clapboard, they can be pulled out through the prepared holes and.

Cladding

If the lining is made of wood or MDF

The lining made of solid wood and MDF is mounted identically. To do this, strips of material are cut to a length equal to the distance between the walls minus 5 mm. A slightly smaller size is necessary to form a gap, this will protect the ceiling from the consequences thermal expansion. If you are not sure that the walls are perfectly parallel, it is better to cut a strip of lining for a specific installation location.

The installation of the lining on the ceiling begins with the first strip, which is fixed on both sides along the entire length, that is, to each guide. This leaves a gap of 3-5 mm to the wall. Subsequent strips are inserted at a slight angle with a groove into the lock of the previous strip, and are pushed tightly into it. For reliability, you can use a rubber hammer and lightly tap the end of the strip. The second side is nailed or screwed to the frame guides behind the lower edge of the lock. As mentioned above, either self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails are used for this.

Advice: When using self-tapping screws, it is advisable to pre-drill holes in the places where they are installed on the strips, otherwise the material may chip. When using nails, use a hammer to avoid damaging the front part of the lining with a hammer blow.

In the process of assembling the ceiling, it is important to take care in advance of the output of the supply wires in the required places and make the corresponding holes on the lining strips. After the ceiling is completely installed, it will be almost impossible to do this without the risk of damaging the front side.

Continue installing stripes to the opposite end of the room. The last strip is best driven into the lock using small wedges that are driven between the strip and the wall. Most likely, you will have to cut the strip along its entire length, because the whole strip will not fit. MDF lining Just like plastic, it’s easier to cut with a knife. Incisions are made along the entire length on both sides, after which the strip is carefully broken. Strips of solid wood will have to be cut using either a hacksaw or a jigsaw. There is no need to additionally glue ceilings made of wooden lining; securing all the strips to each of the guides will result in a strong and durable structure. Moreover, the glued lining will begin to creak and crack over time.

Video: finishing the ceiling in an apartment wooden clapboard

If the lining is made of plastic

Plastic lining, or PVC panels, are laid in the same way as wooden lining, and with the same gaps on all sides to compensate for thermal expansion of 3-5 mm. However, before installing the first strip, a U-shaped groove should be secured around the perimeter of the new ceiling, in which the extreme ends of all strips will be hidden. Often this groove is an integral part of the baseboard or is a collapsible structure made of L-shaped parts. One of them is fixed before covering with clapboard, and the second is snapped in after. It all depends on which option will be purchased.

Since a single ceiling level is already determined by the frame, when covering with clapboard you just need to carefully ensure that each strip fits tightly to the guides and does not move away at the joints.

Final stage

At the stage of securing the entire lining, the work is not yet over. It is also necessary to secure around the perimeter of the new ceiling or a corner that will close the gap between the lining and the walls. You can secure the plinth using liquid nails, clips or screws. Only after this can you consider that finishing the ceiling with clapboard is completed and enjoy the new look of the room. The lining itself does not require any additional finishing works. Only if the simplest version of the cladding made from untreated profiled boards is used, will it be necessary to open it with varnish. However, it is better to complete this process in advance, even before installing the ceiling.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Ceiling decoration with clapboard is increasingly used in the process of improvement of apartments. The lining ceiling is assembled according to the principle of a designer without the use of glue or mortars, and after fastening the material does not need to be puttied or painted. This means that as a result of little effort, a completely finished surface is obtained. High-quality material, properly selected tools and clear instructions are all you need to create a beautiful and durable ceiling.

What is lining?

To figure out for yourself how to cover a ceiling with clapboard, you need to decide what this facing material is and for what purposes it is used. for cladding ceilings and walls, it has the form of thin planks with a special type of connection, in which a protrusion (tenon) of the next is inserted into the recess (groove) of one element.

Such finishing, with the right choice of material, will be appropriate not only in the kitchen and on the loggia, but also in living rooms. In apartments, lining is often mounted on the ceiling. Due to the variety of types, lining ceilings are suitable for rooms with different conditions operation and aesthetic requirements. For its production the following are used:

Solid wood species.
MDF boards.
Plastic.

The scope of application depends on the material. For example, in rooms with high humidity, it would be most logical to use plastic, since this material is absolutely not afraid of moisture and is highly resistant to dirt and fungus. MDF or treated wood will look great in any apartment and will highlight a kitchen or hallway.

Anyone can make a beautiful ceiling made of lining with their own hands home handyman. He will breathe into the room new life and will add personality to it.

Although covering the ceiling with clapboard does not require much effort, to do it you will need some specific tools:

Hammer and screwdriver or screwdriver.
Wood saw or jigsaw.
Stapler, square and hammer.
Construction and water level or level.
Tape measure and marker.
Metal scissors (in case of installation on a profile frame).

Frame

At this stage, you should decide on the sheathing. It can be done:

from ;
wooden beam.

The choice of frame material depends on functional purpose premises: a metal profile is most suitable for the conditions high humidity, in other cases you can choose the material at your discretion. When using ceiling lining made from wood and its derivatives, the most justified would be to install a wooden frame, which is cheaper than metal and is excellent for attaching cladding.

Solid wood lining installed on the ceiling creates additional load on the frame, which should be strengthened if necessary.

Cladding board

The benefits of durable wooden connection“tenon and groove”, practically devoid of gaps, have proven themselves well in finishing. The boards connected in this way have an attractive texture and, when assembled, form a durable wooden shield. A lining ceiling can be made using material with different types profiles. These include:

Eurolining is a decorative board, rounded at one end and having a recessed groove at the other. This type of profile complies with the European standard.
American - has a special expanding shape, thanks to which, when fastened, it creates an imitation of the overlap of boards, which is widespread in the United States. This type of lining on the ceiling will look very interesting.
Standard lining - used on the ceiling more often than other types. When sheathing, there are practically no recesses between the planks, which are typical for eurolining.
The block house is an imitation of a log, since the profile has a rounded front part. Finishing the ceiling in an apartment with this type of clapboard will make the surface look like a log house.

Installation of a metal frame

When using metal profiles, the sequence of work will be as follows:

The lowest point is marked, from which the lining of the ceiling with clapboard begins. To do this, at least 6 cm is laid down, where the first mark is placed. Then it must be transferred to other sides using a level or level.
A metal frame made of a guide profile (UD) is installed along the laid line and secured with dowels.
It is necessary to install a supporting profile (CD) into the guides, which is fastened at a distance of 10–15 cm from the starting point of the structure.
The supporting profile is attached to the ceiling with U-shaped brackets every 50 cm. If there is a need to increase the rigidity of the frame, then crab joints are installed.

Installation of a wooden frame

When choosing wooden blocks as the basis for the frame, assembly will proceed as follows:

The beams are fixed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to the future installation of the boards, the horizontality of the structure is strictly controlled.

The distance between the beams must be maintained within 40–60 cm for plastic and 60–100 cm for MDF and wood.

At the beginning of work, it is necessary to determine the area on which the lining mounted on the ceiling will be located, and secure two beams to opposite sides room, then carefully align the resulting plane using a level.
The following beams should be attached to the ceiling in increments of 50 cm, if necessary, placing wooden dies under them for exact horizontal alignment.

Depending on the type of ceiling, the beam is fastened using a driven dowel, anchor or screw. If wooden lining is used on the ceiling, the fastening should be as reliable as possible.

After installation and alignment, a thread is pulled between the beams, following which the remaining components of the sheathing are installed.

Reinforcement of such a structure is necessary only in case of increased load on the frame, usually these are places where lamps, decorative elements or multi-level transitions are installed.

Cladding ceilings with clapboard

Products made of wood or MDF have much more weight than plastic, as a result of which clapboard ceiling lining has special installation rules.

The lining intended for the ceiling is pre-cut into pieces of length corresponding to the distance required for installation minus 5 mm. The presence of such a gap will avoid the consequences of possible thermal expansion.
The first strip of facing board is fixed on each guide at a distance of 3 mm from the wall.

To fix the strip on the beam, you can use clamps (fixing staples), wood screws, construction staples fixed with a stapler, and nails.

The next strips are installed at a slight angle, so that the tenon coincides with the lock of the already installed facing board, pushing each new strip as tightly as possible into the groove of the previous one.

During the process of installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between the elements, since their presence can lead to a violation of the integrity of the structure and deformation of the entire panel, which will be clearly noticeable when installing the last strip.

To simplify the installation process, a rubber hammer is used, which will allow for a better fit of all structural elements. The last strip is most conveniently installed using wedges.

In most cases, the cladding board installed at the end will have to be cut along its entire length to fit the dimensions of the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to make cuts on both sides of the MDF panel with a knife, after which it can be carefully broken. In the case of solid wood boards, you will have to use a hacksaw.

For several years now, lining has been used to finish the ceiling surface. Various ways Laying the panels will transform the room and create a unique, original interior. At the same time, it is easy to make a lining ceiling yourself if you select high-quality materials and follow the correct sequence throughout the work.

How to make a ceiling from clapboard with your own hands

Selection of materials and tools

The decorative ceiling consists of a frame base and facing material. To install the frame, a beam made of wood or a metal profile is used. The base is attached to the walls around the perimeter of the room and to the base surface.

Photo of the frame for attaching the lining

If the lining on the ceiling will be installed to a wooden frame, choose timber with a thickness of 20x40, 40x40 or 50x50 mm. To make the frame even, wooden or plastic wedges are used, and the suspensions to the rough ceiling are mounted on anchor bolts, the beams are fixed to them with self-tapping screws. The lining is attached to the staples of a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with press washers or special clips, which are used mainly for installing plastic panels.

If you plan to build a metal frame, you need to purchase:

profiles made of galvanized steel;
pendants;
anchor bolts and screws for metal;
connectors.

In addition to materials, the work will require the following set of tools:

hammer;
perforator;
screwdriver;
water level;
tape measure, marker or pencil;
metal scissors for cutting metal profiles.

For the manufacture of decorative lining, metal, natural wood, plastic, aluminum or MDF are used. Wood and MDF panels will support the interior wooden house, plastic lining is suitable for finishing a bathroom or kitchen, and slatted structures will help create modern interior. Based on the functionality of the room, choose the appropriate type of cladding panels.

To make the ceiling beautiful and stable, you need to properly prepare it. The cladding will cover the base base, but you will still have to remove the old finish from the ceiling.

If there are cracks or other problem areas, they are sealed with a mixture of sand and cement, or filled with special putty. At the final stage of preparation, the ceiling surface is coated with an antifungal primer, which will provide reliable protection from mold.

In private houses, additional insulation of the floors is provided. For this they use different materials, which are glued to the base or placed in the cells of a pre-assembled frame, and covered with cladding panels on top.

Frame installation

Marking

Regardless of what material you plan to build a decorative ceiling from, the structure must be level. To do this, you will need to carry out high-quality markings.

First, the level of the future ceiling is determined. A straight horizontal line is applied to the walls using upholstery cord. The height of the ceiling depends on two factors:

room height;
Is it planned to integrate lighting devices into the design, and what will be their dimensions?

Depending on the height of the lamp, they further retreat downward from the ceiling: for diodes - by 4 cm, for chandeliers or spotlights - by 7 cm or more.

If after some time the lining “goes in waves,” it means that the installation was installed incorrectly. The mounting step of the ceiling profiles depends on what material is used for cladding the lining ceiling: wooden or plastic panels, MDF boards.

Parallel lines are drawn under the profiles on the base surface. The first and last - 30 cm from the wall, the rest - every 60 cm (for plastic) and every 100 cm (for wood or MDF).

If wooden beams are chosen as the basis for the frame, installation is carried out as follows:

First, the wood is covered with a layer of protective impregnation;
the beams are fastened perpendicular to the decorative panels;
if the ceiling is supposed to be additionally insulated, then regardless of the type of cladding, the distance between adjacent ceiling beams is reduced to 60 cm;
two beams are mounted on opposite sides of the room with 30 cm indentations from the walls, the plane is verified with a level;
the remaining beams are fastened along the marked lines. If the thickness of the bars is different, to ensure an even horizontal plane, wooden dies are placed under them;
the timber is fixed to the ceiling using driven dowels, anchors or screws;
then stretch the fishing line and install the remaining frame elements.

To make the base reliable, you can lay cross beams that will increase the rigidity of the structure. Or carry out additional reinforcement at installation sites ceiling lamps. When the frame is ready, electrical wires are connected to the instrument locations.

The metal frame is built according to the same rules as when covering the ceiling with plasterboard:

a guide profile is attached to the horizontal line along the perimeter with dowels and screws;
on opposite sides, 30 cm from the walls, ceiling profiles are fixed to the ceiling using adjustable U-shaped hangers. The suspension mounting step is 60 cm;
A nylon thread is stretched under the frame, along which the remaining elements are mounted. If there are differences, the height is adjusted with suspensions;
the frame is additionally reinforced with jumpers mounted using crab-type crosses;
bring the cable under the lamps.

Cladding

Ceiling lining made of solid wood or MDF is attached to the frame in the same way:

First, the strip of lining is cut to the required length so that there is 5 mm of free space from the panel to each wall. Then, when the material expands under the influence of unfavorable factors, the ceiling does not deform. If the walls are uneven, it is better to cut the panels as you lay the frame;
the first strip along the length is attached to the guide profile, leaving a gap of 3-5 mm on the side. The next panel is inserted with a groove at a slight angle into the lock of the previous one, and pushed into it. To press the paneling tightly, tap the end of the part with a hammer with a rubberized tip. The other side of the plank is screwed to the profile at the bottom of the lock using self-tapping screws (if the frame is made of a metal profile) or nailed (for a base made of wooden beams);
when using self-tapping screws, even before installing the lining, holes for fasteners are pre-drilled on the locking part of the strip. If you do this under the ceiling, the cladding may break off. When using nails, additionally use a hammer so as not to damage the front side of the sheathing material;
As the cladding progresses, the cable is brought out under the devices, drilling holes in the panels. Thus, they advance to the opposite wall. The last strip is driven into the lock using small wedges driven between the panel and the wall surface.

Often the end strip has to be cut to width. An incision is made on MDF panels or plastic lining along the entire length on both sides, then the part is carefully broken. To cut solid wood paneling, use a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.

Plastic lining is installed in the same way as solid wood, leaving gaps from the wall of 3-5 mm. But first, a U-shaped groove is attached around the perimeter, which will hide the ends of the strips of material.

This groove either forms part of the plinth, or is represented by a collapsible structure made of parts in the shape of the letter “L”. The first part is fixed after installing the frame, and the second when the ceiling is completely covered with plastic.

Since the evenness of the structure has already been established at the installation stage, during cladding you should try to push the panels into the groove as tightly as possible to prevent the formation of gaps.

How to attach false beams to a clapboard ceiling

Photo of a lining ceiling with beams

The use of false beams in the interior is a common type of finishing that is used by designers to emphasize different styles and directions. Beams are made from solid wood, plastic, polyurethane, etc. Selecting suitable product, reliability must be taken into account load-bearing structure, to which the elements will be attached. Thus, products made from natural wood have heavy weight, therefore, in the places where the beams are attached, the frame will have to be additionally strengthened.

It is better to choose polyurethane beams, hollow inside, painted to resemble natural wood. They weigh lighter, and will look no worse than natural wood. At the same time, they go well with the lining ceiling.

In general, attaching beams is not difficult. The main thing is to maintain consistency in your work:

the side and bottom elements must fit tightly together. To do this, use a plane, which is used to adjust the end parts of the beams. The cut areas are rubbed with fine-grained sandpaper;
special wedges for beams are made of wood. In this case, the wedge must exactly repeat the shape of the beam cavity (trapezoid);
during marking, additional control lines are drawn on the side of the beam to provide guidance on the wedges;
wedges are installed in the places where the beams are supposed to be located, screwed onto dowels and screws in increments of 1 m;
in places where the beams are attached to the walls, a little glue is applied to the surface of the base. This will not only provide additional reliability, but also a tight fit of the product, which will prevent the formation of cracks;
the false beam is put on a wedge, screwed with self-tapping screws, the heads of the screws are covered with decorative overlays or staples;
if the beam is short, it is joined to the next one, the joint is also masked with a decorative element.

If desired, you can install original lighting in the beams. To do this, the wiring of the electrical cable is done in the cavity of the beam, using a protective shell, having previously made holes in the cavity of the wedges-beams. For polyurethane products, the power of the devices is chosen to be no more than 50 W.

Final stage

Do-it-yourself installation of lining on the ceiling does not end with just the cladding. Additionally, the gaps between the ceiling surface and the walls are decorated with a plinth around the perimeter, which is attached to liquid nails, clips or self-tapping screws if the fillet is made of wood.

When it is necessary to give the decorative ceiling a different shade, the lining is covered with varnish or stain of the desired color. But it is better to do this before attaching the cladding to the frame base.

Lining in modern style interior design is in demand, as the trend towards natural (wood, MDF) and economical (plastic) materials is gaining momentum.

To make wooden lining, different wood species are used:

pine. A distinctive feature is soft brown shades;
spruce is inexpensive. But at the final stage it is better to paint the sheathed ceilings with varnish to express the surface structure;
larch – durable, beautiful material, resistant to moisture.

The white color of the surfaces is combined with different directions in the interior. For painting, choose oil or acrylic compositions.

Combinations of diagonal stripes of eurolining will make the room elegant. Others will add variety decorative elements. For example, moldings or beams with lighting.

Even a plastic lining with a suitable texture and pattern will look unusual and original. By combining the shades of the panels, you can divide the space into zones.

Designers have come up with many techniques with which a room will acquire an individual character:

narrow and long strips of lining will visually expand the spatial boundaries of the room;
strict lines will suit any style;
if you lay the panels in the form of a lattice, you will be able to reproduce an imitation of beams;
Plastic lining looks great when panels of different widths are used to cover the ceiling;
a white shade of the ceiling in tandem with a golden or silver color will add luxury to the room;
it will look good in the direction of minimalism or hi-tech slatted ceiling. The surface where clapboard cladding is combined with painting looks no less original.

Ceilings are finished with clapboard not only in country houses, but also city apartments. The main condition is that to obtain a unified interior, you need to maintain one style and choose materials that will be combined with each other.

Video on how to install lining on the ceiling, drawing squares

What and how to cover the ceiling so that it is not only beautiful, but also practical, and, if possible, environmentally friendly, interests many. From the variety of finishes, experts highlight clapboard cladding, a material that is one of the most common methods of finishing the ceiling.

Peculiarities

Interesting origin of the name building material. Previously, transport cars were lined with wooden slats, which were then used in interior decoration. This is how the generalized name for the wooden material came about.

Its main feature is naturalness. A room in which the ceiling is decorated with wooden paneling breathes. A natural microclimate is formed in it due to the property of wood that absorbs moisture when there is an excess of it and releases when there is a shortage.

Distinctive features are:

naturalness and naturalness;
durability and reliability in use;
heat and sound insulation;
security;
resistance to decay processes;
ease of care;
ease of installation;
originality of appearance;
complete safety for health;
a great opportunity to hide communications.

Wooden lining is the ancestor of such products as metal and plastic lining. A feature of all types is its shape and installation. A classic of the genre, wooden lining is suitable for finishing various surfaces, including the ceiling. The existing disadvantage - poor moisture and heat resistance - is easily eliminated today. The necessary impregnations will easily cope with this problem.

The plastic version of the ceiling lining is primarily budget-friendly. Produced using seamless technology, it is attractive and elegant. However, it has a number of serious disadvantages. The main one is its fragility. Over time, it loses its snowy whiteness, fades and turns yellow. Subject to mechanical stress and temperature reactions.

Lining, made from thin sheet steel and aluminum, is more often used in finishing the facade of a house, but it can be used in utility and courtyard buildings. Aluminum product is almost forever, which cannot be said about the analogue. Inexpensive material– short-lived. Minor damage to the protective layer leads to an irreversible process - damage to thin metal.

Due to the many types, lining is suitable for finishing ceilings in rooms with different operating requirements and aesthetic requests.

How to choose material?

Manufacturers of this material a lot, but the quality of the products sometimes leaves the best. To avoid making a mistake in your purchase, you should carefully inspect it during purchase. You should pay attention to every little detail.

Packaging – you should be wary if the lining is sold packed in film. This fact indicates the low quality of the product, since the seller is not allowed to tear the film and pull out the panel for inspection. Also panels covered with film are exposed to humidity resulting from lack of ventilation. This packaging negatively affects the quality of even first-class materials.

If possible, carefully check the plate itself. Slight bending jeopardizes the result of the work performed. It's better to refuse such a product. Firstly, there will be difficulties during installation. Secondly, even after installing it, there is no guarantee that it will last long.

If visual inspection is clear, inspect the surface. Transverse waves may appear on the board. The most thorough inspection is necessary for connecting structures (grooves and ridges). Under no circumstances should they contain chips or cracks.

For inspection, it is advisable to have a clip that can detect waves. If any are found, the clamper will not be able to be installed as needed. Make sure that assembly is easy when trying to connect individual panels.

Be sure to use a device, if available in the store, to measure the moisture content of the lining. Take the time to examine your purchase - this will guarantee the final result.

When choosing a finishing material, you need to have an idea of its specifications. Wooden lining is divided into four quality categories. They have significant differences. Cannot select quality material without paying attention to them.

Class "A" products completely suitable for ceiling cladding. Errors are possible here, such as resin stains (no more than two), not through cracks(one – two), one knot is allowed.
Class "B"- relatively good material. Its use in residential premises is undesirable due to its aesthetic characteristics. This is an increased number of blind cracks, knots and resin stains.
Class "C" products has low quality. It is used for cladding only outbuildings. In this group, the criteria are completely different - falling knots, through cracks, resin pockets. However, this material is not a complete defect.
“Extra” class products characterized by the complete absence of any defects. This perfect option for finishing ceilings.

This classification is a guiding star when choosing wooden lining. The type of wood affects performance characteristics manufactured product.

Design

A white ceiling looks unusual and original in combination with various materials. Lining on the ceiling in modern design popular and in demand, as the trend towards economical materials contributes to the creation of a unique style. And lining is just such a product, characterized by a natural texture, adequate cost and ease of installation.

To create it, various tree species are used:

The uniqueness of pine products in soft brown shades attracts customers at an affordable price.
Clapboard made of spruce, interesting budget material. The final stage is painting the surface, since the structure of the wood is not very pronounced.
The main advantages of larch products are durability, rich shade and expressiveness of the wood texture. This breed tolerates humidity well.
Linden, plastic in origin, has attractive golden hues.

Coniferous types of lining are durable, practical, and resistant to moisture. Undesirable in rooms with constant high temperature. Since the released tarry substances can lead to fire. Deciduous species are processed and tinted.

White color, which is the basis of any style, combines perfectly with other colors and can visually expand the space. Preference is given to oil and acrylic paints. By treating the surface with a solution that protects against moisture and insects, you can extend its shelf life.

Eurolining creates an elegant picture with the help of various combinations of diagonal stripes.

Individual elements created on the ceiling - around a chandelier, for example, allow you to add variety to the interior of a room. An interesting note in the interior will be the ceiling made of plastic lining, varying in texture and pattern. Using panels of contrasting colors, it is possible to zone the room.

Design finds using this material will allow the owner to give a unique and individual character to his home.

narrow and long panels expand the space;
designs made from lines blend harmoniously into any style;
a lattice structure with cross-positioned slats creates the image of a ceiling made of beams;
the lining with plastic plates of different widths looks great;

by laying MDF panels in different directions, they achieve an excellent imitation of natural wood;
luxury in decoration is achieved by using White color, diluted with gold or silver tone;
fashionable interiors prefer slatted style;
The combination of wooden and painted ceilings looks impressive.

There is an opinion about the suitability of such ceilings only on balconies or in country houses. It is wrong.

In the living room it is appropriate to use this material in the design of the ceiling. Lacquered planks can transform the surface. It is possible to construct an image beam floors how in alpine chalets or hunting lodges. This effect can be achieved by contrasting colors of finishing elements.

Remember: to get a cohesive look, you need to decorate the entire interior in the same style.. Painted lining will create a cozy atmosphere for relaxation in the popular Provence style, so necessary in the bedroom. It will acquire a barely noticeable element of antiquity and unsurpassed charm in the combination of forged furniture and varnished covering parts.

A more careful selection of such a product will avoid negative influence for people suffering from allergic reactions to the released ether compounds. The ideal room with a clapboard ceiling would be the kitchen..

Design in the above style would also be an excellent option. Here it is possible to use beige, white, and blue tones for coloring the panels. The interior design will be beautiful in the intended way. A room with stylish appliances and steel surfaces of household items will look advantageous.

Ceiling natural type would be appropriate in a kitchen decorated with natural stone or its imitation. The use of panels painted in a color that matches other objects is suitable for decorating a corridor. Don't overlook additional details and general form interior

The nursery and office are designed in a similar way. In a nursery, a careful and scrupulous approach to such coverage is also needed. The only room in the house where it is not recommended to install a lining ceiling may be the bathroom. Excessive moisture may cause the coating to deteriorate.

Calculation

Calculating the required amount of this material for finishing the ceiling is not difficult, but painstaking. And the calculation must be done carefully so that final result did not bring disappointment in the form of additional costs (time, money, nerves). It is advisable to purchase the product with some reserve. You need to start with a clearly developed plan for the direction of fastening the elements. Record all this on the drawing.

With the help of these records it is easier to calculate the product consumed. The ceiling area is calculated simply: the width is multiplied by the length (as an example - ab - 3x4 = 12). For an accurate calculation, you need to know the dimensions of the selected cladding material. This data must be indicated on the packaging of the material and comply with GOSTs. By dividing the area of the ceiling by the area of one board, you will know how many panels you will need.

Programs will come to the rescue online calculators. All you need is knowledge of the basic parameters of the panel - width, length, height and thickness. Based on practice, it has been noted that the results of two similar measurements do not have significant differences. The accuracy of measurements will save the budget allocated for repairs and protect against unnecessary trimmings. However, do not forget about the rule of rounding up the fractional value and adding to it 15% of the strategic material reserve.

You can immediately calculate the cost of the material. When purchasing, you need to know the parameters of the lining and the required quantity. And don’t forget about the factors that influence the cost: the price depends on the size of the lining, with accurate measurement of which it will be possible to purchase the necessary cash. Now it’s time to safely begin installation work.

Installation

To carry out any work, you need to carefully prepare. You don’t need any special skills, if you have the desire. But you need to assemble a tool, without which nothing will definitely work. You will need several types of building levels. Without a tape measure you will have to work, as they say, by eye, which is absolutely unacceptable. You need a hammer, a hacksaw, a jigsaw and a screwdriver.

If the sheathing is made of a metal profile, it is better to use scissors. When installing the casing, use a drill with an impact mechanism or a hammer drill concrete ceiling. The minimum diameter of the drill is at least 6-7 mm. In terms of time, the cladding will take a little time if the correct calculations and clear markings are made. There are two types of caracas for mounting panels - wooden and metal. The first option is considered more optimal. It is cheaper and easier to work with.

Wooden sheathing will require:

timber 4x4 cm corresponding to the ceiling area;
brackets;
wooden or plastic wedges;
self-tapping screws

For a metal frame you need:

metallic profile;
suspension;
fasteners;
self-tapping screws;
anchors.

If necessary, the lining should be dried before installation. Clean the ceiling itself from dirt, dust and old plaster. Find key marking points using a level. The first will be the lowest point of the ceiling, which is transferred to all walls and connected along the perimeter by one line. These are guidelines for the sheathing bars.

A small nuance: in places where the guides do not adhere to the ceiling, use wedges.

Nowadays, lining is used for interior and exterior work. Of particular interest is the application of this finishing material for creating interior design country houses and city apartments. Let's find out how to cover a ceiling with clapboard so that the end result brings joy and satisfaction to the property owner.

Types of lining

Among the numerous materials used for its manufacture, the following are of interest:

natural wood;
plastic

Plastic samples are made in the form of long and narrow slats, supplemented with special docking grooves, this is convenient for fastening. Among the positive characteristics of plastic material, we highlight:

Ease of fastening during the finishing process (convenience of working with the material).
Ceiling lining hides all defects on the surface of the ceiling.
No corrosion or rotting.
Aesthetic appearance.

This material guarantees additional sound insulation, high-quality insulation, ideal for exterior and interior decoration.

But a ceiling made of wooden lining requires special care and special treatment. Installation of such a covering will be much more expensive than its plastic counterpart. Wood has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, so if properly processed, the ceiling will harmoniously fit into the overall interior of the room. The finished wooden covering will be environmentally friendly; such a ceiling can also be made in children's rooms.

Algorithm of actions

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the tools, without which you cannot make a lining ceiling with your own hands. When installing this material you will need:

wood hacksaw;
electric drill;
level;
rule;
rubber hammer;
construction angle;
roulette

Attention! The material for covering the ceiling surface is taken with a margin of 15-20 percent. Calculation of the amount of material required to cover the surface must be performed taking into account:

the length of the area to be closed, the width of the slats. If the length is greater than the size of the slats, you will have to “add” the ceiling along the entire surface, otherwise the external impression will be spoiled.
Keep in mind that the slats are joined together, that is, 2-3 cm are lost during installation.
You will most likely have to cut the outermost rail with an electric jigsaw to fit it into the groove. It is better to leave 2-3 wooden planks, so that if one of them is damaged, you can cut a new strip.

The algorithm for attaching the lining to the ceiling involves preparing a wooden frame made of timber, the thickness of which will be at least 20 mm. The cross-section option is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installation of ceiling covering

Work begins with attaching a wooden frame, which will become the basis of the entire wooden structure. It is on this that the ceiling is then lined with clapboard. First you need to calculate exactly where the first typesetting strip should be located. If the wall is uneven, the rail is not attached tightly, but with a small margin (5-6 mm), then it can be hidden under ceiling plinth. To cover the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands, you need to adjust the width of the last strip and also leave a 5-6 mm gap.

Nuances of frame installation

The wooden frame is optimally made from timber 40 by 40, 20 by 40, or 50 by 50 mm. Fastening the beams, as well as their fixation to the ceiling, walls, is carried out with plastic dowels and nails - screws (size 8 by 45 mm), or anchors and hardened screws (4 by 75 mm, for wood). When choosing a metal frame you will additionally need:

UD profile for forming the perimeter;
U-shaped fastening options, as well as cross “crab” fasteners;
screws for metal, “fleas” with tips in the form of a drill;
CD profile for frame

The amount of material required for the work is calculated after a detailed study of the instructions. To nail the lining to the ceiling, you will need construction stapler, nails, self-tapping screws with press washers.

When creating a wooden frame, pay attention to the following points:

When adjusting the slats, leave a 4-5 mm gap on both sides along the entire length to prevent deformation of the material during expansion.
Do not try to immediately cut wooden slats across the entire ceiling surface. The length adjustment is individual, and therefore each new workpiece must be cut immediately before fastening. This will save materials, but you will have to spend more time on fitting.
There is no need to fix the workpiece with nails; just insert it into the lock of the previous plank.

If there are any difficulties with insertion into the lock (grooves), you will need a rubber hammer. With its help, you can tamp down the attachment point and adjust the rail. Next, the workpieces are fastened with self-tapping screws on all frame guides; it is better to fasten them in the area of the lock edge.

Base mounting options

Before you begin arranging the ceiling, you need to find the lowest possible area on the ceiling surface. From it they retreat down the wall approximately 6-10 cm, obtaining the initial mark. In the same way, place marks on all four walls, armed with a water (or laser) level. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the entire room, which will correspond to the location of the base.

Advice! If you choose only wooden blocks or boards for the base, be sure to pre-coat them with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting and increase fire safety.

1 way. Creating a frame on wooden blocks. The bars are attached perpendicular to the direction of installation of the lining. There should be a distance of at least 60-100 cm between the bars. Installation is carried out so that the location of the lowest edge is strictly parallel to the floor. You will need a level to check. First, the bars are attached at opposite ends of the room, retreating from the ceiling surface by 10-15 cm. Then, after 60 cm, the bars need to be attached along the entire perimeter of the room, using anchors, dowels, or impact screws. If the block moves away from the ceiling surface, dies made from bars are placed inside. The fishing line is pulled between the beams and a reference point is obtained for installing the remaining beams. To increase the strength of the frame, jumpers are made.

Method 2. Creating a base for lining from a metal profile. The algorithm of actions is similar to covering the ceiling surface with plasterboard. First, a line is drawn throughout the room (along all four walls) that will correspond suspended ceiling. Next, the UD profile is fixed with dowels. Then the last two metal CD profiles are attached, and the distance to the wall is taken to be 10-15 cm, and the direction of attachment is at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining of the lining.

The profile along its entire length is attached to the surface with special fasteners, the fixation frequency is 40-60 cm. A rope is pulled, but the rest of the profiles are not installed, they are fixed. If necessary, to strengthen the base, crosses are installed using “crabs”. Before fixing the lining, electrical wiring for mounting pendant lamps is attached, specially leaving space for outlets electric wire. As soon as the ceiling is sheathed, the wire can be brought out through the holes left, and the lamps are attached to it.

Fastening the lining

Let's find out how to attach the lining to the ceiling. Finishing Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling involves fastening the strips perpendicular to the guides of the finished frame. The selection of directions is carried out taking into account the design features of the room. If the plans include visual extension space, the slats are fastened along their length. When decorating the ceiling surface in a wide room, transverse fastening of the lining is allowed; the room will appear smaller. Even when stripping the lining directly onto the surface, lathing is required. A base made of specialized metal profiles designed for fixing plasterboard sheets significantly reduces total weight ceiling structure. For kitchens and hallways, it is advisable to use a metal base for the lining.

Let's talk about how to install lining on the ceiling with your own hands. As soon as the frame is ready, the MDF blank is cut in strips along the entire length, corresponding to the length between the opposite walls minus the gap size - 5 cm. To maintain the parallelism of the slats, it is better to install each board separately, checking the location with a level.

Do-it-yourself video covering the ceiling with clapboard demonstrates the procedure. The first rail is fixed along its length, then attached alternately to the base guides. The distance from the first rail to the wall is assumed to be 3-5 mm. The rest of the workpieces must first be placed at an acute angle with a groove into the fixed strip, then pushed tightly until the “lock” snaps into place. To ensure high-quality fixation, gently tap the end of the inserted strip with a rubber mallet. The second side of the lining is screwed by the lower edge of the lock to the guides of the frame itself, using nails or self-tapping screws with press washers.

Before attaching the screws, it is better to drill small holes on the strips, in this case the board will not chip. For more information on how to attach the lining to the ceiling, you can watch the video. In order to get patterns from lining on the ceiling, you can use materials from different wood. The end board is inserted into the lock using small wooden wedges; they need to be driven between the base of the wall, the wall and the lath. The remaining gap will then be hidden under the decorative baseboard. To understand all the nuances of how to line a ceiling with clapboard, you can watch a video offered by professionals.